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How to Assemble Exterior Window Trim | Pro2Pro | This Old House
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- Опубликовано: 13 июн 2019
- Sweenor Builders developed a process for trimming out windows that yields tight joints sure to withstand harsh climates.
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On a recent trip to our Westerly Ranch House [www.thisoldhouse.com/watch/westerly-ranch-house] project I caught up with Adam Spink, a lead carpenter for Sweenor Builders [sweenorbuilders.com]. Adam has developed an efficient process for trimming out windows that produces a flawless look exemplary of the quality craftsmanship Sweenor Builders is noted for. In this video, he builds a sample to illustrate his process. He and his team use a pre-treated pine product that resists rot. Combined with exterior-grade glue, fasteners, primer and paint, the trim is sure to withstand Westerly’s climate while maintaining its aesthetic for decades to come.
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How to Assemble Exterior Window Trim | Pro2Pro | This Old House
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Now that’s my kinda Pro, one that takes pride in their work and wants it to look the best possible!! Nice Job 👍
Awesome video great tutorial seems like a lot of pros just watch these videos to complain. I tried finding their videos but I couldn't find them for some reason. Excellent videos I'm a first time homeowner and they save me a lot of money. Thanks guys keep up the good work
Wow, nice work
An artist at work, great job.
A Craftsman like this is hard to find especially when the exterior of the house is involved. Usually they just pound up four pieces of butt joined wood and then tell you how beautiful it looks.
True. Years back when it was a tight housing market, saw interiors being made solely with butt joints.
Edit: I looked again and it seems as though the angle of the camera makes it look as if the edge is primed, yet is just a reflection of the primed wood used to clamp. Nice job!
I am wondering if it is worth glueing primed wood. If I'm not mistaken, gorilla glue expands into the crevaces of the surface to form the bond and is cured by moisture. How strong is the glue bond if it can not penetrate the primer? Is the time it takes to sand a bit not worth the extra strength?
Nice to see a pro at work
great video just wish you went into more dyi friendlier version of this
We are one in the same..my approach is much like yours...QAULITY !...would love to see how you made the sill for the window.
You might want to check your spelling of "QAULITY" before you say that your approach is QUALITY. 🤣
Now THAT'S a pro
What’s the lifespan of this type of trim? Would pvc trim had been a better option due to its durability?
With that being said this was an excellent tutorial!! I definitely learned alot
One down side to pvc is it expands and contracts a lot and can cause caulk and paint to crack and boards to buckle and warp. Probably more maintenance but a sharper look.
Wow! Great work
impressive ..
Question about the Barge Board on the gable seen at 9:45. How do you get the siding under there and seal it properly so that no water gets behind it? I'm residing my house with 7.25" plank, and have a similar situation with 2x8" barge boards to tuck siding under. How did you do it? Thanks
Where did you get that cap?? And what are the measurements??
What are the clamps you are using for your crown?
Collins clamps
Just installed new construction windows myself and have already installed a drip cap. Does the trim head casing also get a drip cap and do you caulk the gap between the trim and window?
Hi we have a small tree that was planted around 4 years ago and we had a big storm roll through a snapped it at the very bottom leaving the roots and a small stump, is there any way to repair it or replant it if the roots are still in the ground?
So you don’t put glue between the front crown molding and the head piece?
What was the purpose of doing those bevel cuts?
No more ASK TOH?
She’s a beaut but why are you using wood glue on an outdoor fixture? Won’t water erode it over the years?
Not sure what wood glue he used, but some are rated for outdoor use, like Titebond III.
Looked like gorilla glues outdoor wood glue
The glue you used will start to fail at 120F. Need to use PU glue on exterior joints. Also need to make sure the raw wood is primed on the back of the trim or it will start cupping.
What kind of wood are you using?
I am not sure if you guys respond to year old posts but I am getting desperate for help! It took 7 years to build the house and we (and when I say we, I mean all the sub contractors I hired) made every mistake in the book. The concrete is in and I am just beginning to build a workshop ... 3500 sq ft ... 16 ft walls. I am covering he exterior with pre-finished Hardie plank. No one can tell me the "correct" or "best" way to flash and case around the windows.
i don't want to use PVC ... just had bad results on this house ... biggest problem here in Vermont is that I have huge gaps in the cold (we hit -30) and it never comes all the way back .. like it shrank. The end cuts seem porous and have mold on them.
So, I wanted to use Hardie trim ... problem, can't cut a groove for the nail fin in it. I could bump it out 1/4" ... but not sure with what. Then I would still have a problem of what to do at the bottom.
