PVC TRIM VS. WOOD TRIM? (Pros And Cons!)
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- Опубликовано: 6 июн 2024
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PVC trim is rapidly replacing wood trim as the go-to home exterior trim building material around the country. But there are some things to know about the product. How does it stack up against its wood counterpart. This video by The Honest Carpenter will answer your questions! (PVC Trim Vs. Wood Trim)
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Be sure to check out other videos from The Honest Carpenter:
PAINT TREATED WOOD--TIPS AND TRICKS:
• Paint Treated Wood--Ti...
HOW TO FIX LOOSE DECK NAILS:
• How To Fix Loose Deck ...
HOW TO REPLACE DECK STAIR TREADS:
• Deck Stair Tread Insta...
Also, check out these warranty and installation guidelines from major PVC trim manufacturers, Azek and Royal Building Products:
azekexteriors.com/docs/instal...
www.royalbuildingproducts.com...
WHERE CAN YOU BUY PVC TRIM?
Pretty much all big box home improvement stores carry PVC trim these days. You'll often find it near the "Doors and Windows" section.
HOW MUCH DOES PVC TRIM COST?
PVC trim used to be outrageously expensive--but the cost has come down in recent years! a 1x10 board, 8' long, will run over $40. A 4'x8' sheet, 3/4" thick, can cost up to $160! But, linear pine wood trim lumber isn't much cheaper these days.
WHERE SHOULD YOU USE PVC TRIM?
PVC trim is suitable for any area that suffers from water or moisture exposure. PVC TRIM CANNOT ROT! For this reason, it is superior to wood trim in exterior areas like:
--Windowsills
--Brick Molds (door and window casings)
--Fascia Boards
But, it is also very good in some interior areas as well, such as:
--Bathrooms (especially baseboards, and areas close to the tub or shower)
--Mud Rooms
--Laundry Rooms
WHAT IS PVC TRIM LIKE TO WORK WITH?
The answer is: Very much like wood trim! PVC cuts in similar fashion, using the same tools. It nails and fastens in the same way.
BUT, PVC needs caulks and adhesives that are formulated for the product. I use "Alex Flex" for caulk, and "PL Premium Loctite" for adhesive.
Also, you can use any acrylic latex paint on PVC trim--but manufacturers recommend not using dark paint because it can cause failures.
OTHER DIFFERENCES BETWEEN PVC TRIM AND WOOD TRIM:
PVC trim expands and contracts like wood. But, it does so because of HEAT, rather than MOISTURE.
PVC trim also won't warp because of environmental factors.
DRAWBACKS OF PVC TRIM:
--It is easy to mar or damage PVC trim because the surface tends to be very soft.
--PVC trim has a very porous edge, which looks like wood end grain and is hard to hide.
--PVC trim sawdust gets everywhere!
Overall, PVC trim is superior to wood trim in its protection against water intrusion in every way. Because it cannot rot, PVC trim is the absolute best choice in areas where water intrusion can be expected.
Be sure to check back in with The Honest Carpenter for more videos!
Also, visit us as The Honest Carpenter website:
www.thehonestcarpenter.com
(Raleigh, Durham, Chapel Hill, Apex, Cary, Wake Forest--North Carolina) 
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Thank you for a concise and complete video on PVC trim! You covered all of the major questions and concerns that most users of this product would have including seasonal installation..fasteners..fillers and finish..great job!
This is one of the things I absolutely requested when the wife and I built our home in 2020. The contractor even stated it would add to the cost. I told them idc, I don't want want the hassle of the maintenance to take care of real wood.
Few years ago I had a front porch built with PVC trim, contractor assumed I wanted the "Wood grain" finish so he protect that side during storage and the smooth side I wanted ended up really dinged up. He was going to have to replace it, but I found if you take a heat gun to the damaged areas and then used something hard to roll it while it was hot, almost all the dings disappeared.
I’m amazed at how clear and concise you present the information in your videos, they are jam packed with information without filler but don’t overload the viewer. Easily my new go to for repair projects around my new rotting house!
Thank you Scott! I appreciate you watching 🙂
My 92 year old house had a window in the shower that was constantly rotting. My handyman overlaid it
with the PVC window trim with vinyl fence nails. Beautiful result. Only took 85 years to figure this out.
Only 85 years 🤣🤣🤣
Someone mentioned earlier in the comments to use water and ground the tools to prevent dust flying away and sticking to things.
@@jsmith5443 Thanks J. Not quite sure how to use water with a saw but I'll give that a think, as it does make one heck of a mess.
Could have used ground treated lumber, I replaced all my window sills and outside trim with ground contact treated lumber
Ethan, you are one of the Most Professional RUclips content makers!!! You're always well spoken, highly organized and explain things in a way that most everyone can understand. This was an outstanding video! I have a LOT of sill/trim work that needs attention at my house. I'll definitely consider fixing those jobs with PVC. Thanks!!
