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Hi Chris, Great job on both the installation and the video. Thanks for that. I have a few questions about a similar job for my kitchen. Should I post them here or can I email/ message you?
@@ChrisMaherDIY i had seen what looked like you placing the LEDs on the bottom of the cabinet directly. It was a little noisy on this end with some road construction going on outside. So I incorrectly assumed. But saw them at the end when you showed the wiring. That's why I deleted my comment. 😁
Electrician here, install a outlet inside your cabinet right above your outlet. Just use a cut in box. That way you dont have the ugly cable showing. You could easily fish a wire straight up and into your cut in box. No wires showing. Just my 2 cents
In some places (like Canada), the codes does not allow an electrical box inside a cabinet. For example a microwave will have an outlet on the wall and an opening in the cabinet
We had our electrician add 2 switched outlets on either side of our kitchen, one in the upper cabinet, one in the lower cabinet. Planning to hide wiring behind woodwork and in cabinets, but we are installing toekick and under cabinet lighting. They're on a 3 way switch next to the big light switch at both entrances.
This is an awesome video. I did this exact project about 10 yrs ago in my previous home. The products have upgraded a bit since then, so this is a great start for me doing it again in my current home. Thank you!
Tips from my last install: Put the LEDs 1-2" away from the front lip of the cabinet underside. Use the face frame edge to top the light juuuust before the counter edge and prevent the light from spilling over the counter onto the floor. This will prevent ugly shadow lines on the floor and cabinet fronts. Also by putting the LEDs on the front edge they will illuminate the fronts of objects on your counter and produce a softer illumination of the backsplash. It's also harder to see directly when crouched down. An angled track can also change the distribution of the light. I carved a notch out of the cabinet bottoms instead of a hole through their joints. This produces a seamless line and light when seen in the reflection of the counter. The COB "dotless" LED strips are 100% worth it especially seen in a shiny countertop reflection. Keeping the last LED from running right up against the wall on the end of a bank of cabinets also dulls the "hot spot" effect. I prefer to use the controllers that take a dimming 120V source as the dimmer control for the 12-24V output. This means a handsome dimmer-paddle switch (e.g. Lutron) is a one-touch control for all aspects of the light (except programming obv.).
What controller do you speak of? I am just looking into this project but I’d love to have the LED lights controlled via a regular light switch with dimmer. Thanks
for added effect i also ran the same lighting under the bottom cabinets in the kickboard space so you get a floor wash. Works really well. I concealed my power supplies on the top of my cabinets and ran the cabling behind the cabinets. You can use a fused spur to permanently wire in and get rid of the ugle black cable in your install. Works like a charm. Nice vid
Thanks so much for watching and glad yours turned out what sounds like way better than mine! Was it tricky doing the fused spur? I've never done something like that but if not too difficult, might be worth doing to get rid of the black cord!
Thank you for this video. I just used your instructions and the equipment in your description to give my cabinets a beautiful face lift. I appreciated the help!
There's a lot of great information in this video. I'm going to replace some old florescent fixtures under my cabinets: this video definitely made my project easier.
Been wanting to add under cabinet light to my house for some time. Finally got around to working up the nerve to learn to solder and got the remainder of the items. Just recreated this in my kitchen and love how it turned out. Appreciate the great videos and tutorials. Keep up the good work. God Bless!
Can't wait to knock this one out. Only suggestion I can make is put a junction box in the cabinet and run some romex from the plug you used up into the cabinet. Then you don't need to cut all the connectors and all the wires are hidden inside. Great job, cheers!
Thats for sure the best way to do it. I was not quite confident enough to try doing it that way but at some point I might convert things to that! Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment!
I recently redid my kitchen., I considered a strip type that was action controlled. I did not want the lights to come on and off all the time as I have a dog that comes and goes in our kitchen at night. Instead, I used the stick-on tab lights and put them under my cabinets. They are connected to my electric light switch. These were inexpensive and work beautifully for us. Remove the protective paper and stick them to the bottom of the cabinet-easy/peasy!
I just realized I responded on your pinned comment. To hide my PSUs for my kitchen, i set 3 cabinets (1 upper and 2 lower) with outlets inside so that i could hide them. I'm still remodeling the kitchen, so I have not installed the LEDs yet. But they will be controlled with WLED. Granted that I had the luxury of getting to the studs. I did that because I had to fix some other issues, too. But you can easily run an outlet into an existing cabinet with the correct tools.
Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment! That would be the best way of doing this! I just was not confident enough to try doing that lol.
This is nice man! I know that dealing with cameras and whatnot while doing the work can be a bit annoying, so appreciate you taking the time to share! I hate to be that guy, but I gotta say it: it’s probably okay for the low voltage, but that “exposed” Wago in the cabinet coming straight from 120v can be super dangerous man. If someone pulls it either by hand or say a plate touches it just right, it could be bad bad news. Just get an electrical box, do the connection inside of it, put a cover plate, and call it the day. There are metal boxes in which you can screw to the back of the cabinet (make sure to use knockout connectors and ground the box if you go with the metal box). I’m not doing this to annoy you. It’s truly coming out of concern for you and whoever else is in your house. I’ve been swallowing your videos today. Really appreciate you! Sorry for the long comment.
Thanks so much for watching! Thanks for the safety tip as well as I appreciate you looking out! I'll for sure look into that! I'm for sure not an expert so I'm always thankful for people who are more knowledgeable than me who take the time to comment! Hope you have a great day!
Excellent demonstration. I remodeled my kitchen three years ago and for the past, about 2-years, I been trying to get a great idea how I’m bridging everything and incorporating a possible dimmer/ Bluetooth etc. thanks for this because it answered every question!
Great work chief, great explanation. Advice: next time install a outlet in one of the cabinets to plug in the lights. They also make single wago connectors to extend single wires, (splice)
Thanks so much for watching! I hope to at some point do that! It doesn't sound very hard but a little more work then I was wanting to do at the time. And I recently found out about those single wago connectors, purchased some and love them! Thanks for taking the time to comment!
I have been considering doing this but I was going to use a diagonal/corner diffuser and mount it at the corner of the front of the cabinet, between the bottom of the cabinet and the front lip, so that it is completely hidden from sight and you should also avoid the strip being visible in the reflection on the countertops.
Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment! That's for sure a good idea! Let me know how things turn out if you try doing it! I'd love to see the finished results!
@ben did you do this? I'm wondering if you still had a shadow line on the countertop. I've been researching the answer to that question and haven't found it yet.
Once I buy a house I will probably rewatch all these videos again. Totally something I would do. I think I would have tried to find a flat plug so the plug isn't sticking out to much.
Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment! Glad you are liking the videos! That's something I actually thought of doing! I still might but have not spend much time looking for a flat plug. I also think a white cord might blend in better. So a flat, white cord would be ideal lol. Thanks again for watching and for the great suggestion!
