Other engine builders for Cleveland's say just use a larger oil pan. Those Cleveland's pump almost 2 qts per head and cause a starvation issues at sustained high rpms. If youbare using a standard 5 qts pan, then it is only 1 qt left and the oil pump is not even pulling enough oil and creating a vacuum in the system. The vacuum is then dry locking the system that further increases the starvation for oil.
This video answered my question on the last video about what it might hurt so please disregard. You've convinced me that a high volume pump is not only unnecessary, but may actually rob a bit of top end power. I think the cleanup on the oil passages really helps horsepower too because it reduces the amount of resistance the oil pump has when it's driving that oil through the engine. I remember when I did my engine build I found a document on NASCAR engine building that talked about how those guys would pump an abrasive slurry through all the oil and water passages to smooth everything out for this very reason. It was claimed to gain a few net horsepower at the flywheel, and as we know every little bit of power counts in those applications. Conceptually the same as the pumping losses when you have a restriction in the intake or exhaust flow. You may not actually be pumping any more air (or put another way increasing the volume of air a cylinder can pump), but the amount of power it takes to pump that air is less so it puts more of that power out to the crank with each cycle of the piston. I was drinking from a firehose of info at the time I built the engine so I never messed with any of that oil passage stuff, but it was interesting reading for sure.
Porting the oil pump typically gains 20 to 25 PSI without changing or shiming the bypass spring. Most people don't want to take the time to do it but on a Cleveland or 460 it cures 90% of any potential pressure issues w/o restrictors in the cam bearngs and thats with a stock volume pump. Good video.
@@blueovaldude I don't see an advantage to a radius on the inlet to the pump cavity. The hydrodynamic flow into the pump is a straight shot with the first direction change when it hits the wall and creates a pool. Since it is under pressure the transition would be in the pool not at the entrance.
@@wolfhobbies the first direction change is as soon as oil enters the pump, it goes directly to the left (when looking at the bottom under the cover plate) pulling oil across a sharp transition edge In the body. Less chance of cavitation, smoother flow and better oil pressure.It should be moving around 8-9 gpm of oil at peak.
We always added a washer behind the spring back in the day. But... we also drilled a hole to add a cotter pin to keep the plug from backing out. Needed? Dunno, but the cost was 3 cents for the cotter pin, so why not?
Look into Jon Kaase's oil pump. The right amount of volume to the right amount of pressure. Need to post the volume numbers to each pump. Pressure is a number not the amount of volume. Look at this away, I can have a 500 gallon a minute pump with 6 psi and another pump rt next to it at 110 gallons a minute at 6 psi.
One other thing i would do is take 1000 grit sand paper and clean up pressure relief valve so in slides freely, same as when cleaningg automatic valbve body
I believe most high volume oil pumps come with high pressure springs installed. Basically you’ll come up on the relief spring faster, but your relief pressure will also be higher. Engine Masters on Motortrend did some a-b testing with a big block Mopar (because they have external oil pumps that are easy to swap while mounted on a dyno) and showed an absolutely negligible loss of horsepower. Same principle applies for any constant displacement pumps like these.
HV oil pumps can be had in high volume standard pressure or high volume high pressure. From experience, Either way I have seen them eat gears and when switched out to a standard volume pump at the same pressure the problems went away .
@@blueovaldude I'm so curious what the root cause of failures like that is. You see a lot of anecdotal stuff going both ways. Once the pump is on the relief spring, load should barely rise with rpm. I'm not implying you did this, but I'm curious if failures of HV pumps are actually mismatched gear materials or heights that people incorrectly attribute to the pump volume.
@@Zero76606 Yes, gear material and distributor height to distributor hole depth has to be correct. I'm just talking about an A to B test . Only thing changed was switching out the HV oil pump to a standard pump . Tested more than once . That extra %25 of volume makes a difference . Even if it only took 1 horsepower more to run , that is a lot of extra strain on those little gears . There is a reason they reccomend to use a specific gear when using a HV oil pump . They are good for large clearance or worn engines, other than that I will pass .
Great content have You ever had an oil pump extrude honed or heard of anyone that does it ? Less turbulence means less restriction ? Also what do You recommend to optimize the oiling system without having to resort to a dry sump system ? Any information that You are able to share will be greatly appreciated ! Thank You & Best Wishes 🇺🇸🇵🇷🦊👍
You really just wanted to show us all your different flannel shirts🤣. Too many people go to crazy high flow pumps that don’t need them. Everyone wants to be John Force
The problem most people do not realize, when trying to up the oil Pressure is that you can exceed the PSI rating for your oil filter. Once you exceed the PSI for your oil filter, you will eventually cause that filter to explode causing an instant oil pressure loss. This is why he is saying he does not recommend high volume oil pumps, is because it will either starve the engine for oil when it empties the oil pan or blows the filter.
