After years of "futzing" around with Q settings I finally succumbed to common sense around the way I use the Q. Use aperture priority. Period. If you trust the Q3 up to 6400 ISO (you should), and you trust the metering capability with highlight weighted metering (you should although I still use -1/3 EV), the way in which you suggest you use the camera should lead you to aperture priority shooting. To be sure, I occasionally I need to take control of the shutter because I've got movement I need to freeze. But, setting the ISO and shutter to auto and you control the ring will net you beautiful shots. If you're under exposed a tad so be it. The Leica files are wonderful in Lightroom as you know. At the very least set up a user profile with aperture priority and give it a try.
I started doing that as well, but not in the evening when it requires higher than 6400 ISO or the shutter speed slowing down. The stabilization on the Q3 is not nearly as good as the Sony so I have found I can't trust it down around 1/60th handheld.
Interesting comparison, did you look at the exposure preview settings on the Q3. There are two options P-A-S and P-A-S-M. Try to set it to P-A-S-M. This should give you a correct preview in manual mode.
a couple things- in P, A, S, the scale on the bottom shows exposure comp setting not absolute exposure. It's an auto setting so the scale is there for you to bias the auto to your liking. In M the scale is a traditional exposure meter. Second, this kind of behavior is influenced by several things, one being how the camera focus and what a choice Leica seems to have made when you are near a limit. So you have to look at what is happening, if you are stopped down, the camera is nominally wide open for focus and then when you half press it stops down, and if you are in an Auto setting where the camera cannot achieve a proper exposure the viewfinder goes dark. Why it wasn't like this from the git-go? I guess bc of focus or Leica dumbness:). My R5 doesn't behave like that and neither does your Sony I assume. This behavior is also worse near Auto exposure limits, ie in Shutter priority and fixed ISO it only has 7 stops of possible adjustment before going out of range, and so it seem the camera prioritizes achieving focus and then displaying exposure second in the half press. You are less likely to encounter this in Aperture Priority since the camera has 14 stops of shutter adjustment before going out of range. But it does brighten and darken to focus at full aperture and then stop down for taking which results in a flash. Adding Auto ISO also means even fewer exposure combos out of range, so hopefully this helps you understand what is going on. In practice I've not had this issue very much since I've have it setup as more of a point and shoot in A mode with Auto ISO. So I see what I get 99% of the time and just use ex. comp on the thumb wheel.
@@robertwrightphoto This is absolutely 100% correct and beatifully explained. I was going to suggest to Jerad but I couldn't have said it any more perfectly. Well done, sir!
This is really thoughtful. I shoot both M and Q systems and love these cameras. They are spectacular and unique and do precisely where they are designed to do, but they are not for everyone.
All raw files are already processed and camera manufacturers apply different amounts of sharpness and noise reduction. Therefore sharpness should not be mixed up with resolution. Would be interesting to see how much sharpness you could apply until artefacts get visible. It seems to me in your video that Sony does a bit more processing.
Still objects do not need a 1/250 shutter speed. Any camera with internal stabilization should be able to capture a sharp image at 1/60th handheld. The Leica is not a low light monster like the Sony, so if it can't handle handheld shots at anything below 1/250th then it's not worth it.
@@jeradcameraah I can shoot m11 at 1/60 without ibis… but you shoked your hand way too much at first photo…. It’s your poor technique not camera’s fault. And yes q3 ibis is not really good, but neither is sony’s. It goes like this = Hasselblad x2d, Canon r6 = sony a7rV, then other cameras. You must know that you need to learn how to stabilize any camera as each has a bit different grip and you need to get used to it.
I think there is some user error / learning curve going on with those sharpness comparisons… my 43 is, if anything, almost too sharp, tbh, and that is from someone who owns the 35 and 50 Voigtlander APO lenses, as well as the Nikon Z 50 1.8 Focusing can be a bit tricky with the Leica to adapt to… I suggest using AF-S and the Field settings… and make the focus point small when you are doing these tests (you can change the focus point size by long-pressing on the focus box on the rear LCD screen and using the thumb wheel to adjust). Also wondering if there is some camera blur issues. There’s just no way the 40mm Sony lens is sharper… unless your copy of the 43 has some issues.