Hey Chris, I'm based in UK and have been watching and following your channel for a while. I'm taking inspiration from you and will be doing my own room at home soon as I'm buying my first house. Thank you for showing us how easy this work is. And your links are a godsend haha So big up from Liverpool UK
Very nice job & you gave a great presentation of it. I would have done few things differently, but it's a nice DIY. One suggestion if I might add is to just use the flexible LED strip lighting with 3M self adhesive backing. When I remodeled our kitchen 8 years ago that's what I used. I stuck the strips to the inside edge of the front lip of our cabinets which puts the lights completely out of sight and the light strips point toward the backsplash instead of the countertop. They still light the entire countertop and there are no shadows on the counters or the backsplash. We have glossy quarts countertops & there are no reflections from the lights at all. Since I did a complete kitchen remodel, I rewired the entire room at that time & added 8 circuits. This allowed me to add 2 switched outlets inside my cabinets so I have the 2 power supplies & dimmers inside the cabinets & out of sight. Then all I had to do was drill holes down through the outside corners to feed my light strips. Just like @frederf3227 mentioned, I also cut a notch in the cabinet bottoms in order to run my strip lights straight through from one cabinet to the next with no splicing. Our cabinet lights run 24-7 except when we leave home for more than a day or two. They have been lit almost continually since March of 2015 and still look like the day I installed them.
Thanks so much for watching and glad you liked the video! Thanks for taking the time to comment and for all the great recommendations! If I knew what I was doing, it sounds like I would probably do things pretty much exactly as you did! Nice job and crazy how its still going perfect almost 8 years later!!
Thank you for sharing this! I did my own install a while back but the connector+LED combo I used has the lights flickering due to poor connections. I'm taking all your recommendations an ordering everything today, can't wait to see how it comes out!
If you counter plug wire is dropped from the top you can just install a new plug inside the upper cabinet. Then you can just drop the wires straight out of the upper cabinet. Toe kick lighting would be pretty sweet too.
Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment! That is for sure a great idea!! I'm sure down the road I could try doing this and would not be too difficult to convert!
The problem with the low profile stripping is you can see the tracks if you are sitting down at your dining table and the bare lights are not too attractive. I prefer to use angle strips which provide a more finished look and hide the lights as well as connections better.
I only bought one under cabinet light from IKEA and placed it on top of the fridge facing up and it still makes a huge difference for our kitchen. But if I decide to buy more to place under the cabinets the command strips are going to be my only option as I live in a rental and can’t make holes on the cabinets.
I did this with low profile led puck lights 10 years ago. The only difference was the hard wire into the transformer. What I did was buy a outlet and switch combo. Fish a small wire behind the wall where the plug is and run it into the cabinet above. added a junction box and tied it into the transformer. Now the light is controled by a switch and you still have 1 outlet remaining. Now with the motion switch it's much better you wont need a outlet switch combo anymore.
Thanks so much for watching and for the great ideas and breakdown of how you did it. Sounds like a very professional install vs my diy attempt lol. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
It was a little flimsier than I expected. I had to add a 2x2 piece of wood to the bottom on the rear side in order to stabilize it better ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXTh-lz-8W6GcB219vTLp27-MxbZYObBX . It is also starting to bow a little at the outer wall ( I've had it up for about 6 months), I've already had a shelf tumble down because of the bow and the fact that the little shelf brackets are quite short. I went out to home depot and got some longer ones so that the shelves don't tumble down again. Overall, it looks very nice for the price and it holds a lot ( I use it as a pantry). I am very satisfied with my purchase. I just strongly suggest reinforcing it before putting it up.
Thank you for the video. I plan to source this project from an outlet that is inside a cabinet on top of my over the range microwave, can I add a switch before the dimmer assembly to turn led strip lights on / off and then use the dimmer to increase / decrease light intensity? If I can what switch with housing do you recommend?
I did the same about 6yrs ago with regular led strips but I do think it's time to replace them with these as they are starting to go bad. I would recommend to anyone to place the strips closer to the front of the cabinets as it won't create shadows on things you're using on the counter... not all the way to the front as the front cabinet lip will create shadows as well. I place mine about 2 in from the front lip.
Outstanding Job!!!! You kitchen looks amazing!!!!! I’ll be installing my lights soon (after new glass backsplash is installed) You really simplified things for me 😀
Another option is to add in a new outlet hidden at the top above the cabinets for power. Should be really easy to fish tape Romex and use a new work box and have everything truly hidden.
That is a great Idea. I don't really have any experience doing that but I'm sure after a couple RUclips video's I would feel confident enough to give it a try! Thanks so much for watching and for the great suggestion!
I was wondering when you’d do these. Love the video. I’m moving in a couple weeks, but renting.. So I can’t drill but I’ll definitely be doing some under cabinet lighting at the new place. 👍
Thanks as always for the support! Yeah this one is actually practical as the additional light really does make a big difference in the kitchen! For sure ways you can do this without drilling! Just might be a little bit messier but you can get pretty creative hiding wires just using 3m removable adhesive!
Thanks so much for watching! You could certainly do that and it would probably work just fine. The aluminum does help with heat dispersion which should help extend the life of the LEDs and the sticky tape on the led strip does stick better to the aluminum then it does to the wood/paint.
Interesting you choose channels and then double sided tape considering Cobb strips have a built in diffuser. Felt like an unneeded step but it looks great 😃. Also surprised you didn't run an outlet into the cabinet to hide that black wire sticking out from under the cabinet. Thank you for this video. You've got my ideas churning for my kitchen now
Thanks so much for watching! Yeah there are for sure different ways to do this. It seems like people do recommend the aluminum channels to help with heat dispersion to increase the longevity of the leds. You also certainly don't have to use the diffuser itself either. It does soften the brightness a little bit and if your sitting at our dinner table you can see a little bit of the leds and the diffuser helps make that not as harsh. I would love to run an outlet into the cabinet but I feel like I don't have the skill to pull something like that off yet. Is it pretty easy to do?
@@ChrisMaherDIY is is easier to run outlet than it is to solder tiny strands of wire. You would be a natural at adding an outlet. Especially since you have an outlet so close to your cabinet already. Little dry wall patch, some sanding & paint & you're golden.
COB + AL is good to keep the lines straight, not sure how effective is it as the CCT BTF lights I’ve been using don’t produce much heat, milky diffuser definitely affects the brightness, I would keep it for over the counter application as it would protect from moisture, steam etc, other option is to use the IP67 version as they are transparent and provide protection
Great video. I am in the construction phase and have had an electrician run 14/3 to each under cabinet location. I did't know what kind of lights i would be using when they ran the wires. how would you connect the 14/3 to the COB lights you have shown? i believe each 14/3 will be coming out in the middle of the cabinet rather than to one side.
Thanks so much for watching! I would double check with an electrician but I think you would only need 2 of those 3 wires. The ground I don't think would be necessary. I'm also not sure what voltage would be coming out of those so for sure double check that to see if they are compatible!
Thank you for your video. It is excellent information and well done. What do you connect the ground wire to from the plug that goes inside the cabinet?
Chris we want to put under cabinet lighting as well as cabinet lighting in three cabinets with glass doors. We have power inside the cabinets already to be used from a wall switch. Do you have any suggestions or ideas on the best way to accomplish that task? I could send pics of my kitchen cabinets if you’d like. Thanks so much
Hi, Chris! I really love your video! Just have one question, I have 2 windows in my kitchen between the cabinets. And I see you use one switch to control two separate sections of strips lights. How do you connect these two separate strips? How do you hide the wire when there is a window?
