@@iceyaj3167 such a great story and painstaking work so as long as you were patient and you used hard material as you did for a fill then I’m sure it will have been a top quality repair
I don't think it matters... He bailed on it each time somewhere right around 6500... if it wasn't floating at 9k+, then stronger springs aren't going to do anything for the situation. I doubt that thing can maintain torque all the way to 10k even with ideal valve operation anyway 🤣
@@Jacobtheunwise Yeah no its the other way around. Ive got friends in Bulgaria who know people with dynos. Garage 54 just isnt a performance shop, so a dyno would be an expense they couldnt make back without completely changing their service. Take it from a shop owner and russian connesiour myself, there probably either isnt enough market for performance services in their oblast or they just aren't interested in changing their services. Also decent dynos can cost upwards of $20-40k so yeah theyre not gonna buy that just for YT videos.
Definitely revisit this in the summer. Make another flywheel made of lead and a cam with an even more aggressive profile, with slick tires in the rear, Rev it up and dump the clutch, and now you have a drag race Lada.
I did something similar when I was 11 or 12 with a lawnmower camshaft. I tried 2 things. First, I ground material off of the base circle of the cam and found valves with a long enough stem to get proper valve to lifter clearance. That resulted in .080 more life, but the same stock duration. That is when I took to welding the lobes to increase duration. To my surprise, it worked quite well. The limit was of course the stock valve springs limited the top rpm potential, as did the stock carb.
@@bradroark6036 Yes, when I was 11. I started working in my neighbors machine shop when I was 9. Learned to cut threads on a lathe that same summer. Not every kid collects baseball cards or watches cartoons after school every day. With the money I earned in his shop, I bought my first car. A new 73 TR6 with overdrive from Reedman, in Langhorna PA. For cash. Your command of the English language is exemplary.
@@bradroark6036 I did the same thing. We were building kart engines at 8 or 9, and stuff like this at 12. Nothing amazing. Just kids having a ball making junk faster.
I'm a female but I really love your channel , I had a Lada once and really liked it a lot , wish I could find another one some day , Vlad I think you are a really fun great guy
Rather than aggressive cams, why not create a cam profile that increases low end torque, like a diesel cam on a petrol... all the power from idle to 3000 rpm. Loving this content ❤
Torque is more about compression. You reach a point on a gasoline engine where you simply can't cram in enough air without superheating it above gasoline's auto-ignition limits. You sorta *can't* make a gas engine pretend to be a diesel.
@dustinbrueggemann1875 I agree it's more than the cam,,, and more about compression, mitigating pre ignition and so forth. but at the high end, the engine cant also just spin faster just with a cam,... valve float and so forth.... what i mean is a cam purely to optimise torque, long duration short lift, attempt an increase in volumetric efficiency ... stock cams cover a wide range of rpm. Race cams cater to high rpm power.. how about them torque cams 🤣
@@liamkenny100 I haven't seen a tuner shop selling torque cams, but maybe the stock cam is the closest that it gets. Every time when you increase the duration or lift of the cams, you are usually shifting the torque curve to a higher rpm, because you are reducing static compression and increasing dynamic compression. Even if they made a cam that favors torque, in those snow conditions it may not produce better results, because it's the torque that causes the wheel spin at low-mid range rpms. Maybe fitting a smaller intake/carb or head with smaller ports could have increased the torque due to increased air speed.
Wow, big fan from New Zealand. What you guys do looks so fun, ide love to fly over and visit one day. It would be awesome to see all your crazy projects for myself. ❤ Keep up the fantastic content. Rock on!!! 👊
An easier way to get higher lift with limited machining facilities would be to grind material from the base circle, leaving the lobes as standard, this would give a large tappet clearance when the valve is closed, adjust clearance to normal setting, then you will have a higher valve lift, easy...
