Hey everyone! It has come to my attention that I am running some length of exposed 14-2 wire under the cabinet in this video! In such situations, the wire is able to be physically damaged and presents a dangerous situation. Please use the appropriate conduit for routing this wire to the intended location! I apologize for omitting a very important step from the video!
Another code violation and definite safety issue is that you need a protective box connector (non-metallic cable clamp) where the Romex 14/2 wire enters the fixture. This is due to the sharp metal edge the plastic wire goes through. On smaller fixtures, this can be a 1/4 inch size which is hard to find, most stores only have 3/8 which fits a 1/2 inch hole. www.amazon.com/dp/B00VST2LLS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_8FBXEbF6WPHGE
This is exactly what I was thinking while watching. And if you use the proper "outside of wall" conduit, this makes it horrible looking. It would not be hidden at all as the conduit pipe are big.
You could easily run a 1/2” conduit from the fixture and into the drywall without it looking ugly. Paint it whatever color the surface it’s mounted to is.
I wouldn't never use 1/2" EMT (thinwall conduit) to connect lighting under cabinets. I'm fairly skilled at bending pipe and I doubt that I could make it look nice. I've always considered using 3/8" flexible metal conduit under the cabinets. I have wired under cabinet lights with Romex but I've always known that Romex shouldn't be exposed like that. Because Romex can be bent and secured so easily it can really hide under there good.
I get paid to do this job all the time and after watching your video I think you did an excellent installation. From beginning to end every step was done correctly.
WOW!!! This is just the video I needed. I already had one light under my cabinet, which is not working now. I am going to change it out and use the jumper wires to connect others. So I will only need to start at 6:00 in this video. GREAT VIDEO!!!!!!
I must say your video is the best video straight forward no nonsense BS talk Straight to the point I learned a lot in the shortest time ever !!! Keep up the gr8 wrk
@1:34: If you pry with the tip of the screwdriver going into the stud and the shaft against the box, you won't damage the drywall. If you lever it back the other way (tip into the box, shaft against the drywall), you'll damage the drywall.
One more thing, to all complaining about the music...my computer has a volume control, sorry yours doesn't., cry babies. Nice video and music was fine. Keep up the good work.
This was the exact same light that I had purchased from our local Lowes and this was the perfect setup. I didn't have more than the single LED light above our new coffee bar in the Kitchen. Thanks for the hints and help.
Nice job. I have a similar situation to address in my kitchen. Your project reinforced what I must do to install 'wired' LED undercounter lighting. Appreciate your update to remind us to use conduit to address exposed wiring.
One issue, for most newer homes the kitchen plugs can't be used to steal power from. From what i understand if the outlet has a green ground wire you can split power off. If its the standard black, white and copper ground you cannot. You cannot use any dedicated circuits either ie microwave.
Except it doesn't appear to be a dedicated circuit as it doesn't have anything plugged into it. It's not even 20A. Nothing in the NEC prevents this. And what are you going on about green ground wire and copper ground? They're the same thing. The biggest concern out of anything here is the lack of conduit to protect the exposed romex.
A small detail that makes it look better is to add some small washers behind the outlet before screwing it in place to bring it out past the trim a little like the light switch. It looked sunk in and almost behind the trim
Great job! I have five light locations to be installed in my kitchen and controlled by one-rheostat. So nice to hear the reverent "my wife" instead of the temporary "shack-up", "girl friend" or "gal-pal".
I bought the same lights, at Lowes. I will have to jump further to the second light position then the enclose wire can reach. I think I can use a length of 14-2 wire to do that.
OK so one tip for next time: instead of the plastic box, you used… Use a plastic “old work“ box. Much easier. They also make them adjustable so you can adjust the depth flush with the sheet rock. Makes for a fantastic finished device installation.
This was pretty helpful if you only want one switch with one light or more on one run of cabinets. But if you have a run of cabinets on a wall with a sink that splits up the cabinets, say with a kitchen window between them, then what?
To shut off the right breaker with only one person, plug in a radio and turn it up loud. When the sound stops, you've found the right breaker. Or, run a shop light to the panel if you don't have a radio & watch when the light goes off.
I’m about ready to do this although I need shorter lights, already have a switch for an over the sink light so I can just tie into that, great video and helpful for me!
