Adam Ondra #53: Spray Wall - An Essential Part Of Training

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  • Опубликовано: 13 дек 2024

Комментарии • 197

  • @jwest8330
    @jwest8330 4 года назад +1090

    A big shoutout to the directors/editors of this video here! I think the way you made it possible to actually understand the boulders by highlighting them 1. with the color and 2. with the circles was genius! I've seen many videos where watching people climb on these walls is just boring because you don't get the feel for that boulder. Really cool!

    • @maximedelmas
      @maximedelmas 4 года назад +6

      Can't agree more ! :)

    • @BenHawkins18
      @BenHawkins18 4 года назад +3

      Agreed, wonderful editing

    • @zcxzcx321
      @zcxzcx321 4 года назад +2

      Yea these edits were seriously well done. Simple but so damn effective

    • @nikki_parsons
      @nikki_parsons 4 года назад +1

      it was excellent editing

    • @AB-fh9zh
      @AB-fh9zh 4 года назад +2

      Yes. Adam's passion and the spot on editing make these videos an absolute joy to watch.

  • @3stooges0
    @3stooges0 4 года назад +185

    4:14 Future crusher enters bottom left

  • @kevin.fischer
    @kevin.fischer 4 года назад +125

    Completely agree on the spray wall. Best and most fun way to train for climbing. And most gyms don't have them...

    • @MPHshoots
      @MPHshoots 4 года назад +3

      It’s so frustrating. I wish my gym would set one up

    • @Sn1per9CZE
      @Sn1per9CZE 4 года назад +2

      @@MPHshoots TBH, spray walls can only cover a part of the climber spectrum (mostly 7A - 8C climbers), which usually isn't really beginner/intermediate-friendly.

    • @MateiloverMateilover
      @MateiloverMateilover Год назад

      @fI1cker Because he isn't a beginner?

    • @S___________D
      @S___________D Год назад

      @fI1cker He's the best climber in the world and the first one to ever climb 5.15d (9C). They say there's no stupid questions, well, yours it is.

    • @S___________D
      @S___________D Год назад

      @fI1cker He's been climbing since he was 3yo, so, for 27 years sheesh.

  • @bobtheslayer313
    @bobtheslayer313 4 года назад +51

    That was some great editing highlighting the holds on the spray wall. Thank you for that.

  • @spennyb123
    @spennyb123 4 года назад +17

    I can't believe I've watched 53 of these. It is the only thing on RUclips that I have post notifications on for and religiously watch every week. Adam is such an extraordinary human and it is inspiring to watch his grit and commitment.

    • @AdamOndra
      @AdamOndra  4 года назад +6

      Thanks for that! We appreciate that! 👍(AOTeam)

  • @ollie-d
    @ollie-d 4 года назад +41

    My gym lost its spray wall for a bit when they added it to the rotation, but now it's back to its torturous 60 degree glory

  • @MrThidious
    @MrThidious 4 года назад +19

    I love this Ondra series

  • @ma-cg2vj
    @ma-cg2vj 4 года назад +162

    2:41 lmao

  • @trigeektk
    @trigeektk 4 года назад +15

    The animations to show each problem are awesome!

  • @xfluto4806
    @xfluto4806 4 года назад +11

    Thank you Adam so much for these videos

  • @ejl74
    @ejl74 5 месяцев назад

    I love watching this while I climb on my homewall. It gives me so many cool ideas for new movement.

  • @kingc3409
    @kingc3409 4 года назад +106

    The guy at the front 0:14 represents the fans of Adam when he suddenly starts screaming xD

    • @ankhseram7228
      @ankhseram7228 4 года назад +2

      Ahah 😉

    • @vojtechslaby950
      @vojtechslaby950 4 года назад +3

      YOU think? he is actually a good lad and very strong - not just an any fan...

    • @scytaletleilax
      @scytaletleilax 4 года назад +3

      He was not ready 🤣🤣🤣

  • @michelechernega1782
    @michelechernega1782 4 года назад +2

    The graphics you added make all the difference, thank you! Makes it easy to follow along, as well as make us feel as if we almost could try to climb route ourselves, ha.