I agree,that's 1 way it was done long ago.widening the lobe points would make the open time longer.but then the power moves up in the rpm range.this stuff they are doing is great round table discussion stuff add VODKA to the mix and you might get some great fight footage,haha it might has worked better if they just welded a section of iron pipe 1 1/2 inch sliced 8 ways welded to the top ,then blended to the base circle?that way the height is consistent.
That requires fixing the rest of the geometry. Keeping the same base circle eliminates all of that. You don't need to do it as ghetto as they do but it's definitely not easier that a welded cam.
@@henrygoldberg1248 I don't remember, but for sure it will give the engine much more breathing room. Stacked (as if one going into the other) would probably hurt performance if I had to guess.
This whole test is nice! I enjoy watching the trial & error, if you wanted to get even more performance and check how everything is running next time. Install a wideband 02 sensor and since it's Carburetor you can adjust the fuel jets accordingly. Just my .02 cent
If the engine has a mechanically adjustable valve train you can do almost the exact same thing by just grinding down the "base circles" of the camshaft then adjust out the added slack. I did that on my Honda Z50A and it worked out awesome.
But just the intake until the gas mixes with air. After mix is should not be polished nor too rough. It should look like a freshly finished cylinder wall.
The problem is you are running a high rpm cam but not using it fully go all the way on each gear up to 9k rpm dont short shift at 6k as you are losing a lot of power from the cam. With high rpm cams u dont get much out of it if u shift half way up dont think about the wheel spin just keep it all the way to 9k till u get a feel for it in each gear i bet your 0-100 will be a huge difference, also why not put the engine in a rear drive car it will be a better choice for a high rpm engine. Anyways great video great idea u guys always amaze me and keep it up 👍😁
I'd like to see you guys take a STOCK Lada, performance test it/Dyno etc, THEN, strip the motor, PORT/POLISH IT, BLUEPRINT, HIGH LIFT CAM, 4 BALANCED CARBS (Motorcycle?), LIGHTER FLYWHEEL, LIGHTER INTERNALS, yeah, I mean a FULL 'Race spec', and then performance/Dyno test it again, see what power gains you'd get 🤔😏😉👍 😎🇬🇧
this one is awesome ❤ . keep it up bro . Suggestion Ideas: try to short stroke engine for more power stroke 2 stroke with valves same as new mazda race engien
the camshaft lobe on a overhead cam engine is ground at a verry slight angle . this is so its rotating the little filerplate in the lifter bucket so it doesnt wear a dimple in it welding up a cam and grinding it down will work some but its not ideal , wat ive seen done is people grinding down the base circle of the can and readjusting the valvelash this allso causes the cam to lift more but prevents the metal of the cam to be anealed by the heat of the welding i seen a real camgrinder and the grinding wheel is HUGE on the thing and watercooled i allso seen a homemade version using a bench grinder and a device that uses a second cam to grind the original one , basicly a wheel about the size of the grinding stone sits next to the gronder in a rig holding hoth cams side by side , the wheel gets thouched by the racegrind cam and it lifts the original cam towards and away from the grinder you move the thing side to side from lobe to lobe copying each lobe ontoo the original cam , if you tune / shape the slight angle in the grinding stone you should end u with a cam thats verry close to an original racing cam for verry little extra money once you build the grinding rig
To raise the lift on a camshaft cam,cam manufacturers will grind on the back of the cam lobe instead of welding the tip of the lobe to increase the lift. It is much easier than your solution. Because of the rough surface from grinding you will lose hp due to friction and will need to polish the lobes inorder to free up hp. I have been building racing motors in the US for over 40 years and have had many camshafts modified by professionals because the camshafts were obsolete and a high performance camshaft wasn't available.
HI from the UK. the translation i watch is translated from Russian. i don't know where u are. but love ya stuff. n ya lada knowledge is epic. if u are in Russia. i am in the uk. i do not want anything bad to happen 2 you or your engineering crew. i have watched u for years. the twats in charge of where i live. sorry mate that aint me. I LOVE U N YA LADS. you are like old friends i've known 4 years. n I love ya content. cheers fellow petrol head
Did Vlad say you can buy an engineered and precision ground aftermarket cam for that engine for about $150??? Then later says you can DIY this and "no need to spend money"?!?!?!?