It likely had to do with the shutter speed. I am used to being able to trust a camera handheld down to at least 1/60th. I don't think you can do that with the Q3.
@ try setting the stabilization in the menus from auto to on… that made a difference for me I think that if using the auto setting, the camera often disables the stabilization a 1/60s. I did this and got a much better hit rate afterwards. But yeah, 1/80s is the most comfortable for me and my shaken hands… the combo of the longer (vs the regular q3) focal length paired with that massive sensor and only in-lens stabilization make it so you definitely have to work a bit harder to keep the camera stable. I’d also say that it’s best to be shooting at 1/250 and above if you’re planning on using a file for any kind of sharpness test.
The settings can't be exactly the same because the exposure is different. I tried to go for a balanced exposure over using the same exact settings because then one image would be much darker. I don't know the science behind it but the two cameras don't seem to measure light or color the same.
For still photography the Sony A7RIV/A7RIVA and the Sony A7RV gives better image quality than the Sony A1. The Q3 is a stupid expensive camera that cannot change Lenses. The Sony A7RV have slightly better dynamic range than Q3.
I have both the normal Q3 and an a7IV with four GM lenses. The fact that you can't change lenses on the Q3 isn't really a disadvantage. It's not a tool that is adapted to the situation. The situation adapts to the Leica. You take more careful photos with it and it takes a lot of speed out of unnecessary images. It is also extremely high quality and has a compact design, which makes it an accessory that you take with you in everyday life or when traveling. The price is very high, maybe too high, but I have never regretted the purchase, although I have with some GM lenses...
After years of "futzing" around with Q settings I finally succumbed to common sense around the way I use the Q. Use aperture priority. Period. If you trust the Q3 up to 6400 ISO (you should), and you trust the metering capability with highlight weighted metering (you should although I still use -1/3 EV), the way in which you suggest you use the camera should lead you to aperture priority shooting. To be sure, I occasionally I need to take control of the shutter because I've got movement I need to freeze. But, setting the ISO and shutter to auto and you control the ring will net you beautiful shots. If you're under exposed a tad so be it. The Leica files are wonderful in Lightroom as you know. At the very least set up a user profile with aperture priority and give it a try.
I started doing that as well, but not in the evening when it requires higher than 6400 ISO or the shutter speed slowing down. The stabilization on the Q3 is not nearly as good as the Sony so I have found I can't trust it down around 1/60th handheld.
Interesting comparison, did you look at the exposure preview settings on the Q3. There are two options P-A-S and P-A-S-M. Try to set it to P-A-S-M. This should give you a correct preview in manual mode.
Yeah, I tried both and used P-A-S-M. It still wasn't what I was used to and that's ok. With time I will get used to the difference in preview.
a couple things- in P, A, S, the scale on the bottom shows exposure comp setting not absolute exposure. It's an auto setting so the scale is there for you to bias the auto to your liking. In M the scale is a traditional exposure meter. Second, this kind of behavior is influenced by several things, one being how the camera focus and what a choice Leica seems to have made when you are near a limit. So you have to look at what is happening, if you are stopped down, the camera is nominally wide open for focus and then when you half press it stops down, and if you are in an Auto setting where the camera cannot achieve a proper exposure the viewfinder goes dark. Why it wasn't like this from the git-go? I guess bc of focus or Leica dumbness:). My R5 doesn't behave like that and neither does your Sony I assume. This behavior is also worse near Auto exposure limits, ie in Shutter priority and fixed ISO it only has 7 stops of possible adjustment before going out of range, and so it seem the camera prioritizes achieving focus and then displaying exposure second in the half press. You are less likely to encounter this in Aperture Priority since the camera has 14 stops of shutter adjustment before going out of range. But it does brighten and darken to focus at full aperture and then stop down for taking which results in a flash. Adding Auto ISO also means even fewer exposure combos out of range, so hopefully this helps you understand what is going on. In practice I've not had this issue very much since I've have it setup as more of a point and shoot in A mode with Auto ISO. So I see what I get 99% of the time and just use ex. comp on the thumb wheel.
