I’ve installed hundreds of feet of led strip lights and can tell you that when you install it in the inner lip of the cabinet facing the back splash you get a better lighting, plus you don’t need jumpers for the corners (and no reflection off the granite tops)
@dandacosta8925 how do you install it "facing the backsplash"? Is it angled? Or is it facing down to the counter installed on the cabinet lip nearest the wall?
You use the lip of the cabinet (can’t be done with European style cabinets that have no lip) face the backsplash with no angle (tape is vertical to counter)
Bro I installed RGB tape light custom in my Moms apartment for her birthday. It took me half the day and when I turned it on nothing worked at all and I was right about to pull my hair out until I found the polarity, and cut lines vs solder lines. I was a easy 20 min fix in the end. But I am so glad to see other people making that same mistake, it makes me realize I am not the only idiot out there. Thanks
I’ve been licensed for four years now, did mostly new construction high rise resi, commercial and industrial. Just starting my own company and although resi is not that complex, it is a whole new ball game for me. The imposter syndrome/internal inadequacy narrative is real sometimes lol. I greatly appreciate your humble and knowledgeable approach. Takes a real man to post mistakes!
Great tutorial. A couple of things to add: Firstly, the self-adhesive backing can be quite unreliable when gravity is acting directly on the strip, especially if you are sticking the lights to bare wood. I like to add some support for longer runs to stop the strip coming unstuck and sagging. I do this with small nails, but you have to know exactly where to place the nails to avoid damaging the lights. It would be easier to use some sort of wire staple. Secondly, try paining the underside of the cabinets white. This makes a *huge* difference to the amount and quality of the light. Most of the light is directed straight down, but some of it bounces back up off the work surface and then bounces off the bottom of the cabinets. Painting the bottoms of the cabinets white doesn't really make the light brighter, but it really improves the overall quality and color of the illumination.
You definitely should put these strips in extrusion channels with diffusers. Really looks DIY when I see LED strips mounted directly on any surface without extrusions and diffusers. First, the extrusions dissipate heat, and they ensure the strips will never start sagging because the adhesive gives up. Second, the diffusers provide even illumination. Butt splices are fine and well, but they are also kinda crappy looking. Heat shrink is relatively cheap and can make sure he install looks completed by someone who cares. Also, if you work with the proper manufacturer, they can make your strips to length for you and put them in extrusions ahead of time. That way, when you get to the job site,just mount the extrusions where they are specified for, then splice the field wiring in back to your driver. Turn everything on and you’re done. Last tip. Always put linear lighting on a dimmer. Lighting should be dynamic not simply on or off.
Older fellow sparky here and I love your content. Just a suggestion that works for me. Instead of 18-2 start running 18-3. If something goes wonky with one of the wires, you have a back up.
This is something that is done commercially by some of the smarter companies that hire out. I use the term smarter loosely as I feel if your any good at your job, you shouldn’t have to run backups. Some jobs spec it out (like Casey gas stations), and that’s just part of the game. To be fair, low volt wire does tend to snag on its self easily and is just annoying to run. We are entering a world where low volt switching and controls are a thing and that’s just life.
Alright, I followed these instructions to a T when doing my kitchen remodel. Have had no problems with my under cabinet lighting, but was looking for an above the sink light and decided to do this there as well since it was low profile. Have one driver for ucl and one for above sink. The above sink one started blinking about 3 months ago. Going to check the connections but was thinking that above the sink strip is only like 2.5 feet, is the driver making it heat up because when I took off the extrusion channel cover the strip was pretty warm, mildly hot. Only difference in wiring is that ucl is set up just like you did in the video. Above sink went directly from switch to driver, then same wire used in video to strip. ALSO, just noticed that on the box is a sticker that says Use Only With Magnetic Dimmer Switch on it. PN 40L 12DC-AR
I was surprised you didn’t place these in a rail with a defuser. 1) being a kitchen, its only a matter of time until there is a boiling kettle of water directly below these strips. 2) not being diffused might be fine 1.5 feet below on the counter surface, but 6 inches below you will visually see the result of undiffused light on put lids, appliances, knife faces, hand and arms, ect. 3) your work is half a day, the home owner lives with this for years to a decade in the future, There is nothing visually appealing about a naked exposed LED strip.
