Thank you so much for this video!!! The first time I watched it I told myself there was no way I was going to attempt this because I was paranoid about removing the motor mount bolts. After thinking about it for a couple months and working up some nerve, I did it and succeeded!! I also have a 2013 GTI. Here's a few things I did differently: I had a really hard time trying to figure out how to remove the aux coolant pump electrical connector. At 5:20 I slowed the video to 0.25 speed and watched his left index finger. A part of the connector slides out and then you remove it. I didn't have the right size extension to get to the 12mm triple square bolt on the aux coolant pump bracket, so I removed the T35 bolt holding the aux coolant pump to the bracket. You can see the bolt I'm referring to beside his index finger around the 5:20 mark. I did the bungie trick with the pump, but never removed the bracket. I got to the upper A/C compressor bolt from the top of the car and used a 13mm socket with ratchet and no extension. I completely undid the three A/C bolts to give me more room to work on the 12mm triple square bolt holding on the bracket and the 5mm bolt on the tensioner. It was really convenient having the A/C compressor further out of the way. If you do this, remove the electrical connector from the compressor so you don't strain the cable. Right before I dropped the engine to do the tensioner swap, I put the A/C compressor back in place with the lowest bolt (just a few threads) because it was resting on the intercooler air pipe and wouldn't have anywhere to go when I dropped that side of the engine. After getting the motor mount bolts back in, I removed the one A/C compressor bolt to have room to reinstall the 5mm bolt for the tensioner and the wiring bracket. I only jacked up my car on the passenger side. If you have big hands, this may not be the job for you. Mine are small and it was tight, but I was able to get it done. Leave yourself plenty of time. I spent about five hours doing this. I went slow, and had a laptop right by the car watching the video step by step.
No problem at all, glad you found the courage to perform the job yourself after watching my video! Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
I've got a CDAA 1.8 TSI in my Skoda that uses the same tensioner, and the pulley bearing on it is noisy... I was going to replace it until I saw this video. It's about $10 more than a tensioner for a replacement pulley kit and that requires far less effort to install. I have to give VW credit where credit is due - Only *they* could design an accessory belt tensioner that needs the engine dropped to install. :D
Yeah, you can do the pulley by itself if that is the only thing that is bad. Those bearings do go bad. In my case though the spring inside the tensioner itself was getting sloppy so I did the whole thing.
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair Ah yeah, my tensioner mechanism is fine. No notchiness when it moves, it's smooth, and is applying enough force. Just a noisy bearing.
Sorry, I don’t give out torque specs on my channel to help limit any liability I might have. I leave that up to the viewers to research that. I just give the physical step by step on how to make it through the jobs.
@@emune1111 If you detention the tensioner and the spring does not pull it immediately back into place when you let off tension then yes. The spring should be strong.
A successful installation had done by reference on this video. Nice video! Something I want to "feedback" to community: Job time, half hour job for experienced technician, 2 hours for completed tools DIY , 3 hours for incomplete/unsuitable tools DIY. Intermediate skills needed. Fyi I removed only water pump harness screw and engine mounting: 1. Turbo charger chargepipe: it does block on belt installation but can be just slide in the belt by turn it 90° 2. Water auxiliary pump harness mount, it did block, remove it and temporary move it to another side 3. AC compressor, it didnt make block, I think it should be fine. Just remove the tensioner bolt straight away 4. Remove tensioner first, then the ring. remove tensioner using prybar dont pry it by pulling, pry it by twisting, twisting are easier because it didnt make much traction to the shaft, I pry it by using only a little scissors 5. Lowering engine was needed, verify tensioner can be take out anytime, stop droping the engine, jack it point on right side of pan (center most of vehicle) for easy adjustment while you mount it back later 6. As 5, adjustment MUST done by remount your engine. A lil bit misalign is fine. 7. everything going backward, happiest time. Verify a successful installation, remove sparkplug harness and start the engine, engine will not start, but belt are cycling , observe belt still intact, then reattach the harness, start engine and observe again until warm. Verify it didnt make funny sounds. For DIYer: Use correct tools, always use hardened bits like cr-v or similar, cheap bit damage your bolt, dont use powered tools on tightening or loosening, only use powered tools at the loosened free bolt for faster removal, its for safety if you damage the bolt you fucked up, like really fucked up because you ll now need to tear everything apart and really drop the engine down to floor and extract damaged bolt.
