50cc Two Stroke, 35mm Carb, Nitro - Give me the record!
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- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
- Reuploaded cause half was missing.
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Real og's remember the sudden cutoff.
Lol, I thought that was deliberate (Rob Dahm ;-)
I thought that I erased it. I was downloading while watching.
😮
No one cares
@@carbonharmonics Bug crawl up your bum or what?
Haha i was like the hell ? ending like this last night.
I've been building two strokes since 1991 for a living. A quick tip for truing a crank is just hit the wheel on the low side that you're indicating. Also place the indicator as far out as possible ( way out by the threads ).
Lastly I ship engines all over the world packed in coolers . The double wall construction with foam in-between really protects them from damage .
Hi pete i am from india
We would like to wish you all the best in your Bonneville attempt. Just by getting there you will do what most only talk about. Two words of advice :
1 - Start richer then you ever thought, you have all week to take fuel out of her.
2 - Back your own ideas/thoughts, do not listen to self proclaiming gurus, there will be many.
Enjoy one of the coolest places in the world. Best wishes JP Afflick & Team AAA Racing.
Rarher go rich and slowly creep up to optimal than go lean and create a vented piston...
Solid advice.
You are the reason my Puch Monza is now on 12hp on the rear wheel 😊
I been building a 1976 nostalgia maxi and I'm running an arisal 70cc kit with a roller bearing crank, tuned pipe and stock ignition, with an 18 mm polini carb, stock clutch, and is making half that number I think , it's reliable street ridden daily but it needs more. What would you recommend to gain more power? If like something like yours, do you street ride ur puch? Or is it a race bike.
@@mariamaniscalco7413 smaller carb will probably make more power. 15 or 16mm is enough for a airsal 70.
get the polini cylinder-kit for the maxi. 19mm carb. proma circuit exhaust (sounds like an mx bike). i had this setup about 20 years ago on my maxi and it was incredible. also a lot of midrange torque.
Downhill dyno....
That thing must be fun to ride!
watching that chain whip around with you leaning over it, no cover gives me the creeps.
I was thinking the same thing when I saw that.
They say the most dangerous work shops are not on the job but in your back yard --- appears to be no safety rules there.
Was looking for this comment. I thought there was a cover in the past?
Babe wake up 2strokestuffing uploaded.
If you put backinggas in the pipe the quality of the weld will be alot better and welding wil get easier becaus it has a little extra Cooling effect
It’s actually not the cooling effect that matters. It’s the prevention of oxidation caused by the inert gas.
There we go! I wondered what happened to the original upload.
Edit: You leaning over that chain while revving that engine had me anxious af. 😅
got me with the chain spooky too
New crank, that one will never stay in place if it moves that easy.
Too at much risk.
Seems like it.
The holes in the wings are probably worn out and not proper for the pin anymore.. assuming that crank has seen a rebuild and lots of running
You are my man! You brought to my mind what was my dream as a child. Was a Scooter Tuner but due to the lack of money and the divorce i startet a career as a hyperactive aggressive child, turned into a drugfilled DJ with lots of Talents but no consistency. 10 years ago i found my now wife, and 2 years ago we finally said OK we want a Family and therefore i need a apprentceship for a Job that i will Love (im from Germany). I saw your Videos and i instantly knew it... Now im becoming an Industrial mechanic and about to build my own lathe in my nice little Workshop that i build over the Last few years. BEST DECISION EVER! And in a few years you will get a competitor :)
When I first met Alex 5 years ago, he told me that his main goal for his channel was to inspire others to follow their dreams. Congratulations to both you and Alex!
I know the story well mate , if you can build the tools you can make anything possible and not ! Well done ❤
aha, sehr einfallsreicher Name! nein Spaß, mir ging es ähnlich
FYI, for the Tillotson pumper carb they make remote jet adjuster cables so you can adjust the jetting from a more convenient location like maybe up on the handlebars. Possibly especially helpful on the super long pulls, could richen the high jet later in the run.
I'm not keen on how easily that crank gets knocked about we shall see 👍
With how easily that crank changed alignment, I don't see how it would not deform after shipping back to the USA, let alone when its been running a full throttle at Bonnivlle.
couldn't he drill & tap a small cap screw into the side of the pin & web to lock it?
Weld it up 😊
@@garyalexander2480 that would make it a little hard to change the crank bearings.
