Power Saw Blade Sharpening
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- Опубликовано: 10 июн 2017
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Thanks for this video. Just received one of these sharpeners. After the typical modifications to get the proper arbor size, tighten the shaft where the stop pin is anchored to, I got it to where I could sharpen my first blade. works really well. My next move is to take my angle grinder and grind a bit off the guard and motor housing where the 4th or 5th tooth hit, left of the grinding wheel . My warranty will be void, but my life will be better for it. I know you know what I am saying. Your video helped me a lot to get this grinder tuned and tweaked!
Andy Evenson Thank you Andy for watching, yes i find with many if not all machine tools we need to tweak them to fit with use and how we want to use them, anyway its good news your now up and running and all your power saws will feel much better for it
Just got one these & have not used one before. Thanks David for a very good as it is demo.
Thanks David. After five years people like me are still watching and finding this vid useful especially as the machine comes with zero instructions. One thing I clocked is at 19:57 your gulley pin mechanism is binding on and bending the grinding wheel! Simple oversight but thank you
Thanks for the great video. Love how clean and organised your workshop is!
Thanks Tiny
Dave, you're the man. Very informative without the annoying "what's up". Thank you.
Glad to help thanks for watching
Interesting video. I wish I need one of those sharpeners but I’ve only got a couple of circular saws.
I like your drop in bench tool system, it makes a lot of sense for tools that you don’t use constantly but need to be firmly fixed down.
Thanks for watching yes I am adding other tools to this system as the shop is getting smaller with every new tool
Hi David, How do you sharp top tooth this last saw blade (Axcaliber) with trapezoidal teeth?
i wish my workshop was as neat and tidy like yours . I like the bottles. Thank you you made me realize my worksop is a pig stie.
Great job - Appreciate the insight!
Fantastic video, the machine comes with a very meager instruction manual but does not give nearly enough information. Dave gives a very good in-depth example of how to use it properly and consistently. Awesome job Dave.
Thanks David that's very kind of you and thanks for watching
David, do you have a link for this sharpener.?
Thanks so much for this video. Top man!
Thanks for the great video on how to setup and use the sharpener.
Just bought one of these and have found your videos very informative. I love your interchangeable work area for the vice and saw sharpener, great idea. SUBSCRIBED 👍🏻
Thank you for the great comment and for Subscribing i hope you find lots more of my video you like i have well over 300 now online.
Is it a good machine? I want to uy one, tires of paying 15 to 20 for sharpening my blades
Thanks for the video, very interesting
Excellent explanation !! nice presentation THx
reem von braun Thank you im glad you found it of intrest
Thanks David, very informative-
I have a small Sealey sharpener. It's ok.
I've been for quite a while, angle sharpening the main flat piece - WRONG and not the top as you demonstrated-
That's a big boob on my part - thank you for this Mate 👍🐒
Its all a learning curve Gary and now you know and can pass it on to others that's the one good thing about youtube, theirs so much we can all learn and its free
David Gladden - agreed David, and for me ~ much quicker to touch up now.
Tx again 👍
Maybe yes & maybe no!
When your sharpening cross cut saws as shown here the flat face is sharpened at flat angle 90degrees on each tooth & yes when you have to sharpen the top faces due to chip etc THEN for set you tilt the motor & diamond wheel to the 8 degrees shown here.
However,
When your sharpening a rip saw rather than a cross cut saw, the faces aren’t flat 90 degrees, they have an alternate bevel on them of often 5 degrees, so 85 & 95 degrees on alternate teeth as well as the “set” angle on the tops of the 8 degrees shown here.
So “compound” angles for the face meets top.
So when you say you we’re doing the flat faces “wrong” we’re you sharpening a cross cut saw blade or a ripping saw blade?
Next - as well as marking with permanent marker the tooth you started on, IF you also mark the flat face as well, when you start sharpening that first tooth you can check you have your motor / blade tilt exactly at 90 (or for ripping blades at 85 / 95 degrees by whether all the permanent marker is removed across the entirety of the flat face or whether your a fraction of a degree “out” because it’s removing all the ink on one edge of the flat tooth but leaving a little ink trace on the other (leading or trailing) edge.
