Ive looked through a ton of videos trying to get Ideas for my 94 chevy 4x4 and they a lot seem to run tubing or channel parallel with the frame and then set the cross members on top of them. I was going to build mine with steel but I think this is how Im going to do it. I dont see the sense in adding the extra weight and a 4x6 is plenty strong enough plus you only need to go as high as your bump stops. So this is so much simpler and it looks pretty cool. Nice job man.
Sweet build. Just a tip on the end where bumper area is I would trim the boards even and flush and I would take a treated 2x4 and carriage bolt it or use screws to fasten it across all the ends to prevent curling up when the sun beats down on it. other than that very nice build 🤟👌👍
I like the fascia boards. Better finished look. In my opinion it would look good with one on the rear also. Another thought is that maybe the side fascia where the d-rings/tie downs will be tensioned from straps could use 1/4 or 5/16 lag bolts rather than screws for strength. Maybe you did that and I didn’t notice. Good work either way!
Thanks! the d-rings themselves are run thru the fascia and into the 4x6 using 5/16 lags so they are quite stout. we are planning to add a rear fascia board once we get the hitch all set up so we can set it up to look finished and "tied in" if you will
Nice! Not sure what wood you used but if someone else is doing this I would recommend NOT using wood treated with alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ) or copper azole (CA) because they will cause steel to corrode much faster. If you do I would recommend sealing the frame somehow. Also whatever fasteners you use should be galvanized or stainless steel.
Looks good boys! What did you do with the gas filler neck??? I would recommend making a board to go under your end to keep all the boards nice flush and make it look more complete but over all she looks rock solid.
same way as drilling wood basically, you just need a good big that is designed for metal. i like to use a series of bits to get to larger sizes as it is easier on the bits vs just going right at it with a large one. you wil lget more life out of your bits this way. keeping it cool also helps, if it gets too hot you can temper the metal making it harder to drill. you may see us using oil where we are drilling metal, this is to help keep things lubricated and more importantly, cool. they make specific oils for drilling (called cutting/tapping oil) but anything is better than nothing, we used motor oil in the video. work your way up in sizes, use oil, and take your time, no need to put all your weight into cutting, let the bit do the work
Very nice build. I'm hoping to do a similar build on a c1500 that I am restoring. Have you any estimate how long such a wood bed should last without losing durability and strength? I should think maybe 5 to 10 years, since it is pressure treated wood. Did you also attach mud flaps in the rear? I would also vote for a headache rack and perhaps metal tool boxes below the bed, mounted to the frame, as a future project. Thanks for sharing your video of this build. Looking forward to future videos of this truck.
he has not put mud flaps on the truck, though i think it's a good idea. up here in salt country I'm not sure how long a good wooden bed will last. i would think about 10 years with how large of materials we used. Hopefully videos of a headache rack will be coming soon!
Great video! Planning on doing this to my Dodge Ram. Have you guys got around to building a headache rack for it yet? Hoping to see that video soon. Also how’s the bed holding so far?
thanks! he actually just built a cargo box where a headache rack would be and removable bedsides. its very functional and holding up extremely well. zero complaints thus far and have had over 1000 lbs on it with zero flex/give
filler neck was routed to the side and cut into the fascia board, it was not in place for the end of the video since we were still waiting on the parts
to change the fuel pump itself, all you need to do is remove i deck board and you have full access to change the pump assembly. the 4x6 crossmembers were spaced so that it was still accessible
filler neck was routed to the side and cut into the fascia board, it was not in place for the end of the video since we were still waiting on the parts
![DIY Flatbed Build [part 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KJnhH7mRRWc/mqdefault.jpg)
![DIY Flatbed Build [part 1]](/img/tr.png)
Ive got a 73 F100 and this is full of good ideas, thanks for posting it.
Nice. I'm thinking about doing that for my 01 F-250.
Just Started my flat bed build I have a 95 chevy C3500 and I am making a few alterations but for the most part this was a great video on how to do it
Great video and job.👍
Ive looked through a ton of videos trying to get Ideas for my 94 chevy 4x4
and they a lot seem to run tubing or channel parallel with the frame and then set the cross members on top of them. I was going to build mine with steel but I think this is how Im going to do it. I dont see the sense in adding the extra weight and a 4x6 is plenty strong enough plus you only need to go as high as your bump stops. So this is so much simpler and it looks pretty cool. Nice job man.
i appreciate it! happy i could provide some inspiration!
Nice. I am in the planning stages for a wood flat deck for my sons 95 Dakota. I will use some of the ideas here.
Looks great! I put a wood bed on my f-150 and love it!
Sweet build. Just a tip on the end where bumper area is I would trim the boards even and flush and I would take a treated 2x4 and carriage bolt it or use screws to fasten it across all the ends to prevent curling up when the sun beats down on it. other than that very nice build 🤟👌👍
we did end up running a support there for that reason 🤘
Preparing to go with wood bed on my 07, Dodge Dakota. Bed was ugly dented rusting just ugly. Thanks for the ideas.