Agree with a lot of the comments below concerning the level of detail needed that was missing but the part that made me just stop watching was the music! Either less volume or loose it entirely if your open to suggestions.
but...can we have lights on plug outlet ? I want to do something similar but all I read is it is NOT compliant in a kitchen ( or possibly anywhere) to have lights and plugs on the same circuit ... please enlighten me
Thanks for the feedback! I'm sorry that didn't get covered adequately in the video. I'll try to provide that information here. The Good Earth LED lights we chose were designed to be hardwired and so they have a knockout on the chassis that you feed your source romex cable through. I had to open the chassis to see what I was doing. On the inside, the three wires corresponding to hot (black), neutral (white) and ground (green) coming from the lamp itself were already fixed with red push-in quick connect wire connectors on the ends and so they expect you to simply strip the end of your source cabling and push your black, white and ground wires into their respective connectors. It takes a little force but once they're in, they're pretty much locked in there. Then I just had to squeeze everything into a small enough space that I could close the chassis back up. Hope this will suffice, and we'll be sure to be more thorough in the future!
Good video. unfortunately I was thinking you are going to install LED strips and I was interested in knowing how the hardwired should go in this case (trx, extension cords, etc.)
Hi! Sorry I didn't go that route, but in your case, the LED strip lights would likely need somewhere between 5-12V DC, in which case you would want to install a rectifier of some sort. It will look something like this: amzn.to/3hJvp7B . Of course, you'd search for one that matches the voltage you need. You would mount that box in a safe, inaccessible location, such as above the cabinetry, and run your low voltage wire down to the beginning segment of your LED strips. Your strips would probably come with a jumper cable to join multiple strips together.
The dimmer switch I bought comes with a green “ground” wire and two black “neutrals”. Can I remove this ground wire if I use your method of grounding through the outlet?
Hi! I would take advantage of the ground post on the switch and join it via pigtail to the other ground wires. If a ground fault happens in the switch as opposed to the receptacle, however unlikely, you’ll be glad you put in the small extra effort!
all that lousy music is distracting from the more important work he is doing. if he heard the music that is why he forgot to run conduit to prevent damage to his wiring
@@jameslindberg1273 He asked for feedback. He can't improve without knowing what needs improvement. People have enough annoyances so they're not likely to benefit from his help if they fail to watch because they don't want additional annoyance.
I’m pretty sure I saw a stud in the way when you removed the drywall. You should have mentioned to check where that stud is before drawing the cutout. If I’m right, and there was a stud there, you would have used a multi-tool to cut away that stud. Best to use a stud finder if you can’t see the stud on either side of the box from the mounting screws/nails. Also, it looks like you have a Dacor-style switch. It would be better to change out the receptacle to a dacor-style one too, so the face plate will be ‘standard’. Overall, good job though. :-)
Hi! The only stud that was in the vicinity was the one that the 1-gang box was attached to. I see that there was a hanging piece of drywall tape that might have looked like another stud in the middle of my cutout. Sorry if that was what you were seeing and it was distracting! And I agree with you that the other style receptacle does indeed match better. Thanks for the recommendation!
Good job, techniques. I can live with the romex, bit probably better to use wire mold if there’s room. I agree. But protect the counter! You must have dinged or scratched it. Would you work like that at your mother’s home or grandmothers home? Thumbs up anyway!
Concerned about romex passing through the sharp metal edges of the light knockout. I would have used a romex to knockout fitting. Or put in a conduit to knockout adapter and ran coax to the hole in the wall.
Hey Rich, the light assemblies came with their own knockout fittings to protect the cable from the rough metal edge. Sorry, I didn't give it much time in the video but you can see me installing it at about the 5:55 mark.
@theDevCouch I like what you have done. Can I do the same but connect the Romex directly to the power outlet behind the wall without adding a switch? Let me know what you think or it will non compliant. I am in the Midwest US.
As long as the fixture itself has a switch you're fine. If not, the light will be on 24/7. No code issues with doing it the same way but skipping the switch.
Hey everyone! It has come to my attention that I am running some length of exposed 14-2 wire under the cabinet in this video! In such situations, the wire is able to be physically damaged and presents a dangerous situation. Please use the appropriate conduit for routing this wire to the intended location! I apologize for omitting a very important step from the video!
Another code violation and definite safety issue is that you need a protective box connector (non-metallic cable clamp) where the Romex 14/2 wire enters the fixture. This is due to the sharp metal edge the plastic wire goes through. On smaller fixtures, this can be a 1/4 inch size which is hard to find, most stores only have 3/8 which fits a 1/2 inch hole. www.amazon.com/dp/B00VST2LLS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_8FBXEbF6WPHGE
This is exactly what I was thinking while watching. And if you use the proper "outside of wall" conduit, this makes it horrible looking. It would not be hidden at all as the conduit pipe are big.
