i honestly like how your car sits, it's actually different from whats trending right now, stance, deep dish wheels, camber. all dat, you keepin it real dawg. HOLLA BACK ONE LOVE.
That car is sick bro. Nice job building it. Totally jealous. I have a 96 DX w/b16a and building up an LSVTEC turbo motor as we speak. Need to address my suspension while its cold here. Thanks for the vids, big help.
Yes. ALL EM1's came with 13mm rear sway bars from the factory. Either the person removed the rear sway bar off the one you saw or that wasn't a real EM1 (2000 Civic Si). There's a reason why Honda put a rear sway bar on the EM1s. The Civics are front-wheel drive cars which tend to have a lot of understeer. A strong enough sway bar in the rear will reduce understeer and also dramatically reduce body roll if the bar is thick enough.
...even adjusting it manually with your hand is not enough because you want it to turn the mirrors even more past their limit but there's nothing practical we can do about that. A lot of people complain about RHD mirrors in LHD cars because of this very reason. I have absolutely no problem at all because I sit so close to the steering wheel that I am able to view both mirrors very very well instead most people sitting very far back when cruising. Not only that, You have to wire about 8...
A rear sway bar is a very good idea but the Integra GSR has a 14mm sway bar which in time attack racing is enough. In front wheel drive cars with a big rear sway bar can increase the amount of understeer. It's also cheaper and easier to find a GSR sway bar for cheap.
...you don't want power adjust, only POWER FOLD. I rarely even use my power fold unless it's an emergency like in crammed spaces. Power fold is much easier. It's like 3 or 4 VERY LONG wires. There like 3 tutorial pages you can find on the internet search but I cannot tell you exactly where I found mine. Just search it up. You have to trust me on this when I say power adjust is ABSOLUTELY USELESS and not only that but it actually DOES MORE HARM to hook up the power adjust like I mentioned earlier
Hello Michael I have a couple questions. One why did you choose BWR over ASR or any other brands? And how do you like the handling from the BRW? I am curious because I an looking to get a set up soon! My second question is I have the em1 chassis will then itr or ctr front and rear sway bars fit on my car? Thanks and another great video Michael!
+Alonzo Cates I got BWR because so many people do the ASR look all the time and they even have replicas of ASR braces too because of how popular it's gotten. I chose BWR because I like the zig zag design and the quality of it is strong enough to handle the car I put it through in the races. EM1 has side mounted front sway bars which means it uses the BIGGER front sway bars; this means that you can install a CTR/ITR front sway bar in with no problem. However, the rear sway bar for you is different. The EM1, like all the other Civics and Integras besides the Type R's, use the smaller sway bars from the factory. There's holes on the stock subframe that is only spaced out enough to hold the smaller bars like anything 18mm and smaller. The Type Rs use the bigger sway bars and so do other popular aftermarket brands like ASR, Progressive, Hard Racing, etc. This means that for you to use a ITR/CTR rear sway bar, you need an aftermarket subframe brace which usually will have more holes drilled in it for you to choose either a small or a large sway bar.
+Michael Flare I am sorry for the late response but thank you soo much Michael you always give great advice! If I can't find ctr I will just go with one of the brands you mentioned. but what mm sway bardo you suggest I upgrade to in the rear? Thanks
First off great video man, I have a little question, I am running the silkroad ram8's coil overs with rear type r integra lower control arms in my eg, I was wondering what sway bar would fit the eg? I looked up asr and all they have is type r sway bar for type r integra, it doesn't say anything about interchanging the sway bar to a eg that is running type r suspension. I hope I didn't confuse you? Sick ek9 btw
+illestk24civic Thank you. The sway bar fitment mainly depends on your D-bracket mounting points! These brackets attach to where the rear lower subframe is. The smaller sway bars have the holes closer together than the larger sway bars obviously. Since you have an EG, I really think you have the smaller sway bar fitment holes. However! If you have an aftermarket rear lower subframe like ASR, BlackWorks, Function7, etc., then you have a choice to use the bigger or smaller sway bars that you want to attach because they usually have 6 holes for the D brackets meaning you choose the appropriate holes for the sway bar. If you do get an aftermarket one, make sure there's 6 holes. To answer your question, I think your car uses the smaller sway bars which are the ones less than 18mm I think! I'm not completely sure which one your car uses but just make sure.
So I bought an Acura Integra type-r sway bar and control arms but noticed that my honda integra dc1 body does not have the holes for it. The holes on the car are closer versus the type-r sway bar which has a wider hole bracket. What I didnt see in your video is where the subframe brace bolt that goes in the countersink hole tightens into on your car. It seems for the bar you had to use this for the lower bolt for the sway bar bracket?
Great video. Love that set up. Do you know if asr sells the rear bracket desperately and do you if it will fit the BWR set up? I wouldn't mind getting that rear plate for more support.
Did you mean rear bracket or brace? The ASR rear sway bar should come with the D brackets for installation of the bar. ASR does have their own subframe brace too. Also, the ASR large rear sway bar will fit the BWR subframe brace.
Thanks for the install vid. What would be the best sequence to install a stock rear sway bar with pre-loading the suspension one side at a time by placing a jack underneath the rear LCA till the weight of the car is off the stand? Tighten each individual end-link first under vehicle load then tighten the D-bracket bolts or vice versa?
BOTH sides in the rear need to be preloaded at the same time; I know, it's weird and dangerous so be careful. Make sure you have jack stands at the rear jack mount on both sides just in case the other ones slip off the LCA or hub. First, you LIGHTLY HAND TIGHTEN all the bolts and nuts associated with the sway bar (end link & D bracket). Before the suspension is preloaded though, you can tighten and torque the endlinks (22 ft/lb) to both the LCA and the sway bar because the endlink here is a ball-stud type rather than a bushing so it can still move freely after being torqued own. Now, preload both sides like I mentioned before. Finally, torque the bolts/nuts that hold the D bracket to the subframe (16 ft/lb). I call them D-brackets but I think the proper term is "bushing clamps". Good luck.