Hi, Chris, I think I followed the steps you described which are quite clear, thank you! My issue is that the light strip is flashing on and off rapidly. I want solid on for under cabinet lights. I don't have a controller. How can I stop the flashing and get solid on? Thanks, again.
I’m having the exact same issue, so it means the power supply is overloaded. but in my case, I only connected 2 20” strips so far. One strip was fine and 2 it started blinking. I have the linked 72w 24V power supply. According to the led spec, 1 meter of led strip is only 12w so my only guess is that the connecting wires I got are wrong? But they are standard 18awg silicone wires, Idk what went wrong. Have you fixed your issue yet?
I found my mistake, I got a 12v lightstrip (I wanted the 6000K light) rather than the 24v one suggested by Chris. Once I got a 12V power supply, it all worked. I used the LED strip connectors rather than soldering the connections. I found the connectors to be somewhat finicky and now understand why Chris soldered the joints. Good luck.
Thanks for your reply, unfortunately both of my led strip and power supply label say 24V so that’s not my problem. I also switched to soldering today but the 12 inch second strip even by itself still blinks, I just ordered a 200W new power supply to see if that resolves it so I would know if it is the power supply issue
Do you have any feedback for these high density strips regarding heat and how heat affects their lifetime? I really like the idea of spotless lighting, whether by high density LEDS, diffusers, or a combination of the two, but am concerned about unneeded heat. Thanks.
Thanks for your inspiration! Until now I only used Govee LEDs, but now I will test out COB LEDs too. The LED density is much higher and easier to work with. Your voice is also very smooth to listen :D
Thanks so much for watching and I appreciate the kind words! I'm glad you are liking the videos and I 100% agree! COB LEDS are really nice for certain projects that dont need all the color!
I like it. I'm going to do this. I also have a half brain idea that it might be cool to run a led strip underneath the countertops - if the channels are thin enough to stay fairly hidden.
Can that COB light be hardwired to a switch? Having a hard time finding out what kind of AC to DC adapter I would need? I'm planning to hook it up to a dimmer switch.
Thanks so much for watching! That's a great question. I was having a hard time figuring out that as well which is why I just went the plug rout. I'm sure its something that can be done (and probably easily) but unfortunately I do not know how. Maybe someone else reading the comments might know and can chime in!
@@ChrisMaherDIY yeah that'd be great. I have over a thousand hours of electrical, so I know how to do it, I'm just unsure of what is the most compatible. Thanks for responding.
@@hancockhale You should be able to get a regular dimmer switch that is compatible with LEDs. The switch I got for mine is a Lutron. I'll be adding a two gang box and putting the dimmer next to an existing switch. 120V house power to the dimmer, dimmer to the controller which converts it, 12V controller power to LED strips. You'll just need a controller suitable for your project, which is the step I'm trying to figure out now as well.
@@MikeHoncho8D thanks! That was helpful. Are you planning to hide the controller in the cab or under it once you poke it out of the wall? I'm doing a similar thing, but I already have a two gang box there so I am just going to make them into stacked switches.
@@hancockhale We don’t have cabinets that go to the ceiling, and they also have crown around the top, so it creates a recessed area for the controller and the over cabinet strips to sit without being visible. If I didn’t have that space above, I’d probably mount it in the cabinet somewhere out of the way.
Thanks for the great videos - Im having trouble sorting out several of the materials i need to order- When I go to amazon there are both 12 and 24 volt transformers- from my car LED work we always use 12V -, so which one? Also when I go to the link you provided for the COB strips- many options for lighting- did you use the natural white strip? and once again 12 or 24V?
Thanks so much for watching! So you can do 12 or 24 volt but you just need to make sure you are then using the correct 12 or 24 volt led strips. I used the warm white ones since that's the one my wife liked best. I personally probably would have gone with the neutral but that's just me!
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Wow, everything came out so nice! Love your channel and how well explained your videos are!
Thanks for your video, it was very helpful. Question: I have 12V AC coming out of the wall. Do you recommend a AC to DC converter for the 12V DC COB lights and if so, could you recommend a product.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! That would for sure be the rout to go! At some point I may do that but would have to learn how to do it first lol.
@@ChrisMaherDIY Ha, it’s super easy. Will take 30 mins once you’ve got all you need, esp if you stay in the same stud bay and just go straight up above your current outlet inside the cabinets. Rather than explain it, I found this video for you: ruclips.net/video/CyjrGgmDqq4/видео.html
Hi Chris , I found your chanel couple days and love all your videos. In this video you are using a very bulky dimmer. Can I ask why you dont use led touch swich/ dimmer 12/24 V that you can hide inside aluminium profile?
Thanks so much for watching and glad you are liking the videos! Great question! I saw a lot of different options and like you mentioned, a lot of them were very low profile. The reason I went with this one is because I knew it gave me the best chance that my wife would actually use it lol. I could have maybe got away with an led touch switch/dimmer but this dial is pretty big and it works 100% of the time and its easy to locate under the cabinet. But the good thing is, If there is something out there that I think she would use and less bulky, it should be very simple to swap it out!
Thanks so much for watching! You could for sure run the wire in the wall. Maybe check with an electrician first but I don't see why not. Also depends on if you want to go through that much work. I would maybe see if there is a good way to hide the wires around the door frame first before attempting to put things in the wall but that's just me.
Thanks so much for watching! Its been probably close to two weeks now and everything is holding up perfect. The strips and profiles are so light I really don't think they will ever fall down.
I have a galley style kitchen with cabinets on either side that I would like to add under lighting to. You mentioned that I would be able to bridge the led’s with wire to extend them. Would I be able to use an extension of wire to go up into the ceiling and down to the other side of cabinets?
looking back at this video again, Chris , do you know a way of getting cob lights “smart” as in being able to integrate into home assistant and have dim control? thanks!
Thanks so much for watching buddy! I still have taken the home assistant plunge yet so I'm afraid I'm not much help on this. I am a huge fan of this channel and I would maybe reach out to him as he knows a ton about Home Assistant! www.youtube.com/@makeitworktech
Just did this. Used a controller between power supply and strip lights. I used a Zooz zwave rgbw controller, overkill I know, but wifi and zigbee also available, various suppliers. Using automation in HA the strips come on morning and evening at 6%. Also added a photoresistor in kitchen and an automation reads the sensor and turns the strips on/off based on the reading between sunrise and sunset. First tested using a Aqara button then tested with Google Home and both worked. With google saying "turn strip lights on/off at x%" but prob. won't use this. And thank you Chris for the excellent videos.
Questions please: I have very small kitchen with small island. I have a wall switch that powers the old fluorescent lights (3) already wired with 14 AWG Romex in place. Assuming I can sort out all of the romex - can I pigtail off the DC side to run top of cab lights with the 18 gauge R/B silicone wire? I need to run R/B wire thru pantry maybe 10 ft of R/B wire added. Total of 30 feet of which 20 ft is strips. One power supply okay?
