@@iainohalloran42 And you probably have a lot more common sense and a better sharpener not made in a country killing us all with their filth. If anyone ever brings ANYTHING made in China to my house out is coming the 12 gauge ahead of the 22's my children will have fun finishing up with. Yupp. 🇺🇸 🗽 Now quick, some bleeding heart troller go report me.
Blade didn’t need sharpening bud. You should do a video on cleaning your blades. You can do that a couple times before you need to sharpen it. Go to an auto parts shop and pick up a gallon of Super Clean. Set your blades in it for maybe 5 minutes and you will be amazed. It will strip off all the labeling but who cares. Suggest a good wash off afterwards and then protect them from moisture with whatever you like to use on blades that get wet. Wax, dry silicone, or just the water displacement 40 we all have a can of. Also. Your blades would have cut faster and stayed sharp longer with a slight angle to the sharpening. Check out a new blade the next time you buy one. If you get real bored during quarantine see what some 1,000-3000 grit paper does to improve them by polishing the sides as well. Packs are about $5.00 from Lowe’s/Home Depot and last a while.
@@stlalways6715 💘 It. Another Real Fucking American 🇺🇸 🗽 Who actually knows how to work and make shit last, after buying the right shit the first time. There's Indeed a future for Us 🇺🇸 yet. And I ain't sellin ya hopeless faith. Just git a Real J-O-B. 🍺👍😎
Retired journeyman carpenter here. Years ago, on a job site, the sharpening service was unable to come due to truck problems. We had a tech who decided to sharpen the blade himself, sharpening each tooth carefully. The blade didn't cut afterwards. So one of the carpenter's tried it, same result. I asked them to give me 15 minutes with the blade. It cut perfectly when I was done. The focus is NOT on each tooth, it is on the PERFECT centricity of the blade. Your individual teeth can be as sharp as can be, but if your blade is not circular, you'll be cutting with only one tooth; the highest one.
only partly correct - your problem only becomes an issue with very high rpm and slow rate of feed. in normal use if you visualise the cutting in microsecond timeframe - this is what happens - the high tooth cuts and the blade is moves forward with the following lower teeth meeting fresh uncut material. what WILL happen if the blade is not circular is vibration and chatter showing in the cut
This was mentioned yesterday. "The lock dog should be adjusted to enter the tooth root at more of an angle...not straight in. Move the post away from the sharpener", and at a tight angle to the blade tooth. When it clicks in the blade, it should not be able to move back wards at all. Used this clicker as a jam tool to aim, and lock your blade for every tooth. Yes, it was also too close to the sharpener and that was moving it over every time you moved the sharpener forward. I also agree every other cutting tooth should be at a opposite angle, to remove your cut out of the way.
Working in a professional cabinet shop, I was tasked with getting our blades sharpened on a regular basis. We had a man that was a professional blade sharpener/repairer. He not only did our saw blades, but he also did our drill bits and router bits, and any other cutting tool we had. This saved the company tens of thousands of dollars a year. As new blades and bits were quite expensive, having our old ones sharpened was the smart thing to do. As I had a home shop also, our company allowed me to include my own blades with theirs to be sharpened. This is because I provided a service to my bosses and the CEO with my own skills building things they needed. There was a mutual respect between us that you rarely see in business.
It is almost impossible to find any tool sharpening service here in Southern NJ. I was looking for a local service yo sharpen my end mill that I use in mu milling machine and there's nothing anywhere around. Same with saw sharpening. Nobody has carried on these businesses and they're long gone.
@@hootinouts my friend there are plenty of mail in sharpening services. just google them. you might need to send 3 or 4 blades to make it worth the shipping however.
I own a professional sharpening center and witnessed many accidents when people run dull blades. If your location doesn't offer a sharpening service this machine will help . Thanks for sharing 👍
Worked at a large slaughterhouse back in the 1970's. They had a sharpener for some of the long straight blades. All round blades were sent out every week. Think be cause we sent out over 150 blades a month only charged around $5" a blade to resharpen. Nice vid. I'm a retired sparky and only use my circular saw a few times a year but always purchase car nice tipped circular saw blades. Saw sharpener company told me that the extra cheap blades that come with a new circular saw are throw away and should not be reshatoened.
Yes definite learning curve. I've had the same one for 3 or 4 years. All the adjusters on this unit are really too imprecise. Here's the trick. Set the bade with the black handle pulled all the way in towards you -- don't touch it again. Wear leather gloves! Now what you do is free hand all the carbide sharpening. I set the blade around 10 degrees bevel and sharpen every other tooth, once complete I reset the bevel for the blade around 10 degrees opposite pitch. I practiced on a few and within an hour I was whizzing through em. Has saved me probably a $1000 or more in new purchases and sending them out for re-sharpening.
I did same thing 10 years ago, had an odd 9" miter saw I couldn't find blades for. Only problem was I only had one blade, you can only sharpen it so many times. Lol
I just got this and not used it yet, I do think that could be better to free hand the blade onto the cutting wheel rather than use the blade tooth lock
I was a machinist with TRW Wendt-Sonis 16 years. When starting a sharpening set up, one would use a black marker to color area to be ground. Coming in slowly to the darkened area with the grinding wheel, you could tell when the ground area was at "clean up", as the color was erased and the carbide was shined, ready to be ground to tolerance
I like mine . Works real good. Take your time , figure it out , sharpens blades very well. I've even bought blades at junk stores garage sales and such. And brought them back to life.
Just by cleaning the gunk off the blade improves the cut a LOT, I was actually amazed how much improves, I do it just with a simple file, not sure if you can recover a blade but you definitely improve the cut by doing some maintenance to it.
I sharpen professionally and find simple green the go to cleaner, a pair of cut resistant gloves and a magnet to handle the blade if needed. If the blades are scrubbed they need some type of rust proofing and use dry spray lubricant after.
@@markthompson1330 that's a good topic: what do you recommend for 'rustproofing'? I've heard wax, but it doesn't last or even do it well enough; oils of vaious kinds, but not generally suitable for this application; paint isn't right for a sawblade; always looking out for a better idea.
@@atlantajunglepythons1744 I only use DuPont Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant, any wax will burn when using the blade and make a mess to clean off, so far the dry film lube from DuPont works. I use it on many types of blades I sharpen since it stops rust and provides protection if the tool or blade is stored or shipped.
Hey , I am a retired Woodworker with over 25 years professional years behind me and over35 years of Woodworking as a hobby it sounds like you are grinding way more than you need to on Carbide tipped saw blades I like the machine set up you are using but maybe your wheel is too coarse or the blade needs to be readjusted usually I just basically dress the cutting face up as compared to grinding a brand new surface I actually have some Blades that are as old as the 1950s and were my Fathers those are just HSS not the preferred Carbide tipped I’ve even used 800grit wet/dry sandpaper glued to a flat surface to make just a few passes onthe Carbide and that will give me many more good cuts on the blade
Yep I agree. With 46 years of woodworking experience I have learned a lot about tooling. With carbide teeth you want to use the finest grit possible.....assuming that the carbide isn't chipped badly. And set grinder to only "kiss" the face surface of the tooth. Also the indexer should be adjusted to go into the gullet at the base of the tooth in lieu of the place it was catching. You can't possibly secure the blade to repeat repositioning precisely enough without a lot of slop.
I have one. Took the cover off and use it as a mini bench grinder for small shit like chisels etc. I use it at least every other day for one thing or another thats other than its intended use. I'm surprised it's become so handy.
I have this sharpener. The stop arm is inconsistent so I just set the blade in place and rotated the tooth by hand against the sharpening blade. It's quicker and I just hold each one for a few seconds. Does just fine without the frustration.
I was just coming down here to the comments to help him. I can see that others have done the same… but I want to add to it, and hopefully it will help clarify things for those who are newer to the industry, or just newer to this specific style of blade, sharpening machine. You have to adjust this machine so that the stopper flips flat against the next carbide tooth! This type of sawblade has half of the carbide teeth that “normal” 40-60 tooth plywood blades would have so that it hits the gullet, where other blades would have another carbide tooth for the a ATDPAD to stop against. Also, you need to tighten the ATDPAD so that it doesn’t flex at all! It’s called a “Adjacent Tooth Dependent Precise Advancing Detent” for good reason. 😉👍🏼
It's a great concept. I've designed and built my own sharpening tools for my shop, and am constantly asked to build more for friends, relatives, and coworkers. I've designed and built more tooling, workholding, locating, locking, fixturing, stuff that needs to be precise, accurate, repeatable - and due to 20% of my crew everywhere I've worked - and idiot resistant (because just as there is nothing completely bullet "proof" there is nothing completely idiot "proof" ... some idiots are just amazing). Blade sharpening, on blades meant to be resharpened, is so helpful, saves money, reduces scrap, and improves safety of blades in use. There are definitely improvements to be made to that thing. I would want to improve its rigidity, its locating and positive stop functions, and replace that crappy wheel. I would use a different abrasive, likely a superabrasive, but not diamond. Diamond structurally is a crystalline lattice of carbon, carbide structurally is a crystalline lattice composed of significant percentages of carbon. Consider the phrase, "like dissolves like," and you'll see why. Diamond abrasives service life is significantly reduced by using it on carbide. I know I'll get responses of, " I use my diamond on my blah blah blah blah." Don't bother. I didn't post this as a conversation. It's a comment. Agree or disagree, I don't care, that's your choice. I helped design tooling, based on physics, chemistry, thermodynamics determined by actually DOING things again and again and again and measuring the outcome, then DOING things and again measuring the results. So this isn't guesswork or opinion I base my COMMENT on. If you want to use this and see how things work for you, great. If you want to argue because you use this in your shop and ... Great. Happy for you. Have a wonderful life. Time for me to go, I've got a 106" resaw blade that needs resharpening and fifteen minutes before bedtime, and I still need to shower. Take care, build something useful, and stay safe!