@@robertwrightphoto This is absolutely 100% correct and beatifully explained. I was going to suggest to Jerad but I couldn't have said it any more perfectly. Well done, sir!
This is really thoughtful. I shoot both M and Q systems and love these cameras. They are spectacular and unique and do precisely where they are designed to do, but they are not for everyone.
All raw files are already processed and camera manufacturers apply different amounts of sharpness and noise reduction. Therefore sharpness should not be mixed up with resolution. Would be interesting to see how much sharpness you could apply until artefacts get visible. It seems to me in your video that Sony does a bit more processing.
Your shutter speed is too low on the Q43, you need to be at 1/250 at a min.
Still objects do not need a 1/250 shutter speed. Any camera with internal stabilization should be able to capture a sharp image at 1/60th handheld. The Leica is not a low light monster like the Sony, so if it can't handle handheld shots at anything below 1/250th then it's not worth it.
@@jeradcameraah I can shoot m11 at 1/60 without ibis… but you shoked your hand way too much at first photo…. It’s your poor technique not camera’s fault. And yes q3 ibis is not really good, but neither is sony’s. It goes like this = Hasselblad x2d, Canon r6 = sony a7rV, then other cameras. You must know that you need to learn how to stabilize any camera as each has a bit different grip and you need to get used to it.
I think there is some user error / learning curve going on with those sharpness comparisons… my 43 is, if anything, almost too sharp, tbh, and that is from someone who owns the 35 and 50 Voigtlander APO lenses, as well as the Nikon Z 50 1.8
Focusing can be a bit tricky with the Leica to adapt to… I suggest using AF-S and the Field settings… and make the focus point small when you are doing these tests (you can change the focus point size by long-pressing on the focus box on the rear LCD screen and using the thumb wheel to adjust).
Also wondering if there is some camera blur issues.
There’s just no way the 40mm Sony lens is sharper… unless your copy of the 43 has some issues.
It likely had to do with the shutter speed. I am used to being able to trust a camera handheld down to at least 1/60th. I don't think you can do that with the Q3.
@ try setting the stabilization in the menus from auto to on… that made a difference for me
I think that if using the auto setting, the camera often disables the stabilization a 1/60s. I did this and got a much better hit rate afterwards.
But yeah, 1/80s is the most comfortable for me and my shaken hands… the combo of the longer (vs the regular q3) focal length paired with that massive sensor and only in-lens stabilization make it so you definitely have to work a bit harder to keep the camera stable. I’d also say that it’s best to be shooting at 1/250 and above if you’re planning on using a file for any kind of sharpness test.
Very interesting camera comparison！！！
lol what kind of comparison it is if the settings are absolutely different?
The settings can't be exactly the same because the exposure is different. I tried to go for a balanced exposure over using the same exact settings because then one image would be much darker. I don't know the science behind it but the two cameras don't seem to measure light or color the same.
For still photography the Sony A7RIV/A7RIVA and the Sony A7RV gives better image quality than the Sony A1. The Q3 is a stupid expensive camera that cannot change Lenses. The Sony A7RV have slightly better dynamic range than Q3.
I have both the normal Q3 and an a7IV with four GM lenses. The fact that you can't change lenses on the Q3 isn't really a disadvantage. It's not a tool that is adapted to the situation. The situation adapts to the Leica. You take more careful photos with it and it takes a lot of speed out of unnecessary images. It is also extremely high quality and has a compact design, which makes it an accessory that you take with you in everyday life or when traveling. The price is very high, maybe too high, but I have never regretted the purchase, although I have with some GM lenses...
Sony looks too clinical, Leica with its color science looks more inspiring.
I agree.
Sony color science is lacking. I shoot the Q2 and Fuji 100s and 50r and couldn’t be happier.
Probably cause you can add colors later.
That is an old perception .
outdated information)
Tip: use the money for education instead. Maybe yu can become a good photographer.
One day I hope.