This is by far the most concise & professional installation I have seen presented here on YT for under cabinet lighting. I'm a retired electrician who has installed quite a few of these myself and it is encouraging to see someone present this in way that is both easy to understand, yet done well.
I too am not quite a beginner but not an electrician but you hit on many of the questions I was having when starting to plan... I have a 9' run a 22' run and a 20' run.. gonna have them all on the same dimmer switch and hopefully it will all go together.. didn't know and wasn't addressed if you need a dimmable power supply if you have a dimmer... and if not what happens? also can I use speaker wire? 16/2... I look forward to getting all the materials and putting it all together.. Awesome video and great instruction... If you haven't seen it already two resources I really liked ( but couldn't quite follow yet...) ruclips.net/video/Umo6jKLfwsQ/видео.htmlsi=hBJN_EE5tFD-7Ij1 and ruclips.net/video/KbbKAxnpCQQ/видео.htmlsi=mPULdtNjWAD2IGMQ Hope it helps someone..
Wow, I wish all instructional videos were like this. Simple, to the point and most of all 100% how you should actually do it. Having been in Audio / Visual installation, interior rehab and currently an Industrial Electrician I can say that you did everything exactly the way I would do it. Actually you did some things better than I would do it, sometimes I get cheap.
Dude - thanks for showing the LED driver here and how to set it up. NO ONE else actually shows how to use your basic wall switch to hook these up. I'm using your Amazon links and you have a new subscriber. Thanks!
You would be amazed by how difficult it is to find a simple explanation of DIY LED wiring. Most videos are manufacturers telling you how to use their kits, and text descriptions from distributors like Bird Dog assume you already know the parts and where you should put them. This is the first practical example I've found, and it's really helped me put the pieces together. One touch I loved was showing your struggles with the outlet box. That's the sort of situational info that is actually very important to a project, but that every DIY video in the world leaves out because it's assumed to be too specific. So, thank you!
I've watched a lot of these "LED Cabinet and/or LED Niche lighting" How-To videos seeking information and this one was the most complete, answered all my questions, was easy to follow and all without unnecessary technical detail or annoying background music. Perfect! Thank you! -TIP to anyone considering doing this... If you can solder as shown at 5:33, it's a better option than using the click latch "locking connectors" which tend to be hit or miss in regards to getting a perfect connection. Many times you have to latch and unlatch the connectors or wiggle the wires in order to determine which of the connectors you installed has a flaky connection and preventing your light strip from lighting.
This is one of the best how to videos I've seen for how confident I feel being able to do it first time. Only thing I would recommend to viewers is running 24 volts for longer runs like this one. It helps prevent as much voltage drop vs 12 volts
Thanks! 24 volts is definitely a good idea for longer runs, my voltage drop was well within acceptable range. I have long wire runs but the total length of the light strips for my kitchen was still pretty short
Best instructional video on the internet! I've searched this topic multiple times. Your instruction, as well as reference material and parts list is unmatched. Thank you so much.
Absolutely a freakin fantastic explanation! Thank you so much. Especially the beginning, where you laid out the parts and showed how they worked. Thanks once again.
Finally! Bill I can't begin to thank you enough for this straight-forward and simple video! I have been searching, and searching and searching for someone showing how to hard wire LED lighting strips to a wall switch and just about gave up until I stumbled upon your video. You ROCK! 🤘🏽
I would have preferred a switch with rave lighting, smoke machine and DJ air horn sound effects for my late night chef sessions, but this will work too I guess
Installed to replace a failing fluorescent fixture under my desk hutch. This fixture was easy to install and gives me the flexibility of 2 brightness levels and 3 color temperatures. Sturdy aluminum housing and slim design. Very well made.
This was exactly the inspiration I needed! I've built all sorts of LED projects, mostly automotive focused, over the years. Plus, I spent many years in low voltage world doing custom A/V, HT, automation and then into the Data Center world. We're finally about to kick off a big home reno project and our Kitchen it's getting gutted, bye bye 1971 cabinets. I was looking for a little inspiration and you nailed it, even down to having similar cabinets, colors, and the fact you've got it tied into a smart switch. Your install is very clean and reasonable for most anyone to tackle. Great job!
This is the best tutorial by far and very neat install. Thanks. Only thing missing in the description is the Aluminum Channels. I quickly added things I need on amazon using the list you compiled, but there is no info on the Aluminum Channel. Forever grateful for the education. I had a million idea how to do this, but yours is neat and professional.
This is a cool video...howvever not having a tile backsplash in place already makes it easier. You can cover up all the work with the backsplace. If you have tile in place..best option is to use wireless LED's that work with Alexa.
For sure! I experimented with running the wires without cutting holes as I know many people have existing backsplashes, even broke out an endoscope with a hook on it, but I couldn't get it to work. If the kitchen is against an interior wall, one could work from the other side but otherwise probably best to just go the route you suggested
This is probably the best install I’ve seen on RUclips. So I’m looking to do about a 50’ run of LED under cabinet lighting and I want to use a RGB smart variety. Any ideas? Most are fairly limited on run length.