When you see excessive movement in the tensioner when tapping on the accelerator pedal or you hear the belt chirping. Hope this helps, don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already. Thanks!
@@benhajdu4040 There is, I don’t give torque specs out on my page. I leave that to the viewers to do their own research. I just give the visual step by step. 👍
@RedsVolkswagenRepair naw I have the vw repair manual. Doesn't specificy a torque spec. Wasn't knocking you I'm knocking vw. Horrible design for a tensioner and so vw of them not too include a torque spec xD
@@benhajdu4040 Oh okay😂 Yeah, I don’t have access to VW’s repair manual anymore. I know Alldata a.k.a. “Somedata” is missing a lot of torque specifications for any given job. It is a weird design for a tensioner though.
Depends on if it is an earlier or later Mk6 GLI. If the engine cover looks the exact same then yes. If it is an all black engine cover then no. Hope this helps. Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
Philip Ornelas Absolutely. Just remove the belt and the two screws holding the hard coolant lines above the alternator and it will squeeze through the top. Don’t forget to subscribe!
Hi! Very good video thanks for it! Could you please tell me what kind of 16 bit did you use for the tensioner release? And what kind of 3/8 ratchet was used?
Not sure exactly which portion of the video you are referring to where I use a “16 bit”, but I list all of the tools needed for the job at 0:55. Hope this helps! Don’t forget to subscribe if you already haven’t, I try to put a video out every week. Thanks!
If I remember correctly, that serpentine belt tensioner is much easier. It is held on by two aluminum T45-50ish bolts on the belt side. Just take the belt off then the tensioner is right there. Not a whole lot of work. Make sure you get two new bolts and torque them down, they snap super easy because they aluminum.
Is this procedure similar to a 2013 volkswagen CC? I have to help my cousin replace this tomorrow. Im used to working on mercedes but i have yet to work on a volkswagen. Thanks
Yeah, same process. The only difference might be the clearance between the body of the car and tensioner when trying to pull it out. Thanks for subscribing!
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair Thank you very much for the reply. I have a question about the DSG transmission. Is there away to disable the "creep" when letting off the brake at a stop so that it feels more like the BMW DCT which doesn't creep? I like the feel of a true automated manual
@@ryanjade2836 I don’t think there is. If there were you would have to go in and change the coding and to do it through VAG COM which cause upwards of $300.
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair I just finished the job and your video was extremely helpful. We made a slight error however. When taking the engine mount bolts out, the one closest to the firewall stripped some of the threads in the hole towards the top. I think the mount was on too much of an angle when we took the bolt out. Anyways, it was a little difficult getting threading back in but we were able to get it started and into the good threads toward the bottom and torque it down. Is it okay to leave it like this? Everything is running great now.
@@ryanjade2836 If you were able to tighten them all the way down and torque them you should be good. If you ever have to take that bolt out again for whatever reason you might end up having to replace that bolt and the bracket that it threads down into, the one that bolts to the side of the block. Not a super hard correction.
Hmm, not sure what kind of extra tools you might have access too but I would try using a mini 90 degree pick. From the opposite side of the tab where you would normally squeeze with your finger, stick the pick in there and get under the locking tab. Then maybe take some normal pliers that will open wide enough to get around the connector. Don’t squeeze too hard, just enough to get a good grip. Then wiggle back and forth while pulling the connector slightly in the direction of removal. Hope this helps. Don’t forget to subscribe! Thanks!
