I’ve had a wobbly crank pulley causing a vibration that damages the front main seal and causes oil to leak. After replacing the pulley, having it replaced by a dealership, and redoing the timing I’m still getting the same problem. Is it possible for the spider gear to be a little misaligned with the engine still running and no lights? Also I snugged the crank bolt onto the pulley with someone just holding it against the spider gear so idk if it’s not going on as evenly as it would with that gold colored tool
@@anthonyguerra7181 Interesting. Was the lower timing cover with the built in front crank seal that is behind the vibration dampener replaced? As for the spider gear, the way they are keyed on the crank side and the pulley side, it would be very noticeable if it wasn’t installed correctly. If it’s not installed correctly you will have a large gap in between the inside lip of the pulley and the lower timing cover. 2-3 mm gap between them is about what it should be. If it’s way bigger than that, then yeah, the gear could be installed incorrectly. Without seeing it in person though, that is the best diagnosis info I can really give you on that. Hope this helps! Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
@@immitsimad Probably not. There will always be a very tiny amount of wobble but if you have a lot then you either have a worn vibration dampener or something else going on. Hope, this helps. Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
That is the purpose of this component, to cut down on engine vibration. I just happen to be installing one that is after market and helps reduce that vibration even more.
I did this twice and it keeps slipping on the spider gear when torquing it down, its really hard to do at home with a jack and limited space. Now its wobbly and leaking oil..
If you use the tool correctly it should press the crank pulley into the spider gear. It only lines up one way correctly though, there is a “toothed key” that you have to feel out by loosely turning the pulley to match it up then put the tool on and snug the bolt down by hand. Now that you say that though, to keep the crank from turning over when you’re tightening down the bolt, there is a crank lock tool that I forgot to specify. Sorry about that.
@@RedsGarageOfBlue yep got the counterhold tool and always snaps out when im at the end of torquing it.. i guess thats the problem right there. Its just really frustrating when you put everything back together for the 3rd time to try it and it still wobbles
@@qb93 Yeah. I always try to turn it over by hand to see if there is significant pulley wobble. Definitely don’t want to start the engine and that spider gear slips. That’s an expensive day right there.
May heaven bless you for showing the right tool and sharing this!
@@john_dee1431 😂😂 Thank you!
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
Good stuff my guy
Thank you sir!
I’m thinking about doing this to my car now 😀
Glad I could help with the encouragement!
I’ve had a wobbly crank pulley causing a vibration that damages the front main seal and causes oil to leak. After replacing the pulley, having it replaced by a dealership, and redoing the timing I’m still getting the same problem. Is it possible for the spider gear to be a little misaligned with the engine still running and no lights? Also I snugged the crank bolt onto the pulley with someone just holding it against the spider gear so idk if it’s not going on as evenly as it would with that gold colored tool
@@anthonyguerra7181 Interesting. Was the lower timing cover with the built in front crank seal that is behind the vibration dampener replaced?
As for the spider gear, the way they are keyed on the crank side and the pulley side, it would be very noticeable if it wasn’t installed correctly. If it’s not installed correctly you will have a large gap in between the inside lip of the pulley and the lower timing cover. 2-3 mm gap between them is about what it should be. If it’s way bigger than that, then yeah, the gear could be installed incorrectly. Without seeing it in person though, that is the best diagnosis info I can really give you on that.
Hope this helps! Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
If my crank has been wobbling around and I go through this process with the central lock tool will it bring it back straight again?
@@immitsimad Probably not. There will always be a very tiny amount of wobble but if you have a lot then you either have a worn vibration dampener or something else going on.
Hope, this helps. Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
vibration dampen? this thing can adding comfort?
That is the purpose of this component, to cut down on engine vibration. I just happen to be installing one that is after market and helps reduce that vibration even more.
I did this twice and it keeps slipping on the spider gear when torquing it down, its really hard to do at home with a jack and limited space. Now its wobbly and leaking oil..
If you use the tool correctly it should press the crank pulley into the spider gear. It only lines up one way correctly though, there is a “toothed key” that you have to feel out by loosely turning the pulley to match it up then put the tool on and snug the bolt down by hand.
Now that you say that though, to keep the crank from turning over when you’re tightening down the bolt, there is a crank lock tool that I forgot to specify. Sorry about that.
@@RedsGarageOfBlue yep got the counterhold tool and always snaps out when im at the end of torquing it.. i guess thats the problem right there. Its just really frustrating when you put everything back together for the 3rd time to try it and it still wobbles
@@qb93 Yeah. I always try to turn it over by hand to see if there is significant pulley wobble. Definitely don’t want to start the engine and that spider gear slips. That’s an expensive day right there.