Best Metal Cutting Blade? “Dry Cut” vs “Abrasive” vs “Diamond" Blade. Diablo, DeWalt, Makita
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- 10 Blades: Dry Cut vs Abrasive vs Diamond Chop Saw Blades, DeWalt, Makita, Oshlun, Evolution, Lenox Diamond, Diablo, Irwin, WEN, and SATC. Blades tested for performance and durability cutting through mild, medium, and very hard steel. I purchased all of the blades and the Evolution chop saw to ensure unbiased reviews. Thanks for supporting the channel!
➡ Thank you for supporting the channel through memberships:
/ @projectfarm
➡ Thank you very much for supporting the channel through Patreon: / projectfarm
➡ An easy way to find past videos along with products tested: bit.ly/2FCrBpk A big thanks to Jim for putting this together.
➡ Merch: project-farm.com
➡ Click here if you'd like to subscribe: / @projectfarm
➡ As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
➡ Products Tested In This Video (in no particular order):
Irwin: amzn.to/37mSyvC
Diablo: amzn.to/3uOulr5
WEN: amzn.to/3M9Jfhd
DeWalt: amzn.to/3EoABJm
Makita: amzn.to/3OexYy5
Evolution: amzn.to/3uN5ILe
Oshlun: amzn.to/37tE39c
SATC: amzn.to/3xyxv40
Lenox (Diamond): amzn.to/3EjWPMp
DeWalt (Aluminum Oxide): amzn.to/3uMRkma
Evolution S380CPS Metal Cutting Chop Saw: amzn.to/37rLdun
Videography Equipment:
Sony DSC-RX10 III Cyber-shot Digital Still Camera: amzn.to/2YdXvPw
Canon 70D Camera: amzn.to/31b5Gy0
Azden Microphone: amzn.to/34d3DLE
Go Pro Bundle: amzn.to/3Ca0ZVN
This video is only for entertainment purposes. If you rely on the information portrayed in this video, you assume the responsibility for the results. Project Farm LLC
Here’s the list of products reviewed. More details in the video description. Thank you!
Irwin: amzn.to/37mSyvC
Diablo: amzn.to/3uOulr5
WEN: amzn.to/3M9Jfhd
DeWalt: amzn.to/3EoABJm
Makita: amzn.to/3OexYy5
Evolution: amzn.to/3uN5ILe
Oshlun: amzn.to/37tE39c
SATC: amzn.to/3xyxv40
Lenox (Diamond): amzn.to/3EjWPMp
DeWalt (Aluminum Oxide): amzn.to/3uMRkma
Re-cutting the angle iron after each of the harder metals to show how much damage the blades had sustained, was pure genius. I also like that you show the particulit count during cutting. 👍
Thanks!
@@ProjectFarm I just made a similar comment in another thread and this is a great thing you do in your tests. You consider durability.
I'm an engineer in the process of getting my own shop set up. And value for money is VERY HIGH on my priority list. I haven't yet decided on a power saw for cutting down stock bars. I'm even considering making one, like a power hacksaw because it can be made from a windscreen wiper mechanism. But no matter what I do I'd need blades and blades cost money.
So for someone like me, who doesn't need speed but needs DURABILITY these tests are quite valuable.
For me the Diablo wins just slightly ahead of the Irwin, not because its speed (which is in the middle) but because it (like the Irwin) handled "abuse" better than the others. My bet is some of the other blades would be fantastic in both speed and durability if they were kept to the EXACT metal types they are designed for.
Great test.
If you are looking for suggestions.
1) Portable power BAND saws like the Milwaukee M18FBS, Makita DBP and Dewalt DCS.
Yeah I know they are pricey but maybe a couple of the suppliers might want to see a head to head.
And yeah making a test rig might be a bit of a hassle but I can help with concepts.
2) Sabre (reciprocating) saw blades.
Yeah I know you could do a dozen videos on the different blades available.
3) Small diameter circular saws (blades
Cutting wax would have been nice.
I agree. He often made subjective statements about damage in the past but showing the results in a fairly repeatable test takes it to the next level.
With random punctuation and creative misspellings, I know you’re a legit. ✊🏻
What I love the most about your videos is, you get straight to the point and dont try to fluff the length of the video, this is the quality content I appreciate.
Thank you!
At eighteen minutes, there is no need to fluff tbh
The #1 Fastest WINNER IS OLSHUN !
#2 Looser IS MAKITA !
But funny how he choose the 46% Slower makita... But I guess MONEY TALKS... How much did they pay him to say that??
You are the best, most thorough, no BS, objective independent testing channel ever. I appreciate your dedication and detail. Keep up the good work. You help us all work more efficiently and save us time, heartache, and money.
Thanks!
Uhh, no this metal cutting is not regulating the speed and feed so its just a joke. Slowing down the speed and applying more pressure is probably going to result in much better performance. If you can't see chips coming off your doing it wrong.
If only we had a cable news station as informative, factual and unbiased
@@timburke3096 ok tim 🤓
@@lostmywilltol1ve Yep! there is always one.