@@blindabinda1234 Not sure. All I can say is that it was made by Germans and they over engineer everything. Sometimes making things better, sometimes making things worse.
Absolutely! I like to leave that up to the viewers discretion. These are just how to get the job done videos. I don’t want to be liable in any way for giving the wrong specifications.
Hi Red, nice work! We have had oil from filter leaking on the alternator and belt and now no charge to battery. Would a clean up suffice or am I up for replacement. Thanks David
Thank you! First off the belt will need to be replaced due to being rubber and oil saturated, it will swell up and come apart and get tangled up behind pulleys which never has a good outcome. As far as the alternator, when oil makes it down inside it will most likely need replaced. If you have a known good battery and your system is not charging between 14.2-14.6 volts, that would be the first obvious culprit I would suspect. Don’t forget to subscribe!
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair thanks for the reply I will be putting new belt on today after cleaning the oil off and out of everything I did find that there are associated fuses in a rack on edge of the fuse box unfortunately they are fine So on with the new belt and test. Cheers
Not sure if you can purchase it separately. This single component consists of two parts, the pulley with bearing and the tensioner with internal spring. I’ve seen both go bad and they have different symptoms. I’ve only ever know it to be replaced as one entire piece. Hope this helps! Don’t forget to subscribe if you have not already done so!
@@ML-vk8ev No problem. Also very common. That's a clutch pulley. If you take the belt off of it and spin it by hand it should spin freely one direction separate from the alternator internals and lock up in the other. When they go bad they lock up in both directions and spin the alternator internals in both directions.
I did mine by taking out the alternator. I found the access created to see things helps me. I am not fond of laying on the garage floor under the car. Getting old. If I had a life - well then maybe this way. Alternator out is a 10-minute job for me.
I don't understand what you are trying to say. But this is all you need to do to perform this job. The engine was lowered in this video, I talk about and show that.
Nice detailed video, thanks. But question for you how wise and safe it is to have the weight of the engine resting on that thin piece of sheet metal we call oil pan, especially if they are rusty like mine? Thanks agin
Kristijan Coric If your oil pan is rusty and not as thick as an oil pan in normal working order, I would recommend replacing it first and then performing this job. I’ve never seen an oil pan on this engine collapse from the weight of the engine. I’ve seen technicians roll the engine out balancing on the jack and lifting the car up with no issues. This is a fairly small and light engine overall. Plus, in this situation you are only applying a percentage of the weight of the engine on the oil pan because it is supported in two other areas: the lower transmission mount and the drivers side transmission mount. Hope this helps. Thanks for the question and don’t forget to subscribe with notifications. More videos coming soon!
Thanks 🙏, one of the very best explanation all experiences and easy to follow training videos. A wonderful accomplishment with the least parts removed and replaced. I believe you can make a great teacher for the training or vocational training of your students to become future tech. Begin small and test yourself to greatness. Remember a good teacher is valued for the future.
The pulley wasn’t the problem. The spring built into the tensioner became weak and created belt slap. If the bearing in the pulley was loose or roaring, of course.
@@Ape76 Dude, no it wasn’t lol. I have worked on and diagnosed cars every work day professionally at the dealership level for the last 15 years. I know when a pulley is bad and when a tensioner is bad. Get out of here.
Thank you so much for this video!!! The first time I watched it I told myself there was no way I was going to attempt this because I was paranoid about removing the motor mount bolts. After thinking about it for a couple months and working up some nerve, I did it and succeeded!!
I also have a 2013 GTI. Here's a few things I did differently:
I had a really hard time trying to figure out how to remove the aux coolant pump electrical connector. At 5:20 I slowed the video to 0.25 speed and watched his left index finger. A part of the connector slides out and then you remove it.
I didn't have the right size extension to get to the 12mm triple square bolt on the aux coolant pump bracket, so I removed the T35 bolt holding the aux coolant pump to the bracket. You can see the bolt I'm referring to beside his index finger around the 5:20 mark. I did the bungie trick with the pump, but never removed the bracket.
