If you like hearing from engineers and experts, check out our playlist of different interviews we have done covering a variety of topics: ruclips.net/p/PL8PJw4jHcHhcuG1ZPBGWH9FZL8AZhsUEF
Just what I wanted to find. Thank you very much for taking the time to interview and share. If at all possible, could you share just how you go about landing these interviews
Lifetime transmission fluid? "Lifetime" is as long as it passed the warranty period, the OEMs are fine with it. I always change my trans fluid (and filter, if equipped) every 25,000 to 30,000 miles. 208,000 miles and counting on my 2004 4runner and it runs like new. Fluid is cheap, transmission replacement isn't.
Agreed, but so sadly, today, fluids are no longer so cheap. A synthetic change and filter ( no labor included) can now run 90 bucks in materials. I realize and accept that is must cheaper than 5 grand and labor for a trans, but synthetic wonder oils do come with a price... and yes, the pun is intended.
Great information. Maybe with a naturally aspirated engine you can follow the book in the glove box. Not so with these twin turbos, not if you plan to keep it running. Manufacturer says blend and every 7500. Nope, way too long unless your running something like Redline or royal purple full synthetic. Otherwise, 3-5 k max and dump it. Your car will love you for it.
Hey Tim good vid. I am an oil tech junkie so this was good. I think the next step is to maybe get someone on regarding oil filters and air filters are a good one too! There is a cool RUclips channel called ProjectFarm, he does all kinds of product testing, and has many fascinating tests on motor oils.
Hi Tim, love these technical videos of late 👌🏻 Thank you for picking these great guests from the industry and putting these together. The jargon for oil, as in petrochemical products as opposed to oil as in lubricants, is mineral oil and the other is lubricant. Another point I got from this is that the API is descriptive, not prescriptive. That is they set the functional requirements for their products, and allow lubricant manufacturers to meet those functional requirements, or performance benchmarks, as they wish. They are not getting involved at all in the execution, not being prescriptive. Hence the unexpected answer regarding mineral based oils vs synthetics. They are agnostic.
When I was a kid I worked at a gas station and we had used oil that has been and shipped to us in 55 gallon drums and we carried a metal rack that held 6 glass bottles wit a screw on funnel cap and we sold a ton of it .
Timing chain wear issues have been a problem since MFGs starting increasing oil change intervals.... Timing chains were the first issue to show there ugly heads with leaving oil in over 3000 miles... Good to hear this issue is being addressed. The majority of people believe that the MFGs required oil change intervals is good enough for a long engine life and that’s not always the case. But that is nothing more than sales BS. As in look how low the cost of ownership is for our vehicles..... At least in the short term... LSPI is any vehicle witch is getting better power and milage by advancing the timing and causing ping... Because MPG is very important to MFGs , the easiest way to get more power and MPG is by having more timing at lower RPM.... AMSOIL has addressed LSPI long ago with there signature series oil. And no transmission fluid does NOT last for the life of the car/truck... So get it changed or pay the price.....
Tim, Your guest was very diplomatic but he did insist that the idea that 'oil is oil' is not accurate. I would have liked to hear more details about the lifespan of oil and its relationship to the quality of oil filter being used.
Adding thicker oil in the old days was for a different kind of knock. You're talking about rod knock, or rod bearing knock, caused by too much clearance between the bearings and crank journals and/ or piston pins. The SP oils are for pre-ignition in the combustion chambers, which is also sometimes referred to as knock or ping. The old oils are putting too much oil vapor back into the combustion chambers (PCV) and the vapor spontaneously ignites from the high pressure/temperature of the air packed in to the combustion chamber by the turbo. The oil vapor/hot air lignites too early, spiking the combustion chamber pressures beyond what the metals can endure over time.
@@Pickuptrucktalk old truck engines were so different! My first was a 59 GMC w/ a straight 6 and three on the tree. Manual choke, no starter solinoid, no PCV, distributor with points, etc. Lug the engine and it'd ping like crazy, set the timing wrong it'd ping like crazy, or not shut off when I turned the key off. Sure wish I still had that old truck!
@@Pickuptrucktalk BTW, Vortec engines (I believe all LS based engines too) have an o-ring in the oil pump pickup tube that goes bad over time. If you put heavier oil in the engine to help a rod knock or rocker tic it can make things much worse! The heavy oil in the pan is harder for the pump to suck into its inlet (particularly on cold starts) which can pull air past the o-ring in the pickup tube and really screw your engine up!
My only problem with this is that I’m a Ford fanboy and my 5.4 3V is recommended to have 5W-20 by Ford. I know if I hadn’t switched to 5W-30 I would have seen the dreaded VVT ticking and eventual failure. I guess all I’m trying to say is that a little research goes a long way. Ford recommends 5W-30 everywhere else. Just make sure that you’re following the manufacturers recommendations but do it in a smart way..
@Boco LWN they are vented usually to the air filter but sometimes just a vent tube out in the open depends how a vehicle was made. Dust can get in over time.