@@calthorp a few percent harder
I used to teach this, hit it once then check, if you didn't hit it hard enough, easy to smack a bit harder.
If it's really 'loose' either TIG the crank-pin or replace crank.
Using a power impact gun is also enough to twist crank, they are always over 250 ft/lbs and usually 400ft/lbs (or more)
Even when 'dialed down' to 50~80 ft/lbs, the shock load is momentarily higher by a significant amount.
I know your not using one but Mikuni listed flow tests in the late 1960's.
A VM32 WILL support up to 50 bhp (and they were only on two strokes for a long time)
It's probably right on the limit of flow though?
Years ago I used to run 2t open carts on dirt ovals.i ran an Italian motor made by dap,165cc's,with a tilotson pumper carb on nitro methanol with great success!! It was also rotary valve.i would get about 3 races out of the rotor valve itself, and it would start to stress crack.
I'm not convinced by how easily that crank moves around, a little vibration and it's going to be off before you can blink again.
Nature of a crank this small to some extent sadly. When it's reshipped it needs crating and heavily protecting
Your should put a velocity stack on your carb. It will straighten out the air flow and it will make your mixture more consistent. Additionally if you could add mass to the carb it would probably foam less. That is just a theory.
I haven't seen the end of the story yet so I could be assessing a non-problem, however We fought a situation on the build of my 1965 AC Cobra MKIII (Ford's 427 aluminum racing engine) and the Magnafuel fuel pump. All of these things were generating significant heat transfer to the fuel, so much so that we could only use 10 gallons of a 20 gallon fuel supply before the gas overheated and vapor-locked the system. A company called Derale fabricated a triple pass (with two 6" fans) fuel chiller for us. I have now intentionally run the fuel tank down to .7 of a gallon with no adverse effect. My point is, I'm presuming there's a lot of heat in your system and this may be worth checking out as a fuel bubbling issue.
We would always weld the crank on banshee engines after we trued them
Should have time to weld it👍
Correct. 2 tacks either side with 309 stainless. Alex has nothing to loose by welding that loose crank pin but every thing to gain! Reliability has to be paramount!
The welds crack.
That's what happens to the Honda odyssey hi perf engines.
@@canadianoddy8504 Better to give the weld a shot since it moves around from vibration as is.
Weld with 7018 electrode
When is this run going to take place? I'm getting old and hope it will be during my lifetime.
Hope you live to about 5 August, Dude.
@@jimdale9187 2024?
Love how you dialed the crank in so tight and then I think of my Harley and that the factory if it measured within .007in they would be like... good enough put her in! Lol, may have taken you some time, but in your bike .007in would be catastrophic. Love to see the patience and care you put into your project! Can't wait to see the end result!
I think these things rev a bit higher .
When you make 20k of them you have to have wider tolerances
I swear you are the mad scientist of tuning 2 strokes, I'm for sure gonna try one when I get the chance.
This is the most artistic thumbnail I've seen
boy got a lot of trust in that chain
i dont my tendies to be that close to chopping and smashing
I was wondering why last video ended so abruptly.
What you achieve with the tools you have is amazing!
Problem with tuning-up is that it is really hard to find sweet spot.
Best method I found was tuning-down, turning fuel screw to almost zero,
& turn air screw to bare minimum, to have it barely-idle/shutting-off.
(This is tuning spot for air/idle screw)
(Wait a few moments for carb to settle)
Now turn fuel screw open to the point where- it is barely idling but not shutting off.
(Let it settle for a few minutes)
And now find sweet spot of fuel screw, between lean and rich.
(Point where engine is between on-load vs stress free, it will give perfect vaccum, ratio, and timing alignment)
After setting fuel screw, you can adjust air/idle up or down.
I've never seen a crank that's variable pitch lol The pipe turned out really good though.
That crank moves WAY TOO easily.
Love all you work it’s so out of this world.
Its really incredible what you are able to get out of those little engines. I used to help my cousin and his daughter she raced dirt shifter carts and the rules was strict but with alot of thinking and alot of trail and error those things was scary fast. Everyone would look at the price of stuff and say well thats not to costly to get into and id always laugh no not really unless you want to win then be ready to dump a ton of money and time into it. She now races legend's dirt cars and those are a whole nother animal lol. Looking foreword to seeing you get the record all that work will pay off just gotta keep digging at it and wanting it.