No body cares about how "busy" you are. Everyone hates ramblers. Just as you said its a comment. You should have left your opinion as a comment and not a ramble of random crap and what you "have to do before bed" like your life is so much more important than the rest of us or we should feel pity. Although its funny to know you have a "bed time" like a child. In the country we don't have a "bed time" until the job is finished.
I've had one of those for 4 years evidently your blades are square cut ,the ones I have because of the curf I have to set the motor and 10 degree angle both directions for opposing teeth
I have used this sharpener for several years. I adjust the grinder to match the original angle of the tooth then sharpen every other one then readjust for the other teeth. I do not use the dog. Instead I rotated the blade so I can move the grinder into the gullet and then rotate the blade and touch the carbide against the diamond wheel. This way you can get the teeth sharp without removing excess carbide. I use carbide blades on a brush cutter to cut cedar trees in my pasture and the blade hits the dirt a lot. This sharpener has helped me get more use out of each blade.
There's a landfill in the back of my shed dedicated to thousands of those awesome blades that slowly become good for only a sharpening future that never came.
Yes, me too got the idea of using a regular grinder and doing it by hand, of course the accuracy of that sharpening machine it's going to be a lot better but hey for doing your own projects I think it will work, greetings my friend ! 😊
I have one of those and it works awesome. I also modified it to sharpen 15" planer blades with a vernier adjustment. Some day I may make a video and add it to my channel. Also you have to set the angle for every other tooth and then reset the angle for the ones you skipped.
Actually would think the clicker stop should be stopping against the next TOOTH instead of the rounded spacer gap. Would give a more positive stopping point. That would also move the stop support out away from the blade guard so it wouldn't bump when the blade comes in. Actually this is a good video, which along with the various comments would allow one to get it set up and used correctly. I'm betting it's not a bad piece of equipment once set up and I didn't even know they had this. So thanks. Floor laminate is a killer on saw blades.
I've never sharpened circular saw blades, but with this said I've sharpened professionally for years. Suggestion: find the right angle of every other blade tip and sharpen on slightly different angles for each other tip (as the blades come from the factory). This will increase the overall sharpness of the finished product. A little bit like sharpening chain saw blades. Great video I learned what really needed. Thanks.
Plus the tool does nothing to adjust set. And that's a really big factor when it comes to kerf. When blades get hot and spin the set is straightened up and kerf is reduced, which allows for pinch. Maybe the carbide blades don't have as much set, because the teeth are a bit larger than the blade. All I know is my dad used to sharpen our steel blades and though they do cut better, they still pinch and burn.
@@DrHarryT I do know carbide blades can be sharpened. Have used carbides for years. Found out most of the time carbide blades get unusable, is because a tooth is chipped badly or knocked off totally. But in 40 plus years of carpenter ing, I've always bought new. I thought about investing in a sharpening machine, but I always remember my dad, sitting for 20 minutes, sharpening steel blades and they work for about 10 cuts and still pinch and burn. Then I learned about set. And yes, pro sharpeners will set,set. I never had any sharpened. Thanks for the update.
My local blade sharpener gave me the price for my blades and they literally came out like 2-3 dollars cheaper than buying a new blade. so I said screw it and got one of these it's finicky and does a lil better with a finer blade but there's some videos etc on mods and getting it set up right. once you tinker with it a bit and get it set up right it does great. the biggest problem is getting the angles set if you have teeth that aren't set 90 degrees. it takes a lil patience but it's also 59 bucks instead of the 4-500 for a lil bit better unit or thousands for a commercial unit as for blade resharpening at least where I'm at it's not worth the cost unless you have blades that cost 2-300 dollars or more
Beautiful, you should be writing daily captions for a calendar company or maybe Hallmark cards, I'd buy one, seriously, but then again I'm over 50 and not "correct" in any form.
I have this unit. I took the cover off the wheel and adjust the blade so it is right. Ignore the clicker arm I then bring the wheel to the blade and move the blade into the wheel. It’s quicker and easier
Your pawl to index with needs to index on the actual tooth of the blade, your indexing in a radius relief and sliding around. As a machinist who has sharpened many types of cutters on professional factory type equipment you always located from the cutting edge of an existing tooth for accuracy.
Kinda what I was thinking... I’ve got some half dead cut off wheels that are too slow for cutting pipe anymore but I reckon they could take slivers off of old saw blades.
Am I the only one who had fun toys when I was a kid? 😳 Nowadays everything is considered so dangerous that adults and children alike aren't allowed anything, at least not without a hazmat suit, a helmet, safety boots and a written work order with complementary risk analysis...
Hate to be a stick in the mud here but I would recommend using a good quality respirator when sharpening carbide blades. Breathing carbide dust is extremely hazardous to your lungs. We had a guy at work whose only job was to sharpen all kinds of tools and blades. After years of doing so, he was no longer allowed to sharpen carbide toothed saw blades, bits or machinery knives because of the hazard. That probably wouldn't stop me from doing it at home with a respirator, though. It's a free country, for now, at least. Do what you think is right in this case, but be mindful of anyone who may enter your workspace and be exposed and keep making stuff!
I agree. If you are going to show how a machine works you really should adhere to all of the safety steps. In addition to a respirator, safety glasses should be worn most definitely when grinding any kind of metal.
Gil I commend you for pointing out the danger of grinding carbide. So many RUclips videos do a real disservice to the novice who has no clue. That is how we all start out. Some learn the hard way. Ironic, I will never forget a fellow who sold sheets of asbestos boards. He would also cut them for you. No mask. Wonder how that worked out.
@@crossgrainwoodproductsltd9230 Or use the tool how you see fit and expect people to use common sense when they are using them. I bet yall are the people telling everyone they better wear masks or die from covid.
@@merckling56 Yall??? whatever that means, is not a word in the dictionary- I don't have to tell anyone to wear a mask. Everyone I know and see in public is wearing a mask, because it is COMMON SENCE
@@crossgrainwoodproductsltd9230 Here is our first tiggered snowflake, y'all is in the Merriam Webster dictionary, it is a contraction of you-all which is used in addressing two or more people. Common sense driving at night with your headlights on, common sense isn't conforming to what the government tells you to do when Covid deaths/cases are being highly inflated for political and monetary gains especially when the CDC just came out saying that 6% of reported "Covid deaths" were actually do to Covid and not just a contributing factor. Maybe you should just stick to whittling wood, hopefully you are better at that tan life facts.
It's should be every other tooth. Then, I'm guessing he needs to flip the blade over and probably needs more angle. Guess it didn't come with instructions but then again, who reads them anyways.
Been Sharpining for years a few suggestions. Foley-Belsaw rip off. It's called facing. You should rub the tooth face not cut it. Set your angle by just touching the face, to the wheel on the first tooth. look for the shine, adjust the angle. Never mind the feedpawl. Turn, tap the blade into it with gentle pressure with back and forward motion. You save your carbide and diamond wheels.
@@chasechaffins4256 thats what I was thinking. Could save a man some money.. if you do alot of cutting everyday. For the average homeowner meh. Id use a grinder for a quick touch up.
@@milehigh3054 On carbine tip, a grinder will do nothing. I tried to sharpen a carbide earth auger tooth one time, and all it did to the tooth was polish it. It made a grove the grinder wheel.
Bought one from Harbor Freight about a year ago. Had a dozen or so blades of various sizes that was actually going to paint or stencil different pictures on for shop and yard art work or whatever. Then I seen this tool being demonstrated on You Tube. Thought damn for 60 bucks can't go wrong. What do I have to lose. Had some blades I spent 50, 60 bucks. For the money I made a good choice. The tool is sort of a pain in the butt to adjust and be able to tighten so it won't work loose. Once I figured the logistics on how to operate sharpened about a dozen blades in an hour or so. Just as sharp now as when new.
your post with the spring loaded flipper stop nees moved to the outer slot on the base so themotor doesnt hit the post when moving it forwards. that is what is changing the location of the cut
I would have thought the blade needed to be reversed so that the stop device would rest on the cutting tip of the saw blade and then the post would not catch the motor, if that makes sense.
I bought one for $10.00 at a yard sale. Sharpen all my blades, have small wood working shop. Mine sharpens all blades. Reg., carbide blades. Finishing blades. Great tool. Use black marker ,mark first tooth, keeps track. Great Vid. Have to save when, where can. 84 year old Wood butcher. God bless. 🐻
I think the spring action on the ratchet catch is so once the blade is in position you actually spin the blade into the stone instead of the stone into the blade.