Boco LWN Transmissions May not have to deal with blowby, but engines don’t not have to deal with clutch plate material otherwise known as “dust”. This dust wrecks havoc on valve bodies,shift solenoids ,and all internal parts such as one way sprags, needle and roller bearings , thrust bearings and planetary gear sets add metal and sheer loading to the oil .... an engine also doesn’t have to deal with torque convertor sheer loading and heating as well....
Why should we be thankfull? The court decision mearly open the door for more confussion. Full Synthetic Oil is not the same as 100% PAO Synthetic Oil! How is the customer too know the differance if not marked on the bottle "GROUP III SYNTHETIC OIL" OR "GROUP IV PAO OIL? Foturnatly almost all oil on the market is Group lll oil.
@@markwarnberg9504 when I say that we should be thankful I was just sarcastic, it is because of them that we get a lower grade of synthetic oil and this is why I won't buy anything Castrol.
@@budblack3588 Sorry I did not catch the sarcasim. We cannot blame Castrol for the mess, they are in buisness trying to make a $. It´s the court ruleing that was messed up. As to the lower grade....like i said many times, if it meets the API/ILSAC standard recomended by the manufactuer the oil is ok to use, it is the price that determines my choice of oil.
Yes, Group III base oils at 50% price of POA base oil at 80% of POA performance capability does make sense. Especially if you are going to change the engine oil at every 7500 miles or less. 😂😂
If you have a truck you most likely Towing trailers I promise you can you do fluid every 40,000 miles drain and fill with the correct dealer fluid and you will never have a problem for 200,000 miles after that anything can happen
I love these type of videos. They certainly help to explain the world (more specifically the products/vehicles) we live in from an engineering point of view. Love your channel.
thats pretty awesome to have this available to consumers and help with longevity of engines and possibly save consumers a large amount of money in preventing a possible catastrophic engine failure, this is always good news for consumers,👍
Let me tell you Tim, never underestimate the value of a good lube job. The history of lube jobs go back to Ancient Rome where Marcus Maximus a Centurion of great girth used a special fore stroke mix on his spindle. Heard that old boy died with a big smile on his face........😎👍
Use whatever is on the fill cap and stop worrying. The people who designed that modern, sophisticated powerplant know a LOT more than Jeff down at the local shop regarding what SHOULD go into a PROPERLY maintained engine. These are NOT your father or grandfathers old "loose" small block.
I just get the Amsoil 0w40 signature series for my car. Cannot wait to try this stuf out! I mean the oil is approved for Nissan Gt-r, so guess I'll be good🙂
Some cars have no dip stick for trans you have to drain it and measure the fluid that came out and you put that much back in and that’s just crazy and I drain my trans 30-50 K .
Those engines that have Plasma Spray bore coating for their cylinder sleeve have to use 0W20?. If yes then car manufacturer need to put in a clear cut reason in their handbook. "This engine comes with Plasma Spray bore coating for its cylinders that need API SN or API SP 0W20 engine oil". No?
I was talking to a Chevrolet mechanic one time about the 3.6 L engine and stretched timing chains. Actually I was in a bar and ran into him. I asked him if I was going to have a stretched timing chain. Mine was in a GMC, but the same engine. He said that every stretched chain that they have ever got was because of neglected oil changes. This was at least 5 years ago, so maybe they have made improvments since then, especially the Dexos full synthetic oils.
if you want the 3.6 to run as it should use the revised version of AC Delco Dexos 1 GEN 2 oil only. I have a 2018 4.3 with 78,000+ miles and have tried several other Dexos 1 Gen 2 (Approved ) oils. None of them make the AFM operate as it should.
GM was a where of timing chain issues with extended oil change intervals. They actually re-flashed a bunch of vehicles ECMs to shorten the oil change interval. Timing chain stretch was a big issue when MFGs changed to there crazy long oil change intervals. Goes to show you that today’s oils are NOT as good as the MFGs think.....
Thanks to Pickup Truck Plus SUV Talk for having me on as a guest. I hope I provided some useful information! If you'd like to learn more, here are a few links: API Announces Improved Engine Oil Standards www.api.org/news-policy-and-issues/news/2019/06/05/api-announces-improved-engine-oil-standards
Current Oil Categories www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil/eolcs-categories-and-classifications/oil-categories Engine Oil Licensing and Certification System (EOLCS) www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil Aftermarket Audit Program (AMAP) www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil#tab-monitoring-and-enforcement Motor Oil Matters motoroilmatters.org/
Great video and loads of info. Remember the ole STP, about 150W. Worked goof in those old oil burners. Now a days we have SN, SM SP, GP5, GP6 LPI, WTF?
Crude oil, oil extracted from the ground are basically group one, two and three. True 100% synthetic are group 4 and 5 made in a laboratory, Hydrocracking crude oil Does not make it a 100% synthetic oil, at the end of the day is still crude oil
Yes, indeed! I will try out Amsoil signature series 0w40 oil in my Opel. If it works in an european car, it should work in yours too. Just respond me after 3-4 days, until then I will change it and I will give my honest unbiased opinion, but the oil is approved for Nisaan Gt-r, so I think I've made a great choice, also it is 100% synthetic, unlike most of the '' fully'' synthetic oils! I just want the best protection, and for 30$ more than the other oils I think it is worth it! Also I will change the oil filter twice and I will try to run that oil for 20,000 kms atleast to feel how it performs and more!