I didn’t see it or hear you say anything about this- but what thickness of feeler gauge do you use to check the rotor/scroll clearance to the plate ? I am curious as to what that dimension might be. I anxiously await your reply. By the way, I saw in another video a fella was saying that the oil drain back holes at either end of the cylinder head can be enlarged to a 1/2” I.d. as well as the front and rear oil passages in the engine block that receives oil from those same oil holes in the cylinder head. Have you tried this yet ? I will do it on my next build for sure.
Melling stated that the HV oil pumps for the 351w bypass at 76psi despite not being labeled a 'High Pressure' pump. Stock M83 is to bypass at 65psi. Despite most engine builders saying the stock pumps are fine, I do like to spend the extra on the Melling 'Performance' pumps. i like the idea of the shaft being supported at the top and bottom to prevent deflection. you can see how the bottom plate has wear on 1 side from the deflection. Also the bypass plug is adjustable easily and even includes a second spring you can use. and it includes a hardened shaft
I show the melling select 10832 in an earlier video , it's in zephyr 5.H8te. It uses a M83 as a main body ironically . longer shaft , different cover plate where the shaft passes through for end support and threaded relief valve plug instead of pressed in . It's nice but overkill for most applications. Great for oval track or high rpm stuff . That stock pump in the video was abused in oval track racing for 2 yrs before I disassembled , inspected and modified it .
I have before , it has been awhile now . For this I used 3 different double cut burrs , 5/16" cylindrical round ended , 1/4" cylindrical round ended and 5/16" ball style . You can come through a oil port and pull it across the sharp edge and radius a corner. Like you are pulling the tool out and across the edge . Running the tool at slower speeds for better control, around 35-40 psi I believe. Hope that helps you.
Great mod video. Wish block oil mods were available. Starting 393 budget build. I followed the head porting and flow numbers. Nice work. I went with the most hated head on the Internet pro comp cnc 227. Not sure how they will flow but Black Friday special at 1000 bucks I'll give them a shot. Motor is a street strip build. More street for an 85 fox. Hydraulic comp cam xe274 running 1.7 rockers, haven't decided on intake yet. Any suggestions? What main and rod clearance do you run. Using king bearings. Rpms will be kept reasonably low at 6-6200. Picked up a set of 1 3/4 swap headers used. Hoping to see 450-500 hp. What's your thoughts on setup? Thanks. Oh it's a stick car with tko 600
Thank you . My block mod video I posted a few weeks back is still up . If you have around 10 to 1 with 393 cubes and the rest of the parts you listed it should put you around that 500 Hp . You will need to check the valve springs to make sure they are set properly and up to the task . You will most likely lose some rpm with a 393 , larger cube engines have a way of taming camshafts some . you are in the realm of more street ( Rpm air gap ) or more strip (victor jr ) . If there is a chance of going to a larger cam someday just put a vic Jr on it . You want..001 for every inch of crankshaft diameter. Example..003 clearance for 3" Windsor mains minimum.
@@blueovaldude thanks for the advice. Have the springs to match my current cam. I will probably end up with a larger cam later on so more than likely single plane victor is better choice for me then. Do you think the 227 cc runners will hurt on velocity and engine response for street driving? Looking forward to seeing more videos.
@@eze.Morning_Wood_Farmsyes, The jr will give you room to grow in the future . Honestly I would not be concerned with 393 cid . A Well tuned matching combo goes a long way to make a happy engine.
I have a question about clearances for the oil pump drive shaft for a 71 302. Wirh a Melling drive shaft to bearing cap block clearance I'm at .013, does this sound about normal for a thicker drive shaft?
No, they are schoenfeld 3" bolt pattern 1 3/4" primary headers for oval track cars, some call them dyno headers. I had a bunch of stuff to throw at the engine on the dyno, but unfortunately it didn't work out.
@@blueovaldude OK! next time put your vehicle headers on! and see the horse_power losses due to the sharp turn of you vehicle headers compared to the dyno_room headers. ty
@@ivankrolo4626 That was the plan, along with a pile of other parts testing. A 3 month wait time for a dyno slot made me pull the plug. Honestly, I don't think there would be much difference between them . The design of my headers are much better than a cheap stock K-member designed units. No bends straight off the header flange. I would like to do an A-B test though.