Thanks! I think that armacost makes a wifi rgb controller that you can use in place of the driver I used. You'd have to use a rdg led strip instead of the white one I did. Search for Armacost ProLine Multicolor RGB + White Wi-Fi LED Controller. Let me know if this helps!
Hi, could you tap into an existing ceiling light from a dimmable switch, meaning controlling ceiling lights and under cabinet lights from the same dimmable switch ? Thanks !
Hello, I like this product. Since RUclips has changed its format, I find it difficult to get around it. Would you please tell me the name of this lighting system and where did you buy it. Thanks
It's all linked in the video description. Should be located directly under the video but will need to expand it. Likely will say show more or something like that
This video is great. Exactly what I needed. THANK YOU! When I bought the house my cabinets are already wired with halogen T10 bulbs that get really hot. I bought led replacement bulbs and then realized the power driver was AC so I need to buy what you used. Your link went to the 45 Watt but I should be able to get with by the 20 watt driver if its only for 5 1.5 watt bulbs right?
Might be a dumb question but how do you know whether the black was going on the negative screw and the red on the positive when you are installing it in the driver?
Thanks! If I were going to do a hardwire setup like the video I'd likely use the same brand as the white leds I used. In addition to the driver you'd need to add a color controller as well
This is a great video! I’ve followed all the steps, got dimmable LED strips with the same light switch but mine aren’t dimming. Any ideas on what I may have done wrong?
Very well done video … the only unclear issue I was left with is how all your led strip locations were powered? Were they Daisy chained in series or paralleled back at the 45 watt power driver? In the video you show tightening a single set of led wires onto the driver output terminals but that was before you tackled the remaining locations. I would think that each location would’ve been freed from the drive by a separate cable? This would’ve resulted in three red and black cables at your driver?
There's a short single wire going from the driver as only one would fit in the terminals on the driver. It immediately hooks up to 3 others. Each of those wires goes to a separate location
Thank you for the quick reply! I just watched the video again on my computer (big screen) and saw where you detailed the three runs coming back to the driver and wire-nutting them to the short piece of cable to allow it to terminate into the driver output. I have to commend you on your video and comment links ... it is by far the most thorough video on this that I've seen. I think you've motivated me to finally order some parts and start replacing my old fluorescent-tube undercabinet lights! I've subscribed and clicked the bell to be notified of your new videos! @@ProjectBilld
Are you able to put things in those upper cabinets or would they become visible when the lights are on? I have a similar setup but hope not to show all the stuff I store in there (thinking LED panels attached to the doors to block the visibility inside
Love the video, question real quick for you, as opposed to an adding the dimmer to an existing three way switch, is it okay to add it an outlet we have below our cabinets? I’m assuming yes as it’s under constant power
I can't speak to the electrical code in your area, but if there is constant power and adding the lights won't overload the circuit, then it should be fine
Great video! Thanks so much for taking the time to do it so well! I have a design question: I have 3 separate cabinets and will have about 13' of lights total. The cabinets are fairly close together but the driver will be located about 17 feet away from the farthest cabinet. If I do home runs from each cabinet back to the driver I will use about 45 feet of LED cable. Just wondering what would be the best approach: 1) home runs or 2) connect them in series. Also wondering if I go with the 2nd option, should I create a loop and run back to the driver on the last cabinet?
I think I follow. Since most of your distance is led lights and not wire, as long as you're under the max length of led strip for the specific leds you're using I think you'd be fine to do a straight run. It would definitely be less work that doing that than array or feedback loop configuration. Straight runs have a chance of getting dimmer at the far end but I don't think that's going to be a problem from what you've described
@@ProjectBilld To clarify, the 45 feet would be the in wall 18/2 cable. Only 13 feet of lights. I would use much less cable if I wired the light segments in series. I'm thinking the kit at Armacost with the 30 watt driver and 16' of 2700K lights would hopefully work without any noticeable difference in brightness at the end of the run.
I tried to find a dimmable driver I could hardwire first with good reviews and documentation and once I did I just went with the strip lights from the same company. Seemed to be good quality when installing and is still working well
Great video for sure,,can the dimmer work if you have a switched outlet. Planning on changing out regular switch for dimmer and use the outlet to plug in tranformer,,thx
So wiring a dimmer switch to a standard outlet is against code as you could technically plug things other than lights in to the outlet. However, there are special outlets/plugs made specifically for this. Search hdtr/ddtr outlets and rp-fdu plugs. You'd wire the dimmer switch to the lamp only side of the outlet and replace the plug end of the dimming power supply with the special plug.
I installed a dedicated outlet installed above cabinets just for driver to be hidden up there and feed wires down to calbinets,, Nothing else will be plugged in., thx for reply,,I think will be ok
Hi,,I have 9' of led tape and 40' of lead wires from driver,,armacost is saying at least 100w driver,,does that sound correct,,I was going to use 60w,,thx
No that doesn't sound correct. 9ft of strip lighting isn't much. The lead wires don't effect the wattage required for the dimmer, only voltage drop. Wattage required should be calculated using only the length of the specific strip lights you are using
That's what I thought too,,thx,,I'm going with the charts recommendations for 9ft. I talked to 2 different people there and 2 different answers,,thx again
I don't know why it would be much different. You'd have to tell me more about your island and how you plan to use the lighting for me to give a definitive answer
Great video! I bought most of the items on your material list. What would you suggest for RGBW strips? From my research, I'm seeing all of your materials with the addition of an RGBW controller tied in between the strip and driver?
