𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀 1/2" & 3/4" PEX Crimper: geni.us/xjau PEX Cutter: geni.us/1AIbA6 PEX Rings: geni.us/i2vAp PEX Clips: geni.us/cyZa7Xe Disclosure: Pros DIY is an Amazon Associate. We earn a small commission from qualifying purchases through our affiliate links at no additional cost to you.
That has absolutely nothing to do with whether or not any of you Amazon people are going to come help this old senior citizen get my water working again
Great video. I have the poly b too. Mostly behind finished walls. Going to replace whenever a room needs to be painted. Doing the upstairs bathroom now.
Nice! We are pretty much tackling it the same way. I'm going to replace them as I renovate or paint each room as well. Good luck on your projects. Cheers!
In my house that was built in the mid 80's the polyb installation never leaked, except for a few weeks ago, when the line for a hose bib got pulled on. i think the quality of installation differs a lot and that influences how long it lasts before it starts leaking. anyway i'm planning on repining it myself after a quote for 10k for a new supply line and stub outs in pex.
You earned a subscriber. This video was more helpful than you know. I am hoping you have some videos about connecting from the rough to an island sink. How to connect the drains properly with traps and a proper island vent?
@@PROSDIY so you went from 80s poly b to modern piping, then youre gonna go retro and ugly with drop in ceilings lol.. yuck.. why not just frame with 2x4s and do drywall ? Our house was built in 93.. has poly B, and dropp ceilings.. those things are going... not sure if ill replaced the poly B though, were on well water, and i have the 3rd gen poly B with metal fittings not plastic elbows and such. Im not too worried about poly B leaks on well. But redoing piping isnt that hard.. so i guess i might as well if im going to dry wall. The MAIN reason though why i would replace poly B isnt because im paranoid about leaks.. but more so water pressure.. I have to keep my pressure tank at 45 psi.. any higher say 55psi, and i risk the poly b bursting, so water pressure isnt too great.
The reason why the hot copper line is always shinier than the cold, is because of condensation. Condensation on the cold water line, which doesn't occur on the hot, causes oxidation/corrosion.
first time here, subsribed! You definitely know your stuff very well! I am hoping you have the time to answer 2 questions for me: 1. I bought a house which is done mostly in pex B. I bought a milwaukee Pex A expansion tool from a retired plumber. I would like to do some remodeling under my sink using Pex A (currently, they have pex b going to below the sink in the crawl, then they transition to copper to come up through the floor for some reason). Question: What kind of transition should I be using? I want to use Uponor Pex A fittings. 2. If I remove the existing copper coming up into the fixtures, shower, etc.., and just have the short copper run after the main incoming water shut off ball valve, do I have to worry about 'arrest' issues? I think I know what that is, it is when you go to use the water, or turn it off, and you can hear the "thump". If you're near Toledo, OH, can I hire you for a few hours? lol
awesome.. our mobile home is a PolyB nightmare.. got all the PEX just not looking forward to installing it under our trailer.. i'm 52 and not as flexible as i used to be :)
@@PROSDIY no problem. Great video. Curious.... I've read multiple conflicting information on safety of pex for drinking water. Also whether to use sharkbite push adapters. Thoughts?
I haven't read too much into PEX safety to be honest. It's pretty much the normal in new construction though. I personally only use sharkbites for temporary emergencies. Mainly because of the cost of the fittings. That being said sharkbite (push-fit connections) have been around for a long time (30+years). I've seen some leak, but no more common than a poor solder joint or bad PEX connection. Personally I think they have proven themselves to be a reliable fitting. Will the o-ring fail at the 50 year mark? Only time will tell, but I don't think so. I know some jurisdictions that trust them enough that they allow them on their main water supply lines to the water meter. That's saying something.
Thanks . Our house has in-floor heating using poly-b and replacing is a huge pain as all floor has to be damaged . Do you have any other idea ? I am just wondering if I can insert a smaller size of PEX into existing poly-b tube to replace ? Cheers
Is it better 2 have a straight flex hose attachment than a curved one or doesn't matter? My copper pipes stick out from bottom not from wall which they always show.( 2nd floor condo) and sell.
