You're oil modifications are good. That will work. The 390 build is a good idea. Your heads are fixable if they are not cracked. Hard seats can be installed. Great content. Thank you, EM.
This will be my first 390. I'm a 460 person but I thought I would give the 390 a chance. I'm currently working on a video of me building the 390. The heads I'm using are the D2TE castings which have induction hardened seats from the factory supposedly. The machine shop I use has been in business for many, many years and he told me that the last two sets of later model FE heads that he tried to put hardened seats in hit water both times. So I'm about afraid to chance removing the induction hardened seats and have them replaced. Thank you for you kind words!
For the most part yes, but I have seen some blocks that would not pass Fords service bulletin on the alignment of the main bearings and and oil passageways. I do it to all of them just to be safe. As far as increasing the flow from the oil pump thru the block increasing the hole size in the block will decrease the turbulence in the oil as it comes thru the block because of the oil pump hole being larger than the hole in the block. I just like be on the safe side of things but lots of these engines went over 100,000 miles with no oiling problems, but some didn't make it 10,000 miles. It just depends on the block casting.
@@jesse75 and what would that reason be? I mean Ford sent out a technical bulletin on checking the main bearing holes against the holes in the block with a drill bit and if they are off so much you was supposed to drill the bearing to make them line up better.
@@BlackLabGarage also in disassembly of hundreds of FE's, 360 and 390's, none of them had main bearing oil feed holes that lined up. It was never necessary in a stock rebuild to do any thing to modify the oil system. It has always been adequate. I've taken many FE'S apart that had near or over 300,000 miles on them. Even running with pounded out valve seats and sludge built up in the heads. " I have seen some blocks that would not pass Fords service bulletin ". That can mean two things. You have access to blocks that have never been run. NOS. Or came across a block that has been run but still put into production by the factory. Now if I was to run a FE in a racing application, I would modify the oil system. My 9 second FE has 119 psi at idle. Extensive modification. Done by the Book from Holman and Moody. But totally unnecessary for a street stocker.
@@jesse75 Yes these blocks had been run. They were production blocks but going by Ford's technical bulletin they shouldn't have been used. But we know how that goes. Don't stop production..lol. I agree with you that there have been FE's run hundreds of thousands of miles with no problems. There has been some that didn't make it 50,000 miles before self destructing but that is rare. I think that is usually a case like above. A block got used in production that shouldn't have been used. But myself I like to keep as much oil on the crank as possible and it doesn't really cost anything but time to make these modifications so I always do it.
I agree with that but also your front main bearing on most Fords will have more wear because of the firing order. 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. Number one and five fire back to back so it will always wear more. Check the front main bearing wear in an old model 302 with 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 firing order against the later 5.0 with the 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 firing order and you will see the later one has less front main bearing wear. Changing the firing order did help.
@@BlackLabGarage true. It's why I always run a Windsor cam in a early 302. I'm building a 302 just now using that split cam from the 69 engine. .418 .448. lift. All early 302's I have dismantled for rebuilding have had a cracked skirt or two and from main bearing wear. And that's been at least a couple hundred of them. I also noticed cam bearings starting to flake and crack. Noticed that also in a 427 FE that I rebuilt recently. The engine still had the original bearings in it.
Авто/Мото
You're oil modifications are good.
That will work.
The 390 build is a good idea.
Your heads are fixable if they are not cracked.
Hard seats can be installed.
Great content.
Thank you, EM.
This will be my first 390. I'm a 460 person but I thought I would give the 390 a chance. I'm currently working on a video of me building the 390. The heads I'm using are the D2TE castings which have induction hardened seats from the factory supposedly. The machine shop I use has been in business for many, many years and he told me that the last two sets of later model FE heads that he tried to put hardened seats in hit water both times. So I'm about afraid to chance removing the induction hardened seats and have them replaced. Thank you for you kind words!
Back in 83 I did a JC Whitney rebuild on a 390 and dropped it in my 68 Mustang. For about $500 I had the fastest car in my town.
The 390 in those cars would scream. Pretty light weight and plenty of horsepower and torque from the 390!
@@BlackLabGarage with the 9” rear with 3.89 gears, it was really fun to drive.
I'd say it was!@@user-zw7ww7kw9c
It's a really good engine and I just don't want to roll it down the highway and ruin it at this point that's why I was hoping I could get ahold of you
I've got four of these trucks three of them have 360s
Get a hold of me? My email is in the description
They are perfect. They are all like that. It's normal. None of that is necessary.
For the most part yes, but I have seen some blocks that would not pass Fords service bulletin on the alignment of the main bearings and and oil passageways. I do it to all of them just to be safe. As far as increasing the flow from the oil pump thru the block increasing the hole size in the block will decrease the turbulence in the oil as it comes thru the block because of the oil pump hole being larger than the hole in the block. I just like be on the safe side of things but lots of these engines went over 100,000 miles with no oiling problems, but some didn't make it 10,000 miles. It just depends on the block casting.
There's a purpose why the holes don't exactly match up.
@@jesse75 and what would that reason be? I mean Ford sent out a technical bulletin on checking the main bearing holes against the holes in the block with a drill bit and if they are off so much you was supposed to drill the bearing to make them line up better.
@@BlackLabGarage also in disassembly of hundreds of FE's, 360 and 390's, none of them had main bearing oil feed holes that lined up.
It was never necessary in a stock rebuild to do any thing to modify the oil system.
It has always been adequate. I've taken many FE'S apart that had near or over 300,000 miles on them. Even running with pounded out valve seats and sludge built up in the heads.
" I have seen some blocks that would not pass Fords service bulletin ".
That can mean two things. You have access to blocks that have never been run. NOS.
Or came across a block that has been run but still put into production by the factory.
Now if I was to run a FE in a racing application, I would modify the oil system.
My 9 second FE has 119 psi at idle. Extensive modification. Done by the Book from Holman and Moody.
But totally unnecessary for a street stocker.
@@jesse75 Yes these blocks had been run. They were production blocks but going by Ford's technical bulletin they shouldn't have been used. But we know how that goes. Don't stop production..lol. I agree with you that there have been FE's run hundreds of thousands of miles with no problems. There has been some that didn't make it 50,000 miles before self destructing but that is rare. I think that is usually a case like above. A block got used in production that shouldn't have been used. But myself I like to keep as much oil on the crank as possible and it doesn't really cost anything but time to make these modifications so I always do it.
Use a m57b oil pump and a C60e hydraulic cam
Forget the 460 and spend the money the 445 stroker kit that will work on the 360 blck
Front main wear means you have too much tension on alternator and power steering belts.
I agree with that but also your front main bearing on most Fords will have more wear because of the firing order. 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. Number one and five fire back to back so it will always wear more. Check the front main bearing wear in an old model 302 with 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 firing order against the later 5.0 with the 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 firing order and you will see the later one has less front main bearing wear. Changing the firing order did help.
@@BlackLabGarage true. It's why I always run a Windsor cam in a early 302.
I'm building a 302 just now using that split cam from the 69 engine. .418 .448. lift.
All early 302's I have dismantled for rebuilding have had a cracked skirt or two and from main bearing wear.
And that's been at least a couple hundred of them.
I also noticed cam bearings starting to flake and crack.
Noticed that also in a 427 FE that I rebuilt recently. The engine still had the original bearings in it.
@@jesse75 I agree. I think the Windsor firing order is better.
390 gold top thunder- bird valve covers what was the first year
I believe the first year was 1963
Can you rebuild a 352 fe for me
Where are you located?