Two things you may also consider. When I'm cutting metal i'm not concerned about how many seconds it takes to cut, and I always assume I'll have to deburr or dress the cut edges of the metal. What I'm concerned about most is if the cutting wheel will become damaged and how long a wheel will last over time.
Thanks for the feedback.
He kinda answered it with how many cuts of different metals the blades did and commenting on chipping
keep in mind people want to know these details when they work in high production shop environments too. for them cut speed could matter a lot.
@@GoalOrientedLifting 100%. Watch to the end; the last segment is genius; revisits the cut time after intentionally damaging the blades with high-carbon steel. One of the most thorough videos I've ever seen on RUclips.
These blades dont last. After a few cuts they are useless. Nothing beats a cold saw for cutting metal, unfortunately they are very expensive. Next best option is abrasive cut off disc, but they create a lot of dust.
I recently bought an Evolution saw like yours and it transformed my hobbying life overnight. Therefore, I was especially interested in how the Evolution blade held up against the others. Thank you very much for providing useful, real-world data that I can use when my current blade loses it's efficiency. As others have commented below, the revisiting of the angle-iron cut for time comparisons was a brilliant idea!
Nice! You are welcome!
@@ProjectFarm I was wondering if you, like myself, tended to get hair-thin shards of metal puncturing your fingertips when working with metal only to be dug out with tweezers and needles at the end of the day? I struggle to find gloves that are impervious yet still flexible enough to give good hand-to-work feedback. Would such a quest be a suitable topic for one of your videos? Thanks
@@drd9784 I use the rubber coated waterproof type gloves for that same reason and they have been great but make my hands very hot and need to take them off quite a bit for relief, but then again it's been over 100 degrees in Texas for the last month. I had the palm only type but got shards on the top of my hand when using a lathe, so I got the full dipped version.
@@AbnormalAxis Thanks Jake I'll give them a go 👍
@@AbnormalAxis you are a maniac using gloves with a lathe.
I like the new additions to the video: showing where on the graph your recommended blades stand, as well as suggesting other tools to use instead of the blades. I also like the data on the sound and particles. You can never have too much data!
Thank you for the feedback!
I've used these quite often, and most blades like more pressure than what you've given.
The upper range blades are very impressive though even under lighter load!
Thanks for the testing; you're the tradesman's hero. ❤️
Great feedback and thank you!
You need to find the sweet spot
I have an Evolution saw and you can't put much pressure on it or it drastically slows down.
Milwaukee makes a great chop saw
usually these are on a $30 chop saw with the handled re-welded to 5' long so the little chinese guy can dangle his bodyweight off it while the saw is cutting
Been running a Diablo blade in my Milwaukee dry cut saw for years now. I don't do that much fabrication but just about everything I do is on 1/4" thick or more mild steel. So far there's no visible damage to any teeth and it still cuts fast and cold, after dozens of cuts. I have a Dewalt blade as a backup but so far it just sits in the package collecting dust. Blade longevity seems to be all about good fixturing and smooth firm pressure on the saw. Any bouncing will coat teeth, but once you understand that the blades seem to last a very long time.
Thanks for sharing.
I think the abrasive wheels have their own saws that run at higher RPMs, so it makes sense they performed poorly.
ye, higher speeds. The lower speed you go, the more they self destruct while cutting. If you go to their absolute max, you get highest life out of them, fastest cuts, but also most chance of dying to them exploding!
True. Abrasive cutting wheels are supposed to run at max. 80m/s, for a 14" blade that means 4300rpm - which is exactly what Dewalt specifies.
This saw does 1450rpm.
Thanks for the feedback.
D Hristov that’s so true. I read about a foreman of a crew so he had experience, went to cut something steel off a truck. He had a 7” hand held grinder and his safety glasses but no full face shield. The blade blew up while cutting and a piece got him in the neck deep enough to cut into the carotid artery. This was in the section of a safety magazine made by the gov’t for tradesmen, called *Fatalities*. He didn’t suffer very long, it was that fast. Said he was a father with 2 young kids. The conclusion was always wear a full face shield that is long enough to cover your throat plus safety glasses as well. I watched the faces of the guys in the coffee room as they read it. He died in our city and as tradesmen we all stuck to that advice in the conclusion.
@@14goldmedals Had a close call, prevented by a face shield (impact-rated welding helmet, actually). I was kind of a newbie, cutting mild steel, and I accidentally exploded a grinding wheel. Probably half the wheel hit my face shield and bounced off... if that'd hit my face I probably wouldn't have a nose anymore...
Another time, again when I was still a newbie, I exploded another grinding wheel and had a piece bounce down inside my face shield and bounce off my safety glasses.
I was VERY glad I was wearing proper PPE. Always, always, always wear your safety gear - takes very little effort to do, and it just might save your life (or your face).
You should have given the Oshlun more love! For a "mid" to higher price range, it was one of the most impressive blades to me. LOVE the new grouping format to show why you made your choices though!
Great point!
I thought the Oshlun was also going to be the top blade.
