Thanks so much for the video. I have been changing bulbs, turning on my headlights to stop the damn DRL from buzzing and then of course forgetting to shut off the headlights and dead batteries. Wished i had just found your video a couple years ago. You were dead right on the bad solder joints. Everything worked out great. Very thankful for the clear video. You dah man!!
Thanks dude!!! I have been fixing and repairing my own vehicles for 30 years and have done ground up restorations on two vintage cars. I am an instrumentation tech by trade. I could not find the problem with my 2004 CR-V high beam problem and exhausted all of my troubleshooting skills and knowledge, until I saw your video. Had it fixed in 15 minutes!!! Thanks so much!!
Thank you! I was directed here from a comment in a Nissan forum. I have a 2005 X-Trail that has had wonky daytime lights for a few years. Sometimes both on, sometimes both off - or just the left side on. I sensed that the light bulbs themselves were okay, so this DRL module fix is great! I didn't know how I could safely open the case but eventually used a putty knife and a spare door strike-plate on each side. Just get those straight edges in there to separate the sides - and out comes the circuit board. Mine is slightly different but I'll key on the areas you outlined in the video and report back. Here goes! Follow up: Well... no luck for me. None of my joints looked suspect, like they did in the video. I'll just keep on running my lights in 'twilight' position during the day, until I can get to a wrecker. If THAT part also fails, I'll know how to address it. Nissan doesn't display a trouble code for the DRL failure, so I won't be bothered by that.
Excellent DIY video! My son has a 2004 CRV and it started with intermittent buzzing and the DRL light coming on and off, but the headlights worked. Eventually the buzzing and DRL light stayed on and the right Daytime light stopped working. I was about to go buy a new bulb, when I decided to Google "2004 Honda CRV DRL" and this video popped up. Thank goodness! My soldering skills aren't the greatest, but were good enough to make the repair. Took me about a half-hour and now the buzzing and DRL warning light is off and the right daytime running light is working! Thank you Pierce, for such a well done video!!
glad you were able to resolve your DRL woes. Bad soldering skills? If it fails in the future you can use his DRL module as practice to improve your soldering :)
Not bad soldering skills, but not great. I done more of it, involving electronics, this past couple of years and so far, so good! Anyway, thanks again, worked like a charm! :)
You are wonderful for sharing. solved my intermittent DRL issue. I wish I saw this before throwing out my bulbs thinking they were bad. It's great when smart people share to help us all get a little smarter.
First of all (just in case this help others with headlight issues) not only did we not have running lights, but the passenger side high beam wasn't working. It was one of the smaller connections and wasn't as easy to melt with my small iron. This solved both problems. You have no doubt saved me untold grief. I CANNOT THANK YOU ENOUGH!!!!!
We have same problem. RH DRL not working and RH HB not working. When you say "smaller connections" do you mean one of the two small connection behind the relay or was it one of the numerous small connections on the outside edge of the board? piercedasian - one of the best auto DIY vid's out there. Thanks
I technically re-flowed ALL the solder connections on the board BUT the ones that should be focused on is the joints that are closest to the relay as those are the current carrying connections that get very warm and thus develops cracks over time. If you closely examine the board using a magnifying glass you can generally see the micro cracks that are developing.
Did this fix to my 2005 CRV. Right high beam wasn't working and DRL dashlight was on. After resoldering the module board everything worked perfectly. Right high beam now works and DRL dashlight is off. Thanks so very much for this fix.
Thank you very much from Northwestern Ontario! My boyfriend found your video and has fixed my 2004 Honda CRV without putting a penny in the mechanics pocket! This has made our day since we recently just had a car that had way too many problems, and bought this CRV a few days ago! Thank you again!
2021 and our first CRV 02 and couldn't believe Honda would do recall for this poor module. I contact a CRV forum and no one there responded til I looked and found this video and couldn't be helpful. I was able to take the 10mm bolt and remove the module. And just like yours the cracks where visible on the solder side of the relay. Also once out and removed the repairs couldn't be more easy then putting a diaper on a baby. But mine was up and to the left of the underside and I used the 10mm with extension and just took the whole bracket out. But THANKS again for a 2013 video showing how to do this and where to look.
Glad I took Electronics Service Technology in college this helped alot in how to solder and desolder. Which I did to redo the solder points. And now it looks new. Next time I at junk yard I will grab a few of these as backups.
Great video! This procedure was exactly what I had to do to fix the daytime Running Lights on my 2015 Honda CR-V. The lights started working again and the DRL warning on the dash now disappears once the emergency brake is released.
Excellent Video!! Had intermittent DRL issues for years. Your steps laid out very well. DRL and high beams work with no problems now. Saved me a lot of money! Thank you
Thank you so much! You have saved me a few hundred dollars and a ton of worries. I have a 2006 CR-V and the DRL didn't work for a long time! I thought it was a BIG problem! I followed the steps in your video. It worked out really well, except I had a bit of hard time trying to separate the wire harness from the socket. But it was done. Thanks for sharing!