Thanks so much, Mark! I really appreciate the positive feedback 🙂 Good luck with the repairs. I think with sills in particular you can’t go wrong with pvc!
Consider?
No, it just took 85 years for the right product to come your way. ;-)
I’ve seen what looks like PVC baseboards but there is a thin layer of wood in the middle-what is that called? New sun is👍😊
Sold. I mostly dried, but I also did some repair of water damage to buildings. I've been retired now for about 13 years. I have not paid much attention to new products since then. This is perfect for everything you mentioned.
I can't BELIEVE how useful and clear your advice is. I'm currently replacing 30 year old painted red cedar trim and a piece of cedar siding due to water damage. PVC trim is what I purchased and now, after watching this video, I feel like a genius! Got rotted door jambsto fix next and I see there's a video on that too! Thank you for sharing your expertise!!
You are lucky you have someone to share his/her expertise. Lucky to see a video for all wood you have to replace. But if you get Allback linseed oil and Allback linseed paint you can use wood and not have any problems with rot. You can find that at The Eco Living Room at 12 Cataraqui Street just west of The Woolen Mill, if you're in Kingston Ontario. If you're in another city or would like to browse and check out these products first, you can visit www.sagerestoration.com. If you're in the US, you can visit www.solventfreepaint.com.
Replaced wood brick moulding with pvc on my garage window over 10 years ago. Very happy with it. It faces the southeast so it’s exposed to extreme sun. The pvc holds paint very well, where the wood would start to peel after a few years. It does expand and contract as you said so sometimes you can notice a slight gap at the corners. I used big stretch caulking and that seemed to be able to handle the expansion and contraction.
My side kitchen window gets exposed to sun all day since there no trees or bush on that small side. I noticed trims are separating and I like to maintain it. I figured if this wood trim is rotting fast while other part is like new then that’s a problem. I think going PVC might be my solution as well. Glad I stumbled upon this video and comment
Another adhesive option is PVC pipe primer and solvent cement. I used it in combination with mechanical fasteners on a product display rack I built about 35 years ago. Seals up "end grain" quite nicely.
The plumbing solvent cement works, but has an extremely short open time. Azek adhesive has come down in price to the point that it's close to plumbing cement, and is a lot easier to work with. In addition to using pvc cement to seal end grain, you can use other solvents. I've used acetone for this.
Both of them suck imo. The joint easily pulls apart by hand. The only thing I found that won't fail with PVC expansion issues is an expensive as hell two-part PVC epoxy.
are nails insufficient?
@@scottgiet1835 I use stainless trim screws.
This is an excellent tutorial for homeowners who need to repair and/ or replace their rotting wood trim. A great overview of the do's and don't of PVC trim!
OK, Ethan, it’s now twice within an hour where you just helped educate me on a project I’m about to undertake (with a carpenter, not me) and I can’t thank you enough! I feel well armed to talk through replacing some exterior woodwork that has rot now that I’ve seen this. It was well worth me pausing your video every 45 seconds to write everything down. Much obliged, and keep up the great work.
Thanks for the informative video. I'm not a carpenter but I am an incredible cheapskate so if I were wrapping some iron supports like you did, I would use wood boards and cut them 2 or 3 inches short at the bottom and then nail on 4-6 inch wide pvc pieces essentially wrapping the bottoms of the wood boards so only the pvc contacts the ground.
I wouldn't blame you, Steven! The price line can be hard to take sometimes. But that sort of bottom-end extension is exactly what much of the industry is doing now to create better door jambs
We use to call them sacrificial pieces. Knew they would rot first and could be replaced easily. I like your thinking.
That's what I thought of as well. Either that or leaving about a 1/4 inch off the ground, then filling it with caulk so that the pvc is not neccesary.
Or, if the two products are getting so similar in price, whay take the time and hassle of transitioning to PVC the last few inches? I would think it hard to attached a short 4" end piece of PVC with only rot iron as a backer, no?
@@paulegan2252 PVC amending was easier (for me) than pulling out an entire patio door surround.
I started using PVC trim many years ago after the brickmould rotted away on our back door. Last week, I was going to patch the rotten parts of our fascia using cedar but all of the 1x6 boards at Lowes were warped so I bought a PVC board and used that to repair the fascia. It worked great.
It is economically and ecologically a bad calculation. Pvc won't last long and gets ugly quick. You cant repair it and cant paint it either.
I have replaces all Corner-boards, Facia, and Window trim with PVC Trim starting around 17 years ago. It's been holding up over many summer/winter cycles as if I just installed it. Takes paint very well. Never going back to wood for my trim. Thanks for this video.