I have a 1964 289 I took oil filter off an found very little oil in side the filter motor been run for short time and no noise that would make me think no oil pressure any idea what might be going on
When it goes into bypass it sends unfiltered oil to engine , it doesn't just go round and round in the pump like you described. Am i correct in my statement? Or am i confused?
When the oil filter bypass opens, it does as you described. When the oil pump bypass opens, it returns oil back to the inlet side of the pump. Reliving pressure and Recycling ♻️ the oil to use again. This all happens in the oil pump before it ever goes to the oil filter.
Not necessarily, a high volume pump will have to bypass more oil and be running more oil through it. A standard volume pump will still be running the same volume of oil through as stock, more oil is just going where it is intended after mods. I Have not noticed a difference in oil temperature.
The oil filter bypass should open when there is a difference between the inlet and outlet pressure, (that 8-11 psi) so Unless there is a restriction or the oil is too thick to pass through the filter media easily it is not supposed to open.
Can this be done to a 400 M? from what I've researched its the same as the 351 Cleveland. Your title says it is but i would just like to confirm. Same part numbers for that plug you replaced?
Thank you. One more question. Can you see any improvement or is it worth doing if you don't do anything to the engine side like you did on yours? I would like to try it on the oil pump only and not the engine but want to see if it would make a difference or if its something I have to do to the engine and oil pump. @@blueovaldude
@@awences1 im building a 400 as well. I plan on optimizing the oil pump but also cleaning up the oil passageways up to the oil filter, also the Tmeyer optimization of the #1 main oil supply. and the grooved cam bearings if you got the engine apart i would do as much as you are able to do with what you have at the least. the less pressure is lost before it reaches all the bearings the better. high pump pressure will increase pressure downstream but it will be more strain on drive gears and shaft versus decreasing pressure losses by smoothing block oil passages. of particular concern is the amount of oil going to the camshaft bearings. others may chime in or explain better than myself.
marking the rotor gears is a useless cause. The Rotor is a 4 blade the piece it goes into is a 5 so they are not timed. Never scratch you oil pump internals.
Blueing with Dykem blue would be an appropriate alternative. It wouldn’t cause any issues with the oil or pump, and it would not cause any issues with the rod or main bearings. Not trying to be a jerk, most guys wouldn’t think like this, much less know about this sort of thing- unless they just happen to be a machinist/ head porting shop.
I totally agree. Scratching a machined surface is a huge hack job move. Take the cap off, clean the end of the only part you could possibly put in upside down with some brake clean and a rag, and put a dot or mark on it with a sharpie pen. “Timing” something designed like that is hilarious 😅
great info
Will give it a try
God Bless
I'm going to try these mods on a 302 pump!
Other engine builders for Cleveland's say just use a larger oil pan. Those Cleveland's pump almost 2 qts per head and cause a starvation issues at sustained high rpms. If youbare using a standard 5 qts pan, then it is only 1 qt left and the oil pump is not even pulling enough oil and creating a vacuum in the system. The vacuum is then dry locking the system that further increases the starvation for oil.
This video answered my question on the last video about what it might hurt so please disregard. You've convinced me that a high volume pump is not only unnecessary, but may actually rob a bit of top end power.
I think the cleanup on the oil passages really helps horsepower too because it reduces the amount of resistance the oil pump has when it's driving that oil through the engine. I remember when I did my engine build I found a document on NASCAR engine building that talked about how those guys would pump an abrasive slurry through all the oil and water passages to smooth everything out for this very reason. It was claimed to gain a few net horsepower at the flywheel, and as we know every little bit of power counts in those applications. Conceptually the same as the pumping losses when you have a restriction in the intake or exhaust flow. You may not actually be pumping any more air (or put another way increasing the volume of air a cylinder can pump), but the amount of power it takes to pump that air is less so it puts more of that power out to the crank with each cycle of the piston. I was drinking from a firehose of info at the time I built the engine so I never messed with any of that oil passage stuff, but it was interesting reading for sure.
Thanks for the oil pump mod video, that is going to really be a part of my build forsure👍🏻😇🙏🏻
Porting the oil pump typically gains 20 to 25 PSI without changing or shiming the bypass spring. Most people don't want to take the time to do it but on a Cleveland or 460 it cures 90% of any potential pressure issues w/o restrictors in the cam bearngs and thats with a stock volume pump. Good video.
