Thank you, nicely done. I am a chemist and subsequently, I was aware of most of these things, but it was never structured for me. I now have a better appreciation for the standards and how they interplay. Ned
Great information on the new ILSAC GF-6. I really appreciate you uploading this video 😊🙌 I'm excited for when more RUclipsrs upload videos on this new API SP ILSAC GF-6 rating.
Thanks for your informative videos. I'm glad to see you that you're getting more subscribers. I particularly appreciate your explanations of oil types and oil additive functions and chemistry - my high school chemistry and physics teacher left a lot to be desired and you do a great job of explaining without over-simplifying. Maybe it's not in your area of expertise, but I'd love a Gasoline Explained channel or playlist to explain the formulations and additives of modern motor gasoline and dispel a lot of the internet fallacies and myths on that subject.
Thanks! Appreciate the feedback - personally come from a mechanical engineering background so this is the way that we would explain chemistry to anyone that's more mechanically-minded. As for "Gasoline Explained" - that's a great idea. At the moment I'll share the "Engine Oils" playlist with you: ruclips.net/p/PLu1i0eyydBX2L4q2Uk4rBh07n7b_YuU3x but your idea to have a "mythbusters" segment is a really good one. Are there any particular "myths" that you would like to see addressed?
@@LubricationExplained 1.How fast it takes gasoline to break down, particularly to the points that it can cause gum and varnish and where it ceases to provide adequate power or effective ignition? I realize there's a lot of variables, but I love to hear about variables and how they affect things. 2. What is the chemistry behind gum, varnish and sludge formation in gasoline? How do gum, varnish and sludge differ or relate to each other? Does ethanol and additives make it form faster or to a greater extent? How does it chemically interact with the different fuel and engine system materials like plastics, seals, metals, etc.? 3. Are there different types of gum, varnish and sludge? How does their formation relate to engine oil? 4. What levels of gasoline additives are beneficial and at what level can they be an expensive waste or even damaging to gas engines? 5. What does the term "engine deposits" include? 6. Why are there carbon buildup problems in some direct injection engines but not in others? 7. How do gasoline formulations and additives differ between US, Europe, Australia, Asia, etc and for what reasons? I love to learn, and appreciate expertise wherever I find it, but don't let me push you too far into any project that might take your life out of a healthy balance. Thanks again!
FANTASTIC presentation! Best explanation of new GF six oils I have seen yet! Thank you! And now that we are on our third engine in our GMC Acadia… I will be using this oil. And then leasing a Toyota :-)
It would be amazing to see an oil using all this modern tech but without the formula restrictions of catalytic converters. Basically a modern oil from a first tier oil company but made for old collector vehicles which often have different oil design requirements with flat tappet valve trains, possibly leaded fuel, intermittent storage, moderate rpm. (Low lead avgas is often used in old vintage vehicles car or tractor, partly for protection against exhaust valve-seat erosion but mainly because to avoid costly storage issues and short carburetor life common with the oxygenated fuels sold for modern highway use.)
Racing oils. That's where all the technology is at. They don't have the restrictions of catalytic converters so tend to have much higher levels of ZDDP / other antiwear additives. Although the engines aren't using flat tappets, the higher loads of race engines necessitate a more extensive antiwear pack.
@@LubricationExplained I will look closer at racing oils. I have been under the impression that racing oils are formulated with the assumption of very short drain intervals so they may not be appropriate for something like a classic muscle car engine that is driven on the street or an antique tractor. As a possible example, race oils might be insensitive to the TBN package. (High TBN mineral deposits would get cleaned during frequent tear downs and TAN wouldn't have time/moisture to be a significant concern relative to many other wear factors.) Really the vast majority of race vehicles are not in the premier leagues with million dollar sponsors. So many racers use flat tappet engines, as they are much lower cost and a bit lighter for the same strength(high rpm), and generally more reliable than rollers. (A little more friction but also fewer parts to get wrong.) Roller based valve trains are primarily a way to meet fuel efficiency and emissions standards. Thus many motorcycle engines, like amateur racers, do not use rollers. (Insignificant friction relative to air drag. And unlike cars, moto fuel use hasn't been regulated in most places.) Though motorcycle specific oils must also consider wet-clutch performance and act as transmission gear lube, because the most common configuration uses crankcase oil for all three parts.
Just because thin oil is more efficient in Japan, some manufaceturer force the same viscosity to every country, even at tropics. As result, many motorcycle in my country have to change oil at 20% of suggested oil change periode because the oil already ruined. Many gets fuel dilution and depleting oil problems too. Damaged piston and cylinder are not rare.
@@LubricationExplained I live in Indonesia. There is no second option. Many Japanese brand recommend same oil viscosity as Japan. Honda Motorcycle CEO even try to force 10W30 globally.