I got to the upper A/C compressor bolt from the top of the car and used a 13mm socket with ratchet and no extension.
I completely undid the three A/C bolts to give me more room to work on the 12mm triple square bolt holding on the bracket and the 5mm bolt on the tensioner. It was really convenient having the A/C compressor further out of the way. If you do this, remove the electrical connector from the compressor so you don't strain the cable. Right before I dropped the engine to do the tensioner swap, I put the A/C compressor back in place with the lowest bolt (just a few threads) because it was resting on the intercooler air pipe and wouldn't have anywhere to go when I dropped that side of the engine. After getting the motor mount bolts back in, I removed the one A/C compressor bolt to have room to reinstall the 5mm bolt for the tensioner and the wiring bracket.
I only jacked up my car on the passenger side.
If you have big hands, this may not be the job for you. Mine are small and it was tight, but I was able to get it done. Leave yourself plenty of time. I spent about five hours doing this. I went slow, and had a laptop right by the car watching the video step by step.
No problem at all, glad you found the courage to perform the job yourself after watching my video!
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
this is a great video for replacing the tensioner on these cars. Thanks!!
Glad I could help!
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already!
You did a great job buddy! Subscribed!
Thank you!
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair You're welcome Buuddy!
I've got a CDAA 1.8 TSI in my Skoda that uses the same tensioner, and the pulley bearing on it is noisy... I was going to replace it until I saw this video. It's about $10 more than a tensioner for a replacement pulley kit and that requires far less effort to install.
I have to give VW credit where credit is due - Only *they* could design an accessory belt tensioner that needs the engine dropped to install. :D
Yeah, you can do the pulley by itself if that is the only thing that is bad. Those bearings do go bad. In my case though the spring inside the tensioner itself was getting sloppy so I did the whole thing.
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair Ah yeah, my tensioner mechanism is fine. No notchiness when it moves, it's smooth, and is applying enough force. Just a noisy bearing.
Great video, thanks for the help!
No problem, thanks for subscribing!
What's the Torque on the rear tensioner bolt?
Sorry, I don’t give out torque specs on my channel to help limit any liability I might have. I leave that up to the viewers to research that. I just give the physical step by step on how to make it through the jobs.
I changed the alternator, If the tensioner seems stiff when installing back belt, would that indicate a bad belt tensioner?
@@emune1111 If you detention the tensioner and the spring does not pull it immediately back into place when you let off tension then yes. The spring should be strong.
A successful installation had done by reference on this video. Nice video!
Something I want to "feedback" to community:
Job time, half hour job for experienced technician, 2 hours for completed tools DIY , 3 hours for incomplete/unsuitable tools DIY. Intermediate skills needed.
Fyi I removed only water pump harness screw and engine mounting:
1. Turbo charger chargepipe: it does block on belt installation but can be just slide in the belt by turn it 90°
2. Water auxiliary pump harness mount, it did block, remove it and temporary move it to another side
3. AC compressor, it didnt make block, I think it should be fine. Just remove the tensioner bolt straight away
4. Remove tensioner first, then the ring. remove tensioner using prybar dont pry it by pulling, pry it by twisting, twisting are easier because it didnt make much traction to the shaft, I pry it by using only a little scissors
5. Lowering engine was needed, verify tensioner can be take out anytime, stop droping the engine, jack it point on right side of pan (center most of vehicle) for easy adjustment while you mount it back later
6. As 5, adjustment MUST done by remount your engine. A lil bit misalign is fine.
7. everything going backward, happiest time.
Verify a successful installation, remove sparkplug harness and start the engine, engine will not start, but belt are cycling , observe belt still intact, then reattach the harness, start engine and observe again until warm. Verify it didnt make funny sounds.