@@MichaelFlare Thank you for the insight. With the car on jack-stands I loosened the bushing clamp bolts followed by loosely threading in the end-link bolts. I then lowered the car to the ground and torqued all the bolts to oem spec. I had just enough room to squeeze underneath the car and use a torque wrench. I noticed the end-links are not aligned 100% vertically due to using non oem LCA's (Hardrace). I intend on ordering adjustable spherical end-links to hopefully correct the geometry.
Hey Michael, great videos! I was wondering, what size nuts and bolts did you purchase to mount your sway bar and brace? Also, which holes did you put the stock BWR bolts through or did you scrap those for different nuts and bolts? I have a 2000 CX civic and purchased the same setup you have (minus the tie bar) and Im confused about the bolts that came with my BWR subframe brace. It came with no nuts, 4 mounting screws for the brackets that attach to the BWR brace and then 4 longer bolts that Im not 100% sure how to mount. Any info or even pictures on how you mounted your sway bar and brace to the civic subframe would be helpful. Thanks in advance!
+Eric Mueller I don't remember the exact sizing of the nuts and bolts. The LCA bolts do not require a nut because the other side of the car's subframe has a welded nut with threads which is where the bolts thread into. For the bolts to attached the D bracket on the sway bar to the subframe brace, I had to go to a hardware store (I chose ACE Hardware because they have the best variety of sizing in my opinion especially in metric). For this, you have to get not only a bolt but also a nut so that the bolt can be threaded and tightened on the other side of the subframe brace. Make sure you measure the clearance first before you go buy it. You should buy a bolt that will go through the holes and a a little bit more past the hole on the other side of the brace not too long that it will hit the car's subframe. You'll see what I mean when you measure it. The bolt you buy can't be too short or too long. I suggest you buy different lengths just in case and then you can always return the incorrect lengths after to save you time from going back and forth. The nut you buy will be screwed on the bolt which is in BETWEEN the brace and the subframe which is somewhat a tight spot so you'll be using a normal wrench, not a socket wrench.
Thank you for your reply. I will take your word for not hooking up the power adjust, however can you post a link or maybe tell me what color wires you used to hook up the power fold option? I can not find any diagram on the web for the switch with the built in relay. Thanks
ateK I don't know the exact size. Sorry. It uses the same diameter and pitch size as your stock subframe bolts so you can take your stock one out and measure it at a hardware store.
nice vid i also have some questions,1 did you purchase the whole BWR combo subframe lca and tie bar and i have a 4 door teg and im going to do the same set up with the BWR but what kind of sway bar would you recomend for me that fits and since mines a 4 door could i use the itr sway bar and would adjustable endlinks be good? thanks
+Cat Tran Not all 3 parts of mine came as a combo. My subframe brace and LCA"s came as a combo I think for JHPUSA. If you get an aftermarket subframe brace like BWR, ASR, Function 7, etc, then you can get any swap bar you want because they have different holes for the different sized sway bar D brackets to mount. I would get the bigger set of sway bars like anything higher than 20mm in the rear for you.
+Michael Flare nice so what about the endlinks??? i was looking to get some "BLOX" endlinks but was scared they wouldnt fit to my "any sway bar" and the ''BLOX" endlinks are adjustable but i get all my stuff from ebay so thats why i ask thanks LOL the VIDEO where you was gonna show your motor so funny
I think you can use any endlinks you want. The one I got was an OEM style endlink at my local auto parts store. OEM style meaning it's not the fancy spherical ones. If yours is adjustable, then makes it even more likely to fit your setup.
IM TALKING ABOUT THIS SPECIFIC CAR MAN, tryna get smart with me, the people in the scene are all about fitment and slammed and stuff. you don't see many hatches like stock and clean.
They are both very different and a lot of people often get confused between the two terms. A strut bar focuses on reducing the chassis flex at the strut towers (right above the springs/struts). A sway bar is underneath the chassis rather than above like the strut bar. A sway bar does not focus on chassis flex at all; it's main goal is to reduce body roll as much as possible. It does this by linking the two lower control arms together so they are both dependent to each other to reduce body roll. To answer your ultimate question, a sway bar is 100X more effective than a strut bar if dealing with reduced body roll.
Tell Ryu to stfu! But.....back on topic. I went from a progress 22 to an asr 24..asr is definitely heavier, but the turn-in is noticeably quicker and much smoother.
I basically am because I'm using OEM replacement style endlinks from an auto store. If you watch my FRONT SWAY BAR tutorial, then you will see the exact torque spec that I provided for the D brackets as side note (anecdote) in the video.
hey michael, stressin out man, i just got front and rear type r sway bar for my RS integra, and I dont know if it is going to fit. They both come with OEM end links and bushings, but would I need new D brackets or would I have to buy a whole separate kit for them?
I don't think it will fit. Your car (DC-RS) uses a 12.9mm rear sway bar for Coupes and 14mm for Sedans. On a Civic, these sizes use the smaller D brackets which means the mounting holes on the subframe in the rear is different. The Type R uses 22mm [USDM] or 24mm [JDM] which requires the outer mounting holes in the subframe. For the Civic, any front sway bar less than 22mm uses a different mounting style than the Type R's 26mm front sway bar. The LCA's are different, the strut forks are different, and the end links are different which requires you to change all of those on the Civic. Because Civic and Integra is so related to each other, I really think that the Integra follows the same idea for the front and rear sway bars. It's easy for the rear; all you need is a subframe brace that has the outer mounting holes for a larger sway bar like the Type R's.
Did you have any clear nice problems when you were installing it on the passenger side? I'm trying to install an asr bar in only hatch and it's hitting my vibrant muffler. Already tried taking it to multiple shops and they have told me that I should get a muffler with staggered inlet and outlet so I'll have a better chance of it fitting. Thanks for any help
No I didn't have any clearance problems. My car isn't super low like the stance people so I don't know. A muffler shop can't cut the inlet on your muffler and make a custom piping bending differently to fit?
Michael Flare im actually only on lowering springs. the clearence problem is between the right lca and the inlet of the muffler. does your muffler have the inlet and outlet lined up or staggered? ive tried goong to multipel shops and they make it seem like its impossible to do anything other than get a new muffler.