Awesome video. The crimp rings that you're using seem to be convenient by being a pretty snug fit and not sliding around on the pipe. Do you pre crimp them?
i had steel braided line let go. spraying right thru the steel. the inside line just fell apart. seems today the quality look hides where the manufacturer cut cost on?
I'm new to plumbing and learning on the mobile home I just moved into, after discovering two leaks and that it's a lot of polyb piping which I've now read is extremely prone to leaking. Will be slowly repiping and putting PEX in. Just curious, is there a reason for using crimp rings instead of cinch clamps? The supply valve that I replaced in the bathroom I used Teflon tape and a cinch clamp to secure. Is this incorrect?
Great video instruction. Should I run 3/4 pex all the way to my sink (upstairs kitchen same as your layout) and then find a 1/4 stop valve to faucet lines? I Want to get more water volume. OR it doesn't matter currently 3/4 pex runs about 3 feet from faucent and is reduced to 1/2 copper to faucet line. Basically I am asking does it make sense to replace 3 feet of 1/2 copper with 3 feet of 3/4 pex to get more water volume
Awesome video man! However I had to pause it at 8:44 and come down here because I'm not an electrician nor am i a plumber but the jagged cut tin against that 14-3 wire there seems a little nightmare material 🤣
Yes I am a senior citizen I live in a trailer so I have to go crawl from the front all the way to the back underneath the trailer to turn the water on and off and before I started the Water Project I had to put the skirting back up so my hands are all cut up to and I got bandages all over them don't forget the senior part
I think the root cause of PB failure of the pipe itself is not embrittlement, its a slow chemical interaction of the chlorine in the water. We have a rental trailer on well water (no chlorine obviously) that is 26 years old and the PB pipe is pristine condition. I have replaced a few section due to leaking valve stems and the PB pipe is pliable. Now the fittings came in both plastic and copper. I have the copper ones, but I think the plastic fittings may have been failing when going brittle.
I'm just quickly summing it up. There are many studies due to the thousands of lawsuits. A common one is that UV light caused damage prior to installation, which I tend to believe. In Canada where all the piping is stored indoors prior to purchase (winter) they had a lot less issues than in the USA where the piping was far more likely to be sitting outside either at the wholesaler, or at the job site. You're right. There are still 1000s of homes that have poly-b that still seem in great condition, I'm glad yours is one of them.
My mobile home has that poly b pipe. It also has plastic connectors that either leaked or broke due to being brittle. The only problem with a pinhole leak occured in the hot water heater line. Then the water sprayed on the wall socket which almost started a fire under the house. The breaker tripped but some sparking still happened as the socket was black. I'm going to be replacing poly b with pex which also has problems with chlorine but it should last at least 50 years. I already use some sharkbite connectors for couple years and no leaks so I might install all 16 of them when I redo the lines. I don't trust crimp on connectors as some came undone already. Also, it's easier to replace a bad sharkbite connector than crimp the connections.
@@jcd13able interesting. I agree on the PB plastic connectors going bad. On the PEX crimp rings there are two types. The ones that are the black copper rings that are crimped like the ones on the PB pipe.. I've never had any of those fail in the 300 or so I have done. Have you checked your crimper is working right?.. i.e did you check the finished crimp with the go-nogo gauge that came with the tool? I have not used the other type of metal crimp the one where you just squeeze the edge of the stainless steel band. The other option is to use type A PEX where you use the expansion tool and the pipe/PEX ring shrinks back down on the fitting. Those work very well too, but the extra cost of the pipe/tool may not be worth it for 16 joints. Note, NEVER use an expansion tool on type B pex, which is the standard Home Depot stuff.. Crimp rings only with type B.