Just figure out how to get General Motors to make an LS motor that doesn't drink oil at a ridiculously high rate. It was unheard of 30 to 40 years ago to have an engine oil that you had to add a quart in less than 3500 miles or so. It is not unusual to have an LS engine that drinks a quart and seven hundred to a thousand miles. I know that's within standard. But that's exemplary of either putting the wrong oil in it during break in, for more than likely using improper oil control or oil control tolerances within the engine.
44 Hawk that has to do with the AFM not the engine it’s self. I have had a lot of them and the 06 and older almost never used any oil. 07 and up that’s a different story lol
@@raymond80hr I had heard that, the problem is is that the claim is that it only causes high oil consumption after it has caused a problem with oil rings by Spring too much oil up under the Pistons. Which I'm not understanding because the engines are using oil at a high rate from the first day of purchase. However GM has relented and said this may indeed be an issue. The other problem I have is why in the world did they design an engine that sprays that much oil up into the rotating assembly. It is still a design flaw if that's the issue. I have never agreed that shutting off cylinders is a better way to say fuel then defueling the engine. You have a lot of latitude on How Lane you can run an engine when it's not required to provide torque. And that will save as much if not more fuel than shutting off four of the cylinders requiring the other four to do much more work even though torque requirement is lower.
Some oils that are labeled synthetic are actually hydro treated petroleum based oil that are meeting synthetic standards this has been allowed by the courts
Wondering if its safe to mix GF-5 leftover oil from my last oil change with new GF-6 one for upcoming oil change? Both are same brand/grade, just difference in GF standards. Let me know. TIA
GM vehicles with the OLM have high failure rates in regards to timing chain failures. And the oils were SN rated when those engines were entroduced. It was overrated for the protection of thay engine. The OLM algorythm was a misnomer.
Hmm... I would lean on what he said to follow your owner's manual. On the gasoline into the oil pan, that I'm not sure he nor I would have an answer to.
Cool video thanks for sharing. If you were going to buy a New Two Wheel Drive Truck. Which truck would you buy? I'm just looking for the average everyday old man's truck. Stay well & safe.
Hmm... I’d take a hard look at Ram with that hybrid. Also, the Chevy is pretty good, but they use the older engine in their base 2 WD trucks. That engine is fine, but Ram’s base engine is better. You could go Ford and their 2.7L EcoBoost. That’s a fun truck as well to drive around.
@@Pickuptrucktalk Thank you for replying to my post. I looked at a Ford F150 XL. I liked it. But when did some research? Ford puts Plastic oil pans and oil plugs on their newer trucks. What about the Chevrolet using older engines? How old are they? Will they last as long as the costlier trucks?
@@thomastommy1192 Let's first talk about these plastic oil pans and plugs. This sounds like it is a problem for you. I wonder why? Flip this idea for a minute and consider maybe Ford is onto something with this. An oil pan that doesn't rust, is lighter and one that could very well be stronger than the metal ones. This would be something you would want then, right? We are seeing a variety of mixed metal strategies on trucks these days. For example, the new F-150 has aluminum body panels. You didn't skip a beat on that, but got stuck on a plastic oil pan? The Toyota Tacoma has had a plastic composite bed for over a decade. New GMC Carbon Pro trucks have carbon fiber which you'll need a sledge hammer and a full day to try to even leave a mark on. My point is don't get hung up on plastic oil pans since everyone is using different materials. Frankly, Ford might be onto something and the whole industry might change with them. Onto the Chevy question. The 2019 model was a new year for Chevy trucks and what they see as upgraded 5.3L V8 engines. This has many new features including the latest DFM system allowing for cylinder deactivation with 17 different combinations to turn off cylinders. It is paired with an 8-speed transmission. So far, the 8-speed has had some concerns among owners. Engine reliability is all about maintenance. One engine won't last longer than another off the lot. There is really no way to make that claim. If you take care of the engine properly, it'll take care of you. I hope that helps.
You can get either 5w30 or 5w20 oil, but on the back of the oil container it has to say: API certified SP ISSAC GF6-A All brands of oil that have this on the back are the updated formula. Hope this helped!
Check your manual. It will state the specs for the oil they want to be used in a particular motor. Using a lower viscosity oil than required may not end up so well.
@@Pickuptrucktalk I get that, just it might be so thin for the older motors it might burn easier? ring tolerances to big? Thats what Im thinking, Im curious to try it out though.
@@bartekmedes8281 I have concerns about how thin oils are getting as well, however, it sounds like the chemical makeup of the oil with the additives actually makes it stronger than old thicker oils. This would make sense to me that it would be fine to use in older engines. The reality is next year, the API will sunset their older license which means the only oil on the shelves will be this new oil standard. You aren't really given a choice it seems.
@@Pickuptrucktalk Except that the lower weight/viscosity may lower oil pressure on old loose engines. Used to be a common thought to put a heavier weight in to build a little pressure. Never truly worked, but every old-timer swore by doing it. Fact is, worn os worn, very little to prop any of that up.