Pretty good video! Couldn’t you also run all the low voltage cables to one driver so you wouldn’t need to run power to all 3 drivers? And not need to buy all 3 drivers?
I'm not sure, I never measured it while dimmed. I haven't noticed any issues with dimming them, though I do mostly keep them at full brightness since they're indirect lighting
If you used some kind of adhesive or the brackets that came with the channels to mount the aluminum channel you could probably do it this way. I drilled through the channels and mounted with screws as the brackets that came with them were terrible so the channels had to go up first
Nice. I'm assuming one could daisy chain from end to end of the different LED strips if that were easier? I have total access down to studs. And you kept mentioning "LED cable". What wire are you using there, gauge and type?
The wire should be linked in the video description. Don't see why you couldn't daisy chain the strips together, I pretty much did in a few places with short wires between strips
I do not know what state era you but in California does not fly, all by code. Unless there is not inspection. Other than that very basic, some changes… Instead of connecting the driver to the Rolex on top install another box as the one below, one side outlet, the other your low voltaje with a divider, or easier if you will do it to the hole kitchen, run the switch wire to the attic, from there, low voltage wiring to every place you will have lights.
The LED Strip in the description mentions the strip being 4 PIN. The extension wire your linked is 2 wire. I have bought both but haven't received them yet to confirm. Is the LED tape 4 wire or 2 wire?
The wire and led strips I linked are the exact ones I used. Both should be 2 wire. Just checked and it looks like the link is still correct and I didn't see anything on the product page about the led strip being 4 pin so I'm not sure why you're seeing something different
@@ProjectBilld Thank you for the reply. I mistakenly bought a different LED tape that has 3 wires. White, with dimmer. I suspect that is why there are 3 wires and they recommend 4 pins if you cut/splice them. Your video was great. Wish all videos were as clean as yours.
This is fantastic! Question: is it an option to do another connector on the end of the first LED strip you installed and run right off of that? Or does each LED strip need to go back to the driver like you did? Thanks!
Yeah that's actually how some of mine are installed. Driver to led strip at the top of the cabinet then from that led strip down to the one at the bottom. That's fine to do as long as the length/# of leds doesn't lead to significant voltage drop
I put links in the video description under the planning section you can use to calculate that as it's dependent on a few things. You'd be specially looking for the voltage drop calculator. Let me know if you have any questions figuring it out
Very nice... Im going to do mine the exact same way.... One question I do have is where did you get the extra led wire with the white covering im gonna need to buy a roll.... Thanks in advance
This is one of the best DIY videos I’ve ever seen. It helped me to realize that it is nothing. I should be doing myself, but it also gave me a standard of measure for when I do have a contractor coming to complete this project for me. Thank you for being simple and thorough and clear in your communication.
NEC (national electric code for the US) allows for romex to be run on the outside of walls where it not in danger of being damaged. Yes this is somewhat subjective but in the back of a cabinet is pretty safe. Can also depend on what inspector reviews your work if you decide to pull a permit for this work
Hi, I ordered everything in your list exactly lol. I have everything wired up, but it keeps tripping the breaker. Do you know what it could be? If I unhook the driver the kasa switch comes on and let’s me connect to it, but when the driver is wired up it keeps popping the breaker
I'm not sure what exactly is going on that would be tripping the breaker but it does sound like the source of the problem is beyond the switch. How many outlets/lights are already on that circuit? Might be too much load with the new leds added. Have you wired the leds up yet? If so, try unhooking them from the driver and see if the breaker still trips
If you shared a neutral across two different circuits, your AFCI breaker (if your electrical panel has them) might be what's actually tripping, not from overcurrent condition. When you go to reset, there's a pattern of light to look for. If you reset it and it was an arc fault then the light will glow for five seconds. If not arc fault but over current, there will be no light when you reset it. That's how my Siemens breakers work. Your brand may be a little different. To fix this, make sure you're not sharing neutrals across multiple circuits since there maybe multiple circuits in your box.
@@ProjectBilld sorry one more. Where in the cabinet did you mount the light rails in the glass door cabinets on top? In the front or middle ? Were the rails 45 degree angled or straight across the top? Thank you again
I am thinking about doing this project on my new kitchen. Would I be able to power multiple power supplies from one single wall switch? I have 3 separate places that I have countertops and would like under cabinet lighting on all 3 sections. 4.5ft 4.5ft and 6.5ft
Yes, with the power supply that I used, multiple of them can be connected to the same switch. But since you'll need to run a romex cable to each supply from the switch, why not just use 1 power supply and run cable to the less like I did across my kitchen?
@@ProjectBilld I was just going to ask this as we ran romex wiring from one switch years ago to 4 locations in anticipation of led install. Now time to install. Thanks again.