I agree, i was just going to post the same thing. Itwas always placed in the top few, was lower priced and cut well 👍
@@ProjectFarm Agreed with the others on this one. Oshlun performed well in many of the tests and ended up being the fastest after all the abuse. It withstood more damage compared to the more expensive blades and also had a clean cut every time.
That's the one I would spend my money on.
These comparisons are vital when someone needs good equipment and there is a bewildering variety from which to choose. Well done dude...
Thanks!
As usual, great job testing these blades! My only criticism is that you used an abrasive chop saw wheel in a saw made for metal blades. The metal blade saw is only good for around 1400rpm, while a lot of abrasive wheel saws are meant for around 4000rpm.
Still, the metal blades are clearly superior
Same goes for the lenox diamond blade. it's meant to replace the normal abrasive wheels 1 for one in their application. So that should also spin around that 3-4000 RPM
@@boomerangfreak have you tried diamond in higher rpm regular chop saw?
@@jamesrussell6870I have used a carbide blade to cut steel in a high speed saw It destroys the teeth if you run them too fast. dont do it.
@@jamesrussell6870 I have the Lenox blade on my Porter Cable chop saw. It cuts better than an abrsave blade but still leaves a pretty good sized burr.
@@boomerangfreak meant to replace them, but they're loud, slow and utterly useless in smaller wheel sizes.
I'd rather stick with Pferd abrasives than touch a Lenox wheel again. Cleaner dfadter cuts, only takes a few seconds to do the odd disc swap
Just rewatched…still such an impressive video. Your work is superior to some “professional” evaluation videos! SO we’ll done. Thanks for ALL the time, energy and great videography!
"High Densrty" made in China. No kidding lol.
lol. Thanks!
😂
Haha lol
Velly High Quarity!
That reminds me of a new type of screwdriver I saw at a local store. They are made in Asia, in a country that is communist, so the name really fits. They meant to say that they were magnetic, but the new type that they introduced is "machetic." If ya can't get the screws out in the conventional manner, simply chop the head off of the screw with this type, and start over. 🙄
Anyone else watch this to sleep 😂
You caught me haggaah
Hopefully not while using any of these tools …
@@dougjb7848there was druggie working in the weld shop with me and he’d be nodding off while using a grinder😂😂idk how he didn’t hurt himself. He lasted about three weeks before getting fired
Almost every day
Not intentionally, but since I’m forced to replay the videos it does increase his play count. Maybe it’s intentional?
One thing we found is that we use 12" Diablo steel demon blades instead of 14"....about $30 less per blade, and the sfm actually goes down with the smaller blade, so possibly runs cooler than a 14"
Thanks for sharing.
Impossible
@@robertfandel9442 please explain...
12" saws are just better anyway, you don't need the capacity of the 14" blade. Sure you can cut 4" square tubing with them but it's not really what they're for. A 12" blade will have less deflection meaning more accurate cuts, and like you said the SFM guess down with the smaller diameter so they last longer.
@@lunchboxproductions1183 'you don't need the capacity of the 14" blade'
"We only really need 100 miles EV range".
It really depends what you're using that blade for doesn't it?
I'm the only one who doesn't use or need these tools but still watches the videos?
Happy Easter everyone
I live in a small condo but still watch.
Thanks for watching and Happy Easter!
🐇 Thanks, Happy Easter! 😎✌🏼
The Abrasive wheels, [DeWalt and Lennox] are really designed to be more efficient at over 5,000 rpm's , so comparing them to the slower speed running toothed blades is a little deceptive. overall a good comparison.
I agree with you
At low speeds - even wood saws cut through steel
I prefer Abrasive wheel
I made the mistake of running an abrasive wheel on a low rpm cut off saw and it wears the abrasive prematurely. It also damages the blade by wearing it unevenly and throwing off the balance making it unsafe.
@@ammo021 thanks for sharing that information....even a wood cutting saw at 3500 plus rpm does not preform well with abrasive wheels...we had a 5hp 16" abrasive saw that could cut a 1" round solid bar in 1.5 seconds, not held in a vice either.....I cut a lot of material on that old gal......when it comes to 3/16 and 1/4 stainless , I use an abrasive saw and not a carbide slow speed chop saw, the blade life is to little when cutting stainless, even with the stainless blade, I have an Evolution 15 inch, and also a Dake 14 inch coolant saw that runs 80 rpm with high speed steel blades, but for fast cutting, and safe cutting, the abrasive is the tool to go to for me.....thin wall square tubing 14 and 11 gauge gets cut by band saw. with out coolant, as the Ellis uses rubber tires and can't use coolant, only air.....
This channel has quickly become a must watch for DIY'ers everywhere! I watch a ton of RUclips videos and this channel ranks as a top 3 of all time! Keep up the great work in making all our lives easier!!!
Thanks, will do!
I love your testing videos, it really shows that you put a lot of serious consideration of how to fairly and tortuously test everything you do. Great work. A true perfectionist at quality control testing products!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Nice thorough test! Really enjoyed the retests on the angle iron after abusing the blades.
Each type has it's uses. You wouldn't exactly use a premium blade to cut up thousands of rebar on a jobsite :)
Thanks!