Yes, starting from $150, but keep in mind that if we adjust for average monthly salary (approx $1000 in Russia, making the cost of the camshaft 15% of said salary) In the us this Camshaft would cost $850 as per Bureau of Labor and Statistics of the US.
@@TheAttacker732 Don't get me wrong - this is a super fun and cool experiment. I just don't think it's a viable "alternative" to buying a real aftermarket performance cam.
I just used the bench grinder and ground 3mm from the bottom of the cam lobes and then 1mm from the tip of the lobes to make it less pointy 😅, so being less on the low side after adjusting the extra clearance, it gives the highest point an extra 2mm lift with about 8mm duration.
maan you should build an race engineman! convert a lada engine to ITB's using oem trottle bodies, and high compression by skimming the head or block and to top it off EFI with coil on plug and a proper ECU. aaaand most of it DIY that would be dope
You guys should test using different ratio rocker arms with the same grind camshaft and show the difference from say of 1.4 to a 1.7 would be interesting
instead of screwing long screws from the inside of the tire, you could try the racing bike screws they put on the ice racing motorbikes and they are short stubby guys designed to be screwed into the outside and the hex head gives you the bite into the ice and snow
@@iceyaj3167 such a great story and painstaking work so as long as you were patient and you used hard material as you did for a fill then I’m sure it will have been a top quality repair
aaahahaha :)))) drillbits as filler ... incredible !!!
Thanks for an idea of what to do with broken drill bits
Wow! That's impressive!
Sweet
Ad some harder valvesprings and you will be able to rev much higher.
They are probably coil binding as well 😂
9500 ?... No, no valve float problems here . lol
I don't think it matters... He bailed on it each time somewhere right around 6500... if it wasn't floating at 9k+, then stronger springs aren't going to do anything for the situation.
I doubt that thing can maintain torque all the way to 10k even with ideal valve operation anyway 🤣
I want to see the rods fly out for the block! I want to hear the uneven headers get so much flow that you can hear the restrictions!
@@jwalster9412 rods wont fly out the block, the valve will just float and bend.
I want to say thank you for translating these videos so quickly of late.
you guys need a dyno
Kau benar
Russia is the dyno 😂
Yeah I don’t think that kind of money is just kicking around in suburbia Russia
@@feelincrispy7053the money is definitely there but the dynos aren't lol
@@Jacobtheunwise Yeah no its the other way around. Ive got friends in Bulgaria who know people with dynos. Garage 54 just isnt a performance shop, so a dyno would be an expense they couldnt make back without completely changing their service. Take it from a shop owner and russian connesiour myself, there probably either isnt enough market for performance services in their oblast or they just aren't interested in changing their services. Also decent dynos can cost upwards of $20-40k so yeah theyre not gonna buy that just for YT videos.
As a camshaft manufacturer myself, I can't express how much I enjoy crazy sh*t like this 🤣
If you want higher revs remember to use upgraded stiffer valve springs as well. Otherwise you will get valve- float.
The best part of this channel is the fact they use Lada's for all this crazy stuff. The original LolTractor!
Dunno whatcha mean.
Lada?
Is car 😂
Degree cam gear. +4°. Or. -4°. Keep up the great work! 214%!! Thanks
Definitely revisit this in the summer. Make another flywheel made of lead and a cam with an even more aggressive profile, with slick tires in the rear, Rev it up and dump the clutch, and now you have a drag race Lada.
When I say DIY they mean it . Still waiting on flamethrower wiper blades powered by vodka.
you just gave them a great idea
Someone give op a raise!
I did something similar when I was 11 or 12 with a lawnmower camshaft. I tried 2 things. First, I ground material off of the base circle of the cam and found valves with a long enough stem to get proper valve to lifter clearance. That resulted in .080 more life, but the same stock duration. That is when I took to welding the lobes to increase duration. To my surprise, it worked quite well. The limit was of course the stock valve springs limited the top rpm potential, as did the stock carb.