I have been looking to build custom LED strip light that is 0-100% dimmable and without PWM flicker when I point my camera at it just like yours seems to be. Can you tell more how to make it dimmable? I have existing house with existing wires in concrete wall so I can't easily add new cables for communication between light switch and LED power supply so I need solution that works with existing 2 wires like yours. What do I need to know to make it happen? I heard not every dimmer and every power supply work together like that. PS I am not in US so instead of giving specific brand names tell me what keywords to look for in specs. Is smart dimmer needed or if I don't need fancy features like timing, do dumb dimmers also work?
Did you look for specific dimmer type? Like Phase-Cut Dimming, Pulse-Width Modulation, 0-10V Dimming, DALI (Digital Addressable Lighting Interface) Dimming or TRIAC Dimming? What are you currently using? Also do your dimming switches start making noise at low light levels or are they quiet?
I did not, I don't know what the differences between those dimmer types. I just tested ahead of time before installing to make sure it worked as planned. I haven't noticed any noise from the switch
For a cleaner look, we contractors place the fixture so it covers the hole and wire coming through the back of the cabinet instead of installing it on the other side of the cabinet.
Yep definitely a good option especially for those that don't have trim on the front to mount lights to. I preferred the way the light reflected off the wall vs it shining directly out so that's why I mounted it on the front edge facing back
It was a little flimsier than I expected. I had to add a 2x2 piece of wood to the bottom on the rear side in order to stabilize it better ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXTh-lz-8W6GcB219vTLp27-MxbZYObBX . It is also starting to bow a little at the outer wall ( I've had it up for about 6 months), I've already had a shelf tumble down because of the bow and the fact that the little shelf brackets are quite short. I went out to home depot and got some longer ones so that the shelves don't tumble down again. Overall, it looks very nice for the price and it holds a lot ( I use it as a pantry). I am very satisfied with my purchase. I just strongly suggest reinforcing it before putting it up.
This is by far the most concise & professional installation I have seen presented here on YT for under cabinet lighting. I'm a retired electrician who has installed quite a few of these myself and it is encouraging to see someone present this in way that is both easy to understand, yet done well.
Appreciate the compliments!
As a beginner i found this very hard to follow :(
I too am not quite a beginner but not an electrician but you hit on many of the questions I was having when starting to plan... I have a 9' run a 22' run and a 20' run.. gonna have them all on the same dimmer switch and hopefully it will all go together.. didn't know and wasn't addressed if you need a dimmable power supply if you have a dimmer... and if not what happens? also can I use speaker wire? 16/2... I look forward to getting all the materials and putting it all together..
Awesome video and great instruction...
If you haven't seen it already two resources I really liked ( but couldn't quite follow yet...)
ruclips.net/video/Umo6jKLfwsQ/видео.htmlsi=hBJN_EE5tFD-7Ij1
and
ruclips.net/video/KbbKAxnpCQQ/видео.htmlsi=mPULdtNjWAD2IGMQ
Hope it helps someone..
Wow, I wish all instructional videos were like this. Simple, to the point and most of all 100% how you should actually do it. Having been in Audio / Visual installation, interior rehab and currently an Industrial Electrician I can say that you did everything exactly the way I would do it. Actually you did some things better than I would do it, sometimes I get cheap.
Thanks! I try hard to do and present things the correct way, it doesn't always mean I'm going to be 100% correct, but it's the goal!
p.s. Beep Beep
ruclips.net/video/0EFQ2NU73uU/видео.html
Dude - thanks for showing the LED driver here and how to set it up. NO ONE else actually shows how to use your basic wall switch to hook these up. I'm using your Amazon links and you have a new subscriber. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful! I hear you, I had to do a lot of research to figure out what I needed to make it all work
I love how you cut the access holes at 45s and then re'patched them. I hope i remember that the next time i do any drywall work!
You would be amazed by how difficult it is to find a simple explanation of DIY LED wiring. Most videos are manufacturers telling you how to use their kits, and text descriptions from distributors like Bird Dog assume you already know the parts and where you should put them. This is the first practical example I've found, and it's really helped me put the pieces together. One touch I loved was showing your struggles with the outlet box. That's the sort of situational info that is actually very important to a project, but that every DIY video in the world leaves out because it's assumed to be too specific. So, thank you!
You're welcome! Glad the video was helpful
Yeah. That chunk of drywall is gone forever down that big black hole U created to another dimension in time and space...😢🕳️
Best led wiring instructions available anywhere
I've watched a lot of these "LED Cabinet and/or LED Niche lighting" How-To videos seeking information and this one was the most complete, answered all my questions, was easy to follow and all without unnecessary technical detail or annoying background music. Perfect! Thank you! -TIP to anyone considering doing this... If you can solder as shown at 5:33, it's a better option than using the click latch "locking connectors" which tend to be hit or miss in regards to getting a perfect connection. Many times you have to latch and unlatch the connectors or wiggle the wires in order to determine which of the connectors you installed has a flaky connection and preventing your light strip from lighting.
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful
Sweet job, thanks for the stacked, overstuffed info dump. One of the best electrician DIY videos I’ve seen.
You're welcome!
This is the best detailed description for hardwired switch for led lighting I have found in 2 years of searching! Thank you.
This is one of the best how to videos I've seen for how confident I feel being able to do it first time.