Fixed mine thanks for the good video. I also fixed an immobilizer problem the same way. Fuel pump wires were high draw wires and cracked the same. A suggestion was to put some holes in the cover of the box to allow some air flow and not get so hot inside.
this worked a treat, 5 minutes with a soldering iron and it is working properly. My 04 MDX unit came out with out tools and it was all done in about 10 minutes. The solder points were really very obvious. THANKs
damn fuel solenoid too at charcoal canister. they fuck up and get evep fault and eventually fry ECU! unreal ey.that was another bad spot. after replacing the purge valve the fault didnt go away because the internal short in evap SOL fried the driver inside ecu board. do a post on that? might be usefull.
Cold and broken solder joints are a common problem on a lot of electronic board are easy repairs thanks for bringing this to light 💡lead solder flows and sticks much better
The DRL fault light on my 2005 CRV was intermittent for a few weeks and then finally came on solid. It made sense that it was something like a cracked solder connection. I follow your tips and it was fixed in 15 mins. Excellent! Thanks very much.
I had the DRL buzzing on and off intermittently and right the highbeam out... followed this tutorial because I solder, and VOILA, it worked. Gotta love the internet. Thanks piercedasian :)
Had my DRL's working intermittently until recently and then they stopped altogether. Your video put me on the right track popped that sucker open put down some new solder she works good as new! Thanks so much.
sweet! Glad to hear that you got your DRLs working properly. It is amazing what the DEALERSHIP WON'T tell you and just charge up the ying yang to repair the module. Congrats!
Well I imagine they just pull the old module, send it off to be 'repaired' and resold. Profit for them on parts and labour.. Or I could just spend 5 minutes with an iron.
I meant that they probably sell you the new one, but send your old one off to be refurbed and sold to some other poor sod. However tossing it is another likely option :p
ah I get you.. You're probably right... or their techs take the old part and rebuild it and then fix other people's car's on the side and pocket the extra cash... in either case fixing it yourself is by far the best option!
My module would squeel like a pig until I turned my headlamps on and it would magically go away. This is the first attempt I've made to investigate this issue. I will be fixing this week. thanks a lot.
2004 Honda civic si (SiR Canada) EP3. Just did this - I had three cracked solder connections I had to repair / re-solder. Worked great. Thanks for the video.
Did this a couple of months ago. worked well as well. i have a '04 too (in mtl) and it's nice to see one with a lot of kms. I have yet to hit the 200k mark. Had to replace the compr./cond. though and a caliper, but all else is well. Good soldering tips! in your Nissan Versa oil change video, I would be cautious recommending synthetic oil for an engine that is habituated on regular petroleum oil, as it might enable leaks to be less inconspicuous on older engines. I like the blue colour, Best.
Thanks very much. Initially this didn't work for me. A friend suggested that I remove the old solder first so I did. Then when I re-soldered the relay pins it worked fine. Sometimes the old solder is in bad shape you have to get rid of it first.
yeah, they're definitely right. It depends on how you solder too. I found when using underpowered irons that solder doesn't flow very good. It's also important to know what solder you're using. Many of these old relays used lead based solder so naturally, you'd want to reflow with a rosin core flux lead based solder. Some folks that struggle with the repair seem to be using the lead free stuff which I think is crap but will work IF you remove most of the lead solder first. Either way you fixed it on your own and that is what matters most.
Nice video. The only thing I might recommend is fully removing the old lead free solder from the holes using a solder sucker. Mixing solder chemistries (leaded/unleaded) can lead to premature failure of the joint. Simply flood the joint with unleaded (adding flux helps a lot), then suck it out with a sucker, and apply new leaded solder. The joint will look better and last longer.
In my case there was no need for it because I have stockpiles of old lead solder that I purchased years ago that flows perfectly with the existing solder. You make valid points however, in that new lead free solder can pose a problem with solder containing lead. Best way to comprehensively remove solder cleanly I find is using solder wick to suck it up. Works extremely well especially when I am working on restoring old vintage electronics.
@@piercedasian So actually what you are are doing when mixing chemistries is you are lowing the melt point of the unleaded solder (217C) to a melting point somewhere in between unleaded and leaded (183C or138C). Even though to the naked eye, the two types appear to flow together, you are actually creating a weak joint at a molecular level. Ie. A pure leaded or pure unleaded solder joint are each a stronger in their own right than any mixture of the two. When you mix, you make a joint that is more prone to oxidization and eventual premature cracking/failure. This is exacerbated in applications that are subject impact damage (like a bouncing car) Tl:dr Always remove old solder unless you are matching the existing type with the new addition
Yes fully aware of that. At the time when I created this video I don't think it even crossed my mind that lead solder was becoming the way of the dodo. As I said before, the solder used in this repair for the relays I fix (and continue to fix) that I use leaded solder because that is what would've been used from the factory. I fortunately haven't had the need to repair (but have played with) dead electronics that use lead free solder and that's a bit of a different animal compared to the good old lead stuff. When that time comes when a I come across a part that uses lead free solder is when I'll have to explain the importance of not mixing two different solder formulations.