Hi Chris, First of all, I love you videos and tutorials. I was hoping that you could help me I did some under cabinet lightning using 24v COB LED strips 16ft in length with a 24v 45w power dimmer driver, pretty much the same you used or least the same brand. My issue is that the driver and the first strip connect to it gets super hot after about 30 mins of use. Is this normal or is there something I can do help with the high temperatures?
So Chris, I have to ask and please forgive me if I ma prying. How is the bedroom lighting working out? Did you get your new furniture yet? e got our bed and new mattress pretty quickly after our move in date but our dining room furniture still hasn't come yet. Did this under cabinet lighting grow out of a desire to do something for your wife that she would really like? What does she think of using the dial to turn on the lights versus some type of automation for it to turn on and off. My wife prefers automation or to use her voice to turn on the lighting I have put in the new house so far.
Hey Will! Good to hear from you! We actually got our furniture a couple weeks ago and just still working at getting the room set up. Its been a busy summer and trying to spend as much time outside with the kids so bedroom stuff is not very high on the priority list! But I'm planning on doing a quick update video on the bedroom as well as making a nice place to hide the power supply unit and esp board so hopefully I'll get around to that soon! So my wife will simply not use anything if its voice controlled or app controlled lol. Sounds like the opposite of your wife! And I do admit that having the simple turn dial is very handy and something that my wife loves and uses every day. The lighting under the cabinet is something I've always wanted to do and something I knew my wife would like so I'm glad it worked out for me to finally do it. I was debating on if I should use rgbic lights and have the options of different colors but in the end I just went with the simple warm white cob led strips and It really does brighten up the place and looks nice!
Hey Chris, Great video! I am doing a similar setup, just wondering if you had ideas about different brightness from the same strip? I would like a bright 5000k to 6000k for a "working" space and a warm 2700k for ambient light. I also have 3 seperate "house" lines of power operated from one switch. I'm assumeing I need 3 seperate power ac-dc converters? As far as dimming goes, can I use 1 wifi dimmer switch "in wall"?
lots of people put a receptacle in the cabinet, or on the very top of the cabinet above the existing one and put the transformer near it. Its a straight down fish
Since a lot of people have microwaves in this general area, I wonder if you can wire it to the outlet that uses instead or is that one for much higher voltage appliances?
Hi Chris - Going to attempt this soon. Can you tell me why I should go to the extra work of adding the light strips in the channel versus just sticking them to the underside of the cabinet? Thanks and Great Job - It looks awesome!!!
Love the video -- Do you think GS Power Marine Wire - 100 Ft, 14 Gauge AWG Electrical Boat Wiring - Oxygen-Free Insulated Black and Red Sheathed Copper would work instead of the 16?
You seem to be reading my mind. I just purchased a few of these items from your last video of COB lighting to do this very thing in my kitchen! What were the little white dot looking things you were using for cable control?
@@ChrisMaherDIY Finished my cabinets. the wife loves them and I had to find another solution for cable management. I could not get the thumb tacks to stick. Went with a 3M cable management clip in white. I only added the dimmer switch but I may add the motion sensor later. For my first time soldering, your video helped greatly along with a few others. Really happy with the DIY walkthrough since it was everything I needed to get my lights to look just as good. Thank you!
Simpler way and to assure that all wires are hidden; including power wires was to place electrical outlet inside one of the cabinets. I did this way and the installation looks more appealing.
Instead of running a power cord from the cabinet down to an outlet on the backsplash, it would be a simple matter to extend power from the backsplash outlet up to an outlet inside the cabinet. Makes for a cleaner install
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Hi Chris,
Great job on both the installation and the video. Thanks for that.
I have a few questions about a similar job for my kitchen. Should I post them here or can I email/ message you?
@ugh635 still up and still used every single day!
I did use aluminum tracks though. I go over the ones I used in the video.
@@ChrisMaherDIY i had seen what looked like you placing the LEDs on the bottom of the cabinet directly. It was a little noisy on this end with some road construction going on outside. So I incorrectly assumed. But saw them at the end when you showed the wiring. That's why I deleted my comment. 😁
Electrician here, install a outlet inside your cabinet right above your outlet. Just use a cut in box. That way you dont have the ugly cable showing. You could easily fish a wire straight up and into your cut in box. No wires showing. Just my 2 cents
In some places (like Canada), the codes does not allow an electrical box inside a cabinet. For example a microwave will have an outlet on the wall and an opening in the cabinet
We had our electrician add 2 switched outlets on either side of our kitchen, one in the upper cabinet, one in the lower cabinet. Planning to hide wiring behind woodwork and in cabinets, but we are installing toekick and under cabinet lighting. They're on a 3 way switch next to the big light switch at both entrances.
Could also hide an outlet on the top of the cabinets. Surface mount it to the top of the cabinets and the trim on top will hide it.
This is an awesome video. I did this exact project about 10 yrs ago in my previous home. The products have upgraded a bit since then, so this is a great start for me doing it again in my current home. Thank you!
Tips from my last install: Put the LEDs 1-2" away from the front lip of the cabinet underside. Use the face frame edge to top the light juuuust before the counter edge and prevent the light from spilling over the counter onto the floor. This will prevent ugly shadow lines on the floor and cabinet fronts. Also by putting the LEDs on the front edge they will illuminate the fronts of objects on your counter and produce a softer illumination of the backsplash. It's also harder to see directly when crouched down. An angled track can also change the distribution of the light. I carved a notch out of the cabinet bottoms instead of a hole through their joints. This produces a seamless line and light when seen in the reflection of the counter. The COB "dotless" LED strips are 100% worth it especially seen in a shiny countertop reflection. Keeping the last LED from running right up against the wall on the end of a bank of cabinets also dulls the "hot spot" effect.
I prefer to use the controllers that take a dimming 120V source as the dimmer control for the 12-24V output. This means a handsome dimmer-paddle switch (e.g. Lutron) is a one-touch control for all aspects of the light (except programming obv.).
Great suggestions! Thanks for sharing 🙂
I would love to see some of your work if available all great tips
Thanks so much for watching and for all the great advice! I appreciate the thought that went into writing this. Thanks so much buddy!
I second this!
What controller do you speak of? I am just looking into this project but I’d love to have the LED lights controlled via a regular light switch with dimmer. Thanks
this is exactly what I did the first thing after buying my house, it makes a huge difference. IMO every kitchen should come with this
100% agree. After it was done, the only thing I was mad about was why I didn't do it sooner. Makes such a big difference! Thanks for watching!
for added effect i also ran the same lighting under the bottom cabinets in the kickboard space so you get a floor wash. Works really well. I concealed my power supplies on the top of my cabinets and ran the cabling behind the cabinets. You can use a fused spur to permanently wire in and get rid of the ugle black cable in your install. Works like a charm. Nice vid
Thanks so much for watching and glad yours turned out what sounds like way better than mine! Was it tricky doing the fused spur? I've never done something like that but if not too difficult, might be worth doing to get rid of the black cord!
@@ChrisMaherDIY easy almost like wiring up a light switch they are used a lot in rvs
Would love to see pictures!
I think by far the best video on LEDs for DIYers
Thank you for this video. I just used your instructions and the equipment in your description to give my cabinets a beautiful face lift. I appreciated the help!