My father has an old Fey Belsaw blade sharpener. He used to sharpen blades back in the 1980s for people. This was when many people still used the blades without the carbides, so he would sharpen and reset the teeth on those blades. One of the local blueberry farms would drop off their brush cutting blades.
the part that is spring loaded is hitting the grider cover. I dont think its suppose to do that thats why there is inconsistincy in the sharpening. some how you should be able to adjust the spring post over some so it wont hit into the grinding wheel guard
A buddy of mine has this tool, and we've sharpened a couple of my blades. They worked fine for my needs. I guess if you're a woodworker into fine, precision work this sharpener won't do it for you, but for my work they did great.
You have to adjust the part to catch the next blade section. It was way to close to the sharpening wheel it was getting moved which was causing it to move
I rented on walk behind saw cut hook with water hose on 4” concrete road. At first, I bought 2 Plastic casing saw blade from rental store, doesn’t cut on concrete real good and blades got short on me twice. No good!! I went back to rental store for more stronger saw blade, said doesn’t have any. I went to Lowes and found stronger blade called diamond cut. Wow on price, 1 diamond cut saw blade from Dewalt cost $100.00!! So I bought it and tried it. It’s really work greatly, of course used water hose hooked up to machine worked perfect. Saw blade never got low, I kept it in shop for next time in future. It’s best saw blade I’ve ever used. Recommend diamond cut to cut easily on concrete. 👌🏻
Well, no shit Captain Obvious! They ONLY supoply diamond blades for cutting concrete. That's what those walk-behind" saws and designed for, and that's why they have water feed on them. You must be an idiot if you think you can use a dry cut abrasive blade in such a machine.
Forget the click -stop , do it free hand , theres minor differences tooth to tooth anyway . . Support as close to the stone as you can . I also put a swivel light on the grinder , really helps .
If you got the odd tooth missing , dont junk the blade . You can silver solder teeth on . Take them off a bigger sized blade , and cut them down after its mounted . I make all my own tool bits for my lathes , often with special purpose shanks . I even make carbide hole saws , any size , out of tubing . I use flux coated , 13% silver brazing rod , but you can use the wire silver as well. You can rough them down with a green stone on a bench grinder . You can buy packages of carbide inserts .
I have one of these HF sharpeners, and ran into the same problem with the spring dog, and tooth misalignment. I ended up taking the dog off, and rotating the blade in the opposite direction, and manually aligning the saw tooth. I also tightened up the spring load clamp holding the blade down until I could barely turn it. You need to check a blade closely and see if the face angle is the same for adjacent teeth. Knowing the tooth geometry before you start grinding on a blade is very important. The other thing is, bolt/clamp down the thing. It will work much, much better. It CAN save you some money, but what you save in price, you have to invest in making improvements to the thing.
@@meangreen7389 Thanks... I had an 8th grade English teacher who was hell on wheels. Other than loudly making sure we knew she was from St Louie, & NOT St Louis, she repeatedly shouted at us 'The primary purpose of the written word is communication. If you cannot write well, you cannot communicate.' I guess it stuck...
Not wanting to sound critical ...but I notice as in your first blade dressing example that the vertical index stop is pushing against the grinding wheel cover, while the blade is being introduced into the dressing wheel... setup is 80%. Old Tech Instructor .
Right ! If you are home owner you'll just buy new ones because you won't be going through them like a carpenter, If you'er a contractor, then you add them on the price of job. No time to be sharpening.
I have one and have sharpened multiple blades of differing size. I totally ignore the ratchet arm (the frustrating part) and just move the blade into the diamond wheel by hand, rub it back and forth 4 times with equal pressure each time. All it can sharpen is the front of the tooth which is normally perpendicular to the blade. Won't sharpen the back of sides. Not a big problem. It will sharpen a very dull blade to the point of being usable. It will not do the job of a CNC blade sharpening service. That being said, I have sharpened my 10" Frued TS and MS blades a 12" MS blade and a 4.5" Skil flooring blade. Worth it to me, not garbage.
Thanks for the review. I might get one of these. My hesitation is not about the cost, its about having another tool taking up space when I could MAYBE use my cut off tool and make a jig to hold the blade... maybe. Just FYI, I think you were cutting too much tooth material because the lock dog wasn't set up right... or if you prefer... I could keep my unasked for opinions to myself! Thanks again,
I have a blade sharpener and I go through a lot to set it up and use it but after watching your video I am going to go to my local harbor freight and get me one and try it and will get back to you on how I like it.I am a custom woodworker of furniture of all kinds, you name it i build it from scrach.thanks for the video. Wayne from Townsend Delaware.
This is a great tool for the shop. Since I bought one 4 years ago, I have not bought another blade. I sharpen 8", 10" and 12" blades with it. Working on a jig which will sharpen bandsaw blades.
I see some saying this machine is total crap. You say its good. Guess its some dont really know how to use it because if it was really that bad then it would be bad for everyone
That's why I returned the POS. Always need to adjust it. Some tips wear different and the grinding wheel will either not touch or will grind too far in.
Agreed, the indexing pawl is not set up right. It might never be precise enough to use without adjusting each cut by hand. But what can we expect at that price. It probably would revitalize a lot of blades satisfactorily.
I think you should try flipping the blade over! By the way the spring loaded blade alignment piece is designed and the angle of the slot it goes into it move the pull handle to the left and flip the blade over. I would have tried it but it may be immediately obvious whether it will work or not!
Growing up back in the 60s & 70s we had a neighbour who mad a good living with a saw sharpening business in his garage. Hand and circular a chain saws. But by the 90s the disposable society put him out of business. Shoe repair use to be a good trade too.
Dear friend, watching your video reveals that the index mechanism on the right side of the device is coming into contact with the cover of the grinding disc cover! It flexes to the right every time you move the grinding wheel forward and thus causing the problem of it not properly indexing and aligning ;-)
I've used one of these before, in fact I've used one that's much older and has to be done by hand, you're not actually supposed to bring the blade into the tooth, this is the reason why you have the play in the blade, you're supposed to turn the blade into the grinding stone which you're calling a blade. So you pass the tooth by about a 16th of an inch, then you pull the arm to bring the blade in to the cerf, then you push the blade into the stone. It's called a cutting Stone. You're very close, but your expectations are slightly off. I still give you a like for trying. Go to a blade sharpening store and ask the attendant how you're supposed to use that tool. I see after watching the video a little further, you caught on. Now you understand how it's actually supposed to work.
I can't speak to that Ridgid blade, but the tooth faces on all my 10" and 12" DeWalt blades are set at 90° ... not angled. The teeth on my DeWalt dado stack are also set at 90°. Since the faces are perpendicular to the blade, they can all be sharpened in one set-up. The width of the carbide tips determines kerf width.
@@kennnva551 Must be why when my blade got junk on it, plastic, sap, whatever. I just put a sharp chisel on side of blade and hit the trigger and clean it off. Cuts good again.
The kerf width is set by the width of the cutters on carbide blades. What the opposing angles do is keep the cut from "drifting" sideways and making a curved or crooked cut. That way, each pass of a left cutter is compensated for by the immediate following of a right cutter.
I've been sharpening them by hand for many years! Didn't even know there was some tool for it. I suppose it would be a might faster, but sharpening your tools is the fun part!
correct.. but that still doesn't fix a worn kerf, which is there for clearance and side surface contact area reduction. The validity of re-sharpening depends on first assessing the condition of the cutting edges. More times than none, it makes more sense to replace "simple" blades like these. I typically only re-sharpen drill bits (some) and lathe and Mill cutters.
Not on most blades, it is the top grind that varies on some blades, not the front face grind. I have used it on alternate bevel, rip and triple chip blades.
@@oleanderson3693 Firstly his blade is already angled as you can see if you watched him set it up. Secondly, every single blade I own has alternating angles on the faces of the teeth.
the machine does the angles. i think he should have used it a few times before making the video. user errors are the most common reason for poor sharpening of any equipment. i can't count how many times I've seen people "sharpen" chainsaw blades that were pretty much destroyed by improper use of the machine
I've seen these saw blade sharpeners in different names, but they all seem like the exact same design and setup. I wonder why they had everything sitting on stilts instead of making it flat with solid platforms to hold the blade solid and still give a great results. I realize the motor has to have room to clear the casing and blade, but lowering everything as low as possible offers a more solid setup. Might have to design one for my usage and see how it works.
This thing looks like garbage. You said, "man this is frustrating" way too many times for it to be useful for me. Save yourself some time and money by buying blades with better quality carbide. All of the blades you show buy bulk carbide from China. Diablo is the only company that makes their own. Also, all of those blades are stamped out with a press. That will cause the final product to have a lot more vibration, and as a result, burn up quicker. Diablo costs the same, if not less than those blades and every one of their blades are laser cut because of the higher quality steel they use. Save money by buying a quality blade to begin with.
Diablo blades kick serious ass. Their carbide metal cutting blades are the most impressive that I've ever seen - I was trying to find it's match and it cut through 3/8" 17-4 stainless solid bar with relative ease - that was shocking to me. I'll normally use the bandsaw for that, but it was fast and CLEAN. You're spot on - DeWilt, milfuckee and other big box blades are all the same crap.
My dad used to sharpen blades. I distinctly remember he would sharpen every other tooth, then turn the blade over and sharpen the other teeth, because teeth on a saw blade bevel out in an alternating pattern to keep the cut material from building up and making the blade get hot.