Only thing I would recommend to viewers is running 24 volts for longer runs like this one. It helps prevent as much voltage drop vs 12 volts
Thanks! 24 volts is definitely a good idea for longer runs, my voltage drop was well within acceptable range. I have long wire runs but the total length of the light strips for my kitchen was still pretty short
Best instructional video on the internet! I've searched this topic multiple times. Your instruction, as well as reference material and parts list is unmatched. Thank you so much.
You're welcome! Hearing feedback like yours makes all the work that goes into making a video worth it
Absolutely a freakin fantastic explanation! Thank you so much. Especially the beginning, where you laid out the parts and showed how they worked. Thanks once again.
I have to say thank you. You organized all the information and footage in a comprehensive and comprehensible way. Bravo!
You're welcome!
Finally! Bill I can't begin to thank you enough for this straight-forward and simple video! I have been searching, and searching and searching for someone showing how to hard wire LED lighting strips to a wall switch and just about gave up until I stumbled upon your video. You ROCK! 🤘🏽
You're welcome! Glad I could help
I would have preferred a switch with rave lighting, smoke machine and DJ air horn sound effects for my late night chef sessions, but this will work too I guess
Ah yes, a common DIY project
Well done with this video. Informative but not too long. Keep up the good work.
Best job at showing how to do some electrical work iv ever seen.
Thanks!
Its about time...I have watched dozens of videos on this...First one I can use...Thank You...
You absolutely crushed this install tutorial. Even picked up a few tips I wasn't expecting. Subscribed!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful
Took me forever to find this ... the best wired under cabinet LED video out there. Good job!!
Thanks! Glad you found the video
Installed to replace a failing fluorescent fixture under my desk hutch. This fixture was easy to install and gives me the flexibility of 2 brightness levels and 3 color temperatures. Sturdy aluminum housing and slim design. Very well made.
Very well done! This is exactly what I've been looking for in an instructional video. Thank you.
You're welcome! Glad my video could help
Absolutely incredible video. Flawless explanation.
This was exactly the inspiration I needed! I've built all sorts of LED projects, mostly automotive focused, over the years. Plus, I spent many years in low voltage world doing custom A/V, HT, automation and then into the Data Center world. We're finally about to kick off a big home reno project and our Kitchen it's getting gutted, bye bye 1971 cabinets. I was looking for a little inspiration and you nailed it, even down to having similar cabinets, colors, and the fact you've got it tied into a smart switch. Your install is very clean and reasonable for most anyone to tackle. Great job!
Thanks Chad!
Fantastic explanation of the process. This video is by far the best on the subject.
Best video out there been looking into this for a few days now and this video is the best one imo
This is the best tutorial by far and very neat install. Thanks. Only thing missing in the description is the Aluminum Channels. I quickly added things I need on amazon using the list you compiled, but there is no info on the Aluminum Channel. Forever grateful for the education. I had a million idea how to do this, but yours is neat and professional.
Thanks for the kind words! I think you just missed it. Look for LED strip light track
@@ProjectBilld Yes, I did miss it!!! Thanks again!!!
WHAT A BEAUTIFUL INSTALLATION MY FRIEND!! 🤗🤗🤗
Thanks!
perfect way to explain and guide through this process, definitely gave me the motivation and inspiration to want to do a project myself swell.
Awesome! Glad to hear that
Good job, perfect video and explanation! By far the best clips
Thanks!
you really go into detail with these videos! this gives me a lot of good info to go by in my projects. thanks!!
Great tutorial and timing; I’m starting today 😬
Good luck! Let me know if you have any questions
Thanks the god tech for RUclips. These videos are plenty helpful.
Wonderful explanation. Thank you for being concise and to the point. Great video.
Glad I could help!
Awesome video. Thank you very much. That’s a lot of darn work.
You're welcome! Don't I know it! But really glad I did it
No lie, whenever I’m cutting drywall for an outlet and the piece falls into the wall, I also find myself repeating the same thing at 1:58 😂
It's very happy in its forever home
Such a good explanation
Great job! I am familiar with installing low voltage LEDs and you describe everything very well!
*Extremely* useful, thank you
You're welcome!
Thanks for the info. This is a challenge I hope to take on.
This was an amazing tutorial. Sooo helpful. I either want to marry Bill or have him as my dad!! 👏🏻👏🏻
If I have a say in the matter, I'd prefer to be your dad, son.
Fantastic tutorial. Thank you!
You're welcome!
Best Video Ever ! 🙏
Clean install, excellent presentation. Subbed.
I knew you were going to solder something as soon as i started watching the video
This is a cool video...howvever not having a tile backsplash in place already makes it easier. You can cover up all the work with the backsplace. If you have tile in place..best option is to use wireless LED's that work with Alexa.
For sure! I experimented with running the wires without cutting holes as I know many people have existing backsplashes, even broke out an endoscope with a hook on it, but I couldn't get it to work. If the kitchen is against an interior wall, one could work from the other side but otherwise probably best to just go the route you suggested
This is probably the best install I’ve seen on RUclips. So I’m looking to do about a 50’ run of LED under cabinet lighting and I want to use a RGB smart variety. Any ideas? Most are fairly limited on run length.