@@piercedasian My apologies, I must have misunderstood. Upon rereading and checking RoHS implementation dates. I see that the module that you were repairing likely was produced prior to the introduction of lead free solder. Excellent video
yep the cars I work on have plenty of lead in their electronic components. A bit of an occupational hazard for me since I work on so many of them all the time :) lol
Thank you dude! I just soldered mine up and now everything works like a charm! My day times and right high beam were effected, the same as Waynes in the comments below. You saved me some lettuce, that's for sure.
Thanks, buddy, you really saved my money) Had same problem with civic and have fixed in minutes. Dealership wants 257 CAD plus installation for Civic module. Crap!!
Thanks for the video, it is very helpful too , My 2004 CRV DRL error light up and high beam not work problem was solved after re-soldering the joints .
Glad it resolved your issue. Yes these DRL modules and main fuel relays in these cars all seem to suffer the same problem. A quick touch up with the iron and you're good for another 10+ years.
I had a long time problem with my CRV headlights - buzzing, DRL, highbeams are very dim, sometimes they don't work at all... - HATS OFF TO PIERCE for this great video - although I nearly killed myself twisting to get under the dash - but I aint young any more. My background includes (long time ago) manufacturing printed circuit boards just like the one in this video (and most 1000 times more complicated). And immediately I could see that he knew what he was talking about. A quick look at my board indicated that all the Relay joints were hand soldered. The flux was left on the board, where it should have been cleaned off. Over time the flux can crystallize and actually cause a short circuit - which may have occurred in my case. I did re-flow the solder joints, and cleaned off the flux (I just used paint thinner, which will thin out the flux so it can be wiped off, and any residue paint thinner will quickly evaporate). My lights work great again - It has been years, and many, many, many bulb replacements. Again thanks for a great video!!!!!
+mortgage advisor glad you liked my video but more importantly I'm glad your lights work again! Board manufacturing? wow. I used to run a national repair facility for customer premise equipment for a telecommunications company so understanding soldering techniques is critical. The solder joints on many older cars do fail especially when there is heat and vibration such as that found in a car. The driver resistor in the box + the higher than average amperage draw of lights is what makes joints fail due to all the heat. Thank you for watching my vid!
Was having issues with my drl on my 03. But mine were burnt so bad I went to the auto wrecker and found a good module there 25 bucks. Thanks for the tips there bud. Cheers ehh.
glad you got your DRLs working. Yes sometimes the contacts are so burnt that occasionally it may be just easier to get a used DRL module and resolder the joints prior to installing the replacement unit.
the solder used is Kester leaded solder that is a tin/lead mixture with built in rosin core flux. I just picked up some fine gauge solder and I can't remember what size it was but it was quite fine. I like fine wire solder b/c it melts and handles a little easier than really thick gauged solder that would otherwise need more heat which can be a bad thing for delicate components.
Hi Nick, I would recommend synthetic oil however, there are some gotcha's with synth oil - specifically oil leaks on seals where they didn't leak before. My Honda Odyssey when I first purchased it with 100, 000kms on it got switched over to synth oil and I had a leak start on the main seal. Now I'm quite certain that the leak would've happened eventually but the synthetic made it pop up sooner I figured I had better not upset my viewers by telling them to use something that could cause a leak.
Great video Thanks. But I have a simular problem on a 2001 CRV. I know it was modified for driving Light importing to Norway... My problem is that the light will not go off when I turn off the engine. Any suggestions?
hmm I can't help you there b/c goodness knows how the modification was done. There likely is a sticking relay as I'm assuming that it was working fine previously?
If I recall correctly the CRV daytime lamps rely on the high beams (running on a very reduced voltage) to work and since HID conversions typically delete the high beam lamp circuit (you don't really need it with HID) that no high beams = no daytime running lamps.
The solder I use has flux combined with the solder but you absolutely need flux to allow the solder to flow properly. If your solder doesn't contain rosin core flux then get a compatible flux paste designed for electronics use.
When I start the car I hear a buzzing sound (coming from the dash area) which goes off eventually or when I turn the headlights (parking or night) on. Eventually it stopped altogether and the DRL indicator light stopped appearing on the dash and the DRL lights are not working any more. Will this technique work ? Thanks in advance.
What you described is exactly how a DRL modules begins to fail. Solder up those joints and you'll get another solid 10 years of service from the module :)
Thanks! Since the DRL lights are working (and DRL indicator is not coming ON) what does fixing the solder joints buy me ? I understand that it buys me another ten years of the DRL module but don't understand what that means.
@ piercedasian = Hey I followed this vid and after remove the component and re-soldering all of the connections, I popped it back in and it worked! Thank you so much for the video, it was a quick and easy fix to follow!
