Over the years, I've developed my own method for long journeys with a single battery. I bought a fast 10A charger instead of the factory 2A one, and I simply take breaks every 2...5 hours at restaurants or gas stations where I can easily recharge the battery quickly while having lunch.
yes, according to various guides it shortens the battery life a bit, so I try to avoid it, but I compensate for it by saving on additional nights@@leventedanka6764
@@maanman3573so iphones aren't meant to be charged as they don't come with chargers? You're not meant to use cases, headphones, screen protectors etc as they don't come with them?? Don't be daft.
I just currently got into ebikes. Man, i have really enjoy riding my ebike. I just want to go further. Thanks for the video. This has been very useful 👌 👍
I have the extended range 14ah on my lectric 2.0 & 3.0 but then added a $50 dual battery blending splitter and rear rack battery that is 17ah so have about 30ah on them which is amazing!!
Sorry, I haven't edited that video together just yet, should be out sometime soon though. The 2nd battery is done and installed on the Expand's rear rack. Just made some hardware from various strong ties that I had in the garage. Has worked great so far!
Super clean entertaining content and helpful. Most motors will tolerate higher voltage second battery but a "shunt hack" of existing controller (videos on other channels) or another higher amp capacity controller and it's required interface components ; throttle, PAS hall / torque sensors. The multi battery blenders are a great source. Do affiliate links. Thanx
My bike is a Hittroad Safari 350w 36v 10.4AH which doesn't give me nearly enough distance and I have to turn back well before I'm ready to quit riding. The wiring does not have any connectors, it is hardwired into the controller. When I looked at it, there was just a lot of wires all smashed in there together and there did not seem to be any easy way to add a 2nd battery. Can you help with any advice? The guy from Hittroad never got back to me, so I don't know who else to ask.
I don't actually sell these Datex adapters and the sites that I link to aren't affiliated with me, sorry. I've really only seen the 3 battery adapter available directly through Datex or from the Big Game Bikes store. They can be pricey and BGB sells it for around $250 to $725 US, depending on the specs.
For the most part the voltage would stay the same as long as all the batteries connected together were the same voltage since these battery adapters link in parallel. Three 48v batteries linked together would perform like one big larger capacity 48v battery.
@@ElectricRidesUT Thanks for the quick reply! I want to add a removable 12v/10ah battery to my scooter. Which would give me a 60v26ah battery I would appreciate it if you could explain how soon I could do that
Most of the time you won't have to bother doing anything with the controller since everything is adapted and running as 1 big battery before the power makes it way to the controller side of things.
I know for sure that the DATEx2 adapter would work with DD motors however you would need to disable the regen braking. The cheaper battery adapters should work, but again, regen would cause issues.
It should be possible, yes but it's a bit more difficult to accomplish when the battery and controller are integrated into the frame like the X3000 appears to have.
Nope, the battery blender is only required if you want the 2 batteries to act as 1 big one. Otherwise, you'd just need to swap out the two batteries on the same single battery tray or have some sort of 2 battery tray set up that you switch from battery A to battery B. I've even seen some people simply unplug one battery tray connection (to the controller) and just plug it into the other battery tray.
Ok people. FYI. You can have a, spare battery on a bike rack or in a backpack and swap them out when needed. And be sure to use same battery as came with your bike. Batteries are very dangerous if not used with equipment not designed with
I totally agree, don't see any advantage to adding a different battery. I have been asking that same question. I think people that are pushing to add a different battery are in it to sell something.
Hey. I have a 48v battery (14ah) and controller and was wondering if I can add a 52v battery connected in parallel with this 48v controller? Very helpful video BTW!
Most 48v controllers will be able to handle 52volt batteries but it's not a universal thing. I'd suggest reaching out to the ebike manufacturer for their input but I doubt they'd be helpful. What kind of ebike do you have?
You need the correct device to handle different voltage batteries in parallel, The battery blender or DateX2 is what you should buy if using 52v and 48v batteries together. Most other devices you need to use the same voltage batteries. Also, Your controller will have to support a 52v battery.. Chances are the internals will handle it, As most 48v controllers will handle up to 60v (although you may shorten the life of the capacitors), But it maybe programmed not to except a 52v and throw you an error. Do some research on your bike, But If I were you I'd just stick with 48v you not missing out much. The Aventon level 2 is quite closed up right? That'll be some work for ya lol
My HJM Trike has a place ment for a second battery. The seat of my trike flips up and it has mounting holes meat to install a holder for a second battery and has a plug ment for it. I thought how nice it would be have a second one but I never go over 30 miles on my bike. But if I take more than one trip a day it would be nice not to have to charge the main battery a second time.