Agreed.. we use gm lighting tape light.. comes in 16’ reels, aluminum channels sold separately 3 different styles- standard, 45degree, and slim with a lip for route in situations.. channels really make it look professional and don’t really add too much time on install to have a much cleaner look. We also use a “stick on” plastic wire mold to clean up and secure the wire on the underside of cabinet. On another note, we also use 12/2 wire even for lt low voltage dc from driver to tape light lead- I realize it’s low wattage low voltage but consider the in rush current from the leds when it first is turned on
I feel like I miss a step. I wish you show us how you fish those 16 wire down the wall to the receptacle because I was wondering if you had any issues with with stud being somewhere in the wall
Anyone that is looking to do a project like this do some research of your own. The led count and length of your conductors need to be accounted for before sizing the driver. If you have long runs of lights or cabling from the driver a 24v led system will work better for you. If the driver is under sized most will self protect and turn off. If the driver is over sized it won't dim correctly with a dimmer. (When using a driver that allows dimming) There are websites with calculators if you are uncomfortable using Ohm's Law. Also don't run wires between the outlet cover plate and the drywall. It's not very professional way of getting wires to the driver.
@@bennelly4308 what voltage? It makes a difference. Also how far from the driver will the strip be and what gage wire? If the driver isn't far away from the strip 20-25 watt drivers will work. If you have a long distance from the driver to the strip the wires can add to the load creating a need for a larger driver. But since your strip is around 18 total watts it would be hard to believe you need larger driver than 25 watts.
Hi frome Greece I am electrician too we also make the same thing little different but if you want ican aend you photoa with led under the sink and when you open the sheet it opens very interesting to see how things are in USA keep up the good work
Heat shrink might actually be a good idea as many homeowners use counter top appliances that produce steam or moisture, such as, Sous vede, crockpots, steamers, pressure cookers, etc.
When I was self-employed, I did that with the totes. I'd label them for the client they were set up for and had cheat sheets for inventory use that listed everything in the box then the tech could check off what was used and for which location. That way I always had the extra rj45 crimps, plenum zip ties, drywall anchors, shims, whatever "little thing" that I might need. Even those little almond and white screws used for outlet covers. We use them for network jack wall covers and occasionally they get dropped.
We should always install LED tapes within an extrusion. Longer life span, increased visual comfort, less dots on the counter. Recommending direct installation is really "contractor style" and not good for the end users. I wouldn't recommend at all.
You're absolutely right. The LED channels have a diffuser quality and help soften and distribute the light evenly. Personally, I would spend the few extra dollars for prefab units that can purchased in various lengths and voltages. It would look a ton more custom and not look like an "afterthought". The mounting position should be farther back on the bottom of the wall cabinets and not on the front cabinet frame. This job looks so half-a$$ done, especially coming from a master electrician who owns the company. I'm not an electrician and installed undercabinet lights in my new kitchen...the results were so much more professional. Total cost was $120 for the 12 light kit.
Did you steel the disposal switch for your under cabinet lights? I’m wiring our new house and don’t want to use a wall switch for our UC lights. Seems easy enough to just hide a small switch under the cabinet.
Worked at a large candy plant that made over a hundred different pieces of delicious candy. Gained 50 pounds during my ten years there. Me and another second shift would do electrical side work then first thing we did after punching in was grazing. Yep walked around and filled up on chocolate coated pieces & fresh roasted salted cashews. Would send a helper out to buy ice cream and make our own Sundaes with either hot chocolate or butter sotch syrup along with cherries.
I'm unclear as to whether you're installing the strip vertically on the back of the front lip of the cabinets (facing the wall) or horizontally (facing down). If the former, how do you get past the "fence" between (frame style) cabinets?
great video. talked to hid and they asked if it was going to be on a dimmer. since it will be, they suggested the same strip but with 600 leds instead of 300. now i am confused?
What wire choice do you choose to do these runs. I run 18 gauge, but have thought about running smaller gauge. The undercab light runs i've come across are 24v which seems to be the more popular. In these applications, its been a littler harder to find information on how small I can go. I've even looked into cat5 cable, or telephone wire to run these lights.
Curious why the bottom outlet has ground hole up an the one above doesn’t? Also, did you use an ohm meter to see if there was a short or was it intuition ? Nice job - next time just run a flexible low voltage conduit between points for greater flexibility. Im jealous- I’m not as bendable at my age Joel.
@@Tom-wj4tr you can make your jacked up comments all you want but anyone with any sort of skill and knows code that the colors don’t freaking matter. It’s just trade practice. There is nothing in the code that says what color wire you have to use outside of your grounds. And there is damn near zero forced code on low volt. Yes, we do things out of respect for other companies, but it’s not required. Twin City electrician here.
