@@ChrisCrossed I keep mine indoors too but our roads and weather are terrible - pot holes everywhere, puddles and mud. Off the roads it gets worse. I'd love to live somewhere with a good climate and suitable roads.
I got sick of the same problem, upgraded to 48v battery with 40amp bms and its running strong for a while now. Well worth dual battery if you do loads of miles should make them last longer as well
Dude heat the shrink wrap on the wires it’ll look a lot better that’s not dispose to stay like that just heat the black cover on wire it’s heat shrink ! But good job on video but just fyi
Much respect for the execution of this great project. In retrospect, do you think it was worth it to do this? I was considering biting the bullet and buying a new battery from Espin (the replacement battery with the higher Watt-hour rating). While costing slightly more than your set-up (if we include your labor, it is equivalent), the benefit is that I can leave it at home for short trips and carry it when I plan to do long trips. I suppose you can do that with your setup, by leaving home the original battery, but the beauty of the interchangeable nature of the OEM second battery is that I would have 3 options: Short ride = original only, Medium ride = the larger Watt-hour only, Long ride = both with one in backpack/rack trunk. Plus it all looks cleaner. Anyway, thanks for the super useful video!
Thanks for watching. I'd say it was still worth it. Even if you got a 2nd battery you get more more AH with the after market one installed. On my initial tests I got about 65 miles in range. Its a super easy add on and the 2nd battery can easy be removed with a simple unplugging of the cable. I was going to add a rear bag anyway so the only thing you really see is the wiring.
Thank you for sharing this video! This is awesome. As I have two Nestas, and may attempt this one day. Do you know how many miles alone you can get on the new aftermarket battery?
Hey hows it going? Hope all is well. I'm just thinking. Will that adapter fit in with the control box? I'm pretty sure if you arrange the wires and place the control box up against the wall flat, you may be able to fit the adapter inside as well. then use 2 one foot extensions to the 20Ah battery. Be a cleaner installation. But then again you may have already done this by now, considering this video is 2 years old.
Should have just cut the end of connector ran wire as long as you need, then solder back on the connector. Very easy and you don’t need to buy all those extensions. I don’t like daisy chaining and it would look super neat and still quick disconnect. I’m sure you could crimp if you’re not comfortable soldering. Thank you for the video. I’m taking delivery of my first ebike tomorrow and it has a 14.5 mah battery so I’m trying to get the lay of the land of how ebikes are wired up so I can do this. Im Good with electronics and soldering so no trouble there.
@@ChrisCrossed I understand. It seems like it could be scary and more invasive. But all you’d have to lose is a cut extension. But I have no doubt you would have trouble, it’s very easy. Just make sure you tin the wires and follow a few simple steps and the wire just soaks up the solder. It’s better than having multiple connections daisy chained. But you’ll be okay. I thank you for the video. It was great
@@ChrisCrossed controller specs: Rated voltage: 48v Maximum current: 20A Rated current: 10A Low voltage protection: 41v Throttle adjustment voltage: 1.2v - 4.4v What can you recommend for secondary battery? And batter parallel connector specs? Thank you
With the right extensions you can put everything in the bag instead of it hanging in the back...ive got a lectric 2.0 with two batteries...one in frame one in basket in back and the connector is tucked neatly in the lock holder. Cant even tell i have two batteries going to add a third 48v 30ah battery for a total of 50ah....plenty of power and range. I keep both charged fully before i ride !!! Thanks to ElectricAllWheel.
its better adding the 2nd pack to the front tube (frame)... instead the rear rack lower danger of "front end wobble of death" ... (yes you also can run 3 packs,)
are there any restrictions on the typ of battery I can use...I was told that the battery should be greater than maximum power(w) and maximum current amp(amp) of the battery should be greaterthan or equal to the power and current of the motor....is this true...I want to add a battery to my zugo rhino which is 48v 21ah and the motor is 750w.....and I neeed some advice on what would be a feasible battery to purchase....or does it matter when u use the blender?
@@ChrisCrossed I have one last question....the batteries I've been looking at say don't use with a Shimano motor.....I believe my zugo rhino will have a Shimano motor....it's says Shimano Altus 7 Speed Trigger Shifter Drivetrain.....does that mean the motor is Shimano?