Excellent presentation. Liked, subscribed, and rang that bell. The background music was unobtrusive and there was good volume balance, but I recommend to most RUclipsrs not to have music.
I bought the emoko c93 dual motor 1000w front 1000w rear i want to add another battery what battery would be the best to buy and how would i fit this? It is 48v told a 23ah on it now but the description said 20ah i dont think this will be enough because i do 45 mile or more a day some times
Yep, I've used the one that they carry for awhile now and it's a pretty good little unit. Definitely recommend it if you don't want to spend the $$ on a DATEx adapter.
When paralel connecting 2 48v 16ah batteries, do I don't have to change the motor controller? My motor controller says: 23A current limit. I guess I will have 16 x 16 = 32 A current?
the Ah (amp hours) rating in batteries is different from the amp current limits on controllers. Controllers will limit their own max amperage automatically so it's normally not something you'd have to mess with. However, battery adapters will usually have an amp limit so it's best to make sure your controller isn't pulling more amps out of the batteries than the adapter can handle.
@@ElectricRidesUT Thanks bro. I have a original 48v 16 amp battery on my Engwe engine pro. And I ordered a 48V 20 amp, a dual battery connector and all wires. I can't wait to build it. I'm not really a technical guy but I have the motivation to make it work. I just came home after a ~ 20 km ride. Thanks for the info! 👌🏽👑
*My battery connector is rated 40 amp so I must in the green I hope. My Engwe engine pro does have regenerate power however I never use it. I always drive in sports mode 5. (Max) I did sent a email to Engwe to ask if I can turn the regenerate system off. Still waiting for their response.
@@ElectricRidesUT You should see my face, I crashed last week when driving drunk to a tree. I have a huge wound in my face and a concussion. My girlfriend is very mad because I ordered all this stuff while sitting home and she take care of me 😂 I love her and she she loves me. I'm 33 but sometimes still a kid.
I've heard of that as well but really haven't experienced it. They do make anti-spark versions of the XT60 and XT80 (usually has a green marking) but I've found as long as you dissipate any residual power in the system while the battery is disconnected it's not an problem.
Yes, since your controller was able to handle a 48-volt supply, just be aware that the bike will not go as fast as the motor will be spinning at a slower rate.
Lol I just connected a 48v to my roadrunner I think the original was 48v not sure on ah but longer capacity battery that I put in I used on a 1800w gokart project thing I built that been in peaces for ages now anyways because I had ran it flatten set it for so long the voltage was under but then I’ve literally connected both batteries together and now it’s charging with the other battery charger. Should I be worried? Considering the bike motors are only 300/500 duel hubs lol
I currently have a 48v system and my bike is already set up to take dual batteries. (Dost Kope) - Since Dost went out of business last year I can't purchase their high-priced 2nd battery, so I want to add a 2nd, 3rd party battery. And since my bike is already set up for a dual battery system I am assuming I don't need any kind of battery balancer? Also, the 2nd battery plug is not anything I've seen available, so I think I would need to remove the plug and just use the wire that currently feeds the plug to wire in the new plug or battery directly. correct?
I've purchased an ebike here in Australia that's similar to the Aerial Riders GRIZLY...only thing is it has a 48v 21aH Samsung battery, and was wondering if by adding a 2nd 48v 21aH Samsung battery thinking on the downtube like the Grizzly, would it void the warranty and which would work the best turn on 1 battery at a time or use both batteries together, as I would be doing a lot of riding doing Uber Eats, I would want to be getting at least 8-10 hrs out of the battery, so was wondering which way I should wire it in.... Q2 - by adding the 2nd battery, do I need to change out the controller, or what needs to be done there, as I will be adding a 12v 6000mah setup for the 12 lighting on the bike, but want to add the 2nd battery literally for added range, can you recommend a way of doing where it doesn't void the bikes warranty?
In my experience, most ebike manufacturers will void your warranty with any major modifications, especially electrical ones involving a 3rd party battery or parts. I've seen most ebike modders wait until their OEM warranty is expired before they start doing the real crazy stuff. If you are adding a 2nd 48v battery, you shouldn't need to do a controller swap since it will really be the same voltage running to it (48 volts) it will just have a larger "pool" of power to draw from (amp hours or watt hours) over the standard battery setup.