The best for metal is the regular grind blade, just buy a bunch and wear them down until you can’t use, blades for steel is plain stupid it’s only good for aluminium
@@Radbot776 That's certainly an opinion.
If you have thousands of cuts and live in a country with high labor rates, it doesn't hold up.
If you're cutting material which is metallurgically sensitive to heat, they're a terrible decision.
@@pinpetos if you had heat sensitive materials, they'd be cut under coolant under a band setup optimized for cutting time over heat. So your argument is fucking irrelevant.
@@pinpetos also wtf do "high labor rates" have to do with using abrasive cutting wheels vs blades? The cutoff wheels cut far faster, take 30s to replace - less time than you're losing on every single cut you make with these shitty toothed blades.
I really like the small partial count. Every time I use my angle grinder I always end up with black boogers even when only cutting for a few minutes or less.
Isn’t that the truth brother! Huck a loogie onto the snow on the ground and it’s black. The new guy looks on in terror lol
Thanks for the feedback.
After 40 years everytime I cough up comes black.
I am sure lung disease will be my exit.
Use a p100 respirator for any grinding or welding
It never ceases to amaze me how distinct the diminishing returns are beyond a given proce point. Sure the makita is faster than the diablo...but it enough faster to be worth double the price?
And the Irwin blade really suprised me.
One of your best videos yet! I really appreciated the inclusion of air quality / particle count data and delta-T on the 4140. Would have liked to have seen results on stainless, as many blades marketed for stainless cutting are very expensive and I wonder if they're actually superior (Champion and Evolution-brand blades come to mind).
Awesome, thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
@jt354 in my experience non of these "dry cut" blades handles stainless very well. Regardless if they are marketed as such. Blade is dull in no time
I like Diablo blades. They always seemed to be up to the task, while still being (what I consider) a decent price. Thanks for the great test.
Great point!
the Amazon link shows the Irwin at twice the price
I’ve used them on circular saws and they seem to hold up pretty good. Almost everything else in its price range is made in China. I’d rather support the Italians.
They usually are just a good bet for anything cutting related if you just need to buy a blade without research. Often not the very best, but rarely have I seen any diablo products I have been disappointed in.
I always love the Diablo blades .. I use them to cut up all types of metal . Reciprocating saw and side grinder
I like the close-up shots of the blade teeth, and I also like that you increase the demands on the blades, and then go back and cut regular steel again for a comparison.
I feel like the abrasive wheel is still a great option in many cases. It passed all the tests and only cost $8. Given how much wear each blade received, the price should be a huge factor since these things are supposed to be disposable. The expensive blades are probably more for specialty uses.
They're dirty, though... Don't want that crap in the air. Good to keep a couple around for tough cuts, though.
Chop saw with abrasive wheel is definitely my go to setup, it just works and the price is right.
Thanks for the feedback.
I think it depends on what youre using it for. I work in the Coal Seam Gas Industry and we are often replacing waterlines on wellsites that are made from 2" Schedule 160 pipe (around 10mm wall). We might do 15 cuts in a day. An abrasive might take 1-2 blades to do this and gets significantly slower as it gets smaller. You also heat the pipe alot and mess with the temper of it, causing it to thread poorly. And being on a Remote location creates a significant fire hazard. The carbide saw cuts in about 10 seconds per cut, Is dead square and required basically no deburring. The chips are relatively cool and We can do upwards of 3-500 cuts per blade. At 12x the price of an abrasive can very much be worth it. Not to mention being less fragile and the saved time changing blades. For a home user. Abrasive may be the way. For a poweruser - Carbide all the way.
@@thaneirwin4688 Agreed abrasives are only good for hard steel that would otherwise damage a carbide or cermet blade. For example if you had to cut a drill bit or grade 8 bolt. Otherwise a toothed bit rules in accuracy, life and speed.
You are saving me time and money, and educating me at the same time. Thanks from Canada.
Greetings and thank you!
I love this channel and it is my go-to very often when deciding what to purchase. Very well done! I came to this site with intentions of purchasing a chop saw and blade in the near future and this was most helpful. But I would like to caution one thing not directly addressed here and that is the maximum RPM rating for these blades which can be seen when he shows the face of each blade to be in the 1600-1800 RPM range. The Evolution saw used for testing in this video runs at 1450 RPM as stated by the manufacturer. But, many chop saws on the market run considerably faster up into 4000+RPM range. This may be appropriate for the hard rock type blades that are supplied with those saws, but not for these steel type blades shown here. Be prudent with choices and observe proper safety warnings. Match the blade to the tool appropriately. Thanks again for the great tests you do!
Thanks and you are welcome!
I'm always super excited when I see a new video is released, the amount of careful tedious repetitions he composes into short entertaining videos is amazing, we get to see very little of the effort he puts into these let alone the editing.
Thanks!
Can you film a video about different automotive sealants and how they hold up to diesel, motoroil, gasoline and coolant and how flexible they are? As a mechanic this is a very interesting question, everybody swears by some different product.