Perhaps another video explaining the difference between so called cheap oil and brand named oil, for Example Costco oil and say Mobile 1 extended performance that I use in my F150 turbo. Good video that prompted me to ask this question
SP addresses LSPI, but BMW LL04 blows it away in wear protection, sludge protection, deposit protection, soot thickening, aftertreatment compatibility and fuel economy. Oxidative thickening is the same (Lubrizol Specification Comparison tool). SP is only 'much better' in one area and worse in all others.
Recently some manufacturers have brought out a 0w-8 oil, an even lower viscosity than 0w-16! I assume also under GF-6B, although it may not be. Thanks for the interesting and informative video.
Thanks for the amazing information. Do you think I can use 0W20 in my 2014 Toyota Camry if I live in very extreme hot weather above 122F. My Owner's manual recommends using any oil viscosity from 0W20 to 20W50, and they did not specify and specific viscosity! I use Amsoil signature series 100% synthetic 5W30 right now. It is API: SP, ILSAC: GF-6, and Acea: A5/B5
To be honest, you probably can - but if you've been using the 5W-30 with no issues I'd stick with that. The fuel economy benefits of moving to a 0W-20 are going to be pretty marginal.
Dropping calcium additives from 1200ppm to 800ppm equal to reduction by 1/3. From 2005 to 2015, companies like BMW, Toyota, VW, KIA and few others have somehow messed up designs of their pistion-pistion rings. This leads to high engine oil consumption of >0.5 quart per 1000 miles. These "consumed oils" and their additives will eventually get into top of pistons and later onto catalyst. Logically, this will quickly lead to failing of MOT test. Good engines should not be consuming more than 1 quart engine oil per 6000 miles. Regards.
In your last graphic/illustration depicting the DONUT, it shows the new API Service SP, as well as the SN PLUS. I thought the SN PLUS was just an interim rating, pending SP introduction. Am I missing something?
Direct Injrction only + turbo is a bad combination for disasters, requires due diligence in routine maintenance. I've been using Shell Helix ultra 5w-40 which was recently API SP certified, worked well so far for the N55. Noticed Nulon Apex+ and Gulf Western - some 5w-30 meet API SP, hopefully they'll help the Skyactiv-G last. Bit l bit longer. Can't find good cars like GH Mazda6 with MZR (port injection), dual injection might be a good alternative but complexity isn't going to help even if they are made by Toyota 😮
Excellent video. Do you have any thoughts on low/mid SAPS oils and whether or not we have achieved parity from a wear perspective with full SAPS oils? Should one always stick with full SAPS if they have no emissions equipment to protect?
@@LubricationExplained how are newer hdeos protecting flat tappet valve trains with lower zddp? chevron delo ck-4/sn comes to mind. it has lower zddp than ever before but still meets so many specs by manufacturers. how do they do it?
Would engine oil with extra zinc but lower viscosity for e.g. 5w20 give the same protection to the engine as engine oil with higher viscosity but less zinc for e.g. 5w30?
In my 2012 Volvo S60 T4 the engine comes filled new with SAE 5W/20 but in the first oil change, the owners manual says “it’s up to you to keep using the SAE 5W-20 or switch to SAE 5W-30.” I live Costa Rica where temperatures seldomly drop to freezing except in the mountain ranges and for hours during the year and have been using SAE 5W-30 despite the fact that the dealer uses SAE 10W-30. I am now using an SAE 10W-30 with no visible down grade in performance nor fuel economy. I replace my oil and filter every 5,000 Km or 3 months…
Fellow crikey Aussie! I’m well aware of LSPI… i experienced catastrophic engine failure, cracking the piston. Before purchasing oils I always pay close attention to the specifications and will always buy API-SP due to having a turbo charged 2.0T GDI engine. However, two of the current oils for eg Nulon long life specifies both API-SP and ILSAC-GF6 . A simillar oil, Gulf Western only specifies API-SP But no mention of ILSAC-GF6 Given they are both Australian owned oils…essentially they’re both the same? I understand that both are governing bodies that set standards… But what does it mean? All oils seem to mention API but not all mention ILSAC (International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee) So if it doesn’t mention then it doesn’t meet their standard or can you assume it does, given the mention of api?
Would be good to explain what they mean by ASH content and what it is. Also how if at all do the new oils reduce the chance of intake, intake valve and turbo carbonization? GDI engines require low ash content. Is that to reduce wear or carbonization from crankcase vapors?
So most motorcycle oils probably aren't going to get the SP designation. If there's any friction modifiers in the formulation they interfere with the wet-clutch system on a motorbike.
Is it possible that oils which pass the AP-SN tests be able to provide equal protection to engine with lower HTHS and viscosity value? For example, 10w50 oil that meets API-SP can become a substitute for 10w60 oil that only meets API-SL?