Do you have to charge each battery seperley with a dual battery voltage connector or will both battery's charge with charger connected to either battery? other words, will both battery's charge with charger to one battery?
Chris, I think you will hit 80 miles fairly easy if your a pedaler. I'm running a Bolton combiner on a Aventon Aventure with the 15ah stock battery and a 13ah add on and I did 87 miles @ 15-16 MPH assist 3 on a trail with quite a few mild climbs. I finished with 14% left and the last 8 miles was in assist 5 because I was running out of light. I think you will really enjoy the extra distance making it capable of touring. It does make the bike a bit heavier on the kickstand but once moving it really doesn't feel that bad. Note: I did upgrade my brakes because at home I ride many steep grade river canyons in the west Sierras.
great informative video, with the 2 cables coming out from under the controller, I would have seen if I could have threaded them between the rear fender and the frame, to make it more neat in appearance then zip tied together as I could see on the bike that there was a little room here that could have been done...time index 11:26...let me know what you think with zip tying the dual connector to the frame, looking from this side of the bike there seems to be room between frame and original battery to place a zip tie under the under the orginal battery and then around the connector making it more tighter, yes I would see about putting velcro behind it as well, to prevent metal on metal, and the clanging but this is a suggestion only.
I’ve hidden the dual battery connector since this first video in the bag itself by gotta longer extension cable. You could also mount it where u suggest but would rather hide it myself
Hi DFG, the interesting thing is...when you use one of these combiner devices it actually over doubles your distance. Think of it like running a flashlight on extra high setting, it is nice and bright but short lived. Same light on the lowest setting and it will most likely last much longer. Add a number of more cells to ebike and it will sip from each cell more slowly without over stressing the whole lot of them, thus the more longevity provided you ride it in a decent manner. My wife has two 15ah batteries and switches them out like you do and I can out distance her every-time (by a lot, 15 to 20 miles) with this combiner even though her batteries equals a total of 15ah +15ah = 30ah and mine 15ah + 13 Ah = 28ah. Also much less drop off towards the last of the energy. Her combiner is on the way!
Hi you doing my friend just wondering how your nesta is doing with the extra battery upgrade does it work it give you longer ride mileage? just planing to do the same you did, i already bought the trabsfer device from bolton bikes, make another video about yiur upgrade thanks.
@@diggingforgold4150 I haven't been able to ride much since doing the upgrade, Its gotten cold and its Xmas week. But my guesstimate is 70-80 miles of range. In the spring I will test that in some warmer weather. I love riding the Nesta so it will be fun to go farther on it.
I used a black knee high dress sock to slide over the controller and wires. It hides everything. Put a small slit in the toe to get the wires through. It stretches to accommodate the whole mess.
Great video. Your battery is a nice shape to put into your bag. I am interested in a decent rear rack bag that would simply allow me to carry a 2nd battery instead of wire it in. the problem is that my Shark 52V, 17.5AH battery is too big for most bags. Searching for a nice bag set up or even just a mount to simply bring a 2nd battery along for the ride.
I purchased affordable hoverboard batteries equipped with built-in Battery Management Systems (BMS) that match the voltage of the original battery, almost a fraction of the stock battery's cost. When the main battery's charge depletes, I switch off the main battery and connect my secondary battery. This method effectively doubles the travel distance. I've been utilizing both batteries for over 1000 miles without any issues. Therefore, I don't understand the need to consider a battery with a different voltage. Additionally, using a blender doesn't seem like a practical option, as it would be challenging to monitor both batteries while pedaling.
Yes I am working with Electric All Wheel. For their kits they are recommending 48v 12 AH. I like your QWW 48v 20 AH and want to make sure one of their kits work with this battery. I have emailed them. I will lost after I hear from them. Thanks for all your awesome videos. Very informative and very well explained and demoed.
If I were you I would hide that silver box inside the bag and then use longer cables. This way you have much better protection against water and it would also look much better overall!
@@ChrisCrossed make your own Chris. Just cut the connector off with about 4 inches and get matching awg wire. Solder or crimp the length you need and heat shrink. Very easy and will held the cleanest most proper setup
I have an eSpin Nero. (I think it's the non-folding version of that bike you have.) Will these same steps follow through? I tried to go to the bolton site but it seems they are sold out of the connectors. Will the DATEx2 work?