You could easily run a 1/2” conduit from the fixture and into the drywall without it looking ugly. Paint it whatever color the surface it’s mounted to is.
Zach Smith no, that would look like shit
I wouldn't never use 1/2" EMT (thinwall conduit) to connect lighting under cabinets. I'm fairly skilled at bending pipe and I doubt that I could make it look nice. I've always considered using 3/8" flexible metal conduit under the cabinets. I have wired under cabinet lights with Romex but I've always known that Romex shouldn't be exposed like that. Because Romex can be bent and secured so easily it can really hide under there good.
I get paid to do this job all the time and after watching your video I think you did an excellent installation. From beginning to end every step was done correctly.
Hey thanks a lot for the positive feedback!
Just out of curiosity, what do you charge for this kind of service?
I would also like to know how much you charge for this service
@O ab Thanks for the feedback! This light kit came with a tough rubber or plastic connector. You can catch a glimpse of it at 5:55
Great video. Short and to the point. Showed all the steps without rambling on about stuff that has nothing to do with the video. 👍
I am a licensed electrician and I enjoyed your video. Quality work
Thanks and glad you enjoyed it!
One of the best ones I've seen! The diagram was perfect!
For a no electrician, you did a very good job. From a Licensed EC
Thanks, much appreciated!
Someone getting some tonight, great job, electrically wise you did evuthing correctly.
WOW!!! This is just the video I needed. I already had one light under my cabinet, which is not working now. I am going to change it out and use the jumper wires to connect others. So I will only need to start at 6:00 in this video. GREAT VIDEO!!!!!!
Glad you found it useful! Thanks!
I must say your video is the best video straight forward no nonsense BS talk Straight to the point I learned a lot in the shortest time ever !!! Keep up the gr8 wrk
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it
This is a game changer!!! So smart. Thank you for this awesome knowledge. I can now ask my electrician to do this. I need task lighting asap!!
@1:34: If you pry with the tip of the screwdriver going into the stud and the shaft against the box, you won't damage the drywall. If you lever it back the other way (tip into the box, shaft against the drywall), you'll damage the drywall.
Nice musical score. Thanks for your time. Very helpful.
Nice job, better than most "pros".
One more thing, to all complaining about the music...my computer has a volume control, sorry yours doesn't., cry babies. Nice video and music was fine. Keep up the good work.
Hey, hi there! Thank you for posting this video. It was very helpful & thoughtful of you!😊
Great, might try this method with my contractor to save money. Thank you.
Enjoyed the video but the background music was too loud.
This was the exact same light that I had purchased from our local Lowes and this was the perfect setup. I didn't have more than the single LED light above our new coffee bar in the Kitchen. Thanks for the hints and help.
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Amazing job man! I have found the music a bit stressful and difficult to hear what you say but I got the message!
Thank you! Sorry about the music, in future videos I'll keep it a little more tame :p
Thanks for the video brother. Just what I was looking for.
Glad you found it useful!
In the end, the lights look so gooood !
Nice job. I have a similar situation to address in my kitchen. Your project reinforced what I must do to install 'wired' LED undercounter lighting. Appreciate your update to remind us to use conduit to address exposed wiring.
Great job! Exactly what I was looking for!
Keep up the good work!
Awesome! Thanks for this as I have been thinking about doing this in our kitchen.
Nice video, ran across it by chance. Have to agree the music is overbearing. But thanks for posting the video
You really did a great job installing the light though you are not a electrician.😊😊👍👍👍
One issue, for most newer homes the kitchen plugs can't be used to steal power from. From what i understand if the outlet has a green ground wire you can split power off. If its the standard black, white and copper ground you cannot. You cannot use any dedicated circuits either ie microwave.
Except it doesn't appear to be a dedicated circuit as it doesn't have anything plugged into it. It's not even 20A. Nothing in the NEC prevents this. And what are you going on about green ground wire and copper ground? They're the same thing.
The biggest concern out of anything here is the lack of conduit to protect the exposed romex.
@@TsikuraThank you I was wondering about the exposed romex too. What would you use to protect it in this kind of installation?
Great video thanks for posting. You made it easy to understand and you went step by step
I like building off an existing outlet. Great idea / solution
I’m enjoying this break from the normal boring background music on RUclips. Be you.
Haha appreciate it. I really fudged on the levels. But certainly not much I can do about it now. 😋
Thank you for the video. I was able to do a similar project at home.
Awesome! Glad to hear it!