Thanks! I think that armacost makes a wifi rgb controller that you can use in place of the driver I used. You'd have to use a rdg led strip instead of the white one I did. Search for Armacost ProLine Multicolor RGB + White Wi-Fi LED Controller. Let me know if this helps!
Very well done! Thank You!!
You're welcome!
Great video
Thanks!
Hi, could you tap into an existing ceiling light from a dimmable switch, meaning controlling ceiling lights and under cabinet lights from the same dimmable switch ? Thanks !
You could use the installation driver for this job with the offset head. Love that thing.
Yes absolutely! Been waiting for it to go on sale
Hello question ? Exacly how u connect the driver to the dimmer switch
Well done!
Thanks!
Great video my friend!
Thanks!
This is a very good video too many videos are not safe
Thanks!
Hello, I like this product. Since RUclips has changed its format, I find it difficult to get around it. Would you please tell me the name of this lighting system and where did you buy it. Thanks
It's all linked in the video description. Should be located directly under the video but will need to expand it. Likely will say show more or something like that
Very nice. Thanks.
You're welcome
This video is great. Exactly what I needed. THANK YOU! When I bought the house my cabinets are already wired with halogen T10 bulbs that get really hot. I bought led replacement bulbs and then realized the power driver was AC so I need to buy what you used. Your link went to the 45 Watt but I should be able to get with by the 20 watt driver if its only for 5 1.5 watt bulbs right?
You're welcome! Sounds like the 20 watt should be plenty
Thanks
Might be a dumb question but how do you know whether the black was going on the negative screw and the red on the positive when you are installing it in the driver?
The driver is marked and there's a hole/slot for each wire to go into. The screws clamp the wires into those slots. Does that make sense?
Great video! If you were to use multi-colored LEDs, can you share which ones you would buy?
Thanks! If I were going to do a hardwire setup like the video I'd likely use the same brand as the white leds I used. In addition to the driver you'd need to add a color controller as well
This is a great video! I’ve followed all the steps, got dimmable LED strips with the same light switch but mine aren’t dimming. Any ideas on what I may have done wrong?
Is your driver dimmable too? I accidentally ordered a non dimming one the first time around
Very well done video … the only unclear issue I was left with is how all your led strip locations were powered? Were they Daisy chained in series or paralleled back at the 45 watt power driver? In the video you show tightening a single set of led wires onto the driver output terminals but that was before you tackled the remaining locations. I would think that each location would’ve been freed from the drive by a separate cable? This would’ve resulted in three red and black cables at your driver?
There's a short single wire going from the driver as only one would fit in the terminals on the driver. It immediately hooks up to 3 others. Each of those wires goes to a separate location
Thank you for the quick reply! I just watched the video again on my computer (big screen) and saw where you detailed the three runs coming back to the driver and wire-nutting them to the short piece of cable to allow it to terminate into the driver output. I have to commend you on your video and comment links ... it is by far the most thorough video on this that I've seen. I think you've motivated me to finally order some parts and start replacing my old fluorescent-tube undercabinet lights!
I've subscribed and clicked the bell to be notified of your new videos! @@ProjectBilld
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Are you able to put things in those upper cabinets or would they become visible when the lights are on?
I have a similar setup but hope not to show all the stuff I store in there (thinking LED panels attached to the doors to block the visibility inside
As long as the stuff inside the cabinet is an inch or two back from the door, I can't tell that anything is inside
Love the video, question real quick for you, as opposed to an adding the dimmer to an existing three way switch, is it okay to add it an outlet we have below our cabinets? I’m assuming yes as it’s under constant power
I can't speak to the electrical code in your area, but if there is constant power and adding the lights won't overload the circuit, then it should be fine
¡Gracias!
Great video! Thanks so much for taking the time to do it so well! I have a design question: I have 3 separate cabinets and will have about 13' of lights total. The cabinets are fairly close together but the driver will be located about 17 feet away from the farthest cabinet. If I do home runs from each cabinet back to the driver I will use about 45 feet of LED cable. Just wondering what would be the best approach: 1) home runs or 2) connect them in series. Also wondering if I go with the 2nd option, should I create a loop and run back to the driver on the last cabinet?
I think I follow. Since most of your distance is led lights and not wire, as long as you're under the max length of led strip for the specific leds you're using I think you'd be fine to do a straight run. It would definitely be less work that doing that than array or feedback loop configuration. Straight runs have a chance of getting dimmer at the far end but I don't think that's going to be a problem from what you've described
@@ProjectBilld To clarify, the 45 feet would be the in wall 18/2 cable. Only 13 feet of lights. I would use much less cable if I wired the light segments in series. I'm thinking the kit at Armacost with the 30 watt driver and 16' of 2700K lights would hopefully work without any noticeable difference in brightness at the end of the run.
Sounds like it should work as a straight run to me
@@ProjectBilld Thanks so much. Appreciate you taking the time to help:)
How did you decide what LED manufacture to select for the LED strip lights and driver?