I have a yamee fat bear 750w folding bike with the battery inside the frame,would it be the same or similar to add the spare battery to the controller,the controller looks the same,I’m getting 20 miles on a 14.5 ah battery and I need more😊or do I buy a spare same style battery I already have thanks 😊
Nice upgrade...how do now charge your connected batteries? Can you put a charger on one battery and another on the extra while having that parallel connector connected?
I suspect the dual battery box is essentially two high powered 30 amp diodes so each battery does not affect the other. This should allow each batter to remain connected while using the charger meant for each.
@@HostileHST Never assume when it comes to hoping these china batteries have anything to protect them from blowing up. The way I hook my dual batts safely but still have to charge each batt separately: ruclips.net/video/9zILIYZwDAE/видео.html
@@videoforgeeks I don't assume anything, just think it's possible and if the arguement means, keeping a strict eye on things, I totally agree with that. However, I do appreciate your comment as it is very important to be safe and to do whatever it takes to be safe. I still stand by my comment despite the reply. Out of fairness though, I will watch the link provided mate.
I have a 750w 48V 24.5A electric bike. I have plans to add another 48v 17.5A battery. The controller can be set up to 25A max. How many amps are the battery parallel connectors?
Great video. I didn't hear you make mention of the system voltage. That's kind of important. I recently bought an AKEZ 48v dual battery e-bike and so far, l absolutely love it. It's kind of a knockoff of the Super 73, but at a considerable savings. I want to tell you and your viewers that the 48v setup is the only one l know of that will work with a 52v battery upgrade. The controller is rated at 20a, so there's no need to replace it. In the future, I may add a front motor and have been thinking about what the ideal setup would be. I'm kinda leaning towards two controllers, which would allow for using the half twist throttle on the right and installing a simple thumb throttle on the left. I can turn the front on and off at will. The rear wheel (750w) will receive the 52 volts. I think that a 350-500w 48v motor would the adequate for the front. That arrangement also means I will be able to charge them separately, but simultaneously. I may move the existing controller from under the seat so I can put that 52v battery back there. It will also lower the center of gravity. Any suggestions or thoughts on what l may have overlooked and want to consider doing? ps: i purchased one of those bolten adapters for my previous e-bike. worked like a charm. i highly recommend it.
Do the batteries have to be the same amp rating? Same ebike manufacturers don't have this parallel setup built-in with a frame mounted socket so you can just buy a battery to plug and go.
You don’t mind losing the back rack? How come you didn’t get a shark or something and put it where the Down tube is? I’m just curious bc I’m either going to forego my mounting bosses to add a shark to the down tube or buy a whole new rear rack with a removable battery built in the middle and take my current rear rack off. My battery is in the same spot as your stock one. I don’t want to give up the precious rack on my cargo bike. Where will my gym bag go? Or my groceries? Lowes run? Or McDonald’s for the kids. Lol. Front basket won’t be enough for me. I’m really trying to replace local car errands so it’s important to me. I’m actually thinking of adding stackable collapsing crates to the rear. Keep them folded and when need to haul I have two decent size crates stacked on top of one another
just 1 question though in relation to the battery connector is it possible to just run off the 1 battery and have the other battery switched off, then when that that battery runs down in power, turn that one off then switch over to the 2nd battery...this is the setup I wanting to do with my ebike...like to add a 2nd battery but NOT have them both on together at the same time.
A friend of my did that and he overcharged the battery and after a couple hours the battery blew up - this is very dangerous Ur better off using the bigger amp battery than have two connected prepare for it to blow up if yiu do that with two batteries connected And catch fire
I'd like to know if anyone has actually connected up two battery's in parallel & had them explode or have other detrimental effects that the people flogging those devises claim because at the moment I am hearing conflicting advice.
Why can't I just unplug my1st battery and then plug in the 2nd battery?. That way I will be saving the high cost of a connecter and it will work. I have a 48v 1000w 20ah battery. I plan on getting a 2nd battery of the same and doing just what I said.
Because the two batteries, in parallel are sharing the workload from the motor, you actually get more range than using the batteries one at a time. You also get less voltage sag, and a bit better acceleration. I have both of my bikes running dual batteries this way, no more range anxiety!
How close of voltage do the batteries have to be before the dual battery connector, connects the two batteries. Within 1 volt, .5 volt, .2volt? When it connects them is there a resistor? They all are metal and appear to have heat syncs, to disipate heat, but why? Why are they creating heat? Any info on anything, any links?
