A little thing, but, quick tip for replacing handlebar grips i learned ooooh many moons a go... Hairspray... Clean handlebars well getting rid of grease and such, fully dry, then spray Hairspray (yup the stuffs wimmins use lol) into the grips, slide on, position right, leave to dry, and bingo, well seated, secure grips! 😏👍 😎🇬🇧
For what it’s worth, wsy way back on the 80’s the cr125rc engines I played with, the reed blocks were aliimium with a rubber coating,. It (supposedly) sealed (it did ! ) it gave the reed petals a cushioned face to seal against. Seemed to give both the steel and the fibre reeds a decent life. We used reed stops and coated them. Think plastic-dip. Ok wasn’t a 30bhp 50cc motor but ithe reeds survived a 4 hour beach race with a 1 mile flat out straight..
Honda Reed valves are limited by a flap in their maximum opening. Without that a reed valve can break. Also HRC did not have any restriction of gas flow behind the reed valve.
I've 3d printed alot of things for my small engines and CF nylon fresh out of the box plus being kept dry has produced the best results. Thanks to you I did a design revision on my reed cage and added a bridge between one side to another to prevent the reed cage from collapsing in from the reeds smacking the cage.
This is really a momentous occasion; an engine that is running on an actual machine! I think this is 1 out of 200 videos; outstanding; i have been waiting to see one of your engines in motion.
2stokestuffing! When you use the filament dryer to dry. open the "door" about 1 cm. Some driers dont have a vent so moisture will just circle around inside and wont get out. 1cm is enough for the filament to actually dry. Only have it closed all the way when its not running to keep moisture out
I was going to say that you need to housing out of steel, but I found you are on the track. We made are reed house out of steel, and in 1966 the reeds were made out aircraft titanium .010 thick.
perhaps a tapered reed might help? with a single thickness reed the highest stress would be at the fulcrum. a tapered thickness reed would spread the bending stress beyond the fulcrum evenly ....if that makes sense
My biggest issue with EPACF has always been bed adhesion, I dry for 20 hours at 70 degrees C (highest my dehydrator can go) and have tried Magigoo, and Geetech JT17 on steel, PEI, Buildtack, and Glass, but never seem to get 100% adhesion, so EPACF reed blocks for me would be a non starter, I’d go straight to Polycarbonate.
I would think a reed valve would produce a lot of restriction, especially at higher rpm/flow rates. Is it really needed with a rotary valve? Maybe the super charging will over come the extra drag without any issues but everything counts when you start going fast.
Hi, i love your ingenuity and design process! Instead of reeds would it work with crankshaft venturi ?? This way the crankshaft can pressurise the only downside is the crankcase and liner will have to be heavily ported.
Just a thing that popped into my head: how hot will the reed locks get? What do you expect the temps to be? Cause if it comes out of a thermal 3d printer, it just can withstand less heat, than was needed for the print. Always funny for me, when ppl print bike and car parts, that melt in direct sunlight 😉
If you are having trouble with carbon fibre nylon, have a look at PET carbon. Doesn't warp, strong, high temp resistance, up to 180 deg C after annealing. PET not PETG. Prints beautifully. Need to run 0.6 nozzles though.
An idea for the reed petals. Wether steel or carbon/glass fiber you could make them from a thicker material then thin them where they need to bend. In that way they would still be able to open as much as needed but be substantial enough to withstand back pressure. Of course they would need to be custom made but it wouldn't be hard. If metal start with as thick a material as would be appropriate then grind away a little from the bend area. If fiber laminate a layer of the thin stuff onto a layer or thicker stuff or two layers of the thinner material like you have leaving only one layer where the petals need to bend.
His first attempt was taken away from him by mother nature. It got cancelled because of heavy rain, which is why he's basically trying to get back to his first attempt at the Bonneville hopefully dry this time around. If the contraption hasn't been used and he still think it's going to hold up there's no need fixing it. He should focus at the engine for the most part and just making it to the start line. I'm sure this video was posted more as a throwback to what has happened(mostly for new viewers).