Hi, thanks a lot for share your knowledge in the comprehensively way. I have a question. All this specs in SN+/SP ILSAC GF-6 help to reduce the consumption, right? Or I always see a high consumption in GDIs? And what is the difference or aggregate of GM dexos? Thanks again
Are you saying it's been hard for Oil Manufactures to create a ow-16? I'm just curious on why some brands like Valvoline make it but some other popular brands dont.
Great question. I think the market is pretty small for 0W-16 at the moment, so many manufacturers are probably waiting until there is wider adoption before they dive in.
Can you explain the resource conserving aspect of API SP-RC? I see some oil listed as API SP, and some listed as API SP-RC. and to confuse things further I see oils listed as ILSAC GF-6a and API SP, but that same oil will not be listed as API SP-RC. So, what is the RC component and why are some manufacturers omitting it from their oil even though the oil seems to meet the RC spec.
GREAT UPDATE. Thanks ... so we Boron antiwear additives be sufficient to protect flat tappet engines ... or should we stick to SM rated or lower, or special designations by manufacturers who might specifically add extra Zinc (meaning phosphoous) given that Cat issues are not big for older engines.
Get rid of low tension piston rings & low tension oil scrapper rings. I think ICE must be designed to have maximum engine oil consumption of 0.1litre for every 1 litre engine capacity for every 1000km travelled, doing at 100km/hr and the engine had done total of 50,000km. Basically a 2 litre capacity ICE should not be consuming more than 0.2litre of engine oil after travelling 1000km at 100km/hr. Otherwise it is pointless trying to limit calcium or zinc to 1000ppm in trying to avoid damaging or impairing the exhaust catalyst for emission control. Yes, No. 🤔🤔🤔
i’m not a engineer but I just cannot conceive how big ole semi truck 18 wheelers are going to be able to be manufactured to handle a 0W oil. Of course not being an engineer, I could be way way wrong so please let me know. Which also begs the question, what in fact is the largest displacement engine in existence that uses a 0W oil?
Great point. So I think that the 0W's are most likely being applied to small displacement engines. 0W's seem to be more common in the European manufactures, which makes sense because the manufacturing tolerances tend to be smaller on those makes.
So is it safe to use an 0W20 oil API SP GF6A on a 4 cyl inline4 non TGDI engine? The manufac actually only requires 0W20 API SN GF5, but I've been experiencing what I believe as a LSPI since it was brand new
Hello, good morning. In a SUV converted with LPG that says the manual API SP, I can put Specification and Approval: API SP, ILSAC GF-6A how about ? engine model : 1.8L - SFG18
Thank you for your offer to, do an informative video, so I have a Chevrolet Cobalt 2013 and it comes with dexos 2 ( Acea c3) from the factory but it was 10 years ago so what do you think could I use GF6 or it is better to stay with Acea c3 my car is gasoline and I live in Russia winter -35 and summer +25
Many Thanks Ho fermato la concessionaria Italiana Toyota la quale stava sostituendo l olio motore della mia autovettura la quale richiede un olio 0-20 SP GF6A utilizzando un olio 0-20 SN C5 dicendomi che era la stessa cosa ?
Hello sir , it’s really nice video and I like it What is better to use liqui moly oil with api sn plus OR Nissan oil with api sp ( both of them are 5w30 fully synthetic )
Would i benefit from switching from 10w40 api sn to 5w30 api sp? I understand it is backwards compatible but is the api sp designation okay even on a wet clutch manual transmission motorcycle?
During 199x Engine works about 300 - 500K km till general repair.... Its 2023 with amazing lubricants with huge amount of parameters inspected, and engines works about 150-250K km. The main reason is sludge and ash on postons and piston rings. WTF..... Looks like bullshit was placed at users ears and mind..l by Marketing. Thank you for trying to explain. There NO difference between mineral and synthetic oil depending manufacturer recommendations to oil raplace . So its doesn't matter whether you use synthetic or minaral.
@@danielsolomon1710 only time I used a special oil was for break in with driven high ZDDP oil. Not a single lobe down yet. Stock spring pressures and stock lift don’t need anything special. 800ppm zinc is good enough after proper break in. And now with SP there’s less calcium surface competition with ZDDP.
@@danielsolomon1710 be careful since HDEO formulas are very different within themselves. For example: base rotella is like 1200 ZDDP but is very high in calcium where as Mobil delvac and Chevron delo are much lower in ZDDP close to cars and the calcium is still high.
Where is the gain for the customer though, direct injection=carbon buildup. 0-16 or 0-20 oil in addition to low tension piston rings=oil consumption. Seems they destroy a previously functioning engine setup, to "save the world" which doesnt need saving anyway. And the money for repairs is spent by the customer. Sorry, this is all BS.