I truly enjoyed listening to your comments about PVC vs Wood. Most or your comments I already was aware of. It's what I didn't know that I built on by watching your video. Thanks!
Thanks Jesse! I appreciate you watching 🙂
Thanks for the "cons" segment...never would have thought about the mess.
Something that everyone could ignored. Just pay more and get the wood and focus of on not to get those wood rotten. Save the planet :)
Excellent video especially the points about adhesives, caulk and dark paint colors.
Great product! Started using for trim around my garage about 10 years ago. It replaced a composite cement product. Painted well, I screwed it. Still looks great today. Thanks....Jim
Thank you for this very informative and easy to understand video for any homeowner getting ready to have contractors start working on our home. Ethan - we ❤️ the HONEST CARPENTER!
Regarding fascia boards, I would not recommend using PVC on a fascia board that a gutter is installed to, unless you can ensure that each one of your gutter fasteners(spikes/ferrules, hidden "skyhook" type screw hangers, etc.) grabs onto something structural such as a rafter tail end or a 2x4 or 2x6 subfascia(you won't always have one of these). If you have a gutter hanger that doesn't bite into something that has substance(like 2x wood, or 1x wood with a screw hanger), it won't be long before that hanger fails because the density of PVC material is much lower than wood, and as a result the lower density, fastener pullout strength is greatly reduced, and the likelihood that the weight of a gutter that is full of water or ice will be more than enough to rip it from its moorings and could cause major damage to anything that happens to be below it at the time of it falling, such as a person or a car.
This was very informative. I had already used a PVC brick moulding in my bathroom. Considering using it for the window there and this was helpful
Thank you! I’ve found it to be great for window thresholds and casings 👍
You are just fantastic! Thank you so much for your help. I'm trying to do some things on my own and I'm truly learning a lot. About 6 years ago now me and my daughter re did our main drain in the basement just by watching guys like you. And we have not had problems so far. Had to change old cast pipes rented the tool for it. (Which we us PVC) pipes. Now I'm going to tackle the facis on my small roof. Its not to high but seeing this i will be using PVC. Again thank you so much.
Extremely well made video. Carpenters are actually wood/material design engineers and you are one of the best! Thank you Andy. I am going to replace my rotten wood trim with PVC. SUBSCRIBED.
Thanks brother! I love wood, the smell, the look, the feel everthing about it, however PVC has changed the way i do a lot of work! Cheers!
Thanks for watching Derek! I fully agree
I agree , I think PVC just looks cheap like Tupperware lol. But I get the preventative maintenance . It's good for homeowners that aren't handy or dont have the cash to hire someone to maintain there home.
Great detailed video. I work on a lot of boats/yachts. Pvc lumber cant be beat. Salt water wont hurt it and it never needs painting. Since there are never straight or level lines on boats, i use a heat gun and pvc cement to conform it to the multiple compound curves on a sailboat.
They make heat blankets for pc you bend the like a pretzel if you have too
You are a fantastic representative of your skills and the products you encourage. I applaud you!
Superb instructional video. I'm sold on using PVC for trim work. I'm currently rebuilding the trim work around my front door with cellular PVC. I would not have had the confidence to try this work with PVC had I not watched your video. So thank you for the great information, break down and instruction for usage Ethan. I have this video bookmarked!
Great video, I have been using this product for the past few years replacing trim boards on my house. Thank you giving me some affirmation on choosing it. I am a retired guy that uses you-tube for my education, so guys like you are my life line. Keep up the good work.
Thank you, Ken! RUclips is such a great way to share knowledge. I learn things here, and I get to pass along what I know. It's a win-win. I appreciate you watching :)
Never thought about specific caulk or adhesive for it. Good tip.
Thanks Joe!
@Alexander Franke thank you.
I've been using Oatey Fusion 10-fl oz PVC Cement And Primer. It's clear & supper strong bond. Never failed in years in full sun.
Same here. Replaced a window last year and I think I just used regular old Dap. I'll have to keep my eyes open as I start doing more in the next couple years.
This video helped convince some of my customers that pvc was the way to go. I used pvc trim for a bar beer cooler, to stack cases of beer on so cardboards wasn't soaking up water. The bar mgr. was so happy after the first year, and now they are on their 3rd year of use.
Thank you!!! We just ripped shed siding of the back of historic house and the clapboards are in great shape but have to replace the trim pieces that were removed. This is exactly the info I was seeking! PVC run tomorrow!
I'm glad you touched on the sawdust! It's messy and difficult to remove!
Like getting coated in coconut flakes KLM 😐
@@TheHonestCarpenter at least coconut flakes aren't toxic!
PVC sawdust is the main reason I minimize my use of it. If you can't catch it all, it ends up in the environment where it breaks into microplastic, but never actually degrades. I'm not far from the coast, so any dust I don't clean up probably ends up in the ocean.