A lot of 80's bikes have parts still available yamaha rd 125lc 250/350lc, yamaha banshee 350 etc all use the same reed block, same as the tz700/750 metal reeds and aluminium cage, Iit might be worth noting 82 and 83 yz models had a three petal design ,also I have thought for a long time why do the v force etc have no reed guide that curved piece of metal is to stop the reed flapping wildly on the intake wall or too wide and shattering, I beleive the best setting for them was 12mm to the end of the guide from the tip of the reed, I think your problem is two fold 'plastic' and no reed guide it may solve your problem
Can you add another port to your rotary valve to bring that exhaust pressure to the other side of the reed valve? I'm not sure if that will screw up the intake side but being supercharged and brute force, maybe not?
It would be interesting if you could put some kind of timed sliding valve on the input to make sure that the opening does not open too soon relative to the speed...
great work, have you tried motul 800 oil, on dyno with my 100cc on minarelli crankcase base i get 1hp more just by switching from A747 castrol to motul 800
Are you making sure to powder coat all your metal parts to protect against salt corrosion? Also, make sure no salt gets sucked into the motor or it will destroy it entirely.
what if the problem is not the reed itself but simply the fact that the intake ports opens too soon (or exhaust port too late) so simply too much pressure for the reed valve. if the exhaust valve does it's job it can close soon enough and hold the boost pressure a little longer
if the reeds dont hold up in testing, we wont need a cage or wheels !!! IS THE REED VALVE ISSUE FIXED, DEPENDABLE ??? it was a great video, keep going man.
A 'floating' [on a spring] pivoting chin brace coming up off the center of your steering assembly could allow you to lower your head with less strain, especially if you can look up high against your eyebrows to see where you care going, allowing you to lay more comfortably at a much lower drag profile. I could draw a sketch for you, if you are intrigued but don't get the idea from just these English words...
If you think the blowback is because of the compressed fuel/air, then its only one thing to do to solve it. Installing fuel injection into the inlet ports.
Instead of using Reed cages. Maybe try pop up valve. That will only open when pressure is less on back of valve. It's a very old design. But it might not won't work on the rpm's your running.
Any partial streamlining puts you in a different class, requiring another entry fee. If you break a record, there is a post race inspection to make sure that you are eligible for your registered class.
I know I enjoy 50cc 2 stroke stuffing... How about 0.25 mm thick titanium alloy for reeds...impervious to gasoline nitro or methanol...? I am sure some travel limit can be installed.....to limit either material... Sure, then a new toy..or simulator could be ran 24x7...to see their fatigue strength ...then change out....just prior to the record.. I hope you and family get to Spain...or Gmbh...for holiday...someplace where your currency is strong...maybe now with the Euro...it doesn't help? I loved my trips to Europe... I almost got to Phillips...back in the day...but your engineers were wise enough and didn't need my help or hindrance.. Alex...my neighbors complained about my piles...so I took a car and truck to get service...in an effort to make yard pretty... Boom money bomb shells went off. I will still help you...because I have honor said I would and love speed.. I will help a tiny... Either patrione...or when you get to states and your support..tell me your buddy phone Anyway I am sure I can find a method...plus you already shown instructions ... Boom Zelle.. $200 ... I intend to watch in person.... My 69 IHC Travelall is almost ready for a Bonneville run herself...but not quite ready.....more time is needed... I have too many other money sponge projects... Aero dynamic the IHC is not. A farm implement it may be, but is quite road worthy... Come on lottery... I always wanted to follow foot steps of my father....born 1910. In early 30's he and his buddy Glen Jackson...did their best on grandma's old 1925 Ford model T... They drove it from El Monte CA to Utah... Race prep prior -an oil pump installed, cut off top and milled head. Some better exhaust. Two carbs. No speed records were broken.. Pops topped out at 106 mph in a Model T... It is in my blood.. May you Alex- break all the rules we bend...
Someone offered you flower pedal style reeds and cage’s,so why don’t you have them send you over a couple styles in pares for your engine? It’s a no brainer!! If it works then you have a style to R&D with in your arsenal .