A small detail that makes it look better is to add some small washers behind the outlet before screwing it in place to bring it out past the trim a little like the light switch. It looked sunk in and almost behind the trim
Yeah I dig it man, just wrapped up my own reno pot lite sitcheeation it’s the only way to go. Plug in to a receptacle would look lame.
Great video. Love the music!
Great job! I have five light locations to be installed in my kitchen and controlled by one-rheostat. So nice to hear the reverent "my wife" instead of the temporary "shack-up", "girl friend" or "gal-pal".
Excellent DIY video.
Love the subject and information. Don't care for the extra noise that some may call music. Thanks
You did an awesome job!! Thanks for the tips.
awesome video. lovely couple! thanks for the tutorial!
I like the love note on the right side. ❤
Great job bro. I liked the video.
Nice straight forward video thank you!
I'm going to install some light. Y'all ready to ROOOOCCK!!!!!!!!!
Where did you get those device boxes, I can’t find them anywhere.
Everyone watching should have a volume control on their RUclips screen and computer. I'm sure of it.
Awesome video thanks. Chill on music next time overbearing.
I enjoyed the music lmao
Nah I disagree, the music was a vibe
Great job looks like a pro
Great video, thanks, u really did a great job, probably I would use the circle light under the cabinets
I bought the same lights, at Lowes.
I will have to jump further to the second light position then the enclose wire can reach.
I think I can use a length of 14-2 wire to do that.
OK so one tip for next time: instead of the plastic box, you used… Use a plastic “old work“ box. Much easier. They also make them adjustable so you can adjust the depth flush with the sheet rock. Makes for a fantastic finished device installation.
Good explanation! Thanks.
This was pretty helpful if you only want one switch with one light or more on one run of cabinets. But if you have a run of cabinets on a wall with a sink that splits up the cabinets, say with a kitchen window between them, then what?
To shut off the right breaker with only one person, plug in a radio and turn it up loud. When the sound stops, you've found the right breaker. Or, run a shop light to the panel if you don't have a radio & watch when the light goes off.
Simple and intelligent install. Kudos!
Thank you very much!
Nice job just what I needed to see
I appreciate your video but tone down music will be nice.
Great video. 1 suggestion, buy higher quality brands that have pre set cabinet depth screws in the fixture ready for installation.
Where do you put the power pack/dimmer? In attic?
Thx
You did a great job! Curious after 3 years, did any of them burn out yet?.. How much usage? Thanks.
Great video!!! Exactly what I wanted.
I’m about ready to do this although I need shorter lights, already have a switch for an over the sink light so I can just tie into that, great video and helpful for me!
Excellent. One thing I would suggest is check codes for exposed wire and/or use wire molding.
Thanks! Yeah I actually went back and ran the exposed part through conduit but that failed to make it into this video!
@@thedevcouch9789What type of conduit did you use? And how did you secure it to the light fixture and the hole in the wall?
Great video!
Well done! Thanks for sharing.
nice... I wish I knew someone like you who can do that to our kitchen..
This was extremely helpful. Thanks!
Iam debating between buying the RGBW strip or just the black and decker lights to install under kitchen cabinets?
Sorry, the music is so distractingly loud.
my ears are bleeding
If you must have music use soft relaxing music at low volume but in reality music is NOT needed. Save it for bedtime.
Geez go easy on the music man... lol
I thought it was nice 🤷🏼♂️
Had to quit watching bc of the annoying music.
Louder actually
WHAT???
What music
Agree with a lot of the comments below concerning the level of detail needed that was missing but the part that made me just stop watching was the music! Either less volume or loose it entirely if your open to suggestions.
but...can we have lights on plug outlet ? I want to do something similar but all I read is it is NOT compliant in a kitchen ( or possibly anywhere) to have lights and plugs on the same circuit ... please enlighten me
Nice job. But would have liked to know how exactly wires connected inside the light. Thanks
Thanks for the feedback! I'm sorry that didn't get covered adequately in the video. I'll try to provide that information here. The Good Earth LED lights we chose were designed to be hardwired and so they have a knockout on the chassis that you feed your source romex cable through. I had to open the chassis to see what I was doing. On the inside, the three wires corresponding to hot (black), neutral (white) and ground (green) coming from the lamp itself were already fixed with red push-in quick connect wire connectors on the ends and so they expect you to simply strip the end of your source cabling and push your black, white and ground wires into their respective connectors. It takes a little force but once they're in, they're pretty much locked in there. Then I just had to squeeze everything into a small enough space that I could close the chassis back up. Hope this will suffice, and we'll be sure to be more thorough in the future!
Good work man!
Appreciate it!