Now normally on good blades at least, the data on blade diameter, teeth number, arbor size & degree of set hook etc is engraved on the side of the blade or the cardboard packet the blade comes in - to allow you to set up your machine to the original factory specs first go.
What I have done is replace the washer that holds the aluminium diamond coated sharpening wheel to the engine drive shaft with a 3 inch flat steel washer!
I then use a “wixey” brand digital inclinometer / angle finder, (about $45 on evil bay) and with Machine unplugged attach its magnetic face to the washer, which allows you to set the tilt to 1/10th of a degree increments, to get it exact!
Just zero the gauge off the flat face of the saw blade when clamped onto the cast iron cross feed slide, then attach it to the diamond wheel bye it’s magnetic face & adjust the tilt to exactly what you want!
You can then match factory specs first time / tooth every time, and have repeatable accuracy just like the saw doctor does with his fancy automated CNC blade sharpener!
The ink test allows you to confirm visually on the first tooth that you got it exactly right!
Just a couple handy tips for the newbys! 👍
@@ianmoone2359 another thing to add, is safety, a respirator is a must as carbide dust isn't good for you
If you could make a collet block that fits in the dovetail on that round thing where you mount the saw blades you could sharpen drill bits with this. With the bit pointing down the length of the arm, the angle of the arm dictates the drill point angle and the angle of the cutting disc is the facet angle.
Meme Master yes such a machine van be adapted for a number of other tasks, i do however have a dedicated drill sharpening jig which does me fine but its a good thing to get the most you can out of every tool, thanks for the interesting feedback
Nice to see a Brit doing a video looking to get one shortly many thanks
an outstanding video David. I need to buy one of those sharpening machines as I have two tct cold cut metal chop saws and they charge me £15 each blade to sharpen and its very inconvenient.
yes Peter as you see i have the same needs and yes this well worth it
Thanks for the video. It's very informative, and it sealed my decision to buy one (which should repay itself after sharpening about 16 blades AFAIK - sharpening a 12"/80t blade costs about CAD$20-25 here and this sharpener could be delivered for about CAD$400 including taxes and shipping - and I'm shopping for a better price yet). I was looking for a bargain on a foley-belsaw but it sems these are made of a mix of expensivium and unobtainium, and the makita 9803 seems to be made of cantfinditium... Do you think the ones with water cooling are worth the premium?
Hi, this link should work out much less than $400 and its free shipping, hope this helps www.ebay.co.uk/itm/circular-Saw-Blade-Grinder-sharpener-Machine-Woodworking-Mill-Grind-Slideable/252652566824?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Cheers for this video. I note they come with a water tray now too, so I will go for that type. £155 but pretty much looks the same.
Gonna watch your topping vid now.
Hi Brian thanks, yes I believe the water one is a upper model not available when I got mine but a word of caution without looking at it, water grinding normally requires different discs if so be sure your given the correct one, beyond that good luck
@@dmgladden Aha, very good point. More research on my part, cheers. I also need new blades for my planer/thicknesser, This machine wont sharpen those!!
@@dmgladden [update] All good. the one I am looking at has a diamond wheel, if taken gently (light touch), I could use it dry too.
I also remember watching your van re-fit some time ago too, nice job, the rough weather canopy was a nice touch.
Love your workbench attachment setup!
Thanks James it's the kind of thinking needed when you have limited space as many home workshop have
@@dmgladden Yes sir! I think I’m going to use your great idea to help me save precious bench top space as well!
hello, thanks for the video
I have a similar device and was wondering if all teeth are always sharpened at 0 degrees. So say the long part of the tooth, not the tips. If the long part also has to be sharpened at a certain angle, can you tell that from the data on the saw blade?
gr. Arie
Brilliant video! Thank you very muchly 🙂. Helped me so much with the set up of my new toy. Now my only problems are how to properly set the stop that prevents too much being ground off and also sets the teeth thee same distance apart, and how to get the opposite 8° topping bevel. Anyone know how please?