Plastics hold a lot of static electricity.. make sure your tools are grounded.. especially table and miter saws..you can install “static brushes” as well..( they are just conductive single row metallic bristles with a ground wire). also, it is in our nature to keep wood dry...don’t do that with PVC wipe or mist it with water and it will act like a K&N filter where the sticky oil grabs the blowing particles.. water does the same thing with PVC. I use a strong box fan with a floss filter ty-wrapped on the intake side... once the filter is dry just use a stiff brush and shaking to remove the PVC onto your tarp ( always cut on a tarp).
@@incognitotorpedo42 if you catch it all where does it go then? Into a plastic bag and ultimately into an open air landfill?
I have to admit i had not heard of this before but I have some outside trim that needs replaced so I will definitely check it out. Thanks for the information including the pros and cons. This helps a lot.
You're welcome, John. Thanks for watching!
Nice job! You answer sooo many questions and with excellent articulation.
Well done! I think you covered all the bases. I used PVC trim to wrap a deck and boat lift at several beach houses. We threw tarps down at the cutting area. Thanks for posting.
I research plastic pollution, and I’m so glad you mentioned the sawdust! It’s great that you do your best to reduce sawdust entering the environment. It would be nice to see guidelines from these companies for best practices.
Someone mentioned earlier to use water and ground the tools to prevent dust flying away and sticking to things.
I like to use it as a mulch for my garden.
Did you contact your Billy Gateies and like to give them sh..it ?
Thy will eliminate you like a POS
Please don't suffer ...
🙄
I was thinking putting out a large tarp down to collect what the dust collector doesn’t, but one gust of wind would ruin this idea 😅.
Thanks for this video. I'm just in the process of replacing some rotting exterior wood trim and have been thinking about using this kind of product instead of the wood version. It's available in longer lengths as well. Costly yes, but better for the wetter weather here in our area of the PNW.
Me too. I’m going to use it for my boat too.
Incredibly helpful video. Just bought my first PVC boards.
I’ve watched most of your videos!
I have a carpenter orientation for local 70 in Seattle on January 8th. I’m nervous, I really want this to work out because I can’t think of any other career that I would enjoy as much. Wish me luck!
I`d be interested in your thoughts on cement fiber trim. Similar workability with less expansion drawbacks.
So true about the mess it creates. I definitely wear a mask when I cut it.
you should also wear a mask when you cut wood
@@aardvark081 cool theory.
Really excellent video. I was just about to use PVC trim for the first time on a garage door opening on a house I'm rebuilding. This video answered every question I had. Thanks
Wow; saved me from disaster replacing trim for patio glass door! THX!
A very good video outlining all the pros and cons of the product, I used PVC to replace the soffits of my house and one advantage that you did not mention is that the colour of the PVC will not change over time. Mine has been up for over 5 years now and looks good now as it did when I installed it.
@John Fithian-Franks Thanks John! I hadn't even thought about that. So often during or after my installations, the product gets painted (typically by homeowner or another crew). But I see that Azek and the other manufacturers state that it doesn't even necessarily need painted, because of its water resistance. So it really must hold that trim white color indefinitely :)
I’ve been replacing a large amount of woodrot on my house and doing it with PVC. Drip edge at the bottom of siding is a pain to replace. A video on how to do this would be helpful for others.
Thank you, sir, for making this video. I’ve got some dry rotted exterior trim I have to replace and I saw your previous video that was about repairing dry rot but I wasn’t sure which kind of material to use. I’m probably gonna go with PVC. Thanks again. You saved me a shitload of money by helping me do it myself.
Thank you for all your tips. I’m a novice housewife and I like to do small jobs. Kudos!
I like this video and Thanks. I can see myself using PVC more especially around wet area. Also, the safety and environmental tip is appreciate. Thanks Again
Very helpful video. Hope those prices continue to drop, I really like the use of it.
Thanks Larry! I think we’ll see them come down more in 2020 🙂
In our dry Colorado market, we haven't really seen a whole lot of this. But, as I get more involved in siding and trim repairs as these "cookie cutter" homes made since the 90s start to show their flaws, I am really gravitating toward PVC. Some companies now have whole siding lines of PVC and I am really interested in using it in certain circumstances. Great video!
Just found this page and I’ve been binge watching. We had fascia and soffits rebuilt on c.1850 colonial. BEST DECISION! What I am not crazy about is the expansion/contraction. Need to replace some trim board now and contractor suggested Boral. Going to give it a shot.
Thank you for another very informative video. Great info here that I might need someday and I am glad that you put it together for us to enjoy and learn from it. Again, thank you!!!
Thanks for a great informative video. I always install it with the small trim screws rather than nails.