  • @LukeRockCimber
    @LukeRockCimber 3 года назад +1

    Every time I reset my home wall I watch this! Such a timeless episode!

  • @frankheiser2775
    @frankheiser2775 4 года назад +6

    Favourite video in the series so far! super cool with the "augmented reality" boulder beta on the wall. Keep it up

  • @franskmand1995
    @franskmand1995 4 года назад +10

    loved the part where you show the route, and the circle disappear after you get to the holds. perfect !!!

  • @thedukeminecraft
    @thedukeminecraft 4 года назад

    The editing is so well done. Showcasing the problems and highlighting the holds so its super clear! I love it! Thank you very much to the editors for the amazing work and Adam for the expert climbing!

  • @paulwilliam6180
    @paulwilliam6180 4 года назад

    Started climbing in 2002 with a 45 spray wall. Best indoor style. Creative, fun, and very social. I love how you’re advocating for it Adam!

  • @altcineva4188
    @altcineva4188 4 года назад +3

    Thanks for sharing your amazing training tips and your vision. These “for free” series are unique and very inspirational.

  • @michaelhoughton9926
    @michaelhoughton9926 4 года назад

    I really appreciate the use of the little circles it was a very elegant, unobtrusive and intuitive way to keep us from getting lost in the sea of holds.

  • @LFSJack
    @LFSJack 4 года назад +40

    Impressive how strong Rishat is! 5:55

  • @thiagowaldhelm
    @thiagowaldhelm 4 года назад +3

    Oooh this is probably my favourite indoor bouldering video so far. Perfect editing with highlighting the holds for each boulder problem. Awesome! 🍻🍻

  • @michaeloconnor9581
    @michaeloconnor9581 4 года назад +1

    Such a wonderfully made video!

  • @weekendbikingwarrior360
    @weekendbikingwarrior360 4 года назад +3

    like a cellar in Sheffield from 1993, Noice... one of the few training concepts we got right first time!

  • @letterZach
    @letterZach 4 года назад +3

    So glad he is training with Rishat, a speed specialist ! I hope Rishat gains all the experience he needs to crush at the Olympics!! 🤩

  • @RingoStarr_
    @RingoStarr_ 4 года назад +73

    2:40 Adam the baby

    • @JL-pc2eh
      @JL-pc2eh 4 года назад +1

      I like it that they dont cut out his screams :)

  • @plastikboyz364
    @plastikboyz364 4 года назад +7

    Thank you for this, now I can use this as another piece of evidence why my home gym should add a spray wall lmao. Also awesome editing I really liked how easy it made each boulder easy to follow

  • @BlocBusters
    @BlocBusters 4 года назад +2

    really liked the visualization of holds on the spray wall ;)

  • @loujetlag
    @loujetlag 4 года назад +1

    Beautiful vid, thanks, Adam! I hope our gym owners hear you!

  • @themeatpopsicle
    @themeatpopsicle 4 года назад +41

    Rishat is going to be a real contender at the Olympics. Mark my words.

    • @dlln.1353
      @dlln.1353 4 года назад +17

      I think he's the most well-rounded of all the speed climbing specialists. So if he manages a top spot in speed, then I wouldn't be surprised at all to see him on the podium.

    • @trezapoioiuy
      @trezapoioiuy 4 года назад +5

      @@dlln.1353 Yeah, most speed climbers are too specialized, in fact they're the ones who'd benefit the most if there were separate medals.

    • @jorgeloredo9603
      @jorgeloredo9603 4 года назад +4

      I agree with you! I think Michael Mawen too, he was a speed specialist that has been competing in bouldering a lot lately and doing extremely good

    • @themeatpopsicle
      @themeatpopsicle 4 года назад +3

      @@jorgeloredo9603 i got them mixed up too, Bassa is the speed specialist, Mickael is the all-rounder

  • @bepowerification
    @bepowerification 4 года назад +21

    2:41 Adam seems so young there. like.. 2 :D

  • @ChancellorMarko
    @ChancellorMarko 4 года назад

    its scary Adam is still getting better!