Michael Flare I guess I'll just I'll keep looking for a better shop. Tired of just having the sway bar sitting around. I had one last question. Where do you get the torque specs?
Hey michael I know this is unrelated to the video but im having the hardest time connecting my 99/00 ek9 power folding mirrors, I have the pigtails and I have the switch with the built in relay, can you tell me how you did yours? -justin
is it a real RHD EK9 mirror? Is it going in a RHD or LHD car? Are you talking about wiring the power fold or power adjust? If your putting it in a LHD car, then power adjusting on these mirrors is absolutely useless; in fact, it's even worse to hook up the wires for it. Let me explain, these RHD mirrors are MADE for RHD seats so they point towards the right seat. Adjusting the mirrors with your hand lets you move it MORE than the power adjust because the power as a shorter limit...
I have a 98 spec 23 mm JDM ITR rear swaybar for my dc2. I have a big problem mounting to my BWR subframe and lca with beaks.... I'm using blox endlinks but I cannot find the mounting brackets with bushings please help me were can I get a set of mounting brackets and bushings for my setup.
Hi, I'm planning to install the same CTR swaybar on my car and I was wondering for the reason why there's a need to preload the tires. Does this have to do with the bushings or the position of the endlinks. By the way, my lca are still OEM. Thanks!!
The purpose of preloading is all about the bushings. Different angles of the LCA will put different stress on the bushings. You want the bushing to be locked at the angle where the car will be sitting at the most which is in it's preloaded position (entire car's weight on the suspension). I could be wrong but I read this is necessary or your bushings will wear out really early. Why not just take the extra time (no more than 5 minutes) preloading the suspension while tightening the bolts? Better safe than sorry and it's definitely worth the extra time.
I've gone everywhere local auto parts and my tunner shop called tri state motorsports and no one can help me. the only thing that can possible work for me is energysuspension brackets and bushings but again I don't know if thier 22 mm will fit in my 23 mm rear swaybar. can you please help me and tell me where you purchased your rear swaybar brackets and bushings. or if anyone ells here on youtube can help me... thanks in advance!!!!
My rear sway bar bracket and bushing came with my EK9 sway bar. You should check eBay, they have everything. 23mm sway bars use the same bracket as 22mm sway bar I think; it's the bushing that is different for different size sway bars.
jdmegfan Certain types of endlinks are threaded. Mine is the OEM style end links which are threaded and my lower control arms are threaded too. Some lower control arms are not threaded and require you to have a nut on the opposite side of the end link to secure it in place.
What do you mean by strut bar? I never showed any strut bar in this video because my rear strut bar is inside the rear cabin of the car. The sway bar in the video is attached to the BWR rear lower control arms at the endlinks and the sway bar bushings in the middle with the D brackets are attached to the BWR rear lower subframe brace.
Did you install that 2 little backing plate for your subframe brace with the ctr sway bar on..I want to know if its necessary.? Also I running funtion 7 brace
Yes, you need to install the backing plates behind the rear lower subframe brace because the originally subframe on the car isn't completely a flat surface. The plates have grooves in them that will flatten the surface against the brace in order to have even pressure throughout the brace.
...different wires and you have to run those 8 VERY LONG wires to the pigtail harness behind the switch which you will notice that it's not even worth it because you will NEVER use the power adjust in USA. You'll understand what I mean. I have the exact same 2000 EK9 built in relay harness switch too. I spend over 3 hours one night trying get the wiring right but failed. I'm so glad I wasn't able to because it would have been a waste. trust me, I've thought it through for hours...
What kind of bolts and nuts did you get? I will be doing this on my em1 99-00 Si and am going to use the stock sway bar and end links. I dont know what size bolts and strength wise what kind when attaching the sway bar to the bwr subframe brace. I need your help!!!
If your're using the stock sway bar, then you should already have bolts from it to use. Because you are adding a brace to the car's original subframe, it'll be thicker. You might get lucky and still have enough thread to bolt it back on the subframe brace. However, I did not have enought thread so I bought the exact time of nut and bolt dimensions exepter longer. I went to Ace Hardware because that place is famous for having a large variety of sizes especially import. Home Depot and Lowe's are geared towards Domestic sizes so I give up looking for bolts there unless its something unspecific. Since the EM1 uses a smaller sway bar size, you'll be using the two CLOSER vertical bolt holes out of the 3 for the sway bar on the brace. I have the Type R sway bar which is the larger size and I used the OUTER holes. I need a nut on the opposite size too to secure the bolt in place (opposed to stock mount which has the threads in the original subframe alraedy).
is that the same as you would do it on an Integra gsr ? I have a bwr subframe and had to take out the sway bar cuz it wouldn't fit , I now have a blox sway bar but the oem end links are not working 🤔 somebody help me out please
I'm so sorry but I don't know the bolt size. What I used to do when I didn't know bolt sizes was I would go to a hardware store (preferably Ace Hardware, not Home Depot because Home Depot is extremely limited in metric bolts) and get several different size bolts and nuts in pairs. I would try them when I get home and return all the bolts that don't fit.
Stock brackets should fit the bar. The BWR brace has 6 holes to hold sway bar. 6 because it lets you hold smaller or larger bars. You want to choose the holes that fit your bracket.
I don't know the exact dimensions of it but it is the factory style replacement that I got from my local auto parts store. So it's the OEM specs on the endlinks. Yes, most likely the 1999-2000 Civic Si OEM end links.
Hi Michael. I was wondering if you know where can I get the D bracket for my sway bar from a Acura integra gsr db8, because the stock ones are to small for my bwr frame.
+Michael Flare thank you so much. I have a question for you. Do you work in cars? I kinda need some help with mine gsr. Thank you for your help Michael
+Michael Flare oh is nothing pretty difficult, I would like you to check my car and tell me what should I do to it, I don't know a lot about Hondas. I just bought my gsr and my type R integra but the one I want to build is the gsr since I want the type R as stocks as I can because increase the value of it, but is if you can
Kit for what? Subframe bracing? I think Function 7 subframe and LCA is the probably the best out quality but some might argue that it's quality is beyond necessary.