For DIYer: Use correct tools, always use hardened bits like cr-v or similar, cheap bit damage your bolt, dont use powered tools on tightening or loosening, only use powered tools at the loosened free bolt for faster removal, its for safety if you damage the bolt you fucked up, like really fucked up because you ll now need to tear everything apart and really drop the engine down to floor and extract damaged bolt.
Thanks for the feedback!
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair Sure you deserved!
How do I know when I have to replace my belt tensioner?
When you see excessive movement in the tensioner when tapping on the accelerator pedal or you hear the belt chirping.
Hope this helps, don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already.
Thanks!
My mechanic told me this needed to be replaces and is asking a fairly hefty $$, After watching this I have an appreciation for the work involved.
Glad I could help.
Don’t forget to subscribe, maybe I could help you save some money on other repairs.
Thanks!
It's quite easy to do it yourself, a little scary to lower the engine with a floor jack but can't really go wrong
No torque spec on that insanely important one time use Alan bolt on the back of the tensioner?
VW: no
@@benhajdu4040 There is, I don’t give torque specs out on my page. I leave that to the viewers to do their own research. I just give the visual step by step. 👍
@RedsVolkswagenRepair naw I have the vw repair manual. Doesn't specificy a torque spec. Wasn't knocking you I'm knocking vw. Horrible design for a tensioner and so vw of them not too include a torque spec xD
@@benhajdu4040 Oh okay😂
Yeah, I don’t have access to VW’s repair manual anymore. I know Alldata a.k.a. “Somedata” is missing a lot of torque specifications for any given job.
It is a weird design for a tensioner though.
That is the same process to the mk6 gli??
Depends on if it is an earlier or later Mk6 GLI. If the engine cover looks the exact same then yes. If it is an all black engine cover then no. Hope this helps.
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair my is 2014 vw mk6 gli 3 generation
Well Done.
Thank you!
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
Can you replace alternator without having to remove tensioner?
Philip Ornelas Absolutely. Just remove the belt and the two screws holding the hard coolant lines above the alternator and it will squeeze through the top.
Don’t forget to subscribe!
I think my car is making this same noise, might have to take another look at it after watching this.
It is a fairly common issue, especially on higher mileage cars.
Perfect, thank you
No problem. Be sure to smash that subscribe button for me!!
This is a really well made video! Great lighting, great tips, and very insightful expert narration!
Thank you!
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
Great Video ‼️ What are the model numbers for those 2 long ratchets ?
FLLF80 & TLLF72. Hope this helps!
Don't forget to subscribe if you haven't already!
Thanks!
Does it work for Jetta 2009 2.0tsi Wolfsburg edition?
Yup, same thing.
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Is there a way i can send you a vid im having weird squealing noises on same car at idle and want your opinion if it can be this or something else ?
Mlutzemail@yahoo.com
Sent it
This helped me so much! Thank you for the tips and tricks.
You’re welcome, glad I could help!
Don’t forget to subscribe and hit the 🔔 if you haven’t already!
Thanks!
Hi! Very good video thanks for it! Could you please tell me what kind of 16 bit did you use for the tensioner release? And what kind of 3/8 ratchet was used?
Not sure exactly which portion of the video you are referring to where I use a “16 bit”, but I list all of the tools needed for the job at 0:55. Hope this helps!
Don’t forget to subscribe if you already haven’t, I try to put a video out every week.
Thanks!
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair Hi, I refer to 02:52 where you released the tensioner to get out the belt
@@kenezmorotz6490 Its a long 3/8 ratchet with a 17mm socket.
Does this work with a 2014 VW Jett GLI? Gen 3 2.0T. Tensioner gave out and caused premature wear on the alternator pulley so I have to replace both.
If I remember correctly, that serpentine belt tensioner is much easier. It is held on by two aluminum T45-50ish bolts on the belt side. Just take the belt off then the tensioner is right there. Not a whole lot of work. Make sure you get two new bolts and torque them down, they snap super easy because they aluminum.