+rob b it is a federally mandated safety feature on all Canadian market vehicles that began on January 1, 1990. If memory serves me right most cars up in Canada had daytime running lamps by the late 1980's to meet this government mandate. It is to help improve visibility of cars on the road and a study that was conducted since the 1970s proved that DRLs systems helped improve safety due to increased "awareness" of other drivers being able to "notice" your car on the road.
The box is held onto the car's chassis via a bracket that uses a single 10mm bolt. It is far easier to service this item by just remove the electronics from the box and not have to fiddle with the actual box and bracket since it is in such an awkward position.
yeah you noticed her did you? She's 100% minty inside and out and rarely gets driven to stay that way. Did a full restore on it back in 2007 and I don't regret doing any of it.
Thank you very much from Northwestern Ontario! My boyfriend found your video and has fixed my 2004 Honda CRV without putting a penny in the mechanics pocket! This has made our day since we recently just had a car that had way too many problems, and bought this CRV a few days ago! Thank you again!
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Thanks so much for the video. I have been changing bulbs, turning on my headlights to stop the damn DRL from buzzing and then of course forgetting to shut off the headlights and dead batteries. Wished i had just found your video a couple years ago. You were dead right on the bad solder joints. Everything worked out great. Very thankful for the clear video. You dah man!!
Thanks dude!!! I have been fixing and repairing my own vehicles for 30 years and have done ground up restorations on two vintage cars. I am an instrumentation tech by trade. I could not find the problem with my 2004 CR-V high beam problem and exhausted all of my troubleshooting skills and knowledge, until I saw your video. Had it fixed in 15 minutes!!! Thanks so much!!
Glad to help
Thank you!
I was directed here from a comment in a Nissan forum. I have a 2005 X-Trail that has had wonky daytime lights for a few years. Sometimes both on, sometimes both off - or just the left side on.
I sensed that the light bulbs themselves were okay, so this DRL module fix is great!
I didn't know how I could safely open the case but eventually used a putty knife and a spare door strike-plate on each side. Just get those straight edges in there to separate the sides - and out comes the circuit board. Mine is slightly different but I'll key on the areas you outlined in the video and report back.
Here goes!
Follow up: Well... no luck for me. None of my joints looked suspect, like they did in the video.
I'll just keep on running my lights in 'twilight' position during the day, until I can get to a wrecker. If THAT part also fails, I'll know how to address it. Nissan doesn't display a trouble code for the DRL failure, so I won't be bothered by that.
Excellent DIY video! My son has a 2004 CRV and it started with intermittent buzzing and the DRL light coming on and off, but the headlights worked. Eventually the buzzing and DRL light stayed on and the right Daytime light stopped working. I was about to go buy a new bulb, when I decided to Google "2004 Honda CRV DRL" and this video popped up. Thank goodness! My soldering skills aren't the greatest, but were good enough to make the repair. Took me about a half-hour and now the buzzing and DRL warning light is off and the right daytime running light is working! Thank you Pierce, for such a well done video!!
glad you were able to resolve your DRL woes. Bad soldering skills? If it fails in the future you can use his DRL module as practice to improve your soldering :)
Not bad soldering skills, but not great. I done more of it, involving electronics, this past couple of years and so far, so good! Anyway, thanks again, worked like a charm! :)
you're most welcome!
You are wonderful for sharing. solved my intermittent DRL issue. I wish I saw this before throwing out my bulbs thinking they were bad. It's great when smart people share to help us all get a little smarter.
knowledge is power :)
First of all (just in case this help others with headlight issues) not only did we not have running lights, but the passenger side high beam wasn't working. It was one of the smaller connections and wasn't as easy to melt with my small iron. This solved both problems. You have no doubt saved me untold grief. I CANNOT THANK YOU ENOUGH!!!!!
glad the video helped you out. Thanks for that tip as I'm sure others have had a similar issue like yours.
We have same problem. RH DRL not working and RH HB not working. When you say "smaller connections" do you mean one of the two small connection behind the relay or was it one of the numerous small connections on the outside edge of the board?
piercedasian - one of the best auto DIY vid's out there. Thanks
I technically re-flowed ALL the solder connections on the board BUT the ones that should be focused on is the joints that are closest to the relay as those are the current carrying connections that get very warm and thus develops cracks over time. If you closely examine the board using a magnifying glass you can generally see the micro cracks that are developing.
was wondering about the passenger high beam, couldn't care less about running lights, thanks for throwing that comment up
Found module. Found cracks. Resoldered. DRL works again. Thank you so much!
Glad you were able to fix your DRL module!
Did this fix to my 2005 CRV. Right high beam wasn't working and DRL dashlight was on. After resoldering the module board everything worked perfectly. Right high beam now works and DRL dashlight is off. Thanks so very much for this fix.