When you was 11 huh...
@@bradroark6036 Yes, when I was 11. I started working in my neighbors machine shop when I was 9. Learned to cut threads on a lathe that same summer. Not every kid collects baseball cards or watches cartoons after school every day. With the money I earned in his shop, I bought my first car. A new 73 TR6 with overdrive from Reedman, in Langhorna PA. For cash. Your command of the English language is exemplary.
@@bradroark6036 They start working young in Pakistan
@@bradroark6036 I believe him. I was tearing engines down at 10 years old and driving a rig at 12.
@@bradroark6036 I did the same thing. We were building kart engines at 8 or 9, and stuff like this at 12. Nothing amazing. Just kids having a ball making junk faster.
Lots of love for your channel from USA. I love what you do!!! So much fun!!! Gearheads unite!!
I'm a female but I really love your channel , I had a Lada once and really liked it a lot , wish I could find another one some day , Vlad I think you are a really fun great guy
you guys are the masters of mayhem, great work and great stuff.
Rather than aggressive cams, why not create a cam profile that increases low end torque, like a diesel cam on a petrol... all the power from idle to 3000 rpm. Loving this content ❤
Id be happy watching it bend some rods lool
Diesel cams hold the intake valves open for as long as possible from the factory diesel can in a gas engine would be like top fuel dragster profiles
Torque is more about compression. You reach a point on a gasoline engine where you simply can't cram in enough air without superheating it above gasoline's auto-ignition limits. You sorta *can't* make a gas engine pretend to be a diesel.
@dustinbrueggemann1875 I agree it's more than the cam,,, and more about compression, mitigating pre ignition and so forth.
but at the high end, the engine cant also just spin faster just with a cam,... valve float and so forth.... what i mean is a cam purely to optimise torque, long duration short lift, attempt an increase in volumetric efficiency ... stock cams cover a wide range of rpm. Race cams cater to high rpm power.. how about them torque cams 🤣
@@liamkenny100 I haven't seen a tuner shop selling torque cams, but maybe the stock cam is the closest that it gets. Every time when you increase the duration or lift of the cams, you are usually shifting the torque curve to a higher rpm, because you are reducing static compression and increasing dynamic compression.
Even if they made a cam that favors torque, in those snow conditions it may not produce better results, because it's the torque that causes the wheel spin at low-mid range rpms. Maybe fitting a smaller intake/carb or head with smaller ports could have increased the torque due to increased air speed.
I wanna see it rev to 9000rpm under load 😂.
You need to make a part two 🤗
Damn, you guys are showing the skills!! The whole team is full crazy with a lots of ideas that no one ever asked and done before. Amazing ;)
Wow, big fan from New Zealand. What you guys do looks so fun, ide love to fly over and visit one day. It would be awesome to see all your crazy projects for myself. ❤ Keep up the fantastic content. Rock on!!! 👊
Me to from nz
Same
Hello fellow New Zealanders!
An easier way to get higher lift with limited machining facilities would be to grind material from the base circle, leaving the lobes as standard, this would give a large tappet clearance when the valve is closed, adjust clearance to normal setting, then you will have a higher valve lift, easy...
Much better way than those LOBES I saw in video 😁😂🤣
this was the common way back in the day! definitely gives some noisy rockers though
I agree,that's 1 way it was done long ago.widening the lobe points would make the open time longer.but then the power moves up in the rpm range.this stuff they are doing is great round table discussion stuff add VODKA to the mix and you might get some great fight footage,haha it might has worked better if they just welded a section of iron pipe 1 1/2 inch sliced 8 ways welded to the top ,then blended to the base circle?that way the height is consistent.
The easiest way is on pushrod engines, increasing the rocker arm ratio. Most all early GM V engines are a good example.