Why not just buy a 2nd battery that is for that bike. All you would have to do is take the one out and put the other one in. It would not be anymore weight than putting a different type of battery on the bike and you would not need to do any wiring or add anything. None of that makes any sense to me. I have yet to see the advantage to adding a different type of battery. Just use the same type, when it gets low on power exchange. That would take about a minute tops. People stop anyway for different reasons. Rest their legs, take pictures, check maps, take a drink, rest their sore butt, eat a snack, the list goes on and on. Don't understand adding a different type of battery and all the messing around with wiring, splitters, controllers etc....??? I guess maybe I am too practical.
I have a Raliegh Cadent IE that has no pigtails for battery connections.The battery plugs straight into a frame plug with four connectors. Is there a blender that will let me solder the battery positive and negative connections straight to the four prong plug in the bike and still just use the original two connectors for the ❤Controller? There is room to solder to those plugs and still plug in the battery but will it work?
I'm not too familiar with Raliegh ebikes but from what I can see, it looks like it has a standard Bosch mid-drive moto/battery setup. So it will have cabling, but it will be pretty difficult to get to it since it will be integrated into the frame and are nowhere near as modular.. Unfortunately, I haven't seen anything that you are describing. Sorry.
I have an e-bike that have 48v 12.5 ah battery . I am thinking to upgrade to a 52v 17.5ah battery . Will it work or it will cause me trouble. Or should I get a battery with 48v 17.5 ah
@@ashmit4480 You should be able to, yes. But to be sure I always suggest reaching out to the manufacturer to see what they recommend. You may get a canned response but sometimes you can get some helpful info
I have a 48v battery and a 750-1200 watt motor. My question is, is it possible to connect an additional battery, without having to upgrade the hub motor as well as the controller?
This is my worry as well! I’m not sure adding 2 different voltage batteries will be safe for my controller since the power will increase! Please advise! I’m about to order a dual battery discharge connector but I will wait til I hear back!
Everyone wants bigger batteries and I'm going lighter and smaller now at 36v 10ah to reduce weight. Weight is the killer of ebikes if you want to do anything fun.
I would think if you are worried about the 10 lbs of extra weight of the battery, most people could just lose weight. 75% of the people are over weight and many are obese. Maybe they should not even be riding an ebike. I doubt 10 lbs of extra weight on an ebike, which is heavy to begin with would make any significant difference in range. Lots of other ways to cut down on the weight.
You're a baby. I'm literally biking from toledo ohio to nyc currently and I have so much weight on my bike, it feels like a motorcycle, and I still go 40+ miles a day. You can handle ten more pounds....
I have a now discontinued Sondors Fold Z (Mini) with a 36v 8.7ah battery. Would I be able to add a 48v 20ah battery just by using the battery blender or would I have to change the controller as well?
I purchased affordable hoverboard batteries equipped with built-in Battery Management Systems (BMS) that match the voltage of the original battery, almost a fraction of the stock battery's cost. When the main battery's charge depletes, I switch off the main battery and connect my secondary battery. This method effectively doubles the travel distance. I've been utilizing both batteries for over 1000 miles without any issues. Therefore, I don't understand the need to consider a battery with a different voltage. Additionally, using a blender doesn't seem like a practical option, as it would be challenging to monitor both batteries while pedaling.
I emailed you several times and now found out how to reply on your RUclips channel. As I have asked before and maybe others have an answer. Instead of trying to add another battery where you have to add a splitter, do wiring, etc... Why not just purchase a 2nd battery and exchange it when you are low on power on the first battery? You could carry as many extra batteries as you would want.
Ah yep I just replied to you a bit ago. It definitely is an option and probably one that the majority of people would rather do instead of messing with ebike wiring or possibly voiding their warranty. I imagine most people go that route instead of hooking everything up!
Has anyone tried bumping a 48V with a 12V in series for a 60v push on a 48V motor? 1 yr Edit: Ebay helped me replace my 11.2AH with a 20AH, same voltage. It fits inside my T42 folder and easily doubles my range. Original 11.2AH battery is carried in the car for an extra 20 miles...
I haven't seen anyone go above a 52v battery on the stock Rad controller/motor since that's the max most anyone is willing to push through the default electronics. Would be interesting to see though!
@@ElectricRidesUT I've seen 52V added to 48V with a 'blender'... Does that feed either 48V or 52V ? Or does a blender put them together for a 50V average...?
@@johnw65 From what I've been told - the blender will pull from the 52v battery until it's equal with the 48v battery and then use both equally. So, it's still better to have the 2 batteries at equal voltage so reduce the voltage sag.