Thanks Doug! I've seen that recommended by a number of manufacturers, and I don't think it's a bad idea at all. Definitely strong attachment. And many of them make small custom plugs for the countersink
Another excellent video. Very clear description. I've used PVC brick mould but was unaware of PVC specific caulk. Thank you!
Getting ready to use some PVC trim for the first time. You addressed all my concerns and more. Thanks!
i believe the one drawback you forgot to mention was that the structural strength of this product is not the same as wood. I use it all the time but using it on windows that will get screwed into this product is always a challenge because the screws can be ripped out quite easily in comparison to wood.
For the dust sticking to everything, use Staticguard, the stuff that would typically be in the laundry aisle. The reason it clings is static charge, Static guard negates the charge. It is the same reason it is recommended to paint the PVC, otherwise the trim will actually attract dust, pollen and such.
It can store that static charge and light you up too lol i work in the plastic industry and tho your trim won’t shock the shit out of you I have been lit up from it . PP is also good for static discharge too . I was gonna give the same tip on the dust but ya beat me to it 😃
I have seen a lot of PVC fencing with green moss or mildew after being installed for a year or 2. Static charge might be the reason.
@@druegillis1744 Yeah let's just spew misinformation that moss never grew on anything until they created PVC sheeting 😆
I used pvc trim around the bottom of my bathroom just because it's not prone to damage from water,,, thanks for your input and valuable information... keep the videos coming......
Great info. I love finding info about new stuff I've never heard of now that I own a house and do all the repairs myself.
super great review ... i've been trimming garage door openings with this for a few years now and use my router to add special edges to the boards and the plastic dust is a HUGE concern and try to keep it all vacuumed up. The expansion and contraction of PVC has been a problem with call backs here in the cold north .... no matter how many fasteners i use some gaps open up a lot in the cold. I use plumbers pvc adhesive on joints and that creates a great strong meld and yet can still crack. I have now moved to wood again and even tho it needs maintenance over time ... the look and lower expense is an easier sell. Super long lengths of PVC is very difficult to make work. If anybody has more experience and can suggest something I would love it.
When wet wood expands in width and thickness but almost nothing in length. With heat PVC expands in all directions. The expansion is most notable and problematic in the board's length.
I like white trim so I only paint exposed cut edges. The factory edges of most brands of PVC trim (Azek, Veranda, etc) are unsightly. The corners are sharp and the edges rough and uneven. Royal brand at Lowe's have sides that match the texture of the broad surfaces and nice rounded edges.
I am new to watching you tube tutorials and have a very short attention span for a waste of time. your content today was useful, conside and well worth my while. Thank you so much! I will keep watching
Truly great info for homeowners, thanks so much!
Great info! over the past 20 years I have had to replace a lot of wood trim, posts, sills, brick mold, fascia boards, etc... due to water and/or carpenter bee damage. I always go with PVC, and I have not had to replace any of the PVC. I'm surprised you said your clients usually choose wood over PVC... they must like you so much, they want you to come back in 4-5 years and do the same job again... either that, or they have no intention of remaining in the home and just need a temporary fix to sell.
Thanks Jay Man! I know, wood is just a liability in a lot of these cases. In instance where I'm pressured to use it, I make sure to back prime and caulk end grain. But, as mentioned, most of the time I let them know I'm going straight for PVC
One of the biggest problems with PVC over timber is the fact that it doesn't rot and as a result does not give an early warning sign of much more serious damage taking place behind the PVC covering. An example of this I am coming across more frequently is roof leaks or any leaks where water can get behind the PVC and cause the wooden substructure the PVC is nailed to, to rot.
A good example of this is roofline PVC, where it is nailed to the timber rafters, if timber is used for the roofline fascia and painted, if the roof does develop a leak near the roofline, the paint will generally peel of or show other signs, such as splitting or cracking of the wood. This is a very important early warning sign and allows for the roof to be repaired before considerable damage is caused to the ends of the timber rafters, especially on properties with a deep over hang.
In my experience I have found that when water ingress occurs near the roofline where PVC has been used, you do not get the early warning sign you would get with timber, as no visible deterioration is seen on the PVC. This leads to the home owner being unaware that the timber rafters or other timbers behind the PVC are rotting, and by the time it does become apparent (due to rafter ends rotting to the point that the PVC fixings no longer have anything to hold onto and the PVC fascia becomes loose or falls off) considerable and expensive repairs are required..
I am finding an ever increasing number of problems and repairs associated with this type of damage and can only see this issue increasing as PVC roofline becomes more popular. In my opinion, PVC at first appears the perfect solution but in the long term, the early warning signs given by using timber and paint far outweigh any benefits or short term cost savings from using PVC.
I feel a lot more long term research needs to be done on the possible long term adverse effects of choosing PVC products over timber..