+Freddy Rodriguez The subframe brace and lower control arms that I have will not fit an EF. However, if you have aftermarket EF subframe brace and LCA, you might be able to use the same sway bar that I used but I'm not completely sure.
No. I'm not completely sure but I know that the EF has a very different chassis than EK to the point where they can't use most suspension parts together.
Michael Flare. I have a 98 spec ITR rear seat bar 23 mm I have everything to mount them on my BWR subframe and lca but I don't have the D-brakets with bushings. Please let me know where you purchased the D-brakets and bushings or do you know where I can purchase a set so I can finish my suspension setup..... my suspension is the same as yours. same bwr subframe and lca your swaybar is 22 mm but mine is 23 mm so I know you can help me thanks in advance
your stock rear lca's will do. the only thing I say would be better then stock is *maybe* upgraded bushings like polys or spherical bearings in your stock lca's. added stiffness and suspension geometry as it should be.
David Rey Hernandez - Almost all subframe braves will come with 6 holes instead of the 4 from the OEM subframe. There are two groups of sway bar sizes. These aftermarket braces can hold both because you choose the holes according to the sway bar size. I think anything above 20mm uses the farther holes while anything under 20mm is closer holes. The sway bar bushings is what actually holds the bar properly so those have to be correct size.
kamaka96791 Not the rotors; it was on the hubs. Yes, it's unsafe. That is why I put jackstands at the frame corners of the car so that if it does slip, it doesn't fall on the ground.
No. It will not. The mounts on all the non Type R Civics are meant to hold the smaller sway bars. If you want the larger sway bar, you have to get an aftermarket subframe brace.
If you're going to circuit race the car or want better handling around corners, then get a sway bar. The bigger ones are stiffer. If you don't, then no sway bar is fine.
+Michael Flare I have some black works I was going to put on my integra but my skunk 2 pro c are to wide for the bushing I would have to use a spacer of some sort
Are you sure you got the correct LCA for your car? I don't understand how it would be the wrong size if you got the one labeled for your car. BlackWorks is good on fitment. Spacers would work but try to see if you have the correct LCA, though.
I did some research and people said that some bushings require grease and some should not have them. Also, there are different types of grease compounds for different types of bushings so it's important to know which one to use too. I did not lube the stock bushings that came with the sway bar.
i honestly like how your car sits, it's actually different from whats trending right now, stance, deep dish wheels, camber. all dat, you keepin it real dawg. HOLLA BACK ONE LOVE.
Damn man that car is clean as hell!
That car is sick bro. Nice job building it. Totally jealous. I have a 96 DX w/b16a and building up an LSVTEC turbo motor as we speak. Need to address my suspension while its cold here. Thanks for the vids, big help.
Yes. ALL EM1's came with 13mm rear sway bars from the factory. Either the person removed the rear sway bar off the one you saw or that wasn't a real EM1 (2000 Civic Si). There's a reason why Honda put a rear sway bar on the EM1s. The Civics are front-wheel drive cars which tend to have a lot of understeer. A strong enough sway bar in the rear will reduce understeer and also dramatically reduce body roll if the bar is thick enough.
Nice vid, clear explanation. Thumbs up from Malaysia!
Damn what a nice clean ek hatch. Now, civics are not my fav jdm cars, but oh man, the ek and eg hatch are beautiful
Thanks for the videos bro makes life easier I've Learned a lot
Great video! Trying to learn more about cars and your videos are very educational and helpful :O
bro turn your music down or off. audio too muddy
Awesome video michael, informative and entertaining !!
9:42 for those who dont know that song is from the PS2 game "Auto Modelista" great song and great game
The switch harness wires is directly color coded with the wire harness connected to the mirrors. You just follow the colors.
Awesome footage! I can't thank you enough
...even adjusting it manually with your hand is not enough because you want it to turn the mirrors even more past their limit but there's nothing practical we can do about that. A lot of people complain about RHD mirrors in LHD cars because of this very reason. I have absolutely no problem at all because I sit so close to the steering wheel that I am able to view both mirrors very very well instead most people sitting very far back when cruising. Not only that, You have to wire about 8...
nice! thanks for the vid, goin to add a rear sway bar to my 94 del sol Si
Rear end rock strong.
Hadoken!! Haha This video was helpful thanks just installed my eibach 17mm sway bar on my ej8, your right best upgrade for suspension !!!
great vids I'm glad a found your channel!!
A rear sway bar is a very good idea but the Integra GSR has a 14mm sway bar which in time attack racing is enough. In front wheel drive cars with a big rear sway bar can increase the amount of understeer. It's also cheaper and easier to find a GSR sway bar for cheap.
Honda Crx Si came stock with front and rear sway bars also.
miss your vids :( civic still looking good :D
liking for the auto modelista music
Your cool in my book. Your listing to ff8 eyes on me in this. Just thought that was kinds cool
well done great job bwr asr etc are all great budget and purpose plays a big part keep it going i see you dance cool
...you don't want power adjust, only POWER FOLD. I rarely even use my power fold unless it's an emergency like in crammed spaces. Power fold is much easier. It's like 3 or 4 VERY LONG wires. There like 3 tutorial pages you can find on the internet search but I cannot tell you exactly where I found mine. Just search it up. You have to trust me on this when I say power adjust is ABSOLUTELY USELESS and not only that but it actually DOES MORE HARM to hook up the power adjust like I mentioned earlier
thanks for the tip!
on a dj okawari background music it's great!
Thanks now I can sneak on my dads 2017 Nissan Murano and install this
Amazing build!
Maybe you want the LHD dash with Center vent, center console etc ?
Would look more EK9 i think :)
you should make more driving videos!
I've got anti-roll bar for my Crx Del Sol. I got my bar 13mm from EG5 Civic - but it changed a lot...
Hello Michael I have a couple questions. One why did you choose BWR over ASR or any other brands? And how do you like the handling from the BRW? I am curious because I an looking to get a set up soon! My second question is I have the em1 chassis will then itr or ctr front and rear sway bars fit on my car? Thanks and another great video Michael!
