I noticed if I go slower it increases the range significantly but if it's windy and it usually is where I live it decreases Hills not good. I bought an extra battery that increased it. And I did not watch the video yet
I have an off topic question, please. Can I buy a $300+ ebike conversion kit and assemble it onto a basic Walmart bike or one from a sporting goods store?
I coast whenever I can and when I'm going down hills I put the bike in PAS 0 and start peddling. 👍Also I use the cruise control at low speeds to go farther using less battery just takes longer to get where im going
Using this technique I guarantee 25 extra miles per batterie charge! Step 1) Use low fat Turkey grease on all your bearings for zero friction. Step 2) Spray your bike down with 3 coats of shellac, for wind reduction (Spray every part of the bike) Step 3) Slather up with best foods real mayonnaise, dont use any of those off brands. Whether clothed or just in a speedo, slather yourself down with a thick coat of mayonnaise, the entire body. This doesn't do anything for you but it feels just right. Plus, the lady's love it. Step 4) Drink 1 beer, 1 8oz cup of eggnog, eat 2 hard boiled eggs, and 1 chocolate bar. Now you`re ready for your cross town commute
I took off the knobby tires and now use smooth treaded tires for lower rolling resistance. They are also much quieter on the road. I find not using the throttle uses less power all-around. For example, at full power pedaling uses around 1000 watts of power but if I use the throttle, it jumps to almost 1500 watts of power. I also changed out the rear sprocket’s last 3 cogs from 12-14-16 to 11-13-15 and it matched my pedaling cadence way better. Before I was shifting into a gear too high or too low. Not it feels much better. It added almost 10% higher gears (and higher top speed if I wanted) to the bike. Lastly I changed the PAS numbers from 5 levels to 9 levels. That way I can fine tune the power levels to better suit my speed. Now climbing hills I can go from say level 5 to level 6 (on the 9 levels) which is about a 10% difference instead of 3 to 4 (on the 5 levels) which is about a 20% difference.
A note to the, “just get a more powerful motor and a larger battery” crowd. There is an old saying in aviation. If you put a large enough engine on it, you can make a brick fly, but you’re still flying a brick.
A Flying 'Lawnmower' (gasoline engine, takes off at about 02.50) ruclips.net/video/K-IVsrNcJgY/видео.html An Electric Version ruclips.net/video/OoWdm07QwVw/видео.html
I found on my scooter you dont really need to slow down a whole lot, just slow enough so the wind isnt eating up your battery. I used to keep up with traffic at 35 to 40 on my scooter, i was only getting about 25 miles of range. Im a heavier rider. So one day i slowed down to 20 mph and stayed in the bike lanes and sure enough after 45 miles i still had about 25 percent battery left. Best part of that is you still meet the cars again at the next stop sign so your really not getting anywhere faster at the higher speed anyhow.
Tip 1 - check tire pressure. Tip 2 - try to use less power accelerating. Either use your own force until you're up to speed OR use a lower setting when accelerating. Tip 3 - pulse and glide. Get up to a high speed, then coast while you slowly decelerate, then pulse back up to speed and rinse and repeat. Tip 4 - just ride slower. Tip 5 - if you have suspension, lock it. Don't waste energy bobbing your suspension up and down. Tip 6 - decrease you're weight as much as possible. Don't carry anything unnecessary. Tip 7 - select the right gear. Low gear for climbing hills, higher gear for flats and highest for downhills.
Good one ! Save your suspension for where you need it, I’m 67 with back problems so I can’t lock out the fork suspension as often as I’d like. Has rear suspension too but non lockable.
Definitely slow down! In addition to getting more range and battery longevity, if you ride on multi-use trails you won’t be upsetting pedestrians and non-powered cyclists. We must be courteous to maintain our access.
Here in the WV. mountians the best way to extend range is a back up battery. You dont wana get stuck with a mountian between you and home. My 52v 20 ah battery typically lasts bout 20 miles on a 1000 watt mid motor. My backup is 48v 10ah that I carry in a basket on the back. I use most of the tips in this vid already and thanks for a helpful vid!
When traveling over 15mph, BODY POSITION is MASSIVE. Wind resistance is by far the largest, minimize your frontal exposure as much as is comfortable without taking all the joy out of it. A cruiser < mountain bike < road bike < TT bike < recumbent There isn't a cheat code, hate to break it to people, but sitting back with your chest open to the wind is crazy inefficient far more than weight, coasting, slow start, or tire pressure.
I love all the ideas on how to extend your range on an ebike. The one I like the best is getting rid of some weight. I'm actually hoping to get a lot of use from riding and will be able to loose the weight were it really counts.......my weight. So this will give me more incentive to use my own power where I can, so I can loose the weight I am carrying. I am so excited, I can't wait to get my ebike.
I get unlimited battery range by simply keeping the battery turned off. However, since I want e-assist for specific purposes, I'll continue to use it the way I want. Specifically, my trike and my body and my accessories and my carry alongs are what they are and I want at least the first power level to ensure I keep up with regular bikes (if necessary). When I go up hill, I want maximum assist. When I go down hill, I keep it turned off. My e-assist adapts to the way I want to ride, as it should be.
A really good one that I use in my car is that when you're approaching a hill, take a bit of a gentle run at it. By doing that your battery will not be heavily taxed until you're part way up the hill.
For a hub if you're going at a big hill, put it in the highest gear you possibly can start crankshaft full man power and right before you hit the upgrafdeFull throttle down step a couple of gears by the time you hit the top
Excellent dialogue on saving the battery and extending the range. I implemented similar techniques when I had an electric car. Slow starts, coast as much as possible, anticipate traffic light changes (when riding in traffic), slower overall speeds, and higher tire pressure all contribute to better range. I'm taking delivery on my first E-bike Wednesday. This will be quite an upgrade from the 1995 Schwinn Cruiser Classic I've been riding for the past several decades. Great information, Area 13! I'll be watching more videos from your channel. (Subscribed)
By how much the tire pressure should be higher? If it's even slightly too high then it will reduce the speed on rougher road textures, increase skidding and tire out the body.
@@uvwuvw-ol3fg - I just go a few pounds more than recommended. I'm putting in 30 pounds in the fat tires of my Magicycle. So not a lot more than recommended.
When I first got my fat tire, hub motor bikes one of the most surprising things I noticed was how far you can coast. Using it for power management is a great tip but it also helps with brake pad wear.
I have a self build e-bike that I built from a Trek 6100 with a 1500 watt hub motor, 48v 1500watt controller, and two 48v 28ah lithium ion batteries that I've been riding for the past 2 months and I apply all 7 of these tips to increase my battery range on a daily basis. Speaking for myself, The most efficient technique is the pulse and glide technique and of course, having two batteries so that when my first battery dies I flip the switch to my second and keep cruising...lol...
I remember when I was doing Menulog (food deliveries) on my Ace X Demon e-Bike I charged it to 1000% at the westfield in Tuggerah was doing a 4 hr run delivering food and by the end of the 4 hrs I don't know what I did, but I had 40% range left which I thought was great for a 48V 20aH battery....with the 5amp fast charger I was able to charge it back up to 100% again for the 2nd 3 hr run of the evening, which was roughly about the same, I used the PAS 4 setting most of the day only using PAS 5 when I had to, it does have a thorttle control on it as well, and only use the throttle on it, when starting off slowly at lights and mostly when going up hills...other than that use the PAS as much as possible on the rear motor. I was surprised to found out that had only used a 5th of the battery throughout the day...but will implement some of your tips here when I get back on the bike😊
I’m a former bicycle racer. I do the same things I did to maximize my speed while racing. High performance tires are fragile, but I use the highest performance tires I’m willing to deal with. One or two flats each summer are worth the improved rolling resistance to me. The humming of the knobies on the Cheetah sounded like lot like wasted energy. Weight is a killer. Take off the rack and panniers any time you don’t need them, and go on that diet :) I saved the big one for last. Aerodynamics is everything. Don’t have unnecessary things hanging on your bicycle or body, and if you are carrying gear on your bike keep it inline with your body and not hanging on the sides. Panniers are a drag. A large bikepacking seat bag is much better. Get your body in an aerodynamic position. Some bicycles lend themselves to this, and some not so much. Set up your bike, if you can, so you can lean your forearms on the handlebars. They make aero bars that, if you get yourself set up correctly, can make this more comfortable than sitting upright. Think of leaning forward, and resting your forearms on a bar, while setting on a barstool.