@@ElectricRidesUT My rack bag is ordered and on the way. It will house my 2nd battery. I just haven't decided which way to go with it. 52V20AH with a blender may be the most range/pwr combination. But, a 48V20AH can just be spliced in w/o a blender... Bag will also carry all chargers, tubes, tire repair and tools.
Technically, if it's an adapter that works for different battery voltages it will work, but you really won't get a lot of extra range out of the 36v as your 2nd. Most of these battery adapaters will drain the battery that has more voltage first until they are at equal voltage levels, and then drain them equally. A 48v battery will be "full" at about 54v and a 36v battery is "full" around 42v. So your main battery will drain down until it's about 20% full before the 2nd battery will even start to be used. A bike that comes with a 48v battery won't be designed to work with a 36v system, so once your main battery is dead, it will really struggle running off the 36v battery alone.. or not work at all.
Can't seem to find a video that simply talks about swapping out the entire battery for another not adding a second🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️ adding a second battery to your bike just double the weight of your bike🤦🏽♂️😡 and will tear your shocks and/or suspension up if you have any, I don't so it would just break my spokes again because I used to ride with an extra battery in my trunk but not anymore. My problem is I bought a battery from Amazon (unbeknownst not returnable🤦🏽♂️) thinking it was going to be an easy swap but of course the ends aren't compatible🤷🏽♂️🤷🏽♂️
@@ElectricRidesUT the way you stated it didn’t make sense. The phrase “second most common” has a generally understood meaning that is different from what you wrote in the comments. It makes sense but you have to explain it, which means it doesn’t make sense
I should have made mention, sorry. Both batteries will need to be charged separately. Most battery adapters won't handle current going into the batteries, just out.
This is not a proper tutorial. The majority of the video just about ways to attach it to the frame, something that most of us can figure out on our own.
Does anyone remember the generator we had for the lights in the old days the front tire . Has anyone developed a generator that runs on the front tire and can it charge your battery while riding your bike. This sounds like the perfect way to charge.
Over the years, I've developed my own method for long journeys with a single battery. I bought a fast 10A charger instead of the factory 2A one, and I simply take breaks every 2...5 hours at restaurants or gas stations where I can easily recharge the battery quickly while having lunch.
Does that not ruin the battery though?
yes, according to various guides it shortens the battery life a bit, so I try to avoid it, but I compensate for it by saving on additional nights@@leventedanka6764
I'm no expert but I think if those bikes were meant to use fast chargers they would probably sell them with the bike...
@@maanman3573so iphones aren't meant to be charged as they don't come with chargers? You're not meant to use cases, headphones, screen protectors etc as they don't come with them??
Don't be daft.
@@jjmmjj9999 iphones aren't ebikes buddy, don't be obtuse
Excellent educational video. The information that I was looking for!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you much!
I just currently got into ebikes. Man, i have really enjoy riding my ebike. I just want to go further. Thanks for the video. This has been very useful 👌 👍
I have the extended range 14ah on my lectric 2.0 & 3.0 but then added a $50 dual battery blending splitter and rear rack battery that is 17ah so have about 30ah on them which is amazing!!
Can you send me the link for the battery combiner?
This is William from Unit Pack Power,nice video
Awesome, thank you much!
@@ElectricRidesUThello I was wondering if there is a way to add said second battery to the atlas ebike by jetson
Exactly what I needed to know! Extremely informative video! Thanks for posting this👍👍
Did you make part 2? What would be the best way to install a battery rack on the radexpand?
Sorry, I haven't edited that video together just yet, should be out sometime soon though. The 2nd battery is done and installed on the Expand's rear rack. Just made some hardware from various strong ties that I had in the garage. Has worked great so far!
Super clean entertaining content and helpful.
Most motors will tolerate higher voltage second battery but a "shunt hack" of existing controller (videos on other channels) or another higher amp capacity controller and it's required interface components ; throttle, PAS hall / torque sensors. The multi battery blenders are a great source. Do affiliate links. Thanx
Thank you. Appreciate that info!
My bike is a Hittroad Safari 350w 36v 10.4AH which doesn't give me nearly enough distance and I have to turn back well before I'm ready to quit riding. The wiring does not have any connectors, it is hardwired into the controller. When I looked at it, there was just a lot of wires all smashed in there together and there did not seem to be any easy way to add a 2nd battery. Can you help with any advice? The guy from Hittroad never got back to me, so I don't know who else to ask.
did you end up making part 2?
Do you sale the 3 ebike battery connector
Like the Datex3?