  • @jonasbaldauf7384
    @jonasbaldauf7384 4 года назад +2

    I am just lovin the new intro

  • @SKEPGFX
    @SKEPGFX 4 года назад +1

    That editing is insane. I want more of these in handfulls lol

  • @EzAvABlink
    @EzAvABlink 4 года назад +2

    Thankfully I feel like tools like the Kilter board are striving to bring the splash board back into prominence.
    Also I feel like the splash board at my gym is going to see plenty of use now that this video is up!

  • @ilyanikitin6248
    @ilyanikitin6248 3 года назад

    wow i didnt know how valuable these are, i have one at my gym and its digital, the holds for the route are highlighted with leds and you can control the incline of the wall with a remote control. Def going to try this.

  • @clintmayes4782
    @clintmayes4782 4 года назад +1

    This is all the gyms in Japan and I love it

  • @philippgothert7286
    @philippgothert7286 4 года назад +1

    Thank you for the words at the end! I think this will help, because people do what you say😂

  • @tadeassrobar3527
    @tadeassrobar3527 4 года назад +20

    Record the video With magnus midtbø please 😀

  • @andywml
    @andywml 2 года назад

    Epic!

  • @porrasm
    @porrasm 4 года назад +3

    I really should climb on these more, especially when my gyms have high quality spray walls.

  • @tiamat87
    @tiamat87 4 года назад

    so true more spray walls, please

  • @adampataki4319
    @adampataki4319 4 года назад

    Wow! That move!!!!

  • @SuperKneehow
    @SuperKneehow 4 года назад

    editor of this video is a god

  • @pavelbelik6174
    @pavelbelik6174 4 года назад

    Such cool boulder problems!!

  • @antonhardegg3168
    @antonhardegg3168 4 года назад

    What a nice video!

  • @tobiaszkedzierski5723
    @tobiaszkedzierski5723 4 года назад +1

    Great montage :D

  • @OneDerscoreOneder
    @OneDerscoreOneder 4 года назад

    this is fantastic

  • @PotHat
    @PotHat 4 года назад

    Thanks Adam

  • @DonPrus
    @DonPrus 4 года назад +7

    Will you make some moonboard sessions?

  • @skyblue2290
    @skyblue2290 4 года назад

    boulder 4 looked insane!

  • @karenesmonde-white2363
    @karenesmonde-white2363 4 года назад +1

    Great video! What music did you use?

  • @DonPrus
    @DonPrus 4 года назад

    Great video!

  • @tanguylehoux4270
    @tanguylehoux4270 4 года назад +1

    we have a spray wall in my gym its a very usefull tool for bouldering and doing endurance circuits /loop

  • @Supwiyaman
    @Supwiyaman 9 месяцев назад

    Can I come here, looks sick

  • @celestinstampfli3379
    @celestinstampfli3379 4 года назад +4

    Adam the G.O.A.T

  • @ApetitBuoN
    @ApetitBuoN 4 года назад

    Lokalblok v Praze na Andělu ... to je oldschool bouldrovka pouze se spray wally :D

  • @tiuclaudio
    @tiuclaudio 4 года назад

    Long live the good old school spray walls

  • @chooseacareer
    @chooseacareer 4 года назад

    Hey Adam!
    thanks for all the great quality videos! any special tips on the type of holds to put on a spray wall?

  • @pavelbelik6174
    @pavelbelik6174 4 года назад

    Rishad looks really strong!

  • @foihdzas
    @foihdzas 4 года назад

    Agreed! we have a small spray wall, where the holds never change, and its below other routes. Not inspiring at all. Here's hoping gym owners listen :)

  • @julija9096
    @julija9096 4 года назад

    Our gym is just spray wall and coaches show us boulders and I think that this is great way to get better becouse they know what every single one can do and they try to push our limits

  • @MyThazy
    @MyThazy 4 года назад +3

    Anyone know the name of the song at 2:46?