David - have you had any success in identifying a replacement grinding wheel for this unit?
I just googled tge details on the lable and i got it from eday i think about £15 give it a try
Nice shop...at first I thought ur bandsaw was your table saw bc I only saw the front of it. I wondered why a guy who made such a nice chop saw bench would have a tiny table saw rolling around on casters. Then I saw the monster in that centered table lol
Many thanks for that. My next purchase.
That's good as you can tell I love it and what a money saver
Fantastic presentation, the first of it's kind I've seen. However I have been led to believe the sides are to be sharpened too. Could you kindly eloberate on that?
Francis Gonsalves no if you sharpen the side you change the size of the blade just clean the side you may some times need to top them but never the sides
very nice video. Thank you
p ch thank you for watching
Great video on sharpening the saw blades, but where can I purchase one of them machines , it looks solid and well made. Thanks
EBay/ China link on other video
As I have asked before,, where would you acquire a new diamond wheel. I've checked everywhere and can't find a vendor or source to purchase a new wheel. I hope you answer your comments frequently
Already answered, good luck
Hi David, thanks for the video, really useful. I have just bought the same machine , no decent instructions so your video was key! My machine was also a bit gritty, stiffish....how did you polish yours?
Peter Jennings hi Peter thanks for the comment, i just used wire wood and emary paper, some white spirit got rid of any old gunge and a good oil and thats all it took
Part 5 of IV safe affairs, of my instructions said "the machine doesn't until it works usually" 😄
there must be a place that have those "centering arbor" adapters.. does anybody knows?
looking for 5/8 and 1"
I just bought one of these machines, and was indeed surprised to find the 5/8" arbor wasn't included. Such a common size for saw blades but not included. I made one myself on my lathe. Otherwise I don't know where you might find any part that would provide a 5/8" arbor to go onto a 8mm thread.
jean hache where can these sharpeners be bought
Hello! Great video, compliments! Do you think it is capable of sharpening blades with a diameter of 600mm and alternating teeth? Where can I buy it?
I don't know about the 600mm mine are 300 but there is lots of room left, if you see the last blade I do that's a 300 and see it looks smallmon the bed so maybe but yes alternating teeth I do do one to show how, as for where to buy that's easy China through eBay but many sellers have them, deals change all the time so as for price I couldn't say now you just find the best deal today but check it's a good seller
I recently purchased the same sharpener as you have and my question is, do you have a source/vendor where you can acquire a replacement wheel? Wheel diameter is 4.92”/125 mm, arbor size is 1.26”/ 32mm. I would appreciate any information you could provide. Thank you.
Hi Gary i found it your last request sorry i did miss it i guess sometimes i get too many or get lost going through them all, anyway hope the reply on the other video as helped
Thanks David, can you tell me the type of sharpening wheel you would need. ( Is it a diamond type or can I use an aluminum oxide.)
Hi Ned and thanks, its a Aluminium Oxide disc
@@dmgladden David, thanks for the video.
My grinding wheel looks the same as yours, but is diamond, which is better for TC tipped blades.
www.forestwest.com.au/workshop-power-tools/370w-circular-saw-blade-sharpener
Hi. Respect for the video.Same as Neil, your disk is actually a diamond resin bonded disk. Specs from the manufacturer:"Bonding Agent : S2 Diamond Concentration : 75%
Outside Diameter: 150mm
Mounting Hole Diameter: 32mm
Diamond Coated Width: 8mm
Grit :150"For cheaper disks diamond concentration is almost certainly much lower even with some reputable source concentration is as low as 20%, sometimes mixed up with other abrasives and even worse the bonding agent is "filled" with whatever they get cheapest. (that's why I'll add an reply to the water cooled comment) And it is hard to guesstimate it at home. The rule is that it gets close to what you pay for.
brill vid,,,where can i buy this sharpening tool,,,,,thanks
Jeremy Rayner i got mine from china through ebay but look at the sponsors links the first looks ok maybe if they send me one to test i could better advise
Why does it come with a coarse diamond blade grit of 150? Is it too coarse? I read that carbide is best ground to 600 grit.
no idea "China" lol
Thanks for vid,all though I think you have the index pin on the wrong side,I think you will find it should be to the right of the machine,which would make it much easier to locate & secure.Regards Gwyn
Do you sharpen the face of the tooth at an angle too or just every other tooth tip?
cross cut blade- face of teeth square and top of teeth angled, rip cut blade- face of teeth alternating angles and top of teeth square, hope this helps
Nececito saber cómo comprar el disco afilador para esos dientes de sierra y la máquina
Did the machine come with the proper wheel for grinding carbide?