See the chart at 1:30, that’s the benefit. I drive a 2014 Silverado 5.3 with direct injection. I wish carbon buildup wasn’t a thing, I have looked at my valves, they are quite dirty, I have never cleaned them but the engine still performs very well. 160k miles
So ACEA A5BR requires HTHS between 2.9 and 3.5. I don't believe that there are any requirements for HTHS in API SP, aside from the minimums set as part of the oil viscosity classification.
Comience con un correo electrónico de presentación. lubrication.explained@gmail.com. Si conozco sus necesidades, puedo concertar una llamada con un colega de habla hispana para que lo ayude a traducir.
I've got a 2006 lexus gs450h hybrid, and on the manual it says I should use 0w-20. I am keen to know if I can use 0w-16 GF-6B oil. I can't find GF-6A spec of 0w-16 anywhere.
There is no 0w-16 GF-6A. GF-6A was designed to be completely backward compatible, but 0W-16 didn’t exist before then. All 0W-16, 0W-12 and 0W-8 oils will be GF-6B.
@@LubricationExplained that's fine. A mechanic friend is suggesting it's okay to use 0w-16 in my car, but Toyota/Lexus are saying they count vouch for it when I contact them and ask.
i do find it hilarious how “they” got away with the whole “stop-start” bs. Which involves moving parts, which in turn increases wear on the engine over the life of the vehicle, which in turn, causes more waste in the long run, thereby canceling out all supposed short run mpg “savings”. It is hilarious to me that “they” got away with that stupid rule, and also quite saddening that more customers are not aware or informed on such simple mechanical concepts. Oh, right, go ahead and repeat to me the fun marketing lines of how they improved the starter mechanisms to handle many more thousands of start-stop-starts. I love laughing at folks that tow the line like that. 😂. At least there are plenty of places to go get a simple “start-stop” delete installed on the vehicle, well in the States anyway.
Stop-start is absolutely no problem when engineered properly. Hybrids have been stop-starting for over twenty years. When's the last time you heard of someone's Prius having an electric motor failure?
Yeah stop-start isn't so much of a problem once the engine is up to temperature. What can really kill the engine is a lot of very short trips in the modern, small, GDI engines. The fuel dilution produced lowers the oil viscosity, and if the engine never gets up to temperature the fuel doesn't volatilise off. With more and more short trips the oil viscosity continues to decrease....
My 2008 Toyota Matrix spec's 0w-20 oil. Direct injection and turbocharged engines will not last, so we end up buying more cars, for little carbon reduction.
Looking for more structured lubrication courses? Join LE Pro for $30AUD per month (that's about 20USD). lubrication.expert/product/le-pro/
Can the SP grade or the GF-6 grades be used for diesel vehicles with DPF..?
Thank you, nicely done. I am a chemist and subsequently, I was aware of most of these things, but it was never structured for me. I now have a better appreciation for the standards and how they interplay. Ned
Glad it was helpful!
Great information on the new ILSAC GF-6. I really appreciate you uploading this video 😊🙌 I'm excited for when more RUclipsrs upload videos on this new API SP ILSAC GF-6 rating.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for your informative videos. I'm glad to see you that you're getting more subscribers. I particularly appreciate your explanations of oil types and oil additive functions and chemistry - my high school chemistry and physics teacher left a lot to be desired and you do a great job of explaining without over-simplifying.
Maybe it's not in your area of expertise, but I'd love a Gasoline Explained channel or playlist to explain the formulations and additives of modern motor gasoline and dispel a lot of the internet fallacies and myths on that subject.
Thanks! Appreciate the feedback - personally come from a mechanical engineering background so this is the way that we would explain chemistry to anyone that's more mechanically-minded. As for "Gasoline Explained" - that's a great idea. At the moment I'll share the "Engine Oils" playlist with you: ruclips.net/p/PLu1i0eyydBX2L4q2Uk4rBh07n7b_YuU3x but your idea to have a "mythbusters" segment is a really good one. Are there any particular "myths" that you would like to see addressed?
@@LubricationExplained
1.How fast it takes gasoline to break down, particularly to the points that it can cause gum and varnish and where it ceases to provide adequate power or effective ignition? I realize there's a lot of variables, but I love to hear about variables and how they affect things.
2. What is the chemistry behind gum, varnish and sludge formation in gasoline? How do gum, varnish and sludge differ or relate to each other? Does ethanol and additives make it form faster or to a greater extent? How does it chemically interact with the different fuel and engine system materials like plastics, seals, metals, etc.?
3. Are there different types of gum, varnish and sludge? How does their formation relate to engine oil?
4. What levels of gasoline additives are beneficial and at what level can they be an expensive waste or even damaging to gas engines?
5. What does the term "engine deposits" include?
6. Why are there carbon buildup problems in some direct injection engines but not in others?
7. How do gasoline formulations and additives differ between US, Europe, Australia, Asia, etc and for what reasons?
I love to learn, and appreciate expertise wherever I find it, but don't let me push you too far into any project that might take your life out of a healthy balance. Thanks again!
