Can We Break 600 Horsepower? 505cui Stroker Wedge Dyno Thrash • Huge FAILS & Bigger WINS!
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- Опубликовано: 27 окт 2023
- It's been WAY TOO LONG since we completed our 505 cubic inch stroker Chrysler RB440 build - now we're finally ready to hit the dyno at Tommy's Auto & Machine! Our goal was to hit (and surpass) 600-horsepower. Can we do it? See the drama unfold HERE:
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Tommy's Auto Machine & Parts
1719 Batts Blvd, Springfield, TN
(615) 384-5164
tommysmachine@gmail.com
Trick Flow
www.trickflow.com/
K1 Technologies
www.k1technologies.com/
MAHLE
www.us.mahle.com/
Milodon
www.milodon.com/
Harland Sharp
harlandsharp.com/
SD Concepts
www.sd-concepts.com/
440Source
www.440source.com/
Mancini Racing
www.manciniracing.com/
Pertronix Ignition
pertronixbrands.com/pages/per...
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Wow,
What a great vid!
Thank you for sharing everything.
I admire and respect you sharing the flubs with the good, it’s important for us that will be going through this for the 1st time!!!
Thank you so much!
Took a little digging but I see you used Trick Flow's 240 heads on this combo. We have a 494 RB that's pretty much ready for the dyno right now, the TFS roller cam, 240 heads, Victor 440 intake, 950 HP Holley carb. Nice to see you hit your numbers, we're hoping for similar results from ours.
Sounds great! I hope you do!
@@moparconnection 618 HP @ 5600, 649 # @ 4500. Hoping our 950 UXP and a 1" blend spacer picks it up a few more.
I'm glad you painted everything, now it looks like an engine instead of a bunch of parts bolted together
Yeah, I feel the same.
Nice job guys!
My 505 dyno'd at 555 hp and 641 tq, very little tuning! 770 cfm
Very nice! These RB's are torque monsters!
Little hint, once you're settled out if you make a pull at 300 RPM/second you'll actually get a smoother graph and likely a few more numbers, plus your brake specifics will be a little more accurate since it's got more time to sample the results during the pull.
Very good suggestion!
What a beast ! That's some Mopar muscle!
Yeah, it really surprised us! I was sure it would only tick 610hp and 630tq; but Jim was sure it would hit 630.
As one f the few Mopar sources, I find it disconcerting that the engine did not start right up. In the 70's this would have been ok with better cam and lifter materials to cover up building mistakes. I have built only 4 complete Mopar engines and all started within a couple rotations. This was due to having the distributor properly indexed, using a distributor with points (to eliminate electronic glitches), having the carb full of fuel, and using a temporary gas supply (to eliminate having to rely on a 20 foot fuel line being primed and the fuel pump working). I never used a dyno (I couldn't afford one) and used a self made engine stand. I wasn't handy, I just couldn't afford any better. Back then I could blame any failures on being young and stupid. Putting in an oil seal backwards, though not fatal, is a mistake "engine" builders don't make. The point of all this is that if you are going to teach your Mopar followers, you need to lead by example. We all know how to go thru a parts catalog or call the manufacturer for advice. We all can put an engine together, but making sure it is put together right is the difference between a good running engine and one that breathes thru the side of the block. Point is, thanks for the videos but you need to make sure your info is truthful and useful to build that perfect motor. Otherwise, we would be better off having an engine assembled by a professional.
If you want "polished" videos that don't show what may and may not happen, you're gonna want to look elsewhere. We show all of our warts. It would've been VERY EASY to edit out the rear main seal issue and you would've been none the wiser. Equally, we showed that the Pertronix distributor progressively got worse the more we ran it, indicating a flaw that needs addressing. We could've edited that part out too. Do you think Dulcich, Freiburger or DeFeo don't fumble a build? Guess what, brother. I WORKED WITH THEM and I can share stories. So no, we'll "keep it real" here. Sorry to disappoint you. -K
Now that you got your practice in, I have 2 440's and 2 400's I need you guys to build. One goes in an "altered" and the other goes in my 73 Cuda. The last 2, who knows.
LOL if you’d like you know how to reach us!
Good Job.... Nice Engine that runs very well !
IMO, I think it's a good idea because I don't wish to lose any valuable Dyno time, so we always 'check/test' the rear main seal beforehand on every 440 Engine we Machine/Assemble during assembly phase to make sure it doesn't leak prior to feeding the Block Rods/Piston assemblies.
BB Mopars are all we do.... so it was important for us to develop a way to check/test their rear main on the assembly stand FIRST.