Good job,looks good thanks.
Very similar to the one I'm building now. On a 77 ford 4x4
I like the fascia boards. Better finished look. In my opinion it would look good with one on the rear also. Another thought is that maybe the side fascia where the d-rings/tie downs will be tensioned from straps could use 1/4 or 5/16 lag bolts rather than screws for strength. Maybe you did that and I didn’t notice. Good work either way!
Thanks! the d-rings themselves are run thru the fascia and into the 4x6 using 5/16 lags so they are quite stout. we are planning to add a rear fascia board once we get the hitch all set up so we can set it up to look finished and "tied in" if you will
Appreciate the video! I'm wanting to build a flat bed from wood for my truck but wasn't sure how to go about it and have a Solid truck bed.
i can confirm this has been VERY solid since building!
Nice! Not sure what wood you used but if someone else is doing this I would recommend NOT using wood treated with alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ) or copper azole (CA) because they will cause steel to corrode much faster. If you do I would recommend sealing the frame somehow. Also whatever fasteners you use should be galvanized or stainless steel.
@dustinsiemers4766 good point on the chemical treating corroding the frame! all fasteners were plated, not just raw
If I was gonna do anything I'd cap the edges with angle steel and perhaps add a headache rack
Looks good boys! What did you do with the gas filler neck??? I would recommend making a board to go under your end to keep all the boards nice flush and make it look more complete but over all she looks rock solid.
@@BvictoryforChrist the filler got placed in a fascia board on the side. mounted just below bed height. looked appropriate and worked perfect
👍 good job 👍
thanks!
I have zero experience drilling steel. Will you please explain how you drilled the frame?
same way as drilling wood basically, you just need a good big that is designed for metal. i like to use a series of bits to get to larger sizes as it is easier on the bits vs just going right at it with a large one. you wil lget more life out of your bits this way. keeping it cool also helps, if it gets too hot you can temper the metal making it harder to drill. you may see us using oil where we are drilling metal, this is to help keep things lubricated and more importantly, cool. they make specific oils for drilling (called cutting/tapping oil) but anything is better than nothing, we used motor oil in the video. work your way up in sizes, use oil, and take your time, no need to put all your weight into cutting, let the bit do the work
I did not see how you mounted the fuel filler neck. If it just sits below the deck, does it fill easily?
we did not have it mounted yet in the video. it is mounted in the driver side fascia board so it can be accessed even if the bed is being used
Very nice build. I'm hoping to do a similar build on a c1500 that I am restoring. Have you any estimate how long such a wood bed should last without losing durability and strength? I should think maybe 5 to 10 years, since it is pressure treated wood. Did you also attach mud flaps in the rear? I would also vote for a headache rack and perhaps metal tool boxes below the bed, mounted to the frame, as a future project. Thanks for sharing your video of this build. Looking forward to future videos of this truck.
he has not put mud flaps on the truck, though i think it's a good idea. up here in salt country I'm not sure how long a good wooden bed will last. i would think about 10 years with how large of materials we used. Hopefully videos of a headache rack will be coming soon!
Love the look of the bed are you going to do a gate on the back with removable sides??
yes there will be sides and a gate at somepoint. i will likely put out a video when we get around to it
Great video! Planning on doing this to my Dodge Ram. Have you guys got around to building a headache rack for it yet? Hoping to see that video soon. Also how’s the bed holding so far?
thanks! he actually just built a cargo box where a headache rack would be and removable bedsides. its very functional and holding up extremely well. zero complaints thus far and have had over 1000 lbs on it with zero flex/give
@@slothfabgarage8233 awesome! Greats news, you guys should upload a short video of it finished
@@85bcmedic i just might!
Nice work but , just remember one man’s music is another man’s racket, please !! I wonder how much difference in weight over all steel bed ??!
Any idea of payload it will handle??
in theory... a lot. i wouldn't hesitate to put several thousand pounds (appropriately placed) on it.
Can I use 6x6 post for the frame?
yes that would be plenty strong but may not lay as nicely as the 4x6 we used, you would need to lay them out and see
What kind of fuel filler neck did you use?
it was a generic piece of fuel filler hose from a local auto supplier, we simply extended the factory filler out to the edge of the bed
Opening to access fuel pump
filler neck was routed to the side and cut into the fascia board, it was not in place for the end of the video since we were still waiting on the parts
to change the fuel pump itself, all you need to do is remove i deck board and you have full access to change the pump assembly. the 4x6 crossmembers were spaced so that it was still accessible
Is that a long bed
it is about a 9 foot bed. it was originally a cab a chassis truck so about an 11 foot bed but was cut down before he purchased it
@@slothfabgarage8233 awesome thank you sir
Where's the gas cap???
filler neck was routed to the side and cut into the fascia board, it was not in place for the end of the video since we were still waiting on the parts
grade a bolts