Loving your channel. you are so detailed and meticulous. I wonder why the receptacle is upside down. (ground on the top 2:33) oversight or planned for the driver plug?
That’s actually the way outlets are intended to be installed. (Customers will be mad the face is upside down and tons of appliances with wall wart transformers will look upside down) BUT, the reason is that the ground pin is the last to leave the outlet when you pull the plug and having it on top will protect the connection for anything falling into the pins if the plug is slightly pulled out with a gap. Which brings us to this particular installation under a sink with the risk of water or other objects falling and coming in contact with the plug. The ground pin will be exposed and protect anything from bridging the gap between neutral and hot. These outlets are the way all outlets are “supposed” to be installed. And if you look at your NEMA 14-30R or 14-50R outlets installed by an electrician (stove, dryer, EV and RV) they will most likely be installed correctly with the grounding pin on top.
Great idea! Having seen that the voltage was correct into the driver, we knew the problem had to be the wire, but a double-check would have confirmed it wasn't the lights themselves that were the problem
Hera.......I had on for 24/7 .....15 years....when I redid my kitchen....finally replacing them they had no failures,with 11 pucks type in the cabinets. They stayed same color and output. They are finally getting dull. Way past the 70% rating for led...and good color at around 3,000k
Never trust self-adhesive LEDs... for that matter, self-adhesive ANYTHING. The adhesive will fail. Would you secure wires or piping to a wall with electrical tape?
Remember all plate screws should be 12 - 6. Nice and straight. Also, Hubble / Bryant gfci that you so love are NOT Better than Leviton. So buy the Leviton and save the customer $$$
Did you seriously just run low voltage wire into wall beside the faceplate under the sink? What happened to preaching professional workmanship? You also said in about video about that $7K load center you were gonna pull Ethernet in the same conduit as high voltage, open that code book and read it instead of trying to make money on RUclips
What I do when installing led’s first of all I always install them on back of cabinet with a diffuser cover on a railing that clips on small railing co clips that you cut to size and that with take the shine out, just light, second, I eliminate all that butting and connectors and all that extra wire in between, I just solder it on straight and a small of heat shrink tube on the ends and done, cleaner and professional look, and yes polarity does matter on led’s.
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
I’ve installed hundreds of feet of led strip lights and can tell you that when you install it in the inner lip of the cabinet facing the back splash you get a better lighting, plus you don’t need jumpers for the corners (and no reflection off the granite tops)
I've installed 0 feet and all that was immediately obvious to me... do I get a cookie now?
@dandacosta8925 how do you install it "facing the backsplash"? Is it angled? Or is it facing down to the counter installed on the cabinet lip nearest the wall?
You use the lip of the cabinet (can’t be done with European style cabinets that have no lip) face the backsplash with no angle (tape is vertical to counter)
Why was this video uploaded? It was not finished. This video should have been shorter.
@dandacosta8925 Will there be a reflection off of a shiny backsplash, you think?
Bro I installed RGB tape light custom in my Moms apartment for her birthday. It took me half the day and when I turned it on nothing worked at all and I was right about to pull my hair out until I found the polarity, and cut lines vs solder lines. I was a easy 20 min fix in the end. But I am so glad to see other people making that same mistake, it makes me realize I am not the only idiot out there. Thanks
I’ve been licensed for four years now, did mostly new construction high rise resi, commercial and industrial. Just starting my own company and although resi is not that complex, it is a whole new ball game for me. The imposter syndrome/internal inadequacy narrative is real sometimes lol. I greatly appreciate your humble and knowledgeable approach. Takes a real man to post mistakes!
Great tutorial. A couple of things to add: Firstly, the self-adhesive backing can be quite unreliable when gravity is acting directly on the strip, especially if you are sticking the lights to bare wood. I like to add some support for longer runs to stop the strip coming unstuck and sagging. I do this with small nails, but you have to know exactly where to place the nails to avoid damaging the lights. It would be easier to use some sort of wire staple.
Secondly, try paining the underside of the cabinets white. This makes a *huge* difference to the amount and quality of the light. Most of the light is directed straight down, but some of it bounces back up off the work surface and then bounces off the bottom of the cabinets. Painting the bottoms of the cabinets white doesn't really make the light brighter, but it really improves the overall quality and color of the illumination.
You definitely should put these strips in extrusion channels with diffusers. Really looks DIY when I see LED strips mounted directly on any surface without extrusions and diffusers. First, the extrusions dissipate heat, and they ensure the strips will never start sagging because the adhesive gives up. Second, the diffusers provide even illumination. Butt splices are fine and well, but they are also kinda crappy looking. Heat shrink is relatively cheap and can make sure he install looks completed by someone who cares.