@@nzer57 so what blade has all the teeth beveled to the same side, because I have been carpentering for 45 years and I've never seen one. I'll admit I haven't seen it all, but not one in 45 years must make them somewhat rare...no?
So having been trained in saw sharpening, you likely need to do every other tooth paying attention to the actual angle and then switch the angle to sharpen the opposite angle teeth!
Pretty cool tool but the first thing I do before I would even attempt to sharpen any saw blades is clean it. Many saw blades get built up with dried sap, resin and wood glues that will appear to dull the blade when all you needed to do is clean it properly. I use a top of a 5 gallon HD bucket and the blades sit in there perfectly,. I then soak it in either some blade cleaner or I use Simple Green. let it soak, then scrub it with a brass wire brush, dry it off and test it. If it's still dull, then yes you could go ahead and try to sharpen it. But I agree with KOTC, if it's still dull after cleaning, I'll just replace it since this is very time consuming. Cheers!
Haha like King said, sounds like a lot of work lol. I'll give it a shot and see if it works. Simple green is some good stuff. Thanks for the comment William!
Like someone else said..."Find the right angle of every other blade tip and sharpen on slightly different angles for each other tip" Then pull the tooth out of the way of the grinding wheel, pull the handle back to put the grinding wheel into the notch in front of the tooth to be grinded, then release the blade to let the tooth spring load into the grinding wheel. Grind the tooth only enough to make the tooth flat, edges sharp and point too at the right angle. Try to keep the grinding duration the same as not to remove different amounts of metal from each tooth...Be consistent.
If you take a closer look every other tooth on the blade has a different angle, so what you are doing here is wrong. You should set the bevel one way, do every other tooth and re adjust the bevel the other way and do the skipped teeth. Also when you pull on the handle, your wheel guard is pushing against the lock pin. Good video
I just watched your video on the harbor freight saw blade sharpener. A tip that you can use that will prolong the life of your blade, is use a non-toxic oven cleaner spray to remove the pitch off the sides of your blade. Most of the time that will stop any burning and your blade will almost be like new. Just passing it on man.
thomas 971 yeah so many things could have been done better, he wrecked the chisel point on so many of those teeth 😂 I feel the tool in the right persons hands may produce a lot better results even though it’s a cheap piece of crap
I use a mt2 holder in my Bridgeport but anything just to hold it horizontal. Mark it with felt pen, take air grinder with fine blade at 40lbs of air and start touching, doesn't take long
It looks like a bushing needs to be installed on the center of the blade to keep it centered with the bolt on the bracket. So when your turning the blade to the next tooth it will stay exactly centered
I use my " cut-off wheel " and sharpen them by hand but I must admit having everything stable would be cleaner. Maybe remake some of the machines cheaper parts .
Please get them sharpened at a actual company and not just reface them, my company does the od along with facing and you get about 10 more sharpening with them, but if insist on doing it yourself do it with a diamond grinding wheel and some type of lubricant even if it’s pouring water on it you’ll get a much cleaner grind than a cut off wheel
You should look more closely at a "new/good" blade every other tooth is cutting the same side, tapering down and away from the highest point, alternating like a chainsaw chain. Good blades are easy to keep sharp. Buy blades with more teeth. Each tooth takes less material and therefore less wear, also try letting your saw get up to full speed before yanking it through the board. Let it chew it's way through the board, slowly, this will prevent too big of a bite with each cut of the tooth. Thereby reducing heat buildup. Simple good shop maintenance and good sharp tools will go a long way to making your projects faster and less stressful.
Taff Daddy there are many different types of grinds for blades not all are ATB. More teeth also doesn’t mean a blade is going to last longer. Using the proper rip or crosscut blade is going to help longevity more than anything
I think it would work much better if you follow more closely the angles of the existing teeth and try to recreate the same. Every other tooth is the opposite angle of the one next to it. Of course it cuts because the teeth have an edge after you grind it back a little but the edge is sqware so it is pushing and not clearing the chips effectively, so it needs an angle to achieve this. The blade will track a straight line better and cut the edges neater with less heat too. Thanks for vid. 👍
Nice video. Two tips, first get yourself some really strong ammonia (it is great for removing the pitch on the blade) to clean the blade. Makes a world of difference in how much forward pressure you need when cutting. Second, some blades alternate angles every other tooth which makes the kerf slightly wider which also reduced drag when sawing.
Tool can also be purchased on Amazon here amzn.to/2EcBZRe
@@iainohalloran42
And you probably have a lot more common sense and a better sharpener not made in a country killing us all with their filth.
If anyone ever brings ANYTHING made in China to my house out is coming the 12 gauge ahead of the 22's my children will have fun finishing up with.
Yupp.
🇺🇸 🗽
Now quick, some bleeding heart troller go report me.
Looks like another Harbor Freight nightmare to me!
Blade didn’t need sharpening bud. You should do a video on cleaning your blades. You can do that a couple times before you need to sharpen it.
Go to an auto parts shop and pick up a gallon of Super Clean. Set your blades in it for maybe 5 minutes and you will be amazed.
It will strip off all the labeling but who cares. Suggest a good wash off afterwards and then protect them from moisture with whatever you like to use on blades that get wet. Wax, dry silicone, or just the water displacement 40 we all have a can of.
Also. Your blades would have cut faster and stayed sharp longer with a slight angle to the sharpening. Check out a new blade the next time you buy one.
If you get real bored during quarantine see what some 1,000-3000 grit paper does to improve them by polishing the sides as well. Packs are about $5.00 from Lowe’s/Home Depot and last a while.
@@stlalways6715
💘 It.
Another Real Fucking American 🇺🇸 🗽 Who actually knows how to work and make shit last, after buying the right shit the first time.
There's Indeed a future for Us 🇺🇸 yet.
And I ain't sellin ya hopeless faith.
Just git a Real J-O-B.
🍺👍😎
I think you should have done every other because they are sharpened on an left and right angle.
Retired journeyman carpenter here. Years ago, on a job site, the sharpening service was unable to come due to truck problems. We had a tech who decided to sharpen the blade himself, sharpening each tooth carefully. The blade didn't cut afterwards. So one of the carpenter's tried it, same result. I asked them to give me 15 minutes with the blade. It cut perfectly when I was done. The focus is NOT on each tooth, it is on the PERFECT centricity of the blade. Your individual teeth can be as sharp as can be, but if your blade is not circular, you'll be cutting with only one tooth; the highest one.
Yea I was wondering why there was a circle blade jointer in my Uncles stuff.
That makes a lot of sense.
only partly correct - your problem only becomes an issue with very high rpm and slow rate of feed. in normal use if you visualise the cutting in microsecond timeframe - this is what happens - the high tooth cuts and the blade is moves forward with the following lower teeth meeting fresh uncut material. what WILL happen if the blade is not circular is vibration and chatter showing in the cut
This was mentioned yesterday. "The lock dog should be adjusted to enter the tooth root at more of an angle...not straight in. Move the post away from the sharpener", and at a tight angle to the blade tooth. When it clicks in the blade, it should not be able to move back wards at all. Used this clicker as a jam tool to aim, and lock your blade for every tooth. Yes, it was also too close to the sharpener and that was moving it over every time you moved the sharpener forward. I also agree every other cutting tooth should be at a opposite angle, to remove your cut out of the way.
Use a Red Felt Tip marker to mark your first tooth...it helps you to know where you started and how m any more teeth you need to sharpen..
That goes without saying. Or every other on for the blades with alternating teeth
errr... you really should be able to tell by looking at the tooth if it's sharpened or not.
Please stop giving him new ideas
👏🙂
Can I use a black marker?
Working in a professional cabinet shop, I was tasked with getting our blades sharpened on a regular basis. We had a man that was a professional blade sharpener/repairer. He not only did our saw blades, but he also did our drill bits and router bits, and any other cutting tool we had. This saved the company tens of thousands of dollars a year. As new blades and bits were quite expensive, having our old ones sharpened was the smart thing to do. As I had a home shop also, our company allowed me to include my own blades with theirs to be sharpened. This is because I provided a service to my bosses and the CEO with my own skills building things they needed. There was a mutual respect between us that you rarely see in business.
It is almost impossible to find any tool sharpening service here in Southern NJ. I was looking for a local service yo sharpen my end mill that I use in mu milling machine and there's nothing anywhere around. Same with saw sharpening. Nobody has carried on these businesses and they're long gone.
@@hootinouts send them to me. I'm a professional sharpener. I'm in California.
Take note boys, service is a codeword for blowjob.
@@hootinouts my friend there are plenty of mail in sharpening services. just google them. you might need to send 3 or 4 blades to make it worth the shipping however.
I own a professional sharpening center and witnessed many accidents when people run dull blades. If your location doesn't offer a sharpening service this machine will help . Thanks for sharing 👍
Worked at a large slaughterhouse back in the 1970's. They had a sharpener for some of the long straight blades. All round blades were sent out every week. Think be cause we sent out over 150 blades a month only charged around $5" a blade to resharpen. Nice vid. I'm a retired sparky and only use my circular saw a few times a year but always purchase car nice tipped circular saw blades. Saw sharpener company told me that the extra cheap blades that come with a new circular saw are throw away and should not be reshatoened.