I'm a couple minutes into the video but just had to come down here and say thank you. What a time to be alive with so much knowledge at our fingertips
You are very welcome and thanks so much for watching and the kind words! I appreciate the support buddy!
Only if you honor Jesus Christ.
There's a lot of great information in this video. I'm going to replace some old florescent fixtures under my cabinets: this video definitely made my project easier.
Been wanting to add under cabinet light to my house for some time. Finally got around to working up the nerve to learn to solder and got the remainder of the items. Just recreated this in my kitchen and love how it turned out. Appreciate the great videos and tutorials. Keep up the good work. God Bless!
Thanks, Chris, great video. FYI any 120VAC connections/splices must be made in an approved box.
Well done sir. The under the cabinet lights are a huge improvement.
Can't wait to knock this one out. Only suggestion I can make is put a junction box in the cabinet and run some romex from the plug you used up into the cabinet. Then you don't need to cut all the connectors and all the wires are hidden inside. Great job, cheers!
Thats for sure the best way to do it. I was not quite confident enough to try doing it that way but at some point I might convert things to that! Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment!
This is awesome! I need to replace our 19 year old halogen under cabinet lights and this is perfect. I really like the aluminum channel and diffuser.
Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment! Glad you liked the video!
I recently redid my kitchen., I considered a strip type that was action controlled. I did not want the lights to come on and off all the time as I have a dog that comes and goes in our kitchen at night. Instead, I used the stick-on tab lights and put them under my cabinets. They are connected to my electric light switch. These were inexpensive and work beautifully for us. Remove the protective paper and stick them to the bottom of the cabinet-easy/peasy!
Thanks so much for watching and that's awesome! It really makes a huge difference and i'm sad I didn't do this sooner. Thanks for the suggestions!
Could you please elaborate on this? What products did you use and how did you connect them to the switch? Thanks!
wow so impressive! I found myself saying, I could do that! I'm a total nube with electrical stuff, so thanks so much for sharing.
I just realized I responded on your pinned comment.
To hide my PSUs for my kitchen, i set 3 cabinets (1 upper and 2 lower) with outlets inside so that i could hide them. I'm still remodeling the kitchen, so I have not installed the LEDs yet. But they will be controlled with WLED.
Granted that I had the luxury of getting to the studs. I did that because I had to fix some other issues, too. But you can easily run an outlet into an existing cabinet with the correct tools.
I think I will add an outlet to the inside of my cabinets first:) thanks for the great Videos!
Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment! That would be the best way of doing this! I just was not confident enough to try doing that lol.
This is nice man! I know that dealing with cameras and whatnot while doing the work can be a bit annoying, so appreciate you taking the time to share!
I hate to be that guy, but I gotta say it: it’s probably okay for the low voltage, but that “exposed” Wago in the cabinet coming straight from 120v can be super dangerous man. If someone pulls it either by hand or say a plate touches it just right, it could be bad bad news. Just get an electrical box, do the connection inside of it, put a cover plate, and call it the day. There are metal boxes in which you can screw to the back of the cabinet (make sure to use knockout connectors and ground the box if you go with the metal box).
I’m not doing this to annoy you. It’s truly coming out of concern for you and whoever else is in your house.
I’ve been swallowing your videos today. Really appreciate you!
Sorry for the long comment.
Thanks so much for watching! Thanks for the safety tip as well as I appreciate you looking out! I'll for sure look into that! I'm for sure not an expert so I'm always thankful for people who are more knowledgeable than me who take the time to comment! Hope you have a great day!
Excellent demonstration. I remodeled my kitchen three years ago and for the past, about 2-years, I been trying to get a great idea how I’m bridging everything and incorporating a possible dimmer/ Bluetooth etc. thanks for this because it answered every question!
You are very welcome and thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment!
I love LEDs and LED Projects and I am so happy I’ve found your channel ❤
Great video and filled with info that will save me hours of trials and errors -thank u!
Great work chief, great explanation. Advice: next time install a outlet in one of the cabinets to plug in the lights.
They also make single wago connectors to extend single wires, (splice)
Thanks so much for watching! I hope to at some point do that! It doesn't sound very hard but a little more work then I was wanting to do at the time. And I recently found out about those single wago connectors, purchased some and love them! Thanks for taking the time to comment!
I have been considering doing this but I was going to use a diagonal/corner diffuser and mount it at the corner of the front of the cabinet, between the bottom of the cabinet and the front lip, so that it is completely hidden from sight and you should also avoid the strip being visible in the reflection on the countertops.
Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment! That's for sure a good idea! Let me know how things turn out if you try doing it! I'd love to see the finished results!
@ben did you do this? I'm wondering if you still had a shadow line on the countertop. I've been researching the answer to that question and haven't found it yet.
@@Pipsquacky I haven’t yet but if you place it there, even without a diffuser, you shouldn’t be able to distinguish individual LEDs or reflections.
Chris, thanks, for some good tips, and all the links help out too, It's nice to see people take pride in what they do.
Thanks so much and you are very welcome! Thanks for watching buddy!
Once I buy a house I will probably rewatch all these videos again. Totally something I would do.
I think I would have tried to find a flat plug so the plug isn't sticking out to much.
Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment! Glad you are liking the videos! That's something I actually thought of doing! I still might but have not spend much time looking for a flat plug. I also think a white cord might blend in better. So a flat, white cord would be ideal lol. Thanks again for watching and for the great suggestion!
Hey Chris, I'm based in UK and have been watching and following your channel for a while. I'm taking inspiration from you and will be doing my own room at home soon as I'm buying my first house.
Thank you for showing us how easy this work is. And your links are a godsend haha
So big up from Liverpool UK
Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment! I appreciate the love my friend! Good luck on your projects and congrats on the new home!!
I really love this channel!😍
Thanks so much for the kind words and for watching! Appreciate the support and glad you are enjoying some of the videos!
Very nice job & you gave a great presentation of it. I would have done few things differently, but it's a nice DIY. One suggestion if I might add is to just use the flexible LED strip lighting with 3M self adhesive backing. When I remodeled our kitchen 8 years ago that's what I used. I stuck the strips to the inside edge of the front lip of our cabinets which puts the lights completely out of sight and the light strips point toward the backsplash instead of the countertop. They still light the entire countertop and there are no shadows on the counters or the backsplash. We have glossy quarts countertops & there are no reflections from the lights at all. Since I did a complete kitchen remodel, I rewired the entire room at that time & added 8 circuits. This allowed me to add 2 switched outlets inside my cabinets so I have the 2 power supplies & dimmers inside the cabinets & out of sight. Then all I had to do was drill holes down through the outside corners to feed my light strips. Just like @frederf3227 mentioned, I also cut a notch in the cabinet bottoms in order to run my strip lights straight through from one cabinet to the next with no splicing. Our cabinet lights run 24-7 except when we leave home for more than a day or two. They have been lit almost continually since March of 2015 and still look like the day I installed them.
Thanks so much for watching and glad you liked the video! Thanks for taking the time to comment and for all the great recommendations! If I knew what I was doing, it sounds like I would probably do things pretty much exactly as you did! Nice job and crazy how its still going perfect almost 8 years later!!