It came with the one disc which does a fare good job
Hi David thanks for the very informative vid, (liked & subbed) just ordered one of these and I doubt the instructions that will come with it will help! How is the wear on the grinding disc? Do you know where replacements can be had? All the best Terry.
Hi Terry, thank you for the Sub, the disc seems to last a good time i am on my second but i broke the first by spinning the table to much, i got my new one from Ireland through ebay but do a search when you get yours and keep a new one in
@@dmgladden Thanks David will do, got to work out how I'm going to fit it in the back of my Sharpening van yet, but will give me a project to do during this damn lockdown!
@@cashman156 yes i know what you mean i did about 40 videos in the first lock down
@@dmgladden Keep up the good work here and stay safe mate.
Great video and explaning how to and why, i bought exactly the same saw blade sharpener as you have, coming next week, has a special googles thats as your lupp to could see exaktly the angle an to sharpen the right way, could easly be aplaid with a water tank that could drip down on the surface the abrasiv works, sems useless for so short assembleys that you did to get a tooth sharp, , i say it again good video thanks 5 thums upp
One more thing: I have some blades where the face of the carbide tip alternates angles (not the top of the tip, but the face of the tip). I can't find any videos that address that, do you know anything about that? Thanks!
I haven't got any such blades but i would imagine you would have to do it in two stages changing the angle for the second stage, i might be wrong but that's how i would aproach it
@@dmgladden Thanks David. I think I must have gotten it wrong and it's in fact the tip of the tooth, because I can't find any references online to this. I have to double check tomorrow in the workshop. Thanks for replying! Keep up the good work.
@@tinycuisine6544 yes it does sound a little strange but i wasn't going to disagree with you after all no one knows every thing
what is the name of this machine and can you get replacement blades for it?
It's a Chinese one you will find it on ebay but as for discs it's a search but I have got them in the past
tengo una maquina igual , y funciona muy bien, a excepción de los grados Gº de inclinación del motor , algunas sierras circulares tienen dientes en punta flecha que llevan filo de las dos caras a 30º de inclinacion. y la maquina inclina bien para un lado ,pero para el lado del motor no llega porque toca en la base, y ahí el problema. pero igual es económica y trabaja bien.
donde lo compraste ? tienes la informacion , la verdad me interesa !!
Awesome. Where did you order the sharpener from?
China ebay there's lots on there
I need to get one many thanks
Thanks for being SO meticulous, quality MATTERS, Were You a machinist or shop teacher?
Hi Raymond, thank you no I was a Army teacher in communications known as an RSI
Thanks for the review, I have purchased one of these, had it for six months and now it's time to set it up.
I would like to point out a small thing that is not covered in the video, for other users.
The DUST from grinding tungsten is SERIOUSLY DEADLY and should be avoided at all costs.
By this I mean you should wear a mask and have a vacuum cleaner set to suck up the dust.
But very informative video, lets share the knowledge.
Thanks for the info which i was fully unaware of so i did a bit of research and this was the best result i got:
The electrodes themselves present little threat of harmful radiation exposure to personnel. It's the fine airborne dust particulate, released by grinding and tip prep, which pose a threat of radioactive particles entering the body. So if your shop equipment is not properly ventilated it may be out of compliance, putting you at just about as much risk as your smucky coworker who puts the things in his mouth.
Personally i have just 3 years ago stopped smoking, i guess ironical
Yes ,I actually meant inhaling the fine tungsten dust.