I agree with the tires comment. Skinnier tires on these behemoths will increase the distance and possibly over-all speed by reducing friction on the ground. I just ordered an ebike and it has more reasonable 2-1/4" tires, but I'm intending on going thinner. 1-3/8ths if they'll fit on the rims. Aerodynamics is another key, but I think it is a lost cause on these bikes. They are modified "comfort/utility" bikes and simply cannot become efficiently shaped enough to make much difference. Going down a very long hill maybe? Sure, tuck in and be a bullet, but for everyday commuting and grocery work? Nah. I do like the mage of leaning on a bar while sitting on a barstool, though...
@@OutnBacker the image of sitting on a barstool, and leaning forward on the bar, is the correct one. It’s how I would describe the position I used for ultramarathon riding. It’s a very comfortable position or you are doing it wrong. Tucked in like a bullet is the way I would describe the correct position only to a bicycle racer. That puts you in the most aero position you can tolerate, and that would be for competition only. ( I’m a former racing coach also)
@@clarson2916 Yeah, I've been passed hundreds of times by guys like you. I was never that streamlined, if you know what I mean. You would have considered me an obstruction, not a bike rider. These days, with worn out knees and lots of arthritis, I don't make a very good bullet - even on a long down hill.
@@OutnBacker Skinnier tires helps with aerodynamics too. You can find some bike wind tunnel tests on RUclips. Very revealing. All handlebar bags or rolls are bad, as are panniers.
@@barrybogart5436 Yes, but it depends on what you are riding for: Efficiency, or utility. Each type of task requires its own gear. You can't bring home $150 worh of groceries on a road bike. You need panniers and/or other bags or racks. The E-Bikes are going to change a lot of thinking about what a bicycle really is. They get it in Europe, where they ride very few miles compared to US riders, but also ride very much more often.
Lots of assist level 1 and 15 mph instead of levels 3/4 and 20+mph. It’s about double the range. I haven’t tried it yet, but on a very long trip I might turn down my power output from 10 to 6 in the display, which is how it came. Avoiding using the throttle helps, too, but as long as I’m not needing huge range, I let myself play a bit. It’s supposed to be fun. :-)
Pedal until you get tired then use the throttle and then coast for awhile. Ive gotten 40 miles range cruising at 15mph. That is the sweet spot for longest range.
My Bronco is my only form of transportation, full pedal assist mode and I ride as fast as possible. If I ever get to that pleasure ride I'm longing for, I'll be sure to implement all these tips.
I’m currently riding my radwagon version 3 every night on my paper route. I can attest to the pulse and glide technique. I can use pedal assist level 2 or 3 all night and be a watt mixer conserving momentum constantly ...or... I can go all out out level 5 and get the same result. Zip up to 20 plus mph then glide. I’ve found that the regen works best at 15 or more mph. I actually play a game where I try to hit 200 (20.0 mph) in as many spots between throws as possible. Some spots that is just not possible, but I have done it in more and more places as my skill at riding cargo loaded increases.
Here too. You want to get over the hill as fast as possible to minimize the TIME you are using the power. And pedal HARD to have the motor do less work. Short steep hills take less power than moderate but long ones.
I am not so much of a subscriber on RUclips, but your videos are a very instructive way of getting to know more about riding an e-bike. So kudos to you, from the Netherlands, and you have an extra subscriber!
weather is beautiful, road is smooth and wide, that looks like a fantastic ride. Really like the trees and everything about it. Thanks for the videos I've found them all to be well done and informative.
I have an 02Feel bike and think these tips are really handy. I coast a lot on mine particularly downhill and flat I ride without assistance at all. I can really extend my range doing this. Starting off I use zero power but am on a hill, so can take advantage of that starting. Brilliant info. Thanks
Same, something to also keep in mind while riding ebikes are helmets. Most people wear cpsc helmets (which arent safe), when they should be actually wearing an nta helmet like xnito or bern
Thank you for the practical tips to conserve power. I have been able to increase distance traveled on one 52v battery from 42 miles to 61 miles 🤓 I no longer need carry an extra battery. Thanks
Thanks for answering my question concerning pulse and coast. I suspected that this would save energy, but I wasn't sure. Will definitely be doing it more on future rides.
I found a good use for car jumper cables. You can tow a friend on a second bike. It's fun gradually accelerate to prevent the claws from slipping off and ride steady enough not let the cable slack too much. This is only recommended for use on lightly traveled roads and trails.
Hi, I recently purchased a Basil battery cover for my Bosch battery, it is made of neoprene and said to provide thermal protection against cold so improving battery performance. 👍 Happy E-cycling
Cool topic. Two big ones not mentioned: tires with lower rolling resistance can easily be 10% more efficient. Lowering your handle bar setup also reduces air drag 5% for every 3/4 inches. Pulse and glide works in internal combustion engine vehicles because of the narrow band of high efficiency in those motors. It won’t matter as much with ebikes, might actually make mileage worse
I thought those hub motors had their own gears. I also thought they had an electric motor with windings that would lend themselves to be either High torque or high RPM.
thanks to your video I have gone from 15 miles to 37 miles on my 7.8 AH battery (I'm in the UK so our bikes are a little less powerful than yours....lol but all I have done is stop using assist level 5 sticking to level 2/3, plus regularly pump up the tyres)
As a cheap bastard but also as an environmental nut I bought a Prius. I've become very familiar with pulse and glide, aerodynamics, tire pressure and more. Having just received my Core 5 I've been looking forward to incorporating these technics. Momentum is king! Btw I've learned for example that I can increase my MPH to 65+ on the highway using these tricks where the car is only rated for 50. Look forward to testing these methods on an ebike
The only problem I see with pulse and glide is I rode a bike for calorie burn and to lose weight. If I am gliding 1.2 the time the calories are not going to get burned.
speedbumps..I went over a speedbumps at speed, my helmet flew off ...next thing I knew the ambulance crew were picking me up off the tarmac...Three weeks off work and lots of nasty little injuries plus a bit of concussion. I hate speedbumps.
If I’m just going for a ride I adjust power to give about 12-13 mph. Adjust gears to provide best balance of effort and assist. Last time I checked I still had a full bar on battery meter after 60 miles. (52V, 13 ah). Pulse and glide is so boring. I didn’t learn any new hints, but appreciate the reminders. Thanks.
I got a Pace Aventon ebike from Berts. How can I keep the ebike battery charged at the same time as I'm ridding to increase my distance. The Pace ebike is 500w and the charger is 48v.I have a Ever Start 750w Power Inverter and I attached it with a Scooter battery. So I went to Inter State and showed him how I hooked the battery to it to keep the ebike battery charged .He told me sense the charger is 48v I need 4 small batteries to make it 48v cause each battery is 12v. But see 1 scooter battery powered on the 750w power inverter. He told me to little volts can mess up some thing . Can any 1 add on that please ??
I used to do the same thing when flying ultralights long distances. The air at different altitudes varies in direction and intensity. I'd climb until I found air going the same way I was going. I've seen speeds double doing this. Powered parachutes fly at 26 MPH in still air. I've seen speeds as high as 60 MPH in mine, just by picking the right altitude.
You overlooked the most important free energy technique. I used it on my old Giant before I had an ebike and before I converted it. I put a bluetooth speaker on it and played thumping jams. My average speed went up 40%. My Fun Factor Tripled!!! Pump It Up!!! Wheelies are kinda free energy. But,,, Air Time is like Time Travel.