I am attempting a redo on 1988 Fleetwood. The Grey pipe has not leaked. Tenants (caretakers) of property were hoarders and allowed the home to deteriorate. It will be a tear down to the studs. I might as well replace while I am there. 😊 Thank you for the advice.
I'm old and I've been working on this Plumbing for three days I'd appreciate it if you'd come help me out with underneath must think it's killing me thank you
I hate those nail in hangers, he’s using. About every has broken, and I’ve had to yank the nails out, replaced every one with the Black Loop Clamps, screwed in.
@@adrowsypoet You always want to use the torch wide open. But you need to apply the solder as soon as the solder melts. Overheating the joint will burn the flux and will cause many undesirable issues...
𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀
1/2" & 3/4" PEX Crimper: geni.us/xjau
PEX Cutter: geni.us/1AIbA6
PEX Rings: geni.us/i2vAp
PEX Clips: geni.us/cyZa7Xe
Disclosure: Pros DIY is an Amazon Associate. We earn a small commission from qualifying purchases through our affiliate links at no additional cost to you.
1
That has absolutely nothing to do with whether or not any of you Amazon people are going to come help this old senior citizen get my water working again
Best Pex and good plumbing practices I’ve ever seen.
Great tips … preempted multiple errors
Thanks
About half way through that copper soldering was masterful!
Awesome details!!! The pex crimping " goofs"... FANTASTIC!!
Thank you for the examples of errors. Very helpful
Great demonstration in detail. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. Good job.
Great video. I have the poly b too. Mostly behind finished walls. Going to replace whenever a room needs to be
painted. Doing the upstairs bathroom now.
Nice! We are pretty much tackling it the same way. I'm going to replace them as I renovate or paint each room as well. Good luck on your projects. Cheers!
In my house that was built in the mid 80's the polyb installation never leaked, except for a few weeks ago, when the line for a hose bib got pulled on. i think the quality of installation differs a lot and that influences how long it lasts before it starts leaking. anyway i'm planning on repining it myself after a quote for 10k for a new supply line and stub outs in pex.
You earned a subscriber. This video was more helpful than you know.
I am hoping you have some videos about connecting from the rough to an island sink. How to connect the drains properly with traps and a proper island vent?
Yes I agree
Like your video and super clear instructions. Just one comment as I learnt from other videos that Pex could not start for UV; i.e. sunlight.
Much appreciated! Have a great one.
This was a great video. Nicely done. 👌
Is always some kind of history teller about safety 😂😂
outstanding video...learn a lot
Looks so nice!
excellent video, thank you!
Curious, why did you hang your new piping below the furring strips?
Good question. There's so much already hanging below them, that when I decide to finish that room, I'm going to install a dropped ceiling.
@@PROSDIY so you went from 80s poly b to modern piping, then youre gonna go retro and ugly with drop in ceilings lol.. yuck.. why not just frame with 2x4s and do drywall ? Our house was built in 93.. has poly B, and dropp ceilings.. those things are going... not sure if ill replaced the poly B though, were on well water, and i have the 3rd gen poly B with metal fittings not plastic elbows and such. Im not too worried about poly B leaks on well. But redoing piping isnt that hard.. so i guess i might as well if im going to dry wall. The MAIN reason though why i would replace poly B isnt because im paranoid about leaks.. but more so water pressure.. I have to keep my pressure tank at 45 psi.. any higher say 55psi, and i risk the poly b bursting, so water pressure isnt too great.
You had some great suggestions!!! Thank you.
Excellent. Thank you.
Thanks, very helpful.
The reason why the hot copper line is always shinier than the cold, is because of condensation. Condensation on the cold water line, which doesn't occur on the hot, causes oxidation/corrosion.
very informative video ! I have poly quest pipe which is failing all thru the house !!
great knowledge thanks for sharing
how is that pipe holding up in all that window sunlight coming in? pex is very ultraviolet sensitive regardless of the type if i am not mistaken.
Very slick!
first time here, subsribed! You definitely know your stuff very well!