That requires fixing the rest of the geometry. Keeping the same base circle eliminates all of that. You don't need to do it as ghetto as they do but it's definitely not easier that a welded cam.
6:51 It's Over 9000!
There's no way that's possible, Blyat-geta!
There's no way that can be right.
@@Pyroteknikid The tach was set on 8 cylinders instead of 4. If you know what rpm sounds like, it was closer to 6 thousand
I bet everything above 7K is valve float + lean running + exhaust restrictions and
diy race lada engine with high revving cams better valvesprings a freeflowing exaust and a good carb you guys should make a budget racecar like this
or make a custom manifold/throttle cable and use two of the stock type carburetors
@@joshe2420 Didnt they do something like that a while ago? It might've been stacked carbs, but I seem to remember dual carbs in "parallel."
@@henrygoldberg1248 I don't remember, but for sure it will give the engine much more breathing room. Stacked (as if one going into the other) would probably hurt performance if I had to guess.
@@joshe2420 yeah it’s unfortunate that they don’t really seem to bring back “little” projects like this or at least add onto them
Add that mechanical injector project to get more fuel.
Your video title says Crankshaft but you’re talking about a Camshaft
Crankshaft camshaft basically same thing 😂😂😂 tamato tomato 😂😂
It's also air flow increase, not necessarily rpm but possible power, yet this should be an interesting watch.
@@scoobysean555 on this you meant... tomato 🍅, potato 🥔
@@D.Will.C. 👌😄😄
I have a cat called Ronnie
hmmmmm...... valve float
yes wont adding stronger springs help with it?
@@iliyaniliev8630yes, kinda
@@iliyaniliev8630yes
Add washers will fix it if there's no binding
Sounds delicious
Wow there's an old familiar face back in the shop!
This whole test is nice! I enjoy watching the trial & error, if you wanted to get even more performance and check how everything is running next time. Install a wideband 02 sensor and since it's Carburetor you can adjust the fuel jets accordingly. Just my .02 cent
Very cool.👍🏻
It'd be interesting seeing the camshaft modified for low/mid range torque next.
That is awesome!! I heard the new translation, but I rather hear it in english. Awesome upgrade. (Both in the video and translation)
Definitely revisit this one in the summer!!!
Great video. Stay warm and safe.
I'm waiting for my opposed piston LA DA engine.
Vlad....😊
If the engine has a mechanically adjustable valve train you can do almost the exact same thing by just grinding down the "base circles" of the camshaft then adjust out the added slack.
I did that on my Honda Z50A and it worked out awesome.
Put twin carbs and port polish to rev more!
But just the intake until the gas mixes with air. After mix is should not be polished nor too rough. It should look like a freshly finished cylinder wall.
polishing is basically a myth
Some stiffer valve springs and some tuning of the carb and it'll scream
Add another carby!
Until the lobes wipe and destroyed every oiled moving part
Who needs a honda K series when a lada will turn 9k! 😂 that was so awesome!
Imagine these guys make a race car
These guys yet have a couple race cars, and take pert in some racing. I know they go drift in Russian drift series
They've made a few high end builds, the supra was pretty dope.
The problem is you are running a high rpm cam but not using it fully go all the way on each gear up to 9k rpm dont short shift at 6k as you are losing a lot of power from the cam. With high rpm cams u dont get much out of it if u shift half way up dont think about the wheel spin just keep it all the way to 9k till u get a feel for it in each gear i bet your 0-100 will be a huge difference, also why not put the engine in a rear drive car it will be a better choice for a high rpm engine. Anyways great video great idea u guys always amaze me and keep it up 👍😁
Love your videos lots of great knowledge wish you would invest into a Dyno to show us some numbers ;) 😊
Ehh!!!!! por fin! jaja.. audio en español! jaja felicitaciones!