Fat man on a bike here my magicycle is 75lb out the box add 2 heavy duty locks est6lb + a new basket 3lb + trunk bag and saddle bags a d my at least 20 additional pounds and this all adds up to not getting the rang predicted 😂. Well I'm learning when ,where, and how to use the power of this beast of a bike❤. Plan B actually get in condition pedal and lay off the throttle 😁 which of course I love. All this may actually help me reduce my own tonnage😢. Anyway lots to learn ,work ahead 79 and optimistic thanks.
This is a very useful vid and I'm going to run thru it again along with the Comments below. I Did a similar test a year ago on my Cube Hybrid and managed to use up 1 bar on the 6 bar display over 16 miles on average/not-too-hilly terrain. One thing that I'm sure can affect the 'extra weight' element is the heavy D-lock we're likely to be carrying*. I may look into a lighter lock for occasions when the necessity to lock the bike for more than xx minutes becomes likely.. *With UK insurance policies re e-bikes, they recommend a Gold security standard lock and they can be heavy; fine for urban and shopping use but out on the trails and country rides a lighter alternative needs to be an option methinks..
Hahahaha! Older video or not, the comical amount of tubes you had in your bags made me laugh so hard I went to slap my desk and apparently I smacked the Subscribe button. Thanks for the description about weight, I have a much better understanding of how much my 6 pound lock + my 5 pound delivery bag + my 12+ pounds of various gear has been impacting my escooter riding and how it will affect my beginner A to Z e-bike once it arrives.
knowing your bike cruising speed is key, thats my experience. each bike has its own "comfort zone" if you ride that you will get the max distance out of your battery. but the whole packages applies, if your load is more heavy you end up with less miles.
I have a 26" fat tire e-bike that gets around 62 miles miles per charge. It has a 1000w 48v brushless hub motor. The battery is a 48v, 16ah Panasonic. I keep the tire pressure at 20 psi. The terrain is just a very slight grade, and mostly flat. NE Ohio. I like to pedal, and then coast a lot. Especially down hill. I most generally only use PA 1, and 2 mostly. Sometimes 3, but very rarely. It's only a 4 mile commute to where I do my daily bidding. That's 8 miles round trip. I can go into town twice a week, and I only charge my battery once a week. If you ask me. The most important thing is a battery that gets at least 15 to 20 ah, or hook up 2 batteries in parallel. That's what i'm going to do next. That being said. I'm in my late 50's, and i'm never in a hurry to get anywhere on a bike. Been riding Bicycles since I could fit on one. ROLL ON!
Thank you for the tips and testing. A weight factor that I did not hear you say is the rider. I'm fat at 205 lbs, if I were 180 lbs like I was, the range should be better. I have also been carrying a chain, cable and U locks in my bags and for sure that will make a difference. I ride a Lectric XP bike and I have only charged it twice, but I'm getting around 15 miles per charge, but I enjoy just hitting the throttle instead of pedaling a lot. As far as charging the battery, is it better to let it pretty much completely discharge or charge it when it goes about half ways down.
Charge it before it gets below 20% for the longest battery lifetime. And if you don't need all the range, unplug it from the charger before it reaches 100%. It's also important to avoid charging a cold battery, ideal charging temperature is 70 degrees. Also, on a warm day after you've finished a ride, put the battery in a cool place for a couple of hours before charging. Batteries heat up a bit from riding and from charging and the more it can be kept between 70-80 degrees when charging, the better.
What type of ebike you have? I defininately would love to get more range from mine instead of buying a new bike.that's impressive for pedal assist only. I barely get 15 mile range on my bike. Of course I am 240 pounds which has an effect but i should be betting more than 15 miles.
Thanks man, great tips! Is there an 8th tip? By buying smooth tires, with no knobs on it? I noticed driving my e-bike (Sitgo / no pedals) that I would go an ride fast... fast. Even with time enough I would go fast, it just feels good, automatically. But strangely I then realized I had no time limit and then started to ride 15 km/hr instead of 24 km/hr. Man that made a lot, a lot, of range extra. It felt like wasting time, stupid and at the same time I could enjoy the surroundings way more.
I use all these tips. They help a lot. I notice on my gauge at full throttle I use lower amps if my mid drive motor is at a certain rpm. I n this case 7th gear vs. 10th gear. While doing so it will still reach the same speed.
Need the same information video for a direct drive motor. Many of the tips work but the pulse and coast does not, the drag even with power off is quite high. I can barely peddle my radcity in first gear with power off and the bike actually slows down going downhill. That said I can set the max speed to 20 km/h and when that speed is reached the power drops as I apply more peddling power. If I peddle past 20 to say 23, the display shows 000 watts, at 22 it is only 34 watts and 21 is about 65 watts. My longest ride so far was 55 km (34 miles) and got home just getting into the 3rd bar of 5. That's about the max I can do sitting on the bike so no worries for me getting home on that kind of ride. I expect I would easily get 70 miles as my area has no hills worth mentioning.
considering that I live in a state that has very high winds most of the year, I always ALWAYS check the weather to know which direction the wind is blowing from. Granted, I live in a very small community in the middle of Nebraska and don't putz around all to often on my ebike....knowing wind speed helps a ton. Heading up to the corner shop when the wind is blowing 30 mph, I know it is gonna be a struggle up the hill....return trip not so much. (today's ride, 16mph winds coming from the North with gusts up to 30mph)....like you said, bicycles are not the most aerodynamic, especially when riding a Dutch style cruiser.
Neat comments and concepts. I am just not living in that head space. I want a bike that is convenient for me, as I use it to commute to a professional workplace. I have gone to a street tread, to get away from the whining knobby tires. They are higher pressure too (30 PSI vs 20 PSI max on knobby tires). But the tire change was just as much about a quieter ride, and a more planted ride on the roads as better energy economy. But I will say the bike coasts MUCH better. I do let off on the throttle earlier, when approaching a stop sign or a red light. As the bike is used for commuting, it carries a battery powered compressor, two sets of locks, a set of tools, a patch kit, etc. I don't want a break-down or flat tire to turn into an ordeal where the spouse must be called, and haul all I need to get going again to my location. But, if I wanted my bike to be a testbed for hypermiling, then these hints would be gold.
Why not build one? You can get the voilamart 1500w hub kit that has the controller built into the hub, and it is incredibly easy for a first time ebike owner to own/build. Just make sure you provide a frame with a 150mm drop out on the rear.
Awesome video. We don't agree on much, but this really is excellent. Even on a traditional road or racing bike, 75% of your energy goes to overcoming wind resistance.
I would love to see you do this test again with the same weight and tire pressure. I say this because I pretty much always vheck tire pressure and my commute weight is pretty constant. I am curious what efficiency gains there are just out of the change of behavior.
on flats i will be set 1 about 150 wats per hour, set 2 is 200, and set 3 is 250 , i only go up to set 6 on lowest gear on hills, set 6 is about 400 to 450 wats per hour, and set 7 to 9 is about 600 to 750 wats per hour. using the throttle eats your battery for fun. i can get 44 miles, and still have around 30 to 40% , left. on a 13.5 APH . i weigh 100 kg
Physics being about my favorite subject I believe the pulse and glide technique is useless in my opinion. Heat loss in the motor and controller under acceleration, wind resistance at the top speed etc. will probably average out to say the same battery usage as 14 to 15 mph if you did a 10 to 20 mph pulse and glide. I completely agree with the rest. Tire pressure, speed, 0 assist on flat or a hill small enough assist is not needed. If you use 100% people power you could go 1000 miles and still have 100% battery power. Yesterday, I did 10 miles in the sierra foot hills on assist level 1. The return trip in race mode. 400' elevation increase in the middle. 55% battery capacity at the end of the ride compared to 70 some % if I do both directions on assist 1 on a just under kwh battery. I think I'll try the trip on 0 assist until needed on the next rip and will post the results. No matter what, race mode was a lot more fun. It was kind of like riding a minibike home with a little pedaling on the hills......even got a thumbs up from a guy on a motorcycle......little did he know I normally do that trip on a Harley Road King. The ebike makes me get out and work my 61 year old butt a little. A good friend of mine bought a Bolton bike a couple of years ago. He is still tickled pink with it. After checking it out I started my quest for an ebike.
