How to rebuild Thrustmaster TX & T300
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- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2022
- link to pictures of the control board connections and internal layout for rebuild guides as well as rehost of the Motor calibration software and calibration software guide: drive.google.com/drive/folder...
replacment bearings and bearing mod bearing sizes, you do not need to order from the links, I have put the sizes for each that can be sourced from your choice of bearing supplier, links are just for those who want an easy way to order.
Front Wheel hub bearing replacment need 1
68072ZZ size (35mmx47mmx7mm)
www.amazon.com/Shielded-Beari...
Rear wheel hub bearing replacment need 1
68052ZZ size (25mmx37mmx7mm)
www.amazon.com/uxcell-Bearing...
Motor belt tensioner roller bearing mod uses 6 bearings
MR93ZZ size (3mmx9mmx4mm)
www.amazon.com/XIKE-Bearings-...
Lower Wheel drive belt tensioner roller bearing mod uses 6 bearings
695ZZ size (5mmx13mmx4mm) please see note below for T300 wheels doing this mod
www.amazon.com/uxcell-Groove-...
Note about T300 wheels if doing the lower bearing mod
I was told by another youtuber that the T300 lower roller axles are slighty different from the TX base ones and that they had to cut and make new axles as the original axles get smaller in the middle and won't support the bearings properly. You should not need to do this on the TX base, only if you have a T300 base. link for an appropriate sized rod to fabricate new axles below, a manual hand saw will work fine to cut it as it is very thin metal, cut to the same length as the stock lower tensioner axles and install the same way as originals.
www.amazon.com/uxcell-100mm-S...
Dielectric grease to lubricate wheel internals, or any plastic safe grease can be used, if unsure use dielectric or silicon grease.
www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-820... 
Игры
I know this is old. I just wanted to let everyone know that you don’t need to re align the pulleys. The motor measures the end points every time it’s powered up. So no need to worry about about marking the pulley
I think he does it because the pulleys are not circular. He wants to keep the same bending to preserve their tension
Awesome! The only simracing user that I appreciate who really knows how to disassemble and rebuild by repairing a base. The rest of the simracer mortals only know what everyone already knows.
Thanks A LOT. My TX wheel started having some squeaky noises today, and my warranty is 3 weeks past. I contacted support but if they don't help, I'm sure your video will. I'm actually thinking about just fixing it myself than waiting for them. Thanks mate.
UPDATE: I just disassembled mine TX wheel and in european version (I think its european), some wires have ground cable soldered to the pcb. You can still disassemble it but be careful not to snap solders or wire. You just have to be more delicate until you can unscrew PCB.
Thank you a lot! I was looking for this kind of video to know how to disassembly the P2 cable from the wheel!
No problem. Glad it helped.
when doing it this way.. plug the wheel into the board.. and then have it run outside of the case.. allowing u to use for instance a different wheels buttons as a button box . makes it easier to navigate in game for sure
Very informative video. Thanks. It helped me a lot!
Although I never realised the word 'solder' had a silent 'L' in it! 😉
That's how us Texans say it. Hard habit to break.
Appreciate the tutorial. Opened up the top of mine to see why my wheelbase locks up on power up, can’t turn it without there being a grinding noise. Not sure what to do from here but I can at least see what I’m working with 😅
Muito bom seu vídeo, aliás o melhor que assisti até hoje, me ajudou muito para resolver o problema de rompimento da porca do limite de rotação do volante, consegui fabricar uma nova, porém creio que será necessário usar o software TX Calibration para colocar em ordem o forcefirdback, obrigada pelo vídeo.
Bearing mod into the white gear wheel seems delicate. I wouldnt risk my base for this, it would be nice to have custom wheel gear with bearing to replace the factory one
I suggest teflon grease safe on plastic & rubber feels like liquid bearings.
8:31 cat across 🐈⬛️
Belo trabalho parabéns. Você saberia me dizer quais a especificações das correias dentadas do volante T300? Gostaria de trocas as do meu equipamento.
Hi ZXR.. Great video and really helpful for the faulty Thrustmaster T300RS I bought in the hope of fixing it. I suspect the original owner has taken it apart before selling it to me. I am thinking I might need the Recalibration Software but unfortunately the link in your description is no longer working. Do you where I might be able to get the Software just in case it is needed?
@Simon Pennellier sorry for the late response, I still had the files on my PC so I have added them to the google drive link that contains the pictures of the wheel internals for reference. The link for the folder is here. drive.google.com/drive/folders/1fZa8CzkB49NxZ6nqt5mjgpYtXmSlPjLl?usp=sharing
Hey there. If you're still around, would you mind telling me if putting new grease inside would somewhat help with cooling? My T300RS has problems with heat. I don't think there's anything broken. I've changed the original fan to 60mm noctua, I've removed the base cover completely and on top of that I've got a desk fan blowing on the motor. It all has helped a lot but I still feel ffb fading away at times, especially on tracks with long sweeping corners where the motor needs to work the most ( Barcelona in ACC especially ). Playing in summer time is very frustrating. Sure I can lower ffb in the game but my performance as a driver drops and I like it as strong as possible.