I'd like to see you guys take a STOCK Lada, performance test it/Dyno etc, THEN, strip the motor, PORT/POLISH IT, BLUEPRINT, HIGH LIFT CAM, 4 BALANCED CARBS (Motorcycle?), LIGHTER FLYWHEEL, LIGHTER INTERNALS, yeah, I mean a FULL 'Race spec', and then performance/Dyno test it again, see what power gains you'd get 🤔😏😉👍 😎🇬🇧
this is one of the coolest things ever
this one is awesome ❤ . keep it up bro .
Suggestion Ideas: try to short stroke engine for more power stroke
2 stroke with valves same as new mazda race engien
I always said the 2 stroke will have a comeback in normals cars.
DIY lada turbo conversion please !! 😁😁😎
shame you dont have a proper EFI, that would be a cool mod, to se what the engine can do with just the right engine management.
LOL i want to run the cam doctor on that shaft to get the specs. Cheers from Australia
Very interesting! I would be interested to see how this performs during the summer. Road conditions should be a lot more predictable then.
Id love to see this in the summer in a rear drive lada with the twin carb setup they did a while back and some hone made headers
the camshaft lobe on a overhead cam engine is ground at a verry slight angle . this is so its rotating the little filerplate in the lifter bucket so it doesnt wear a dimple in it
welding up a cam and grinding it down will work some but its not ideal , wat ive seen done is people grinding down the base circle of the can and readjusting the valvelash this allso causes the cam to lift more but prevents the metal of the cam to be anealed by the heat of the welding
i seen a real camgrinder and the grinding wheel is HUGE on the thing and watercooled
i allso seen a homemade version using a bench grinder and a device that uses a second cam to grind the original one , basicly a wheel about the size of the grinding stone sits next to the gronder in a rig holding hoth cams side by side , the wheel gets thouched by the racegrind cam and it lifts the original cam towards and away from the grinder you move the thing side to side from lobe to lobe copying each lobe ontoo the original cam , if you tune / shape the slight angle in the grinding stone you should end u with a cam thats verry close to an original racing cam for verry little extra money once you build the grinding rig
Easiest cam swap ever 😂
Awesome , I’ve done it to a gx390 single cylinder engine. 73mph in the tuck on a self built frame and rebar spoked space saver wheels.
Definitely a summer revisit is called for
"rev limiters are for decadent westerners!" - Lada, probably
My friends lada did rev up to 10.000rpm but never started again after that test
Legendary. High Revving LADA ENGINE! Racing engine!
Now just install a better intake and a free exhaust, it will rev to 10000
👌😂👍I definitely enjoyed your crazy experiment!
Do a VTEC setup
This seems to big like V-theck for Lada , thumbs up for you guys
Would a slight adjustmant in ignition help at all??
Proper mint ideas nonetheless, keep it up you lot 🤙
I believe it would all help! Also with a better carb, intake and exhaust
didnt see a crankshaft but nice cam job though
Bigger jets To carburetor and it Will fly 👍
These guys need 1m subs asap 👌
Gracias👍 por insertar el idioma Español Latino
ustedes son los mejores 🙂👍
Shim over bucket lifter? My favorite dohc setup!
But Lada sohc
Oh, too bad.
i would love to see much for o performance and weird stuff like this keep it up guys✌️
HERE'S AN IDEA: Get a gasoline engine and try and make a Jake brake for it. Perhaps try the same with a diesel and make a home made Jake brake.
Modifies car but tests on snow. You have to do it when it’s dry and rev that thing to 9k not early shift
They could probably do it on 2nd gear on snow
I wonder how much hp that does at 9k rpm
Not sure if you noticed but it's Russia and winter. Where do you suggest they go?
@@ViniciusNegrao_ More rpm won't increase power if the intake and exhaust don't have enough flow.
We have a lot of Ladas here in America, i should try this.
To raise the lift on a camshaft cam,cam manufacturers will grind on the back of the cam lobe instead of welding the tip of the lobe to increase the lift. It is much easier than your solution. Because of the rough surface from grinding you will lose hp due to friction and will need to polish the lobes inorder to free up hp. I have been building racing motors in the US for over 40 years and have had many camshafts modified by professionals because the camshafts were obsolete and a high performance camshaft wasn't available.