You had your tires down to 12.5 PSI on the first ride?! I think I found your main problem, lol. Seriously though, good tips and about what I expected. The fork lockout is more of a help for pedaling, not so much when on motor. A couple other tips would be to decrease your max throttle and PAS speed in the settings, and keep your drivetrain well-lubricated (especially for mid drives). I'm kinda sloppy in terms of not shy with the throttle, tire pressure not maxed, and suspension unlocked. BUT, I keep my bike well maintained and get around 40 miles per charge in hilly areas (RadMini 4). My range has improved since I got the bike, simply because I've gotten stronger myself.
I weigh about 100 pounds more than my brother, his battery last a lot longer, I bought a 110 volt inverter that runs off my Ryobi batteries and I think that gives me at least another 10 miles, I did just get my 2nd battery, that is about right for where I want to go, gonna add a geared motor to the front and turn my bile into a 2 wheel drive, Yesterday we ordered 10 gauge spokes for the back of my bike to handle my weight and all the crap I carry! I was only getting about 25 miles but riding faster than I should have.
TLDW: 1 - tire pressure 2 - accelerate slower 3 - hypermile: instead of holding a constant speed, slowly accelerate, coast for as long as possible (till about 5mph), then accelerate again 4 - ride slower 5 - lockout suspension, so that your bike doesn't use energy for vertical movement 6 - go on a diet, weight 7 - choose correct gear
Excellent info, I'm definitely going to try to implement at least some of those tips when I get my e-bike on the road, being a Cyclone 3D system, I'm not sure how to used the pulse and glide, you don't have as much ease of control with the limited display as on your bikes, but I'll try. Thanks for the video and excellent info. 🖖😎
Im getting 10 miles per power bar. Pedaling and dirt roads, 3 hours of riding 3 bars out of 5. 36V 13 AH battery, I weight 150#. I charge after every ride, even 5 miles.
i just recently found a way to get a lot more range out of my batteries on my bike just by tweaking the settings in the display to make my bike think its a 36volt system instead of a 48v. Tho it causes the battery display to always show its fully charged even when its drained it lets the bike go a lot further before it kicks in the low voltage cut off which was cutting power to the bike any time my 48v battery got down below 46v despite setting the shutdown volts to 43. now i can go all the way till the battery is drawn down to about 20% or 42v before the power will cut off. which gives me about 20 to 25% higher range or another 4-5 mile by allowing me to use the rest of the power in my battery without it getting to discharged. the only drawback is that the battery % meter which was never acurite any way just shows its fully charged all the time. so instead i just set it to show the actual voltage instead which is a much better and more accurate way of knowing how much charge i have.
The new electric pump you offer works so good. I was riding an couldn't get past 15 mphs. An thought what's up.? Da., low tire pressure. Had 6lbs front. 5lbs back. Up it to 20lbs using that great electric pump you sale. Back to burning 🔥 rubber. Oh that reminds me. I need some 26 × 4 fat tires. What do you sale? Thanks again. 😊
Thank you for all the info . I am new to the ebike experience and in the process of getting the right gear ,I would like to know the name of the bike pump you used in this video thanks
Thanks for asking. I live in a very hilly area where on a grocery run I encounter 9 hills ranging from a 6° to 10° grade and numerous stop signs. So range is critical for me. I found a formula for Wh/mi and with that now built into a spreadsheet I know with a fresh battery how far I can go and if I stop somewhere I can also see how many miles I have left. Once I had this figured out, I could test different routes, different PAS levels with different gears used and fine tune my experience. What makes no sense to me is why ebike manufacturers don’t build this formula into their controllers. It’s an easy formula that provides accurate results. Please comment, I’d like to know your thoughts.
Would need proper geographic data, Apps/smartphone, internet access... As standalone/universal app customizable to the given vehicle probably interesting, but i would have not much trust if a e bike manufacturer would hire any cheap programmer to make a good software.
I just got my first e-bike, 20 miles yesterday, 30 today. Watched this video today before I went riding. I have 24" fatty with Bafang Ultra mid-drive. Manufacture PR suggest 57 miles on 1 charge. Being an experienced road cyclist what you suggested all makes loads of sense, except I will carry enough crap to fix what's likely to break. In 10000+ miles only a bolt falling out of the drive train and broken chain (I sure thought I had a spare link) left me stranded. Today I discovered that on fairly level roads I can pedal with 0 assist to 15 or so mph and using that momentum can get up short hills. I'm guessing I put on 5 miles unassisted, not counting coasting downhills. Seriously I was surprised at how easy the big fat toad was to ride unassisted, though I shouldn't have been. Yesterday's 20 miler was all pas1, I assumed it was necessary, silly me. Because I was on a bike trail with loads of pedestrians, dogs and kids I kept the speed down, as I also did today, until I got to the county roads. If I was serious about it I probably could have ridden pas 0 for close to half the two rides and pas1 the balance. I've had no reason to try pas 2 or higher, with 1 I can easily hit 20 which is plenty fast enough for me. After the 50 miles I still had 1/4 battery remainin, which means nothing at the moment, save I had power to spare when I got home. Thanks for all the very informative videos, you do a great job.
![Twenty One Pilots - The Line (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XCz7WUotXs8/mqdefault.jpg)
What do you do to increase the range on your electric bike?
I noticed if I go slower it increases the range significantly but if it's windy and it usually is where I live it decreases Hills not good. I bought an extra battery that increased it. And I did not watch the video yet
I have an off topic question, please.
Can I buy a $300+ ebike conversion kit and assemble it onto a basic Walmart bike or one from a sporting goods store?
I coast whenever I can and when I'm going down hills I put the bike in PAS 0 and start peddling. 👍Also I use the cruise control at low speeds to go farther using less battery just takes longer to get where im going
Using this technique I guarantee 25 extra miles per batterie charge!
Step 1) Use low fat Turkey grease on all your bearings for zero friction.
Step 2) Spray your bike down with 3 coats of shellac, for wind reduction (Spray every part of the bike)
Step 3) Slather up with best foods real mayonnaise, dont use any of those off brands. Whether clothed or just in a speedo, slather yourself down with a thick coat of mayonnaise, the entire body. This doesn't do anything for you but it feels just right. Plus, the lady's love it.
Step 4) Drink 1 beer, 1 8oz cup of eggnog, eat 2 hard boiled eggs, and 1 chocolate bar.
Now you`re ready for your cross town commute
I took off the knobby tires and now use smooth treaded tires for lower rolling resistance. They are also much quieter on the road.
I find not using the throttle uses less power all-around. For example, at full power pedaling uses around 1000 watts of power but if I use the throttle, it jumps to almost 1500 watts of power.
I also changed out the rear sprocket’s last 3 cogs from 12-14-16 to 11-13-15 and it matched my pedaling cadence way better. Before I was shifting into a gear too high or too low. Not it feels much better. It added almost 10% higher gears (and higher top speed if I wanted) to the bike.
Lastly I changed the PAS numbers from 5 levels to 9 levels. That way I can fine tune the power levels to better suit my speed. Now climbing hills I can go from say level 5 to level 6 (on the 9 levels) which is about a 10% difference instead of 3 to 4 (on the 5 levels) which is about a 20% difference.
A note to the, “just get a more powerful motor and a larger battery” crowd. There is an old saying in aviation. If you put a large enough engine on it, you can make a brick fly, but you’re still flying a brick.