Does anyone know where I might be able to get a replacement of the Black casing around the steering rod? and the white piece that spins inside?
There is still tx models that are alive? I went through 2 within 6 months. 3rd was out of warranty. First 2 suffered same symptom where the ffb would fade and give out. Fan worked entire time and it would even do it right from the get go so not sure the issue. 1 had a plastic bit on the back of the motor crack which at the time someone was 3d printing replacements. Eventually that one started doing the ffb fade and i upgraded to the ts-pc in 2020. There was a calibration tool for these back then, not sure if its the same you posted but was only ever a very short term fix. Crazy how old these are already lol.
Hi, amazing video!
I have an issue with mine if you could help?
My wheel used to have issues where it would spin left/right on its own whilst in game. Then also in game sometimes it would go crazy and spin till it hit the bump stop at one end (left)
I tried updating the firmware and calibrating the base but had no joy.
Now when I power the TX base on, nothing happens. If I manually spin the wheel left/right the wheel calibrates & then can be used. But there is no force feedback.
Have you heard of these issues before. I read it can be common. I’ve tired several times to get the unit repaired, but Thrustmaster do not want to know.
Your help would be much an appreciated!
Hey brother, I really appreciate the quality and hard work you put into this, great job for sure. I just received a brand new tx servo base and it seemed to working great for about 30 mins, I changed the rotation to 540 just to see what it was like, then went back to 900 and ever since I've had the most horrendous oscillation problem, you wouldn't happen to have any ideas on how I could fix it would you?
@dustywalker1982 I'm not sure, check to see if the motor sensor bracket is cracked like I showed in my video, or it may just be in game settings. If it only does it when you're not holding the wheel or lightly holding the wheel its normal. It's because it's trying to relay force feedback to you and if you aren't holding the wheel it will cause a feedback effect and get progressively worse. If it stops while you hold the wheel firmly it's doing what it's supposed to, if you don't like the effect that high you can lower FFB settings in game or through the thrust master app in windows.
@@ZXR_SBK i will check that out for sure, thanks for getting back with me brother, this is definitly something strange.. it sounds bad when i say "let got of the wheel" but what im refering to are the times when im supposed to let go of the wheel. I do nothing but drift in Assetto.. so when i intitate a drift and my rear end swings around.. i let go then catch wheel for the right amount of countersteer.. it does it then as well.. its way worse on transitions though.. if you were to watch my tires.. it looks like they're waving goodbye to someone while im trying to drift.. maybe it is my settings but ive gone through so many different setups trying to fix it.. its definitly something outside the norm.. ive live streamed to some really expereinced sim drifters and they all say they've never seen anything like it.. i dunno.. i just ran the motor calibration software so im gonna see if that helped
@@dustywalker8149 right on. Let me know what you find out, I saw you said it was a brand new base, so might just have a factory issue. I'd advise not taking it apart on that case since it will void the warranty, I think. I run a LUT file with my TX base in assetto corsa, I also drift. This can have a big effect since the game knows what to do with your wheel more accurately. Look up a video on how to do the LUT calibration if you aren't running one and try that. ZXR30#5972 is my discord tag. You can add me on there and we can chat easier/get together for some AC drifting.
@@ZXR_SBK roger that.. i just sent a fr..
@@ZXR_SBK yeah ive tried runnin a Lut.. no change..
Hello, I bought a brand new TX leather edition wheel and there is a serious problem with it. I play with three-four fingers(with one hand, no full grip) and regardless of the setting, from the recommended to almost maximum, the FFB is either absent or very faintly felt. When I tested the "forces" from the control panel, there are no vibrations, only the steering wheel turns with some of them. The store refused me a replacement, they sent it to a service center. What do you think the problem might be? Thanks!
El conector USB no tiene una parte soldada? Es que se me a roto el de mi t300 y voy a sustituirlo.
Great video. I just purchased a T300 base but found it to be broken. Do you know if/where I could get a replacement for the part of the quick release that bolts to the metal shaft with the 4 small Allen bolts?
Thanks
@dannyskinner79 unfortunately it's been hard to find individual replacement parts, the motor in my base just went out and I have one on order from overseas that "might" work but it's questionable. I botched the repair on my original one unfortunately so have to source a replacement. But for parts like that you pretty much have to buy another broken base to get a piece like that from what I have seen.
If you just mean the large plastic collar that tightens down to the wheel itself I think I have seen aftermarket replacements made from aluminum. Look up "thrust master quick release"
I have t300 rs after a minute of using it the gas pedal stops. Before that everything good. What could be the problem ?