+Bob Hicks you're most welcome. So happy to hear that you got your lighting issues resolved!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much from Northwestern Ontario! My boyfriend found your video and has fixed my 2004 Honda CRV without putting a penny in the mechanics pocket! This has made our day since we recently just had a car that had way too many problems, and bought this CRV a few days ago!
Thank you again!
well done, without this video this old mechanic would never figure it out.
+mikebandon see lol, glad I could be of assistance. Thank you for watching!
2021 and our first CRV 02 and couldn't believe Honda would do recall for this poor module. I contact a CRV forum and no one there responded til I looked and found this video and couldn't be helpful. I was able to take the 10mm bolt and remove the module. And just like yours the cracks where visible on the solder side of the relay. Also once out and removed the repairs couldn't be more easy then putting a diaper on a baby. But mine was up and to the left of the underside and I used the 10mm with extension and just took the whole bracket out. But THANKS again for a 2013 video showing how to do this and where to look.
Glad I took Electronics Service Technology in college this helped alot in how to solder and desolder. Which I did to redo the solder points. And now it looks new. Next time I at junk yard I will grab a few of these as backups.
Glad my video was of use to you.
Great video! This procedure was exactly what I had to do to fix the daytime Running Lights on my 2015 Honda CR-V. The lights started working again and the DRL warning on the dash now disappears once the emergency brake is released.
i follow your instructions to fix my 05 CRV high beam not lit up problem , works like a charm, thanks dude !!
Glad it helped
Excellent Video!! Had intermittent DRL issues for years. Your steps laid out very well. DRL and high beams work with no problems now. Saved me a lot of money! Thank you
glad it worked out for you!
Thank you so much! You have saved me a few hundred dollars and a ton of worries. I have a 2006 CR-V and the DRL didn't work for a long time! I thought it was a BIG problem! I followed the steps in your video. It worked out really well, except I had a bit of hard time trying to separate the wire harness from the socket. But it was done. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it helped
Fixed mine thanks for the good video. I also fixed an immobilizer problem the same way. Fuel pump wires were high draw wires and cracked the same. A suggestion was to put some holes in the cover of the box to allow some air flow and not get so hot inside.
Glad it helped
this worked a treat, 5 minutes with a soldering iron and it is working properly. My 04 MDX unit came out with out tools and it was all done in about 10 minutes. The solder points were really very obvious. THANKs
you're most welcome. Glad you got your DRL issues fixed! Thanks for watching :)
Did this on many Hondas. Except on VR-V . Great video. Internet actually does not have as much on the CR-V for this particular repair.
+AUTOCUBE lol, yeah it is definitely a common problem and I would agree that theren aren't as many CR-V fix it vids as compared to other Honda models.
damn fuel solenoid too at charcoal canister.
they fuck up and get evep fault and eventually fry ECU! unreal ey.that was another bad spot. after replacing the purge valve the fault didnt go away because the internal short in evap SOL fried the driver inside ecu board. do a post on that? might be usefull.
Cold and broken solder joints are a common problem on a lot of electronic board are easy repairs thanks for bringing this to light 💡lead solder flows and sticks much better
yeah the new ROHS compliant stuff drives me mental. Old school lead all the way!
The DRL fault light on my 2005 CRV was intermittent for a few weeks and then finally came on solid. It made sense that it was something like a cracked solder connection. I follow your tips and it was fixed in 15 mins. Excellent! Thanks very much.
PartikleDestroyer glad you solved your DRL problem!
I had the DRL buzzing on and off intermittently and right the highbeam out... followed this tutorial because I solder, and VOILA, it worked. Gotta love the internet. Thanks piercedasian :)
glad it worked out for you! Thanks for watching :)
Had my DRL's working intermittently until recently and then they stopped altogether. Your video put me on the right track popped that sucker open put down some new solder she works good as new! Thanks so much.
sweet! Glad to hear that you got your DRLs working properly. It is amazing what the DEALERSHIP WON'T tell you and just charge up the ying yang to repair the module. Congrats!
Well I imagine they just pull the old module, send it off to be 'repaired' and resold. Profit for them on parts and labour.. Or I could just spend 5 minutes with an iron.
No they actually sell you the new module and toss the old one!
I meant that they probably sell you the new one, but send your old one off to be refurbed and sold to some other poor sod. However tossing it is another likely option :p
ah I get you.. You're probably right... or their techs take the old part and rebuild it and then fix other people's car's on the side and pocket the extra cash... in either case fixing it yourself is by far the best option!
My module would squeel like a pig until I turned my headlamps on and it would magically go away. This is the first attempt I've made to investigate this issue. I will be fixing this week. thanks a lot.
you're welcome!
2004 Honda civic si (SiR Canada) EP3. Just did this - I had three cracked solder connections I had to repair / re-solder. Worked great. Thanks for the video.
nice an old school EP3 :) Glad it all worked out for you.
2002 RSX's DRL module fixed! Money saved, thanks man!*For other RSX owners, same location and same size bolt*
glad you got it all figured out. Thanks for confirming the location and bolt size on your RSX.