Your welding looks like it should be for a home shop. Over time it’ll look better, but it’s already functional and will work fine
I truly did not mind watching this two times. Absolutely excellent video!
Why does this looks like I'm watching a modern version of The Pinch Cliffe Grand Prix?
Godt jobba, og lykke til !
Its been a hell of a ride, love all the hwideos.
Such a cliffhanger! I was halfway through watching when it cut off and the video disappeared from your channel, Ah the good old days. I'm going to watch it all again cause it's cool
Favorite channel, thanks 👍
back in the day we would hammer and dollie work the pipe welds. used a small trailer hitch ball as the dollie for the inside welds.
Dang, that's gonna be one HELLVHA chainsaw when you're done!!
Hey up Alex nice to see your enthusiasm, good luck mate
The chain not being guarded is a bit of a worry 😮
a little tig weld, like in TPR crankshafts can prevent the crank from moving and it's still somehow reversible!
I will never stop asking to hear that thing with a proper silencer, maybe a Yasuni one which sounds great, not only better sound but with less noise from the exhaust side you can hear better other problems
Have you considered fabricating exhaust templates to use with the Hydraforce water pumping system?
Super awesome, you got this!
NICE!!! It is so angry sounding!!! I Dig it!!!
I wouldn't trust that crank!
I live in Seattle area but planning a trip down to see Moped Dick during speedweek! Been following this channel for years..be great to see a record breaking run!
great work fill the pipe up with argon gas while ya weld it , you will get gas coverage inside the pipe / use slip joint with two springs to hold it in then will not bust or come loose just like go kart racers fix there pipes love your work !
hey thanks. Was wondering about that. yesterdays first upload left me a bit confused.
Hi my friend! Sometimes you find the way… sometimes you struggle with the obvious.
goodluck 🖤
Also another top tips for getting high end power..
longer Velocity stack infront of the carb..
Especially the dual-stack design...that would getting into pipe-powerband and then really pushing air at high speed for high rev range
Some of the best industrial noises in the tube 😅
Use a bolt with wing nut on the brake lever to control it. should be more precise then by finger
Damn, I thought you were doing a Rob Dahm bit :P
So happy to see the full vid this morning :)
G'day from Australia!
Probably good to print some 3D inserts for packaging to cover any important sealing surfaces and around the crank etc.
USPS is THE WORST. I had parts shipped DHL to the US from germany. Updates say "released from customs to USPS". Magically dissapeared. USPS says i need to contact DHL. All the morons at USPS do t even know where or how thier international tranfer even works. I did my reaserach and after days of bs i was explaining to them how the flow progresses. Emd of the day a 6x12 box that weighs like 10#+ vanished without a trace and i havd to wait weeks for another shipment , which were vital item for my lift in my shop. So irritating.
Thank you!
use .025 mig wire as filler for this thin tig welding work, close any gaps with hammering, open overlaps by hammering over the edge of the end of the mandrel
The fuel may be hitting the back of the elbow and falling out of suspension when running the speedway carb. That ends up filling the engine with a lot of raw fuel., mount the speedway carb like the float bowl carbs and add an elbow on the inlet side of the carb. My two cents. Good luck!
Thanks!
I'm surprised you didn't go with the tilly or mikuni carb you used at the end sooner to prevent foaming. I put a big double pumper tilly on my racing chainsaw, and man, what a difference. Anyways, keep up the great content.
A ground, concentric cylinder, with a gap for the con rod would be the best possible way to ensure crank alignment.
Give the conrod-crank pin 2tacks of tig weld after truing them...
This saves alot of time chasing the wobbly crank with slight mistake (drop/overload/got hit etc etc)
And since its just small tack-weld, can be easily grind-off with its time to replace the conrod
I also have concerns about your crank turning out of alignment. Especially with your circular saw starter. Lots of torque input when it’s stationary. Shame you can’t ramp up the speed gradually. Keep the faith and you’ll achieve your goal. Your dedication to your project is inspiring.
On the TIG welding, you were using a really thick filler rod. Try a lighter gage filler rod.
I was taught that the filler rod shouldn't be any thicker than the gap you are filling.
Get EFI. Carbs aren't as tunable, and you should know it. It'd also allow separate oil and fuel injection. 2-stroke snowmobile tuners use EFI and make turbos and other boost work thanks to that.