Also, if you work with the proper manufacturer, they can make your strips to length for you and put them in extrusions ahead of time. That way, when you get to the job site,just mount the extrusions where they are specified for, then splice the field wiring in back to your driver. Turn everything on and you’re done.
Last tip. Always put linear lighting on a dimmer. Lighting should be dynamic not simply on or off.
Older fellow sparky here and I love your content. Just a suggestion that works for me. Instead of 18-2 start running 18-3. If something goes wonky with one of the wires, you have a back up.
This is something that is done commercially by some of the smarter companies that hire out. I use the term smarter loosely as I feel if your any good at your job, you shouldn’t have to run backups. Some jobs spec it out (like Casey gas stations), and that’s just part of the game. To be fair, low volt wire does tend to snag on its self easily and is just annoying to run. We are entering a world where low volt switching and controls are a thing and that’s just life.
Wow, genius idea. I'm going to steal it at my company. Thanks!
Excellent idea!
Alright, I followed these instructions to a T when doing my kitchen remodel. Have had no problems with my under cabinet lighting, but was looking for an above the sink light and decided to do this there as well since it was low profile. Have one driver for ucl and one for above sink. The above sink one started blinking about 3 months ago. Going to check the connections but was thinking that above the sink strip is only like 2.5 feet, is the driver making it heat up because when I took off the extrusion channel cover the strip was pretty warm, mildly hot. Only difference in wiring is that ucl is set up just like you did in the video. Above sink went directly from switch to driver, then same wire used in video to strip. ALSO, just noticed that on the box is a sticker that says Use Only With Magnetic Dimmer Switch on it. PN 40L 12DC-AR
I was surprised you didn’t place these in a rail with a defuser. 1) being a kitchen, its only a matter of time until there is a boiling kettle of water directly below these strips. 2) not being diffused might be fine 1.5 feet below on the counter surface, but 6 inches below you will visually see the result of undiffused light on put lids, appliances, knife faces, hand and arms, ect. 3) your work is half a day, the home owner lives with this for years to a decade in the future, There is nothing visually appealing about a naked exposed LED strip.
Looks better in track w diffuser. Diodes don't show on countertop and eliminates glare
Agreed.. we use gm lighting tape light.. comes in 16’ reels, aluminum channels sold separately 3 different styles- standard, 45degree, and slim with a lip for route in situations.. channels really make it look professional and don’t really add too much time on install to have a much cleaner look. We also use a “stick on” plastic wire mold to clean up and secure the wire on the underside of cabinet. On another note, we also use 12/2 wire even for lt low voltage dc from driver to tape light lead- I realize it’s low wattage low voltage but consider the in rush current from the leds when it first is turned on
@@highryder100 12/2? Really? That really sounds like overkill.
@@highryder100 12-2 wow. Very interesting. Do you also install on a dedicated 20 amp circuit per 60 watt led driver?
@@jovetjyes dude obviously doesn’t understand basic ohms law
I feel like I miss a step. I wish you show us how you fish those 16 wire down the wall to the receptacle because I was wondering if you had any issues with with stud being somewhere in the wall
Anyone that is looking to do a project like this do some research of your own. The led count and length of your conductors need to be accounted for before sizing the driver. If you have long runs of lights or cabling from the driver a 24v led system will work better for you. If the driver is under sized most will self protect and turn off. If the driver is over sized it won't dim correctly with a dimmer. (When using a driver that allows dimming) There are websites with calculators if you are uncomfortable using Ohm's Law. Also don't run wires between the outlet cover plate and the drywall. It's not very professional way of getting wires to the driver.
talked to hid lights, they said 1.3w per foot. i have a total of 14 ft of run, so i need to stay as close to 25W as possible?
@@bennelly4308 what voltage? It makes a difference. Also how far from the driver will the strip be and what gage wire? If the driver isn't far away from the strip 20-25 watt drivers will work. If you have a long distance from the driver to the strip the wires can add to the load creating a need for a larger driver. But since your strip is around 18 total watts it would be hard to believe you need larger driver than 25 watts.
They made a dimmer switch that also acts as your LED driver. So no external transformer needed. Switchex Dimmer is what it’s called I believe
I use that set up as well. It’s great.
Thanks for the video. What would change if you wanted to install RGBW strip?
I'd love to see how the undercabinet finishing works with (leaves gaps for) the light strips.