Yes definite learning curve. I've had the same one for 3 or 4 years. All the adjusters on this unit are really too imprecise. Here's the trick. Set the bade with the black handle pulled all the way in towards you -- don't touch it again. Wear leather gloves! Now what you do is free hand all the carbide sharpening. I set the blade around 10 degrees bevel and sharpen every other tooth, once complete I reset the bevel for the blade around 10 degrees opposite pitch. I practiced on a few and within an hour I was whizzing through em. Has saved me probably a $1000 or more in new purchases and sending them out for re-sharpening.
I did same thing 10 years ago, had an odd 9" miter saw I couldn't find blades for. Only problem was I only had one blade, you can only sharpen it so many times. Lol
Thanks for addressing that. That's doing it right.
I just got this and not used it yet, I do think that could be better to free hand the blade onto the cutting wheel rather than use the blade tooth lock
Yeah this is what I ended up doing with it, the whole thing is just too flimsy otherwise.
It cost $35 at my Harbor Freight. I'll get it just to see what it can do.
I was a machinist with TRW Wendt-Sonis 16 years. When starting a sharpening set up, one would use a black marker to color area to be ground. Coming in slowly to the darkened area with the grinding wheel, you could tell when the ground area was at "clean up", as the color was erased and the carbide was shined, ready to be ground to tolerance
This procedure at set up allows minimal carbide to be removed in the sharpening process
I like mine . Works real good. Take your time , figure it out , sharpens blades very well. I've even bought blades at junk stores garage sales and such. And brought them back to life.
Lol, my Dad used to make "let" me sharpen his saw blades with a file... took forever but I learned a valuable skill!
Just by cleaning the gunk off the blade improves the cut a LOT, I was actually amazed how much improves, I do it just with a simple file, not sure if you can recover a blade but you definitely improve the cut by doing some maintenance to it.
Easy off oven cleaner will clean the gunk, no file required.
I sharpen professionally and find simple green the go to cleaner, a pair of cut resistant gloves and a magnet to handle the blade if needed. If the blades are scrubbed they need some type of rust proofing and use dry spray lubricant after.
@@markthompson1330 that's a good topic: what do you recommend for 'rustproofing'? I've heard wax, but it doesn't last or even do it well enough; oils of vaious kinds, but not generally suitable for this application; paint isn't right for a sawblade; always looking out for a better idea.
@@atlantajunglepythons1744 I only use DuPont Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant, any wax will burn when using the blade and make a mess to clean off, so far the dry film lube from DuPont works. I use it on many types of blades I sharpen since it stops rust and provides protection if the tool or blade is stored or shipped.
@@markthompson1330 I just boughtba can of that, thks for the info. Looks similar to one I used to use, 'Dri-Coat'. Spray, dry, wipe in the excess.
Hey , I am a retired Woodworker with over 25 years professional years behind me and over35 years of Woodworking as a hobby it sounds like you are grinding way more than you need to on Carbide tipped saw blades I like the machine set up you are using but maybe your wheel is too coarse or the blade needs to be readjusted usually I just basically dress the cutting face up as compared to grinding a brand new surface I actually have some Blades that are as old as the 1950s and were my Fathers those are just HSS not the preferred Carbide tipped I’ve even used 800grit wet/dry sandpaper glued to a flat surface to make just a few passes onthe Carbide and that will give me many more good cuts on the blade
Yep I agree. With 46 years of woodworking experience I have learned a lot about tooling. With carbide teeth you want to use the finest grit possible.....assuming that the carbide isn't chipped badly. And set grinder to only "kiss" the face surface of the tooth. Also the indexer should be adjusted to go into the gullet at the base of the tooth in lieu of the place it was catching. You can't possibly secure the blade to repeat repositioning precisely enough without a lot of slop.
I have one. Took the cover off and use it as a mini bench grinder for small shit like chisels etc. I use it at least every other day for one thing or another thats other than its intended use. I'm surprised it's become so handy.
I have this sharpener. The stop arm is inconsistent so I just set the blade in place and rotated the tooth by hand against the sharpening blade. It's quicker and I just hold each one for a few seconds. Does just fine without the frustration.
I was just coming down here to the comments to help him. I can see that others have done the same… but I want to add to it, and hopefully it will help clarify things for those who are newer to the industry, or just newer to this specific style of blade, sharpening machine.
You have to adjust this machine so that the stopper flips flat against the next carbide tooth! This type of sawblade has half of the carbide teeth that “normal” 40-60 tooth plywood blades would have so that it hits the gullet, where other blades would have another carbide tooth for the a ATDPAD to stop against. Also, you need to tighten the ATDPAD so that it doesn’t flex at all!
It’s called a “Adjacent Tooth Dependent Precise Advancing Detent” for good reason. 😉👍🏼
It's a great concept. I've designed and built my own sharpening tools for my shop, and am constantly asked to build more for friends, relatives, and coworkers. I've designed and built more tooling, workholding, locating, locking, fixturing, stuff that needs to be precise, accurate, repeatable - and due to 20% of my crew everywhere I've worked - and idiot resistant (because just as there is nothing completely bullet "proof" there is nothing completely idiot "proof" ... some idiots are just amazing). Blade sharpening, on blades meant to be resharpened, is so helpful, saves money, reduces scrap, and improves safety of blades in use.
There are definitely improvements to be made to that thing. I would want to improve its rigidity, its locating and positive stop functions, and replace that crappy wheel. I would use a different abrasive, likely a superabrasive, but not diamond. Diamond structurally is a crystalline lattice of carbon, carbide structurally is a crystalline lattice composed of significant percentages of carbon. Consider the phrase, "like dissolves like," and you'll see why. Diamond abrasives service life is significantly reduced by using it on carbide.
I know I'll get responses of, " I use my diamond on my blah blah blah blah." Don't bother. I didn't post this as a conversation. It's a comment. Agree or disagree, I don't care, that's your choice. I helped design tooling, based on physics, chemistry, thermodynamics determined by actually DOING things again and again and again and measuring the outcome, then DOING things and again measuring the results. So this isn't guesswork or opinion I base my COMMENT on. If you want to use this and see how things work for you, great. If you want to argue because you use this in your shop and ... Great. Happy for you. Have a wonderful life.
Time for me to go, I've got a 106" resaw blade that needs resharpening and fifteen minutes before bedtime, and I still need to shower. Take care, build something useful, and stay safe!
Thanks for the info! Since you wouldn't use diamond, what would you use, and is it readily available in the retail market?
No body cares about how "busy" you are. Everyone hates ramblers. Just as you said its a comment. You should have left your opinion as a comment and not a ramble of random crap and what you "have to do before bed" like your life is so much more important than the rest of us or we should feel pity. Although its funny to know you have a "bed time" like a child. In the country we don't have a "bed time" until the job is finished.
While growing up a common phrase we used (3rd grade - 1963!) was 'Don't make anything idiot proof. Someone will just build a better idiot.'
Great feedback 👍
Just noticed the blade shroud catching on ratchet post when you bring blade forward to trim, move ratchet post away, should sort out alignment.
I've had one of those for 4 years evidently your blades are square cut ,the ones I have because of the curf I have to set the motor and 10 degree angle both directions for opposing teeth
I have used this sharpener for several years. I adjust the grinder to match the original angle of the tooth then sharpen every other one then readjust for the other teeth. I do not use the dog. Instead I rotated the blade so I can move the grinder into the gullet and then rotate the blade and touch the carbide against the diamond wheel. This way you can get the teeth sharp without removing excess carbide. I use carbide blades on a brush cutter to cut cedar trees in my pasture and the blade hits the dirt a lot. This sharpener has helped me get more use out of each blade.
There's a landfill in the back of my shed dedicated to thousands of those awesome blades that slowly become good for only a sharpening future that never came.
You can make nice knife blades from them btw
@@krustysurfer I procrastinate sharpening these blades and you want me to stoke up the furnace? Yeah!
@@Eugwel yep! Make some nice knifes
Thanks to this video I just find out that I can use a grinder to do that. Taking my time one by one. Thanks for your time and effort in this video.
Any sort of instructional video on doing so?
Yes, me too got the idea of using a regular grinder and doing it by hand, of course the accuracy of that sharpening machine it's going to be a lot better but hey for doing your own projects I think it will work, greetings my friend ! 😊
Good luck sharpening carbide blades with a regular grinder; there is a reason that carbide grinding has to be done with a diamond coated wheel.
I have one of those and it works awesome. I also modified it to sharpen 15" planer blades with a vernier adjustment. Some day I may make a video and add it to my channel. Also you have to set the angle for every other tooth and then reset the angle for the ones you skipped.
Actually would think the clicker stop should be stopping against the next TOOTH instead of the rounded spacer gap. Would give a more positive stopping point. That would also move the stop support out away from the blade guard so it wouldn't bump when the blade comes in. Actually this is a good video, which along with the various comments would allow one to get it set up and used correctly. I'm betting it's not a bad piece of equipment once set up and I didn't even know they had this. So thanks. Floor laminate is a killer on saw blades.
2:25 “I am not trying say i am cheap but I am cheap” 👈🤣😂😅
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Wow. 10x funnier after reading your post. Bless mon!
As he dips the most expensive snuff!
