👍👍👍👍👍 very good idea to create this for flying in smal area. can you please consider a design that does not have a prop st the front. i build small planes fir my don but he crashes and the motor ger always the hit. In am running out if motors abd a pusher of about 25 grams would be fantastic. thanks again for sharing your creations!!
Tim, instead of scoring the convex side of the wing, have you tried scoring the concave side of the wing and then using a pen cap or some kind of tool to make a a groove depression and then using ribs to form the foil, so that you have a smooth top? This is the way I make curved surfaces when I'm using the foam as a fuselage skin.
@@TimMcKay56 and actually you only need to score the Dollar tree foam board if you're leaving the cardboard on if you're taking the cardboard off to just use the foam a la depron mode, just Mark some lines with a straight edge and then run a blunt edge of something to groove it... It's like making kerf cuts on the inside of a board you want to bend
Well I found this video 2 yrs after the plane was built. I will for sure look to see if I can get my hands on the same or similar components, I would really like to build it👍
Kim: It is a brushed motor. In these smaller applications with gearing, older motors work just fine. See my video published today on where to buy www.StevensAero.com Tim
@@TimMcKay56 thank you Tim, i have built a couple from scratch and kit rc gliders, no motors..my first was the Gental Lady in 1988. just started with foam board and love it. i want to build micro slow flyer models with my grandkids out here in northern colorado. - so this is new to me - your videos are very helpful i am ordering from StevenAero today. thanks again
Charles: On earlier videos, I used TurboCAD. Now, I use www.QCAD.org QCAD is a very easy to use and powerful 2D CAD program, cost is around $40 (download from the website). See my video on QCAD tips and tricks. Tim
Hello, Love your posts. Thank you. Complete newbie here. Saw your video on "building a wing in 10 minutes". Would that method work on this plane or would the double surfaced wing be too heavy?
Rennie: Thanks for checking in! The wing in 10 mins method works for “regular size” models, as it is strong but not light. The smaller models (3 ounces), the foam is strong enough. Tim
I always leave the paper on for strength, it seems to me that peeling the paper off is like buying plywood and then delaminate the sheets, much lighter but less strength. I have found that its easy to bend a curve into a wing just by working it over the edge of a desk. Of course in a small plane like yours the added strength of the paper might not be needed and the weight savings are more important. I also cover with vinyl tape, even on some small circular flyers (UFO style) but with bigger motors.
Hey Tim, I'm here from your comments in the other video. This is EXACTLY the flight envelope that I was looking for. Are you actually buying from Steven's Aero? First I went over there (actually before you recommended this video based on your other videos) and nothing was in stock, but when I went back a few things were... but then I did the math: - receiver $48-70 - battery $10 each - Motor $20 Charger, additional servos (if you want to experiment with ailerons or flaps or something)... You're easily over $100, and at or over the price of a lot of the ultra micro park fliers RTF and BNF. I almost feel like it doesn't make sense to buy the parts, they're all specific to that setup and don't really interchange with anything else (meaning that I can't use anything I already have or use it with other stuff later). It feels like it makes the most sense to figure out what is in the different ultra micros, buy the cheapest one that has what you want, and take it apart or fly it till you decide you don't like it or break it and hope that you have enough pieces to make something like this out of it.
Mark: Yeah, I hear you. Some of the micro electronic RC components are not cheap. There may be options on Ebay . . . but sometimes the solder joints can be weak, etc., tough to return. I use the electronics for several models in succession, if that helps. But if there are less expensive alternatives out there, please let me know!! Tim
Jeff: For 2D drawings, TurboCAD version does not matter too much. My training videos were done with Ver 8. I really like QCAD.org for 2D drawings. Very easy to use, cost is around $40. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 thank you i need to get a good easy to use CAD program. I like your videos they are very well done and im learning a lot. There is more to this hobby than meets the eye which makes it very interesting. Im building my first plane it is the Lanell a profile foam board design. One hard thing is deciding on the motor to use its enough to drive one crazy lol. Thank you again !
@@TimMcKay56 would you take a look at FREECAD 0.20.1 and see if that would work i downloaded it but trying to figure out how to use it is another thing ? LoL you might be able to easier than me ? It looks good and powerful and its free !
Dumb question, but would it be useful to build a park flyer that could be used for landing practice? I have new RC planes, not really expensive, that I am terrified to fly because I don't have any skills.