If you're having issues with read valves and rotary valves. Why can't you put a conventional 4stroke head on your engine with custom cams to run "2stroke".
I hope you're not rushing into it. Why not build and proove that the engine concept really works before sending it accross the world? Personally I would not go there with just one setup. Hoping for the best still.
There are different PC based materials that could be more suitable, they dont creep as nylon do. Give swedish AddNorth a call, they might help with some sponsored rolls.
You need to start anodizing your raw billet aluminum pieces so harmful fuel’s don’t corrode your internal precious part’s. It would last a lot longer. Try cryogenically treating the crankshaft and connecting rod also for hi revving ,flexing and or breakage.
He is no where close to university level. This is just a guy with a hobby and a dream. Alex is very smart, but he isn't an engineer. He makes far to many mistakes to be a trained engineer.
A little thing, but, quick tip for replacing handlebar grips i learned ooooh many moons a go... Hairspray... Clean handlebars well getting rid of grease and such, fully dry, then spray Hairspray (yup the stuffs wimmins use lol) into the grips, slide on, position right, leave to dry, and bingo, well seated, secure grips! 😏👍
😎🇬🇧
30hp 50cc engine... What a beast
This is exactly the moment than i have discovered your channel. And a bit more latter i have send you the titanium screws.
For what it’s worth, wsy way back on the 80’s the cr125rc engines I played with, the reed blocks were aliimium with a rubber coating,. It (supposedly) sealed (it did ! ) it gave the reed petals a cushioned face to seal against. Seemed to give both the steel and the fibre reeds a decent life. We used reed stops and coated them. Think plastic-dip.
Ok wasn’t a 30bhp 50cc motor but ithe reeds survived a 4 hour beach race with a 1 mile flat out straight..
@webtoedman yes, one of the very early ones.
Honda Reed valves are limited by a flap in their maximum opening. Without that a reed valve can break. Also HRC did not have any restriction of gas flow behind the reed valve.
@@martinduddridge329 I remember spectating at the early ones.
Was riding Clubman Enduro's in the 80's
This is one of my all-time favourite bike builds. Hope you get to run it on the salt this time.
I hope you enjoyed Pike's Peak, that part of Colorado has some serious beauty!
I've 3d printed alot of things for my small engines and CF nylon fresh out of the box plus being kept dry has produced the best results. Thanks to you I did a design revision on my reed cage and added a bridge between one side to another to prevent the reed cage from collapsing in from the reeds smacking the cage.
This is really a momentous occasion; an engine that is running on an actual machine! I think this is 1 out of 200 videos; outstanding; i have been waiting to see one of your engines in motion.
A lot of people can “build” a bike… this man made a bike 🤯
Anyone can build a bike.Anyone can build anything, but the secret is.Can it run and be reliable?
And break a record on top of it all
Doesn't have to be reliable for record.
Ahhh the sweet sound of a very fast 50cc 2 stroke sounds like music to my ears ❤
Glad to see a chain guard right away on new bike
Bending that metal sure made your beard grow fast
Alex I admire your dedication. Weather is a wildcard at B'ville. August is going to be here very soon. Best to you. J.
is august the best time?
Hey Alex, one thing to keep in mind, the salt will destroy everything, it may be worth it
To enclose all the electrical parts.
for the handful of runs its going to do, it will be fine... no point adding more weight than needed.
@@jesseasher7520 i disagree. Having a reliable vehicle is better for testing. He can optimize for weight later.
That sound when it pulls away... Good job you are a good mechanic
Looking forward to this year with your runs!
2stokestuffing! When you use the filament dryer to dry. open the "door" about 1 cm. Some driers dont have a vent so moisture will just circle around inside and wont get out. 1cm is enough for the filament to actually dry. Only have it closed all the way when its not running to keep moisture out
Bonjour, je suis bluffé par le travail accompli pour la réalisation du cadre. Bravo et bon courage pour les essais routiers.