Thanks for this video. Fixed my DRL issue. Didn't have any solder available, so just re-flowed the connections.
You're most welcome!
Did this a couple of months ago. worked well as well. i have a '04 too (in mtl) and it's nice to see one with a lot of kms. I have yet to hit the 200k mark. Had to replace the compr./cond. though and a caliper, but all else is well. Good soldering tips! in your Nissan Versa oil change video, I would be cautious recommending synthetic oil for an engine that is habituated on regular petroleum oil, as it might enable leaks to be less inconspicuous on older engines. I like the blue colour, Best.
Your instructions are clear and good. I fixed mine in half an hour.
+Armand Halim excellent work! glad you got it all resolved :)
Thanks! Still getting value from this video in 2021!
glad it helps!
Thanks very much. Initially this didn't work for me. A friend suggested that I remove the old solder first so I did. Then when I re-soldered the relay pins it worked fine. Sometimes the old solder is in bad shape you have to get rid of it first.
yeah, they're definitely right. It depends on how you solder too. I found when using underpowered irons that solder doesn't flow very good. It's also important to know what solder you're using. Many of these old relays used lead based solder so naturally, you'd want to reflow with a rosin core flux lead based solder. Some folks that struggle with the repair seem to be using the lead free stuff which I think is crap but will work IF you remove most of the lead solder first. Either way you fixed it on your own and that is what matters most.
Nice video. The only thing I might recommend is fully removing the old lead free solder from the holes using a solder sucker. Mixing solder chemistries (leaded/unleaded) can lead to premature failure of the joint. Simply flood the joint with unleaded (adding flux helps a lot), then suck it out with a sucker, and apply new leaded solder. The joint will look better and last longer.
In my case there was no need for it because I have stockpiles of old lead solder that I purchased years ago that flows perfectly with the existing solder. You make valid points however, in that new lead free solder can pose a problem with solder containing lead. Best way to comprehensively remove solder cleanly I find is using solder wick to suck it up. Works extremely well especially when I am working on restoring old vintage electronics.
@@piercedasian So actually what you are are doing when mixing chemistries is you are lowing the melt point of the unleaded solder (217C) to a melting point somewhere in between unleaded and leaded (183C or138C). Even though to the naked eye, the two types appear to flow together, you are actually creating a weak joint at a molecular level. Ie. A pure leaded or pure unleaded solder joint are each a stronger in their own right than any mixture of the two. When you mix, you make a joint that is more prone to oxidization and eventual premature cracking/failure. This is exacerbated in applications that are subject impact damage (like a bouncing car)
Tl:dr Always remove old solder unless you are matching the existing type with the new addition
Yes fully aware of that. At the time when I created this video I don't think it even crossed my mind that lead solder was becoming the way of the dodo. As I said before, the solder used in this repair for the relays I fix (and continue to fix) that I use leaded solder because that is what would've been used from the factory. I fortunately haven't had the need to repair (but have played with) dead electronics that use lead free solder and that's a bit of a different animal compared to the good old lead stuff. When that time comes when a I come across a part that uses lead free solder is when I'll have to explain the importance of not mixing two different solder formulations.
@@piercedasian My apologies, I must have misunderstood. Upon rereading and checking RoHS implementation dates. I see that the module that you were repairing likely was produced prior to the introduction of lead free solder. Excellent video
yep the cars I work on have plenty of lead in their electronic components. A bit of an occupational hazard for me since I work on so many of them all the time :) lol
15 minutes all done 2004 Honda element saved me $180.ca Thanks again!
That's awesome news. Glad you saved a pile of cash!
Had similar issue with my 2005 crv. The technique totally worked. You rock, dude! Thx.
glad you got your DRL module fixed! Thanks for watching!
Wow easy fix...took like 15 minutes 2004 crv..thanks a million. That buzzing was be becoming really annoying..
@ NewFoundLand OutDoorsMan - yep, quick fix that would otherwise cost you a small little fortune at the stealership!
Thank you dude! I just soldered mine up and now everything works like a charm! My day times and right high beam were effected, the same as Waynes in the comments below. You saved me some lettuce, that's for sure.
glad it all worked out well for you. Thanks for watching!
Thanks, buddy, you really saved my money) Had same problem with civic and have fixed in minutes. Dealership wants 257 CAD plus installation for Civic module. Crap!!
yep that sounds about right. The part is surprisingly quite expensive but yet it is such an easy fix! Glad you were able to fix your own modules :)
Wow, thanks SO MUCH for this video! You saved me big bucks getting this fixed.
Thanks for the video, it is very helpful too , My 2004 CRV DRL error light up and high beam not work problem was solved after re-soldering the joints .
Glad it resolved your issue. Yes these DRL modules and main fuel relays in these cars all seem to suffer the same problem. A quick touch up with the iron and you're good for another 10+ years.
This works. Thanks loads for taking the time to make such a useful instructional.
glad you liked my video. Thanks for watching!