Thanks for your video. Could you tell me what is the advantage of connecting the batteries with this parallel connector when I can do it manually with a switch when one of the two batteries is empty
What is the reach on the espin? I am 5’7” and am worried the handlebars will be uncomfortable for me to reach. Will they adjust backwards an inch or so?
Thank you for the video Chris. I’m going to do the same thing for my Nesta. Might add a 3rd battery too.
Thanks for watching, go for it!
How clean is that bike - has it ever been used? lol
Mine is a disgrace but I live in muddy England.
got over 800 miles on it, i keep my bikes in garage
@@ChrisCrossed I keep mine indoors too but our roads and weather are terrible - pot holes everywhere, puddles and mud. Off the roads it gets worse.
I'd love to live somewhere with a good climate and suitable roads.
Nice conversion, I may need to do this in the future. My 36v just eats batteries. Almost 11k miles and I am on my third battery that is shot.
I got sick of the same problem, upgraded to 48v battery with 40amp bms and its running strong for a while now. Well worth dual battery if you do loads of miles should make them last longer as well
Definitely would like to see you do a video with the LECTRIC XP 2.0. been thinking about doing this. Saw a 1.0 and it's pretty good.
The Lectric apparently has a Deans connector not an XT90 unfortunately
@@ChrisCrossed is it possible to redo the wiring of the deans connector?
@@shotxcj2655 I assume so but that is beyond my expertise
@@shotxcj2655 definitely doable
@@jaredz9507 I already did on my bike,just wating for my extra battery.
The only problem I see is security. How can you theft proof it? If you stop at a store you might come back to a stripped bike.
Some things you just cant protect. Battery is hidden, thats about it.
I never leave my battery unattended. If you can't take it with you, don't take on the ride.
Dude heat the shrink wrap on the wires it’ll look a lot better that’s not dispose to stay like that just heat the black cover on wire it’s heat shrink ! But good job on video but just fyi
Thx for the tip
I used 3 way switch 2 months now "On-Off-On" $10 on ama. On this switch you can use 48v and 52v and different AH battery too.
Cool, good to know.
Much respect for the execution of this great project. In retrospect, do you think it was worth it to do this? I was considering biting the bullet and buying a new battery from Espin (the replacement battery with the higher Watt-hour rating). While costing slightly more than your set-up (if we include your labor, it is equivalent), the benefit is that I can leave it at home for short trips and carry it when I plan to do long trips. I suppose you can do that with your setup, by leaving home the original battery, but the beauty of the interchangeable nature of the OEM second battery is that I would have 3 options: Short ride = original only, Medium ride = the larger Watt-hour only, Long ride = both with one in backpack/rack trunk. Plus it all looks cleaner. Anyway, thanks for the super useful video!
Thanks for watching. I'd say it was still worth it. Even if you got a 2nd battery you get more more AH with the after market one installed. On my initial tests I got about 65 miles in range. Its a super easy add on and the 2nd battery can easy be removed with a simple unplugging of the cable. I was going to add a rear bag anyway so the only thing you really see is the wiring.
Just get a second battery and switch back and forth.
This way I never have to switch, more convenient.
Thank you for sharing this video! This is awesome. As I have two Nestas, and may attempt this one day. Do you know how many miles alone you can get on the new aftermarket battery?
Hey hows it going? Hope all is well. I'm just thinking. Will that adapter fit in with the control box? I'm pretty sure if you arrange the wires and place the control box up against the wall flat, you may be able to fit the adapter inside as well. then use 2 one foot extensions to the 20Ah battery. Be a cleaner installation. But then again you may have already done this by now, considering this video is 2 years old.
It might fit but to be honest it doesnt matter, hide it down there or in my bag.
Should have just cut the end of connector ran wire as long as you need, then solder back on the connector. Very easy and you don’t need to buy all those extensions. I don’t like daisy chaining and it would look super neat and still quick disconnect. I’m sure you could crimp if you’re not comfortable soldering. Thank you for the video. I’m taking delivery of my first ebike tomorrow and it has a 14.5 mah battery so I’m trying to get the lay of the land of how ebikes are wired up so I can do this. Im Good with electronics and soldering so no trouble there.
Thanks I’m not much of a soldering expert so plug and play is how I did it.