Thank God this Channel exists!
Recently I saw a OW-8 viscosity oil!!!!!!!!!!!!! Madness!!!!!!!!!!!!!
FANTASTIC presentation! Best explanation of new GF six oils I have seen yet! Thank you! And now that we are on our third engine in our GMC Acadia… I will be using this oil. And then leasing a Toyota :-)
Thanks for your kind words!
Thank you for breaking down and explaining the new SP and GF-6 category Rafe. As always well done.
Glad it was helpful!
It would be amazing to see an oil using all this modern tech but without the formula restrictions of catalytic converters.
Basically a modern oil from a first tier oil company but made for old collector vehicles which often have different oil design requirements with flat tappet valve trains, possibly leaded fuel, intermittent storage, moderate rpm. (Low lead avgas is often used in old vintage vehicles car or tractor, partly for protection against exhaust valve-seat erosion but mainly because to avoid costly storage issues and short carburetor life common with the oxygenated fuels sold for modern highway use.)
Racing oils. That's where all the technology is at. They don't have the restrictions of catalytic converters so tend to have much higher levels of ZDDP / other antiwear additives. Although the engines aren't using flat tappets, the higher loads of race engines necessitate a more extensive antiwear pack.
@@LubricationExplained I will look closer at racing oils. I have been under the impression that racing oils are formulated with the assumption of very short drain intervals so they may not be appropriate for something like a classic muscle car engine that is driven on the street or an antique tractor.
As a possible example, race oils might be insensitive to the TBN package. (High TBN mineral deposits would get cleaned during frequent tear downs and TAN wouldn't have time/moisture to be a significant concern relative to many other wear factors.)
Really the vast majority of race vehicles are not in the premier leagues with million dollar sponsors. So many racers use flat tappet engines, as they are much lower cost and a bit lighter for the same strength(high rpm), and generally more reliable than rollers. (A little more friction but also fewer parts to get wrong.)
Roller based valve trains are primarily a way to meet fuel efficiency and emissions standards. Thus many motorcycle engines, like amateur racers, do not use rollers. (Insignificant friction relative to air drag. And unlike cars, moto fuel use hasn't been regulated in most places.)
Though motorcycle specific oils must also consider wet-clutch performance and act as transmission gear lube, because the most common configuration uses crankcase oil for all three parts.
Excellent vid. Thanks. Amazing how oil has improved. SL was so good already.
Glad you enjoyed it
Just because thin oil is more efficient in Japan, some manufaceturer force the same viscosity to every country, even at tropics. As result, many motorcycle in my country have to change oil at 20% of suggested oil change periode because the oil already ruined. Many gets fuel dilution and depleting oil problems too. Damaged piston and cylinder are not rare.
There's definitely second order effects. In most countries previous designation lubricants should be available as well.
@@LubricationExplained I live in Indonesia. There is no second option. Many Japanese brand recommend same oil viscosity as Japan. Honda Motorcycle CEO even try to force 10W30 globally.
great information on the new gf-6 standards. thanks.
Thanks!
Extremely helping. Thank you!
No worries Jorge! Hope you can use the info. 😊
Perhaps another video explaining the difference between so called cheap oil and brand named oil, for Example Costco oil and say Mobile 1 extended performance that I use in my F150 turbo. Good video that prompted me to ask this question
Good idea!
SP addresses LSPI, but BMW LL04 blows it away in wear protection, sludge protection, deposit protection, soot thickening, aftertreatment compatibility and fuel economy. Oxidative thickening is the same (Lubrizol Specification Comparison tool). SP is only 'much better' in one area and worse in all others.
You act as if all SP oils produce the same WEAR. This is simply false in every way…
some oil cans are stamped API SP/RC. "RC" stands for "Resource Conserving". it has additionnal certifications compared to the regular API SP.
Recently some manufacturers have brought out a 0w-8 oil, an even lower viscosity than 0w-16! I assume also under GF-6B, although it may not be. Thanks for the interesting and informative video.
That's Toyota. And they're using a LOT of molybdenum to get there. Really interesting.
I saw a YT video where someone bought a new Toyota Corrolla (2023?) that required 0W-8. Even the dealer didn't carry it!
Surprisingly some mineral oils meet Sp standard.
Thanks for the amazing information.
Do you think I can use 0W20 in my 2014 Toyota Camry if I live in very extreme hot weather above 122F. My Owner's manual recommends using any oil viscosity from 0W20 to 20W50, and they did not specify and specific viscosity!
I use Amsoil signature series 100% synthetic 5W30 right now. It is API: SP, ILSAC: GF-6, and Acea: A5/B5
To be honest, you probably can - but if you've been using the 5W-30 with no issues I'd stick with that. The fuel economy benefits of moving to a 0W-20 are going to be pretty marginal.