I went and bought the battery operated lights that have different colors with remote. Very pleased with them once I put energizer batteries int them.
Thats great! Glad they work great with batteries!
Great video! The power supply you suggested is out of stock 😢is there another one you can suggest? Thank you
Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment! Here is another good one! amzn.to/3Rxl4x5
Thank you for sharing this! I did my own install a while back but the connector+LED combo I used has the lights flickering due to poor connections. I'm taking all your recommendations an ordering everything today, can't wait to see how it comes out!
I finally got around to doing this last weekend and it came out great! Thanks again for all the info.
Very, very excellent video ! Especially the links for the products you used. Thank you for making it.
Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment! Glad you like the video!
If you counter plug wire is dropped from the top you can just install a new plug inside the upper cabinet. Then you can just drop the wires straight out of the upper cabinet. Toe kick lighting would be pretty sweet too.
Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment! That is for sure a great idea!! I'm sure down the road I could try doing this and would not be too difficult to convert!
The problem with the low profile stripping is you can see the tracks if you are sitting down at your dining table and the bare lights are not too attractive. I prefer to use angle strips which provide a more finished look and hide the lights as well as connections better.
Thanks so much for watching and for the suggestion! That does sound like a great way to go! Thanks!
or use high density strips or use a diffusor\
but I find the objection a bit silly - after all you do not STARE at an incandescent light bulb
Hi Chris, another top video and tutorial. Them WAGO'S can be a godsend can't they!.
I hope you are all well 🇺🇸🇬🇧
Thanks as always buddy!! They are the best and have never let me down lol! Hope your doing good as well!
@@ChrisMaherDIY
Getting their pal, plodding on and doing my best, it's all we can ever do 🙂 🇺🇸🇬🇧
I only bought one under cabinet light from IKEA and placed it on top of the fridge facing up and it still makes a huge difference for our kitchen. But if I decide to buy more to place under the cabinets the command strips are going to be my only option as I live in a rental and can’t make holes on the cabinets.
Thanks so much for watching! Yeah, command strips are amazing. They are still holding strong!
I did this with low profile led puck lights 10 years ago. The only difference was the hard wire into the transformer. What I did was buy a outlet and switch combo. Fish a small wire behind the wall where the plug is and run it into the cabinet above. added a junction box and tied it into the transformer. Now the light is controled by a switch and you still have 1 outlet remaining. Now with the motion switch it's much better you wont need a outlet switch combo anymore.
Thanks so much for watching and for the great ideas and breakdown of how you did it. Sounds like a very professional install vs my diy attempt lol. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Mr Maher, you are amazing. such a detailed and well explained video. keep up the good work. learning a lot from you. thanks.
It was a little flimsier than I expected. I had to add a 2x2 piece of wood to the bottom on the rear side in order to stabilize it better ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXTh-lz-8W6GcB219vTLp27-MxbZYObBX . It is also starting to bow a little at the outer wall ( I've had it up for about 6 months), I've already had a shelf tumble down because of the bow and the fact that the little shelf brackets are quite short. I went out to home depot and got some longer ones so that the shelves don't tumble down again. Overall, it looks very nice for the price and it holds a lot ( I use it as a pantry). I am very satisfied with my purchase. I just strongly suggest reinforcing it before putting it up.
Thank you for the video. I plan to source this project from an outlet that is inside a cabinet on top of my over the range microwave, can I add a switch before the dimmer assembly to turn led strip lights on / off and then use the dimmer to increase / decrease light intensity? If I can what switch with housing do you recommend?
I did the same about 6yrs ago with regular led strips but I do think it's time to replace them with these as they are starting to go bad. I would recommend to anyone to place the strips closer to the front of the cabinets as it won't create shadows on things you're using on the counter... not all the way to the front as the front cabinet lip will create shadows as well. I place mine about 2 in from the front lip.
Thanks so much for watching and for sharing your advice! That's great to know about best placement! Thanks again!
@james k when u say the front, do you mean toward the door, or close to wall??
Outstanding Job!!!! You kitchen looks amazing!!!!! I’ll be installing my lights soon (after new glass backsplash is installed) You really simplified things for me 😀
Very clean and PROFESSIONAL install!
Thanks so much! Glad you liked it! Its not perfect but for sure good enough for my standards. Thanks!
Another option is to add in a new outlet hidden at the top above the cabinets for power. Should be really easy to fish tape Romex and use a new work box and have everything truly hidden.
That is a great Idea. I don't really have any experience doing that but I'm sure after a couple RUclips video's I would feel confident enough to give it a try! Thanks so much for watching and for the great suggestion!
@@ChrisMaherDIY or even run the power from they light above the sink and just and outlet in that spot.
I was wondering when you’d do these. Love the video. I’m moving in a couple weeks, but renting.. So I can’t drill but I’ll definitely be doing some under cabinet lighting at the new place. 👍
Thanks as always for the support! Yeah this one is actually practical as the additional light really does make a big difference in the kitchen! For sure ways you can do this without drilling! Just might be a little bit messier but you can get pretty creative hiding wires just using 3m removable adhesive!
So Cool 👍
I have seen these LED strips with adhesive tape. Why not simply use them and avoid the Al strips?
Thanks so much for watching! You could certainly do that and it would probably work just fine. The aluminum does help with heat dispersion which should help extend the life of the LEDs and the sticky tape on the led strip does stick better to the aluminum then it does to the wood/paint.
@@ChrisMaherDIY good points. Appreciate your time 👍
I would have used a right angle white power cord for the outlet but thanks for the video. I would love under cabinet lights myself.
Thanks so much for watching! That is actually a great idea. I might have to swap things out! Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Looks good! I think I’m going to do most of the install like that but add an ALEKSA capable plug so I can voice control dim level. I’m lazy. LOL
Another great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us Chris!
Thanks as always for the support! Appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment!
Interesting you choose channels and then double sided tape considering Cobb strips have a built in diffuser. Felt like an unneeded step but it looks great 😃.
Also surprised you didn't run an outlet into the cabinet to hide that black wire sticking out from under the cabinet.
Thank you for this video. You've got my ideas churning for my kitchen now
Thanks so much for watching! Yeah there are for sure different ways to do this. It seems like people do recommend the aluminum channels to help with heat dispersion to increase the longevity of the leds. You also certainly don't have to use the diffuser itself either. It does soften the brightness a little bit and if your sitting at our dinner table you can see a little bit of the leds and the diffuser helps make that not as harsh. I would love to run an outlet into the cabinet but I feel like I don't have the skill to pull something like that off yet. Is it pretty easy to do?
@@ChrisMaherDIY is is easier to run outlet than it is to solder tiny strands of wire. You would be a natural at adding an outlet. Especially since you have an outlet so close to your cabinet already. Little dry wall patch, some sanding & paint & you're golden.
@@JWard2 I'll have to try that at some point especially since you say its pretty easy!
@@ChrisMaherDIY hardest part (at least for me) is patching the dry wall, sanding it, then painting it.