I am hoping you have the time to answer 2 questions for me:
1. I bought a house which is done mostly in pex B. I bought a milwaukee Pex A expansion tool from a retired plumber. I would like to do some remodeling under my sink using Pex A (currently, they have pex b going to below the sink in the crawl, then they transition to copper to come up through the floor for some reason). Question: What kind of transition should I be using? I want to use Uponor Pex A fittings.
2. If I remove the existing copper coming up into the fixtures, shower, etc.., and just have the short copper run after the main incoming water shut off ball valve, do I have to worry about 'arrest' issues? I think I know what that is, it is when you go to use the water, or turn it off, and you can hear the "thump".
If you're near Toledo, OH, can I hire you for a few hours? lol
Helpful info!
Proper video!
awesome.. our mobile home is a PolyB nightmare.. got all the PEX just not looking forward to installing it under our trailer.. i'm 52 and not as flexible as i used to be :)
That does sound like a nightmare. Trailers add an extra challenge for sure. Good luck on your replacement!
Great video Pros DIY!
Very helpful thank you!
I coughed up my drink when you drank from the poly b after cutting it. Lol. Hilarious.
Lol, Glad you enjoyed it! Cheers!
@@PROSDIY no problem. Great video. Curious.... I've read multiple conflicting information on safety of pex for drinking water. Also whether to use sharkbite push adapters. Thoughts?
I haven't read too much into PEX safety to be honest. It's pretty much the normal in new construction though. I personally only use sharkbites for temporary emergencies. Mainly because of the cost of the fittings. That being said sharkbite (push-fit connections) have been around for a long time (30+years). I've seen some leak, but no more common than a poor solder joint or bad PEX connection. Personally I think they have proven themselves to be a reliable fitting. Will the o-ring fail at the 50 year mark? Only time will tell, but I don't think so. I know some jurisdictions that trust them enough that they allow them on their main water supply lines to the water meter. That's saying something.
Thank you !
Thanks . Our house has in-floor heating using poly-b and replacing is a huge pain as all floor has to be damaged . Do you have any other idea ? I am just wondering if I can insert a smaller size of PEX into existing poly-b tube to replace ? Cheers
Is it better 2 have a straight flex hose attachment than a curved one or doesn't matter? My copper pipes stick out from bottom not from wall which they always show.( 2nd floor condo) and sell.
Awesome video. The crimp rings that you're using seem to be convenient by being a pretty snug fit and not sliding around on the pipe. Do you pre crimp them?
i had steel braided line let go. spraying right thru the steel. the inside line just fell apart. seems today the quality look hides where the manufacturer cut cost on?
Thanks, what’s that plate thing at the bottom of the sink holding the hose?
Hi... Would you say using a curved 90 is better for end pressure, as opposed to an elbow fitting 90?... Using 3/4 pex...Thanks...
I'm new to plumbing and learning on the mobile home I just moved into, after discovering two leaks and that it's a lot of polyb piping which I've now read is extremely prone to leaking. Will be slowly repiping and putting PEX in. Just curious, is there a reason for using crimp rings instead of cinch clamps? The supply valve that I replaced in the bathroom I used Teflon tape and a cinch clamp to secure. Is this incorrect?
Great video instruction. Should I run 3/4 pex all the way to my sink (upstairs kitchen same as your layout) and then find a 1/4 stop valve to faucet lines? I Want to get more water volume. OR it doesn't matter currently 3/4 pex runs about 3 feet from faucent and is reduced to 1/2 copper to faucet line. Basically I am asking does it make sense to replace 3 feet of 1/2 copper with 3 feet of 3/4 pex to get more water volume
Awesome video man! However I had to pause it at 8:44 and come down here because I'm not an electrician nor am i a plumber but the jagged cut tin against that 14-3 wire there seems a little nightmare material 🤣
Avoid the solder joint use compression and that way the DIY will not burn down the house. :)
Do you hook into the old water line?