I only saw the 2 battery connector on your website
I don't actually sell these Datex adapters and the sites that I link to aren't affiliated with me, sorry. I've really only seen the 3 battery adapter available directly through Datex or from the Big Game Bikes store. They can be pricey and BGB sells it for around $250 to $725 US, depending on the specs.
What about radrover dolphin tray battery would others dolphin battery will fit into radrover dolphin tray battery?
Hi I would love to know if it also raises the electrical voltage?
For the most part the voltage would stay the same as long as all the batteries connected together were the same voltage since these battery adapters link in parallel. Three 48v batteries linked together would perform like one big larger capacity 48v battery.
@@ElectricRidesUT Thanks for the quick reply! I want to add a removable 12v/10ah battery to my scooter. Which would give me a 60v26ah battery I would appreciate it if you could explain how soon I could do that
If your scooter is 60v, also the second battery must be 60V. If you plug a 10v one it will likely catch fire@@יונתן-ה7נ
How long to fully change ?
Do you necessarily need a controller
Most of the time you won't have to bother doing anything with the controller since everything is adapted and running as 1 big battery before the power makes it way to the controller side of things.
Will this work with a direct drive motor
I know for sure that the DATEx2 adapter would work with DD motors however you would need to disable the regen braking. The cheaper battery adapters should work, but again, regen would cause issues.
Excellent video, easy to understand, no wasted words, and helpful information. You have a new Sub with me, thank you!
Awesome, thank you!
Is it possible to install an extra battery on the LANKELEISI X3000 MAX 2000W Dual Motor bike?
It should be possible, yes but it's a bit more difficult to accomplish when the battery and controller are integrated into the frame like the X3000 appears to have.
does it have to be the same volts and amps?
do i need a blender to use just one at a time ?
Nope, the battery blender is only required if you want the 2 batteries to act as 1 big one. Otherwise, you'd just need to swap out the two batteries on the same single battery tray or have some sort of 2 battery tray set up that you switch from battery A to battery B. I've even seen some people simply unplug one battery tray connection (to the controller) and just plug it into the other battery tray.
Is the voltage are the same can you just use a basic y adapter?
Ok people. FYI. You can have a, spare battery on a bike rack or in a backpack and swap them out when needed. And be sure to use same battery as came with your bike. Batteries are very dangerous if not used with equipment not designed with
The problem is finding the same battery. Otherwise sure, I'd do that.
I totally agree, don't see any advantage to adding a different battery. I have been asking that same question. I think people that are pushing to add a different battery are in it to sell something.
@@happykamp789 Not having to carry it, and lessening the strain on the battery when draining and refilling it exclusively.
Is there a kit that you could waterproof your bike system?
Hey. I have a 48v battery (14ah) and controller and was wondering if I can add a 52v battery connected in parallel with this 48v controller?
Very helpful video BTW!
Most 48v controllers will be able to handle 52volt batteries but it's not a universal thing. I'd suggest reaching out to the ebike manufacturer for their input but I doubt they'd be helpful. What kind of ebike do you have?
@@ElectricRidesUT Aventon Level 2.
Do NOT parallel different battery voltages! You would have to use a DC-DC converter.
You need the correct device to handle different voltage batteries in parallel, The battery blender or DateX2 is what you should buy if using 52v and 48v batteries together. Most other devices you need to use the same voltage batteries. Also, Your controller will have to support a 52v battery.. Chances are the internals will handle it, As most 48v controllers will handle up to 60v (although you may shorten the life of the capacitors), But it maybe programmed not to except a 52v and throw you an error. Do some research on your bike, But If I were you I'd just stick with 48v you not missing out much. The Aventon level 2 is quite closed up right? That'll be some work for ya lol
Dual battery discharge kit from ElectricAllWheel.
My HJM Trike has a place ment for a second battery. The seat of my trike flips up and it has mounting holes meat to install a holder for a second battery and has a plug ment for it. I thought how nice it would be have a second one but I never go over 30 miles on my bike. But if I take more than one trip a day it would be nice not to have to charge the main battery a second time.
What external battery would you recommend to buy?
Excellent presentation. Liked, subscribed, and rang that bell.
The background music was unobtrusive and there was good volume balance, but I recommend to most RUclipsrs not to have music.
Awesome, thank you! Yes, sorry the levels were a bit off in my early videos.
just have one extra on your backpack, swap when needed
The hard part is locating the extra battery. I was told it would take 2 months to ship to US from China. That's nuts.