I've never sharpened circular saw blades, but with this said I've sharpened professionally for years. Suggestion: find the right angle of every other blade tip and sharpen on slightly different angles for each other tip (as the blades come from the factory). This will increase the overall sharpness of the finished product.
A little bit like sharpening chain saw blades. Great video I learned what really needed. Thanks.
Rat tail files!!
Plus the tool does nothing to adjust set. And that's a really big factor when it comes to kerf. When blades get hot and spin the set is straightened up and kerf is reduced, which allows for pinch. Maybe the carbide blades don't have as much set, because the teeth are a bit larger than the blade. All I know is my dad used to sharpen our steel blades and though they do cut better, they still pinch and burn.
@@peterford9369 Yes, on these blades the carbide tooth is wide enough to make clearance for the blade.
@@DrHarryT I do know carbide blades can be sharpened. Have used carbides for years. Found out most of the time carbide blades get unusable, is because a tooth is chipped badly or knocked off totally. But in 40 plus years of carpenter ing, I've always bought new. I thought about investing in a sharpening machine, but I always remember my dad, sitting for 20 minutes, sharpening steel blades and they work for about 10 cuts and still pinch and burn. Then I learned about set. And yes, pro sharpeners will set,set. I never had any sharpened. Thanks for the update.
I take my blades and hand saws too my local lumber store. they send them out, get sharpened, pinned balanced and teeth off set again.
What do they typically charge, if you don't mind my asking? Is it based on the number of teeth?
My local blade sharpener gave me the price for my blades and they literally came out like 2-3 dollars cheaper than buying a new blade. so I said screw it and got one of these it's finicky and does a lil better with a finer blade but there's some videos etc on mods and getting it set up right. once you tinker with it a bit and get it set up right it does great. the biggest problem is getting the angles set if you have teeth that aren't set 90 degrees. it takes a lil patience but it's also 59 bucks instead of the 4-500 for a lil bit better unit or thousands for a commercial unit as for blade resharpening at least where I'm at it's not worth the cost unless you have blades that cost 2-300 dollars or more
@@umahunter How about the carbide teeth caps? They fall off of some teeth and the rest remain. What do you do then?
About as precise as sewing an ant's ass shut with boxing gloves on
Beautiful, you should be writing daily captions for a calendar company or maybe Hallmark cards, I'd buy one, seriously, but then again I'm over 50 and not "correct" in any form.
😂
Never heard that one, gonna have to share it with my son who's 31 & always cracking me up.
kicknsystm are you sure he’s 31?
@@hauntedhose He'd better be or I'm going senile.
I have this unit. I took the cover off the wheel and adjust the blade so it is right. Ignore the clicker arm I then bring the wheel to the blade and move the blade into the wheel. It’s quicker and easier
and probably takes a consistent amount of material off of each tooth.
I do the same thing with mine. Works great.
Yes rely on the eyes better~!
faultroy I haven’t had to deal with alternate angles, but of the blades I have sharpened it works real well. Cheaper then sending them out
My thought exactly. Throw away that spring loaded arm. It's worthless.
After sharpening blades for a living for 40 years I can assure you that this machine needs lots of work to make it usable
I've never sharpened anything but pencils and i see that myself... ;)
The reviewer is not USING it correctly. He has the blade on upside down, and it using the indexing thingie wrongly.
Your pawl to index with needs to index on the actual tooth of the blade, your indexing in a radius relief and sliding around. As a machinist who has sharpened many types of cutters on professional factory type equipment you always located from the cutting edge of an existing tooth for accuracy.
WHAT!
I might be able to do that with a die grinder, w/ a steady hand - very steady... I never throw them away, they just pile up so I have nothing to lose.
put your hand grinder in a vice, save $50, this tool made me just as nervous looked like it could take off a whole cutting edge with one mistake.
I mean, you COULD, but I'd look up if there is a little mount you could make to hold it.
@richard mccann
DIAMOND SAW BLADES don't cut wood.
What a piece of junk
Kinda what I was thinking... I’ve got some half dead cut off wheels that are too slow for cutting pipe anymore but I reckon they could take slivers off of old saw blades.
move your stop so it points straight into the tooth without flexing
I grind my old blades into throwing ninja stars for the kids to play with.
Sounds smart!
I just give my kids a box of matches on a week🔥
Am I the only one who had fun toys when I was a kid? 😳
Nowadays everything is considered so dangerous that adults and children alike aren't allowed anything, at least not without a hazmat suit, a helmet, safety boots and a written work order with complementary risk analysis...
@@calvin4875 sounds more like child abuse. I hope he has a good medical plan.
Do you make lawn darts out of your old screwdrivers too??
Hate to be a stick in the mud here but I would recommend using a good quality respirator when sharpening carbide blades. Breathing carbide dust is extremely hazardous to your lungs. We had a guy at work whose only job was to sharpen all kinds of tools and blades. After years of doing so, he was no longer allowed to sharpen carbide toothed saw blades, bits or machinery knives because of the hazard. That probably wouldn't stop me from doing it at home with a respirator, though. It's a free country, for now, at least. Do what you think is right in this case, but be mindful of anyone who may enter your workspace and be exposed and keep making stuff!
I agree. If you are going to show how a machine works you really should adhere to all of the safety steps. In addition to a respirator, safety glasses should be worn most definitely when grinding any kind of metal.
Gil I commend you for pointing out the danger of grinding carbide. So many RUclips videos do a real disservice to the novice who has no clue. That is how we all start out. Some learn the hard way. Ironic, I will never forget a fellow who sold sheets of asbestos boards. He would also cut them for you. No mask. Wonder how that worked out.
@@crossgrainwoodproductsltd9230
Or use the tool how you see fit and expect people to use common sense when they are using them.
I bet yall are the people telling everyone they better wear masks or die from covid.
@@merckling56 Yall??? whatever that means, is not a word in the dictionary- I don't have to tell anyone to wear a mask. Everyone I know and see in public is wearing a mask, because it is COMMON SENCE
@@crossgrainwoodproductsltd9230
Here is our first tiggered snowflake, y'all is in the Merriam Webster dictionary, it is a contraction of you-all which is used in addressing two or more people.
Common sense driving at night with your headlights on, common sense isn't conforming to what the government tells you to do when Covid deaths/cases are being highly inflated for political and monetary gains especially when the CDC just came out saying that 6% of reported "Covid deaths" were actually do to Covid and not just a contributing factor.
Maybe you should just stick to whittling wood, hopefully you are better at that tan life facts.
Excellent! We go through a lot of blades in our Fabrication shop. I will present this to the owner. Awesome tutorial
Any updates? Curious about what he said.
Your Ratchet Post is too close the Cutting Head. The Shroud keeps Hitting it and pushing it out of alignment.
Yup and he can adjust it to line up on the other tooth that has been sharpened.
I don't even bother with the ratchet post... just turn it by hand as well as move in & out.
It's should be every other tooth. Then, I'm guessing he needs to flip the blade over and probably needs more angle. Guess it didn't come with instructions but then again, who reads them anyways.
Typical china crap work on it constantly for it to work right
Yes is that notch tower able to be adjusted away from that cover that moves it?
Been Sharpining for years a few suggestions.
Foley-Belsaw rip off.
It's called facing. You should rub the tooth face not cut it. Set your angle by just touching the face, to the wheel on the first tooth. look for the shine, adjust the angle. Never mind the feedpawl. Turn, tap the blade into it with gentle pressure with back and forward motion.
You save your carbide and diamond wheels.
The lock dog should be adjusted to enter the tooth root at more of an angle...not straight in. Move the post away from the sharpener
He needed to just turn the blade over then it would click into the appropriate notch the right way.
@@chasechaffins4256 thats what I was thinking. Could save a man some money.. if you do alot of cutting everyday. For the average homeowner meh. Id use a grinder for a quick touch up.
Yep - he has the blade upside down. Supposed to be a "reviewer" yet is totally clueless and doesn't even read the fucking INSTRUCTIONS.
@@milehigh3054 On carbine tip, a grinder will do nothing. I tried to sharpen a carbide earth auger tooth one time, and all it did to the tooth was polish it. It made a grove the grinder wheel.
Tooth "gullet".
Bought one from Harbor Freight about a year ago. Had a dozen or so blades of various sizes that was actually going to paint or stencil different pictures on for shop and yard art work or whatever. Then I seen this tool being demonstrated on You Tube. Thought damn for 60 bucks can't go wrong. What do I have to lose. Had some blades I spent 50, 60 bucks. For the money I made a good choice. The tool is sort of a pain in the butt to adjust and be able to tighten so it won't work loose. Once I figured the logistics on how to operate sharpened about a dozen blades in an hour or so. Just as sharp now as when new.
your post with the spring loaded flipper stop nees moved to the outer slot on the base so themotor doesnt hit the post when moving it forwards. that is what is changing the location of the cut
Also there should have been a bushing to hold blade centered. That was the rest of the problem
I would have thought the blade needed to be reversed so that the stop device would rest on the cutting tip of the saw blade and then the post would not catch the motor, if that makes sense.
@@stevieravon havent used mine for a while but i believe th blade locates on a cone to center it
@@stevieravon - watch the video, idiot. There is a centre bush in the blade, dumbass.