Here in Chile is very difficult to find engine oil SAE 0W20, as recommend for my L83 Silverado with AFM...so I just found SAE 5W30, because here is the more common use engine oil for trucks with V8 engine. My question: My L83 engine is in danger if I still use that kind of oil ( I understand that SAE 5W30 is the oil recommended for LS engines between 1996-2013, not for L83 engines with AFM deactivation cylinders)?
Zulú Mcedo you are perfectly fine to use 5w-30. The 5w-20 is used to gain a better mpg rating on the U.S. Cafe standards. It’s not for protecting the engine. The 5w-30 is actually a better oil to use.
@@Pickuptrucktalk About the performance, I found some curious things: before the first Oil change ( the factory oil with dust and dirt inner from the engine assembly), I´ve got 26,5 mpg/ hwy, with gasoline RON(AKI) Gas95(90)...with Gas97(91-92) I´ve got 26,75 ( the same with Gas98 or Gas93(88-89). After 2700 miles I change new filter AC Delco OEM & oil Shell Helix HX8 Synth Pro AG Dexos 1 Gen2( SAE 5W30) and the performace are similar using just Gas93(88-89)...almost 26,75 mpg/hwy ( All this measures with AFM & 53-56 mph speed)...The Truck is a 2018 Silverado Regular Cab, 5.3 lt V8, LTZ71; The gasoline brands are: In Chile Shell Super 93, Super 95 and V-Power 97 , and Argentinian YPF Nafta Super 95 and Nafta Premium 98.
@@EverydayJ1786 Agree! Not issues, just a preventive worldwide recall for reprogram StabiliTrak ( ending 2019), that include some electronic alert of Airpump misfunction in ABS brakes ( at the beginning of a ride at low speed)...After the reprogramming still appears the brakes alert!
Yup. Every time I watch the Packers play in Lambeau, I do my "the FROZEN TUNDRA OF LAM-BEAU FIELD" and the wife thought it would be great if I had a picture to go with it. So, there it is on the wall! :)
Thick does not mean better. 20 weight seems to be too thin to those fans of thicker oils, but they seem to be stuck on 30 weight. Why not 40 or 60 weight? Crickets. Toyota's legendary and "bullerproof" 22R engine wiped itself out on a regular basis on 10w30 and 5w30 oil. Rose colored glasses. But, I was in a service department back when oils were thicker, and they were not miricle fluids.
@@9ZERO6 Toyota specs different oil viscosities in Mexico than the US, the 0w20 oils and thinner speced, especially in the Southern states, are to meet CAFE standards, that s it
@@Pickuptrucktalk yup, word on the street is AMSOIL is the best, atleast when it comes to publishing testing data they're the most upfront. can you do an investigative report on amsoil ?
paxrom1 I’ll keep it in mind. Hard to find an engineer who will go on record with an outsider viewpoint. If I could find a third-party oil testing lab. Hmm...
If you like hearing from engineers and experts, check out our playlist of different interviews we have done covering a variety of topics: ruclips.net/p/PL8PJw4jHcHhcuG1ZPBGWH9FZL8AZhsUEF
Just what I wanted to find. Thank you very much for taking the time to interview and share.
If at all possible, could you share just how you go about landing these interviews
@@andrewyear81 Through PR contacts at the companies. You just need to find the company and then reach out to them.
Lifetime transmission fluid? "Lifetime" is as long as it passed the warranty period, the OEMs are fine with it. I always change my trans fluid (and filter, if equipped) every 25,000 to 30,000 miles. 208,000 miles and counting on my 2004 4runner and it runs like new. Fluid is cheap, transmission replacement isn't.
Agreed, but so sadly, today, fluids are no longer so cheap. A synthetic change and filter ( no labor included) can now run 90 bucks in materials. I realize and accept that is must cheaper than 5 grand and labor for a trans, but synthetic wonder oils do come with a price... and yes, the pun is intended.
Great information. Maybe with a naturally aspirated engine you can follow the book in the glove box. Not so with these twin turbos, not if you plan to keep it running. Manufacturer says blend and every 7500. Nope, way too long unless your running something like Redline or royal purple full synthetic. Otherwise, 3-5 k max and dump it. Your car will love you for it.
Hey Tim good vid. I am an oil tech junkie so this was good. I think the next step is to maybe get someone on regarding oil filters and air filters are a good one too! There is a cool RUclips channel called ProjectFarm, he does all kinds of product testing, and has many fascinating tests on motor oils.
I’m going to keep finding folks for sure. With COVID this is keeping me busy that’s for sure!
Hi Tim, love these technical videos of late 👌🏻 Thank you for picking these great guests from the industry and putting these together. The jargon for oil, as in petrochemical products as opposed to oil as in lubricants, is mineral oil and the other is lubricant. Another point I got from this is that the API is descriptive, not prescriptive. That is they set the functional requirements for their products, and allow lubricant manufacturers to meet those functional requirements, or performance benchmarks, as they wish. They are not getting involved at all in the execution, not being prescriptive. Hence the unexpected answer regarding mineral based oils vs synthetics. They are agnostic.