Thank you for explaining everything in plain English like why we need to radius profile the oil feedback ports.
You're welcome, I'm glad you appreciate it.
@@blueovaldude I don't see an advantage to a radius on the inlet to the pump cavity. The hydrodynamic flow into the pump is a straight shot with the first direction change when it hits the wall and creates a pool. Since it is under pressure the transition would be in the pool not at the entrance.
@@wolfhobbies the first direction change is as soon as oil enters the pump, it goes directly to the left (when looking at the bottom under the cover plate) pulling oil across a sharp transition edge In the body. Less chance of cavitation, smoother flow and better oil pressure.It should be moving around 8-9 gpm of oil at peak.
informative content, you did an awesome job! thank you for sharing this video.
Thank you!!
We always added a washer behind the spring back in the day.
But... we also drilled a hole to add a cotter pin to keep the plug from backing out. Needed? Dunno, but the cost was 3 cents for the cotter pin, so why not?
Pump looks great
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks BOD, Merry Christmas
Thank you . Merry Christmas and happy new year !
Look into Jon Kaase's oil pump. The right amount of volume to the right amount of pressure. Need to post the volume numbers to each pump. Pressure is a number not the amount of volume. Look at this away, I can have a 500 gallon a minute pump with 6 psi and another pump rt next to it at 110 gallons a minute at 6 psi.
Great video
Good info!
God bless you bro
One other thing i would do is take 1000 grit sand paper and clean up pressure relief valve so in slides freely, same as when cleaningg automatic valbve body
I believe most high volume oil pumps come with high pressure springs installed. Basically you’ll come up on the relief spring faster, but your relief pressure will also be higher. Engine Masters on Motortrend did some a-b testing with a big block Mopar (because they have external oil pumps that are easy to swap while mounted on a dyno) and showed an absolutely negligible loss of horsepower. Same principle applies for any constant displacement pumps like these.
HV oil pumps can be had in high volume standard pressure or high volume high pressure. From experience, Either way I have seen them eat gears and when switched out to a standard volume pump at the same pressure the problems went away .
@@blueovaldude I'm so curious what the root cause of failures like that is. You see a lot of anecdotal stuff going both ways. Once the pump is on the relief spring, load should barely rise with rpm. I'm not implying you did this, but I'm curious if failures of HV pumps are actually mismatched gear materials or heights that people incorrectly attribute to the pump volume.
@@Zero76606 Yes, gear material and distributor height to distributor hole depth has to be correct. I'm just talking about an A to B test . Only thing changed was switching out the HV oil pump to a standard pump . Tested more than once . That extra %25 of volume makes a difference . Even if it only took 1 horsepower more to run , that is a lot of extra strain on those little gears . There is a reason they reccomend to use a specific gear when using a HV oil pump . They are good for large clearance or worn engines, other than that I will pass .
Great content have You ever had an oil pump extrude honed or heard of anyone that does it ? Less turbulence means less restriction ? Also what do You recommend to optimize the oiling system without having to resort to a dry sump system ? Any information that You are able to share will be greatly appreciated ! Thank You & Best Wishes 🇺🇸🇵🇷🦊👍
I like to use dingle berry hones for some of that stuff. Also it might be safer to put spring preload shim inside plunger?
You really just wanted to show us all your different flannel shirts🤣. Too many people go to crazy high flow pumps that don’t need them. Everyone wants to be John Force
Vintage circa 1998 haha . The standard Ford pump does a good job when modded .
The problem most people do not realize, when trying to up the oil Pressure is that you can exceed the PSI rating for your oil filter. Once you exceed the PSI for your oil filter, you will eventually cause that filter to explode causing an instant oil pressure loss. This is why he is saying he does not recommend high volume oil pumps, is because it will either starve the engine for oil when it empties the oil pan or blows the filter.
That's why you go with a 7qt. pan or larger in stroker engines.
Can’t wait todo this mod to my galaxy 400m
If you have a iron pump, then buy a melling k68a kit, which will have everything including a 70 psi spring.
I didn’t see it or hear you say anything about this- but what thickness of feeler gauge do you use to check the rotor/scroll clearance to the plate ? I am curious as to what that dimension might be. I anxiously await your reply. By the way, I saw in another video a fella was saying that the oil drain back holes at either end of the cylinder head can be enlarged to a 1/2” I.d. as well as the front and rear oil passages in the engine block that receives oil from those same oil holes in the cylinder head. Have you tried this yet ? I will do it on my next build for sure.