I bought one for $10.00 at a yard sale. Sharpen all my blades, have small wood working shop. Mine sharpens all blades. Reg., carbide blades. Finishing blades. Great tool. Use black marker ,mark first tooth, keeps track. Great Vid. Have to save when, where can. 84 year old Wood butcher. God bless. 🐻
I think the spring action on the ratchet catch is so once the blade is in position you actually spin the blade into the stone instead of the stone into the blade.
This is the secret! This is what all of the videos get wrong! You don't bring the stone into the blade, you bring the blade into the stone.
My father has an old Fey Belsaw blade sharpener. He used to sharpen blades back in the 1980s for people. This was when many people still used the blades without the carbides, so he would sharpen and reset the teeth on those blades. One of the local blueberry farms would drop off their brush cutting blades.
the part that is spring loaded is hitting the grider cover. I dont think its suppose to do that thats why there is inconsistincy in the sharpening. some how you should be able to adjust the spring post over some so it wont hit into the grinding wheel guard
i bought one about a year ago. i know it's Harbor Freight but it has sharpened my blades very sharp. It does a great job.
A buddy of mine has this tool, and we've sharpened a couple of my blades. They worked fine for my needs. I guess if you're a woodworker into fine, precision work this sharpener won't do it for you, but for my work they did great.
A real fine wood worker wonn't touch power tools...
@@slchang01 Doesn't mean the "real fine woodworker" is doing work of any more quality than I do, just because they refuse to use power tools.
You have to adjust the part to catch the next blade section. It was way to close to the sharpening wheel it was getting moved which was causing it to move
yes it needs moved to the outer slot on the base
Great video. After you sharpen a blade,a quick coat of automotive paste wax will keep sap from making the blade grab, which is what burns
Spray with Oven cleaner. Blades get gunked with pitch. Spray and let sit for a few minutes,wipe off. Good as new.
78kawasaki650 aha, oven cleaner... nice, thanks!
I rented on walk behind saw cut hook with water hose on 4” concrete road. At first, I bought 2 Plastic casing saw blade from rental store, doesn’t cut on concrete real good and blades got short on me twice. No good!!
I went back to rental store for more stronger saw blade, said doesn’t have any. I went to Lowes and found stronger blade called diamond cut. Wow on price, 1 diamond cut saw blade from Dewalt cost $100.00!!
So I bought it and tried it. It’s really work greatly, of course used water hose hooked up to machine worked perfect. Saw blade never got low, I kept it in shop for next time in future.
It’s best saw blade I’ve ever used.
Recommend diamond cut to cut easily on concrete. 👌🏻
Well, no shit Captain Obvious! They ONLY supoply diamond blades for cutting concrete. That's what those walk-behind" saws and designed for, and that's why they have water feed on them. You must be an idiot if you think you can use a dry cut abrasive blade in such a machine.
Harbor Freight is constantly finding ways to get me into their store lol.
Wish they would send out the coupons again, ain’t scared of no flu.
Interesting, I would have never thought to sharpen circular saw blades. Cool stuff Clint!
Dont bother.
I leave this under every video I watched, it helps the algorithm
Forget the click -stop , do it free hand , theres minor differences tooth to tooth anyway . . Support as close to the stone as you can . I also put a swivel light on the grinder , really helps .
If you got the odd tooth missing , dont junk the blade . You can silver solder teeth on . Take them off a bigger sized blade , and cut them down after its mounted . I make all my own tool bits for my lathes , often with special purpose shanks . I even make carbide hole saws , any size , out of tubing . I use flux coated , 13% silver brazing rod , but you can use the wire silver as well. You can rough them down with a green stone on a bench grinder . You can buy packages of carbide inserts .
I have one of these HF sharpeners, and ran into the same problem with the spring dog, and tooth misalignment.
I ended up taking the dog off, and rotating the blade in the opposite direction, and manually aligning the saw tooth. I also tightened up the spring load clamp holding the blade down until I could barely turn it.
You need to check a blade closely and see if the face angle is the same for adjacent teeth. Knowing the tooth geometry before you start grinding on a blade is very important.
The other thing is, bolt/clamp down the thing. It will work much, much better.
It CAN save you some money, but what you save in price, you have to invest in making improvements to the thing.
Your comment was well written and articulate. Good English grammar skills.
@@meangreen7389 Thanks... I had an 8th grade English teacher who was hell on wheels. Other than loudly making sure we knew she was from St Louie, & NOT St Louis, she repeatedly shouted at us 'The primary purpose of the written word is communication. If you cannot write well, you cannot communicate.'
I guess it stuck...
@@georgedennison3338 It shows. 👍
Not wanting to sound critical ...but I notice as in your first blade dressing example that the vertical index stop is pushing against the grinding wheel cover, while the blade is being introduced into the dressing wheel... setup is 80%. Old Tech Instructor .
To be honest I think blade manufacturers would like this. The tool seems inconsistent in its cutting
It's all in the set up.
@@darkiee69 you can polish a turd, but it's still a turd.
@@BlockdAccount HAAAAAAA!
Right ! If you are home owner you'll just buy new ones because you won't be going through them like a carpenter, If you'er a contractor, then you add them on the price of job. No time to be sharpening.
What did you expect, it came from Harbor Freight. Don’t they sell tools by the pound?
I have one and have sharpened multiple blades of differing size. I totally ignore the ratchet arm (the frustrating part) and just move the blade into the diamond wheel by hand, rub it back and forth 4 times with equal pressure each time. All it can sharpen is the front of the tooth which is normally perpendicular to the blade. Won't sharpen the back of sides. Not a big problem. It will sharpen a very dull blade to the point of being usable. It will not do the job of a CNC blade sharpening service. That being said, I have sharpened my 10" Frued TS and MS blades a 12" MS blade and a 4.5" Skil flooring blade. Worth it to me, not garbage.
Thanks for the review.
I might get one of these. My hesitation is not about the cost, its about having another tool taking up space when I could MAYBE use my cut off tool and make a jig to hold the blade... maybe.
Just FYI, I think you were cutting too much tooth material because the lock dog wasn't set up right... or if you prefer... I could keep my unasked for opinions to myself!
Thanks again,
I have a blade sharpener and I go through a lot to set it up and use it but after watching your video I am going to go to my local harbor freight and get me one and try it and will get back to you on how I like it.I am a custom woodworker of furniture of all kinds, you name it i build it from scrach.thanks for the video.
Wayne from Townsend Delaware.
I usually run blades till the tips fall off or burn off. My chopsaw would love for me to purchase one of these 😝
Bet those burn marks on the wood look cool af
This is a great tool for the shop. Since I bought one 4 years ago, I have not bought another blade. I sharpen 8", 10" and 12" blades with it. Working on a jig which will sharpen bandsaw blades.
I see some saying this machine is total crap. You say its good. Guess its some dont really know how to use it because if it was really that bad then it would be bad for everyone
It would probably help if you at least clamp the thing to the table. Also you might get better with the setup after using it a few times.
That's why I returned the POS. Always need to adjust it. Some tips wear different and the grinding wheel will either not touch or will grind too far in.
The indexing pin needs to be set up so that it indexes directly on the teeth.
Agreed, the indexing pawl is not set up right. It might never be precise enough to use without adjusting each cut by hand. But what can we expect at that price. It probably would revitalize a lot of blades satisfactorily.
I think you should try flipping the blade over! By the way the spring loaded blade alignment piece is designed and the angle of the slot it goes into it move the pull handle to the left and flip the blade over. I would have tried it but it may be immediately obvious whether it will work or not!
Growing up back in the 60s & 70s we had a neighbour who mad a good living with a saw sharpening business in his garage. Hand and circular a chain saws. But by the 90s the disposable society put him out of business.
Shoe repair use to be a good trade too.
Dear friend, watching your video reveals that the index mechanism on the right side of the device is coming into contact with the cover of the grinding disc cover! It flexes to the right every time you move the grinding wheel forward and thus causing the problem of it not properly indexing and aligning ;-)
After using that tool, I have a new nickname, "3 Finger Jack". :-)
I've used one of these before, in fact I've used one that's much older and has to be done by hand, you're not actually supposed to bring the blade into the tooth, this is the reason why you have the play in the blade, you're supposed to turn the blade into the grinding stone which you're calling a blade. So you pass the tooth by about a 16th of an inch, then you pull the arm to bring the blade in to the cerf, then you push the blade into the stone. It's called a cutting Stone. You're very close, but your expectations are slightly off. I still give you a like for trying. Go to a blade sharpening store and ask the attendant how you're supposed to use that tool. I see after watching the video a little further, you caught on. Now you understand how it's actually supposed to work.
He needs to sharpen every other tooth, flip and repeat. They are set on angles to provide kerf.
I can't speak to that Ridgid blade, but the tooth faces on all my 10" and 12" DeWalt blades are set at 90° ... not angled. The teeth on my DeWalt dado stack are also set at 90°. Since the faces are perpendicular to the blade, they can all be sharpened in one set-up. The width of the carbide tips determines kerf width.
@@kennnva551 Must be why when my blade got junk on it, plastic, sap, whatever. I just put a sharp chisel on side of blade and hit the trigger and clean it off. Cuts good again.
The kerf width is set by the width of the cutters on carbide blades. What the opposing angles do is keep the cut from "drifting" sideways and making a curved or crooked cut. That way, each pass of a left cutter is compensated for by the immediate following of a right cutter.