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair thanks! I’ll look into it
Is this procedure similar to a 2013 volkswagen CC? I have to help my cousin replace this tomorrow. Im used to working on mercedes but i have yet to work on a volkswagen. Thanks
Yeah, same process. The only difference might be the clearance between the body of the car and tensioner when trying to pull it out. Thanks for subscribing!
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair Thank you very much for the reply. I have a question about the DSG transmission. Is there away to disable the "creep" when letting off the brake at a stop so that it feels more like the BMW DCT which doesn't creep? I like the feel of a true automated manual
@@ryanjade2836 I don’t think there is. If there were you would have to go in and change the coding and to do it through VAG COM which cause upwards of $300.
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair I just finished the job and your video was extremely helpful. We made a slight error however. When taking the engine mount bolts out, the one closest to the firewall stripped some of the threads in the hole towards the top. I think the mount was on too much of an angle when we took the bolt out. Anyways, it was a little difficult getting threading back in but we were able to get it started and into the good threads toward the bottom and torque it down. Is it okay to leave it like this? Everything is running great now.
@@ryanjade2836 If you were able to tighten them all the way down and torque them you should be good. If you ever have to take that bolt out again for whatever reason you might end up having to replace that bolt and the bracket that it threads down into, the one that bolts to the side of the block. Not a super hard correction.
Very helpful video. Sending thanks from the UK 👍
Thanks!
Don’t forget to subscribe!
About to try this with my grandpa ! Lol
Knock it out!
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
Easily one of the best videos I have seen for VW repair. Well done!
Thank you!
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already!
Have a good one!
Hi. I tried to disconnect the auxiliary water pump electrical connector for a while and it seems to be frozen in. Do you have any suggestions?
Hmm, not sure what kind of extra tools you might have access too but I would try using a mini 90 degree pick. From the opposite side of the tab where you would normally squeeze with your finger, stick the pick in there and get under the locking tab. Then maybe take some normal pliers that will open wide enough to get around the connector. Don’t squeeze too hard, just enough to get a good grip. Then wiggle back and forth while pulling the connector slightly in the direction of removal.
Hope this helps. Don’t forget to subscribe! Thanks!
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair Thanks for the fast reply. I managed to get it out. It seemed like all the debris made it difficult to pull the connector out.
@@GPTSkills Not a problem. Yeah, that is usually all it is.
What a stupid design for a tensioner.
I don’t think anybody disagrees with you.
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair is there are specific reason why it's made like that, that you know of?
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair great instructional video bro!! You got another sub from me. Keep up the good work.
@@blindabinda1234 Not sure. All I can say is that it was made by Germans and they over engineer everything. Sometimes making things better, sometimes making things worse.
@@blindabinda1234 Glad I could help out, Thanks a ton!
I just was you at Chick-fil-A
Must have been my wife in the Tiguan. I haven't been in months lol.
Always replace your engine mount bolts, then torque everything to spec!
Absolutely! I like to leave that up to the viewers discretion. These are just how to get the job done videos. I don’t want to be liable in any way for giving the wrong specifications.
ok boss
Hi Red, nice work! We have had oil from filter leaking on the alternator and belt and now no charge to battery. Would a clean up suffice or am I up for replacement. Thanks David
Thank you!
First off the belt will need to be replaced due to being rubber and oil saturated, it will swell up and come apart and get tangled up behind pulleys which never has a good outcome.
As far as the alternator, when oil makes it down inside it will most likely need replaced. If you have a known good battery and your system is not charging between 14.2-14.6 volts, that would be the first obvious culprit I would suspect.
Don’t forget to subscribe!
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair thanks for the reply I will be putting new belt on today after cleaning the oil off and out of everything I did find that there are associated fuses in a rack on edge of the fuse box unfortunately they are fine So on with the new belt and test. Cheers
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair BTW I have subscribed
@@davidstaples746 Thanks again!