I was the first like 😁
...new subscriber & thanks for the video tech ! Can I send you some pumps & pay you to do this modification ? God bless you, brother !...
You won't necessary see high oil temp in sump but oil going thru engine
Funny you can tell where the person is from just by them using words like.... about out house....lol
Melling stated that the HV oil pumps for the 351w bypass at 76psi despite not being labeled a 'High Pressure' pump. Stock M83 is to bypass at 65psi.
Despite most engine builders saying the stock pumps are fine, I do like to spend the extra on the Melling 'Performance' pumps. i like the idea of the shaft being supported at the top and bottom to prevent deflection. you can see how the bottom plate has wear on 1 side from the deflection. Also the bypass plug is adjustable easily and even includes a second spring you can use. and it includes a hardened shaft
I show the melling select 10832 in an earlier video , it's in zephyr 5.H8te. It uses a M83 as a main body ironically . longer shaft , different cover plate where the shaft passes through for end support and threaded relief valve plug instead of pressed in . It's nice but overkill for most applications. Great for oval track or high rpm stuff . That stock pump in the video was abused in oval track racing for 2 yrs before I disassembled , inspected and modified it .
@@blueovaldude you need to find out what the volume is for each pump. Never assume it's enough.
SOFT PLUG REMOVAL= DRILL1/4" HOLE THROUGH PLUG. ACORN LUG NUT 1/4" HOLE DRILLED THROUGH + SELF TAPPING SCREW W/ HEAD STUCK WITHING ACORN PORTION OF LUG. THREAD ACORN LUG ONTO SLIDE HAMMER BAM SHES OUT.
Have you explained the tools/ carbide bits you use to do this fine work?
I have before , it has been awhile now . For this I used 3 different double cut burrs , 5/16" cylindrical round ended , 1/4" cylindrical round ended and 5/16" ball style . You can come through a oil port and pull it across the sharp edge and radius a corner. Like you are pulling the tool out and across the edge . Running the tool at slower speeds for better control, around 35-40 psi I believe. Hope that helps you.
While you had the grinder out, why didn't you grind the casting parting lines smooth to relieve the inherent stress risers?
Good question, I have never found any data that proves that it may help the main webs hold more horsepower.
Great mod video. Wish block oil mods were available. Starting 393 budget build. I followed the head porting and flow numbers. Nice work. I went with the most hated head on the Internet pro comp cnc 227. Not sure how they will flow but Black Friday special at 1000 bucks I'll give them a shot. Motor is a street strip build. More street for an 85 fox. Hydraulic comp cam xe274 running 1.7 rockers, haven't decided on intake yet. Any suggestions? What main and rod clearance do you run. Using king bearings. Rpms will be kept reasonably low at 6-6200. Picked up a set of 1 3/4 swap headers used. Hoping to see 450-500 hp. What's your thoughts on setup? Thanks. Oh it's a stick car with tko 600
Thank you . My block mod video I posted a few weeks back is still up . If you have around 10 to 1 with 393 cubes and the rest of the parts you listed it should put you around that 500 Hp . You will need to check the valve springs to make sure they are set properly and up to the task . You will most likely lose some rpm with a 393 , larger cube engines have a way of taming camshafts some . you are in the realm of more street ( Rpm air gap ) or more strip (victor jr ) . If there is a chance of going to a larger cam someday just put a vic Jr on it . You want..001 for every inch of crankshaft diameter. Example..003 clearance for 3" Windsor mains minimum.
@@blueovaldude thanks for the advice. Have the springs to match my current cam. I will probably end up with a larger cam later on so more than likely single plane victor is better choice for me then. Do you think the 227 cc runners will hurt on velocity and engine response for street driving? Looking forward to seeing more videos.
@@blueovaldude oh do you think a 5 quart swap pan is sufficient? Scares me a little. Eventually the car will see autocross type racing at some point.
@@eze.Morning_Wood_Farmsyes, The jr will give you room to grow in the future . Honestly I would not be concerned with 393 cid . A Well tuned matching combo goes a long way to make a happy engine.
@@eze.Morning_Wood_Farms It would work, but I am always a fan of an larger capacity better designed pan .
If I wore gloves, I wouldn't feel any scratches either.
Very informative. Thanks for the Bible verse...big encouragement..Hope you have video about Buick Century too 😁
Well I don't know about that. Haha
I have a question about clearances for the oil pump drive shaft for a 71 302. Wirh a Melling drive shaft to bearing cap block clearance I'm at .013, does this sound about normal for a thicker drive shaft?