Dropping calcium additives from 1200ppm to 800ppm equal to reduction by 1/3. From 2005 to 2015, companies like BMW, Toyota, VW, KIA and few others have somehow messed up designs of their pistion-pistion rings. This leads to high engine oil consumption of >0.5 quart per 1000 miles. These "consumed oils" and their additives will eventually get into top of pistons and later onto catalyst. Logically, this will quickly lead to failing of MOT test. Good engines should not be consuming more than 1 quart engine oil per 6000 miles. Regards.
GM did the same with their V8, lots of oil burning in those engines, design most likely
In your last graphic/illustration depicting the DONUT, it shows the new API Service SP, as well as the SN PLUS. I thought the SN PLUS was just an interim rating, pending SP introduction. Am I missing something?
Excellent!
Thanks!
Great information
Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Direct Injrction only + turbo is a bad combination for disasters, requires due diligence in routine maintenance. I've been using Shell Helix ultra 5w-40 which was recently API SP certified, worked well so far for the N55. Noticed Nulon Apex+ and Gulf Western - some 5w-30 meet API SP, hopefully they'll help the Skyactiv-G last. Bit l bit longer. Can't find good cars like GH Mazda6 with MZR (port injection), dual injection might be a good alternative but complexity isn't going to help even if they are made by Toyota 😮
Excellent video. Do you have any thoughts on low/mid SAPS oils and whether or not we have achieved parity from a wear perspective with full SAPS oils? Should one always stick with full SAPS if they have no emissions equipment to protect?
this channel is awesome. hope you dont mind me sharing these videos to my oil nerds facebook page.
Please do! And let us know if there’s a specific subject you’d like covered.
@@LubricationExplained how are newer hdeos protecting flat tappet valve trains with lower zddp? chevron delo ck-4/sn comes to mind. it has lower zddp than ever before but still meets so many specs by manufacturers. how do they do it?
Very interesting video. Thanks very much for uploading.
Glad you got something out of it!
the 'shield' will likely be used for the 0W-12 oil which will be out in a year or two.
Really useful video - Thank you!
Thanks Simon!
API SN, RC/ILSAC GF-5 . 5w30. Recommend. But API SP, ILSAC GF-6A. 5w30 used. Any problem?
It shouldn't be! The GF-6A standard is backward-compatible.
Nice video mate, thanks 🙏
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video.
So API SP is the same as GF6 right? In terms of benefits for the engine
This video is very informative, thank you very much
Would engine oil with extra zinc but lower viscosity for e.g. 5w20 give the same protection to the engine as engine oil with higher viscosity but less zinc for e.g. 5w30?
The answer is unfortunately "it depends". Theoretically it could, but it really depends on the engine.
In my 2012 Volvo S60 T4 the engine comes filled new with SAE 5W/20 but in the first oil change, the owners manual says “it’s up to you to keep using the SAE 5W-20 or switch to SAE 5W-30.” I live Costa Rica where temperatures seldomly drop to freezing except in the mountain ranges and for hours during the year and have been using SAE 5W-30 despite the fact that the dealer uses SAE 10W-30. I am now using an SAE 10W-30 with no visible down grade in performance nor fuel economy. I replace my oil and filter every 5,000 Km or 3 months…
Fellow crikey Aussie!
I’m well aware of LSPI… i experienced catastrophic engine failure, cracking the piston.
Before purchasing oils I always pay close attention to the specifications and will always buy API-SP due to having a turbo charged 2.0T GDI engine.
However, two of the current oils for eg Nulon long life specifies both API-SP and ILSAC-GF6 .
A simillar oil, Gulf Western only specifies API-SP But no mention of ILSAC-GF6
Given they are both Australian owned oils…essentially they’re both the same?
I understand that both are governing bodies that set standards…
But what does it mean? All oils seem to mention API but not all mention ILSAC (International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee)
So if it doesn’t mention then it doesn’t meet their standard or can you assume it does, given the mention of api?
Would be good to explain what they mean by ASH content and what it is. Also how if at all do the new oils reduce the chance of intake, intake valve and turbo carbonization?
GDI engines require low ash content. Is that to reduce wear or carbonization from crankcase vapors?
Stop Start is an anti knock system. When does an engine start overheating? Idling in gear at a stoplight.
Thank you for such a good content. good work !
why viscosity 5w_40 not approved from ilsac???
Still looking motorcycle oil with api SP :(
So most motorcycle oils probably aren't going to get the SP designation. If there's any friction modifiers in the formulation they interfere with the wet-clutch system on a motorbike.
Is it possible that oils which pass the AP-SN tests be able to provide equal protection to engine with lower HTHS and viscosity value? For example, 10w50 oil that meets API-SP can become a substitute for 10w60 oil that only meets API-SL?