@@ChrisCrossed I understand. It seems like it could be scary and more invasive. But all you’d have to lose is a cut extension. But I have no doubt you would have trouble, it’s very easy. Just make sure you tin the wires and follow a few simple steps and the wire just soaks up the solder. It’s better than having multiple connections daisy chained. But you’ll be okay. I thank you for the video. It was great
Can i ask.
I have Minal M1 pro ebike stock 48v 16ah battery and 750watts motor.
Can i use 48v 14ah or 48v 20ah as secondary battery?
You need to pull out the controller and see what kind of connections you have and buy a battery blender.
@@ChrisCrossed controller specs:
Rated voltage: 48v
Maximum current: 20A
Rated current: 10A
Low voltage protection: 41v
Throttle adjustment voltage: 1.2v - 4.4v
What can you recommend for secondary battery? And batter parallel connector specs? Thank you
@@ChrisCrossed XT60 connection
Why not use the extensions to relocate the parallel connector to inside the battery bag 🤔 ?
Yeah i have done that since that video.
I think you should just hide all of that in the bag for a much cleaner look and protection.
This is what i done ☑️
I would’ve used a sealable Gromit, to put a hole in the bag, as it would help with its water resiliency.
I thought the same when I saw it. But if I was doing this I would actually buy a rack battery back and mount it under the rack
Cool setup. Very nicely explained. Now can you charge both battries at the same time with one Charger?
Thanks that’s the one thing you can’t do, each has its own charger.
With the right extensions you can put everything in the bag instead of it hanging in the back...ive got a lectric 2.0 with two batteries...one in frame one in basket in back and the connector is tucked neatly in the lock holder. Cant even tell i have two batteries going to add a third 48v 30ah battery for a total of 50ah....plenty of power and range. I keep both charged fully before i ride !!! Thanks to ElectricAllWheel.
Yeah now just have it all in the rear bag with an extension cable
its better adding the 2nd pack to the front tube (frame)... instead the rear rack
lower danger of "front end wobble of death" ... (yes you also can run 3 packs,)
I don’t have any wobble in this setup, looks better this way.
are there any restrictions on the typ of battery I can use...I was told that the battery should be greater than maximum power(w) and maximum current amp(amp) of the battery should be greaterthan or equal to the power and current of the motor....is this true...I want to add a battery to my zugo rhino which is 48v 21ah and the motor is 750w.....and I neeed some advice on what would be a feasible battery to purchase....or does it matter when u use the blender?
You just can’t mix voltage if you have a stock 48v battery you can add another 48v of any size
@@ChrisCrossed can I go up to 52v when I have 48v? Thank u by the way
@@thexproductions90s no you can’t mix a 48 with a 52
@@ChrisCrossed got it
@@ChrisCrossed I have one last question....the batteries I've been looking at say don't use with a Shimano motor.....I believe my zugo rhino will have a Shimano motor....it's says Shimano Altus 7 Speed Trigger Shifter Drivetrain.....does that mean the motor is Shimano?
I'm running two 48v 1500w hub motors off one 48v 20ah battery.....
That’s a lot of power draw, have you thought about upgrading to a 52volt?
Do you have to charge each battery seperley with a dual battery voltage connector or will both battery's charge with charger connected to either battery? other words, will both battery's charge with charger to one battery?
Must charge each separately, but they drain together in tandem.
Hey 👋 buddy…….what you doing…….🤓
Chris, I think you will hit 80 miles fairly easy if your a pedaler. I'm running a Bolton combiner on a Aventon Aventure with the 15ah stock battery and a 13ah add on and I did 87 miles @ 15-16 MPH assist 3 on a trail with quite a few mild climbs. I finished with 14% left and the last 8 miles was in assist 5 because I was running out of light. I think you will really enjoy the extra distance making it capable of touring. It does make the bike a bit heavier on the kickstand but once moving it really doesn't feel that bad. Note: I did upgrade my brakes because at home I ride many steep grade river canyons in the west Sierras.
That's awesome range, thanks for the comparison.
Chris I’m looking into doing the same to my Aventure could you please give me some details on how to.
Hey hows the quality QWW batery thinking about getting one
zero problems with it
Any idea if a 30 amp bms battery and a 40 amp bms battery can be used with these battery blender ??