As the ingredients of tungsten carbide include Cadmium, Chromium, Cobalt and Nickel, these are all metals used in tungsten carbide brazing and grinding, not a problem in big pieces, very bad as fine particles..
And thanks for the clip on how to set it up!
@@dmgladden That information is for Thoriated Tungsten welding electrodes. Grinding dust from grinding any Tungsten Carbide, router bits , lathe/milling bits or saw blades is seriously bad for your health.
хорошо перед заточкой замочить в растворе обыкновенной соды,чтобы смола на зубьях размякла,тогда меньше засаливается круг.
An excellent tip. Is that baking soda that you use?
Du you have a link, where to buy it ? 😊
no sorry just ebay
Hi I have the same machine
like you had to clean and debur.
The only problem I have is with the
blade tightening as I turn to sharpen. Are you having the same
problem?
yes as you will notice in my video i am constantly tightening the blade but i don't mind as i can guess what would be needed to avoid it as the blade would be pressing down too hard to the base which would first stop it turning and if it did tune the teeth would be catching on the cast iron' if you shim it to give space but that would create other problems
David Gladden
Still a great bit of kit David
yes I'm well pleased with it and already I've saved plenty of money
Hi David. You might want to pass on the blade tightening problem can be solved by using a spring between the blade hold down cup and the knob. This will require adding a longer bolt. Worked great for me. Also the lack of a 5/8 blade round washer can be solved by taking the 3/4 in. one and running a bolt in it and chucking it in a drill press and using a stone or wheel off a bench grinder and turning the 3/4 in. round nut down to 5/8. That is how I solved the problem. I have never come across a 3/4 in arbor so had no use for that round nut. Also the slider the blade runs back and forth on had 5 thousands slop in it so I used 4 thousands brass shim and super glue it to the the slider and it works great now. Great videos.
Cảm ơn, một phương pháp tuyệt vời
Thank you
I watched both of your videos, both loaded with good information, thanks. I am considering buying one of these. I note that on Ebay there is a version with a water collecting base and a water feed as a coolant/lubricant when sharpening, this is an additional £20 Given a choice, and your experience using this sharpener, would you think there is benefit in using coolant?
My self i would not i can't see the need and would give extra work to oil everything after and the little amount of grinding you do on each tooth they should not get that hot.
But do get one they are so very useful
@@dmgladden Excellent. I didn't really want the faff of coolant, but having been a mechanical engineer, I understand that sometimes there is a need for lubrication and cooling. I was on the fence, but it is nice to know that things don't get that hot. Cheers David, thanks.
Well yes i guess if its there its not in the way, at least if you do need it at some point, the option wasnt available when i got mine
There are certain positive benefits to edge formation as brittleness caused by thermal expansion is lowered, longer abrasive life and so on, and so on - we can discuss them for days, BUT the main benefit in my eyes is that you scrub most of the dust particulate out of the air you breathe. Do not forget that bonding agent in tungsten carbide is cadmium and we absolutely do not know what is used as fillers in the bonding of the disks.
@@dmgladden I have been on the fence for a quite a while, I am now buying within the week. I have limited storage space, so have held off for a while.
What a price
Thanks for this video
Your welcome
hello, Thank you very much for your tips.
I've just bought a machine similar to yours and I'm sure i would have ruined a couple of blades before getting the hang of it and it is really simple and fast with good result once you know what you're doing. Thank you
Your very welcome I'm glad I could help.
Nice vise what brand if you know 👍👍👍❤️
It's a Axminster Power tool branded vice in think they still do it
Perfect thank you so much for finally understanding how it works. The only sad thing is that it was advertising all the time, it was disturbing
Thanks but remember thats the only price you pay and without advertisements no one would make videos
Good video where l can purchase these machine.
EBay/ China link on other video
Hi Dave
Mine has arrived so I am just watching your video again as the instructions don't instruct you in anything at all. Firstly it appears that you are not using the stop pin and I was wondering why, and secondly I am reluctant to use the sharpener on blades covered in heavy resin. My cleaning method is simple, leave them overnight in vinegar (Tesco's cheap distilled vinegar not the wife's expensive gourmet vinegar) but what happens if you are in a hurry? Will it clog up the diamond blade with resin? Thirdly it appears that your blade has a slight nick in it, does it affect the performance and how did the nick happen? Mine arrived with the blade so badly broken that I had to get them to send another, it broke because the packing in the box was terrible.