Hi, thanks a lot for share your knowledge in the comprehensively way. I have a question. All this specs in SN+/SP ILSAC GF-6 help to reduce the consumption, right? Or I always see a high consumption in GDIs? And what is the difference or aggregate of GM dexos? Thanks again
Are you saying it's been hard for Oil Manufactures to create a ow-16? I'm just curious on why some brands like Valvoline make it but some other popular brands dont.
Great question. I think the market is pretty small for 0W-16 at the moment, so many manufacturers are probably waiting until there is wider adoption before they dive in.
Can you explain the resource conserving aspect of API SP-RC? I see some oil listed as API SP, and some listed as API SP-RC. and to confuse things further I see oils listed as ILSAC GF-6a and API SP, but that same oil will not be listed as API SP-RC. So, what is the RC component and why are some manufacturers omitting it from their oil even though the oil seems to meet the RC spec.
Good video, thanks.
Glad you liked it!
GREAT UPDATE. Thanks ... so we Boron antiwear additives be sufficient to protect flat tappet engines ... or should we stick to SM rated or lower, or special designations by manufacturers who might specifically add extra Zinc (meaning phosphoous) given that Cat issues are not big for older engines.
If you can find SL grade it will be better for flat tappet
Amsoil signature series seems to exceed this? Or is that nonsense?
SP and GF-6 only set minimum standard, so yes, there will be plenty of motor oils that can exceed this performance.
sound like you reading out side packing too much. you need a "lab test."
it can claim everything, but nothing.
@@hom2fu it is my go to brand
What about chemistry for SN towards SP evolution ?
BimmerN53
Get rid of low tension piston rings & low tension oil scrapper rings. I think ICE must be designed to have maximum engine oil consumption of 0.1litre for every 1 litre engine capacity for every 1000km travelled, doing at 100km/hr and the engine had done total of 50,000km.
Basically a 2 litre capacity ICE should not be consuming more than 0.2litre of engine oil after travelling 1000km at 100km/hr.
Otherwise it is pointless trying to limit calcium or zinc to 1000ppm in trying to avoid damaging or impairing the exhaust catalyst for emission control. Yes, No. 🤔🤔🤔
Great video, is the new SP-GF6 on par with the Acea A3/B4. Is the GF6 good for tgdi engines?
i’m not a engineer but I just cannot conceive how big ole semi truck 18 wheelers are going to be able to be manufactured to handle a 0W oil. Of course not being an engineer, I could be way way wrong so please let me know. Which also begs the question, what in fact is the largest displacement engine in existence that uses a 0W oil?
Great point. So I think that the 0W's are most likely being applied to small displacement engines. 0W's seem to be more common in the European manufactures, which makes sense because the manufacturing tolerances tend to be smaller on those makes.
ohhhh ok makes sense. Thank you!
So is it safe to use an 0W20 oil API SP GF6A on a 4 cyl inline4 non TGDI engine?
The manufac actually only requires 0W20 API SN GF5, but I've been experiencing what I believe as a LSPI since it was brand new
Without knowing the specifics, most likely yes. GF-6 oils are designed to be backward compatible.
Hello, good morning.
In a SUV converted with LPG that says the manual API SP, I can put Specification and Approval: API SP, ILSAC GF-6A how about ?
engine model : 1.8L - SFG18
Thank you for your offer to, do an informative video, so I have a Chevrolet Cobalt 2013 and it comes with dexos 2 ( Acea c3) from the factory but it was 10 years ago so what do you think could I use GF6 or it is better to stay with Acea c3 my car is gasoline and I live in Russia winter -35 and summer +25
Many Thanks Ho fermato la concessionaria Italiana Toyota la quale stava sostituendo l olio motore della mia autovettura la quale richiede un olio 0-20 SP GF6A utilizzando un olio 0-20 SN C5 dicendomi che era la stessa cosa ?
Hello sir , it’s really nice video and I like it
What is better to use
liqui moly oil with api sn plus
OR
Nissan oil with api sp
( both of them are 5w30 fully synthetic )
Can we use 5w-30 API SP GF-A oil in 1000cc 3 cylinder cars 50k driven? Non turbo engine
Does a lower viscosity equal a higher burnoff rate?
So more topoffs between oil changes?
Would i benefit from switching from 10w40 api sn to 5w30 api sp? I understand it is backwards compatible but is the api sp designation okay even on a wet clutch manual transmission motorcycle?
During 199x Engine works about 300 - 500K km till general repair....
Its 2023 with amazing lubricants with huge amount of parameters inspected, and engines works about 150-250K km. The main reason is sludge and ash on postons and piston rings.
WTF.....
Looks like bullshit was placed at users ears and mind..l by Marketing.
Thank you for trying to explain.