As long as there is clearance, it should be fine. If it is too tight, just clearance the drive shaft slightly. 👍🏻
@@blueovaldude Thank you, I worded that wrong, it's the shaft to bearing cap, and crank lol. Right on man!
Hi BLUE OVAL DUDE, On the intro of this utube clip the engine on the the engine dyno running ! are those headers the ones you use on your vehicle ? ty
No, they are schoenfeld 3" bolt pattern 1 3/4" primary headers for oval track cars, some call them dyno headers. I had a bunch of stuff to throw at the engine on the dyno, but unfortunately it didn't work out.
@@blueovaldude OK! next time put your vehicle headers on! and see the horse_power losses due to the sharp turn of you vehicle headers compared to the dyno_room headers. ty
@@ivankrolo4626 That was the plan, along with a pile of other parts testing. A 3 month wait time for a dyno slot made me pull the plug. Honestly, I don't think there would be much difference between them . The design of my headers are much better than a cheap stock K-member designed units. No bends straight off the header flange. I would like to do an A-B test though.
I have a 1964 289 I took oil filter off an found very little oil in side the filter motor been run for short time and no noise that would make me think no oil pressure any idea what might be going on
The oil could be draining back to the pan. If you are concerned, put a pressure gauge on it to confirm proper oil pressure and operation.
When it goes into bypass it sends unfiltered oil to engine , it doesn't just go round and round in the pump like you described. Am i correct in my statement? Or am i confused?
When the oil filter bypass opens, it does as you described. When the oil pump bypass opens, it returns oil back to the inlet side of the pump. Reliving pressure and Recycling ♻️ the oil to use again. This all happens in the oil pump before it ever goes to the oil filter.
High pressure means oil heats up more also
Not necessarily, a high volume pump will have to bypass more oil and be running more oil through it. A standard volume pump will still be running the same volume of oil through as stock, more oil is just going where it is intended after mods. I Have not noticed a difference in oil temperature.
High pressure always causes more heat, basic phyics
Soo, if you have High Pressure, and the filter bypass stock is 8-11psi, would that mean that the oil filter would be in bypass most of the time?
The oil filter bypass should open when there is a difference between the inlet and outlet pressure, (that 8-11 psi) so Unless there is a restriction or the oil is too thick to pass through the filter media easily it is not supposed to open.
@@blueovaldude Kinda reminds me of the 351C oil pump mods, shimming the relief. for Pressure. I like how you massage it better.
Can this be done to a 400 M? from what I've researched its the same as the 351 Cleveland. Your title says it is but i would just like to confirm. Same part numbers for that plug you replaced?
Yes sir, it can, I am not sure if the soft plug is the same or not because this was a 351 windsor oil pump m83 I believe.
Thank you. One more question. Can you see any improvement or is it worth doing if you don't do anything to the engine side like you did on yours? I would like to try it on the oil pump only and not the engine but want to see if it would make a difference or if its something I have to do to the engine and oil pump. @@blueovaldude
@@awences1 im building a 400 as well. I plan on optimizing the oil pump but also cleaning up the oil passageways up to the oil filter, also the Tmeyer optimization of the #1 main oil supply. and the grooved cam bearings
if you got the engine apart i would do as much as you are able to do with what you have at the least. the less pressure is lost before it reaches all the bearings the better. high pump pressure will increase pressure downstream but it will be more strain on drive gears and shaft versus decreasing pressure losses by smoothing block oil passages. of particular concern is the amount of oil going to the camshaft bearings. others may chime in or explain better than myself.
Awesome Bible verses and car stuff too
Good video, but my hot tip is turn off all the background radios/music etc.
marking the rotor gears is a useless cause. The Rotor is a 4 blade the piece it goes into is a 5 so they are not timed. Never scratch you oil pump internals.
Blueing with Dykem blue would be an appropriate alternative. It wouldn’t cause any issues with the oil or pump, and it would not cause any issues with the rod or main bearings. Not trying to be a jerk, most guys wouldn’t think like this, much less know about this sort of thing- unless they just happen to be a machinist/ head porting shop.
I totally agree. Scratching a machined surface is a huge hack job move. Take the cap off, clean the end of the only part you could possibly put in upside down with some brake clean and a rag, and put a dot or mark on it with a sharpie pen. “Timing” something designed like that is hilarious 😅