Thanks for the suggestion.
No sense adding what has been already stated some five thousand times in the comments, but sir, your videos are very succinct and direct. Well done as per usual. Cheers!!
Thanks so much!
Fun fact the A.R. in a.r. plate stands for abrasion resistant. It is used in armor application by the military and others but also in buckets for constuction trucks and other stuff.
Thank you for the awesome video as always! Some video ideas are, pancake air compressors, wire cutters and crimpers more specifically, voltage meters, heat guns! Just things I’ve needed for a project recently and had no solid reviews anywhere!
You are welcome! Thanks or the video ideas!
I guess it really depends on the overall application, but I would figure the IRWIN & OSHLUN came out on top. Especially if you consider cost as an important factor. Ultimately more usage/base-material testing will give a clearer result (unless your need is for immediate performance with little overall use).
Despite some of my technical issues with your videos (which are very few), I must say--
Excellent work, as always, Sir!
Thanks so much!
The AR-400 was good enough to test endurance roughly. He isnt going to cut 300 times with a blade.
The #1 Fastest WINNER IS OLSHUN !
#2 Looser IS MAKITA !
The MAKITA is 46% Slower!
I had suggested this video probably a year ago and never checked to see if you had done it. I am pleasantly surprised at the outcome. Thanks for doing the work!
You are welcome!
Been watching your videos for over 4 years now. Absolutely love them. I was surprised you didn't use the thermal camera for checking the temperatures of the metal, but maybe there was a reason for it. Still great video. Would still love to see arc welders in a showdown.
Thanks! Thanks for the video idea.
Extremely informative and excellent methodology, as usual. Outstanding video, Todd thank you and Happy Easter to the Project Farm family!
Thanks and you are welcome! Happy Easter!
My experience long-term is the Evo blade that came with my Evo saw is a good blade, it doesn't last as long as the Diablo though. Still have an abrasive for hardened steel is a good idea.
Glad I have the Diablo now and has confirmed that it may not be the fastest but it seems like it's going to take the most abuse for a carbide blade at an affordable price range
Thanks for the feedback.
This makes me feel good that the Diablo steel blade I just bought for my circular saw to cut some unistrut finished in your top 3.
Thanks for sharing.
I was pulling for the WEN. I've had good results with that brand punching well above the price point. Apparently this isn't one of the better examples. However, if you're buying a blade for a single project with only mild steel or nonferrous metal I suppose it would be a reasonable choice.
Thanks for sharing.
WEN started out strong then faltered. Like you, I had high hopes for it.
After this test I would actually buy the WEN. I would have cut harder steel with an angle grinder and thin cut off disc anyway. And for softer steel and all other metals the WEN seems quite usable for the price (for someone who's job isn't cutting steel on a daily basis).
Whatever you do, don't buy the WEN drywall sander. I ignored the load of negative reviews (all talked about the pad not being flat), figuring it could not be possible. Sure enough, my experience was the same. Bouncing, skipping, destroying the wall. Ended up with Festool Planex 2.0.
Holy cow! That's got to have been one of the most expensive videos I've seen. Fantastic work, and lots of great information. Highly underrated channel, even with 2.37M subscribers.
Thanks and you are welcome!
This is probably the best and most informative video I have ever seen on RUclips,😀🤗
Wow, thanks!
Another bunch bites the dust! THANKS, Commander! I only recently even got a metal cutter for my 3 inch DeWalt so this leaves me in the dust sure enough. I've always just used a grinding wheel to score the piece and then frailed it to the breaking point with the hammer of the day. The cut off discs really surprised me on their true cutting and with the ease they do it and there are discs made for cutting all sorts of stuff. I've got an old Makita compound miter saw that was worn out when I got it and it's a wood eater only. I can get by with the DeWalt but I know where torches are if I have to go heavy duty. Thanks for a wonderful test, be BLEDSSED and Jesus is up and active! GBWYall!
Hi Lewie, Thank you very much! It's sort of painful to practically destroy so many fine blades all at one but it's important testing that'll hopefully help people select the product that's best for their needs. Great point on reaching for the torch when needed! Always great to hear from you, Happy Easter, and wishing Yall many BLESSINGS!!!
Just so you know, technically the regular kind of tungsten carbide you use for cutting is also a cermet.
Thanks for the feedback.
as usual marketing. What it really boils down to is the material being correctly made and not polluted or poorly mixed. A lot of these companies have budget metallurgy and sell you stuff that is, "Technically", the stuff, and others over-advertise the technology as if they are the only ones doing it. Marketing wank while they sell you inferior stuff to what the industries have access to.. Store drill bits snap at 1-4kg of pressure, industrial ones can take all 100+kg before they explode violently..
In machining contexts 'cermet' usually implies a different ceramic from tungsten carbide, e.g. titanium carbide (note that
most 'tungsten carbide' contains stuff like this as an additive). Cermet tools are considered to be more brittle (less able to handle interrupted cuts and general abuse) but more tolerant of high cutting speeds that cause a lot of heat buildup.
@@nerd1000ify I agree. But I was thinking in marketing context words tend to mean whatever you can get away with.