When I was a kid I worked at a gas station and we had used oil that has been and shipped to us in 55 gallon drums and we carried a metal rack that held 6 glass bottles wit a screw on funnel cap and we sold a ton of it .
Timing chain wear issues have been a problem since MFGs starting increasing oil change intervals.... Timing chains were the first issue to show there ugly heads with leaving oil in over 3000 miles...
Good to hear this issue is being addressed.
The majority of people believe that the MFGs required oil change intervals is good enough for a long engine life and that’s not always the case. But that is nothing more than sales BS. As in look how low the cost of ownership is for our vehicles..... At least in the short term...
LSPI is any vehicle witch is getting better power and milage by advancing the timing and causing ping... Because MPG is very important to MFGs , the easiest way to get more power and MPG is by having more timing at lower RPM....
AMSOIL has addressed LSPI long ago with there signature series oil.
And no transmission fluid does NOT last for the life of the car/truck... So get it changed or pay the price.....
I believe this is more to do with the vapor the crankcase vapor the PCV system pulls in to burn lowering the effective octane rating of your fuel.
Tim, Your guest was very diplomatic but he did insist that the idea that 'oil is oil' is not accurate. I would have liked to hear more details about the lifespan of oil and its relationship to the quality of oil filter being used.
Interesting. I'm doing a follow up soon on DEF fluid - they work on that fluid as well. I'll see if I can't add in some additional oil questions.
Adding thicker oil in the old days was for a different kind of knock. You're talking about rod knock, or rod bearing knock, caused by too much clearance between the bearings and crank journals and/ or piston pins. The SP oils are for pre-ignition in the combustion chambers, which is also sometimes referred to as knock or ping. The old oils are putting too much oil vapor back into the combustion chambers (PCV) and the vapor spontaneously ignites from the high pressure/temperature of the air packed in to the combustion chamber by the turbo. The oil vapor/hot air lignites too early, spiking the combustion chamber pressures beyond what the metals can endure over time.
DLWoregon thanks for clarifying that. All I remember is adding thicker oil.
@@Pickuptrucktalk old truck engines were so different! My first was a 59 GMC w/ a straight 6 and three on the tree. Manual choke, no starter solinoid, no PCV, distributor with points, etc. Lug the engine and it'd ping like crazy, set the timing wrong it'd ping like crazy, or not shut off when I turned the key off. Sure wish I still had that old truck!
@@Pickuptrucktalk BTW, Vortec engines (I believe all LS based engines too) have an o-ring in the oil pump pickup tube that goes bad over time. If you put heavier oil in the engine to help a rod knock or rocker tic it can make things much worse! The heavy oil in the pan is harder for the pump to suck into its inlet (particularly on cold starts) which can pull air past the o-ring in the pickup tube and really screw your engine up!
My only problem with this is that I’m a Ford fanboy and my 5.4 3V is recommended to have 5W-20 by Ford. I know if I hadn’t switched to 5W-30 I would have seen the dreaded VVT ticking and eventual failure. I guess all I’m trying to say is that a little research goes a long way. Ford recommends 5W-30 everywhere else. Just make sure that you’re following the manufacturers recommendations but do it in a smart way..
So he didn’t want to answer the transmission fluid question, even tho he and everybody knows you have to CHANGE IT IF YOU WANT IT TO LAST ! !
Well in his defense, I did put him on the spot.
I change mine every 70,000 km
Because like most people he has no idea of how long oil lasts....
@Boco LWN they are vented usually to the air filter but sometimes just a vent tube out in the open depends how a vehicle was made. Dust can get in over time.
Boco LWN Transmissions May not have to deal with blowby, but engines don’t not have to deal with clutch plate material otherwise known as “dust”. This dust wrecks havoc on valve bodies,shift solenoids ,and all internal parts such as one way sprags, needle and roller bearings , thrust bearings and planetary gear sets add metal and sheer loading to the oil .... an engine also doesn’t have to deal with torque convertor sheer loading and heating as well....
most synthetic oil that you can buy at the store are all group III and we need to thank Castrol for this step-down from PAO to group III
Why should we be thankfull? The court decision mearly open the door for more confussion. Full Synthetic Oil is not the same as 100% PAO Synthetic Oil! How is the customer too know the differance if not marked on the bottle "GROUP III SYNTHETIC OIL" OR "GROUP IV PAO OIL? Foturnatly almost all oil on the market is Group lll oil.
@@markwarnberg9504 when I say that we should be thankful I was just sarcastic, it is because of them that we get a lower grade of synthetic
oil and this is why I won't buy anything Castrol.
@@budblack3588 Sorry I did not catch the sarcasim. We cannot blame Castrol for the mess, they are in buisness trying to make a $. It´s the court ruleing that was messed up. As to the lower grade....like i said many times, if it meets the API/ILSAC standard recomended by the manufactuer the oil is ok to use, it is the price that determines my choice of oil.