+Alonzo Cates I got BWR because so many people do the ASR look all the time and they even have replicas of ASR braces too because of how popular it's gotten. I chose BWR because I like the zig zag design and the quality of it is strong enough to handle the car I put it through in the races. EM1 has side mounted front sway bars which means it uses the BIGGER front sway bars; this means that you can install a CTR/ITR front sway bar in with no problem. However, the rear sway bar for you is different. The EM1, like all the other Civics and Integras besides the Type R's, use the smaller sway bars from the factory. There's holes on the stock subframe that is only spaced out enough to hold the smaller bars like anything 18mm and smaller. The Type Rs use the bigger sway bars and so do other popular aftermarket brands like ASR, Progressive, Hard Racing, etc. This means that for you to use a ITR/CTR rear sway bar, you need an aftermarket subframe brace which usually will have more holes drilled in it for you to choose either a small or a large sway bar.
+Michael Flare I am sorry for the late response but thank you soo much Michael you always give great advice! If I can't find ctr I will just go with one of the brands you mentioned. but what mm sway bardo you suggest I upgrade to in the rear? Thanks
Factory CTR or ITR, ASR, Whiteline Racing, Progress, etc.
First off great video man, I have a little question, I am running the silkroad ram8's coil overs with rear type r integra lower control arms in my eg, I was wondering what sway bar would fit the eg? I looked up asr and all they have is type r sway bar for type r integra, it doesn't say anything about interchanging the sway bar to a eg that is running type r suspension. I hope I didn't confuse you? Sick ek9 btw
+illestk24civic Thank you. The sway bar fitment mainly depends on your D-bracket mounting points! These brackets attach to where the rear lower subframe is. The smaller sway bars have the holes closer together than the larger sway bars obviously. Since you have an EG, I really think you have the smaller sway bar fitment holes. However! If you have an aftermarket rear lower subframe like ASR, BlackWorks, Function7, etc., then you have a choice to use the bigger or smaller sway bars that you want to attach because they usually have 6 holes for the D brackets meaning you choose the appropriate holes for the sway bar. If you do get an aftermarket one, make sure there's 6 holes. To answer your question, I think your car uses the smaller sway bars which are the ones less than 18mm I think! I'm not completely sure which one your car uses but just make sure.
So I bought an Acura Integra type-r sway bar and control arms but noticed that my honda integra dc1 body does not have the holes for it. The holes on the car are closer versus the type-r sway bar which has a wider hole bracket. What I didnt see in your video is where the subframe brace bolt that goes in the countersink hole tightens into on your car. It seems for the bar you had to use this for the lower bolt for the sway bar bracket?
i know a place were a real type r is for sale for like 5k and its in pretty good condition
Great video. Love that set up. Do you know if asr sells the rear bracket desperately and do you if it will fit the BWR set up? I wouldn't mind getting that rear plate for more support.
Did you mean rear bracket or brace? The ASR rear sway bar should come with the D brackets for installation of the bar. ASR does have their own subframe brace too. Also, the ASR large rear sway bar will fit the BWR subframe brace.
Thanks for the install vid. What would be the best sequence to install a stock rear sway bar with pre-loading the suspension one side at a time by placing a jack underneath the rear LCA till the weight of the car is off the stand? Tighten each individual end-link first under vehicle load then tighten the D-bracket bolts or vice versa?
BOTH sides in the rear need to be preloaded at the same time; I know, it's weird and dangerous so be careful. Make sure you have jack stands at the rear jack mount on both sides just in case the other ones slip off the LCA or hub. First, you LIGHTLY HAND TIGHTEN all the bolts and nuts associated with the sway bar (end link & D bracket). Before the suspension is preloaded though, you can tighten and torque the endlinks (22 ft/lb) to both the LCA and the sway bar because the endlink here is a ball-stud type rather than a bushing so it can still move freely after being torqued own. Now, preload both sides like I mentioned before. Finally, torque the bolts/nuts that hold the D bracket to the subframe (16 ft/lb). I call them D-brackets but I think the proper term is "bushing clamps". Good luck.
@@MichaelFlare Thank you for the insight. With the car on jack-stands I loosened the bushing clamp bolts followed by loosely threading in the end-link bolts. I then lowered the car to the ground and torqued all the bolts to oem spec. I had just enough room to squeeze underneath the car and use a torque wrench. I noticed the end-links are not aligned 100% vertically due to using non oem LCA's (Hardrace). I intend on ordering adjustable spherical end-links to hopefully correct the geometry.
No, I'm ALMOST DONE. The front sway bar is coming. After that, I am finally done with my car's suspension.
Hey Michael, great videos!
I was wondering, what size nuts and bolts did you purchase to mount your sway bar and brace? Also, which holes did you put the stock BWR bolts through or did you scrap those for different nuts and bolts?
I have a 2000 CX civic and purchased the same setup you have (minus the tie bar) and Im confused about the bolts that came with my BWR subframe brace. It came with no nuts, 4 mounting screws for the brackets that attach to the BWR brace and then 4 longer bolts that Im not 100% sure how to mount.
Any info or even pictures on how you mounted your sway bar and brace to the civic subframe would be helpful. Thanks in advance!
+Eric Mueller I don't remember the exact sizing of the nuts and bolts. The LCA bolts do not require a nut because the other side of the car's subframe has a welded nut with threads which is where the bolts thread into. For the bolts to attached the D bracket on the sway bar to the subframe brace, I had to go to a hardware store (I chose ACE Hardware because they have the best variety of sizing in my opinion especially in metric). For this, you have to get not only a bolt but also a nut so that the bolt can be threaded and tightened on the other side of the subframe brace. Make sure you measure the clearance first before you go buy it. You should buy a bolt that will go through the holes and a a little bit more past the hole on the other side of the brace not too long that it will hit the car's subframe. You'll see what I mean when you measure it. The bolt you buy can't be too short or too long. I suggest you buy different lengths just in case and then you can always return the incorrect lengths after to save you time from going back and forth. The nut you buy will be screwed on the bolt which is in BETWEEN the brace and the subframe which is somewhat a tight spot so you'll be using a normal wrench, not a socket wrench.