All we use are stock retainers/stock neoprene seals.... No issues.
Yeah, we needed to have ran it on a break-in bench first. I wish I owned one. 😉
@@moparconnection Before any 'run in' test stand.... very simply install the Rear Main Seal and Crank in the Block... then install a partial Oil Pan cut in half just behind the Drain plug.... 'hang' the engine suspended off a coupla Bolts in the W/Pump Holes and add Oil to the Oil Pan until the Rear Main is completely submerged.... then turn the Crank a few times !
If the Rear Main is going to leak it will do so pretty quick when submerged like that ?
We usually leave them "hanging" submerged like that for a coupla hours, then if NO leaks....
we drain, put it back on the stand and continue assembly and Feeding it Pistons/Rods.
Your welcome.... because that's what Mopar guys do is help each other out with Tips/Tricks, especially if you've been at it for 45 years professionally like me.... pass it along.
NO Fun putting a 1,000 hp N/A HEMI up on the Dyno in front of a customer Paying you $40K to $50K sometimes to watch a Rear Main go drip... drip... drip....
so starting "hanging" them during assembly decades ago ?
Running a drill to prime the oiling system wouldn't (and didn't because we did that too) reveal the leak. Only heat and positive crankcase atmosphere could reveal that with the crank spinning at RPM.
Wow I just built a 512 six pack with Fitech injection system for my 1972 Charger Rally can’t wait to get it in
Nice! That sounds awesome!
Guy running the dyno should be ashamed of himself. It was clear from the beginning that it was an ignition problem. Don't keep cranking hoping the problem will resolve itself. Mechanics 101 baby
Ah yes, the brilliance within the RUclips comment section. Everybody’s an expert here. 🤪🤣
Guy commenting on RUclips should be ashamed of himself. It was not clear from the beginning if it was an ignition problem.
We just made 615/607 from a 471 with an rpm and 550 ish hydraulic roller with the tf240s. No reason any bbchryler should not make an easy 600 with those heads.
Nice! Yeah 600hp is easy with a 440, anyone who comes in less than that is purposefully not seeking that kind of power or isn’t trying hard.
Good video now it gets me the idea for when i build my 440 i want to make 600+ hp. I have a cam on the shelf that i been wanting to use but don’t know if it’s big enough! Its a bullet cam specs are lift is .592 in & .592 ex,
Duration at .050 is 256 and 264!! I was gonna get a stoker kit from 440 source and edelbrock victor max wedge heads with 10.5 compression ratio.
That’ll be a killer combo!
Be nice to know what size and type of carburetor you used and how you got the extra couple horspeower at the end? I assume it was the 1" spacer under the carb?
Sorry, I should've said so: It was a 900cfm mechanical double pumper with a 1-inch phenolic spacer.
Wow 😳. What a beast !!! What size is the cam ? I built a 505 trickflow 240 with 1.6 HS rockers. I was hoping for 600hp/600 tq.
We used Trick Flow’s cam (from Howard’s); we put up the cam card on the previous episode on this build.
@@moparconnection …. Yup . I just looked back at the episode with the cam card. Keep up the awesome content 🤘🏻🤘🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Good! I’m glad you found that.
Well, that turned out good ! Did anyone find out why the original distributor and plug leads were not cooperating as assembled ? I was going to ask for a parts listing. But someone else already beat me to it ! It would be good to see what the engine was assembled from.
We OHM'ed the plug wires. They were fine. The distributor needs to go back to the manufacturer for recalibration.
I had a flamethrower 3 on my 306 sbf, ran great (for a while) then, unexpectedly took a dump, wasn't a year old...
Yeah, it was a little disappointing.
Plus I would like to know how you determined that the crush was not enough on the rear main seal?
We show in the video how deep the black factory seal sits in the billet end cap, but I believe I can do a better job. That could be a video in itself. Thank you for the suggestion.
Boy, I better rush right out and get me a genuine Mancincni rear seal!!
I get that you’re being sarcastic but if you do buy a billet rear main from Mancini makes sure to use the “high pressure” Fel-Pro seal.
I think your paint job looks fantastic, who says you can't paint aluminum. Now it looks like an engine instead of a bunch of different pieces all bolted together
Appreciated!
Question for You did You figure out what Your rockerarm ratio actually is ? Because in Your last video You mentioned that You didn't know what it was . That's a respectable dyno session should make an A body move nicely on the street or the strip ! Great content Thanks . 🇺🇸🇵🇷🦊👍 P/S what would it cost to duplicate Your build ?