The wiring is easy 🙂
COB + AL is good to keep the lines straight, not sure how effective is it as the CCT BTF lights I’ve been using don’t produce much heat, milky diffuser definitely affects the brightness, I would keep it for over the counter application as it would protect from moisture, steam etc, other option is to use the IP67 version as they are transparent and provide protection
Great video. I am in the construction phase and have had an electrician run 14/3 to each under cabinet location. I did't know what kind of lights i would be using when they ran the wires. how would you connect the 14/3 to the COB lights you have shown? i believe each 14/3 will be coming out in the middle of the cabinet rather than to one side.
Thanks so much for watching! I would double check with an electrician but I think you would only need 2 of those 3 wires. The ground I don't think would be necessary. I'm also not sure what voltage would be coming out of those so for sure double check that to see if they are compatible!
Thank you for your video. It is excellent information and well done. What do you connect the ground wire to from the plug that goes inside the cabinet?
Chris we want to put under cabinet lighting as well as cabinet lighting in three cabinets with glass doors. We have power inside the cabinets already to be used from a wall switch. Do you have any suggestions or ideas on the best way to accomplish that task? I could send pics of my kitchen cabinets if you’d like.
Thanks so much
Hi, Chris! I really love your video! Just have one question, I have 2 windows in my kitchen between the cabinets. And I see you use one switch to control two separate sections of strips lights. How do you connect these two separate strips? How do you hide the wire when there is a window?
Great looking installation, thank you for sharing!
Thank you so much for watching and taking the time to comment! I appreciate the support!
Hi, Chris, I think I followed the steps you described which are quite clear, thank you! My issue is that the light strip is flashing on and off rapidly. I want solid on for under cabinet lights. I don't have a controller. How can I stop the flashing and get solid on? Thanks, again.
I’m having the exact same issue, so it means the power supply is overloaded. but in my case, I only connected 2 20” strips so far. One strip was fine and 2 it started blinking. I have the linked 72w 24V power supply. According to the led spec, 1 meter of led strip is only 12w so my only guess is that the connecting wires I got are wrong? But they are standard 18awg silicone wires, Idk what went wrong.
Have you fixed your issue yet?
I found my mistake, I got a 12v lightstrip (I wanted the 6000K light) rather than the 24v one suggested by Chris. Once I got a 12V power supply, it all worked. I used the LED strip connectors rather than soldering the connections. I found the connectors to be somewhat finicky and now understand why Chris soldered the joints. Good luck.
Thanks for your reply, unfortunately both of my led strip and power supply label say 24V so that’s not my problem. I also switched to soldering today but the 12 inch second strip even by itself still blinks, I just ordered a 200W new power supply to see if that resolves it so I would know if it is the power supply issue
Thank you for the informational video! Is the aluminum strip necessary for the led strip? Or can I skip the aluminum strip?
Do you have any feedback for these high density strips regarding heat and how heat affects their lifetime? I really like the idea of spotless lighting, whether by high density LEDS, diffusers, or a combination of the two, but am concerned about unneeded heat. Thanks.
Nice ideias ever... Great vídeo Bro.
Thanks so much buddy!! Glad you enjoyed!!
Thanks for your inspiration! Until now I only used Govee LEDs, but now I will test out COB LEDs too. The LED density is much higher and easier to work with.
Your voice is also very smooth to listen :D
Thanks so much for watching and I appreciate the kind words! I'm glad you are liking the videos and I 100% agree! COB LEDS are really nice for certain projects that dont need all the color!
This is a very good job to show us
Loved this!! Will definitely try this out!
Thanks so much for watching! Glad you liked the video!
Great, informative tutorial, thanks Chris!
You are very welcome and thanks so much for watching!
I like it. I'm going to do this. I also have a half brain idea that it might be cool to run a led strip underneath the countertops - if the channels are thin enough to stay fairly hidden.
Yeah that would be a great idea under the countertops! I should have tried doing that. They for sure are thin enough to blend in! Great idea!!
Love the video, the only thing I don’t quite understand is how to connect the wires through the gap where the kitchen window / sink is?
Can that COB light be hardwired to a switch? Having a hard time finding out what kind of AC to DC adapter I would need? I'm planning to hook it up to a dimmer switch.
Thanks so much for watching! That's a great question. I was having a hard time figuring out that as well which is why I just went the plug rout. I'm sure its something that can be done (and probably easily) but unfortunately I do not know how. Maybe someone else reading the comments might know and can chime in!
@@ChrisMaherDIY yeah that'd be great. I have over a thousand hours of electrical, so I know how to do it, I'm just unsure of what is the most compatible. Thanks for responding.
@@hancockhale You should be able to get a regular dimmer switch that is compatible with LEDs. The switch I got for mine is a Lutron. I'll be adding a two gang box and putting the dimmer next to an existing switch. 120V house power to the dimmer, dimmer to the controller which converts it, 12V controller power to LED strips. You'll just need a controller suitable for your project, which is the step I'm trying to figure out now as well.
@@MikeHoncho8D thanks! That was helpful. Are you planning to hide the controller in the cab or under it once you poke it out of the wall? I'm doing a similar thing, but I already have a two gang box there so I am just going to make them into stacked switches.
@@hancockhale We don’t have cabinets that go to the ceiling, and they also have crown around the top, so it creates a recessed area for the controller and the over cabinet strips to sit without being visible. If I didn’t have that space above, I’d probably mount it in the cabinet somewhere out of the way.
Thanks for the great videos - Im having trouble sorting out several of the materials i need to order- When I go to amazon there are both 12 and 24 volt transformers- from my car LED work we always use 12V -, so which one? Also when I go to the link you provided for the COB strips- many options for lighting- did you use the natural white strip? and once again 12 or 24V?
Thanks so much for watching! So you can do 12 or 24 volt but you just need to make sure you are then using the correct 12 or 24 volt led strips. I used the warm white ones since that's the one my wife liked best. I personally probably would have gone with the neutral but that's just me!
Wow, everything came out so nice! Love your channel and how well explained your videos are!
Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment! Appreciate the support and glad your liking the videos!
Thanks for your video, it was very helpful. Question: I have 12V AC coming out of the wall. Do you recommend a AC to DC converter for the 12V DC COB lights and if so, could you recommend a product.
Great job. I’d just extend the outlet and add another one up into the cabinet and make sure nothing is visible.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! That would for sure be the rout to go! At some point I may do that but would have to learn how to do it first lol.
@@ChrisMaherDIY Ha, it’s super easy. Will take 30 mins once you’ve got all you need, esp if you stay in the same stud bay and just go straight up above your current outlet inside the cabinets. Rather than explain it, I found this video for you: ruclips.net/video/CyjrGgmDqq4/видео.html
@@sliewehr thanks so much! I'll take a look at it for sure!
I'm gonna DO this!! Thanks!
Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment! Appreciate the support and good luck!
That looks NNNIIIIIIIIIICCCCCCCEEEEEE.
Thanks so much for watching! Glad you liked the project!
Hi Chris ,
I found your chanel couple days and love all your videos.
In this video you are using a very bulky dimmer.
Can I ask why you dont use led touch swich/ dimmer 12/24 V that you can hide inside aluminium profile?