I tried to find a dimmable driver I could hardwire first with good reviews and documentation and once I did I just went with the strip lights from the same company. Seemed to be good quality when installing and is still working well
Great video for sure,,can the dimmer work if you have a switched outlet. Planning on changing out regular switch for dimmer and use the outlet to plug in tranformer,,thx
So wiring a dimmer switch to a standard outlet is against code as you could technically plug things other than lights in to the outlet. However, there are special outlets/plugs made specifically for this. Search hdtr/ddtr outlets and rp-fdu plugs. You'd wire the dimmer switch to the lamp only side of the outlet and replace the plug end of the dimming power supply with the special plug.
I installed a dedicated outlet installed above cabinets just for driver to be hidden up there and feed wires down to calbinets,, Nothing else will be plugged in., thx for reply,,I think will be ok
Hi,,I have 9' of led tape and 40' of lead wires from driver,,armacost is saying at least 100w driver,,does that sound correct,,I was going to use 60w,,thx
No that doesn't sound correct. 9ft of strip lighting isn't much. The lead wires don't effect the wattage required for the dimmer, only voltage drop. Wattage required should be calculated using only the length of the specific strip lights you are using
That's what I thought too,,thx,,I'm going with the charts recommendations for 9ft. I talked to 2 different people there and 2 different answers,,thx again
would this be the same concept for running leds on kitchen island? thanks
I don't know why it would be much different. You'd have to tell me more about your island and how you plan to use the lighting for me to give a definitive answer
Great video! I bought most of the items on your material list. What would you suggest for RGBW strips? From my research, I'm seeing all of your materials with the addition of an RGBW controller tied in between the strip and driver?
I haven't done it myself but I believe that's what you would need!
Pretty good video! Couldn’t you also run all the low voltage cables to one driver so you wouldn’t need to run power to all 3 drivers? And not need to buy all 3 drivers?
That's how I did it in the video. I only used 1 driver
I assume the driver gets less that 120 VAC from the wall switch when the dimmer is deployed. Does this affect the voltage required to run the LEDs?
I'm not sure, I never measured it while dimmed. I haven't noticed any issues with dimming them, though I do mostly keep them at full brightness since they're indirect lighting
Why not get the strip and diffuser installed before mounting the aluminum channel? Seems like it would save some contortions.
If you used some kind of adhesive or the brackets that came with the channels to mount the aluminum channel you could probably do it this way. I drilled through the channels and mounted with screws as the brackets that came with them were terrible so the channels had to go up first
Cool install..anyway to modify this setup if you had wled strips that you could modify temperature? Would something like wled need to be incorporated?
You'd need to use a compatible tunable white led driver. Something like this www.armacostlighting.com/products/proline-cct-led-light-control
Nice. I'm assuming one could daisy chain from end to end of the different LED strips if that were easier? I have total access down to studs.
And you kept mentioning "LED cable". What wire are you using there, gauge and type?
The wire should be linked in the video description. Don't see why you couldn't daisy chain the strips together, I pretty much did in a few places with short wires between strips
@@ProjectBilld It is linked. I'm bad about looking in that description area and you did a great job with all of those links. Thanks.
I do not know what state era you but in California does not fly, all by code. Unless there is not inspection. Other than that very basic, some changes…
Instead of connecting the driver to the Rolex on top install another box as the one below, one side outlet, the other your low voltaje with a divider, or easier if you will do it to the hole kitchen, run the switch wire to the attic, from there, low voltage wiring to every place you will have lights.
The LED Strip in the description mentions the strip being 4 PIN. The extension wire your linked is 2 wire. I have bought both but haven't received them yet to confirm. Is the LED tape 4 wire or 2 wire?
The wire and led strips I linked are the exact ones I used. Both should be 2 wire. Just checked and it looks like the link is still correct and I didn't see anything on the product page about the led strip being 4 pin so I'm not sure why you're seeing something different
@@ProjectBilld Thank you for the reply. I mistakenly bought a different LED tape that has 3 wires. White, with dimmer. I suspect that is why there are 3 wires and they recommend 4 pins if you cut/splice them.
Your video was great. Wish all videos were as clean as yours.
hmm I know at least with automotive wiring - crimped connections are considered superior to soldered ones
I believe thats because the vibrations from driving can break the solder joints over time. Hopefully that's not an issue in a kitchen lol
This is fantastic! Question: is it an option to do another connector on the end of the first LED strip you installed and run right off of that? Or does each LED strip need to go back to the driver like you did? Thanks!
Yeah that's actually how some of mine are installed. Driver to led strip at the top of the cabinet then from that led strip down to the one at the bottom. That's fine to do as long as the length/# of leds doesn't lead to significant voltage drop
Hey Bill, hopefully you see this. Do you have any idea about how long you can run LED strips until the voltage drop is significant?
I put links in the video description under the planning section you can use to calculate that as it's dependent on a few things. You'd be specially looking for the voltage drop calculator. Let me know if you have any questions figuring it out
If you didn't have the driver, would the led strip still work if they were wired directly to the switch for power?
No. The voltage would be much too high
Very nice... Im going to do mine the exact same way.... One question I do have is where did you get the extra led wire with the white covering im gonna need to buy a roll.... Thanks in advance
Materials and tools used are linked in the video description!
Look for the link called LED cable
Oh man thanks.. Sorry i went right passed it thank you very much
This is one of the best DIY videos I’ve ever seen. It helped me to realize that it is nothing. I should be doing myself, but it also gave me a standard of measure for when I do have a contractor coming to complete this project for me. Thank you for being simple and thorough and clear in your communication.