Thank you for your reply. I will take your word for not hooking up the power adjust, however can you post a link or maybe tell me what color wires you used to hook up the power fold option? I can not find any diagram on the web for the switch with the built in relay. Thanks
hey Michael quick question I mean you might have answered this but will you ever do a right hand conversion to the civic?
hey michael great video. whats the size of the bolt and nuts for the brackets into subframe? i cant find any at the hardware store
ateK I don't know the exact size. Sorry. It uses the same diameter and pitch size as your stock subframe bolts so you can take your stock one out and measure it at a hardware store.
nice vid i also have some questions,1 did you purchase the whole BWR combo subframe lca and tie bar and i have a 4 door teg and im going to do the same set up with the BWR but what kind of sway bar would you recomend for me that fits and since mines a 4 door could i use the itr sway bar and would adjustable endlinks be good? thanks
+Cat Tran Not all 3 parts of mine came as a combo. My subframe brace and LCA"s came as a combo I think for JHPUSA. If you get an aftermarket subframe brace like BWR, ASR, Function 7, etc, then you can get any swap bar you want because they have different holes for the different sized sway bar D brackets to mount. I would get the bigger set of sway bars like anything higher than 20mm in the rear for you.
+Michael Flare nice so what about the endlinks??? i was looking to get some "BLOX" endlinks but was scared they wouldnt fit to my "any sway bar" and the ''BLOX" endlinks are adjustable but i get all my stuff from ebay so thats why i ask thanks LOL the VIDEO where you was gonna show your motor so funny
I think you can use any endlinks you want. The one I got was an OEM style endlink at my local auto parts store. OEM style meaning it's not the fancy spherical ones. If yours is adjustable, then makes it even more likely to fit your setup.
+Michael Flare thanks alot bro, im just worried im going to order,get the wrong part so thats why i ask, keep up the GOOD videos.
IM TALKING ABOUT THIS SPECIFIC CAR MAN, tryna get smart with me, the people in the scene are all about fitment and slammed and stuff. you don't see many hatches like stock and clean.
what it better one between Strut Bars Vs Sway bars or (Anti Roll Bars)? It look like they both doing the same jobs. thank you
They are both very different and a lot of people often get confused between the two terms. A strut bar focuses on reducing the chassis flex at the strut towers (right above the springs/struts). A sway bar is underneath the chassis rather than above like the strut bar. A sway bar does not focus on chassis flex at all; it's main goal is to reduce body roll as much as possible. It does this by linking the two lower control arms together so they are both dependent to each other to reduce body roll. To answer your ultimate question, a sway bar is 100X more effective than a strut bar if dealing with reduced body roll.
Yeasss.. Im malaysian 😄
Tell Ryu to stfu! But.....back on topic. I went from a progress 22 to an asr 24..asr is definitely heavier, but the turn-in is noticeably quicker and much smoother.
Hey Michael, are you using CTR end links? and are the D brackets torqued down to 20lbs too?
I basically am because I'm using OEM replacement style endlinks from an auto store. If you watch my FRONT SWAY BAR tutorial, then you will see the exact torque spec that I provided for the D brackets as side note (anecdote) in the video.
Noob question... Do i need to install sway bar if im just using the car for daily driving?
No, you do not.
hey michael, stressin out man, i just got front and rear type r sway bar for my RS integra, and I dont know if it is going to fit. They both come with OEM end links and bushings, but would I need new D brackets or would I have to buy a whole separate kit for them?
I don't think it will fit. Your car (DC-RS) uses a 12.9mm rear sway bar for Coupes and 14mm for Sedans. On a Civic, these sizes use the smaller D brackets which means the mounting holes on the subframe in the rear is different. The Type R uses 22mm [USDM] or 24mm [JDM] which requires the outer mounting holes in the subframe. For the Civic, any front sway bar less than 22mm uses a different mounting style than the Type R's 26mm front sway bar. The LCA's are different, the strut forks are different, and the end links are different which requires you to change all of those on the Civic. Because Civic and Integra is so related to each other, I really think that the Integra follows the same idea for the front and rear sway bars. It's easy for the rear; all you need is a subframe brace that has the outer mounting holes for a larger sway bar like the Type R's.
4:53 pre load the SUSUSUSUSUSUSUSUSUSPENCION!!!!!!!!!
Did you have any clear nice problems when you were installing it on the passenger side? I'm trying to install an asr bar in only hatch and it's hitting my vibrant muffler. Already tried taking it to multiple shops and they have told me that I should get a muffler with staggered inlet and outlet so I'll have a better chance of it fitting. Thanks for any help
No I didn't have any clearance problems. My car isn't super low like the stance people so I don't know. A muffler shop can't cut the inlet on your muffler and make a custom piping bending differently to fit?
Michael Flare im actually only on lowering springs. the clearence problem is between the right lca and the inlet of the muffler. does your muffler have the inlet and outlet lined up or staggered? ive tried goong to multipel shops and they make it seem like its impossible to do anything other than get a new muffler.
Mine inlet and outlet i lined up. They're so dumb, they can easily cut the entire inlet off and do a new piping route.
Michael Flare I guess I'll just I'll keep looking for a better shop. Tired of just having the sway bar sitting around. I had one last question. Where do you get the torque specs?
initialdfcfd I search it up on the internet. Some of the bolts I didn't torque it to spec because I thought I didn't need to be too specific.
Hey michael I know this is unrelated to the video but im having the hardest time connecting my 99/00 ek9 power folding mirrors, I have the pigtails and I have the switch with the built in relay, can you tell me how you did yours? -justin
Should of painted sway bar, d brackets and installed fresh poly bushings.
Doesn't want extra weight, puts a tie bar with subframe brace...
lol. jk. Car is ready for track now. nice job.
is it a real RHD EK9 mirror? Is it going in a RHD or LHD car? Are you talking about wiring the power fold or power adjust? If your putting it in a LHD car, then power adjusting on these mirrors is absolutely useless; in fact, it's even worse to hook up the wires for it. Let me explain, these RHD mirrors are MADE for RHD seats so they point towards the right seat. Adjusting the mirrors with your hand lets you move it MORE than the power adjust because the power as a shorter limit...