Yes, Group III base oils at 50% price of POA base oil at 80% of POA performance capability does make sense. Especially if you are going to change the engine oil at every 7500 miles or less. 😂😂
If you have a truck you most likely Towing trailers I promise you can you do fluid every 40,000 miles drain and fill with the correct dealer fluid and you will never have a problem for 200,000 miles after that anything can happen
40,000 mile oil changes? You're crazy dude.
@@tartarsauce2601 I was talking about the transmission fluid
I love these type of videos. They certainly help to explain the world (more specifically the products/vehicles) we live in from an engineering point of view. Love your channel.
Thanks!
Excellent video. Heaps of good info that us normal folk are always arguing about at the car meets. 🙂👍🏼
Thanks!
thats pretty awesome to have this available to consumers and help with longevity of engines and possibly save consumers a large amount of money in preventing a possible catastrophic engine failure, this is always good news for consumers,👍
I use royal purple and motorkote as I been using this for years and neither product has let me down yet... nice video as always Tim...👍👍👍
Thanks.
Let me tell you Tim, never underestimate the value of a good lube job. The history of lube jobs go back to Ancient Rome where Marcus Maximus a Centurion of great girth used a special fore stroke mix on his spindle. Heard that old boy died with a big smile on his face........😎👍
😂
I got Motorcraft 5W20 ILSAC GF-6, SP, SN PLUS.
Use whatever is on the fill cap and stop worrying. The people who designed that modern, sophisticated powerplant know a LOT more than Jeff down at the local shop regarding what SHOULD go into a PROPERLY maintained engine. These are NOT your father or grandfathers old "loose" small block.
Apparently it's not as simple as I thought it was. Good video
Thanks.
Very interesting video. My next oil change will be with a GF6A oil. I just changed my oil so it won't be for a while.
friendly reminder. It's probably time for you to put that GF 6A in
I just get the Amsoil 0w40 signature series for my car.
Cannot wait to try this stuf out!
I mean the oil is approved for Nissan Gt-r, so guess I'll be good🙂
I don't think so.
Some cars have no dip stick for trans you have to drain it and measure the fluid that came out and you put that much back in and that’s just crazy and I drain my trans 30-50 K .
Those engines that have Plasma Spray bore coating for their cylinder sleeve have to use 0W20?. If yes then car manufacturer need to put in a clear cut reason in their handbook. "This engine comes with Plasma Spray bore coating for its cylinders that need API SN or API SP 0W20 engine oil". No?
I was talking to a Chevrolet mechanic one time about the 3.6 L engine and stretched timing chains. Actually I was in a bar and ran into him. I asked him if I was going to have a stretched timing chain. Mine was in a GMC, but the same engine. He said that every stretched chain that they have ever got was because of neglected oil changes. This was at least 5 years ago, so maybe they have made improvments since then, especially the Dexos full synthetic oils.
Bar talks get the best information! Thanks for sharing.
if you want the 3.6 to run as it should use the revised version of AC Delco Dexos 1 GEN 2 oil only. I have a 2018 4.3 with 78,000+ miles and have tried several other Dexos 1 Gen 2 (Approved ) oils. None of them make the AFM operate as it should.
GM was a where of timing chain issues with extended oil change intervals. They actually re-flashed a bunch of vehicles ECMs to shorten the oil change interval. Timing chain stretch was a big issue when MFGs changed to there crazy long oil change intervals.
Goes to show you that today’s oils are NOT as good as the MFGs think.....
Thanks to Pickup Truck Plus SUV Talk for having me on as a guest. I hope I provided some useful information! If you'd like to learn more, here are a few links:
API Announces Improved Engine Oil Standards
www.api.org/news-policy-and-issues/news/2019/06/05/api-announces-improved-engine-oil-standards
Current Oil Categories
www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil/eolcs-categories-and-classifications/oil-categories
Engine Oil Licensing and Certification System (EOLCS)
www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil
Aftermarket Audit Program (AMAP)
www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil#tab-monitoring-and-enforcement
Motor Oil Matters
motoroilmatters.org/
Thanks Jeff!
Great video and loads of info. Remember the ole STP, about 150W. Worked goof in those old oil burners. Now a days we have SN, SM SP, GP5, GP6 LPI, WTF?
If the federal government ran as efficient as the API we would have something
Crude oil, oil extracted from the ground are basically group one, two and three. True 100% synthetic are group 4 and 5 made in a laboratory, Hydrocracking crude oil Does not make it a 100% synthetic oil, at the end of the day is still crude oil
But does he change his own or let the kid and the lube shop do it???
We do not have the STARBURST or DONUT here in the EU. Europe has drain intervals of around 10,000km = 6000miles.
When you think of an oil engineer stereotype... 😂
True...i know one pretty well...he was pretty normal.
Can we mix API-SN GF-5 and API-SP GF-6 with same SAE
Yes, indeed!
I will try out Amsoil signature series 0w40 oil in my Opel. If it works in an european car, it should work in yours too.
Just respond me after 3-4 days, until then I will change it and I will give my honest unbiased opinion, but the oil is approved for Nisaan Gt-r, so I think I've made a great choice, also it is 100% synthetic, unlike most of the '' fully'' synthetic oils!