I could use wood like you did. I went to "L" and "HD" ... the only paintable treated trim they had was a 1 x 4 x 4' ... won't do me much good on 3' x 6' windows.
I could uses just standard yellow pine or ???? ... just some standard 1 x 4's and rip up a 2 x 4 for the sill. Problem, I have three spots with with double windows ...can you span 6 ft with a sill not nailed in (it didn't look like you nailed the bottom) ... and in the front I have three 4 ft windows ...so 12 ft ... same problem. I am not sure how well pine holds up (prime and two coats) ... Hardie has a 50 year warranty and 15 years on the finish.
Plus I am not sure how (if) I need some bottom casing to cover the nails in the Hardie plank. II am blind nailing but will need to face nail under the windows ... can I get the case to cover this?
Finally, the flashing .... do I flash above the casing ... or above the window (below the casing) ... or both ????
If anyone has any advice, I am all ears!
Thanks ..... Mike
Jimmy Diresta called. He wants his fast motion schtick back.
I didn’t know diresta invented hyperlapse 🧐
Good video.. but aren't you suppose to avoid having "super super tight" joints and gaps? don't you take into consideration the expansion of the siding?
The concern with tight joints I believe is usually when dealing with long runs of siding, like lap siding, where the length of a piece will noticeably grow and shrink as it temperature cycles. With those short shingles, I cannot imagine the dimensional change in temp cycling is much at all.
Here in CT, they require metal drip cap to prevent rot at the top of windows and doors. Is it not required there?
I was wondering the same thing. I’m starting to see more and more people not using them anymore. Kinda of foolish if u ask me
Is it normal to assemble trim and then attach to house? I would have thought you would assemble piece by piece on house like you do with interior trim.
Both ways work. I know a lot of guys don't like to pre-assemble and prefer build in place. Guys that do pre-builds spend more time prepping, and taking measurements and then go and install them all at once. Real handy especially when you're climbing up and down scaffolding or ladders. There's less prep work for the painters so in theory your finish is going to be better because you can control the surface where you're assembling and take care of all the unsightly stuff on the ground. Climbing up and down with tools and material is the real strenuous part of the work so doing everything at ground level is a blessing.
The reason guys don't like to pre-assemble is window sizes can vary even if they manufactured to be the same size. So your measurements need to be spot on if you're pre-assembling, and if you're wrong or your tolerances are off on 1 or 2, it's a mess. You also can't depend on windows being perfectly true and straight, we've gotten high end windows that were not perfectly true and straight. So if your pre-assemble trim doesn't fit, I can guarantee you'll be pissed. You cut down on measurements, all your pieces are cut by marking the actual size of the window. Essentially you can get tighter tolerances. Basically people don't always have the patience to do it at ground level. You can get the same results either way. I have projects where guys can climb in and out of windows or decks so they build in place by moving equipment from 1st or 2nd floor. The drawback is now you're dependant on painters, who might not be as artisanal and willing to spare you a 10-20 more minutes per window dressing up imperfections such as 2 butt joints not being flat. Second issue is you can't really do concealed fasteners like kreg screws meaning if your painter half asses their prep work, then you're craftsmanship looks shotty.
What part of mass y’all in ?
Dimensions on stock would have been great to get idea of design look n feel. Plus he forgot to show how he attached this to the wall.
that first clamp job was useless, just clamp to the table.
The point is to provide a tight, flat, backer, not to immobilize the head casing. His body provided the resistance needed against his screw gun. Least that's how I see it.
Hot man!
Thumbs down. He never put the exterior frame on to the house.
Forget the house, how do i build a body like yours
What the.
The aggressive editing on this video is kinda odd in parts.
He a pro and thinks that the glue is what’s holding that end grain joint?
Why don't you think it will?
Wood glue does not work on end grain joints. The end grain is too porous and soaks in all the glue.
Morgan would a construction adhesive be a better option? I know it can be messy, I ask because I am about to embark on this same project.
CC64 it would for sure work better than wood glue due to its viscosity. Really though pocket holes are plenty strong on there own. You don’t really need glue. The best joint would be a tongue and grove or lap joint but that requires a lot more work.
Morgan thanks I appreciate the response.
The high speed video is very unprofessional.
THE POST PRODUCTION CREW WAS ON VACATION THE WEEK THIS WAS SCHEDULED FOR EDITING........ :)
that first clamp job was useless, just clamp to the table.