That's what the previous owner on my classic car did. no mufflers just straight pipes and well... Now I'm paying the price for it. Oh well my fault for not being more careful
Dude I kid you not I had the same exact noise with my truck after I replace the driveshaft you joints and the yolk. I was about to take it to a shop because I was so pissed off I even contemplated selling it. After watching this I removed the driveshaft and tighten down the bolt next thing I know the noise is gone and it runs perfectly fine. Thank you so much!
bro im fina try what you said because same here i replaced yoke, ujoints and now this is what i got going on same as video and i was contemplating selling the fucker and or sending it to a shop because idk enough about this shit 😂
@@PiniMoo it was that i didnt use a torque wrench on it the first time so i took off the nut and applied it by hand at first then another quarter turn then used the torque wrench set it to 20 in pounds and voila the problem solved af i already put 600 miles on it since lmao thank you so much
bro was it really that simple ? because i replaced my yoke on my rear end and all of the sudden now it does this and didnt do that be4 and i feel like i didnt tighten something enough or i overtighten it
@@Pendragon69608always count the exposed threads before removing the nut. Then mark the end of the shaft with a paint marker and the nut with a notch or deep scratch. This way you can tighten it back to its exact position. I usually add about an 1/8 inch tighter past where the original marks line up if it is an older vehicle’s Has yet to fail me.
Dude, this video saved me. I was just about to order a bearing rebuild kit just before i seen this, and sure enough the pinion nut was near hand tight. Tightened her up and quiet as a church mouse. Thanks for the video man! 👍✌
I know this is a year later but do you remember how much you tightened it? I know it’s suppose to be precise and I’m just curious if tightening it caused any problems.
Thanks for sharing this. Trying to convince my cousin that the 8.8 Ford we swapped into the rear of my Jeep Cherokee is not set up correctly. Bought it from a guy who sets them up for various vehicle axle swaps and learned he doesn't do any actual shimming or setting preload, he just "wings it" according to my cousin. I believe there's too much endplay in the pinion because it doesn't have adequate shims or not enough preload on the pinion bearing itself. It makes this exact noise every time you let off the throttle. I'll share this video with my cousin since he insisted he didn't need to drive the vehicle to hear it for himself before we dropped it off @ 4WP for some other work to be done. Last night he told me I should just drive it through the break in period because 4WP tearing into it is going to cost me more money. Uh, I'd rather have them tear it apart and set them up right than have an issue with it down the road, like on the HIGHWAY. Hindsight is 20/20, no wonder the guy sells his 8.8's so cheap. Guess it's gonna cost me isn't it... : (
Had a U joint break apart when my wife was driving on the freeway in my 1995 dodge ram 1500 5 speed. It broke at the rear axle and the drive shaft was flinging around hitting against the fuel tank which luckily had a steel shield around it since it was 4x4. That protected it but the transfercase was cracked and broken. The drive shaft flew out from under the truck and slid across 3 lanes of traffic. Got it back but man that was a shitshow. Luckily there was very light traffic and nobody got hurt.
It reminds me of an old '71 F150 my dad had. 360 3 on the tree with first gear out! Learned how to drive with it. Probably had 300k hard miles on it. They don't make them like that anymore. Probably lucky to get 10 mpg with it. Just add gas and 30wt oil to it and run the snot out of it! Miss him and that old truck.
America is a "throw-away" economic model. with A Debt based Currency, we have artificially inflated our economy. This is unsustainable when people can no longer pay the interest on that debt. America, The Bill has come due!
Previous owner (yes I know, it's always the previous owner) changed pinion seal but couldn't spring for a new crush sleeve. Thanks guy, by the time I got it, the r&p are trashed.
God I love RUclips. I just put my Volvo 245 rearend back together and took it for a test drive. The whole ride it was smooth and quiet. Parked it for about a hour then went home, and on the way home this exact noise came from the rearend. Found this video and all my worries went away
Lots of guys asking how tight to get that pinion nut if it's loose. Just do it like we done it down in southern Illinois - tighten it just enough to where the threads on the pinion shaft poke out through the front of your radiator about 1/8". That's about right.
These videos are nice but no one seems to post one that has an accurate description of what it sounds like in the cab I usually don’t ride under my car on the highway.
The symptoms here look and sound exactly like Chrysler recall P77: an undersized rear pinion nut. That drive shaft was ready to fall right off the rear differential which would have torn up the gears in the rear differential as well as tearing the transfer case wide open.
Sounds like my partner, and my truck's rearEND TOO. CLEARLY I need to replace it, and I mean both of them!!!! IM SERIOUSLY SERIOUS!!!!!!! AFTER THAT LONG OF TIME, TIME FOR A NEW ONE, OR AN EXCHANGE WILL DO!!!! Thank you very much for sharing this with me.✌️🤠👍. More please.