Thanks so much for watching and glad you are liking the videos! Great question! I saw a lot of different options and like you mentioned, a lot of them were very low profile. The reason I went with this one is because I knew it gave me the best chance that my wife would actually use it lol. I could have maybe got away with an led touch switch/dimmer but this dial is pretty big and it works 100% of the time and its easy to locate under the cabinet. But the good thing is, If there is something out there that I think she would use and less bulky, it should be very simple to swap it out!
Looks amazing! Excellent job!
Chris how do I get from 1 cabinet to another with a doorway between
Is it okay to run the wire in the wall?
Thanks Rich
Thanks so much for watching! You could for sure run the wire in the wall. Maybe check with an electrician first but I don't see why not. Also depends on if you want to go through that much work. I would maybe see if there is a good way to hide the wires around the door frame first before attempting to put things in the wall but that's just me.
Thank you, another question the power source you recommended is not available a 40 watt or 120 is available would either one be suitable?
Make sure you give us all an update on how the command strips are holding up! GREAT VIDEO BTW :)
Thanks so much for watching! Its been probably close to two weeks now and everything is holding up perfect. The strips and profiles are so light I really don't think they will ever fall down.
@@ChrisMaherDIY Outstanding! I am putting this very thing up in our backhouse/studio apartment this weekend
Thank you for another great video
Thanks as always! Appreciate the comment buddy!
I have a galley style kitchen with cabinets on either side that I would like to add under lighting to. You mentioned that I would be able to bridge the led’s with wire to extend them. Would I be able to use an extension of wire to go up into the ceiling and down to the other side of cabinets?
looking back at this video again, Chris , do you know a way of getting cob lights “smart” as in being able to integrate into home assistant and have dim control? thanks!
Thanks so much for watching buddy! I still have taken the home assistant plunge yet so I'm afraid I'm not much help on this. I am a huge fan of this channel and I would maybe reach out to him as he knows a ton about Home Assistant! www.youtube.com/@makeitworktech
Just did this. Used a controller between power supply and strip lights. I used a Zooz zwave rgbw controller, overkill I know, but wifi and zigbee also available, various suppliers. Using automation in HA the strips come on morning and evening at 6%. Also added a photoresistor in kitchen and an automation reads the sensor and turns the strips on/off based on the reading between sunrise and sunset. First tested using a Aqara button then tested with Google Home and both worked. With google saying "turn strip lights on/off at x%" but prob. won't use this. And thank you Chris for the excellent videos.
Great video. Thanks for the tips
Thanks so much for watching and you are very welcome!
Questions please: I have very small kitchen with small island. I have a wall switch that powers the old fluorescent lights (3) already wired with 14 AWG Romex in place. Assuming I can sort out all of the romex - can I pigtail off the DC side to run top of cab lights with the 18 gauge R/B silicone wire? I need to run R/B wire thru pantry maybe 10 ft of R/B wire added. Total of 30 feet of which 20 ft is strips. One power supply okay?
Hi Chris,
First of all, I love you videos and tutorials. I was hoping that you could help me I did some under cabinet lightning using 24v COB LED strips 16ft in length with a 24v 45w power dimmer driver, pretty much the same you used or least the same brand. My issue is that the driver and the first strip connect to it gets super hot after about 30 mins of use. Is this normal or is there something I can do help with the high temperatures?
Well executed Impressive!
Thanks so much buddy! Glad you liked the project!
Make another outlet behind the cabinet , to get rid of plug
@Chris - Would you do an updated version of this tutorial with the newer LED strips available for Govee or Aqara?
So Chris, I have to ask and please forgive me if I ma prying. How is the bedroom lighting working out? Did you get your new furniture yet? e got our bed and new mattress pretty quickly after our move in date but our dining room furniture still hasn't come yet. Did this under cabinet lighting grow out of a desire to do something for your wife that she would really like? What does she think of using the dial to turn on the lights versus some type of automation for it to turn on and off. My wife prefers automation or to use her voice to turn on the lighting I have put in the new house so far.
Hey Will! Good to hear from you! We actually got our furniture a couple weeks ago and just still working at getting the room set up. Its been a busy summer and trying to spend as much time outside with the kids so bedroom stuff is not very high on the priority list! But I'm planning on doing a quick update video on the bedroom as well as making a nice place to hide the power supply unit and esp board so hopefully I'll get around to that soon! So my wife will simply not use anything if its voice controlled or app controlled lol. Sounds like the opposite of your wife! And I do admit that having the simple turn dial is very handy and something that my wife loves and uses every day. The lighting under the cabinet is something I've always wanted to do and something I knew my wife would like so I'm glad it worked out for me to finally do it. I was debating on if I should use rgbic lights and have the options of different colors but in the end I just went with the simple warm white cob led strips and It really does brighten up the place and looks nice!
Whats the reason you choose 24V and not 12V ?
Hey Chris,
Great video! I am doing a similar setup, just wondering if you had ideas about different brightness from the same strip? I would like a bright 5000k to 6000k for a "working" space and a warm 2700k for ambient light.
I also have 3 seperate "house" lines of power operated from one switch.
I'm assumeing I need 3 seperate power ac-dc converters?
As far as dimming goes, can I use 1 wifi dimmer switch "in wall"?
?
lots of people put a receptacle in the cabinet, or on the very top of the cabinet above the existing one and put the transformer near it. Its a straight down fish
That for sure would be the best way to go about doing it! I might have to look into that. Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment!
Since a lot of people have microwaves in this general area, I wonder if you can wire it to the outlet that uses instead or is that one for much higher voltage appliances?
Did you use the 6000K option?
Love the vid
I ended up using the warm white 3000k option! Glad I went with this since at night time its a nice warm glow coming from the kitchen!
Hi Chris - Going to attempt this soon. Can you tell me why I should go to the extra work of adding the light strips in the channel versus just sticking them to the underside of the cabinet? Thanks and Great Job - It looks awesome!!!
Love the video -- Do you think GS Power Marine Wire - 100 Ft, 14 Gauge AWG Electrical Boat Wiring - Oxygen-Free Insulated Black and Red Sheathed Copper would work instead of the 16?
You seem to be reading my mind. I just purchased a few of these items from your last video of COB lighting to do this very thing in my kitchen! What were the little white dot looking things you were using for cable control?
Thats awesome! Let me know how yours turns out! Those were just little white thumb tacks i found at I think target. Similar to this: amzn.to/3cYhX12
@@ChrisMaherDIY Finished my cabinets. the wife loves them and I had to find another solution for cable management. I could not get the thumb tacks to stick. Went with a 3M cable management clip in white. I only added the dimmer switch but I may add the motion sensor later. For my first time soldering, your video helped greatly along with a few others. Really happy with the DIY walkthrough since it was everything I needed to get my lights to look just as good. Thank you!
Chris will the FCOB connectors fit inside the channel?
Thanks Rich
Thanks so much for watching and great question. If I remember correctly, I believe they will.
Great video Chris!
Simpler way and to assure that all wires are hidden; including power wires was to place electrical outlet inside one of the cabinets.
I did this way and the installation looks more appealing.
Instead of running a power cord from the cabinet down to an outlet on the backsplash, it would be a simple matter to extend power from the backsplash outlet up to an outlet inside the cabinet. Makes for a cleaner install