I just want the best protection, and for 30$ more than the other oils I think it is worth it!
Also I will change the oil filter twice and I will try to run that oil for 20,000 kms atleast to feel how it performs and more!
nice i still waiting for more ;)
Just figure out how to get General Motors to make an LS motor that doesn't drink oil at a ridiculously high rate. It was unheard of 30 to 40 years ago to have an engine oil that you had to add a quart in less than 3500 miles or so. It is not unusual to have an LS engine that drinks a quart and seven hundred to a thousand miles. I know that's within standard. But that's exemplary of either putting the wrong oil in it during break in, for more than likely using improper oil control or oil control tolerances within the engine.
44 Hawk that has to do with the AFM not the engine it’s self. I have had a lot of them and the 06 and older almost never used any oil. 07 and up that’s a different story lol
@@raymond80hr is still inexcusable
@@raymond80hr I had heard that, the problem is is that the claim is that it only causes high oil consumption after it has caused a problem with oil rings by Spring too much oil up under the Pistons. Which I'm not understanding because the engines are using oil at a high rate from the first day of purchase. However GM has relented and said this may indeed be an issue. The other problem I have is why in the world did they design an engine that sprays that much oil up into the rotating assembly. It is still a design flaw if that's the issue.
I have never agreed that shutting off cylinders is a better way to say fuel then defueling the engine. You have a lot of latitude on How Lane you can run an engine when it's not required to provide torque. And that will save as much if not more fuel than shutting off four of the cylinders requiring the other four to do much more work even though torque requirement is lower.
...I have an LS 5.3 V8 and it has over 270k miles and it only uses a half quart before oil change comes up on DIC.
44 Hawk i have not taught of it that way before so thank you for that 👍
That was a informative video! Really enjoyed it
Some oils that are labeled synthetic are actually hydro treated petroleum based oil that are meeting synthetic standards this has been allowed by the courts
They need to bring the high zinc CI-4+ back for diesel!
Is that a photo of the ‘67 ice bowl behind you? Bart Star QB keeper for the go ahead score.
Yes sir!
Wondering if its safe to mix GF-5 leftover oil from my last oil change with new GF-6 one for upcoming oil change? Both are same brand/grade, just difference in GF standards. Let me know. TIA
The new oil is backwards compatible, so it's definitely safe to mix them. Have a good evening!
GM vehicles with the OLM have high failure rates in regards to timing chain failures. And the oils were SN rated when those engines were entroduced. It was overrated for the protection of thay engine. The OLM algorythm was a misnomer.
So this 0W-16 is designed for turbo charged GDI engines? Will it help those who have gasoline getting into oil pan?
Hmm... I would lean on what he said to follow your owner's manual. On the gasoline into the oil pan, that I'm not sure he nor I would have an answer to.
Cool video thanks for sharing. If you were going to buy a New Two Wheel Drive Truck. Which truck would you buy? I'm just looking for the average everyday old man's truck. Stay well & safe.
Hmm... I’d take a hard look at Ram with that hybrid. Also, the Chevy is pretty good, but they use the older engine in their base 2 WD trucks. That engine is fine, but Ram’s base engine is better. You could go Ford and their 2.7L EcoBoost. That’s a fun truck as well to drive around.
@@Pickuptrucktalk Thank you for replying to my post. I looked at a Ford F150 XL. I liked it. But when did some research? Ford puts Plastic oil pans and oil plugs on their newer trucks. What about the Chevrolet using older engines? How old are they? Will they last as long as the costlier trucks?
@@thomastommy1192 Let's first talk about these plastic oil pans and plugs. This sounds like it is a problem for you. I wonder why? Flip this idea for a minute and consider maybe Ford is onto something with this. An oil pan that doesn't rust, is lighter and one that could very well be stronger than the metal ones. This would be something you would want then, right? We are seeing a variety of mixed metal strategies on trucks these days. For example, the new F-150 has aluminum body panels. You didn't skip a beat on that, but got stuck on a plastic oil pan? The Toyota Tacoma has had a plastic composite bed for over a decade. New GMC Carbon Pro trucks have carbon fiber which you'll need a sledge hammer and a full day to try to even leave a mark on. My point is don't get hung up on plastic oil pans since everyone is using different materials. Frankly, Ford might be onto something and the whole industry might change with them.
Onto the Chevy question. The 2019 model was a new year for Chevy trucks and what they see as upgraded 5.3L V8 engines. This has many new features including the latest DFM system allowing for cylinder deactivation with 17 different combinations to turn off cylinders. It is paired with an 8-speed transmission. So far, the 8-speed has had some concerns among owners.
Engine reliability is all about maintenance. One engine won't last longer than another off the lot. There is really no way to make that claim. If you take care of the engine properly, it'll take care of you.
I hope that helps.
If my 2012 sonata takes 5w-20/5w-30 what kind(not brand) of this newer oil would I get? I want it because I have a GDI engine.
You can get either 5w30 or 5w20 oil, but on the back of the oil container it has to say:
API certified SP
ISSAC GF6-A
All brands of oil that have this on the back are the updated formula. Hope this helped!