Mark: Sure! The bigger airplanes seem to fly a bit better/more predictable with landings. And instructor helps a lot as well. Practice with as little wind as possible, will make flights more of a learning experience. A computer flight simulator, such as RealFlight, is a great help as well. Good luck! Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Thank you sir! I'm thinking about up-scaling a basic flyer to have a bit more weight, and simple spring-wire landing gear. The RealFlight simulator looks like it could save a lot of embarrassment for a noob as well. Thanks again!
Massimo: The short answer is "No". "Any transmitter" is a very broad term. First, the transmitter needs to be on 2.4 GHz (not the older 72 MHz frequencies). Also, some of the older receivers/transmitters can have a hard time binding. Best bet is a newer transmitter and newer receiver. If the brands match (Spektrum transmitter and Spektrum reciever), so much the better. If using a bind plug, ensure it is inserted right side up in the correct receiver port. I love the Spektrum DX6 and AR620, with it's large bind button right on top of the receiver. Tim
I've tried several times to get a 40" span foam flyer that comes in at about 200 grams with the battery. Obviously I'm trying to avoid the FAA registration hassle. So far, my attempts have not given me a very flyable airplane. Polyhedral, so only 3 channels.
One thing I've seen people do with success to lower tail weight is using disposable plates. They aren't very sturdy long-term, but they do the trick for little plates like this.
Barry: I used the ultra-micro motor from Stevens Aero (www.stevensaero.com). Full details are in my video "Where to Buy" published on Oct 11 (yesterday). Tim
Any thoughts on the size / shape of the airfoil and wing if I wanted a flyer like this to move MUCH slower? I'd like to fly in my backyard that has several trees and tight spaces.
Dave: I think the key to backyard flying is to keep the sucker as light as possible. A thicker airfoil may help in this matter, but a light weight model will be the best approach. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 thanks for this. What do you typically use for covering if ultra light is the goal? I've seen tissue paper, saran wrap, and 3mil painters plastic, but have never worked with any of these before.
@@ledgerdc Dave: There are many coverings you can use. If the structure is strong enough, an iron on covering is easy to apply. Check that the word "lite" is somewhere in the name (ParkLite, AeroLite, etc.). I have used saran wrap and a glue stick, works great. Tissue is wonderful, but a bit of work to apply. Tim
Daniel: Yes, you can move the wing further back a bit. That would help with the tail heavy condition, although it might make the model a bit more pitch sensitive. An alternative course would be to make the nose a bit longer, as that would have no effect on pitch sensitivity. Tim
Hello Tim, thanks for this video. Could you please list the electronic parts used here? I mean from the motor to the servos. I need to replicate what I have just seen :-) I anticipate!
Onoja: The brick is at Horizon Hobby. I'll try and paste a link end this note. If the link does not come through, Google AS6410 DSMX 6 channel ultra micro AS3X receiver and ESC. Also, the tech folks at Horizon Hobby are super helpful. Good luck! Tim www.horizonhobby.com/product/as6410l-dsmx-6-channel-ultra-micro-as3x-receiver-with-esc/SPMAS6410L.html?KPID=SPMAS6410L&CAWELAID=320011980000236993&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=97846720982&CATCI=pla-899697922202&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkN78vbf66wIVga_ICh1x1AofEAQYASABEgIRg_D_BwE
Jean-Francois: Your best bet, I'd say, is to check out the micro ready to fly models at www.HorizonHobby.com New ones seem to be coming out regularly, as well. Tim
I had to convert 0.6 oz to grams (17g) so that it would mean something to me. The crazy thing is I'm an American and somewhere around your age, ha ha. When it comes to wingspan and mass I only know metric. With altitude and speed, I only have an inherent feel for feet and mph. Prop size - inches. Bullets - fps. Pressure? PSI or Bar. Will never do Pascals!
Tip for curving foam board (without cutting reliefs); peel the paper off of the concave side (leave paper on convex side). Drag the foam across the edge of your workbench applying pressure to “crush” the foam as you drag.
Tim, if you’ve never watched any of the FliteTest guys instructional videos, you’ll find some great ideas and techniques. Also lots of plans free to download - forum.flitetest.com/index.php?threads/sp0nz-plans-index.17136/ I just built a Corsair with an 80” wingspan, all from foam board.
mr tim, that paper does not come off easy! had to wet the board with dollar store awsome to get it off.....have no idea where you get your foam from.......