You probably have it fixed by now? Get the solid spacer kit with shims instead of using the crush sleeve to adjust your pinion bearing preload. I had the same problem with mine. I was going to just buy another axle from a wrecking yard. I couldn't find an axle that had good preload. I just ended up rebuilding the one I had. I got rid of the G80 and put a True Track instead. It is great! I don't think my G80 was even working because it doesn't spin the tires pulling my boat up the ramp. It had 130k on it,clutches were probably worn out. That's another problem with the G80. It doesn't even last the life of the vehicle.
EXACTLY the same sound, when i let off the gas,too...especially when going under 100 km/h....I had my rear differential "replaced" by some idiots ... W211 , E200 CDI , 2005 ...Started with whining noise & ended up with this exact situation...visiting them again tomorrow...
@@dennisbanks706 i was going back to them because they had charged me around 1.000 euros...hahaha..and they weren't about to give them back and visit another synergy!
1992 f150 4.9 inline six 5 speed has done this twice in it's life time. The first time @ 175K miles, it got bad enough to take the seal out, and dust was sticking to the oil on the tailgate. We made a shim on a lathe to go under the U joint that pushed back on the outer pinion bearing. By chance we got a good result after tightening the pinion nut tight. The second time it only took a good tightening, at around 400K miles. Still a running truck around the farm today.
Hah, been driving a terminal tractor all year that's made that same nose on deceleration from 15MPH. 10MPH or lower and it's dead silent. Sounds like a damn WWII dive bomber!
Hey Tom! Awesome Video! Thanks for taking the time to set this up and film it! I have the same problem. Not as bad. Only happens when I let off the gas and coast to a stop. I JUST replaced the Pinion Seal and yoke last month. Which is when I noticed this problem. Its not that bad, however I want to get under the truck and tighten it up. My question for you...Do I need to buy a beam style torque wrench to check the rotation of the yoke after I tighten it down? Or is this beam style torque wrench ONLY useable when the gears are out? I'm going to jack it up off ground and remove tires as well to get less load. Which I have been told makes this job easier. I just need to know if its even possible to determine the torque of rotation with everything assembled. Any input is great! Thank you Tom!!
I wish i could provide better input but I had my mechanic do this so I am not sure. You will need the torque wrench to check rotation for sure to make sure its correct. From what i recall he opened the hubs and pulled the axles out a little so that the only resistance was the gears. (This is a 1 ton truck so that's easy to do). I believe it was re-set with the ring in place but originally it was set with the gears out. You will probably get different answers depending on who you talk to, but if you can remove wheels and possible axles I would think you would have enough play to correctly re-set. What vehicle are you working on? Best of luck!
Tom, thank you so much! Just a few days ago I jacked up the truck, for under there with a buddy. Was able to hold the pinion in place with a woodblock that went from the ground to the pinion. And tried to tighten the nut. We got maybe a half a turn on the thing. And that took a LOT. We were using a 1/2 torque wrench. Took the truck for a drive, still the same. Which I believe means I need to continue to tighten this nut down little by little until this noise goes away. I'm stumped on how to get the nut to move. I was told to not use air because I could damage the crush sleeve if I tighten to far. The way that I'm going now does not require a beam style. We're just getting it back to where it was at and judging by noise and drive. 2007 Cadillac Escalade EXT 6.2L AWD Any help is greatly appreciated!!
@@khalil119 May I ask when the car was in neutral and rolling down the road, did you still hear the noise? or the noise was there only when you were in gear. Please advise.
Hahaha, I remember my brother in-law (a master tech ) rebuilt his Cherokee pumpkin and said that was normal. Hahaha, my gut told me not, then I graduated and knew he's confident, but doesn't know everything. 😁😁😁
Mine started with a little noise kinda like this, then a clanking sound, sounded like a rear brake shoe was loose. Not the problem, took off the diff. cover and three pinion teeth fell out in the bucket. I'm sure that is not suppose to happen :(
Take off the drive shaft under you will see a big nut take that off and clean the threads with some brake cleaner next put lock right on the threads then put the nut back on and tighten to spec reattach your driveshaft and that should fix it up There may be damage to the ring and pinion from driving it with it loose and or the crush sleeve may be out of spec or you may have worn pinion bearings but in most cases this fix will work
@@Steeda04SVT If you can get the pinion seal and front bearing right behind it out, than you can probably pull the crush sleeve out that will be behind the front bearing. However it would be better to just pull the complete pinion out. It's in between the two pinion bearings, located inside the differential itself. It's what holds the proper pressure against each of them (preload). To keep them at the right tension,against the bearing races. Its a b**ch to get the crush sleeve down to toques spec. Usually 20-25 inch pounds. I use a press myself and slightly press the new crush sleeve down. I then take the old crush sleeve to measure with, to make sure you do kit go over the limit. Then once installed its easier to bring to torque spec. Done this atleast 5 times now. Never an issue, if done properly.