I bought the emoko c93 dual motor 1000w front 1000w rear i want to add another battery what battery would be the best to buy and how would i fit this? It is 48v told a 23ah on it now but the description said 20ah i dont think this will be enough because i do 45 mile or more a day some times
Area 13 ebikes sells a dual battery parallel connector.
Yep, I've used the one that they carry for awhile now and it's a pretty good little unit. Definitely recommend it if you don't want to spend the $$ on a DATEx adapter.
Please, where I cane find it
My e-bike currently has a 48v 12:8 ah battery, I can add a 48v and 20ah battery together
When paralel connecting 2 48v 16ah batteries, do I don't have to change the motor controller?
My motor controller says: 23A current limit.
I guess I will have 16 x 16 = 32 A current?
the Ah (amp hours) rating in batteries is different from the amp current limits on controllers. Controllers will limit their own max amperage automatically so it's normally not something you'd have to mess with. However, battery adapters will usually have an amp limit so it's best to make sure your controller isn't pulling more amps out of the batteries than the adapter can handle.
@@ElectricRidesUT Thanks bro.
I have a original 48v 16 amp battery on my Engwe engine pro.
And I ordered a 48V 20 amp, a dual battery connector and all wires.
I can't wait to build it. I'm not really a technical guy but I have the motivation to make it work.
I just came home after a ~ 20 km ride.
Thanks for the info! 👌🏽👑
*My battery connector is rated 40 amp so I must in the green I hope.
My Engwe engine pro does have regenerate power however I never use it. I always drive in sports mode 5. (Max)
I did sent a email to Engwe to ask if I can turn the regenerate system off.
Still waiting for their response.
@@ElectricRidesUT You should see my face, I crashed last week when driving drunk to a tree. I have a huge wound in my face and a concussion. My girlfriend is very mad because I ordered all this stuff while sitting home and she take care of me 😂
I love her and she she loves me. I'm 33 but sometimes still a kid.
Is there a certain process for disconnecting a xt60 from the battery too the controller? cause i heard they can spark and short out the battery.
I've heard of that as well but really haven't experienced it. They do make anti-spark versions of the XT60 and XT80 (usually has a green marking) but I've found as long as you dissipate any residual power in the system while the battery is disconnected it's not an problem.
So simply put, if my bike is 48v 16ah and I buy a 46v 15ah bike rack battery. It's just the case of wiring and buying an adapter?
Depends on the communication with the display.
my original battery is 48v but can a 36v battery be used instead ?
Yes, since your controller was able to handle a 48-volt supply, just be aware that the bike will not go as fast as the motor will be spinning at a slower rate.
Lol I just connected a 48v to my roadrunner I think the original was 48v not sure on ah but longer capacity battery that I put in I used on a 1800w gokart project thing I built that been in peaces for ages now anyways because I had ran it flatten set it for so long the voltage was under but then I’ve literally connected both batteries together and now it’s charging with the other battery charger. Should I be worried? Considering the bike motors are only 300/500 duel hubs lol
I currently have a 48v system and my bike is already set up to take dual batteries. (Dost Kope) - Since Dost went out of business last year I can't purchase their high-priced 2nd battery, so I want to add a 2nd, 3rd party battery. And since my bike is already set up for a dual battery system I am assuming I don't need any kind of battery balancer? Also, the 2nd battery plug is not anything I've seen available, so I think I would need to remove the plug and just use the wire that currently feeds the plug to wire in the new plug or battery directly. correct?
This balancer is different from the current listed ok the website
Which balancer are you referring to?
I've purchased an ebike here in Australia that's similar to the Aerial Riders GRIZLY...only thing is it has a 48v 21aH Samsung battery, and was wondering if by adding a 2nd 48v 21aH Samsung battery thinking on the downtube like the Grizzly, would it void the warranty and which would work the best turn on 1 battery at a time or use both batteries together, as I would be doing a lot of riding doing Uber Eats, I would want to be getting at least 8-10 hrs out of the battery, so was wondering which way I should wire it in....
Q2 - by adding the 2nd battery, do I need to change out the controller, or what needs to be done there, as I will be adding a 12v 6000mah setup for the 12 lighting on the bike, but want to add the 2nd battery literally for added range, can you recommend a way of doing where it doesn't void the bikes warranty?
In my experience, most ebike manufacturers will void your warranty with any major modifications, especially electrical ones involving a 3rd party battery or parts. I've seen most ebike modders wait until their OEM warranty is expired before they start doing the real crazy stuff.