Many thanks.
Wrong again, I can see you are using the stop pin.
WhiteVanMan a
WhiteVanMan hi sorry missed this comment, first yes I did use the stop pin at first but now I'm use to it I don't want more, as for cleaning I have a video on that but it won't bother the
Disc I never clean first and many time I don't clean at all it depends on what saw the blade is for, finally my blade did have a small chip but then it broke completely so was replaced now all is good, hope your enjoying the machine
WhiteVanMan i do a hard copy dvd for just £15.99 if it would help
Wwrttty,hiteVanMan ,que
My saw blades are 315mm diameter the same as you showWhen I set the rake angle the blade fouls on the motor case. Maybe my blade has an excessive rake angle. It’s 32 teeth. It was the one supplied with the saw by Sedgwick.
Also my blades need the motor tilted to sharpen the tooth.
You must have something set wrong or the machines set up wrong as you should have no trouble with that size of blade but without seeing you do it I can't work out what is really going on sorry
Thanks for the reply. You seemed to have had the same problem at 17.20 ish. The cutter only projects a little bit more than the motor diameter and it’s support piece. This doesn’t matter on smaller blades. I am loath to take the file and hacksaw to it to improve clearance. I can’t find a 130mm dia disc but I have ordered a 125mm dished cutter. It might work. Meanwhile I sharpened with a lesser angle. I find Chinese machinery always has one major design consideration to overcome.
@@jimbo2629 yes it looks that way but it did fit just the camera angle however I understand what you are saying now but I must say I don't have that problem with any of my blades and they have all been through this machine now, so I haven't had tho think of a way around this problem but I agree that's one of the drawbacks of Chinese tools.
Good luck and let me know how you overcome it once you have. David
I’ve overcome it by flipping over the cutter disc and the Saw blade. Accommodating the rake is now obtained by angling away from the motor. Problem solved. Another niggle is the play in the dovetail slide which can produce chatter when the tooth touches the cutter. Again it’s worse with larger blades. I plan to shim it to take up the slop. I don’t understand why manufacturers don’t get the size correct. I have come across the same with mitre fence slots on saws.
@@jimbo2629 hi Jim, that sounds like an interesting solution when I next get the machine out I will play with that idea, as for the play I think that is a result of too many companies making the different parts I guess that is why most miter fences have built in shimming systems, but I find that's one of the pleasures of owning tools making them your own, like when we one put a jubilee clip on a Yanky Screwdriver to stop it rolling away it's good to make tools fit us better than they did when new
you this product is availabel in saudi arabia if availabel send me location
Asad Ahmed sorry no idea I'm in UK but if you have ebay do a search that would be your best bet, thanks for watching
David Gladden my dear but need one machine please you help me and send one my phone number 00966504458247
Price. Masheen
One problem I found with this type of machine is, that doing small blades, their teeth are touching the table in the back, while in the front , where the grinding happens, they overhang the table. This results in the blade being slightly tilted and the teeth scubbing over the table during turning the blade to the next tooth. I fixed the problem for at least the midium sized blades by drilling an tapping another screw hole in the sliding bar, coser to the center of the table. But for the very small blades, this hole would be right in the center, where it cannot be, because of the locking pin and the groove cut inte underside of the slider.
Why not just use a packers between the blade and the table to give clearance just enough to cover to set on the teeth
I have a thirty year old workshop here in Spain that's loaded with tools, many of them electrical, none with earth pins.
No problem.
I also have a box full of 13 A plugs, sockets and extensions that anyone is welcome to have.
As for the sharpening tool, it's a waste of space.