I believe so yeah
great informative video, with the 2 cables coming out from under the controller, I would have seen if I could have threaded them between the rear fender and the frame, to make it more neat in appearance then zip tied together as I could see on the bike that there was a little room here that could have been done...time index 11:26...let me know what you think with zip tying the dual connector to the frame, looking from this side of the bike there seems to be room between frame and original battery to place a zip tie under the under the orginal battery and then around the connector making it more tighter, yes I would see about putting velcro behind it as well, to prevent metal on metal, and the clanging but this is a suggestion only.
I’ve hidden the dual battery connector since this first video in the bag itself by gotta longer extension cable. You could also mount it where u suggest but would rather hide it myself
Here’s the other video ruclips.net/video/x-NOpvL55XQ/видео.html
Very interesting upgrade i ride mine with an extra battery once the one in using die i swap the other one. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching, no more range anxiety...
Hi DFG, the interesting thing is...when you use one of these combiner devices it actually over doubles your distance. Think of it like running a flashlight on extra high setting, it is nice and bright but short lived. Same light on the lowest setting and it will most likely last much longer. Add a number of more cells to ebike and it will sip from each cell more slowly without over stressing the whole lot of them, thus the more longevity provided you ride it in a decent manner. My wife has two 15ah batteries and switches them out like you do and I can out distance her every-time (by a lot, 15 to 20 miles) with this combiner even though her batteries equals a total of 15ah +15ah = 30ah and mine 15ah + 13 Ah = 28ah. Also much less drop off towards the last of the energy. Her combiner is on the way!
Hi you doing my friend just wondering how your nesta is doing with the extra battery upgrade does it work it give you longer ride mileage? just planing to do the same you did, i already bought the trabsfer device from bolton bikes, make another video about yiur upgrade thanks.
@@diggingforgold4150 I haven't been able to ride much since doing the upgrade, Its gotten cold and its Xmas week. But my guesstimate is 70-80 miles of range. In the spring I will test that in some warmer weather. I love riding the Nesta so it will be fun to go farther on it.
Good to know!
So can I ask how the battery has been holding up? I have been thinking about getting it. So many sketchy stores on Amazon selling batteries.
Battery still works as advertised
@@ChrisCrossed cool I bought it. Unfortunately it's not plug and play on my bike gonna have to go mission impossible on this Jabroni.
I used a black knee high dress sock to slide over the controller and wires. It hides everything. Put a small slit in the toe to get the wires through. It stretches to accommodate the whole mess.
Great idea
Great video. Your battery is a nice shape to put into your bag. I am interested in a decent rear rack bag that would simply allow me to carry a 2nd battery instead of wire it in. the problem is that my Shark 52V, 17.5AH battery is too big for most bags. Searching for a nice bag set up or even just a mount to simply bring a 2nd battery along for the ride.
Thanks, yeah there arent really any battery bags, gonna have to find some other type of bag to fit it in.
I purchased affordable hoverboard batteries equipped with built-in Battery Management Systems (BMS) that match the voltage of the original battery, almost a fraction of the stock battery's cost. When the main battery's charge depletes, I switch off the main battery and connect my secondary battery. This method effectively doubles the travel distance. I've been utilizing both batteries for over 1000 miles without any issues. Therefore, I don't understand the need to consider a battery with a different voltage. Additionally, using a blender doesn't seem like a practical option, as it would be challenging to monitor both batteries while pedaling.
Hello there I have build in 36v 16ah battery and I want to add another 36v 20ah battery! What dual battery parallel connector amps I need to buy ??
Why do so many ebikes look like beta clown bikes? Who is designing these?
The Chinese
Thanks man.
I'm busy as well now with the same project.
All parts are on the way.
Only one question, how do you charge?
Two chargers, the Amazon battery will come with one.
@@ChrisCrossed thank you sir 😃
How can I do this if my batteries have Anderson connectors and my BBSHD has Anderson connectors?
You'll have to do some wire cutting unfortunately.
@@ChrisCrossed Ok sounds good. It looks like I will have to figure out how to do that. Thanks
Hi Chris - great video on how to up the range of eBike. Can this set up be used with any make of eBike like Radrover 5 or Lectric XP 3.0?