Best way to find out is to just start breaking her down.👍 first check your u-joints, then pop that pumpkin open and check out your spider gears, then wheel bearings, then the costly one... Pinion & bearing
Bad rear control arms allowing the differential to move. You may have heard a bump or clunk. After movement, the pinion seal may leak. Any differential will overheat and fail without fluid.
Hey Tom, I've got a 2002 RAM 1500 4x4 that just started making whirring noise out of the blue. Jacked the rear end up and it still makes this noise, (thought it was a bad tire at first) drive shaft is tight. I was told I was better off getting another rear end if the pinion gear is bad. Not going to buy a new one, but I can't see putting a used one in. Can you tell what condition the differential is in without driving it, besides pulling the cover off and tearing it down? Thanx in advance.
Had a friend that did his. He did it all right but the kit he got had the wrong bearing in it. Check your bearing part numbers before assembling people.
Hmm, If it really changes sound like in this video then it could be driveline related. Probably not pinion because you would most likely hear that at low speeds too or even more. So many things it could be. Try and figure out if its coming from the back or the front then go from there.
Ran over a chain link fence and wrapped it in the driveshaft of an F-250, got it out with a grinder and a wire pull but now its making noises. Pretty sure its the pinion after watching this but it only does it sometimes
I840 heading to work. Mine came apart. Looked like a Humvee hitting an IED. Skidded off the road luckily at an off ramp. Not recommend for the faint of heart.
@@davidvargas7877 its a 2000 chevy silverado 1500 4.3, i did check and everything looks normal im thinking that it might be the pinion bearing or ring bearing 🤔im not a mechanic but im pretty sure its a bearing problem i know how a bearing sounds when they go bad🤔👍
My 00 mustang started making this noise last night after it jerked going 80, then started to smell somthing burning like trans fluid and that noise now happens on decel
my truck just started doing that just now, this is wat I thought it was going to be, sound just like in the video, as I slow down it hums just like your did, thanks for the video
+Kevin Grigsby No, This was the result from an improper installation that loosened up, took it back to the mechanic and he did it for free. I am not sure how much a repair like this would cost but would probably depend on the truck. The larger axles can be more difficult to work with.
So I have a 2007 Ford Edge SEL that have about 150,000 on it and it's starting to make a grinding noise when I accelerate but when I stop and ease on the gas the grinding noise stop. Any suggestions what that could be?
I think I have the same problem possibly, it's just started happening off and on, sounds like gears grinding but as I pull off the road and stop the sound slows down then quits right before I come to a stop without any jerking or anything, then I can take back off again and it won't happen for a little while again, seems to happen when I hit a bump sometimes but it's only done it three times
I have 71 f100 it was leaking so i put a rebuild kit on it and its doing the same thing like the video it runs good takei g off but when i let go of gas pedal or deselarate It makes that noise
In this case, in order to minimize downtime of that truck, I’d pull a complete rear axle, flange to flange from a wrecking yard & rebuild it from the ground up with all new gears, bearings, seals & brakes. ... & I’d definitely use shims to eliminate the crush sleeve if it has one.
How it going tom i have that same problem when i let go off accelerator and coast or come to a stop and slow down aswell i notice when i turn towards the right in a curve street while driving it gets louder any recommendations on how to fix or what it can be? Thank you
That's crazy! I have a 1990 Jaguar XJR 4.0 It works like it should except..When I let off accelerator, It makes a knocking sound in the Rear. Unless I apply the brake a lil bit, it will continue to make that noise until I come to a complete stop!
My Volvo 240 has sounded like that for years now. Bought a new rear to swap in when it finally goes but the noise hasn’t gotten any louder in 60k miles
Some mechanics dont want to study how to adjust the diff very well. It gets detailed. They are part changers, Not techies. They skip the details and micro adjustments needed. I had to rebuild my Jeep diff myself by studying hard how to. 2 mechanics, both w over 10 years as mechanics wanted to put an old used unit due "Too difficult to rebuild them". I said,, I will pay you all, but i dont want an old diff in my Jeep. Then for 200 dollars i rebuild it myself. A mechanic must like to study.
The only way the pinion bearing preload would suddenly loosen up is if the pinion nut starts backing off. You should be able to tighten the nut back up with little force until it bottoms the outer pinion bearing cone out against the crush sleeve or preload spacer/shims. Then stake the nut with a chisel or red locktight the pinion threads to prevent it from backing off again.
@@kamper4140 If you even halfway know what you're doing with gear setup, it's 100% possible. I've done it on many with absolutely no issues whatsoever.
@@tonyelliott7734 how long did they last? Just because it didn't make noise after the repair doesn't mean it lasted. I know how to build diffs and what you are saying could work in theory, but in the long term will likely fail. A solid spacer would be the only way you could safely get away with that.
@@kamper4140 Never had any issues. The crush sleeve/shimmable spacer sets the preload on the pinion bearings. As long as it isn't too tight it's fine. You can re tighten a loose pinion nut without making the preload too tight. Setting up with new bearings the spec for preload is higher than one for used bearings to begin with. I and several other people I know have done it and never had a problem at all.