Thanks for doing these tests and reviews, they definitely save a lot of people a whole lot of money and time! Gob bless you and happy Easter!
Thank you and Happy Easter!
Thanks! I seriously can't go buy a tool until I've seen your unbiased comparisons. Can you compare the 5 3/8 and/or the 5 7/8 metal cutting circular saw blades that are getting more popular sometime in the future? Milwaukee, Makita, Diablo, Oshlun, and I think I've seen a Hercules brand come out with them so far. ✌️😁
Thanks for the suggestion. Thanks for supporting the channel! I really appreciate it!
I'm barely any DIY specialist, but seeing videos like this makes me think about having my own shop to tinker inside of. Diablo seemed like a good balance between durability and affordability.
Thanks for sharing!
Easter Sunday is starting out great. Thanks!
Thank you very much!
Recently used two of the Diablo brand blade to cut 6700ft of 2.875 OD N80 upset tubing (0.217 wall 4140 that’s heat treated) into 8ft posts. 837 cuts. Using air blast cooling helped significantly though.
Thanks for sharing.
I'm old when I first used a metal chop saw was in the 1980s
It had a abrasive wheel and was scary.
I was told to stand as far off to the left as possible because there was more safety guard on the left side .
There were a lot of holes in the wall behind the saw from blades exploding.
It never exploded on me but I only used it to cut airoquip lines .
I used a torch to cut everything else .
.
Thank you!
That's a new one, exploding blades. I suppose it is possible
@@J-1410 No that was a abrasive wheel that exploded they get too hot the adhesive let's go.
My concern with blades is the carbide teeth letting go. It happens often in sawmills where they saw lumber. I worked in a mll and they tried not to by timber cut from small properties or farms specifically for fear of hitting nails an sendi teeth flying. They heavily discounted the price they'd pay for the timber . Now larger mills x-ray logs before cutting them . Saw blades fail all the time my point was about safety . I personally think the diamond impregnated wheel would be the safest from throwing chunks like a grenade
We use these blades for our steel stud work. Good review, we already buy the top ones from our supplier. mostly the Diablo and Dewalt abrasive but we have purchased several brands previously. I personally prefer the Diamond because the longevity. It will out last ALL others... (We make 1000's of cuts a day) In our work the things like heat, debris, noise and speed of cut aren't relevant when compared to longevity/cost.
Thanks for sharing.
Out of all the saw blade comparisons, I’ve learned Makita is making some pretty good blades.I have the 7 inch Diablo blade and it’s worked great so far. I was floored some time back when I learned there were circular saw blades that would cut steel like butter. They’re really great tools to have in the Arsenal!
Thanks for sharing.
The #1 Fastest WINNER IS OLSHUN !
#2 Looser IS MAKITA !
It's funny how he choose the 46% Slower makita...
So a long time ago, I wanted to cut open some free refrigerator pumps that I had found, because I wanted to make an air compressor. My parents didn't buy me an air compressor, and the thought of buying one somehow never crossed my mind. So I'm not sure why, but I took my Makita worm drive circular saw with a 7 1/4" carbide tooth framing blade on it, and I ended up cutting open a solid steel refrigerator pump casing, that was almost 1/8th inch thick steel. The framing blade cut through the steel like butter. That was long before anyone talked about using carbide tipped saw blades for steel. I think it was my neighbors grandpa who gave me the idea, because I'm sure I didn't think of it on my own. To sum up the story, I ruined EVERY wood blade I had by the time I finished cutting open 4 refrigerator pumps. The carbide at that time was only C2 or C3 carbide. But, it would have been a nightmare with a grinding disc, because of how thick the metal was, and how much heat and sparks would have been created. The pumps are filled with oil too, so there is an oily residue on everything.
@@jameschupp2230he chose it cause it's better
I just purchased a 14" dry cut chop saw, as I needed it for cutting some steel SGB rails. While picking up the saw, I went ahead and purchased the Diablo Steel demon. Awesome video. And it looks like I made a great choice. I use the Diablo 96t 12" aluminum cutting blade on my Rigid chop saw for cutting 6061 Aluminum Extrusion, and I've had great results with that blade, which is why I opted for the Diablo Steel Demon blade for the dry cut saw. Thanks for the very informative video!
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
Your testing is impeccable,sir! Extremely thorough and smart!
Thanks so much!
Great content! Would love to see a 12" miter saw blade comparison. This was awesome!
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
Good video, I like how Todd used this video as an excuse to buy a new chop saw LOL and make it a tax write off hahaha. Keep up the good work
I know this is over 1 year old PF, but I just wanted to let you know something. I'm sure there are many others, but I find myself checking for a Project Farm test before I replace any power tool or accessory for use around my shop or farm. Thank you. In most cases it pays to buy the best, but the best isn't always the most expensive. You have proven that numerous times.
Thanks for sharing!
Love your videos sir! Thank you for everything you do. God bless & keep you!
Thank you very much! This means a lot to me, and I wish you many Blessings too!