I'm guessing that the wood underneath must be painted with a quality paint. The top of the PVC outer trim could have a subtle downward slant to encourage drainage to the front, not rear of the PVC plus some kind of vertical channeling behind the PVC for water to leach out of. Great advice about the problems so a suitable preventative measure(s) can be worked out. 👍 Thanks!
@alex mcneely
That was a very long comment. 👍 I concur
@@seniorsmith8015 So, did it take you '3 months' to read? I'm guessing the real problem is with your attention span. Yeah, there are times we all are like that... SQUIRRL! 🐿🙄
@@jessejohnson159LOL. I am a slow reader. And squirls drive me crazy but I just viewed the video last night. 🍻
@@seniorsmith8015 😁😍👍
Thanks for the information. My roofer suggested replacing the fascia and rake boards with PVC instead of cedar, which is currently installed. Your video helped me to decide on the PVC.
I think it’s a good idea, MrDoc 👍
Very helpful video. Examples of practical application really helps to understand.
👍
Nailing small PVC trim (like quarterround): I found the trim frequently cracked, even with small finishing nails. I ended up pre-drilling with a tiny drill bit. Also, PVC trim is pretty brittle sometimes - be careful not to hit it with a hammer, or over-bend it. Another good place for it: below your hot water heater (If it is in a raised nook).
That's why God created the Paslode with 18-guage nails
Opinion on composite trim? Miratec appears to be mdf and LP smartside looks like osb
Paul, I'm totally with you're thinking there. I haven't worked with smartside yet, but nobody can convince me that Miratec isn't just glorified MDF. I know they seal ends and such, but the material just seems exactly the same, and it's bound to de-laminate when it gets wet. Thanks for watching!
Boral flyash n foam which can be submerged in water....
Thanks for producing this video! This may very well be the ONLY video on YT which mentions a PVC compatible construction adhesive! Loctite owes you for the sale.
Best explanation video. I added PVC trim to my garage and front of my first floor to reside my home in July, looks great but as the temperatures cooled I have almost a 3/8" gap between the boards now.
Fill it with silicone or soft rubber is my suggestion if the gap bothers you.
Someone mentioned earlier in the comments to use water and ground the tools to prevent dust flying away and sticking to things.
One thing to consider that isn't talked about a lot is the gas and smoke that emit from PVC in interior applications compared to wood.
Most houses today are already filled with OSB and various chemical laden products. This gives you much less time to get out of your house safely in case of fire.
Very good point indeed. We have too much OSB already in houses. Best just to use wood and oil it with Allback organic linseed oil and then paint it with Allback organic linseed oil paint. This paint does not peel, flake, crack or trap moisture, causing rot. If we stuck with this paint we'd be able to stick with wood and never have rot. If can be found at The Eco Living Room at 12 Cataraqui Street, just west of the Woolen Mill, for anyone in Kingston Ontario. In any other city, or if you want to check those products out first, you can visit www.sagerestoration.com. If you're in the US, you can visit www.solventfreepaint.com.
Caution should be taken when using PVC in long lengths where high temperatures are an issue during the day. I have seen boards that were snapped because of heating and cooling cycles causing excessive movement.
Did you watch the video? He gets into that.
@@escapefromny2012 Yes I did watch the video. But I also expounded upon it. Why do you ask?
This video was extremely helpful. I spent so much time trying to find out which adhesive would work to apply pvc crown molding in my shower between tumbled marble and greenboard. There is very little information on this topic. The Loctite PL Premium is what I went with. Also, your video is informative and efficient, no obnoxious music. Thanks!
Another good product to use for glueing your splices and outside mitres (which you should always do) together is 2 part PVC primer and glue. The same stuff you use for fitting PVC plumbing pipes together. Just be careful if you use the purple primer because it will stain the white boards.
Thanks for being powerfully honest about the world of PCV board, trim and adhesives as a proper chemical reaction is required for the longevity of any project. Not only a DIY’er but a retired ASE Master Tech who plans for the future in the house I live in but the child who will inherent it. They can look back at the work the old man did that was done right and looks as good as the day I finished it. Also, thanks for “Over-Dubbing” the vocals as too many just talk louder over the equipment. Clicked liked & subscribed.
@Dean Kay You're welcome, Dean, and thanks for watching! I really appreciate the feedback. I love hearing from other tradespeople, especially those outside of my field. And it's great to hear from a mechanic as highly certified and experienced as you. Good luck with your home projects, I'm sure you'll do them well! 🙂
6:35 Pump the brakes.. PL Premium expands, may want to go easy if you're going for a perfect fit with trim.
@P Christmas Very true. I've seen it bubble from exposed edges before as it dries. I'm yet to have a situation where it displaces trim I've tacked into place though. Can it expand that much? Maybe if it's in a big blob?