I think this gets overlooked but lets give a shoutout to GOPRO for making a camera that can do what we have done for generations by ear.
My dad used to tie my feet to the seat and hang me out the window.
@@ronfox5519lol
@@ThatNoFbody-ch9ky hehe
@@ronfox5519 good one 🤣🤣
or with a jack stand on the rear pumpkin.
Clearly google has heard my rear differential and be like... recommend..
😂
😆
You too?
Funny but actually not funnt
Nigga they do
#1 way to fix strange noises:
Make your exhaust louder than any unnatural noise. Fixes everything
That's what the previous owner on my classic car did. no mufflers just straight pipes and well... Now I'm paying the price for it. Oh well my fault for not being more careful
I wish. This kind of noise here is one where you won't be able to even talk inside of the vehicle lol.
Yup, but eventually sprockets and chain inside T-case will blow possibly taking trans with them.
my civic open header for the last 6 months xD havent seen a deer in a long time lol
Then get loud tyres so you don't have to listen to the exhaust
Dude I kid you not I had the same exact noise with my truck after I replace the driveshaft you joints and the yolk. I was about to take it to a shop because I was so pissed off I even contemplated selling it. After watching this I removed the driveshaft and tighten down the bolt next thing I know the noise is gone and it runs perfectly fine. Thank you so much!
What is the year, make, and model that your car or truck? Also, what torqye specification did you tighten the pinion bearing to? Thank you.
bro im fina try what you said because same here i replaced yoke, ujoints and now this is what i got going on same as video and i was contemplating selling the fucker and or sending it to a shop because idk enough about this shit 😂
@Pendragon69608 Make sure you look up the specs though. If you overtighten it you won't have enough backlash and will mess up your rear end.
@@PiniMoo bro i fixedd that shit
@@PiniMoo it was that i didnt use a torque wrench on it the first time so i took off the nut and applied it by hand at first then another quarter turn then used the torque wrench set it to 20 in pounds and voila the problem solved af i already put 600 miles on it since lmao thank you so much
Mate this video just saved me money and stress, I dropped the prop shaft and the pinion nut was loose. Tightened and presto perfect
Where is the pinion nut?
bro was it really that simple ? because i replaced my yoke on my rear end and all of the sudden now it does this and didnt do that be4 and i feel like i didnt tighten something enough or i overtighten it
@@Pendragon69608always count the exposed threads before removing the nut. Then mark the end of the shaft with a paint marker and the nut with a notch or deep scratch.
This way you can tighten it back to its exact position. I usually add about an 1/8 inch tighter past where the original marks line up if it is an older vehicle’s
Has yet to fail me.
@@Snookchaser007 yeah i fixed it last month was pretty easy thank you
Dude, this video saved me. I was just about to order a bearing rebuild kit just before i seen this, and sure enough the pinion nut was near hand tight. Tightened her up and quiet as a church mouse. Thanks for the video man! 👍✌
I know this is a year later but do you remember how much you tightened it?
I know it’s suppose to be precise and I’m just curious if tightening it caused any problems.
@@iansmith8549 no, it's fine. I tightened it back to torque specs. Not a problem since.
@@carlossoto6623 Awesome! Thank you!
@@iansmith8549 anytime bud!
@@carlossoto6623 what is torque spec
The label on the drive shaft outlasted the differential.
Always does
It happens.
Always accelerate, never slow down, problem solved.
Lol hell yea..👍
I prefer to turn the radio up. That fixes all strange noises
I nursed mine home riding the brake
i tried that and my rear end blew apart 1/4 mile from my house...almost made it lol
Ok what you did to resolve it?
You good sir have saved my life, money and time. This has had me, my dad, and a mechanic stumped for 3 days. Just to find out it's a loose nut
Were you getting a bounce on your rear end when going down the hwy?
I am getting the same noise at 80 to 100 km per hrs and some times a bounce
What do I need to look for i as well am getting that noise thought my rear end was mangled so opened it up changed the fluid but no damage
@@ingramtory7 I’m having a popping noise now that I thought was coming from my rear end. Did you get yours resolved
@Bobby Holland ya my control arms on rear end was bad so letting it flop around
Getting the same thing on my 04 grand cherokee. This confirms my diagnosis.
Thanks for sharing this. Trying to convince my cousin that the 8.8 Ford we swapped into the rear of my Jeep Cherokee is not set up correctly. Bought it from a guy who sets them up for various vehicle axle swaps and learned he doesn't do any actual shimming or setting preload, he just "wings it" according to my cousin. I believe there's too much endplay in the pinion because it doesn't have adequate shims or not enough preload on the pinion bearing itself. It makes this exact noise every time you let off the throttle. I'll share this video with my cousin since he insisted he didn't need to drive the vehicle to hear it for himself before we dropped it off @ 4WP for some other work to be done. Last night he told me I should just drive it through the break in period because 4WP tearing into it is going to cost me more money. Uh, I'd rather have them tear it apart and set them up right than have an issue with it down the road, like on the HIGHWAY. Hindsight is 20/20, no wonder the guy sells his 8.8's so cheap. Guess it's gonna cost me isn't it... : (
8.8s are also an off-centre differential. Keep that in mind.