Making reeds out of old credit cards seems appropriate ;-)
Boyesen rad valve is aluminum. They make a cr85 version
This is the way
I was going to say that you need to housing out of steel, but I found you are on the track. We made are reed house out of steel, and in 1966 the reeds were made out aircraft titanium .010 thick.
Am I the only one thinking of Burt Monroe…..😊
Would be interesting to see your new reed box put on an 80cc stock engine with that kind of boost. The unit would be quite the powerhouse!
Fantastic footage!!! Im glad i have seen the making of the Bonneville speed bike... Cant wait to see it in action 🤘💯
Nice to see you at the top of Pikes Peak. I'm just downhill from there. I hope to see you celebrating the fruits of your efforts in August.
Have a very good vacation. Love the Channel. One of the highlights of my week. Have a good one!!
perhaps a tapered reed might help? with a single thickness reed the highest stress would be at the fulcrum. a tapered thickness reed would spread the bending stress beyond the fulcrum evenly ....if that makes sense
Our race team uses AIM DA systems. What things do you want to observe?
Ideally I would like to display/log speed, rpm, cht, and egt during a run. Have contacted AIM, Unipro, and Alfano.
@2STROKESTUFFING AIM Micron 5S2T would probably work for you if GPS vehicle speed is what u are looking for. Without taxing your 12v power supply.
Are the reed valves breaking because there is so much more combustion pressure compared to a normal 2 stroke? If so, then its really impressive
They really need to sort the flooding out on the plains 😂😂
My biggest issue with EPACF has always been bed adhesion, I dry for 20 hours at 70 degrees C (highest my dehydrator can go) and have tried Magigoo, and Geetech JT17 on steel, PEI, Buildtack, and Glass, but never seem to get 100% adhesion, so EPACF reed blocks for me would be a non starter, I’d go straight to Polycarbonate.
Hope you get a record at Bonneville this year!
Enjoy your holiday brother.
Maybe you can put a "safety mesh" that will catch broken parts before they enter the cylinder. just a thought.
The '85 250R atc had metal reed peddles...never had issues
Lets talk why the pressure is so high on the reeds. And what way are they breaking. From the crank case or the super charger pressure?
I would think a reed valve would produce a lot of restriction, especially at higher rpm/flow rates. Is it really needed with a rotary valve? Maybe the super charging will over come the extra drag without any issues but everything counts when you start going fast.
Hi, i love your ingenuity and design process!
Instead of reeds would it work with crankshaft venturi ?? This way the crankshaft can pressurise the only downside is the crankcase and liner will have to be heavily ported.
Just a thing that popped into my head: how hot will the reed locks get? What do you expect the temps to be? Cause if it comes out of a thermal 3d printer, it just can withstand less heat, than was needed for the print. Always funny for me, when ppl print bike and car parts, that melt in direct sunlight 😉
If you are having trouble with carbon fibre nylon, have a look at PET carbon. Doesn't warp, strong, high temp resistance, up to 180 deg C after annealing.
PET not PETG.
Prints beautifully. Need to run 0.6 nozzles though.
Now that was a blast from the past 😎
An idea for the reed petals. Wether steel or carbon/glass fiber you could make them from a thicker material then thin them where they need to bend. In that way they would still be able to open as much as needed but be substantial enough to withstand back pressure. Of course they would need to be custom made but it wouldn't be hard. If metal start with as thick a material as would be appropriate then grind away a little from the bend area. If fiber laminate a layer of the thin stuff onto a layer or thicker stuff or two layers of the thinner material like you have leaving only one layer where the petals need to bend.
I swear I already seen this before...am i hallucinating? Same frame to be used this upcoming speed run?
Same bunch of Bologna. Same bunch of Bologna station. Same bunch of blonde time. We're going in circles
His first attempt was taken away from him by mother nature. It got cancelled because of heavy rain, which is why he's basically trying to get back to his first attempt at the Bonneville hopefully dry this time around. If the contraption hasn't been used and he still think it's going to hold up there's no need fixing it. He should focus at the engine for the most part and just making it to the start line.