I saw some interesting reed valves used in pulse jets that might be interesting to check out.
The float bowl vent must point forward in the carb bell to work with the carb pointing forward.
And, lots of salt will enter.
😮
It's amazing how much you can move the crank balance around with a few taps. Makes me wonder what happens dynamically when it's running and seeing high forces or when certain brutes on RUclips that are trying to make a viral video throw the parts around their bench while filming. It seems too fragile.
Arm Slicer 9000 Dyno today
WIth you're hammer action You must have been woodpecker in a previous life😅
Wow that fuel went fast in the small amount of time it ran!
My step-brother was the fastest man alive on go karts in the 60s up till about 70 when he had a bad wreck but he ran Mac10s two of them and they were putting out some horsepower
In my experience, trying one change and a thorough test via on machine road test, has proved to be the best to zero in on performance.
Get an hydraulic pump and use for a brake. Should be ok on a low power engine.
Hi. If you are makeing a lot of those pipes, I think you should have a MIG. It is a way more easy, and faster to weld this kind of metal sheets. And I mean a lot faster and a lot easyer.
Why are you not welding the crank?
Good luck in Colorado 🎉
Äntligen! 😁
great joib. I love learnin from your videos!!
I’m not sure what sort of rpm you want but maybe some resonance being creates with the magneto turning so fast. Might be good to go efi. Be great for the salt flats you have a maf and a lot more control over the whole engine running. I’ve made a 555 timer for a coil and got some really nice sparks at a frequency the coil loved. Hope this helps too.
I don’t really know but a variable spark gap might fix coil resonance the plug will just be sparking all the time so not when you need.
Fine tuning the jetting with a carburetor is best done with the seat of the pants
Keep waiting for the chain to let go 😅 whilst you casually hold your neck out waiting to test your mortality
I paused the video to write the above then next cut to you speaking about it 😂
Perhaps purging the inside of the pipe while welding will improve your weld quality?
On Harleys they weld the crank to the pin so it stays true and dosent bend or twist
If you can bend a crank too much from just banging it a few times I wonder what it will do when its spinning at nearly 20k RPM. edit: ah missed the part where it was press fit so its probably not bending anything. Hopefully that can be tightened up though.
You can also water pressure form your pipes
At 34:27, your comment about "no doubt getting it running good on gas"... If you take a bog standard production bike and decide to run methanol and or nitromethane, what would you do to make that work?. Maybe apply that logic to making this one work the same way. I remember way back in the early 70's, I have a "250 2 stroke", and I used to put one litre per tank of nitromethane... NO other mods to anything...used to go like a rocket, but a lot hotter.... a backyard designed ram air scoop for the head worked wonders for the heating issue... only while moving at speed tho. Love your videos, a real learning journey for me. Thank You!
Oh, God. Nausea cam is back. If you're going to insist on focus shift can you at least make sure something is in focus brother.
Long story short, rendering failed, raw footage, couldn't use sharpening/denoise.
Could the crank have got twisted when the engine seized in Colorado? Seems like the crank pin doesn't have a tight enough press fit.
Not the same crank, but yes. They're small and fragile.
Fuel failing to vaporise might be from having too large a carburettor. Higher intake velocity with a smaller diameter carb may help.
Drill hole in crank case add treaded valve to drain flooded engine good video
Try making an airbox for the intake since you have a pipe that works.
sounds to me the crank is done cause it should be holding shape in dimension regardless of how u hit it
With how easy this crank is moving around I’m sure it is going to untrue itself at 15000rpm. But hopefully it will last a run or two 😁
Bonneville let's go!!!!!!!
That chain really is an arm taker offer...
That crank moves much too easily, I would be reluctant to use it.
Some progress. Keep going.
Just some thoughts, don’t know if valid or helpful info. You are super knowledgeable and I’m learning so much from you. I love your content.
1. Could the Mach number on your intake be an issue? Intake speed cannot be more than half Mach number. We had issues with Toyota 22R at high RPM small port. Causes no acceleration after specific RPM. And how will this play into density altitude that we see at Bonneville?
2. Would doubling the intake length help with Helms hold frequency and allow for rubber coupler to minimize carburetor vibration?
3. Does your nitro methanol fuel have the same specific gravity as your gasoline mix and would that affect the float level and mess with carb tuning when switching between the two?
Density altitude messed with us for years out there. Wish you the best!