  • @kickimeijer5271
    @kickimeijer5271 3 года назад

    I wish we had this ” old” style of climbing in Stockholm today. The indoor climbing has changed so its not as good for training. Today its really only one place out of 6 places. And I mean training for everybody. What happenend? Will we see smaller places with only training, like Kilter, Moon etc?Thanks Adam for you input, maybe you and only names like you can change it🙏.

  • @LostinYTblackhole
    @LostinYTblackhole 4 года назад

    The only gyms near me are geared towards making the most money as possible. I use to be an employee at one of them for the free climbing lo, they just had us push all the programs and camps for kids that they had to offer and try to make people who can’t even climb V1s- V3s rent shoes and chalk. Not to mention the 5+ birthdays we had per day.

  • @stefan.h.666
    @stefan.h.666 4 года назад

    You are very welcome at Exxpozed Climbing

  • @Xfonk
    @Xfonk 4 года назад +2

    Nice!: D

  • @sanderwerelds364
    @sanderwerelds364 4 года назад +1

    Whats the angle of the main wall ? Thak u so much.

  • @JustSnowglow
    @JustSnowglow 4 года назад +1

    Nice Shaggy cosplay!

  • @drewharris7785
    @drewharris7785 4 года назад

    Stating the obvious but oh my, the muscles on this man!

  • @benedictionkupo
    @benedictionkupo 4 года назад

    great video :)

  • @kunx104
    @kunx104 4 года назад

    just started with these crazy spray walls and its really fun to do but also tiring as hell

  • @felix3821
    @felix3821 4 года назад

    sick !

  • @odgie9915
    @odgie9915 4 года назад +1

    Just goes to show. Even from what appears to be chaotic, flow and elegance is hiding somewhere.

  • @spielkiste_podcast
    @spielkiste_podcast 4 года назад +1

    We have a spray wall at my home gym but it's so steep and the holds are mostly so bad that it doesn't make much sense to train there without a certain amount of power and technique. Thats pretty unfortunate.

  • @ericconnor3728
    @ericconnor3728 4 года назад

    2:45 yay

  • @raymondfoo9045
    @raymondfoo9045 2 года назад

    How does spray wall compared to moonboard or tension board regarding the effectiveness of training?

  • @seanjcurry696
    @seanjcurry696 4 года назад +3

    the move at 4:47 .. wow

  • @elwiz81
    @elwiz81 4 года назад

    wdychanie magnezji jest bardzo szkodliwe

  • @Friskmest
    @Friskmest 4 года назад

    He,s perfect body. 💪🏻💪🏻💪

  • @manucortina1600
    @manucortina1600 4 года назад +1

    2:41 NEEE!

  • @olivierdlc1833
    @olivierdlc1833 4 года назад

    Old gym are the best to get strong physically.

  • @jacobwernerus3206
    @jacobwernerus3206 4 года назад +1

    2:43 hahaha

  • @DirtyPoul
    @DirtyPoul 3 года назад +1

    As a beginner, I don't like spray walls unless I have an experienced climber to give me problems. Otherwise, it's just too daunting for a beginner like me to even know where to begin with route designs. It's really difficult to know roughly how difficult the problem will be when you're a beginner.

    • @Frodoswaggns
      @Frodoswaggns 2 года назад

      STOKT app, your gym might have problems already set on it via that app!

  • @paulliptrot3098
    @paulliptrot3098 4 года назад

    Hi adam, I am in the process of building a home wall. Possible may turn into a spray wall type wall. Space is a limiting factor. The only space available is in my loft. To maximise the length of the wall and to make the build simpler the angle (on one side at least) will have to be 60°. Do you think this is too steep for a home wall? I am concerned that the angle will limit its usefulness. I do have plans in the distant future to add a 45° or 25° on the other side of the loft but the pitch of the roof will result in this side being a lot shorter (I.e 2.5m ish) and cost is also a factor. I am currently climbing V3 to V05 and struggle to fit more than 1 gym session a week in due to work/family commitments. So the idea of the build is to increase this to two or even three a week. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