Yes, they're 1.6 rockers. We'll have an article on the magazine listing all of the parts and pricing.
Do you have the cam specifications
Yes, we show the whole cam card in the previous video!
Nice! I need one of these for my 1980 D150. I'm kinda new to Mopar Connection, so I may have missed a cost breakdown of this build?
We didn’t break down the prices but you can email Kevin at info@moparconnectionmagazine.com
I have one, just finding all the week points in my driveline. Doing a 12.2@105 mph in the 1/4 mile.
This kinda horsepower should put any A-body into the 10's with enough converter and gear.
If you cant break 600hp with 505ci you need a sbc lol
LOL! Amen to that!
like how any snafus where not hidden. Teaches us all
Yeah, that was kinda the point. Few things ever go smoothly. Why lie and edit that out?
@@moparconnection I find it helpful.
One thing I'd like to suggest you test is a Progression Ignition distributor. It runs off an app to your phone! My buddy has one on his 360 powered Dart & it WORKS! I'm not a big fan of new fangled electronics, but it's REALLY hard to argue with the fact you dont have to pull apart the distributor to change weights & springs! Andy Wood from Unity Motorsports gets the credit for turning me on to it & my buddy Jim bought & installed it. Good stuff, kinda like having your biscuits and gravy AND your country fried steak for breakfast! Speaking of which..... 😁
Huh this is first I’ve ever heard of this. I’ll have to check that out!
There's a millenial for you. You can make that stock hall effect unit work as good as anything aftermarket and be reliable as hell. Doesn't require a cel phone app either.
Now hold on, @@user-rb5ot6fs4n we don't know if Vincent is a millennial or not. And also, that's really not the way to welcome the next generation of new Mopar enthusiasts.
@@user-rb5ot6fs4n dude I'm 60. My buddy has one in his Dart. Do some research. What are you Gen Z or whatever's riding on our Boomer coatails? 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Nice results. I'm currently saving up to build either a 451, 470, or 512ci from a 400 block (230 casting). I spent a few minutes on the Mopar Connection Magazine website and I'm having trouble finding the story on this engine to get the full build specs. Would you be so kind to post a link to your build. My '71 'cuda has a stock 383 and I want to keep it safe. Therefore, I'm going with a 400 block as I want it to look mostly stock to the untrained eye. I know your 440 build won't work for me 100% as intake manifolds are limited for the low deck B engine, but the rest should mostly translate as a good guide line... Thank you...
Sadly, what you're gonna find is a story just on the short block! We were waiting to get these dyno numbers before publishing the completed engine build story. Expect to see it published in a few weeks with all of the part numbers and links!
@@moparconnection Great, thank you. I know some stuff just won't be the same as crank journal sizes, intake manifold and such are different but I'm hoping this will help guide a number of questions I have.
Absolutely!
It's a nice way of saying the distributor was in backwards 😂. Never done that🤞.😂😂😂
The 180’ out joke? Yeah, these modern ones can be tricky if you’re in a rush.
Editor and chief Mopar guy doesn't know how to install rear main seal in the right orientation and then blames it on the seal. 😂😂😂😂
Actually yes, the stock (black) seal sits too deep in the billet Mancini rear main; the Fel-Pro High Pressure seal is molded thicker and fills in the aftermarket rear main properly. Understand that we left this in to help other people know not to use the stock seal with the Mancini rear main on purpose. We could've just edited it out if we were embarrassed about it.
Rookie mistake on the rear main seal. How many engines have you rebuilt?? 😂😂😂😂
Likely more than most trolls in the RUclips comment section. ;)
This one.
I got screwed by 440 Source on a distributor that was misrepresented, didn't fit, and they wouldn't refund my money. I would be careful doing business with them and their Chinese junk.
Sorry to hear that. We’ve experienced tremendous results from 440Source every time we’ve ordered from them. (And no, they don’t advertise on the magazine either.)
For guys that are supposed to be experts pretty novice mistake putting distributor in 180 degrees off. Guess when you break down expert it's true x is an unknown variable and a spurt is a drip under pressure.
LOL calm down, princess. I’ve stood next to Steve Brule at Westech when he stabbed a distributor in 180’ out.
a Chrysler RB440 is an "engine", not a motor........Tesla's have "motors" Your comment about there being two different thickness felpro rear main seals is B.S.! They do have different materials, but thickness is the same.
Huh, then what was the original definition of “MoPar” again? Refresh my memory please. 😉
@@moparconnection Wrong 100 years ago doesn't make it right today. There, your memory has been refreshed. Go buy a printed dictionary from the original Mopar time period if you need further refreshment.