Had a U joint break apart when my wife was driving on the freeway in my 1995 dodge ram 1500 5 speed. It broke at the rear axle and the drive shaft was flinging around hitting against the fuel tank which luckily had a steel shield around it since it was 4x4. That protected it but the transfercase was cracked and broken. The drive shaft flew out from under the truck and slid across 3 lanes of traffic. Got it back but man that was a shitshow. Luckily there was very light traffic and nobody got hurt.
It reminds me of an old '71 F150 my dad had. 360 3 on the tree with first gear out! Learned how to drive with it. Probably had 300k hard miles on it. They don't make them like that anymore. Probably lucky to get 10 mpg with it. Just add gas and 30wt oil to it and run the snot out of it! Miss him and that old truck.
America is a "throw-away" economic model. with A Debt based Currency, we have artificially inflated our economy. This is unsustainable when people can no longer pay the interest on that debt.
America, The Bill has come due!
Previous owner (yes I know, it's always the previous owner) changed pinion seal but couldn't spring for a new crush sleeve. Thanks guy, by the time I got it, the r&p are trashed.
God I love RUclips. I just put my Volvo 245 rearend back together and took it for a test drive. The whole ride it was smooth and quiet. Parked it for about a hour then went home, and on the way home this exact noise came from the rearend. Found this video and all my worries went away
taking a very professional video!
Lots of guys asking how tight to get that pinion nut if it's loose. Just do it like we done it down in southern Illinois - tighten it just enough to where the threads on the pinion shaft poke out through the front of your radiator about 1/8". That's about right.
These videos are nice but no one seems to post one that has an accurate description of what it sounds like in the cab I usually don’t ride under my car on the highway.
The symptoms here look and sound exactly like Chrysler recall P77: an undersized rear pinion nut. That drive shaft was ready to fall right off the rear differential which would have torn up the gears in the rear differential as well as tearing the transfer case wide open.
We need a recall for dodge 3500 pinion bearings failing. Front and rear. Aam 9.25 and 11
@@17madracki17 does the Dana 70 have problems with the pinion nut?
All gas no breaks
I think it is the rear bearing in the exhaust pipe bend. A lot of hot air hits it and causes premature failure under deceleration
Yup, had this happen to my tahoe. Drove me nuts! Even replaced the lug nut spacers and greased the brakes but this finally solved it
Love the name Brother! W.P.!
Sounds like winter air still in the tires or a bad muffler bearing, but what do I know?
fix it with a metric adjustable wrench, solved!
Had an opel when stationed in germany which made the same noise ,ended up getting a new for me rear end out of the salvage yard
Nice.... How much was it to put in? Thanks Sir.
Sounds like my partner, and my truck's rearEND TOO. CLEARLY I need to replace it, and I mean both of them!!!! IM SERIOUSLY SERIOUS!!!!!!! AFTER THAT LONG OF TIME, TIME FOR A NEW ONE, OR AN EXCHANGE WILL DO!!!! Thank you very much for sharing this with me.✌️🤠👍. More please.
Thank you for this video! This is exactly what my 02 Chevy S10 4x4 sounds like when I flip from 4wd to 2wd. Had to get new pinion bearings.
You probably have it fixed by now? Get the solid spacer kit with shims instead of using the crush sleeve to adjust your pinion bearing preload. I had the same problem with mine. I was going to just buy another axle from a wrecking yard. I couldn't find an axle that had good preload. I just ended up rebuilding the one I had. I got rid of the G80 and put a True Track instead. It is great! I don't think my G80 was even working because it doesn't spin the tires pulling my boat up the ramp. It had 130k on it,clutches were probably worn out. That's another problem with the G80. It doesn't even last the life of the vehicle.
This just started happening with my 1989 Caprice Brougham have to get it fixed thanks so much for sharing this video 👍
Pinion bearings need replacement too lol. Been there.
Wow solved I’ve changed and spent money tryna figure what it was any tips how to tighten
EXACTLY the same sound, when i let off the gas,too...especially when going under 100 km/h....I had my rear differential "replaced" by some idiots ... W211 , E200 CDI , 2005 ...Started with whining noise & ended up with this exact situation...visiting them again tomorrow...
some idiots did mine too......
i had same problem..my transmission bolts were loose an so was the flywheels bolts..i got them tightened up an runs better now..
If there idiot's why are you going back to them? (Or i should actually ask why did you go back to them)
@@dennisbanks706 i was going back to them because they had charged me around 1.000 euros...hahaha..and they weren't about to give them back and visit another synergy!