Hi frome Greece I am electrician too we also make the same thing little different but if you want ican aend you photoa with led under the sink and when you open the sheet it opens very interesting to see how things are in USA keep up the good work
Have you ever used Switchex drivers? They fit in a single gang box and are driver & dimmer.
When I did mine I made right angle joints with solder and solid core wire (so that it held it's shape).
Heat shrink might actually be a good idea as many homeowners use counter top appliances that produce steam or moisture, such as, Sous vede, crockpots, steamers, pressure cookers, etc.
When I was self-employed, I did that with the totes. I'd label them for the client they were set up for and had cheat sheets for inventory use that listed everything in the box then the tech could check off what was used and for which location. That way I always had the extra rj45 crimps, plenum zip ties, drywall anchors, shims, whatever "little thing" that I might need. Even those little almond and white screws used for outlet covers. We use them for network jack wall covers and occasionally they get dropped.
YYYEEEEESSSS!!!!
@@ElectricProAcademy made it soooo much easier at midnight to grab a little thing then to drive 1 to 3 hours back to the office to grab it
true i broke a small thin piece of granit siding just by softly pressing it with my foot. tin granite is very fragile until you mount it
😬 What did it cost you?
We should always install LED tapes within an extrusion. Longer life span, increased visual comfort, less dots on the counter. Recommending direct installation is really "contractor style" and not good for the end users. I wouldn't recommend at all.
You're absolutely right. The LED channels have a diffuser quality and help soften and distribute the light evenly. Personally, I would spend the few extra dollars for prefab units that can purchased in various lengths and voltages. It would look a ton more custom and not look like an "afterthought". The mounting position should be farther back on the bottom of the wall cabinets and not on the front cabinet frame. This job looks so half-a$$ done, especially coming from a master electrician who owns the company. I'm not an electrician and installed undercabinet lights in my new kitchen...the results were so much more professional. Total cost was $120 for the 12 light kit.
Did you steel the disposal switch for your under cabinet lights? I’m wiring our new house and don’t want to use a wall switch for our UC lights. Seems easy enough to just hide a small switch under the cabinet.
Camera man dropped the ball on this one.
My Jacuzzi had a similar feature which, I guess, was for safety.
Great video. Shows his own mistakes and how to repair those issues. Great job.
Polarity always matters with DC systems.
Yea big time But in an ac circuit if you mix up ungrounded conductors and grounded conductors it’s pretty fucked as well
Another great spot for lever nuts.
Yeah, Wago has a nice butt splice model now that would have worked really well.
@@shubinternet Exactly
Have you used the Amazon Basics dimmer on LED dimmable drivers?
Nope. Have you? Are you recommending them or warning us?
Trying to figure out if they will work on my tape lights.
I was 5'10" 150-155 lb no matter how much I ate or how much I lifted.... Until I turned 42 or so. Suddenly I'm 46 and 190 lb. Ya never know!
For me it happened around age 15. LOL
😂
Worked at a large candy plant that made over a hundred different pieces of delicious candy. Gained 50 pounds during my ten years there. Me and another second shift would do electrical side work then first thing we did after punching in was grazing. Yep walked around and filled up on chocolate coated pieces & fresh roasted salted cashews. Would send a helper out to buy ice cream and make our own Sundaes with either hot chocolate or butter sotch syrup along with cherries.
@@JohnThomas-lq5qp Wow that sounds good
Wait 'til you hit 60, Helman. ;)
My Jacuzzi tub had a similar air switch.
I'm unclear as to whether you're installing the strip vertically on the back of the front lip of the cabinets (facing the wall) or horizontally (facing down). If the former, how do you get past the "fence" between (frame style) cabinets?
great video. talked to hid and they asked if it was going to be on a dimmer. since it will be, they suggested the same strip but with 600 leds instead of 300. now i am confused?
What color temperature do you recommend in the kitchen?
What wire choice do you choose to do these runs. I run 18 gauge, but have thought about running smaller gauge. The undercab light runs i've come across are 24v which seems to be the more popular. In these applications, its been a littler harder to find information on how small I can go. I've even looked into cat5 cable, or telephone wire to run these lights.
That brown wire he used in the video is usually 18 AWG.
Basic doorbell wire
No GFCI under that sink??
What gauge low voltage wire are you using?
18#
@@ElectricProAcademy thanks brother!
@@ElectricProAcademy this is the way!
When it's "exposed," heat shrink would look nicer, though.
Agreed!
if 1 LED fails, does the entire strip fail, similar to x-mas tree lights?