That engine is known to munch rod bearings regardless of oil change intervals or oil type.
18:50 😂😂
What about gasoline in engine oil experience that many turbo DI engines have?
Seems like a combo between truck engineers and oil companies. Sounds like they are working on it.
would it be ok to put in this oil in an older GM or Ford V8? too thin?
Should be. As he said, it is backwards compatible to older types of oil.
Check your manual. It will state the specs for the oil they want to be used in a particular motor. Using a lower viscosity oil than required may not end up so well.
@@Pickuptrucktalk I get that, just it might be so thin for the older motors it might burn easier? ring tolerances to big? Thats what Im thinking, Im curious to try it out though.
@@bartekmedes8281 I have concerns about how thin oils are getting as well, however, it sounds like the chemical makeup of the oil with the additives actually makes it stronger than old thicker oils. This would make sense to me that it would be fine to use in older engines.
The reality is next year, the API will sunset their older license which means the only oil on the shelves will be this new oil standard. You aren't really given a choice it seems.
@@Pickuptrucktalk Except that the lower weight/viscosity may lower oil pressure on old loose engines. Used to be a common thought to put a heavier weight in to build a little pressure. Never truly worked, but every old-timer swore by doing it. Fact is, worn os worn, very little to prop any of that up.
Super tech full synthetic 10w30 high mileage is API SP.
If your engine is knocking, oil will not fix it.
What about a timing belt?
Timing belts runs dry
Here in Chile is very difficult to find engine oil SAE 0W20, as recommend for my L83 Silverado with AFM...so I just found SAE 5W30, because here is the more common use engine oil for trucks with V8 engine. My question: My L83 engine is in danger if I still use that kind of oil ( I understand that SAE 5W30 is the oil recommended for LS engines between 1996-2013, not for L83 engines with AFM deactivation cylinders)?
That is a good question. I think you’ll be ok, but probably not get the same performance.
Zulú Mcedo you are perfectly fine to use 5w-30. The 5w-20 is used to gain a better mpg rating on the U.S. Cafe standards. It’s not for protecting the engine. The 5w-30 is actually a better oil to use.
I've used 5w30 synthetic in my old 2015 l83 5.3 litre engine without any issue
@@Pickuptrucktalk About the performance, I found some curious things: before the first Oil change ( the factory oil with dust and dirt inner from the engine assembly), I´ve got 26,5 mpg/ hwy, with gasoline RON(AKI) Gas95(90)...with Gas97(91-92) I´ve got 26,75 ( the same with Gas98 or Gas93(88-89). After 2700 miles I change new filter AC Delco OEM & oil Shell Helix HX8 Synth Pro AG Dexos 1 Gen2( SAE 5W30) and the performace are similar using just Gas93(88-89)...almost 26,75 mpg/hwy ( All this measures with AFM & 53-56 mph speed)...The Truck is a 2018 Silverado Regular Cab, 5.3 lt V8, LTZ71; The gasoline brands are: In Chile Shell Super 93, Super 95 and V-Power 97 , and Argentinian YPF Nafta Super 95 and Nafta Premium 98.
@@EverydayJ1786 Agree! Not issues, just a preventive worldwide recall for reprogram StabiliTrak ( ending 2019), that include some electronic alert of Airpump misfunction in ABS brakes ( at the beginning of a ride at low speed)...After the reprogramming still appears the brakes alert!
Ice Bowl game...first I noticed that...
Yup. Every time I watch the Packers play in Lambeau, I do my "the FROZEN TUNDRA OF LAM-BEAU FIELD" and the wife thought it would be great if I had a picture to go with it. So, there it is on the wall! :)
Chicago bears rule.!!!!!
there are no free rides
so if these oils give better fuel economy, what s lost?
Thick does not mean better. 20 weight seems to be too thin to those fans of thicker oils, but they seem to be stuck on 30 weight. Why not 40 or 60 weight? Crickets. Toyota's legendary and "bullerproof" 22R engine wiped itself out on a regular basis on 10w30 and 5w30 oil. Rose colored glasses. But, I was in a service department back when oils were thicker, and they were not miricle fluids.
@@9ZERO6 Toyota specs different oil viscosities in Mexico than the US, the 0w20 oils and thinner speced, especially in the Southern states, are to meet CAFE standards, that s it
Thanks for all the nuance political information but frankly we just care who can protect against wear the best at the marketed interval.
You mean which brand is the best?
@@Pickuptrucktalk yup, word on the street is AMSOIL is the best, atleast when it comes to publishing testing data they're the most upfront. can you do an investigative report on amsoil ?
paxrom1 I’ll keep it in mind. Hard to find an engineer who will go on record with an outsider viewpoint. If I could find a third-party oil testing lab. Hmm...
So my question is this if this oil is so much better house is it that car manufacture engines that go to hell with less then 150k miles?
Is it the oil that is causing the issues or another issue?
👍👍👍👍👍
I will never buy any vehicle that requires any oil thinner than 5w-30. At least I can still use 10w-30 in it.
Automobile makers been recommending 0w-20 for over 20years