I have a 98 spec 23 mm JDM ITR rear swaybar for my dc2. I have a big problem mounting to my BWR subframe and lca with beaks.... I'm using blox endlinks but I cannot find the mounting brackets with bushings please help me were can I get a set of mounting brackets and bushings for my setup.
eBay.
Hi, I'm planning to install the same CTR swaybar on my car and I was wondering for the reason why there's a need to preload the tires. Does this have to do with the bushings or the position of the endlinks. By the way, my lca are still OEM. Thanks!!
The purpose of preloading is all about the bushings. Different angles of the LCA will put different stress on the bushings. You want the bushing to be locked at the angle where the car will be sitting at the most which is in it's preloaded position (entire car's weight on the suspension). I could be wrong but I read this is necessary or your bushings will wear out really early. Why not just take the extra time (no more than 5 minutes) preloading the suspension while tightening the bolts? Better safe than sorry and it's definitely worth the extra time.
Michael Flare thanks for the info. This will be a lot of help on my install. And wow your response is fast😀
I've gone everywhere local auto parts and my tunner shop called tri state motorsports and no one can help me. the only thing that can possible work for me is energysuspension brackets and bushings but again I don't know if thier 22 mm will fit in my 23 mm rear swaybar. can you please help me and tell me where you purchased your rear swaybar brackets and bushings. or if anyone ells here on youtube can help me... thanks in advance!!!!
My rear sway bar bracket and bushing came with my EK9 sway bar. You should check eBay, they have everything. 23mm sway bars use the same bracket as 22mm sway bar I think; it's the bushing that is different for different size sway bars.
How do you know how much to spin the end links into the lower control arm,? Are the end links threaded?
jdmegfan Certain types of endlinks are threaded. Mine is the OEM style end links which are threaded and my lower control arms are threaded too. Some lower control arms are not threaded and require you to have a nut on the opposite side of the end link to secure it in place.
Noob question I know.. but what's that big chrome thing your attaching the strut bar too called?
What do you mean by strut bar? I never showed any strut bar in this video because my rear strut bar is inside the rear cabin of the car. The sway bar in the video is attached to the BWR rear lower control arms at the endlinks and the sway bar bushings in the middle with the D brackets are attached to the BWR rear lower subframe brace.
do you know where else I can get coilovers for my 87 Honda EF
How do you install the lower tie bar? I have a bwr subframe and the lower tie bar looks out and looks like the original bolt needs to be longer? Or?
I have a tutorial for that.
Did you install that 2 little backing plate for your subframe brace with the ctr sway bar on..I want to know if its necessary.? Also I running funtion 7 brace
Yes, you need to install the backing plates behind the rear lower subframe brace because the originally subframe on the car isn't completely a flat surface. The plates have grooves in them that will flatten the surface against the brace in order to have even pressure throughout the brace.
Ok thanks.. plus im a big fan of yours..do you have an instagram I would love to follow your work
I don't. LOL. Sorry.
...different wires and you have to run those 8 VERY LONG wires to the pigtail harness behind the switch which you will notice that it's not even worth it because you will NEVER use the power adjust in USA. You'll understand what I mean. I have the exact same 2000 EK9 built in relay harness switch too. I spend over 3 hours one night trying get the wiring right but failed. I'm so glad I wasn't able to because it would have been a waste. trust me, I've thought it through for hours...
What kind of bolts and nuts did you get? I will be doing this on my em1 99-00 Si and am going to use the stock sway bar and end links. I dont know what size bolts and strength wise what kind when attaching the sway bar to the bwr subframe brace. I need your help!!!
If your're using the stock sway bar, then you should already have bolts from it to use. Because you are adding a brace to the car's original subframe, it'll be thicker. You might get lucky and still have enough thread to bolt it back on the subframe brace. However, I did not have enought thread so I bought the exact time of nut and bolt dimensions exepter longer. I went to Ace Hardware because that place is famous for having a large variety of sizes especially import. Home Depot and Lowe's are geared towards Domestic sizes so I give up looking for bolts there unless its something unspecific. Since the EM1 uses a smaller sway bar size, you'll be using the two CLOSER vertical bolt holes out of the 3 for the sway bar on the brace. I have the Type R sway bar which is the larger size and I used the OUTER holes. I need a nut on the opposite size too to secure the bolt in place (opposed to stock mount which has the threads in the original subframe alraedy).
Michael Flare thank you so much man, that was incredibly helpful!!
Do em1s even need the rear sway bar? Saw one with just the subframe.
is that the same as you would do it on an Integra gsr ? I have a bwr subframe and had to take out the sway bar cuz it wouldn't fit , I now have a blox sway bar but the oem end links are not working 🤔 somebody help me out please
Christian Valverde Yes, same method. There's two types of endlinks. I think Blox uses spherical type endlinks, not OEM style.
Hello.
Question
What's the bolt size for the D brackets
Thanks
I'm so sorry but I don't know the bolt size. What I used to do when I didn't know bolt sizes was I would go to a hardware store (preferably Ace Hardware, not Home Depot because Home Depot is extremely limited in metric bolts) and get several different size bolts and nuts in pairs. I would try them when I get home and return all the bolts that don't fit.
what sway bar brackets do i need to mount a 99 si 13mm sway bar to my BWR subframe brace? the stock brackets dont fit
Stock brackets should fit the bar. The BWR brace has 6 holes to hold sway bar. 6 because it lets you hold smaller or larger bars. You want to choose the holes that fit your bracket.
Can I use same sway bar and same rear suspension setup on my 2000 Civic DX-V?
Yes.
What end links did you used?? Oem civic si? What size are they, what length?
I don't know the exact dimensions of it but it is the factory style replacement that I got from my local auto parts store. So it's the OEM specs on the endlinks. Yes, most likely the 1999-2000 Civic Si OEM end links.
Great! Thanks for the answer. And great videos btw. Cheers
Which end links brand did you get ? Also have Blackworks lca .
I just have the OEM style endlinks.