A Flying 'Lawnmower' (gasoline engine, takes off at about 02.50)
ruclips.net/video/K-IVsrNcJgY/видео.html
An Electric Version
ruclips.net/video/OoWdm07QwVw/видео.html
Dude that second tip is honestly so good, I now pedal for about 15 seconds before starting the throttle and my range went up by 5 miles
I solved my E-Bike range issues, I've added a second battery... I ride it ALWAYS at maximum assist and honestly now I don't worry about range anymore
I found on my scooter you dont really need to slow down a whole lot, just slow enough so the wind isnt eating up your battery. I used to keep up with traffic at 35 to 40 on my scooter, i was only getting about 25 miles of range. Im a heavier rider. So one day i slowed down to 20 mph and stayed in the bike lanes and sure enough after 45 miles i still had about 25 percent battery left. Best part of that is you still meet the cars again at the next stop sign so your really not getting anywhere faster at the higher speed anyhow.
More mellow ride too!
Tip 1 - check tire pressure.
Tip 2 - try to use less power accelerating. Either use your own force until you're up to speed OR use a lower setting when accelerating.
Tip 3 - pulse and glide. Get up to a high speed, then coast while you slowly decelerate, then pulse back up to speed and rinse and repeat.
Tip 4 - just ride slower.
Tip 5 - if you have suspension, lock it. Don't waste energy bobbing your suspension up and down.
Tip 6 - decrease you're weight as much as possible. Don't carry anything unnecessary.
Tip 7 - select the right gear. Low gear for climbing hills, higher gear for flats and highest for downhills.
Thank you, you just saved 19 minutes of my time.
Good one ! Save your suspension for where you need it, I’m 67 with back problems so I can’t lock out the fork suspension as often as I’d like. Has rear suspension too but non lockable.
Definitely slow down! In addition to getting more range and battery longevity, if you ride on multi-use trails you won’t be upsetting pedestrians and non-powered cyclists. We must be courteous to maintain our access.
Here in the WV. mountians the best way to extend range is a back up battery. You dont wana get stuck with a mountian between you and home. My 52v 20 ah battery typically lasts bout 20 miles on a 1000 watt mid motor. My backup is 48v 10ah that I carry in a basket on the back. I use most of the tips in this vid already and thanks for a helpful vid!
When traveling over 15mph, BODY POSITION is MASSIVE.
Wind resistance is by far the largest, minimize your frontal exposure as much as is comfortable without taking all the joy out of it.
A cruiser < mountain bike < road bike < TT bike < recumbent
There isn't a cheat code, hate to break it to people, but sitting back with your chest open to the wind is crazy inefficient far more than weight, coasting, slow start, or tire pressure.
I love all the ideas on how to extend your range on an ebike. The one I like the best is getting rid of some weight. I'm actually hoping to get a lot of use from riding and will be able to loose the weight were it really counts.......my weight. So this will give me more incentive to use my own power where I can, so I can loose the weight I am carrying. I am so excited, I can't wait to get my ebike.
Good on ya
YOU WILL FALL DOWN… just a heads up
We see riders of different PEVs losing weight to gain range also. Enjoying getting fitter while you cycle is the best way!
I get unlimited battery range by simply keeping the battery turned off. However, since I want e-assist for specific purposes, I'll continue to use it the way I want. Specifically, my trike and my body and my accessories and my carry alongs are what they are and I want at least the first power level to ensure I keep up with regular bikes (if necessary). When I go up hill, I want maximum assist. When I go down hill, I keep it turned off. My e-assist adapts to the way I want to ride, as it should be.
A really good one that I use in my car is that when you're approaching a hill, take a bit of a gentle run at it. By doing that your battery will not be heavily taxed until you're part way up the hill.
duh
unless it's a VERY short hill, in a very SHORT time it will tax your battery nearly the same amount.
For a hub if you're going at a big hill, put it in the highest gear you possibly can start crankshaft full man power and right before you hit the upgrafdeFull throttle down step a couple of gears by the time you hit the top
Excellent dialogue on saving the battery and extending the range. I implemented similar techniques when I had an electric car. Slow starts, coast as much as possible, anticipate traffic light changes (when riding in traffic), slower overall speeds, and higher tire pressure all contribute to better range. I'm taking delivery on my first E-bike Wednesday. This will be quite an upgrade from the 1995 Schwinn Cruiser Classic I've been riding for the past several decades. Great information, Area 13! I'll be watching more videos from your channel. (Subscribed)
By how much the tire pressure should be higher? If it's even slightly too high then it will reduce the speed on rougher road textures, increase skidding and tire out the body.
@@uvwuvw-ol3fg - I just go a few pounds more than recommended. I'm putting in 30 pounds in the fat tires of my Magicycle. So not a lot more than recommended.
Higher tire pressure does not always result in lower rolling resistance. It increases rolling resistance the more the road is bumpy.
When I first got my fat tire, hub motor bikes one of the most surprising things I noticed was how far you can coast. Using it for power management is a great tip but it also helps with brake pad wear.
I have a self build e-bike that I built from a Trek 6100 with a 1500 watt hub motor, 48v 1500watt controller, and two 48v 28ah lithium ion batteries that I've been riding for the past 2 months and I apply all 7 of these tips to increase my battery range on a daily basis. Speaking for myself, The most efficient technique is the pulse and glide technique and of course, having two batteries so that when my first battery dies I flip the switch to my second and keep cruising...lol...
I remember when I was doing Menulog (food deliveries) on my Ace X Demon e-Bike I charged it to 1000% at the westfield in Tuggerah was doing a 4 hr run delivering food and by the end of the 4 hrs I don't know what I did, but I had 40% range left which I thought was great for a 48V 20aH battery....with the 5amp fast charger I was able to charge it back up to 100% again for the 2nd 3 hr run of the evening, which was roughly about the same, I used the PAS 4 setting most of the day only using PAS 5 when I had to, it does have a thorttle control on it as well, and only use the throttle on it, when starting off slowly at lights and mostly when going up hills...other than that use the PAS as much as possible on the rear motor.
I was surprised to found out that had only used a 5th of the battery throughout the day...but will implement some of your tips here when I get back on the bike😊
I’m a former bicycle racer. I do the same things I did to maximize my speed while racing. High performance tires are fragile, but I use the highest performance tires I’m willing to deal with. One or two flats each summer are worth the improved rolling resistance to me. The humming of the knobies on the Cheetah sounded like lot like wasted energy. Weight is a killer. Take off the rack and panniers any time you don’t need them, and go on that diet :)
I saved the big one for last. Aerodynamics is everything. Don’t have unnecessary things hanging on your bicycle or body, and if you are carrying gear on your bike keep it inline with your body and not hanging on the sides. Panniers are a drag. A large bikepacking seat bag is much better. Get your body in an aerodynamic position. Some bicycles lend themselves to this, and some not so much. Set up your bike, if you can, so you can lean your forearms on the handlebars. They make aero bars that, if you get yourself set up correctly, can make this more comfortable than sitting upright. Think of leaning forward, and resting your forearms on a bar, while setting on a barstool.
I agree with the tires comment. Skinnier tires on these behemoths will increase the distance and possibly over-all speed by reducing friction on the ground. I just ordered an ebike and it has more reasonable 2-1/4" tires, but I'm intending on going thinner. 1-3/8ths if they'll fit on the rims.
Aerodynamics is another key, but I think it is a lost cause on these bikes. They are modified "comfort/utility" bikes and simply cannot become efficiently shaped enough to make much difference. Going down a very long hill maybe? Sure, tuck in and be a bullet, but for everyday commuting and grocery work? Nah.
I do like the mage of leaning on a bar while sitting on a barstool, though...
@@OutnBacker the image of sitting on a barstool, and leaning forward on the bar, is the correct one. It’s how I would describe the position I used for ultramarathon riding. It’s a very comfortable position or you are doing it wrong. Tucked in like a bullet is the way I would describe the correct position only to a bicycle racer. That puts you in the most aero position you can tolerate, and that would be for competition only. ( I’m a former racing coach also)
@@clarson2916 Yeah, I've been passed hundreds of times by guys like you. I was never that streamlined, if you know what I mean. You would have considered me an obstruction, not a bike rider. These days, with worn out knees and lots of arthritis, I don't make a very good bullet - even on a long down hill.