Check out the Electric All Wheel channel they sell kits for the Lectric Xp
Yes I am working with Electric All Wheel. For their kits they are recommending 48v 12 AH. I like your QWW 48v 20 AH and want to make sure one of their kits work with this battery. I have emailed them. I will lost after I hear from them. Thanks for all your awesome videos. Very informative and very well explained and demoed.
If I were you I would hide that silver box inside the bag and then use longer cables. This way you have much better protection against water and it would also look much better overall!
Yeah I need to get longer extensions to do that...
@@ChrisCrossed make your own Chris. Just cut the connector off with about 4 inches and get matching awg wire. Solder or crimp the length you need and heat shrink. Very easy and will held the cleanest most proper setup
I have an eSpin Nero. (I think it's the non-folding version of that bike you have.)
Will these same steps follow through? I tried to go to the bolton site but it seems they are sold out of the connectors. Will the DATEx2 work?
I believe the Datex will work yes
@@ChrisCrossed Should I be concerned with the amp rating? I was reading the back of the controller unit and noticed it was really low
Not that I’m aware of.
Nice work! I'm boosting my Rad Rover with a similar setup. Your video helped. Thanks for sharing!
Good to hear! Thanks for watching
I have a yamee fat bear 750w folding bike with the battery inside the frame,would it be the same or similar to add the spare battery to the controller,the controller looks the same,I’m getting 20 miles on a 14.5 ah battery and I need more😊or do I buy a spare same style battery I already have thanks 😊
You'd have to buy an after market battery and a dual battery connector that has the right type of plug.
@@ChrisCrossed 👍
I added a 2nd pack ontop the frame of my folding bike... in frame pack was only 10 Ah.. added anothe 18 Ah ontop nearly triple the range
Nice upgrade...how do now charge your connected batteries? Can you put a charger on one battery and another on the extra while having that parallel connector connected?
I suspect the dual battery box is essentially two high powered 30 amp diodes so each battery does not affect the other. This should allow each batter to remain connected while using the charger meant for each.
I am curious about the charging situation too
If I use the original charging port of the bike will it charge both batteries at once?
Asking the same can u charge two batteries at once with balance discharger
@@HostileHST Never assume when it comes to hoping these china batteries have anything to protect them from blowing up. The way I hook my dual batts safely but still have to charge each batt separately: ruclips.net/video/9zILIYZwDAE/видео.html
@@videoforgeeks I don't assume anything, just think it's possible and if the arguement means, keeping a strict eye on things, I totally agree with that. However, I do appreciate your comment as it is very important to be safe and to do whatever it takes to be safe. I still stand by my comment despite the reply. Out of fairness though, I will watch the link provided mate.
Will this work for e scooters batterys
Theoretically i guess but where would you mount it?
When the batteries are connected and all finished can you charge both with your original charger. Good video. Thanks
Thanks for watching, you still have to charge both of them separately…
@@ChrisCrossed need to disconnect them from the device? Or not?
@@tvstartcompilation3995 nope charge in place
I have a 750w 48V 24.5A electric bike. I have plans to add another 48v 17.5A battery. The controller can be set up to 25A max.
How many amps are the battery parallel connectors?
I think they are 30 amp so you should be fine
Great video.
I didn't hear you make mention of the system voltage.
That's kind of important.
I recently bought an AKEZ 48v dual battery e-bike and so far, l absolutely love it. It's kind of a knockoff of the Super 73, but at a considerable savings.
I want to tell you and your viewers that the 48v setup is the only one l know of that will work with a 52v battery upgrade. The controller is rated at 20a, so there's no need to replace it.
In the future, I may add a front motor and have been thinking about what the ideal setup would be. I'm kinda leaning towards two controllers, which would allow for using the half twist throttle on the right and installing a simple thumb throttle on the left. I can turn the front on and off at will. The rear wheel (750w) will receive the 52 volts. I think that a 350-500w 48v motor would the adequate for the front.
That arrangement also means I will be able to charge them separately, but simultaneously. I may move the existing controller from under the seat so I can put that 52v battery back there. It will also lower the center of gravity.
Any suggestions or thoughts on what l may have overlooked and want to consider doing?
ps: i purchased one of those bolten adapters for my previous e-bike. worked like a charm. i highly recommend it.
48 volts, pretty standard for most ebikes.
Do the batteries have to be the same amp rating? Same ebike manufacturers don't have this parallel setup built-in with a frame mounted socket so you can just buy a battery to plug and go.