Dan: I get my foam from Amazon, Langford and Nichel if I recall. You are correct, the foam is not getting any cheaper. Do check the comments on this video. There are some very good ideas for removing the paper. Tim
👍👍👍👍👍 very good idea to create this for flying in smal area. can you please consider a design that does not have a prop st the front. i build small planes fir my don but he crashes and the motor ger always the hit. In am running out if motors abd a pusher of about 25 grams would be fantastic. thanks again for sharing your creations!!
Alex: Great idea ref a pusher design, will add to my list of projects! Tim
Excellent video again. Thank you for designing these planes and taking the time to make these videos.
Robert: Glad you like them! Tim
Thanks Tim!
👍🏻
Thanks Tim. Gave me a new project for year two of spring quarantine!
Subscribed!
Vok: Appreciate the update, best of luck with your build! Tim
Excelente inventor, Esto es innovación.
👍🏻😊 Tim
super impressed with the flight!
Thanks! Tim
Thanks for for posting.I like the slow flyers,they don't upset people much when flying in a park.
DC: Great point, fully agree. 😃 Tim
Tim, instead of scoring the convex side of the wing, have you tried scoring the concave side of the wing and then using a pen cap or some kind of tool to make a a groove depression and then using ribs to form the foil, so that you have a smooth top?
This is the way I make curved surfaces when I'm using the foam as a fuselage skin.
AMK- Great tip, thanks! Tim
@@TimMcKay56 and actually you only need to score the Dollar tree foam board if you're leaving the cardboard on if you're taking the cardboard off to just use the foam a la depron mode, just Mark some lines with a straight edge and then run a blunt edge of something to groove it... It's like making kerf cuts on the inside of a board you want to bend
Awesome building. If you use a heat gun and bend the foam over a metal pipe there’s no need to score it
Shane: Excellent tip on the heat gun, thanks! Tim
That's super cute!
Thank you! 😊 Tim
Hi Tim, thank you so much! I was wondering whether the second video of the build you mention was available ? Thks again, amazing work
Matthieu: Coming soon, I hope! Tim
Well I found this video 2 yrs after the plane was built. I will for sure look to see if I can get my hands on the same or similar components, I would really like to build it👍
Harold: I have a video on where to buy RC components also. Good first check is www.StevensAero.com Tim
Hi Tim....Love your work. What motor/battery combination did you use?
These micro units have a paired motor and one cell lipo. See www.StevensAero.com Tim
Thank you for sharing your experience :)
No problem 😊 Tim
Any 2 engine foam model plans? Happy to purchase.
Brad: No twins yet, on the to do list. 😁 Tim
Interesting video and nice flight....... Leo
Leo: Appreciate your feedback . . . enjoy! Tim
HA HA, Fun vid Tim.
Thanks! Tim
Hi Tim is this a brushed motor ? with gearbox and prop - are you also getting them at horizon
Kim: It is a brushed motor. In these smaller applications with gearing, older motors work just fine. See my video published today on where to buy www.StevensAero.com Tim
@@TimMcKay56 thank you Tim, i have built a couple from scratch and kit rc gliders, no motors..my first was the Gental Lady in 1988. just started with foam board and love it. i want to build micro slow flyer models with my grandkids out here in northern colorado. - so this is new to me - your videos are very helpful i am ordering from StevenAero today. thanks again
In your video on form build airplanes what cad program doe you use. Can you get it on Amizon?
Charles: On earlier videos, I used TurboCAD. Now, I use www.QCAD.org
QCAD is a very easy to use and powerful 2D CAD program, cost is around $40 (download from the website). See my video on QCAD tips and tricks. Tim
great video, can you share the dihedral angle (or offset), as well as the angle/offset used to create down and to the right thrust?
Jim: I used a half inch dihedral, and a down thrust of around 3 degrees, same for right motor offset.
Good luck! Tim
Hi Tim, how did you install the motor, with glue or tape. Thanks - Jeff.
Epoxy glue seems to work fine for these light models. Tim
Thanks @@TimMcKay56
Hello, Love your posts. Thank you. Complete newbie here. Saw your video on "building a wing in 10 minutes". Would that method work on this plane or would the double surfaced wing be too heavy?
Rennie: Thanks for checking in! The wing in 10 mins method works for “regular size” models, as it is strong but not light. The smaller models (3 ounces), the foam is strong enough. Tim
Hi Tim...