I've been sharpening them by hand for many years! Didn't even know there was some tool for it. I suppose it would be a might faster, but sharpening your tools is the fun part!
Shouldn’t you have to go with the angle every other tooth then the other teeth the opposite angle on the other teeth ?
correct.. but that still doesn't fix a worn kerf, which is there for clearance and side surface contact area reduction. The validity of re-sharpening depends on first assessing the condition of the cutting edges. More times than none, it makes more sense to replace "simple" blades like these. I typically only re-sharpen drill bits (some) and lathe and Mill cutters.
Not on most blades, it is the top grind that varies on some blades, not the front face grind. I have used it on alternate bevel, rip and triple chip blades.
Ole Anderson thanks just asking.
@@oleanderson3693 Firstly his blade is already angled as you can see if you watched him set it up. Secondly, every single blade I own has alternating angles on the faces of the teeth.
the machine does the angles. i think he should have used it a few times before making the video. user errors are the most common reason for poor sharpening of any equipment. i can't count how many times I've seen people "sharpen" chainsaw blades that were pretty much destroyed by improper use of the machine
I've seen these saw blade sharpeners in different names, but they all seem like the exact same design and setup. I wonder why they had everything sitting on stilts instead of making it flat with solid platforms to hold the blade solid and still give a great results. I realize the motor has to have room to clear the casing and blade, but lowering everything as low as possible offers a more solid setup. Might have to design one for my usage and see how it works.
LOL.."It's too noisy out here" says the guy running loud power tools... Good Video, thanks
Haha
Don't matter where you live==People are People which means they are the Worst~!!
he is trying to make a video out there. have some understanding.
@@jimmyschmidt14 the neighborhood doesn't shut down because someone wants to make a video.
I mowed my lawn three times last week, and I'll mow it three times this week. Lol
You should also clean your blades. They can build up varnish, and not necessarily be dull. Simply cleaning the blade and teeth can do the trick.
This thing looks like garbage. You said, "man this is frustrating" way too many times for it to be useful for me. Save yourself some time and money by buying blades with better quality carbide. All of the blades you show buy bulk carbide from China. Diablo is the only company that makes their own. Also, all of those blades are stamped out with a press. That will cause the final product to have a lot more vibration, and as a result, burn up quicker. Diablo costs the same, if not less than those blades and every one of their blades are laser cut because of the higher quality steel they use. Save money by buying a quality blade to begin with.
Diablo blades kick serious ass. Their carbide metal cutting blades are the most impressive that I've ever seen - I was trying to find it's match and it cut through 3/8" 17-4 stainless solid bar with relative ease - that was shocking to me. I'll normally use the bandsaw for that, but it was fast and CLEAN.
You're spot on - DeWilt, milfuckee and other big box blades are all the same crap.
Diablo blades are my go to , hands down.
My DeWALT blades always last longer than the Diablo blades.
Brent Roberts . Diablo is not the company name. Freud is
@@2checkchki Diablo is the commercial line. Freud is the industrial line.
My dad used to sharpen blades. I distinctly remember he would sharpen every other tooth, then turn the blade over and sharpen the other teeth, because teeth on a saw blade bevel out in an alternating pattern to keep the cut material from building up and making the blade get hot.
Depends on the blade. Tooth configuration varies depending on application
@@nzer57 so what blade has all the teeth beveled to the same side, because I have been carpentering for 45 years and I've never seen one. I'll admit I haven't seen it all, but not one in 45 years must make them somewhat rare...no?
So having been trained in saw sharpening, you likely need to do every other tooth paying attention to the actual angle and then switch the angle to sharpen the opposite angle teeth!
Exactly...
Love all these comments denying it works when he literally cut through the wood like butter after sharpening. Is it perfect? No, but it works.
Pretty cool tool but the first thing I do before I would even attempt to sharpen any saw blades is clean it. Many saw blades get built up with dried sap, resin and wood glues that will appear to dull the blade when all you needed to do is clean it properly. I use a top of a 5 gallon HD bucket and the blades sit in there perfectly,. I then soak it in either some blade cleaner or I use Simple Green. let it soak, then scrub it with a brass wire brush, dry it off and test it. If it's still dull, then yes you could go ahead and try to sharpen it. But I agree with KOTC, if it's still dull after cleaning, I'll just replace it since this is very time consuming. Cheers!
Haha like King said, sounds like a lot of work lol. I'll give it a shot and see if it works. Simple green is some good stuff. Thanks for the comment William!
Like someone else said..."Find the right angle of every other blade tip and sharpen on slightly different angles for each other tip"
Then pull the tooth out of the way of the grinding wheel, pull the handle back to put the grinding wheel into the notch in front of the tooth to be grinded, then release the blade to let the tooth spring load into the grinding wheel. Grind the tooth only enough to make the tooth flat, edges sharp and point too at the right angle. Try to keep the grinding duration the same as not to remove different amounts of metal from each tooth...Be consistent.
If you take a closer look every other tooth on the blade has a different angle, so what you are doing here is wrong.
You should set the bevel one way, do every other tooth and re adjust the bevel the other way and do the skipped teeth.
Also when you pull on the handle, your wheel guard is pushing against the lock pin.
Good video
Just like sharpening a chainsaw chain.
Was thinking that myself, then I saw your note further down. 😱
ABSOLUTELY! I was thinking to myself how that first rip blade would be perfect for cutting banana shapes lol.
I added a large aluminum 90 degree sled (angle aluminum) to this tool and now sharpen bandsaw blades on it.
This is not the way to sharpen the saw blade, every other tooth has opposite angle
Pawel Petrych He didn’t know how to set it up properly.
Pawel Petrych not every blade is set that way, some are set as chisel cuts
Tony Bickley 👍
Pawel Petrych also the sides of carbide blades wear out.
I think opposite angle are only on top of the tooth, fronts are same way
I just watched your video on the harbor freight saw blade sharpener. A tip that you can use that will prolong the life of your blade, is use a non-toxic oven cleaner spray to remove the pitch off the sides of your blade. Most of the time that will stop any burning and your blade will almost be like new. Just passing it on man.
Surely you should be sharpening every second tooth before turning the blade over and repeating the process?
Yea I was wondering how he would sharpen a triple chip blade with this.
thomas 971 yeah so many things could have been done better, he wrecked the chisel point on so many of those teeth 😂 I feel the tool in the right persons hands may produce a lot better results even though it’s a cheap piece of crap
Michael Grace yeah I did see I was being polite, some people aren’t too sharp
cool tool good for recycling and cost effective for DIY users who leave tools unused for long periods
The Blade Butcher by Hazard Fraught. Before you throw your blades out make SURE they are ruined completely.
My muscle memory is much more accurate than this disaster. Your comment is right on.
I use a mt2 holder in my Bridgeport but anything just to hold it horizontal. Mark it with felt pen, take air grinder with fine blade at 40lbs of air and start touching, doesn't take long
I usually replace my saw blades when I notice that the shop is filled with smoke, not saw dust, from the burning wood.
It looks like a bushing needs to be installed on the center of the blade to keep it centered with the bolt on the bracket. So when your turning the blade to the next tooth it will stay exactly centered
I use my " cut-off wheel " and sharpen them by hand but I must admit having everything stable would be cleaner. Maybe remake some of the machines cheaper parts .
Please get them sharpened at a actual company and not just reface them, my company does the od along with facing and you get about 10 more sharpening with them, but if insist on doing it yourself do it with a diamond grinding wheel and some type of lubricant even if it’s pouring water on it you’ll get a much cleaner grind than a cut off wheel
Definitely worth the cost!
You act like you are the first to ever discover a blade sharpener well they have been around for many years
Diamond blade for carbide teeth
You should look more closely at a "new/good" blade every other tooth is cutting the same side, tapering down and away from the highest point, alternating like a chainsaw chain. Good blades are easy to keep sharp. Buy blades with more teeth. Each tooth takes less material and therefore less wear, also try letting your saw get up to full speed before yanking it through the board. Let it chew it's way through the board, slowly, this will prevent too big of a bite with each cut of the tooth. Thereby reducing heat buildup. Simple good shop maintenance and good sharp tools will go a long way to making your projects faster and less stressful.
Taff Daddy there are many different types of grinds for blades not all are ATB. More teeth also doesn’t mean a blade is going to last longer. Using the proper rip or crosscut blade is going to help longevity more than anything
I think it would work much better if you follow more closely the angles of the existing teeth and try to recreate the same. Every other tooth is the opposite angle of the one next to it. Of course it cuts because the teeth have an edge after you grind it back a little but the edge is sqware so it is pushing and not clearing the chips effectively, so it needs an angle to achieve this. The blade will track a straight line better and cut the edges neater with less heat too.
Thanks for vid. 👍
Nice video. Two tips, first get yourself some really strong ammonia (it is great for removing the pitch on the blade) to clean the blade. Makes a world of difference in how much forward pressure you need when cutting. Second, some blades alternate angles every other tooth which makes the kerf slightly wider which also reduced drag when sawing.
Diesel fuel works as well, so does simple green.
I install a diamond grit 10 inch blade on my table saw and mount the dull blade on a jig and sharpen the old blades. It works great.
My local guy charges 25 cents/tooth. Its worth it for my finish blades, especially when it comes to preserving the bevel.