Glad to hear it!
Can you run Romex directly into the LED driver without conduit? My city is pretty hardcore on code compliance.
NEC (national electric code for the US) allows for romex to be run on the outside of walls where it not in danger of being damaged. Yes this is somewhat subjective but in the back of a cabinet is pretty safe. Can also depend on what inspector reviews your work if you decide to pull a permit for this work
Hi, I ordered everything in your list exactly lol. I have everything wired up, but it keeps tripping the breaker. Do you know what it could be? If I unhook the driver the kasa switch comes on and let’s me connect to it, but when the driver is wired up it keeps popping the breaker
I'm not sure what exactly is going on that would be tripping the breaker but it does sound like the source of the problem is beyond the switch. How many outlets/lights are already on that circuit? Might be too much load with the new leds added. Have you wired the leds up yet? If so, try unhooking them from the driver and see if the breaker still trips
If you shared a neutral across two different circuits, your AFCI breaker (if your electrical panel has them) might be what's actually tripping, not from overcurrent condition.
When you go to reset, there's a pattern of light to look for. If you reset it and it was an arc fault then the light will glow for five seconds. If not arc fault but over current, there will be no light when you reset it. That's how my Siemens breakers work. Your brand may be a little different.
To fix this, make sure you're not sharing neutrals across multiple circuits since there maybe multiple circuits in your box.
What was the color temp of the LEDs that you used ? Trying to decide to get tunable or fixed temperature. Thank you
3k as that matches the overhead lights in my kitchen. I only really use the cabinet lights in the evenings so I wanted a warmer color temp
@@ProjectBilld sorry one more. Where in the cabinet did you mount the light rails in the glass door cabinets on top? In the front or middle ? Were the rails 45 degree angled or straight across the top?
Thank you again
No worries! I did top, above the doors facing back straight towards the wall
Not all heroes wear capes
No capes!
Does the driver have to be in a junction box? I'm not sure of the code requirements.
No, and it wouldn't fit anyway. It's double insulated, not really much different from a power brick.
did you wire the lights in parallel?
Yes. 3 separate runs going to the driver
I am thinking about doing this project on my new kitchen. Would I be able to power multiple power supplies from one single wall switch? I have 3 separate places that I have countertops and would like under cabinet lighting on all 3 sections. 4.5ft 4.5ft and 6.5ft
Yes, with the power supply that I used, multiple of them can be connected to the same switch. But since you'll need to run a romex cable to each supply from the switch, why not just use 1 power supply and run cable to the less like I did across my kitchen?
@@ProjectBilld I was just going to ask this as we ran romex wiring from one switch years ago to 4 locations in anticipation of led install. Now time to install. Thanks again.
I have been looking to build custom LED strip light that is 0-100% dimmable and without PWM flicker when I point my camera at it just like yours seems to be. Can you tell more how to make it dimmable? I have existing house with existing wires in concrete wall so I can't easily add new cables for communication between light switch and LED power supply so I need solution that works with existing 2 wires like yours. What do I need to know to make it happen? I heard not every dimmer and every power supply work together like that. PS I am not in US so instead of giving specific brand names tell me what keywords to look for in specs. Is smart dimmer needed or if I don't need fancy features like timing, do dumb dimmers also work?
A dumb dimmer should work. Look for one that's rated to be used with dimmable led bulbs, and look for a dimmable led power supply to pair with it
Did you look for specific dimmer type? Like Phase-Cut Dimming, Pulse-Width Modulation, 0-10V Dimming, DALI (Digital Addressable Lighting Interface) Dimming or TRIAC Dimming? What are you currently using? Also do your dimming switches start making noise at low light levels or are they quiet?
I did not, I don't know what the differences between those dimmer types. I just tested ahead of time before installing to make sure it worked as planned. I haven't noticed any noise from the switch
Good god man that is way too much work. I could never complete this lol
For a cleaner look, we contractors place the fixture so it covers the hole and wire coming through the back of the cabinet instead of installing it on the other side of the cabinet.
Yep definitely a good option especially for those that don't have trim on the front to mount lights to. I preferred the way the light reflected off the wall vs it shining directly out so that's why I mounted it on the front edge facing back
no insulate the unused ground wire?
Ground wires don't need to be insulated, they don't carry any current (unless something has gone wrong of course)
10*
You're the man! Good explanation
I was DYING to see you operate the dimmer, trying out different levels of brightness.
Nice, but using a sawzall to cut nails is much easier.
It was a little flimsier than I expected. I had to add a 2x2 piece of wood to the bottom on the rear side in order to stabilize it better ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXTh-lz-8W6GcB219vTLp27-MxbZYObBX . It is also starting to bow a little at the outer wall ( I've had it up for about 6 months), I've already had a shelf tumble down because of the bow and the fact that the little shelf brackets are quite short. I went out to home depot and got some longer ones so that the shelves don't tumble down again. Overall, it looks very nice for the price and it holds a lot ( I use it as a pantry). I am very satisfied with my purchase. I just strongly suggest reinforcing it before putting it up.