Are those the micro linear servos
Yes, built into the electronic brick. Tim
What are the particulars of the power system?
Robert: It is an ultra micro system, no brand name (China). See www.StevensAero.com Tim
I always leave the paper on for strength, it seems to me that peeling the paper off is like buying plywood and then delaminate the sheets, much lighter but less strength. I have found that its easy to bend a curve into a wing just by working it over the edge of a desk. Of course in a small plane like yours the added strength of the paper might not be needed and the weight savings are more important. I also cover with vinyl tape, even on some small circular flyers (UFO style) but with bigger motors.
G5: Agree with all your points. Vinyl tape is also a neat method to cover. I tried iron-on covering, tended to warp smaller structures. Tim
Hey Tim,
I'm here from your comments in the other video. This is EXACTLY the flight envelope that I was looking for.
Are you actually buying from Steven's Aero? First I went over there (actually before you recommended this video based on your other videos) and nothing was in stock, but when I went back a few things were... but then I did the math:
- receiver $48-70
- battery $10 each
- Motor $20
Charger, additional servos (if you want to experiment with ailerons or flaps or something)... You're easily over $100, and at or over the price of a lot of the ultra micro park fliers RTF and BNF. I almost feel like it doesn't make sense to buy the parts, they're all specific to that setup and don't really interchange with anything else (meaning that I can't use anything I already have or use it with other stuff later). It feels like it makes the most sense to figure out what is in the different ultra micros, buy the cheapest one that has what you want, and take it apart or fly it till you decide you don't like it or break it and hope that you have enough pieces to make something like this out of it.
Mark: Yeah, I hear you. Some of the micro electronic RC components are not cheap. There may be options on Ebay . . . but sometimes the solder joints can be weak, etc., tough to return. I use the electronics for several models in succession, if that helps. But if there are less expensive alternatives out there, please let me know!! Tim
Where can I find the plans? Many thanks.
Keith: I added a link to plans in the Description. Tim
nothing can stop you... you are all the way up... all the way up...
RB: Many thanks! Tim
Which TurboCad version do you recommend for plan drawing ?
Jeff: For 2D drawings, TurboCAD version does not matter too much. My training videos were done with Ver 8. I really like QCAD.org for 2D drawings. Very easy to use, cost is around $40. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 thank you i need to get a good easy to use CAD program. I like your videos they are very well done and im learning a lot. There is more to this hobby than meets the eye which makes it very interesting. Im building my first plane it is the Lanell a profile foam board design. One hard thing is deciding on the motor to use its enough to drive one crazy lol. Thank you again !
Jeff: All good, do check out my QCAD tips and tricks video. 😊 Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Oh awesome i will definitely watch that one thanks Tim !
@@TimMcKay56 would you take a look at FREECAD 0.20.1 and see if that would work i downloaded it but trying to figure out how to use it is another thing ? LoL you might be able to easier than me ? It looks good and powerful and its free !
Dumb question, but would it be useful to build a park flyer that could be used for landing practice? I have new RC planes, not really expensive, that I am terrified to fly because I don't have any skills.
Mark: Sure! The bigger airplanes seem to fly a bit better/more predictable with landings. And instructor helps a lot as well. Practice with as little wind as possible, will make flights more of a learning experience. A computer flight simulator, such as RealFlight, is a great help as well. Good luck! Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Thank you sir! I'm thinking about up-scaling a basic flyer to have a bit more weight, and simple spring-wire landing gear. The RealFlight simulator looks like it could save a lot of embarrassment for a noob as well. Thanks again!
Is it possible to bind any trasmetter to the micro receiver/servo/esc or we need a specific one?
Massimo: The short answer is "No". "Any transmitter" is a very broad term. First, the transmitter needs to be on 2.4 GHz (not the older 72 MHz frequencies). Also, some of the older receivers/transmitters can have a hard time binding. Best bet is a newer transmitter and newer receiver. If the brands match (Spektrum transmitter and Spektrum reciever), so much the better. If using a bind plug, ensure it is inserted right side up in the correct receiver port. I love the Spektrum DX6 and AR620, with it's large bind button right on top of the receiver. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 thanks Tim for tutorial videos and answer. Congratulations for ability and knowledge. Keep on creating magic!