Earthling good to see luck is on your side for now, just be sure to stick to the double insulated tools or battery ones any you will stay lucky thanks for your views
see many more great videos like this one click this link,
ruclips.net/p/PLRmtgUa0CprWFqytb6g1cs6U6CZtKg_67 then click LOOP and you wont miss any
if in return you want to buy me a drink or help support my channel click
www.paypal.com/paypalme/Davidglad
No comprendo pefiero en castellano estoy interesado en maquinas de afilado. Soldadura de cinta
one thing you were doing wrong during sharpening is I noticed when you put the tooth against the sharpening wheel you were sliding it forward and back which I understand to evenly wear the wheel but when you were done sharpening you were just sliding the blade back and off the wheel while the blade was still in contact with the sharpening wheel. this could cause the tip of the saw blade to pass over the edge of the sharpening wheel. when done sharpening you should back the blade away from the wheel before moving the blade back.
when finishing a tooth, pulling blade away, I think it is not clever to push it towards the wheel, if the tooth moves even slightly to left across the wheel border, you just round it's edge.
clemopcl thanks for the comment but i should mention i hsve done about 30 blades my way so far and they are always very sharp and very clean cutting, but thats just my way your free to do it your way
I meant it primarily for other viewers ;) When someone never did this before and simply copies what he sees here, then he may blunt the teeth even more. BTW I do this in furniture factory. Blades on some big industrial machines (mainly our Holzher 6210 - CUT85) need to be changed more than once a week when there is lot of work. According to records I sharpened 109 times (April-July). Sometimes perfectly hand-sharpened is not enough (esp. with veneer-coated chipboard) and we have them sharpened externally on NC sharpening machines. They also have proper cooling (this technique really overheats the edge, changes the metal structure and makes the sharpness last shorter, not a big problem for hand-tools however), I only have cooling by liquid made by me, using infusion hose with dripping chamber.
ok understood
Ong ay co ban khong nhi
Where do you purchase on of these.
ebay
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/circular-Saw-Blade-Grinder-sharpener-Machine-Woodworking-Mill-Grind-Slideable/252652566824?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Thank You
كام حق المكين هادي
Only 150 quid now. I want one. Dunno what for but I want one.
Nooice!
Thank you again Garviel
Still looks as if the blade is moving when you’re presenting it to wheel
You seem to be turning the blade up to the indexing stop while blade is in forward sliding position.
I would have thought you should index blade to pin first and then slide forward and back.This way you start cutting with the tip of the wheel first and not just bumping the whole of the face onto the wheel in one go.
I think it's just the camera view, but it seems you are knowledgeable to understand what I am showing
Can you send in oman
I have some blades with 3 faces on one tip
Thanks for attempting to answer but you apparently got confused and thought you answered but didn't. Could you check the first comment and try again. Sorry for being such a pest but I need some help.
Good call on cutting off the plug and hard wire to local code plug, it ain't going anywhere.
If you blade, make shavings after you sharpen it than you know the teeth are sharp.
Orang barat banyak bicara
eerst oefenen dan filmen
nee heb het probeerd, is niet om aan te zien
Willy Mans what's that mean lol
عوز مكين
no stop guide? Not impressed at all
georgeEPC there is one fitted but I find I don't need it the Travis stop is adequate to stop you hitting the gullet when doing the face or over grinding when topping as for over grinding when doing the face I find with practice you don't need help
Banyak ngomong
Mate, clean the blade before you sharpen it !
WASTE OF MONEY, I USE A TILE SAW, WORKS AWESOME. USE PAIR OF DOOR SLIDER AND THE ANGLE IS ON THE SAW ITSELF UNDER 50 BUCKS A PLUS IN MY EYES
what ever well done it sounds good,
Make a video that we could see.
The tile saw blades sharpen blades that are going to be used on wood sort of fine. However; you need a smooth edge if you are going to sharpen a blade that will be used on metal. They just don't make tile saw blades at a fine enough grain.
Great job on this video.
Why is this sharpener not up too snuff? why the tile saw something better. Please show us how it works. Don
To long to watch!
Sorry it's meant for those with a longer span of concentration
Less talk more action mate ..
Boring talking useless
Meant for those with the capacity to understand and learn from what im telling, if thats not you then yes you will find it boring, sorry i can't cater for every one