Buy used rear end junkyard and slap it in.
Mine just started doing this. I wasn't sure if it was my exhaust from how smooth pitch of a noise it is from inside. Thats gotta be it. Thank you
It's a blender making a stinky smoothie that only a Cybertronian can handle.
Yep! Replaced and preloaded many of those in my time.
very nice to see what a go pro can find out very good video
This is exactly how my 2011 GT sounds... time to tear it all apart again 😭
1992 f150 4.9 inline six 5 speed has done this twice in it's life time. The first time @ 175K miles, it got bad enough to take the seal out, and dust was sticking to the oil on the tailgate.
We made a shim on a lathe to go under the U joint that pushed back on the outer pinion bearing. By chance we got a good result after tightening the pinion nut tight.
The second time it only took a good tightening, at around 400K miles.
Still a running truck around the farm today.
Be careful tightening your pinion nuts gents. You can over tighten and crush the sleeve a bit and make bearings too tight. Been there done that
Hah, been driving a terminal tractor all year that's made that same nose on deceleration from 15MPH. 10MPH or lower and it's dead silent. Sounds like a damn WWII dive bomber!
Hey Tom! Awesome Video! Thanks for taking the time to set this up and film it! I have the same problem. Not as bad. Only happens when I let off the gas and coast to a stop. I JUST replaced the Pinion Seal and yoke last month. Which is when I noticed this problem. Its not that bad, however I want to get under the truck and tighten it up. My question for you...Do I need to buy a beam style torque wrench to check the rotation of the yoke after I tighten it down? Or is this beam style torque wrench ONLY useable when the gears are out? I'm going to jack it up off ground and remove tires as well to get less load. Which I have been told makes this job easier. I just need to know if its even possible to determine the torque of rotation with everything assembled. Any input is great! Thank you Tom!!
I wish i could provide better input but I had my mechanic do this so I am not sure. You will need the torque wrench to check rotation for sure to make sure its correct. From what i recall he opened the hubs and pulled the axles out a little so that the only resistance was the gears. (This is a 1 ton truck so that's easy to do). I believe it was re-set with the ring in place but originally it was set with the gears out. You will probably get different answers depending on who you talk to, but if you can remove wheels and possible axles I would think you would have enough play to correctly re-set. What vehicle are you working on? Best of luck!
Tom, thank you so much! Just a few days ago I jacked up the truck, for under there with a buddy. Was able to hold the pinion in place with a woodblock that went from the ground to the pinion. And tried to tighten the nut. We got maybe a half a turn on the thing. And that took a LOT. We were using a 1/2 torque wrench. Took the truck for a drive, still the same. Which I believe means I need to continue to tighten this nut down little by little until this noise goes away. I'm stumped on how to get the nut to move. I was told to not use air because I could damage the crush sleeve if I tighten to far. The way that I'm going now does not require a beam style. We're just getting it back to where it was at and judging by noise and drive.
2007 Cadillac Escalade EXT 6.2L AWD
Any help is greatly appreciated!!
@@khalil119 May I ask when the car was in neutral and rolling down the road, did you still hear the noise? or the noise was there only when you were in gear. Please advise.
Hahaha, I remember my brother in-law (a master tech ) rebuilt his Cherokee pumpkin and said that was normal. Hahaha, my gut told me not, then I graduated and knew he's confident, but doesn't know everything. 😁😁😁
Mine started with a little noise kinda like this, then a clanking sound, sounded like a rear brake shoe was loose. Not the problem, took off the diff. cover and three pinion teeth fell out in the bucket. I'm sure that is not suppose to happen :(
Take off the drive shaft under you will see a big nut take that off and clean the threads with some brake cleaner next put lock right on the threads then put the nut back on and tighten to spec reattach your driveshaft and that should fix it up
There may be damage to the ring and pinion from driving it with it loose and or the crush sleeve may be out of spec or you may have worn pinion bearings but in most cases this fix will work
Why would we listen to some F/-\T chics advice?
I had mine explode on me from the preload loosening up. Wish I could post pictures of that
Nice, explains my diff just recently
Just happened to me. 2006 Commander after having 4.11 ring and pinion installed. Back into the shop.
Do you just retighten the nut to the spec's torque value?
Good lord got the devil in that component
Sounds ok to me!! Run it till something breaks!
i’m glad i’m not the only one 💀
Hhahahaha me trying to drive my square body and stick my head under the truck while driving to see what that noise is
Omg I think you just solved my problem!!!
same here
Isauro Bañuelos can the crush sleeve be changed out without pulling the ring and pinion?
Isauro Bañuelos what’s there crush sleeve?
A DANA 40 AND 44 EASY FIX !