  • @charliexoxox
    @charliexoxox 2 года назад

    i replayed 3:50 onwards at 0.5 speed probably 10 times to figure out what the heck is going on… still haven’t figured it out

  • @Theninjaonthemountains
    @Theninjaonthemountains 4 года назад +19

    spraywall = moonboard on steroids

  • @madelinepindell7870
    @madelinepindell7870 4 года назад +1

    2:42 you’re welcome

  • @ondrejstolicka317
    @ondrejstolicka317 4 года назад +1

    Jak bylo v Brně na závodech? A byl jsi druhý gratuluji

  • @Eric-qj9zp
    @Eric-qj9zp 4 года назад

    yes please

  • @aviadglove7
    @aviadglove7 4 года назад +1

    would you say there is a certain level you need to be on to be able to train on this kind of wall?
    i mean i get that its a training tool, but can beginners use it as well? lets say someone who feel comfortable on V3/4?

    • @nickbedford
      @nickbedford 4 года назад

      swaglord I found that I needed quite a bit of foundational finger and arm strength (8 months climbing so far plus recent campus/finger board training) before I was able to do anything on our gym's 30/45° spray wall. I'm only able to manage V1/2 problems but they feel a good bit tougher than the normal gym climbing. Kinda matches my outdoor bouldering experience so far. Before now, I would be baffled at how strong you needed to be even to hold onto some of the spray wall holds.

  • @LukeRockCimber
    @LukeRockCimber 4 года назад

    Anyone know what the angle of the wall at 2:54 is?

  • @antoinearnaud1126
    @antoinearnaud1126 4 года назад

    What is the brand of the big red slopes?

  • @erispe
    @erispe 4 года назад

    I didn’t quite get why these walls are better for training. Is it because you have more problems to do than on a normal wall? Also I wouldn’t be able to find any routes on one lol.

  • @drglobule8a
    @drglobule8a 4 года назад

    the ability to set up problems just by pointing at the holds is indeed awesome. I miss my old gym for that.

  • @guilhermegomes1314
    @guilhermegomes1314 3 года назад

    (naive beginner question) how does one know which are the bolder problems on an spray wall?
    I was only able to understand what was going on because of the circle markings on the edit, but if I actually went to a spray wall how would I know what to try?

    • @mariusjns
      @mariusjns 3 года назад

      You make your own problem. Endless possibilities

    • @guilhermegomes1314
      @guilhermegomes1314 3 года назад

      @@mariusjns oh I see, thanks!
      I imagine this type of wall is not so good for beginners, right?

  • @richarddoan9172
    @richarddoan9172 3 года назад

    Any idea what the angle of the wall is?

  • @LucasWildTheeWildBoy
    @LucasWildTheeWildBoy 4 года назад

    What is the height of that spray wall? Seems like a really good height.

  • @JohKemStYl3
    @JohKemStYl3 4 года назад +1

    Spraywall is really really hard for me for some reason. It is nearly impossible to do several routes on one day.

    • @leoingson
      @leoingson 4 года назад

      For me, too - it seems to be about work capacity (tank is empty much faster if strength is involved), and getting used to spending that type of energy(system). Are you the skinny endurance type?

    • @tathtath
      @tathtath 4 года назад +1

      because you need to rest between attempts even up to 10 minutes

    • @JohKemStYl3
      @JohKemStYl3 4 года назад +1

      Bla Blum Yes I am the skinny endurance type. I can do maybe 2-3 routes on the spraywall and that is the whole training.

    • @leoingson
      @leoingson 4 года назад

      @@tathtath Yeah, generally that helps. Only a bit tho, if the intensity is too high (for most people it's ok).

    • @leoingson
      @leoingson 4 года назад

      ​@@JohKemStYl3 I guess we have to slowly up the work capacity, and step by step introduce intensity to the body. Additional strength training should help. Search for "mid-5.13" in this article: www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-007-steve-bechtel-training-power-endurance-running-weight-loss/

  • @izquiel2
    @izquiel2 4 года назад +1

    More spray wall please gym owners.