Thanks!! I just bought a 2003 Element which has the DRL symbol illuminated. Glad I found your vid. I haven't tried it yet, but will do shortly.
+Geoff Robson Yep the repair for the element is identical. Let me know how the repair went.
I had a long time problem with my CRV headlights - buzzing, DRL, highbeams are very dim, sometimes they don't work at all... -
HATS OFF TO PIERCE for this great video - although I nearly killed myself twisting to get under the dash - but I aint young any more. My background includes (long time ago) manufacturing printed circuit boards just like the one in this video (and most 1000 times more complicated). And immediately I could see that he knew what he was talking about.
A quick look at my board indicated that all the Relay joints were hand soldered. The flux was left on the board, where it should have been cleaned off. Over time the flux can crystallize and actually cause a short circuit - which may have occurred in my case. I did re-flow the solder joints, and cleaned off the flux (I just used paint thinner, which will thin out the flux so it can be wiped off, and any residue paint thinner will quickly evaporate).
My lights work great again - It has been years, and many, many, many bulb replacements. Again thanks for a great video!!!!!
+mortgage advisor glad you liked my video but more importantly I'm glad your lights work again! Board manufacturing? wow. I used to run a national repair facility for customer premise equipment for a telecommunications company so understanding soldering techniques is critical. The solder joints on many older cars do fail especially when there is heat and vibration such as that found in a car. The driver resistor in the box + the higher than average amperage draw of lights is what makes joints fail due to all the heat.
Thank you for watching my vid!
@ Brooklyn Ballentine - Glad you found the video useful! Hope your new CR-V provides you with many years of service! :)
Thanks for the quality video, worked for me in 2019!
that's awesome! Thanks for watching.
Thanks so much...just fixed my DRL module on my 2005 CR-V!!!
you're most welcome!
Was having issues with my drl on my 03. But mine were burnt so bad I went to the auto wrecker and found a good module there 25 bucks. Thanks for the tips there bud. Cheers ehh.
glad you got your DRLs working. Yes sometimes the contacts are so burnt that occasionally it may be just easier to get a used DRL module and resolder the joints prior to installing the replacement unit.
Great video! Worked like a charm. DRLs restored. Thanks!!!
glad you got your DRL issues resolved. Thanks for watching!
What gauge of wire is that and what type of wire is ie all lead, tin etc. thanks for taking the time to show your skill to us.
the solder used is Kester leaded solder that is a tin/lead mixture with built in rosin core flux. I just picked up some fine gauge solder and I can't remember what size it was but it was quite fine. I like fine wire solder b/c it melts and handles a little easier than really thick gauged solder that would otherwise need more heat which can be a bad thing for delicate components.
Thanks! Just fixed my 2004 CRV
Awesome news!
good vid. worked on my brother in laws 2002 crv. thanks again.
fakie180 you're very welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! I fixed my 2005 Acura El DRL!! Thank you.
Glad it helped!
Hi Nick, I would recommend synthetic oil however, there are some gotcha's with synth oil - specifically oil leaks on seals where they didn't leak before. My Honda Odyssey when I first purchased it with 100, 000kms on it got switched over to synth oil and I had a leak start on the main seal. Now I'm quite certain that the leak would've happened eventually but the synthetic made it pop up sooner I figured I had better not upset my viewers by telling them to use something that could cause a leak.
Fucking awesome video! I've been tackling repairs on 2006 CR-V and this video just saved me like $400. Thank you for sharing!!!!!
glad you found my video "fucking" amazing :) Thanks for watching and go buy yourself a beer for fixing it yourself :)
Great video Thanks. But I have a simular problem on a 2001 CRV. I know it was modified for driving Light importing to Norway...
My problem is that the light will not go off when I turn off the engine.
Any suggestions?
hmm I can't help you there b/c goodness knows how the modification was done. There likely is a sticking relay as I'm assuming that it was working fine previously?
This video saved me time & some scrilla! Works like a charm! Thank you!
glad it all worked out for you!
Thanks dude! Just fixed mine on my Civic and saved some cash!
Cheers!
You are a grate man with outstanding qualities which I love ❤️ the most
thank you so much for the kind words! Always glad to hear that someone appreciates the work I do!
@ Wayne Deptuck - Thanks for that additional tip and glad you found the video useful!
Video and explanation well done.
Greetings from México 🇲🇽✌️
Thank you very much
it work really well
a new module at the dealer is 139.99$ plus taxes
so more money for me :)
yep, that is the same mindset as what I have... simple fix to save me money to spend on other things :)
Tried it and it fixed the problem.
But check the fuses as I found a burned out one.
Thank you... very useful... you saved me some bucks... thanks again.
+drsproc glad you liked my video. Thanks for watching :)
A ++++ for your DIY video very easy to follow step by step well done men !!! my girl friend never had headlight going that bright thank you !
glad it worked out well for you. thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing,
Can you tel the name: what kind soldering gun ?