@ZXR ~ Thanks for this- have seen a few videos similar but yours is excellent in comparsion, just a question on the T300 and lower tension in your comments, is their a source or more info on tthe lower belt ttensionr axel
ods beeing different and needing aftermarket rods - I already have the upper and lower tension bearings and even a replacement motor pinion to install as well, but I dont want to start the tear down if I also may need new rods\pins for the lower beaaring mod to be a success.
Yours is the first video I have seen mention a potential issue on the T300 lower tensioner 'rods\pins' potentially not supporting the lower bearinngs properly. Any pics or other further info, or other youtube videos -other than the other comments in this video about some kind of 'notch' in the middle of the T300 lower pins\dowels?
I am not sure if I want to go about tthe mod if have to purchase and cut to size, potentialy sand some steel 5mm rod\dowel\pins.
@ausdruid unfortunately I only have second hand info due to comments. I have not personally taken apart a T300 base, only the TX. It could very well be a revised part that is on newer TX and T300 bases. But in either case, you would be fine with the stock axles. The 2 outer roller bearings will be tight and provide enough room for the belt while the middle bearing might be a little "loose" as the axle gets thinner, but will act like a spacer for the 1st and 3rd bearings and won't make a big difference to feel.
@@ZXR_SBK Thank you, appreciate it, pending a rainy day without trucking to pull my wheel apart and do the mod :P
@@ZXR_SBK FYI - the axels are much different and the bearings dont fit. the OD of tthe shaft is much bigger than the 5mm ID of the recommended bearings (695ZZ).
I was that annoyed I put it all back together and forgot to measure and photo .. but the shaft is different and its also thiccker onn the ends- I was able to slighly gett a bearing over one ennd of the shaft - after sanding the shaft- but that will make the shaft sloppy in its housing if I have to sand it enough to make the bearing fit over it all the way.
New shaft is like ===----=== the == is aboutt 5.45 mm with the middle section thinner, about 3.7/3.8mm - without any obvious reason, so I most likely will find some 5mm rod and replace it to full length 5mm rod pins, with the stanndard 5mm x 3 bearings recommended.
Top tension bearing change went flawless. Bottom tensinoner - see comment below - post\axels are differennt in a big way.
@@ZXR_SBK tried to add this picture - not sure if its blocked previously?, as you mentioned in your description - here is a picture of my different lower tensioner axels and the replacement 5mm shafts (and bearings) i used. i.imgur.com/aZnBiQl.jpg
You saved my life, I disassembled my TX ~1.5 year ago to fix the main axle of the wheel and not took any picture to reassemble it again 😐. Also, do you know if we can live without the kinect sensor? My two wires went of the small board of the sensor, and my soldering work has not been executed very well. I powered it on, tested... and it seems fine.
You can use it fine without it.
Anyone find those white steering locks online as spare parts, mine is shredded to pieces and no amount of online searching has netted any results :(
Are the belts unique or U can freely find them and order them online? I'm thinking about rebuilding and modding my TX. So before disassembly I want to order everything :/
I belive they are an off the shelf part, but I did not research if they can be bought easilly, since both of mine were very tight after the bearing mods, I would think your stock belts should be fine as the bearings add a bit more tension to the belt system, and i think new belts may be too tight with bearings added.
Hi, I was looking how to disassembly my TX since I have a problem with it. I bought it 6 years ago with the F458 wheel. It always worked fine since this Christmas. My son had the SF1000 wheel. The wheel doesn't power on unless I turn it 360° on the right. Without that no power or it turns on/off (visible with leds and screen, etc.). The problem comes from the base, I tried two wheels with the same issue. I thought about a bad contact somewhere in the base, but I don't know where to search. Would you have an idea ? The base still works well with the F458 wheel. Thanks
@emilegravier8758 sounds like either a USB connection issue, which could be just the break away cable end , or the USB port you are using, try plugging in a different USB port first. You can find just the break away connector easily on sites like Amazon for a cheap fix if the plug is worn. (I will leave links at bottom of this comment.) My second suspicion would be the connector in the steering shaft might have an issue but if it works normally with the stock 458 wheel it may also be a fault within the SF1000 wheel causing the issue, but you said it does it with other rims, so possible the cable inside needs replacement.