My biggest issue is with the material flex. It's a lot easier to make long runs look straight on old houses where nothing is straight with real wood whereas a long pvc run will contour to every single hill and valley of an uneven surface.
Depending on the thickness, this most definitely is not true.
Glad I found this video and you did a great job explaining the benefits of PVC. I just replaced my front entry door and was looking for something better than wood to use for the brick moulding that would hold up better in the Michigan winters. You just confirmed my choices so thank you! I picked a PVC brick mould and of course only the best DAP Alex Flex!!
I used PVC to replace the rotten wood on my front facia 12yrs ago and it's been great! It's done so well compared to it's wood counterparts elsewhere on the house I am now only using PVC for exterior trim and wood jobs that aren't load bearing. It's less work in the long run.
You left out that goggles should be worn! I had to have a PVC splinter removed from my cornea at the hospital! VERY PAINFUL..
Been there done that only it was metal and I had on machinest safty glasses. Were goggles over them chips can fly in under the rim. But they won't stop a busted metal object at high speed. Thats the safty glasses job.
Pvc dust is horrible.. I couldn’t imagine the pain of getting a sharp piece of plastic in your eye.. yikes
@@311mdub
No worse than a wood splinter.
@@oldtimefarmboy617 At least wood if not able to remove can eventually be reabsorbed into the body, plastics can't, same as metal. I have a couple metal splinters in both hands I will likely take to the grave.
@@jayclyde6045
Wood is far more durable than you think. If it were not removed from you eye quickly it area around the wound would get infected and the body's immune system would cause so much trauma fighting the infection that the eye would have to be removed to prevent damage to the surrounding area which include the brain.
Like it or not, that eventually would never happen because that eventually is way way too long to wait.
With that price differential, pvc ends up costing less. No labor on sanding, priming and painting. The biggest advantage is that pve requires no maintenence in future years. It's a great product that gives a way better looking finish than timber.
No mantinence? What about all the caulking joints you have to redo? With pvc joints over lap in the summer and open up in the winter.
@@Obshowersyndicate A high quality flexible caulking should move with pvc trim and eliminate gaps. The video did specify the flexible caulking from DAP.
Requires on painting or touch ups if you leave it white.
I'm finally going to tackle a bunch of trim replacement on my house. Been thinking about PVC trim, but haven't found anything big enough. Thanks for the hint about the sheets. I have a solution.
Thanks for this video. I have a porch that has wrapped posts that were done in wood like that. They’re terribly rotted now. I want to use PVC to replace them all. Now that I see this, that is absolutely the right decision.
You forgot the Strength differential between the two....
Termites and Bugs are not impressed with the stuff either :D
Another big plus, Andy! I imagine it doesn't have that much nutrition for them 😅
@@TheHonestCarpenter Around my area PVC as external trim on decks is a good preventative for carpenter bees which don't seem much affected be PT wood.
@@schsch2390 In my area " New Hampshire" the PVC decks that were installed 8+ years ago look like crap . PVC warps , it stains and the color fades . Wood just looks better cosmetically , it just has to be maintained.
When it comes to decks there is no win lol. Although mahogany or redwood is the best for a deck if you can afford it , slap a coat of oil based stain/sealer on it every 2 years and will last 20+ years .
Pressure treated can hold up for 20 years as well , the problem is nobody maintains it . Again every 2 years a coat of semi transparent or transparent sealer on deck boards . Do not use a solid stain or paint!!
The average homeowner stains a deck every 5-8 years or never , that's why they rott.
@@manchesterexplorer8519 After watching this video, and he was talking about how the sun heats it up and causes the expansion and contraction my first thought was well if you paint it and it moves, isn't the paint going to crack and peal?
I have a rotten deck and was thinking PVC may not be the answer.
But I have some rot near my basement door frame and I am guessing that the PVC will be my only choice due to moisture and bugs.
@@mo-reesespieces9066 PvC is a great product for problem areas for sure . With a deck it's hit or miss really.
Very good point about the pvc dust problem.
Thanks for addressing environmental concerns in your review of PVC.
I would like to do all of my trim on the outside of my house with PVC so that the trim will never have to be done again.
Keep up with the paint and you won't have issues . I work on farmhouses that are over 150 years old that have 90% original trim and clapboards because they're maintained .
The pvc makes your home look cheap like Tupperware , that's my only issue with it though especially pvc decks and railings 🤮
Let's not forget; PVC is flammable, more so than wood.
It also becomes brittle from exposure to the elements.
Correct, although paint can prevent exposure to UV which degrades it.