You make it looks easy job, thanks bro.
Haha thanks man.
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already!
My bearing appears to be going. Can't I just replace the pulley?
Not sure if you can purchase it separately.
This single component consists of two parts, the pulley with bearing and the tensioner with internal spring. I’ve seen both go bad and they have different symptoms.
I’ve only ever know it to be replaced as one entire piece.
Hope this helps! Don’t forget to subscribe if you have not already done so!
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair Thanks for the reply. Upon further investigation I'm pretty sure it's actually the alternator pulley.
@@ML-vk8ev No problem.
Also very common. That's a clutch pulley. If you take the belt off of it and spin it by hand it should spin freely one direction separate from the alternator internals and lock up in the other. When they go bad they lock up in both directions and spin the alternator internals in both directions.
Could the alternator have Been removed and the engine mount with the same result or would that have been too much headache
Not necessary, that would just be extra work.
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair job completed with your video thanks . It was on audi a3 8pa 2.0 tfsi . Subscribed aswell
@@navzaffar20021978 Glad I could help! And thank you!
I did mine by taking out the alternator. I found the access created to see things helps me. I am not fond of laying on the garage floor under the car. Getting old. If I had a life - well then maybe this way. Alternator out is a 10-minute job for me.
What size is the allen key bolt
5mm 1:40
Gracias for help me from san Antonio texas amigo
Eres bienvenido!
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tldr:
water pump wiring harness blocks
water pump hoses blocks
ac compressor blocks
engine mount blocks
engine need to be lowered to get tensioner out
I don't understand what you are trying to say. But this is all you need to do to perform this job. The engine was lowered in this video, I talk about and show that.
would this be the same as a jetta boss??
mines make a squealing noise i think its the belt or tensior
If the engine looks identical to this one when looking from the top, then yes. The Jetta GLI has this engine.
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair ok thanks for the help
@@clee8005 No problem man. Don’t forget to subscribe!
Nice detailed video, thanks. But question for you how wise and safe it is to have the weight of the engine resting on that thin piece of sheet metal we call oil pan, especially if they are rusty like mine? Thanks agin
Kristijan Coric If your oil pan is rusty and not as thick as an oil pan in normal working order, I would recommend replacing it first and then performing this job. I’ve never seen an oil pan on this engine collapse from the weight of the engine. I’ve seen technicians roll the engine out balancing on the jack and lifting the car up with no issues. This is a fairly small and light engine overall. Plus, in this situation you are only applying a percentage of the weight of the engine on the oil pan because it is supported in two other areas: the lower transmission mount and the drivers side transmission mount. Hope this helps. Thanks for the question and don’t forget to subscribe with notifications. More videos coming soon!
i did it for 1 week, everything ok
Thanks 🙏, one of the very best explanation all experiences and easy to follow training videos. A wonderful accomplishment with the least parts removed and replaced. I believe you can make a great teacher for the training or vocational training of your students to become future tech. Begin small and test yourself to greatness. Remember a good teacher is valued for the future.
Thank you very much for the kind words!
More videos coming soon, currently editing. Don’t forget to subscribe!
Couldn't just bolt it on like a normal engine. German cars are always extra.
It is what it is.
This type of over engineering is why they lost the war.
It’s actually one of the reasons it kept them in the war and a dominant power for so long.
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair I'm just salty with them for this type of crap lol
No need to replace the whole tensioner, replacing just the pulley would have fixed that and is 15 min job 😊
The pulley wasn’t the problem. The spring built into the tensioner became weak and created belt slap. If the bearing in the pulley was loose or roaring, of course.
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair yes it was the pulley not the spring
@@Ape76 Dude, no it wasn’t lol. I have worked on and diagnosed cars every work day professionally at the dealership level for the last 15 years. I know when a pulley is bad and when a tensioner is bad. Get out of here.
This is not a DIY type job.👎
Anything can be a DIY job, it’s up to yourself to believe you are capable.