2 Pack Replacement Dongle USB Breakaway Cable for Xbox 360 Wired Controllers - Dark Grey a.co/d/bjwH0as
@@ZXR_SBK Thanks for your reply. Your last supposition is the good one I think, since the problem occurs on both SF1000 wheels. I'll still try another break away cable end (already tried different USB ports) but I guess I'll have to open the base. I also contacted Thrustmaster support, no answer for now
Hey, fingers croseed that I can get a response here. So I have a TX Leather edition and my lower roller axles do indeed have a notch in the middle. I ordered the appropriate 5mm steeel dowel; however I found that the 5x13x4mm bearings didn't quite SNAP on to the new axle like the original. There is definitely some minor clearance that allows the ball bearings to full spin freely around the dowel instead of just the outer 'bearing' part. So my question is how drastic is it that 1 out of 3 bearings on each lower support doesn't have appropriate support if I decide to just use the orignal axles? The notch in the middle is probably 4mm instead of 5mm, so the middle bearing dips slightly from the tensioner belt applying pressure. I'm honestly at a crossroads as to which would perform better as both options have their 'faults'. Thoughts?
Honestly as long as it keeps tension on the belt, it shouldn't be an issue. The bearing will roll wether the inside is making contact with the dowel pin fully anyway. It's not going to make any big difference to the feeling like you would think, these wheels aren't made with precision tolerances to begin with.
@@ZXR_SBK Thanks so much for such a quick response. And I absolutely appreciate the input. I'll keep the dowel and cut it down, I think you are right that it is the more appropriate solution. Thank you again!
@@ZXR_SBK so, what causes this "notch"? I had my TX for a few weeks now and I've noticed that it has become increasingly notchy very recently in the middle before the belts deliver the resistance where it becomes smooth, but a very slight notchy sensation can be felt. Thanks.
@@V.M.E_01 the "notch" is not a feeling of the wheel. It is a physical notch in the lower roller belt tensioners themselves that we are referring to. It requires fabricating new axles to make the bearings fit if you have these style axles in the lower bearing.
@@V.M.E_01 to add to this, to help solve your problem, you would want to do the bearing mod, it will smooth out the wheel. Since regreasing would only solve the issue temporarily.
what advice do you have about polishing the worm gear, do you sand it down to like 600 or what
I just used mag polish. I didn't go crazy with it. I honestly don't think it would make much of a difference. Stepping up to a DD wheel base is the best path. After all the upgrades the wheel will still be notchy. I moved over to a DD wheel shortly after this video due to my motor failing and not wanting to spend any more time or money on the thrust master Eco system.
I just got the TX base less than two months ago, it was working great but when I got on yesterday to race I noticed the FFB wasn’t as strong as it was two days before when I stopped playing. I’ve messed with in game settings all I can, unplugged the base and plugged it back in, unplugged my pedals and plugged them back in. Nothing works it still feels weak at any setting. I can’t find anything online about this problem. Do you have any idea what might be going on? Is it broke already? I find it hard to believe it would be since it’s practically brand new but I have no idea. If you could help me out I would greatly appreciate it!
Not saying it's for sure this, but the TX and T300 are known to have the internal magnet on the motor come loose, and slip out of place and this causes the wheel to come out of calibration. A sure fire way to tell is to use the recalibration software I hosted on my Google drive in the video description, there are instructions with the program as well on how to use it. Mine had this failure, I just bought a different wheel so fixing my TX isn't a priority to me right now. But if the software fixes the FFB strength it's cause the magnet is slipping, only fix it to disassemble the motor (which requires desoldering the motor wires from a PCB inside the back of the motor casing) removing the motor shaft and using a stronger adhesive to keep the magnet in place) then running the recalibration software after it's back together to let the control board know the correct position of the motor.
Hello :) Do you know the exact source of squeaky noises on the T300 ?
I heard that it is the right lower gear angainst the plastic cap, so i sprayed some silicion spray down there (only opened case, not taken everything apart)
It went away for 2 days and came back...
Also it never squeaks when i start playing/its fully cold only after 30min - 1hr it starts (i dont run high ffb at all, but drive A LOT)
Possibly the belt rollers beside the motor, lubricate those as well. Also check belt tension and adjust if it is too tight or loose.
@@ZXR_SBKThanks alot for your reply, i already greased the rollers next to the motor...
So probably could be the rollers at the right bottom, or as i first thought, the gear at the right bottom thats beeing held by the plastic cap (that has the bottom rollers in it) hopefully can remove that cap while.keeping the belt on...
Now i just need to figure out how to get the front of the case loose... Any screws at the bottom, or just where the wheelshaft is ?
@@xiimracing just the screws around where the wheel shaft is. The bottom of the front plastic is just clipped into the bottom plastic cover. Mark the belt on the pulley, so if it does move you can align it again.
Hey brother, I put some clothes on my wheel and accidentally restarted my console so it started rotating and got stuck because of the clothes I had on it and then my wheel switched off and wouldn’t come back on , what might be the problem ?
Hmm. Hard to guess based off just that. Which wheel base is it specifically?
T500 is diff inside quite abit.
Yeah, it uses a brushed motor instead of the TX/T300's brushless system. I realized after I said it, I think I was thinking of the newer TS wheels. But in either case, thanks.
Omg, no, no I am afraind even to open the top cover))
А куда котик делся???