@@OutnBacker Skinnier tires helps with aerodynamics too. You can find some bike wind tunnel tests on RUclips. Very revealing. All handlebar bags or rolls are bad, as are panniers.
@@barrybogart5436 Yes, but it depends on what you are riding for: Efficiency, or utility. Each type of task requires its own gear. You can't bring home $150 worh of groceries on a road bike. You need panniers and/or other bags or racks. The E-Bikes are going to change a lot of thinking about what a bicycle really is. They get it in Europe, where they ride very few miles compared to US riders, but also ride very much more often.
Lots of assist level 1 and 15 mph instead of levels 3/4 and 20+mph. It’s about double the range. I haven’t tried it yet, but on a very long trip I might turn down my power output from 10 to 6 in the display, which is how it came. Avoiding using the throttle helps, too, but as long as I’m not needing huge range, I let myself play a bit. It’s supposed to be fun. :-)
Pedal until you get tired then use the throttle and then coast for awhile. Ive gotten 40 miles range cruising at 15mph. That is the sweet spot for longest range.
My Bronco is my only form of transportation, full pedal assist mode and I ride as fast as possible. If I ever get to that pleasure ride I'm longing for, I'll be sure to implement all these tips.
I’m currently riding my radwagon version 3 every night on my paper route. I can attest to the pulse and glide technique. I can use pedal assist level 2 or 3 all night and be a watt mixer conserving momentum constantly ...or... I can go all out out level 5 and get the same result. Zip up to 20 plus mph then glide. I’ve found that the regen works best at 15 or more mph. I actually play a game where I try to hit 200 (20.0 mph) in as many spots between throws as possible. Some spots that is just not possible, but I have done it in more and more places as my skill at riding cargo loaded increases.
My Ecotric has a "walk" mode that's lower than any of the "assist modes" and can be used as an ultra-low assist.
Mine does too (Townie Go 5i). Pretty nice considering I'm tiny and the bike is pretty damn heavy, even when it's being rolled along.
A MPAH (mile/ah) meter would be a nice option - digital readout for instantaneous and average MPAH.
Great tips. We have a lot of steep hilly road so I just turn off power when downhills as one way. I will apply the rest of the tips.
Here too. You want to get over the hill as fast as possible to minimize the TIME you are using the power. And pedal HARD to have the motor do less work. Short steep hills take less power than moderate but long ones.
I am not so much of a subscriber on RUclips, but your videos are a very instructive way of getting to know more about riding an e-bike. So kudos to you, from the Netherlands, and you have an extra subscriber!
Imagine if a company figures out how to charge the battery while you peddle, that would really increase range
weather is beautiful, road is smooth and wide, that looks like a fantastic ride. Really like the trees and everything about it. Thanks for the videos I've found them all to be well done and informative.
Full Sails and Happy Trails!!! May the adventures that lay before you be mighty and grand.
I’ve slowly learned all these tips over my first year with my e bike using only it for my main transportation
I have an 02Feel bike and think these tips are really handy. I coast a lot on mine particularly downhill and flat I ride without assistance at all. I can really extend my range doing this. Starting off I use zero power but am on a hill, so can take advantage of that starting. Brilliant info. Thanks
Same, something to also keep in mind while riding ebikes are helmets. Most people wear cpsc helmets (which arent safe), when they should be actually wearing an nta helmet like xnito or bern
Keep it on pas 3 mode. You can ride all day at 200watts.
Thank you for the practical tips to conserve power. I have been able to increase distance traveled on one 52v battery from 42 miles to 61 miles 🤓 I no longer need carry an extra battery.
Thanks
Excellent!
Thanks for answering my question concerning pulse and coast. I suspected that this would save energy, but I wasn't sure. Will definitely be doing it more on future rides.
THAT WORKS WELL IN MY PRIUS ;-))
I found a good use for car jumper cables. You can tow a friend on a second bike. It's fun gradually accelerate to prevent the claws from slipping off and ride steady enough not let the cable slack too much. This is only recommended for use on lightly traveled roads and trails.
Me and my kiddo use a dog leash
I have people hold on to my handle bars or tie off with a rachect strap
Hi, I recently purchased a Basil battery cover for my Bosch battery, it is made of neoprene and said to provide thermal protection against cold so improving battery performance.
👍 Happy E-cycling
That was very interesting and helpful. And compliments to your easy to listen to voice. I could listen to you all night, take care bud from NZ.
Thank You Kyle. You confirmed what I was thinking about use and conservation of power. I am very grateful for your videos. Keep up the good work.
Cool topic. Two big ones not mentioned: tires with lower rolling resistance can easily be 10% more efficient. Lowering your handle bar setup also reduces air drag 5% for every 3/4 inches.
Pulse and glide works in internal combustion engine vehicles because of the narrow band of high efficiency in those motors. It won’t matter as much with ebikes, might actually make mileage worse
I thought those hub motors had their own gears. I also thought they had an electric motor with windings that would lend themselves to be either High torque or high RPM.
thanks to your video I have gone from 15 miles to 37 miles on my 7.8 AH battery (I'm in the UK so our bikes are a little less powerful than yours....lol but all I have done is stop using assist level 5 sticking to level 2/3, plus regularly pump up the tyres)
I use pedal assist 2, 3 is way too fast on my ebikes. Ride safe!
As a cheap bastard but also as an environmental nut I bought a Prius. I've become very familiar with pulse and glide, aerodynamics, tire pressure and more. Having just received my Core 5 I've been looking forward to incorporating these technics. Momentum is king! Btw I've learned for example that I can increase my MPH to 65+ on the highway using these tricks where the car is only rated for 50. Look forward to testing these methods on an ebike
The only problem I see with pulse and glide is I rode a bike for calorie burn and to lose weight. If I am gliding 1.2 the time the calories are not going to get burned.
All good tips, especially tire pressure check! I always check PSI prior to setting off! Thanks.
speedbumps..I went over a speedbumps at speed, my helmet flew off ...next thing I knew the ambulance crew were picking me up off the tarmac...Three weeks off work and lots of nasty little injuries plus a bit of concussion. I hate speedbumps.
Your helmet shouldn't be flying off? Hope you are recovering well
Thanks! Always good information!! CHECK YOUR TIRE PRESSURE!!!
Always!
Dang I need to ride some roads like these. That’s so nice
I was thinking the same. UK is a pothole mess but the countryside is the place to be
Anytime you are rolling with cars or trails, helmets protect what ya want to keep. 👍
If I’m just going for a ride I adjust power to give about 12-13 mph. Adjust gears to provide best balance of effort and assist. Last time I checked I still had a full bar on battery meter after 60 miles. (52V, 13 ah). Pulse and glide is so boring. I didn’t learn any new hints, but appreciate the reminders. Thanks.
As a kid back in the last century , I used a sail on days when the wind was blowing where I wanted to go.
LOL
hey , it is there to use rite.
i like that idea.
I'm from the high plains of west Texas and I can relate to your comment Gerry LaMarsh.
I got a Pace Aventon ebike from Berts. How can I keep the ebike battery charged at the same time as I'm ridding to increase my distance. The Pace ebike is 500w and the charger is 48v.I have a Ever Start 750w Power Inverter and I attached it with a Scooter battery. So I went to Inter State and showed him how I hooked the battery to it to keep the ebike battery charged .He told me sense the charger is 48v I need 4 small batteries to make it 48v cause each battery is 12v. But see 1 scooter battery powered on the 750w power inverter. He told me to little volts can mess up some thing . Can any 1 add on that please ??
I used to do the same thing when flying ultralights long distances. The air at different altitudes varies in direction and intensity. I'd climb until I found air going the same way I was going. I've seen speeds double doing this. Powered parachutes fly at 26 MPH in still air. I've seen speeds as high as 60 MPH in mine, just by picking the right altitude.
You overlooked the most important free energy technique. I used it on my old Giant before I had an ebike and before I converted it. I put a bluetooth speaker on it and played thumping jams. My average speed went up 40%. My Fun Factor Tripled!!! Pump It Up!!! Wheelies are kinda free energy. But,,, Air Time is like Time Travel.