@@Steeda04SVT If you can get the pinion seal and front bearing right behind it out, than you can probably pull the crush sleeve out that will be behind the front bearing. However it would be better to just pull the complete pinion out. It's in between the two pinion bearings, located inside the differential itself. It's what holds the proper pressure against each of them (preload). To keep them at the right tension,against the bearing races. Its a b**ch to get the crush sleeve down to toques spec. Usually 20-25 inch pounds. I use a press myself and slightly press the new crush sleeve down. I then take the old crush sleeve to measure with, to make sure you do kit go over the limit. Then once installed its easier to bring to torque spec. Done this atleast 5 times now. Never an issue, if done properly.
Best way to find out is to just start breaking her down.👍 first check your u-joints, then pop that pumpkin open and check out your spider gears, then wheel bearings, then the costly one... Pinion & bearing
Thats it! Thats the exact same damn noise on my '69 Dodge
Ouch... will need a complete rebuild
Seems like this is happening to me or noise more relevant on 5th gear
Exactly how mine sounded and just had the rear diff basically weld itself at 30mph tn but thankfully it didn’t bust anything else on its way out.
Did the loose pinion preload also cause a driveline vibration? I definitely have the roaring noise on deceleration. 😳
Bad rear control arms allowing the differential to move. You may have heard a bump or clunk. After movement, the pinion seal may leak. Any differential will overheat and fail without fluid.
this sound is why I leaned how to service my differential myself.. "The Transmission Shop" couldn't seem to handle working on gears...
More likely they just didnt want to.
I also can spot diff bushings are shot. Which probably caused the bearing extensive wear and here you are.
Had this exact problem tightened the nut never had a problem again
Hey Tom, I've got a 2002 RAM 1500 4x4 that just started making whirring noise out of the blue. Jacked the rear end up and it still makes this noise, (thought it was a bad tire at first) drive shaft is tight. I was told I was better off getting another rear end if the pinion gear is bad. Not going to buy a new one, but I can't see putting a used one in. Can you tell what condition the differential is in without driving it, besides pulling the cover off and tearing it down? Thanx in advance.
Had a friend that did his. He did it all right but the kit he got had the wrong bearing in it. Check your bearing part numbers before assembling people.
I'm starting to get a roaring/grinding noise , when I get to 70 mph sounds good but when I let off at 70 you can the noise
Hmm, If it really changes sound like in this video then it could be driveline related. Probably not pinion because you would most likely hear that at low speeds too or even more. So many things it could be. Try and figure out if its coming from the back or the front then go from there.
Steven I'm having the exact same issue w my Silverado. I'm planning on replacing the chunk with another posi track out of a suburban
@@JulianVR4 did you ever figure it out ?
@@trikxy3422 rear end needed to get overhauled. G80 Govlock. Cost $980 after tax
Ran over a chain link fence and wrapped it in the driveshaft of an F-250, got it out with a grinder and a wire pull but now its making noises. Pretty sure its the pinion after watching this but it only does it sometimes
I840 heading to work. Mine came apart. Looked like a Humvee hitting an IED. Skidded off the road luckily at an off ramp. Not recommend for the faint of heart.
Wow I need to check that out tomorrow cause I changed the rear axle bearing on my truck and i still can hear the same noise🤔 👍
Did you have a chance to check your truck on that bud? And if you don't mind me asking what make , model and year is your truck?
@@davidvargas7877 its a 2000 chevy silverado 1500 4.3, i did check and everything looks normal im thinking that it might be the pinion bearing or ring bearing 🤔im not a mechanic but im pretty sure its a bearing problem i know how a bearing sounds when they go bad🤔👍
Thanks I might have just figured out my issue
When you fix it let us know !!
My 00 mustang started making this noise last night after it jerked going 80, then started to smell somthing burning like trans fluid and that noise now happens on decel
my truck just started doing that just now, this is wat I thought it was going to be, sound just like in the video, as I slow down it hums just like your did, thanks for the video
+Raul Martinez Your welcome, I am glad it helped with the diagnosis. If its only when slowing then it is most likely preload and a pretty easy fix!
+Tom Morton
Did you fix it yourself? How much did it cost?
+Kevin Grigsby No, This was the result from an improper installation that loosened up, took it back to the mechanic and he did it for free. I am not sure how much a repair like this would cost but would probably depend on the truck. The larger axles can be more difficult to work with.
So I have a 2007 Ford Edge SEL that have about 150,000 on it and it's starting to make a grinding noise when I accelerate but when I stop and ease on the gas the grinding noise stop. Any suggestions what that could be?
I think I have the same problem possibly, it's just started happening off and on, sounds like gears grinding but as I pull off the road and stop the sound slows down then quits right before I come to a stop without any jerking or anything, then I can take back off again and it won't happen for a little while again, seems to happen when I hit a bump sometimes but it's only done it three times
This sounds exactly like what my Mazda cx9 is doing. Did you find out what it was?
@@bummollie I must have, to be honest I can't really remember this well but I think it ended up being the u joint on the rearend side.