Good video. unfortunately I was thinking you are going to install LED strips and I was interested in knowing how the hardwired should go in this case (trx, extension cords, etc.)
Hi! Sorry I didn't go that route, but in your case, the LED strip lights would likely need somewhere between 5-12V DC, in which case you would want to install a rectifier of some sort. It will look something like this: amzn.to/3hJvp7B . Of course, you'd search for one that matches the voltage you need. You would mount that box in a safe, inaccessible location, such as above the cabinetry, and run your low voltage wire down to the beginning segment of your LED strips. Your strips would probably come with a jumper cable to join multiple strips together.
Awesome video. Just installed my lights. Thank you!
Perfect video for what I needed!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, thanks. Must be cold in your house, everyone is bundled up. Lol
The dimmer switch I bought comes with a green “ground” wire and two black “neutrals”. Can I remove this ground wire if I use your method of grounding through the outlet?
Hi! I would take advantage of the ground post on the switch and join it via pigtail to the other ground wires. If a ground fault happens in the switch as opposed to the receptacle, however unlikely, you’ll be glad you put in the small extra effort!
Glad I'm not the only one annoyed by the loud awful music.
all that lousy music is distracting from the more important work he is doing. if he heard the music that is why he forgot to run conduit to prevent damage to his wiring
You guy’s need to get a life. He’s trying to help others understand this and you criticize him. Where’s your videos? Thought so.
@@jameslindberg1273 He asked for feedback. He can't improve without knowing what needs improvement. People have enough annoyances so they're not likely to benefit from his help if they fail to watch because they don't want additional annoyance.
I cant stop shaking my head and body!! Lol
Great job! Thanks!
Thank you too!
Nice video man
Thanks for the visit
Great tutorial, Thx!
What tool you use for cable tie management? might I ask?
"Make sure your sheathing comes into the box a quarter inch."???? What the heck does that mean?
Bro new to your channel… great video
Thanks!
I’m pretty sure I saw a stud in the way when you removed the drywall. You should have mentioned to check where that stud is before drawing the cutout. If I’m right, and there was a stud there, you would have used a multi-tool to cut away that stud. Best to use a stud finder if you can’t see the stud on either side of the box from the mounting screws/nails.
Also, it looks like you have a Dacor-style switch. It would be better to change out the receptacle to a dacor-style one too, so the face plate will be ‘standard’.
Overall, good job though. :-)
Hi! The only stud that was in the vicinity was the one that the 1-gang box was attached to. I see that there was a hanging piece of drywall tape that might have looked like another stud in the middle of my cutout. Sorry if that was what you were seeing and it was distracting! And I agree with you that the other style receptacle does indeed match better. Thanks for the recommendation!
@@thedevcouch9789 : Thanks guy. I always appreciate your coaching. I couldn’t see clearly with it sped up... plus my eyes.. :-) Cheers.
Your video was awesome, regardless of the music.
Where do you find/purchase the wire to connect(daisy chain) the lights together? Thanks
These LED products came with the daisy chain in case you were purchasing more than one
how does the light stay on, on your drill?
Good job, techniques. I can live with the romex, bit probably better to use wire mold if there’s room. I agree. But protect the counter! You must have dinged or scratched it. Would you work like that at your mother’s home or grandmothers home? Thumbs up anyway!
Does this hard wire into electrical socket or light socket?
Thanks for watching! I hard wired the lights to the electrical outlet receptacle.
I believe the code is written to keep lighting circuits separate from the counter top outlet circuits, as well.
Concerned about romex passing through the sharp metal edges of the light knockout. I would have used a romex to knockout fitting. Or put in a conduit to knockout adapter and ran coax to the hole in the wall.
Hey Rich, the light assemblies came with their own knockout fittings to protect the cable from the rough metal edge. Sorry, I didn't give it much time in the video but you can see me installing it at about the 5:55 mark.
Was the a grounded outlet? I didn't hear you mention that it was.
Great video thanks
Loved the music, great video
Hi just a thought why not just use a switch and recepticle out let new new box needed ?
But what if the back wall is tiled ? really going to cut into tiles ?
my kind of home improvement music
Agree that the music was distracting
Omg that music is a train wreck
@theDevCouch I like what you have done. Can I do the same but connect the Romex directly to the power outlet behind the wall without adding a switch? Let me know what you think or it will non compliant. I am in the Midwest US.
As long as the fixture itself has a switch you're fine. If not, the light will be on 24/7. No code issues with doing it the same way but skipping the switch.
@@justinhoagland1755 Got it! Much appreciated!