I'm sure this video was posted more as a throwback to what has happened(mostly for new viewers).
A lot of 80's bikes have parts still available yamaha rd 125lc 250/350lc, yamaha banshee 350 etc all use the same reed block, same as the tz700/750 metal reeds and aluminium cage, Iit might be worth noting 82 and 83 yz models had a three petal design ,also I have thought for a long time why do the v force etc have no reed guide that curved piece of metal is to stop the reed flapping wildly on the intake wall or too wide and shattering, I beleive the best setting for them was 12mm to the end of the guide from the tip of the reed, I think your problem is two fold 'plastic' and no reed guide it may solve your problem
Can you add another port to your rotary valve to bring that exhaust pressure to the other side of the reed valve?
I'm not sure if that will screw up the intake side but being supercharged and brute force, maybe not?
Is there nothing to catch broken reeds if they get broken? Something like a catch basket made of stainless steel mesh?
It would be interesting if you could put some kind of timed sliding valve on the input to make sure that the opening does not open too soon relative to the speed...
great work, have you tried motul 800 oil, on dyno with my 100cc on minarelli crankcase base i get 1hp more just by switching from A747 castrol to motul 800
Get your stuff 3D printed (Aluminium), really cost efficient. Already order some intakes and i‘m very happy
Are you making sure to powder coat all your metal parts to protect against salt corrosion?
Also, make sure no salt gets sucked into the motor or it will destroy it entirely.
Snag some anamorphic lenses for gopros and try them out in June and August?
you can use rubbing alcohol on the grips to put them on more easily
You are doing a very good job, really impress The bike came out pretty good. Keep the good work.
The flange spring idea is a good idea.
what if the problem is not the reed itself but simply the fact that the intake ports opens too soon (or exhaust port too late) so simply too much pressure for the reed valve. if the exhaust valve does it's job it can close soon enough and hold the boost pressure a little longer
if the reeds dont hold up in testing, we wont need a cage or wheels !!! IS THE REED VALVE ISSUE FIXED, DEPENDABLE ??? it was a great video, keep going man.
If you are getting combustion blowback, it could possibly be a good application for a tesla valve.
A 'floating' [on a spring] pivoting chin brace coming up off the center of your steering assembly could allow you to lower your head with less strain, especially if you can look up high against your eyebrows to see where you care going, allowing you to lay more comfortably at a much lower drag profile.
I could draw a sketch for you, if you are intrigued but don't get the idea from just these English words...
Sounds like it's gonna be a ripper!
Perhaps the reed bridges need to be at 90 deg to the reed fibres?
The ecta is running soon, might check the possibility.
Just a thought, try and give bouseen rad valve and carbon reeds a shot ? Since the housing is much more sturdy
What motor is going to Bonneville ?
I love watch yours timelaps!!!
The whole factor that was managed to make a blower work with that type of engine design
If you think the blowback is because of the compressed fuel/air, then its only one thing to do to solve it. Installing fuel injection into the inlet ports.
Fronttire in wrong (Rotation -)Direction?
What if the transfers had a sleeve valve to seal the cylinder? 😺
Always reach out to boysen to see what they have off the shelf
I enjoy the build videos like this.
33:36 We still got some Viking genes! Give me a helmet, or i will go without 😁💥🤕👌😄
I always put a bottle of ether under the seat for that extra umph at WOT ✊😂
Geeze man how much this thing weigh?
I would suggest rotary valves to replace the Reed system.
Instead of using Reed cages. Maybe try pop up valve. That will only open when pressure is less on back of valve. It's a very old design. But it might not won't work on the rpm's your running.
U must speak to Tony Doukas that specializes in forced induction Reed valves. He will sort out your Reed problems.
Maybe need a frame mounted dustbin fairing to trial on alternative runs
Any partial streamlining puts you in a different class, requiring another entry fee. If you break a record, there is a post race inspection to make sure that you are eligible for your registered class.
I know I enjoy 50cc 2 stroke stuffing...