Oshlun withstood the most abuse, was super fast for all the cuts and second quietest.
There is a massive difference in noise between 103 and 105 much less the 108-115 that the other blades were. That alone would make me pick the Diablo second.
Makita or Irwin would be my third choice.
Thanks fr the feedback.
@@ProjectFarm I'm curious what you think about my conclusion.
@@zacharymorris9917 they are all to loud to use without hearing protection, so I wouldn’t think noise is an important consideration.
@@mikelloyd2013 having used these types of blades before I can tell you it's not that simple. Some of them are loud with ear plugs. Some are loud with ear plugs AND muffs on top.
The difference between 103-105 is arguable. 103 is technically below the threshold for intermittent use without hearing protection. 105 is barely under the pain threshold.
108+ and the entire shop needs hearing protection. 115+ and even the office folks needing to use the phone would have to go outside.
If you drop the "10" off of the decibel levels the numbers make more sense. Think of it as 3-5 vs 8-15. These are huge differences. 115 is SIXTEEN times more sound pressure than 103. If it was a linear comparison it would be 103 vs 1648.
@@zacharymorris9917 no doubt you are right. I only have experience with the evolution blades in recent times. I’m sure I had used several other brands before I bought my current saw, but I don’t recall much difference in noise levels. I had never heard of the Oslun brand before I saw this video, I may have to try one. In your opinion, was the project farm test fair? It seems to me that while using the same down pressure for all blades eliminates human error, do all blades require the same down pressure? For instance, does an eighty tooth blade require the same down pressure as a sixty tooth blade? I would think not. And an abrasive blade is a far different machine than a carbide blade, so they need different pressures. I’m not sure I have developed the correct “feel” for cutting with carbine blades, but I get decent blade life so I think I’m on the right track.
Nice video. I am a welder/millwright so I do a lot of this kind of thing. One thing, as a young millwright I was scolded by a machinist for standing 1/4" steel on edge in a metal cutting band saw. He told me that is how you ruin a saw blade. That is what was done with your AR steel. So I always lay steel flat.
Note, you can usually tell AR steel by looking at the edge. Its torch cut from the steel mill. To hard to use shears on, tears them up.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
Good testing, and well thought out. You're going to need a larger shop.
I've used the abrasive blades on a Stihl concrete saw to remove quarter panels from "junk cars" instead of a Sawzall. Clean cut with no distortion. If you want to destroy a carbide tipped blade, try cutting hard anodized aluminum. AR-400 and AR-500 are a piece of cake compared to mil spec hard anodize.
A quick question on your air particle counter. How long of a period of time are you using as a sample time and how long between tests?
Better man, 7075 with mil spec processing ?
Bull.
Love your channel, how about pipe wrenches, are Ridgid the best and are they worth the cost?
Thank you for the video idea!
I had watched this video when it was released but I didn't own a metal chop saw. This morning I found a new 14" Evolution w/ the Evolution metal blade for $125 at an estate sale. When it needs a new blade the Diablo or Irwin could be the way to go. I probably gain more useful knowledge that impacts my life from you than any other channel. Thank you. Other channels are entertaining to watch but I won't be doing it myself.
You are welcome!
Update I ordered the Oshlun to make spatulas from new Lodge skillets so it's been cutting cast iron. I barely finished the 15th spatula when it quit cutting. That's 45 cuts so I tried Diablo which didn't cut cast iron at all. Fortunately Northern Tool returned it. I have heard that you can have these blades resharpened depending on the amount of damage on the blade. If anyone knows what blade is good for cast iron please let me know.
Fantastic test as usual. I’m wondering if there is something you noted in the Oshlun blade that made it lose your consideration when you wrapped up?
I thought the same thing. I thought the Oshlun was a winner for speed, longevity and cut quality.
I assume because it didn't do good on durability. Its cut time went up by 50%.
Here’s a tip, according to my local sharpening shop, vibration is really bad for the TCT teeth when cutting metal so where possible I clamp both sides of the work and only cut mild steel or non ferrous metals with it. If I’m not sure I’ll use a grinder with a cutting disc. As you could see in the video you only get one chance on these blades, get it wrong and the blade is permanently damaged. By the time they’re worn out they’re like an old boxer with most of the teeth either broken or missing. Great video and very informative. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
Thanks and you are welcome!
Great video Todd, a breath of fresh air in comparison with some of the more loquacious demonstrators. I personally use the Diablo, it's not the cheapest & not the most expensive and definitely not the fastest, but it is like the 'Energizer Bunny', it just keeps cutting and cutting and c u t t i n g.. Ciao for Now
Thanks!
The Diablo is one of the few blades not made in China.
Honestly man, you have cracked the code. You get to be a scientist while having RUclips pick up some portion of the bill.
Something interesting to note is that diamond blades are generally not suitable for cutting steel, as at high temperature the diamond (carbon) becomes miscible in steel, meaning that the diamonds are more or less absorbed into the piece you're cutting
Using cooling and oil are normal.
@@0MoTheG not on chop saws
@@FishFind3000 Hm, right. And retrofitting a milkshake fountain is likely impossible. Then one has to take the time.