There NO difference between mineral and synthetic oil depending manufacturer recommendations to oil raplace .
So its doesn't matter whether you use synthetic or minaral.
My Suzuki Jimny 2019 i running on SN 0W16 GL5 in the original Suzuki ECSTAR oil. Can i replace it with the GL6B?
Why does the API donut have SN and SP PLUS on it?
Reduce engine size and how long it will last.
I wonder if these new oils are even more friendly to flat tappets after break in?
Nope, SL is the best for Flat Tappets
@@danielsolomon1710 never had an issue with off the shelf oil on 30+ classic cars I’ve had since 2014
@@danielsolomon1710 only time I used a special oil was for break in with driven high ZDDP oil. Not a single lobe down yet. Stock spring pressures and stock lift don’t need anything special. 800ppm zinc is good enough after proper break in. And now with SP there’s less calcium surface competition with ZDDP.
@@Gleone58 I use HDEO in my gasoline engine because it keeps my engine super clean, cooler & longer OCI thanks to high TBN
@@danielsolomon1710 be careful since HDEO formulas are very different within themselves. For example: base rotella is like 1200 ZDDP but is very high in calcium where as Mobil delvac and Chevron delo are much lower in ZDDP close to cars and the calcium is still high.
Can i use API SP when 2016 Lexus requires API SN ??
Where is the gain for the customer though, direct injection=carbon buildup. 0-16 or 0-20 oil in addition to low tension piston rings=oil consumption. Seems they destroy a previously functioning engine setup, to "save the world" which doesnt need saving anyway. And the money for repairs is spent by the customer. Sorry, this is all BS.
See the chart at 1:30, that’s the benefit. I drive a 2014 Silverado 5.3 with direct injection. I wish carbon buildup wasn’t a thing, I have looked at my valves, they are quite dirty, I have never cleaned them but the engine still performs very well. 160k miles
So can i replace my api sn to api sp?
Yes that's correct. SP is backward compatible.
@@LubricationExplained thank you
Would API SP have HTHS as good as ACEA A5B5 oil?
So ACEA A5BR requires HTHS between 2.9 and 3.5. I don't believe that there are any requirements for HTHS in API SP, aside from the minimums set as part of the oil viscosity classification.
@@LubricationExplained So, does it mean A5/B5 would provide better engine protection than API SP and GF-6A engine oil?
Como se te puede contactar para una charla en Español con traductor?
Comience con un correo electrónico de presentación. lubrication.explained@gmail.com. Si conozco sus necesidades, puedo concertar una llamada con un colega de habla hispana para que lo ayude a traducir.
@@LubricationExplained Gracias . Somos distribuidores de lubricantes en Panama.
@@motorplus6662 ¡Por favor envíe un correo electrónico para que pueda contactarlo!
I use vegetable oil. Cheap change every 5k.👀
Every 5 k micromiles, nicea nd flavour backed iron cake
I can't seem to find any GF-6A 0w-16 oil. Has anyone been able to find any?
I've got a 2006 lexus gs450h hybrid, and on the manual it says I should use 0w-20. I am keen to know if I can use 0w-16 GF-6B oil. I can't find GF-6A spec of 0w-16 anywhere.
There is no 0w-16 GF-6A. GF-6A was designed to be completely backward compatible, but 0W-16 didn’t exist before then. All 0W-16, 0W-12 and 0W-8 oils will be GF-6B.
@@LubricationExplained that's fine. A mechanic friend is suggesting it's okay to use 0w-16 in my car, but Toyota/Lexus are saying they count vouch for it when I contact them and ask.
i do find it hilarious how “they” got away with the whole “stop-start” bs. Which involves moving parts, which in turn increases wear on the engine over the life of the vehicle, which in turn, causes more waste in the long run, thereby canceling out all supposed short run mpg “savings”. It is hilarious to me that “they” got away with that stupid rule, and also quite saddening that more customers are not aware or informed on such simple mechanical concepts. Oh, right, go ahead and repeat to me the fun marketing lines of how they improved the starter mechanisms to handle many more thousands of start-stop-starts. I love laughing at folks that tow the line like that. 😂. At least there are plenty of places to go get a simple “start-stop” delete installed on the vehicle, well in the States anyway.
Stop-start is absolutely no problem when engineered properly. Hybrids have been stop-starting for over twenty years. When's the last time you heard of someone's Prius having an electric motor failure?
Yeah stop-start isn't so much of a problem once the engine is up to temperature. What can really kill the engine is a lot of very short trips in the modern, small, GDI engines. The fuel dilution produced lowers the oil viscosity, and if the engine never gets up to temperature the fuel doesn't volatilise off. With more and more short trips the oil viscosity continues to decrease....
My 2008 Toyota Matrix spec's 0w-20 oil. Direct injection and turbocharged engines will not last, so we end up buying more cars, for little carbon reduction.