Azek is flame resistant; it will melt but not support open flame
This product has been invaluable on a 1920's bungalow rental property we own... in all the places you mentioned. We have a converted garage apartment that is grade level and has been flooded twice. It now has tile floors, smooth hardiplank interior walls for the lower 4 ft section near the floor throughout, and PVC baseboards. We have two sump pumps, but hopefully the rest of the updates will also help in case it ever takes on water again, at least with the cleanup/rehab process.
Love using this for doors and Windows and in bathrooms/laundry rooms; and pretty much is what use 100% of time, unless client says otherwise.
They’re starting to make more “adhesives & caulks” that are made for PVC, which is good, but even today....my local stores only care 1-2 kinds that are specific to PVC.
Nice vid, ✌🏻
Sand cellular edges with 320 grit and wipe w acetone sealing the open cells
Thanks for the tip Bryan! I'd read a few things about acetone, but hadn't tried it yet. How does it seal the cells? Does it melt them chemically? Acetone can be pretty strong stuff.
@@TheHonestCarpenter it was recommended to me in a seminar I took on PVC trim. The sanding kind of fills the hole and reduces them some. Then yes the acetone melts the cells "smooth" Also it cleans up marred pieces at Box Stores. Also. If a piece is gouged or has deep marring, I've had some success with a heat gun smoothing the face surface. Need to use caution not to go to far. I discovered this technique by mistake when I heated the grain side of some Veranda and the grain "went away"
Bryan Bahre
Nice. I’ve used a thin layer of pvc glue on the edges and let it dry then sand it. Acetone will be a cheaper way to go.
@@ronh9384 I had been annoyed by the edge finish of PVC since I first used it. It is suck a filth collector and looks awful. This method has helped me a great deal
With the crazy price of wood, pvc is actually cheaper right now
PVC has not exempted itself from the DIY price increases. Costs more than wood. ….. still. Plus lots of oil and gas products. 🤨
A 4' x 8' sheet of 3/4" PVC cost me $125.00 two weeks ago.
@@electricalron I've never seen a 3/4" full sheet sold in Canada.
Let's go Brandon #fjb
@@chrisgraham2904 well that sucks. All though if you can find 1x4 to 1x12 you should be fine. Consider yourself lucky cause 4x8 sheets of 3/4 PVC is heavy as shit. I hate when my sales person prices jobs out for me to use full sheets. It's a pain to rip it down by yourself and that's pretty much what a crew is for my company. 1 person.
Thanks for an excellent video and intro to this type of building material.
Excellent, informative, from start to finish. Thanks!
I love exterior PVC trim but IMHO it should never be used indoors in living space. It will off gas chemicals used in making it. Not good for living things. Just thought I would put that out there. Good video though.
bigelite94 what about water lines?
@bigelite94 Obviously all of us have drank or bathed in water that has been run threw PVC or PEX at some point and were still here so I don't want to blow things out of proportion. That being said there are a few points worth mentioning.
A.) All plastic off gases fumes, some kinds of plastics off gas more than others. Heat will increase this process and newly made plastics always off gas more than old stuff. Lower density plastics always off gas more than denser ones. Thats why I don't like PVC trim indoors because it's so light and airy there is alot of surface area.
B.) Paint won't do much to prevent gas escaping plastic does not matter much what plastic or paint you use.
C.) I hate the smell of PVC and love the smell of wood just MHO.
D.) If it's in your walls your probably not breathing anything it's off gassing anyway because it ends up in the attic.
E.) For pipes it pretty much some kind of plastic or copper. Copper is great except that it corrodes and leaks over time or clogs with hard water. You can use stainless tubing but it's expensive. Lasts forever though.
We all have to decide what risks we are will to take for what rewards. I honestly don't know if it would hurt anything living to be in a closed room with PVC over a long time, maybe nothing would happen. But I know for sure it won't help anything living. For this guy its wood, glass, stainless & copper everything. Good luck out there with your projects.
@The Next Chapter Hey I answered all your questions in another comment on this chain take a look.
@@lexandersantana8089 Answered this question in another response on this thread take a look.
Pricy but worth it. I use it everyday. Last as long as a brick. But the pollution is REAL.
So true, carterjon. I get a twinge of guilt every time I use it--but you just can't beat the impermeability
I have watched bout 10 k worth of you tube videos i have never been more pleased by the camera angles & zoom , voice explanations and best of all no music so i could clearly hear the instructions and all info top of the line video no contest ! thank you so much you are a master of your craft ! Don't think the manufacture could have explained their product better ? :-)
Thank you, Ken. Ethan puts a lot of time into them and has learned a lot about how to make a good video. We're glad you find them enjoyable.
BTW, If you are thinking about starting a new project or repair, please think about reserving a consultation at TheHonestCarpenter.com. We'll give you unbiased advice that could save you time, money, and heartache.
Ross James
Lead Consultant
TheHonestCarpenter.com
Again, lots of great tips n tricks. Thanks for posting. 👍