Yes though there are a few dual battery connectors that allow you to mix voltages (52, 48 etc)
You don’t mind losing the back rack? How come you didn’t get a shark or something and put it where the Down tube is? I’m just curious bc I’m either going to forego my mounting bosses to add a shark to the down tube or buy a whole new rear rack with a removable battery built in the middle and take my current rear rack off. My battery is in the same spot as your stock one. I don’t want to give up the precious rack on my cargo bike. Where will my gym bag go? Or my groceries? Lowes run? Or McDonald’s for the kids. Lol. Front basket won’t be enough for me. I’m really trying to replace local car errands so it’s important to me. I’m actually thinking of adding stackable collapsing crates to the rear. Keep them folded and when need to haul I have two decent size crates stacked on top of one another
The bag in the back can still hold stuff, I also mount my lock on the rack. I could prob get paniers for the sides if I need more storage options.
just 1 question though in relation to the battery connector is it possible to just run off the 1 battery and have the other battery switched off, then when that that battery runs down in power, turn that one off then switch over to the 2nd battery...this is the setup I wanting to do with my ebike...like to add a 2nd battery but NOT have them both on together at the same time.
Sure you can unplug either battery and just run on one. The original battery actually has a switch installed
A friend of my did that and he overcharged the battery and after a couple hours the battery blew up - this is very dangerous Ur better off using the bigger amp battery than have two connected prepare for it to blow up if yiu do that with two batteries connected
And catch fire
Its a safe setup, dont wory.
Do you have to reset preferences on LCD display of total voltage? Nice to know to avoid overkill on components between motor and controller.
No setting changes needed.
Thanks! This is great!
You're welcome!
I'd like to know if anyone has actually connected up two battery's in parallel & had them explode or have other detrimental effects that the people flogging those devises claim because at the moment I am hearing conflicting advice.
If done correctly you’ll be fine, in my case I did no wire cutting it’s all plug and play
Hows this still going? I aint that confident in these dual parralel connectors
It works perfectly. Zero problems.
nice looking bike
Thanks!
Why can't I just unplug my1st battery and then plug in the 2nd battery?.
That way I will be saving the high cost of a connecter and it will work. I have a 48v 1000w 20ah battery. I plan on getting a 2nd battery of the same and doing just what I said.
You could but you’d have to remove the cover off the controller box in order to do that, the extras 60 bucks fir the parallel battery is worth it.
Because the two batteries, in parallel are sharing the workload from the motor, you actually get more range than using the batteries one at a time. You also get less voltage sag, and a bit better acceleration. I have both of my bikes running dual batteries this way, no more range anxiety!
How close of voltage do the batteries have to be before the dual battery connector, connects the two batteries. Within 1 volt, .5 volt, .2volt? When it connects them is there a resistor? They all are metal and appear to have heat syncs, to disipate heat, but why? Why are they creating heat? Any info on anything, any links?
Watch the video of the parallel connector
Here ruclips.net/video/9zILIYZwDAE/видео.html
Could you do this same thing to an lectric xp 2.0
You could but you'd have to cut wires, it doesnt use XT90 connections.
Great vid! do you think the extra battery will give you slight more acceleration power? or will it only give you extended range?
Both
Thanks for your video. Could you tell me what is the advantage of connecting the batteries with this parallel connector when I can do it manually with a switch when one of the two batteries is empty
I'd say it eliminates that need for a switch because it drains the batteries equally.
Also both batteries together can still work to a higher discharge because they are sharing load current.
How do you kill power to power to the battery?
Just unplug
What is the reach on the espin? I am 5’7” and am worried the handlebars will be uncomfortable for me to reach. Will they adjust backwards an inch or so?
The reach is not bad it says 18 inches, min seat eight is 33 inches.
@@ChrisCrossed thank you so much for answering. can the handlebars adjust to come a little closer?
@@joyceturner2549 no
What if I put bmx handlebars in exchange for the regular ones that come with it? Would that help? I watched a video showing how to do it.
@@joyceturner2549 yes you can certainly do that
Would it be possible to do something like this with the lectric?
Open the controller box and see what kind of connection you have, if it has an XT90 and a hole to thread the new cable yes.
$400 just buy extra battery
I bought a battery with more capacity than what Espin sells. 20Ah vs 10AH