HI from the UK. the translation i watch is translated from Russian. i don't know where u are. but love ya stuff. n ya lada knowledge is epic. if u are in Russia. i am in the uk. i do not want anything bad to happen 2 you or your engineering crew. i have watched u for years. the twats in charge of where i live. sorry mate that aint me. I LOVE U N YA LADS. you are like old friends i've known 4 years. n I love ya content. cheers fellow petrol head
you should put this cam and some stiffer valve springs on the light weight engine
One of the best videos
Bellissima la novità del doppiaggio in italiano 😮👍👍👍
i almost spat out my drink when it became a rotary🤣🤣🤣
Must be good for bernth knowing a bassist exists that is worthy of sharing the stage :P
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 y'all are insane with the mods y'all do
Solid!
Top KEK!
Peace be with you.
I'd like to see you come back to this one when the snow is off the ground. Then we can see what that cam can do when traction is not a factor.
Harder valvesprings 👍😎👍
I would like to see this revisited in the summer with some sticky tires.
Garage 54 with a dyno would be unstoppable
Now put this camshaft in the lightened engine for the ultimate NA Lada Build!!
Did Vlad say you can buy an engineered and precision ground aftermarket cam for that engine for about $150??? Then later says you can DIY this and "no need to spend money"?!?!?!?
Yes, starting from $150, but keep in mind that if we adjust for average monthly salary (approx $1000 in Russia, making the cost of the camshaft 15% of said salary) In the us this Camshaft would cost $850 as per Bureau of Labor and Statistics of the US.
@@ФилиппГерт Interestingly enough, that sounds about right for a basic performance cam for any of the major platforms here.
@@TheAttacker732 Don't get me wrong - this is a super fun and cool experiment. I just don't think it's a viable "alternative" to buying a real aftermarket performance cam.
woah im early, keep it up. love from usa
I just used the bench grinder and ground 3mm from the bottom of the cam lobes and then 1mm from the tip of the lobes to make it less pointy 😅, so being less on the low side after adjusting the extra clearance, it gives the highest point an extra 2mm lift with about 8mm duration.
Felicitaciones en español muy buen programa
Turbo it with a diesel turbo 🎉🎉🎉
They has extreme cam profiles and crazy compresion ratios, and all this stuff for squezze the last drop of performance from LADA engine. (FIAT)
Someone get this man a 90s Honda asap. I'd love to see his reaction to vtec and 7k+ rpm
A bone stock b16a chipped ecu reving out to 10k just cause why not
want to see a test sand off the head for better compression
hmm, may be adjust the exhaust for the higher RPM power ? I dont thing the engine will breathe normally
maan you should build an race engineman! convert a lada engine to ITB's using oem trottle bodies, and high compression by skimming the head or block and to top it off EFI with coil on plug and a proper ECU. aaaand most of it DIY that would be dope
You will need double or tougher valve springs to prevent valvefloat!🙂
Next project: make a variable valve timing system.
After that: make a head with rotary valves like Coates.
I want to see more of this. I want to see how much power you can add just buy modifying stock parts only.
It would be interesting to do the same test, but add a tuned exhaust, and a better intake manifold and carb. Perhaps bike carbs.
I'd do that to my 2.5i M6 GH. That would be fun.
I love these crazy Russians!
Check your Lada old raly drivers competition schedule. They was the best in that era! Like Nicolae Grigoraș, in Romania!
Can you make the coldest intercooler for a turbo engine
You guys should test using different ratio rocker arms with the same grind camshaft and show the difference from say of 1.4 to a 1.7 would be interesting
instead of screwing long screws from the inside of the tire, you could try the racing bike screws they put on the ice racing motorbikes and they are short stubby guys designed to be screwed into the outside and the hex head gives you the bite into the ice and snow
Need heavier springs and straight pipe exhaust to relieve back pressure and more timing more spark more fuel with that camshaft 👍🏻