Hi Michael. I was wondering if you know where can I get the D bracket for my sway bar from a Acura integra gsr db8, because the stock ones are to small for my bwr frame.
+cabe zamudio Either eBay or Acura dealership. You need to say that your car is a 1997-2001 Acura Integra Type R.
+Michael Flare thank you so much. I have a question for you. Do you work in cars? I kinda need some help with mine gsr. Thank you for your help Michael
+cabe zamudio I'm not a professional, just a personal mechanic.
+Michael Flare oh is nothing pretty difficult, I would like you to check my car and tell me what should I do to it, I don't know a lot about Hondas. I just bought my gsr and my type R integra but the one I want to build is the gsr since I want the type R as stocks as I can because increase the value of it, but is if you can
+cabe zamudio and to be honest I would love to meet you. You don't know how much your videos help me
I want upgrade my car, wich kit is the better?
Any suggestions?
Kit for what? Subframe bracing? I think Function 7 subframe and LCA is the probably the best out quality but some might argue that it's quality is beyond necessary.
Michael Flare
yes rear subframe brace.
thanks man!
would this fit my 90 ef hatch
+Freddy Rodriguez The subframe brace and lower control arms that I have will not fit an EF. However, if you have aftermarket EF subframe brace and LCA, you might be able to use the same sway bar that I used but I'm not completely sure.
No. I'm not completely sure but I know that the EF has a very different chassis than EK to the point where they can't use most suspension parts together.
Michael Flare. I have a 98 spec ITR rear seat bar 23 mm I have everything to mount them on my BWR subframe and lca but I don't have the D-brakets with bushings. Please let me know where you purchased the D-brakets and bushings or do you know where I can purchase a set so I can finish my suspension setup..... my suspension is the same as yours. same bwr subframe and lca your swaybar is 22 mm but mine is 23 mm so I know you can help me thanks in advance
hey bro, what size rims can you use if you put the after market rear lower control arms? it's sitting kinda low right now with coil overs
you can throw a wheel and tire combo with or without aftermarket lca's. just make sure they stay in the right parameters.
your stock rear lca's will do. the only thing I say would be better then stock is *maybe* upgraded bushings like polys or spherical bearings in your stock lca's. added stiffness and suspension geometry as it should be.
do some research, don't take my word for it. hope that helped bud
+Kit Truong I'm sorry. I'm not really sure.
why didn't you grease yo he bushings....
Will a ctr/ itr rear 22mm swaybar fit my eg6 ? I have the same blackworks set up subframe/LCAs
Yes
would you recommend this sway bar for my set up?
+erik raya If you're going to race with the car at a track, then yes. If just drive the car casually, then you don't need any of these things.
Do you have to have the brace for that size sway?
David Rey Hernandez - Almost all subframe braves will come with 6 holes instead of the 4 from the OEM subframe. There are two groups of sway bar sizes. These aftermarket braces can hold both because you choose the holes according to the sway bar size. I think anything above 20mm uses the farther holes while anything under 20mm is closer holes. The sway bar bushings is what actually holds the bar properly so those have to be correct size.
Did you really support your car on the brake rotors? That is the most unsafe thing I seen someone do 😧
kamaka96791 Not the rotors; it was on the hubs. Yes, it's unsafe. That is why I put jackstands at the frame corners of the car so that if it does slip, it doesn't fall on the ground.
Probably did it to compress the suspension so when torquing bolts, the bushings are at a compressed position to prolong bushing life.
That is EXACTLY why I did it! LOL
With all the money this dude spent trying to make a type r he could have easily built a real race car out of that.
the exterior is 100% stock though. I didn't do anything. So you're telling me all the cars you see at the dealership are keeping it real too? LOL
Michael, will these fit on sedans?
No. It will not. The mounts on all the non Type R Civics are meant to hold the smaller sway bars. If you want the larger sway bar, you have to get an aftermarket subframe brace.
in your opinion what should i get?
If you're going to circuit race the car or want better handling around corners, then get a sway bar. The bigger ones are stiffer. If you don't, then no sway bar is fine.
how are your BWR lca bushings holding up
+Twenty 4 Seven SQUAD It's perfect at the races. Absolutely nothing wrong with them so far.
+Michael Flare I have some black works I was going to put on my integra but my skunk 2 pro c are to wide for the bushing I would have to use a spacer of some sort
Are you sure you got the correct LCA for your car? I don't understand how it would be the wrong size if you got the one labeled for your car. BlackWorks is good on fitment. Spacers would work but try to see if you have the correct LCA, though.
the music sounds like dj okawari
Because it is! LOL!
DJ Okawari - Evening Comes 2 plays at 4:52.
Michael Flare I guess you jam yo nujabes also?
you are spot on, dude! LOL.
Three songs from an album dedicated to him were used in my "How to install quick release wheel" video. LOL
Michael Flare lol and you bboy too! :p let's be friends? *not trying to sound like a stalker :p*
Too late. You already do. LOL Just kidding.
Now you just need some coilovers
I already have them.
Which ones?
KYB AGX struts with Skunk2 springs.
Oh... That not coilovers im taking about full bodied coilovers that are adjustable like skunk2 pro s2. Thats what i got btw
I'm so happy with the adjustable suspension (Skunk2 sleeves over KYB AGX struts) at the race track right now. I don't want to change it, irght now.
Did you lube the bushings?
I did some research and people said that some bushings require grease and some should not have them. Also, there are different types of grease compounds for different types of bushings so it's important to know which one to use too. I did not lube the stock bushings that came with the sway bar.
Cool thanks. You plan on a new project?
Yeah. I'm saving up my money for either an 86 or 240SX [fastback] for a drift car.
Nice! Hope you post video. I'm gonna start my project here soon
no
9:20 song?
+Ron Sinson Awolnation - Sail
Awolnation - Sail
why don't you just lose a couple pounds xD
Fake type R's thats the shit i dont like!
Still clean as hell
but at least he got real type r parts.
true. i just hate when people do type R clones
Mason Price I'm joining the military and you can bet your ass I am going to import a type R back home :)
Colten Wortman import from where?
like what business