Thanks for he feedback.
@@FishFind3000 While uncommon, wet chop saws are a thing.
Once again, I figured 18 minutes was too long to keep my interest and now the video is over and I'm sad. :-) I kept watching to see what twist was next. You never disappoint. The angle iron after abuse was very good thinking. Particulate and noise was an added bonus. Great for those working indoors to consider. One of the best YT channels. Best regards.
Thanks!
This guy can make paint drying sound exciting, can't believe i saw the whole video. I don't even need those blades.
Thanks for watching!
FWIW I have been using Diablo blades for a while and they have always been very long lasting and durable. Been using the same blade on my table saw for 5+ years and still doing very clean cuts.
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for all your videos they have saved me a lot of money buying the right tools for the job that give me best bang for my buck. I really appreciate it.
You are welcome!
Another great one, THANKS! Also, very surprised that everyone with teeth didn't get really damaged with so few teeth making contact at one time, could never hacksaw thin material with a coarse tooth blade like these all seeded to do. Great work.
Thanks and you are welcome!
As usual, the best video for comparing products, saving you time, money and heartache. You are the greatest. Keep up your excellent work.
Thanks, will do!
Question? I'm doing research on metal cut-off machines and something to consider is abrasive cutting machines run at approx 4000 rpm where carbide blade machines run around 1300-1650 rpm. That difference doesnt make the tests apples to apples. Spinning the abrasive wheels at less than half their designed speed would cut slower, possibly generate more heat, and not as clean of a cut. MHO
Honestly, the factory evolution blade is surprisingly good and would definitely be perfectly fine for almost anyone purchasing this saw. Great review of blades, thank you!
Thank you!
I love these videos. The only frustrating thing being in the UK is that a lot of the products tested aren't available here
Thanks! Sorry to hear!
Got a Irwin. Had it for a long long time now. Spray blade then cut. Use fiber wheel for stainless and above.
Thanks for sharing.
First
You’re first! Hope you enjoy the video!
Dam your fast Eddie
Damn, Eddie, u fast
That was 4 seconds
Anyone else gettin no sound
You made a very wise purchase with Evolution, most have never heard of them. Evolution is one of the best especially their magdrills.
Example I ripped A588 steel angle from 2x2 into 2x1.5 angle for a special project. I have not found a more durable blade or better saw or mag drill than Evolution's.
Almost forgot I used a Ryobi portable table saw to rip the A588 angle iron.
Thanks for the feedback.
Never knew saw blades that big existed. 14 inches, That's 2 inches bigger than a vinyl record ! Amazing video as always
Thanks!
This one video inspired me to subscribe. Some many of the values I've looked for in a shop product review channel / blog. Thank you. I have used Irwin projects a lot and was betting on their blade to come out on top. I'm glad your data backed up my hunch. I'm a hobbyist, so that price to functionality ratio feels good for me. I liked the wen too, but after that second durability test it's functionality fell of quickly.
Thanks for watching and subscribing! Thanks for sharing.
Love being able to come to this channel when im planning on buying something and seeing a review of exactly what im looking for
Thanks!
if you see sparks you need more pressure. carbide needs a higher feed rate . you should get small blue curl chip at the correct cutting speed.
we use lennox 80 tooth in a production shop. we cut 4.1 channel for trailer frames and only replace the blade on a weekly basis. 2000+ cuts.
Thanks for the feedback.
I like your tool testing, doing your best to keep the variables to a minimum so the results seem to be pretty reliable. It really helps me make decisions in my tool purchasing.
Cheers, mate.
Thanks!
This channel was the first channel I ever subscribed to
Your methodical approach and ingenious tests are always informative and fun. It lets me buy sensibly, too. Thanks.
Thanks and you are welcome!
I usually have good results with all Irwin tools, they are usually my first choice when shopping when I don't have access to Todd's wisdom. Thanks Todd.
You are welcome!
amazing testing - i would not have guessed the winner for the carbide blades -- thanks for sharing!
You are welcome!
You are a scientist my friend. Thank you for your work.
You are welcome!
This guy is the best. Doing real life consumer reports.
Thanks!
Dude. Your so thorough in everting you do. It's awesome. Thanks
Thanks!
Best investigative review channel on the Tube
Thanks!
Video Idea!
Best fence post setting. Bag of concrete vs Sika polyurethane setting bag vs one of those spikes you drive into the ground vs whatever you can come up with. Which is stronger?
I tried the diablo . Lost 3 teeth the first cut on 2x2x11ga . My Tenryu has over 1000 cuts and is still cutting !
Thanks for the feedback.
another great review fast moving, using average metal a shop would use, and a hardened steel test to show whitch blade would last.
Thanks!
I always used the Diablo. They seemed to be the best bang for the buck. Just like running carbide tools on the mill, proper technique is the most important factor. Left alone I made them last a long time but the moment someone who didn’t know what they were doing ran the saw they’d break or dull teeth on brand new blades.
Great feedback! Thank you
Ive never had a diablo anything last more than a weekend. I avoid them.