How about 0.25 mm thick titanium alloy for reeds...impervious to gasoline nitro or methanol...?
I am sure some travel limit can be installed.....to limit either material...
Sure, then a new toy..or simulator could be ran 24x7...to see their fatigue strength ...then change out....just prior to the record..
I hope you and family get to Spain...or Gmbh...for holiday...someplace where your currency is strong...maybe now with the Euro...it doesn't help?
I loved my trips to Europe...
I almost got to Phillips...back in the day...but your engineers were wise enough and didn't need my help or hindrance..
Alex...my neighbors complained about my piles...so I took a car and truck to get service...in an effort to make yard pretty...
Boom money bomb shells went off.
I will still help you...because I have honor said I would and love speed..
I will help a tiny...
Either patrione...or when you get to states and your support..tell me your buddy phone
Anyway I am sure I can find a method...plus you already shown instructions ...
Boom Zelle..
$200 ...
I intend to watch in person....
My 69 IHC Travelall is almost ready for a Bonneville run herself...but not quite ready.....more time is needed...
I have too many other money sponge projects...
Aero dynamic the IHC is not. A farm implement it may be, but is quite road worthy...
Come on lottery...
I always wanted to follow foot steps of my father....born 1910. In early 30's he and his buddy Glen Jackson...did their best on grandma's old 1925 Ford model T...
They drove it from El Monte CA to Utah...
Race prep prior -an oil pump installed, cut off top and milled head. Some better exhaust. Two carbs. No speed records were broken..
Pops topped out at 106 mph in a Model T...
It is in my blood..
May you Alex- break all the rules we bend...
What's up with the name of the vehicle?
You could have cages 3d printed in metal for an affordable price.
Could mill them in his mill aswell.
Who 3D prints metal cheap?!
@@mynameisschezuan PCBWay, JLC3DP etc..
@@dutchsailor6620 thank you
craftcloud3d is a good site for metal 3d printing and machining stuff
Someone offered you flower pedal style reeds and cage’s,so why don’t you have them send you over a couple styles in pares for your engine? It’s a no brainer!! If it works then you have a style to R&D with in your arsenal .
It's become apparent that if the idea hasn't originated with Alex, he doesn't want anything to do with it.
Wet freaking Summer this year . (In S.W.USA.😊)
If you're having issues with read valves and rotary valves. Why can't you put a conventional 4stroke head on your engine with custom cams to run "2stroke".
I hope you're not rushing into it. Why not build and proove that the engine concept really works before sending it accross the world? Personally I would not go there with just one setup. Hoping for the best still.
would it be worth moving the reeds from the cylinder and to the crank case, so there not directly facing the wave sites?
Yes❤
now I want to see someone ride it at least 1,000 miles in the US.
There are different PC based materials that could be more suitable, they dont creep as nylon do. Give swedish AddNorth a call, they might help with some sponsored rolls.
Köp boysen reeds. Dom har aluminium korg och kolfiber blad.
Many blue tools there (biltema) 😅
Could they change to Black Rock? I guess that would be a giant SNAFU.
That seems so long ago..oh yeah it was..😁👍🗽🇺🇸
Magnificent
Idea: bond some form of metal piece into the top of the reeds where the flex is causing cracks... ~( 'w')/
Getting that cable red hot 😮 is not a good idea 😢
Oops, heating that brake cable red hot lost all of it's cold-worked strength, please re-do before riding.
You need to start anodizing your raw billet aluminum pieces so harmful fuel’s don’t corrode your internal precious part’s. It would last a lot longer. Try cryogenically treating the crankshaft and connecting rod also for hi revving ,flexing and or breakage.
A lot of people are moving over to the Osmo Action 4 camera which I have its worth a look Not buying GoPro again
Your work is university level maybe even more. Kids in universities are just learned to walk so how they can innovate something new.
He is no where close to university level. This is just a guy with a hobby and a dream. Alex is very smart, but he isn't an engineer. He makes far to many mistakes to be a trained engineer.
Replace that pipe to remove exhaust pipe extracter bro, the end of it is damaged.