Curious why the bottom outlet has ground hole up an the one above doesn’t? Also, did you use an ohm meter to see if there was a short or was it intuition ? Nice job - next time just run a flexible low voltage conduit between points for greater flexibility. Im jealous- I’m not as bendable at my age Joel.
These guys are hacks.
Same reason he made up red to white early in the video.
@@Tom-wj4tr you can make your jacked up comments all you want but anyone with any sort of skill and knows code that the colors don’t freaking matter. It’s just trade practice. There is nothing in the code that says what color wire you have to use outside of your grounds. And there is damn near zero forced code on low volt.
Yes, we do things out of respect for other companies, but it’s not required.
Twin City electrician here.
Wanna argue switch loops while we are at it? What’s your opinion on that?
@@AdamS-lh2ug I hate switch loops - lol. There, I said it.
Loving your channel. you are so detailed and meticulous. I wonder why the receptacle is upside down. (ground on the top 2:33)
oversight or planned for the driver plug?
That’s actually the way outlets are intended to be installed. (Customers will be mad the face is upside down and tons of appliances with wall wart transformers will look upside down) BUT, the reason is that the ground pin is the last to leave the outlet when you pull the plug and having it on top will protect the connection for anything falling into the pins if the plug is slightly pulled out with a gap. Which brings us to this particular installation under a sink with the risk of water or other objects falling and coming in contact with the plug. The ground pin will be exposed and protect anything from bridging the gap between neutral and hot.
These outlets are the way all outlets are “supposed” to be installed. And if you look at your NEMA 14-30R or 14-50R outlets installed by an electrician (stove, dryer, EV and RV) they will most likely be installed correctly with the grounding pin on top.
they really should make 90 degree connectors to make it easier and a cleaner install
Air control on hot tubs since the begining.
11:35 I would wire the low voltage cable Red + and White -, as Red + and Black - is the standard.
can you add a dimmer switch?
It's possible with the right dimmer and placement
if your product is dimmable
We never saw the working finished product!
I would've done a continuity test on the wires
Great idea! Having seen that the voltage was correct into the driver, we knew the problem had to be the wire, but a double-check would have confirmed it wasn't the lights themselves that were the problem
Hera.......I had on for 24/7 .....15 years....when I redid my kitchen....finally replacing them they had no failures,with 11 pucks type in the cabinets. They stayed same color and output. They are finally getting dull. Way past the 70% rating for led...and good color at around 3,000k
Pinched wire ! I always like high voltage a lot better than the low voltage … wires are a lot more beefier … sorry you had to deal with this !
What brand meter was that ?
pretty sure its a KAIWEETS KM601
Never trust self-adhesive LEDs... for that matter, self-adhesive ANYTHING. The adhesive will fail.
Would you secure wires or piping to a wall with electrical tape?
It would have been more interesting to see you install under-cabinet lighting in an existing kitchen.
What you showed here was just kind of a lark.
yes something where the low voltage wire wasn't installed at rough in
you are a master electrician?
Remember all plate screws should be 12 - 6. Nice and straight. Also, Hubble / Bryant gfci that you so love are NOT Better than Leviton. So buy the Leviton and save the customer $$$
I'm going to have to correct you when i hear of hid I'm thinking old school those are LED🤣😂
They still make disposers? Lot of towns banned them causes grease issues in sewer systems
i've never seen a new construction house without one
@@james6794 Banned in my town, grease clogs sewers over the years...
Those are heat shrink butt splices and you will look like a noob if you don't shrink them
Did you seriously just run low voltage wire into wall beside the faceplate under the sink? What happened to preaching professional workmanship? You also said in about video about that $7K load center you were gonna pull Ethernet in the same conduit as high voltage, open that code book and read it instead of trying to make money on RUclips
Ohms law
Ghetto.
💪 p̴r̴o̴m̴o̴s̴m̴
🤦🏽♂️
What I do when installing led’s first of all I always install them on back of cabinet with a diffuser cover on a railing that clips on small railing co clips that you cut to size and that with take the shine out, just light, second, I eliminate all that butting and connectors and all that extra wire in between, I just solder it on straight and a small of heat shrink tube on the ends and done, cleaner and professional look, and yes polarity does matter on led’s.
I will definitely never hire you!!!
Man that just looks bad
Do you prefer the acrylic diffusers Francis? I like those too. Any other tricks to suggest?
Read my comment I suggest a few good tips that would look waaaaaaay better, no offense mr master Electrician…!!