Thank u again
I personally use Weller and Hakko soldering irons because they're the best around and they're very affordable.
@@piercedasian
Thanks for helping,
Solder iron with, how many Watts ? Also what kind Iron Wire ?
Thanks again
Muchas gracias excelente video
no problemo!
The electronic power steering module of my Hyundai i 10 is not working. Now I am going to try your method.
it definitely could be a loose solder joint for your EPS.
Thanks for the vid very helpful
you're very welcome! Thanks for watching.
SWEET!! Thanks!! Gotta love RUclips!
glad you found the video useful!
I have this problem along with few other problems : intermittent AC disfunction, intermittent hot air not switching, could these be related?
hmm not likely but there could be another module SIMILAR to a DRL one that could have a faulty solder joint that is causing these issues.
DRL fixed. Thanks! 05 civic.
I install hid lights to my honda crv low high beam working but day time running light doesnt work .. Can u help me whats the best thing to do thank u
If I recall correctly the CRV daytime lamps rely on the high beams (running on a very reduced voltage) to work and since HID conversions typically delete the high beam lamp circuit (you don't really need it with HID) that no high beams = no daytime running lamps.
Do you need flux paste or its fine without?
The solder I use has flux combined with the solder but you absolutely need flux to allow the solder to flow properly. If your solder doesn't contain rosin core flux then get a compatible flux paste designed for electronics use.
Me too. Worked like a charm, as they say. Thanks!
glad you found the video useful!
When I start the car I hear a buzzing sound (coming from the dash area) which goes off eventually or when I turn the headlights (parking or night) on. Eventually it stopped altogether and the DRL indicator light stopped appearing on the dash and the DRL lights are not working any more. Will this technique work ? Thanks in advance.
DRL lights are still working. Just DRL light indicator stopped coming on altogether.
What you described is exactly how a DRL modules begins to fail. Solder up those joints and you'll get another solid 10 years of service from the module :)
Thanks! Since the DRL lights are working (and DRL indicator is not coming ON) what does fixing the solder joints buy me ? I understand that it buys me another ten years of the DRL module but don't understand what that means.
Hello does anyone know where the DRL module on a 2010 Honda CRV is located...? I can't seem to find any info. Thanks
It should be underneath the drivers side dash around the fuse box steering column area.
@@piercedasian apparently not in the generation of CRV....
@ piercedasian = Hey I followed this vid and after remove the component and re-soldering all of the connections, I popped it back in and it worked! Thank you so much for the video, it was a quick and easy fix to follow!
glad you got it all figured out! Thanks for watching!
My dash lights, running lights front and rear do not work. Could it be this?
running lights and rear lights yes. Dash lights maybe not so much but I'd start with the DRL module first.
@@piercedasian it was fuse in the engine bay fuse box. It had a thin Crack on it.
Thanks man. That. worked!!
Will give ot a shot.
Good luck!
Does anyone know where to find the DRL Module on a 2007 Honda CRV?
it should be located by the steering column no?
why would you need headlamps on in the daytime ?
+rob b it is a federally mandated safety feature on all Canadian market vehicles that began on January 1, 1990. If memory serves me right most cars up in Canada had daytime running lamps by the late 1980's to meet this government mandate. It is to help improve visibility of cars on the road and a study that was conducted since the 1970s proved that DRLs systems helped improve safety due to increased "awareness" of other drivers being able to "notice" your car on the road.
piercedasian oh i see, im in the U.K no such silly rules..
lol, yes in Canada we have some pretty stringent laws for all sorts of things....
I hope this works on my Q45, what a pain eh?
It depends on the mode of failure. If luck is on your side then the fix at least will be super easy.
@@piercedasian went to a buddy at the National research Council and it was fixed in 10 min. Perfectly. Cracked solider just like in the video
that's awesome news! Good job!
How to remove the box
The box is held onto the car's chassis via a bracket that uses a single 10mm bolt. It is far easier to service this item by just remove the electronics from the box and not have to fiddle with the actual box and bracket since it is in such an awkward position.
Thanks so much
you're welcome!
thanks maaan
you're welcome.
Show where is DRL Fuse o relay
You can find it on the fuse diagram of your car. I don't have that handy on me.
Thx
you're most welcome!
You's a gud mandem
thanks!
that CRX though :)
yeah you noticed her did you? She's 100% minty inside and out and rarely gets driven to stay that way. Did a full restore on it back in 2007 and I don't regret doing any of it.
u used too mmany big words lol
+King JDM lol, big words? I've already trimmed down my vocabulary! You should've heard how I spoke years ago... :)
lol your vid worked tho! my drl works properly now
sweet... ;)
Thank you very much from Northwestern Ontario! My boyfriend found your video and has fixed my 2004 Honda CRV without putting a penny in the mechanics pocket! This has made our day since we recently just had a car that had way too many problems, and bought this CRV a few days ago!
Thank you again!