Ty u just saved my ass
Yes I am a senior citizen I live in a trailer so I have to go crawl from the front all the way to the back underneath the trailer to turn the water on and off and before I started the Water Project I had to put the skirting back up so my hands are all cut up to and I got bandages all over them don't forget the senior part
I think the root cause of PB failure of the pipe itself is not embrittlement, its a slow chemical interaction of the chlorine in the water. We have a rental trailer on well water (no chlorine obviously) that is 26 years old and the PB pipe is pristine condition. I have replaced a few section due to leaking valve stems and the PB pipe is pliable. Now the fittings came in both plastic and copper. I have the copper ones, but I think the plastic fittings may have been failing when going brittle.
I'm just quickly summing it up. There are many studies due to the thousands of lawsuits. A common one is that UV light caused damage prior to installation, which I tend to believe. In Canada where all the piping is stored indoors prior to purchase (winter) they had a lot less issues than in the USA where the piping was far more likely to be sitting outside either at the wholesaler, or at the job site. You're right. There are still 1000s of homes that have poly-b that still seem in great condition, I'm glad yours is one of them.
@@PROSDIY Haha.. Yeah me too..:). Actually the UV degradation theory is entirely plausible as well.
My mobile home has that poly b pipe. It also has plastic connectors that either leaked or broke due to being brittle. The only problem with a pinhole leak occured in the hot water heater line. Then the water sprayed on the wall socket which almost started a fire under the house. The breaker tripped but some sparking still happened as the socket was black. I'm going to be replacing poly b with pex which also has problems with chlorine but it should last at least 50 years. I already use some sharkbite connectors for couple years and no leaks so I might install all 16 of them when I redo the lines. I don't trust crimp on connectors as some came undone already. Also, it's easier to replace a bad sharkbite connector than crimp the connections.
@@jcd13able interesting. I agree on the PB plastic connectors going bad. On the PEX crimp rings there are two types. The ones that are the black copper rings that are crimped like the ones on the PB pipe.. I've never had any of those fail in the 300 or so I have done. Have you checked your crimper is working right?.. i.e did you check the finished crimp with the go-nogo gauge that came with the tool? I have not used the other type of metal crimp the one where you just squeeze the edge of the stainless steel band. The other option is to use type A PEX where you use the expansion tool and the pipe/PEX ring shrinks back down on the fitting. Those work very well too, but the extra cost of the pipe/tool may not be worth it for 16 joints. Note, NEVER use an expansion tool on type B pex, which is the standard Home Depot stuff.. Crimp rings only with type B.
I am attempting a redo on 1988 Fleetwood. The Grey pipe has not leaked. Tenants (caretakers) of property were hoarders and allowed the home to deteriorate. It will be a tear down to the studs. I might as well replace while I am there. 😊 Thank you for the advice.
An old license plate for a heat barrier works for me every time.
I never had any trouble with PB. I'm pretty sure it was one company getting rid of it's competitor
Why no teflon on the connections?
I'm old and I've been working on this Plumbing for three days I'd appreciate it if you'd come help me out with underneath must think it's killing me thank you
great vid. you removed the dahl valve! :(
Lol I know, I'm sad too. I typically only buy dahl valves but my local supplier has them on backorder.
@ 3:51 Whoever wired that house was not a qualified electrician, wires run under the strapping. 😢
4:15 🤨🤔😟🤢😖😮💨😕 ..
.. I just read a comment about you drinking some too.. I.. I can't handle this. Good day sir. be safe.....
There was enough slack in that initial install for 20 sink replacements
I hate those nail in hangers, he’s using. About every has broken, and I’ve had to yank the nails out, replaced every one with the Black Loop Clamps, screwed in.
Way.... to much heat when soldering, the flux will burn and the solder will not adhere properly....
Can you do it on low heat?
@@adrowsypoet You always want to use the torch wide open. But you need to apply the solder as soon as the solder melts. Overheating the joint will burn the flux and will cause many undesirable issues...
Это очень всё ужасно.