I have 71 f100 it was leaking so i put a rebuild kit on it and its doing the same thing like the video it runs good takei g off but when i let go of gas pedal or deselarate It makes that noise
No way I just found this video!! I think I’ve found my problem.
This is my issue but i wouldn't call it a whining. More like a grinding when slowing down and applying brakes.
What did your issue end up being. Mine has same exact description
Did you find what the problem was ?
Still dealing with it. Pretty sure it's the carrier bearing or pinion bearing.
In this case, in order to minimize downtime of that truck, I’d pull a complete rear axle, flange to flange from a wrecking yard & rebuild it from the ground up with all new gears, bearings, seals & brakes.
... & I’d definitely use shims to eliminate the crush sleeve if it has one.
My 07 Tundra sounded like that on my since I bought it 7 years ago.... 😅😅😅
Damn my 97 civic starting to sound like that, probs driveshaft or my rear diff going bad. How did you solve that issue?
It's called,(Get ur lazy, young, blk, sorry ass under your vehicle and fix that sht!)
Turn up the radio all’s good 👍
How it going tom i have that same problem when i let go off accelerator and coast or come to a stop and slow down aswell i notice when i turn towards the right in a curve street while driving it gets louder any recommendations on how to fix or what it can be?
Thank you
Idk 🤷♂️ what’s going on but I love the video 💆
I had this happen on my 1965 GMC. All I did was take it all apart, peen the nut, then torque it back on. Hasn’t given me any more trouble, yet.
Did the noise develop over time or did it just appear suddenly? I have a 1975 Cadillac which has had this issue since I bought it.
@@boerenbrommer Suddenly.
My 92 xj is making a similar noise but not at all that brutal or consistent. Only when I left off the gas for a couple seconds.
That's crazy! I have a 1990 Jaguar XJR 4.0 It works like it should except..When I let off accelerator, It makes a knocking sound in the Rear. Unless I apply the brake a lil bit, it will continue to make that noise until I come to a complete stop!
My 97 chevy truck made this sound...car shaked like crazy and then my rear driveshaft came out while I was driving.😳
What was the problem and how much did it cost you ??
hmm volvo 245 is making a similar rattle noise. its like an awful clatter/rattle and a tick when coasting
Thanks for posting this. Fwiw dodge & chevy suck quality wise. I learned hard way with Chevy.
If it’s as bad as this point you’ll need to replace all the internals in the differential ?
Doubt it.
No, but they will be rebuilding that transfer case
On my chey 1989 is all the times when you give it gas it gets louder but sounds just like this I thought it was a wheel bearing
Am I hearing a creaking cracking sound or do you just mean the smooth slight metal rubbing sound?
My Volvo 240 has sounded like that for years now. Bought a new rear to swap in when it finally goes but the noise hasn’t gotten any louder in 60k miles
Some mechanics dont want to study how to adjust the diff very well. It gets detailed. They are part changers, Not techies. They skip the details and micro adjustments needed. I had to rebuild my Jeep diff myself by studying hard how to. 2 mechanics, both w over 10 years as mechanics wanted to put an old used unit due "Too difficult to rebuild them". I said,, I will pay you all, but i dont want an old diff in my Jeep. Then for 200 dollars i rebuild it myself. A mechanic must like to study.
Thanks for uploading this i needed it
Went and checked mine was hand loose tightened it no more noise. Was really loud to
The only way the pinion bearing preload would suddenly loosen up is if the pinion nut starts backing off. You should be able to tighten the nut back up with little force until it bottoms the outer pinion bearing cone out against the crush sleeve or preload spacer/shims. Then stake the nut with a chisel or red locktight the pinion threads to prevent it from backing off again.
Fat chance if you have a crush sleeve and it backs off you need to replace the crush sleeve
@@kamper4140
If you even halfway know what you're doing with gear setup, it's 100% possible. I've done it on many with absolutely no issues whatsoever.
@@tonyelliott7734 how long did they last? Just because it didn't make noise after the repair doesn't mean it lasted. I know how to build diffs and what you are saying could work in theory, but in the long term will likely fail. A solid spacer would be the only way you could safely get away with that.
@@kamper4140
Never had any issues. The crush sleeve/shimmable spacer sets the preload on the pinion bearings. As long as it isn't too tight it's fine. You can re tighten a loose pinion nut without making the preload too tight. Setting up with new bearings the spec for preload is higher than one for used bearings to begin with. I and several other people I know have done it and never had a problem at all.
@@tonyelliott7734 u are absolutely correct.
I don’t understand the crush sleeve so I use the Solid spacer and shim setup
Pinion at the front though, this is rear diff and driveshaft
Hello Tom, you might be answer to my coast noise
thank you
Mines doing this but it sounds way worse than this. Has a grinding squeak to it even while going forwards.
Ok I had this noise and my jeep took a poop. What could happen if a pinion is lose and not fixed? Will it break my rear dif?
My old Galaxie made a similar noise, turned out to be axle bearings
Dose that got a front driveshaft