Fat man on a bike here my magicycle is 75lb out the box add 2 heavy duty locks est6lb + a new basket 3lb + trunk bag and saddle bags a d my at least 20 additional pounds and this all adds up to not getting the rang predicted 😂. Well I'm learning when ,where, and how to use the power of this beast of a bike❤. Plan B actually get in condition pedal and lay off the throttle 😁 which of course I love. All this may actually help me reduce my own tonnage😢. Anyway lots to learn ,work ahead 79 and optimistic thanks.
This is a very useful vid and I'm going to run thru it again along with the Comments below. I Did a similar test a year ago on my Cube Hybrid and managed to use up 1 bar on the 6 bar display over 16 miles on average/not-too-hilly terrain. One thing that I'm sure can affect the 'extra weight' element is the heavy D-lock we're likely to be carrying*. I may look into a lighter lock for occasions when the necessity to lock the bike for more than xx minutes becomes likely.. *With UK insurance policies re e-bikes, they recommend a Gold security standard lock and they can be heavy; fine for urban and shopping use but out on the trails and country rides a lighter alternative needs to be an option methinks..
I ordered a Bolton bike because of good customer service and the information you give in your videos. Now I hope my spring blackbird gets here 😂
Thank you for your time and experiments,, I believe ALL you said , facts, are correct,, THANKS
Hahahaha! Older video or not, the comical amount of tubes you had in your bags made me laugh so hard I went to slap my desk and apparently I smacked the Subscribe button. Thanks for the description about weight, I have a much better understanding of how much my 6 pound lock + my 5 pound delivery bag + my 12+ pounds of various gear has been impacting my escooter riding and how it will affect my beginner A to Z e-bike once it arrives.
knowing your bike cruising speed is key, thats my experience. each bike has its own "comfort zone" if you ride that you will get the max distance out of your battery. but the whole packages applies, if your load is more heavy you end up with less miles.
I have a 26" fat tire e-bike that gets around 62 miles miles per charge. It has a 1000w 48v brushless hub motor. The battery is a 48v, 16ah Panasonic. I keep the tire pressure at 20 psi. The terrain is just a very slight grade, and mostly flat. NE Ohio. I like to pedal, and then coast a lot. Especially down hill. I most generally only use PA 1, and 2 mostly. Sometimes 3, but very rarely. It's only a 4 mile commute to where I do my daily bidding. That's 8 miles round trip. I can go into town twice a week, and I only charge my battery once a week. If you ask me. The most important thing is a battery that gets at least 15 to 20 ah, or hook up 2 batteries in parallel. That's what i'm going to do next. That being said. I'm in my late 50's, and i'm never in a hurry to get anywhere on a bike. Been riding Bicycles since I could fit on one. ROLL ON!
What bike do you have?
@@gailjohnson6670 Lankeleisi XF4000. It's a BEAST!
I will follow your instructions concerning how to add more range to e-bike battery.
E bikes in the EU is limited to 15.5 MPH, so that is a little more energy efficient.
I live in Sweden, and 25 Km/h is more than sufficient for me.
I grew up in GV, I miss it sometimes!
Thank you for the tips and testing. A weight factor that I did not hear you say is the rider. I'm fat at 205 lbs, if I were 180 lbs like I was, the range should be better. I have also been carrying a chain, cable and U locks in my bags and for sure that will make a difference. I ride a Lectric XP bike and I have only charged it twice, but I'm getting around 15 miles per charge, but I enjoy just hitting the throttle instead of pedaling a lot.
As far as charging the battery, is it better to let it pretty much completely discharge or charge it when it goes about half ways down.
Charge it before it gets below 20% for the longest battery lifetime. And if you don't need all the range, unplug it from the charger before it reaches 100%. It's also important to avoid charging a cold battery, ideal charging temperature is 70 degrees. Also, on a warm day after you've finished a ride, put the battery in a cool place for a couple of hours before charging. Batteries heat up a bit from riding and from charging and the more it can be kept between 70-80 degrees when charging, the better.
@@ZipZoomZip Thanks for the tips.
My e-bike is peddle assist only and I’ve been able to get up to 60 miles in the low setting and around 4 hours of riding.
What type of ebike you have? I defininately would love to get more range from mine instead of buying a new bike.that's impressive for pedal assist only. I barely get 15 mile range on my bike. Of course I am 240 pounds which has an effect but i should be betting more than 15 miles.
@@johngildein7084 depends on how big the battery is the more amp hours the battery has the further you will go
Thanks man, great tips!
Is there an 8th tip? By buying smooth tires, with no knobs on it?
I noticed driving my e-bike (Sitgo / no pedals) that I would go an ride fast... fast. Even with time enough I would go fast, it just feels good, automatically.
But strangely I then realized I had no time limit and then started to ride 15 km/hr instead of 24 km/hr. Man that made a lot, a lot, of range extra.
It felt like wasting time, stupid and at the same time I could enjoy the surroundings way more.
I use all these tips. They help a lot. I notice on my gauge at full throttle I use lower amps if my mid drive motor is at a certain rpm. I n this case 7th gear vs. 10th gear. While doing so it will still reach the same speed.
I never actually knew what the suspension lovk outs were for but ill be using those now ;)
Found that trick awhile back and the difference is noticeable.
I have two mid drive bikes. both bikes are really enjoyable and efficient at 3rd biggest rear sprocket at 60% motor assistance.
Useful tips. Went faster on my ride today and wondered why took so much more power.
Best episode! Great channel, keep it up.
More awesome details as a large guy I can’t to try these tips when I get first e-bike in another week
Need the same information video for a direct drive motor. Many of the tips work but the pulse and coast does not, the drag even with power off is quite high. I can barely peddle my radcity in first gear with power off and the bike actually slows down going downhill. That said I can set the max speed to 20 km/h and when that speed is reached the power drops as I apply more peddling power. If I peddle past 20 to say 23, the display shows 000 watts, at 22 it is only 34 watts and 21 is about 65 watts. My longest ride so far was 55 km (34 miles) and got home just getting into the 3rd bar of 5. That's about the max I can do sitting on the bike so no worries for me getting home on that kind of ride. I expect I would easily get 70 miles as my area has no hills worth mentioning.
considering that I live in a state that has very high winds most of the year, I always ALWAYS check the weather to know which direction the wind is blowing from. Granted, I live in a very small community in the middle of Nebraska and don't putz around all to often on my ebike....knowing wind speed helps a ton. Heading up to the corner shop when the wind is blowing 30 mph, I know it is gonna be a struggle up the hill....return trip not so much. (today's ride, 16mph winds coming from the North with gusts up to 30mph)....like you said, bicycles are not the most aerodynamic, especially when riding a Dutch style cruiser.
Neat comments and concepts. I am just not living in that head space. I want a bike that is convenient for me, as I use it to commute to a professional workplace.
I have gone to a street tread, to get away from the whining knobby tires. They are higher pressure too (30 PSI vs 20 PSI max on knobby tires). But the tire change was just as much about a quieter ride, and a more planted ride on the roads as better energy economy. But I will say the bike coasts MUCH better. I do let off on the throttle earlier, when approaching a stop sign or a red light.
As the bike is used for commuting, it carries a battery powered compressor, two sets of locks, a set of tools, a patch kit, etc. I don't want a break-down or flat tire to turn into an ordeal where the spouse must be called, and haul all I need to get going again to my location.
But, if I wanted my bike to be a testbed for hypermiling, then these hints would be gold.
Looking forward to getting an e-bike whenever the supply of good bikes allows me to get on a list.
Why not build one? You can get the voilamart 1500w hub kit that has the controller built into the hub, and it is incredibly easy for a first time ebike owner to own/build. Just make sure you provide a frame with a 150mm drop out on the rear.
I try to peddle on the way and on the way back throttle !