Will do! Tim
I've tried several times to get a 40" span foam flyer that comes in at about 200 grams with the battery. Obviously I'm trying to avoid the FAA registration hassle. So far, my attempts have not given me a very flyable airplane. Polyhedral, so only 3 channels.
Good luck! Tim
One thing I've seen people do with success to lower tail weight is using disposable plates. They aren't very sturdy long-term, but they do the trick for little plates like this.
Vok: Excellent tip, thanks. Tim
I think I will try to build this, nice job. What motor did you use?
Barry: I used the ultra-micro motor from Stevens Aero (www.stevensaero.com). Full details are in my video "Where to Buy" published on Oct 11 (yesterday). Tim
Been away from the hobby for a while.... kinda new to electric. What size music wire did you use? Thanks for the help.
Saludos desde MÉXICO
Greetings from Georgia! Tim
I am new to rc, where can i buy the electronics ?
See my video on where to buy in 2022. Tim
Any thoughts on the size / shape of the airfoil and wing if I wanted a flyer like this to move MUCH slower? I'd like to fly in my backyard that has several trees and tight spaces.
Dave: I think the key to backyard flying is to keep the sucker as light as possible. A thicker airfoil may help in this matter, but a light weight model will be the best approach. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 thanks for this. What do you typically use for covering if ultra light is the goal? I've seen tissue paper, saran wrap, and 3mil painters plastic, but have never worked with any of these before.
@@ledgerdc Dave: There are many coverings you can use. If the structure is strong enough, an iron on covering is easy to apply. Check that the word "lite" is somewhere in the name (ParkLite, AeroLite, etc.). I have used saran wrap and a glue stick, works great. Tissue is wonderful, but a bit of work to apply. Tim
Have some spare parts want to make a plane, thank you.
😊👍🏻 Tim
Instead of adding weight to the nose, could you just relocate the wing slightly back on the fuselage?
Daniel: Yes, you can move the wing further back a bit. That would help with the tail heavy condition, although it might make the model a bit more pitch sensitive. An alternative course would be to make the nose a bit longer, as that would have no effect on pitch sensitivity. Tim
Hello Tim, thanks for this video. Could you please list the electronic parts used here? I mean from the motor to the servos. I need to replicate what I have just seen :-) I anticipate!
Onoja: The brick is at Horizon Hobby. I'll try and paste a link end this note. If the link does not come through, Google AS6410 DSMX 6 channel ultra micro AS3X receiver and ESC. Also, the tech folks at Horizon Hobby are super helpful. Good luck! Tim
www.horizonhobby.com/product/as6410l-dsmx-6-channel-ultra-micro-as3x-receiver-with-esc/SPMAS6410L.html?KPID=SPMAS6410L&CAWELAID=320011980000236993&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=97846720982&CATCI=pla-899697922202&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkN78vbf66wIVga_ICh1x1AofEAQYASABEgIRg_D_BwE
Are kits available or any similar models out there I can purchase?
Jean-Francois: Your best bet, I'd say, is to check out the micro ready to fly models at www.HorizonHobby.com New ones seem to be coming out regularly, as well. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Awesome thank you I'll have a look!
I had to convert 0.6 oz to grams (17g) so that it would mean something to me. The crazy thing is I'm an American and somewhere around your age, ha ha. When it comes to wingspan and mass I only know metric. With altitude and speed, I only have an inherent feel for feet and mph. Prop size - inches. Bullets - fps. Pressure? PSI or Bar. Will never do Pascals!
😊👍🏻 Tim
Tip for curving foam board (without cutting reliefs); peel the paper off of the concave side (leave paper on convex side). Drag the foam across the edge of your workbench applying pressure to “crush” the foam as you drag.
Chris: Great tip, thanks! Tim
Tim, if you’ve never watched any of the FliteTest guys instructional videos, you’ll find some great ideas and techniques.
Also lots of plans free to download - forum.flitetest.com/index.php?threads/sp0nz-plans-index.17136/
I just built a Corsair with an 80” wingspan, all from foam board.
Chris: Fully agree! Tim
mr tim, that paper does not come off easy! had to wet the board with dollar store awsome to get it off.....have no idea where you get your foam from.......
Dan: I get my foam from Amazon, Langford and Nichel if I recall. You are correct, the foam is not getting any cheaper. Do check the comments on this video. There are some very good ideas for removing the paper. Tim
I want one😢
👍🏻😊 Tim