If you are adding a 2nd 48v battery, you shouldn't need to do a controller swap since it will really be the same voltage running to it (48 volts) it will just have a larger "pool" of power to draw from (amp hours or watt hours) over the standard battery setup.
Why not just buy a 2nd battery that is for that bike. All you would have to do is take the one out and put the other one in. It would not be anymore weight than putting a different type of battery on the bike and you would not need to do any wiring or add anything. None of that makes any sense to me. I have yet to see the advantage to adding a different type of battery. Just use the same type, when it gets low on power exchange. That would take about a minute tops. People stop anyway for different reasons. Rest their legs, take pictures, check maps, take a drink, rest their sore butt, eat a snack, the list goes on and on. Don't understand adding a different type of battery and all the messing around with wiring, splitters, controllers etc....??? I guess maybe I am too practical.
Oh, there's a typo in the title: strike "do" and insert "to" . . .
Hah, I can't believe that went unnoticed for so long, thank you!
I have a Raliegh Cadent IE that has no pigtails for battery connections.The battery plugs straight into a frame plug with four connectors.
Is there a blender that will let me solder the battery positive and negative connections straight to the four prong plug in the bike and still just use the original two connectors for the ❤Controller?
There is room to solder to those plugs and still plug in the battery but will it work?
I'm not too familiar with Raliegh ebikes but from what I can see, it looks like it has a standard Bosch mid-drive moto/battery setup. So it will have cabling, but it will be pretty difficult to get to it since it will be integrated into the frame and are nowhere near as modular.. Unfortunately, I haven't seen anything that you are describing. Sorry.
I have an e-bike that have 48v 12.5 ah battery . I am thinking to upgrade to a 52v 17.5ah battery .
Will it work or it will cause me trouble. Or should I get a battery with 48v 17.5 ah
Most controllers that are set up to work on a 48v system will be able to handle a 52v battery but unfortunately, it's not always a given.
@@ElectricRidesUT so I can buy a 52v or not?
@@ashmit4480 You should be able to, yes. But to be sure I always suggest reaching out to the manufacturer to see what they recommend. You may get a canned response but sometimes you can get some helpful info
I have a 48v battery and a 750-1200 watt motor. My question is, is it possible to connect an additional battery, without having to upgrade the hub motor as well as the controller?
Yep, you shouldn't have to do any upgrades to the motor or controller when adding a second battery to most ebikes.
@@ElectricRidesUT thank you!
yes as long as the 2nd battery is also the same voltage.
This is my worry as well! I’m not sure adding 2 different voltage batteries will be safe for my controller since the power will increase! Please advise! I’m about to order a dual battery discharge connector but I will wait til I hear back!
Everyone wants bigger batteries and I'm going lighter and smaller now at 36v 10ah to reduce weight. Weight is the killer of ebikes if you want to do anything fun.
I would think if you are worried about the 10 lbs of extra weight of the battery, most people could just lose weight. 75% of the people are over weight and many are obese. Maybe they should not even be riding an ebike. I doubt 10 lbs of extra weight on an ebike, which is heavy to begin with would make any significant difference in range. Lots of other ways to cut down on the weight.
You're a baby. I'm literally biking from toledo ohio to nyc currently and I have so much weight on my bike, it feels like a motorcycle, and I still go 40+ miles a day. You can handle ten more pounds....
I have a now discontinued Sondors Fold Z (Mini) with a 36v 8.7ah battery. Would I be able to add a 48v 20ah battery just by using the battery blender or would I have to change the controller as well?
Not sure honestly. Most 48v controllers will be able to handle the upgrade to 52v but not sure about the 36v ones. Sorry.
I purchased affordable hoverboard batteries equipped with built-in Battery Management Systems (BMS) that match the voltage of the original battery, almost a fraction of the stock battery's cost. When the main battery's charge depletes, I switch off the main battery and connect my secondary battery. This method effectively doubles the travel distance. I've been utilizing both batteries for over 1000 miles without any issues. Therefore, I don't understand the need to consider a battery with a different voltage. Additionally, using a blender doesn't seem like a practical option, as it would be challenging to monitor both batteries while pedaling.
I emailed you several times and now found out how to reply on your RUclips channel. As I have asked before and maybe others have an answer. Instead of trying to add another battery where you have to add a splitter, do wiring, etc... Why not just purchase a 2nd battery and exchange it when you are low on power on the first battery? You could carry as many extra batteries as you would want.
Ah yep I just replied to you a bit ago. It definitely is an option and probably one that the majority of people would rather do instead of messing with ebike wiring or possibly voiding their warranty. I imagine most people go that route instead of hooking everything up!