Awesome video. We don't agree on much, but this really is excellent. Even on a traditional road or racing bike, 75% of your energy goes to overcoming wind resistance.
I would love to see you do this test again with the same weight and tire pressure. I say this because I pretty much always vheck tire pressure and my commute weight is pretty constant. I am curious what efficiency gains there are just out of the change of behavior.
My motto is always ride at 90-105% of my tire's maximum inflation pressure.
Instant performance improvement-reduce contact patch (no fat tires)
Another absolutely fantastic vid, thanks!!!!
Nature can clearly show you the real definition of “light and darkness” just imagine going through that road at night, xD damn
on flats i will be set 1 about 150 wats per hour, set 2 is 200, and set 3 is 250 , i only go up to set 6 on lowest gear on hills, set 6 is about 400 to 450 wats per hour, and set 7 to 9 is about 600 to 750 wats per hour. using the throttle eats your battery for fun. i can get 44 miles, and still have around 30 to 40% , left. on a 13.5 APH . i weigh 100 kg
Physics being about my favorite subject I believe the pulse and glide technique is useless in my opinion. Heat loss in the motor and controller under acceleration, wind resistance at the top speed etc. will probably average out to say the same battery usage as 14 to 15 mph if you did a 10 to 20 mph pulse and glide. I completely agree with the rest. Tire pressure, speed, 0 assist on flat or a hill small enough assist is not needed. If you use 100% people power you could go 1000 miles and still have 100% battery power. Yesterday, I did 10 miles in the sierra foot hills on assist level 1. The return trip in race mode. 400' elevation increase in the middle. 55% battery capacity at the end of the ride compared to 70 some % if I do both directions on assist 1 on a just under kwh battery. I think I'll try the trip on 0 assist until needed on the next rip and will post the results. No matter what, race mode was a lot more fun. It was kind of like riding a minibike home with a little pedaling on the hills......even got a thumbs up from a guy on a motorcycle......little did he know I normally do that trip on a Harley Road King. The ebike makes me get out and work my 61 year old butt a little. A good friend of mine bought a Bolton bike a couple of years ago. He is still tickled pink with it. After checking it out I started my quest for an ebike.
Thank you for the video. Have a blessed day.
You had your tires down to 12.5 PSI on the first ride?! I think I found your main problem, lol.
Seriously though, good tips and about what I expected. The fork lockout is more of a help for pedaling, not so much when on motor.
A couple other tips would be to decrease your max throttle and PAS speed in the settings, and keep your drivetrain well-lubricated (especially for mid drives).
I'm kinda sloppy in terms of not shy with the throttle, tire pressure not maxed, and suspension unlocked. BUT, I keep my bike well maintained and get around 40 miles per charge in hilly areas (RadMini 4). My range has improved since I got the bike, simply because I've gotten stronger myself.
I weigh about 100 pounds more than my brother, his battery last a lot longer, I bought a 110 volt inverter that runs off my Ryobi batteries and I think that gives me at least another 10 miles, I did just get my 2nd battery, that is about right for where I want to go, gonna add a geared motor to the front and turn my bile into a 2 wheel drive, Yesterday we ordered 10 gauge spokes for the back of my bike to handle my weight and all the crap I carry! I was only getting about 25 miles but riding faster than I should have.
Just purchased a black bird a few hours ago! Can’t wait to get it!!
TLDW:
1 - tire pressure
2 - accelerate slower
3 - hypermile: instead of holding a constant speed, slowly accelerate, coast for as long as possible (till about 5mph), then accelerate again
4 - ride slower
5 - lockout suspension, so that your bike doesn't use energy for vertical movement
6 - go on a diet, weight
7 - choose correct gear
Excellent info, I'm definitely going to try to implement at least some of those tips when I get my e-bike on the road, being a Cyclone 3D system, I'm not sure how to used the pulse and glide, you don't have as much ease of control with the limited display as on your bikes, but I'll try. Thanks for the video and excellent info. 🖖😎
May have missed it from the vid as I'm multitasking but elapsed time of each ride would be helpful.
Fantastic vid!
excellent presentation thank you for all you do
Im getting 10 miles per power bar. Pedaling and dirt roads, 3 hours of riding 3 bars out of 5. 36V 13 AH battery, I weight 150#. I charge after every ride, even 5 miles.
i just recently found a way to get a lot more range out of my batteries on my bike just by tweaking the settings in the display to make my bike think its a 36volt system instead of a 48v. Tho it causes the battery display to always show its fully charged even when its drained it lets the bike go a lot further before it kicks in the low voltage cut off which was cutting power to the bike any time my 48v battery got down below 46v despite setting the shutdown volts to 43. now i can go all the way till the battery is drawn down to about 20% or 42v before the power will cut off. which gives me about 20 to 25% higher range or another 4-5 mile by allowing me to use the rest of the power in my battery without it getting to discharged. the only drawback is that the battery % meter which was never acurite any way just shows its fully charged all the time. so instead i just set it to show the actual voltage instead which is a much better and more accurate way of knowing how much charge i have.
Very good explanation thank u
The new electric pump you offer works so good. I was riding an couldn't get past 15 mphs. An thought what's up.? Da., low tire pressure. Had 6lbs front. 5lbs back. Up it to 20lbs using that great electric pump you sale. Back to burning 🔥 rubber. Oh that reminds me. I need some 26 × 4 fat tires. What do you sale? Thanks again. 😊
Yea I weigh 350 lbs I’ll be lucky to reach the end of my driveway without killing the battery. I just ordered my bike. 750 watt 20amp hours
THANK YOU SO MUCH. EXCELLENT TIPS.
Thank you for all the info . I am new to the ebike experience and in the process of getting the right gear ,I would like to know the name of the bike pump you used in this video thanks
Excellent info and video. Thank you so much.
Range Anxiety wasn't a thing til I got a bike with a BaFang M620/Ultra, The thing is a huge battery killer.
You are the man!! Great tips!! Thank you
Thanks for asking. I live in a very hilly area where on a grocery run I encounter 9 hills ranging from a 6° to 10° grade and numerous stop signs. So range is critical for me. I found a formula for Wh/mi and with that now built into a spreadsheet I know with a fresh battery how far I can go and if I stop somewhere I can also see how many miles I have left. Once I had this figured out, I could test different routes, different PAS levels with different gears used and fine tune my experience. What makes no sense to me is why ebike manufacturers don’t build this formula into their controllers. It’s an easy formula that provides accurate results. Please comment, I’d like to know your thoughts.
Would need proper geographic data, Apps/smartphone, internet access...
As standalone/universal app customizable to the given vehicle probably interesting, but i would have not much trust if a e bike manufacturer would hire any cheap programmer to make a good software.
Great Vid. Will apply these tips immediately!
I just got my first e-bike, 20 miles yesterday, 30 today. Watched this video today before I went riding. I have 24" fatty with Bafang Ultra mid-drive. Manufacture PR suggest 57 miles on 1 charge. Being an experienced road cyclist what you suggested all makes loads of sense, except I will carry enough crap to fix what's likely to break. In 10000+ miles only a bolt falling out of the drive train and broken chain (I sure thought I had a spare link) left me stranded.
Today I discovered that on fairly level roads I can pedal with 0 assist to 15 or so mph and using that momentum can get up short hills. I'm guessing I put on 5 miles unassisted, not counting coasting downhills. Seriously I was surprised at how easy the big fat toad was to ride unassisted, though I shouldn't have been.
Yesterday's 20 miler was all pas1, I assumed it was necessary, silly me. Because I was on a bike trail with loads of pedestrians, dogs and kids I kept the speed down, as I also did today, until I got to the county roads. If I was serious about it I probably could have ridden pas 0 for close to half the two rides and pas1 the balance. I've had no reason to try pas 2 or higher, with 1 I can easily hit 20 which is plenty fast enough for me. After the 50 miles I still had 1/4 battery remainin, which means nothing at the moment, save I had power to spare when I got home.
Thanks for all the very informative videos, you do a great job.
No