Have you made a video showing how n where to connect a substitute, second battery to the controller? Thx, Dave
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you!
Thanks!😊
Has anyone tried bumping a 48V with a 12V in series for a 60v push on a 48V motor?
1 yr Edit: Ebay helped me replace my 11.2AH with a 20AH, same voltage. It fits inside my T42 folder and easily doubles my range. Original 11.2AH battery is carried in the car for an extra 20 miles...
I haven't seen anyone go above a 52v battery on the stock Rad controller/motor since that's the max most anyone is willing to push through the default electronics. Would be interesting to see though!
@@ElectricRidesUT I've seen 52V added to 48V with a 'blender'... Does that feed either 48V or 52V ? Or does a blender put them together for a 50V average...?
@@johnw65 From what I've been told - the blender will pull from the 52v battery until it's equal with the 48v battery and then use both equally. So, it's still better to have the 2 batteries at equal voltage so reduce the voltage sag.
@@ElectricRidesUT My rack bag is ordered and on the way. It will house my 2nd battery. I just haven't decided which way to go with it. 52V20AH with a blender may be the most range/pwr combination. But, a 48V20AH can just be spliced in w/o a blender... Bag will also carry all chargers, tubes, tire repair and tools.
If I have 48v 10ah battery and say my 2nd battery is 36v 12ah will this work using the adaptor?
Technically, if it's an adapter that works for different battery voltages it will work, but you really won't get a lot of extra range out of the 36v as your 2nd. Most of these battery adapaters will drain the battery that has more voltage first until they are at equal voltage levels, and then drain them equally. A 48v battery will be "full" at about 54v and a 36v battery is "full" around 42v. So your main battery will drain down until it's about 20% full before the 2nd battery will even start to be used. A bike that comes with a 48v battery won't be designed to work with a 36v system, so once your main battery is dead, it will really struggle running off the 36v battery alone.. or not work at all.
Are you in london I want you to fix my bike if you would to
Apologies, I'm not in the UK, I'm in the US.
Can't seem to find a video that simply talks about swapping out the entire battery for another not adding a second🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️ adding a second battery to your bike just double the weight of your bike🤦🏽♂️😡 and will tear your shocks and/or suspension up if you have any, I don't so it would just break my spokes again because I used to ride with an extra battery in my trunk but not anymore. My problem is I bought a battery from Amazon (unbeknownst not returnable🤦🏽♂️) thinking it was going to be an easy swap but of course the ends aren't compatible🤷🏽♂️🤷🏽♂️
"the second most common is the least common of the 4." yeah, that makes sense
It's second in a list of the 4 most common battery types.. and it's the least common of the 4.. makes sense to me?
@@ElectricRidesUT the way you stated it didn’t make sense. The phrase “second most common” has a generally understood meaning that is different from what you wrote in the comments. It makes sense but you have to explain it, which means it doesn’t make sense
@@NinjasOfOrca Ah, yeah I get what you're saying I suppose I should have said "in no particular order" or something similar. 👍
One charger? Two chargers? Not a peep.
I should have made mention, sorry. Both batteries will need to be charged separately. Most battery adapters won't handle current going into the batteries, just out.
I figured that would be the case
👏👏👏👏👍❤
🤘😁
I'd rather just swap out batteries.
Definitely a good option as well, especially if you want to know exactly how far you're able to go.
Pakistan
👍
why are u even watching while u don't have one
There's nothing in this misleading video about "how to add" a second battery to an e-bike, just the types of batteries.
12 min video about mounting options, ZERO info about comparability of batteries 👎👎👎
He said once they are the same volt you are ok if different volts eg 48+52vol you need a battery blender.
This is not a proper tutorial. The majority of the video just about ways to attach it to the frame, something that most of us can figure out on our own.
I'm sorry to hear that you didn't find it helpful.
@@ElectricRidesUT Well it says complete guide in the title and that is misleading.
The wiring is the trickiest part.
He covered that topic very well.
Your voice on this video is so low I could barely hear it with the highest level on my phone I recommend you change the volume four times higher
Sorry to hear you're having trouble hearing me. I've tested the video on several different PCs and phones and it sounds fine to me.
I find your voice and volume quite pleasant to listen to.
I think you are going loosing your hearing
Does anyone remember the generator we had for the lights in the old days the front tire . Has anyone developed a generator that runs on the front tire and can it charge your battery while riding your bike. This sounds like the perfect way to charge.
Battery blenders will not work on bikes with regen braking like the Onyx bikes.
Good point!