PEX Pipe: Plumbing for Homeowners
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- Опубликовано: 3 май 2024
- Learn what PEX pipe and fittings are and how they're used in your home. This is part 1 of the Plumbing for Homeowners series on LRN2DIY. #plumbing #pex #diy
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📦 PRODUCTS IN THIS VIDEO (In order of appearance) 📦
*1/2" Hot and Cold PEX Piping (PAID AMAZON LINK): geni.us/9eOdip
*3/4" Hot and Cold PEX Piping (PAID AMAZON LINK): geni.us/C23L
*Pipe Cutting Tool: homedepot.sjv.io/zagK3O
*(30) 1/2" Brass PEX Fittings 10 Each Elbow TEE Coupler (PAID AMAZON LINK): geni.us/77Blr
*(Pack of 24)EFIELD Pex Fitting Combo with 3/4" Tees"T" (8 PCS), 3/4" Elbows (8 PCS), 3/4" Couplings (8 PCS) LEAD FREE -24 PIECES 3/4" (PAID AMAZON LINK): geni.us/eDgS
*Crimper tool with crimps (PAID AMAZON LINK): geni.us/mf3bOV
*Vice Grips (PAID AMAZON LINK): geni.us/ABBTQAo
*Tile Hole Drill BitS (PAID AMAZON LINK): geni.us/0N6b0
*Pex Crimping Tool: homedepot.sjv.io/a1RokW
Most links are affiliate links, which means you pay the same price as always but we make a small commission, which helps out our channel, so thank you for using them!
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00:00 Creating a T
06:12 Installing a New Water Line
10:31 Capping the Open Line
11:39 Turning the Water Back On 
Хобби
If you have to do a big job I recommend you purchase a battery operated Ryobi crimper. I paid less than $200.00 at Home and trust me, it is worth the money. I just replumed my house which has a crawl space. Laying on your back, reaching into tight spaces, having to hold everything in place while trying to clamp down with a hand crimper can be frustrating and exhausting.
Thanks....I will consider looking into one.
Yeah Im a strong dude and even I started getting pretty tired after making about 12 crimps. You also need to be able to be about even with the crimp with the manual tool. I had some overhead crimps to make and wow because of the poor leverage I was barely able to make the crimp. I eventually grabbed a ladder so I could crimp at shoulder height.
Hello are you still using your Ryobi Crimper ?
If not what did you replace it with ?
Or a wirsbo gun by Milwaukee
About three years ago I bought the Ryobi crimper. Works great! The only thing is that with the battery it can get heavy and so getting the jaws flush with the pinch requires the tool to be carefully place into positio (even with the crimp). By the way, the tool only cost about $125 at Home Depot.
Great video! Just one piece of personal preference, use white pipe when coming up into the rooms where the pipe will be seen. It looks more uniform and clean that way. You don’t really need to identify hot and cold when inside the room, having the lines color coded in the basement is good enough. Just my two pennies.
Thank you ! Clear concise instruction. Definitely gives me the confidence to attempt the same job. 1st time homeowner here.
I've found that using the pet clamps are GREAT for putting garden hose fittings on. I feel they are a lot better than the screw on hose clamps, as you don't have the end of the hose clamp sticking out to potentially cut your fingers, etc. They also clamp down tight enough to prevent leaks.
This is a phenomenal video. I've watched a dozen and you are straight to the point and show what is necessary. Thank you!
I like the pro pinch clamps. They have a red tab that you line up with the end of the pipe so you have the perfect spacing
Thank you for demystifying this system! I feel confident trying this out.
Awesome video that is straightforward. I'm getting ready to finish my basement and need to run a couple of lines and this gave me the info I need. Thank you.
I thought this was a very helpful video for someone like me who is looking to reroute some water lines in the bathroom. The only thing that I found lacking was that there was no explanation as to what fitting materials we should be looking to use for particular applications or what the advantage is of using each type of ring. For example, some fittings (like the T's) are black (pex?) while others are copper. And is should the copper rings be used in certain cases instead of the crimp rings or vice versa? Thanks!
The problem with Pex is you need the inside pieces to make it rigid for connections and these reduce the diameter quite a bit and also cause turbulence in the line. So you wind up having to buy 3/4 for 1/2 needs and 1inch for 3/4 in needs to get same flow. I've seen it used in older houses that have 1/2 copper, they use 1/2 pex and effectively reduce it to something like 3/8 throughput. Not to mention the long-term effects of the plastics leaching out.
Yep. I was thinking that I might use PEX for cold-water applications but if the cold-water supply ever gets above 70degF (it does where I live), I'd probably just use hire a plumber to do it all with copper.
Water tastes significantly different when cold, and I don't think it's fully explained by tastebuds; I think it's also partially due to chemical leakage from water pipes. Just because a pipe doesn't contain PTFE doesn't mean that it doesn't contain other compounds within the same chemical family that likely exhibit the same properties. Our legislation on its safety is too narrow and specific, when the entire class of compounds likely has similar effects. Btw, Teflon is in the same realm, as are most anti-stick compounds used in non-stick frying pans. Look up "forever chemicals" if you want to learn more. Note that the compounds are almost always inert (don't chemically react with anything). The main issue I see is that they take up space, which could make certain chemical reactions in the body slower (coming in between other chemicals), which could hinder production of all the chemicals our bodies need to survive.
Heat speeds up diffusion (leaching from pipe into water supply), which is why I might use PEX for cold-water applications, but never for hot-water applications.
Not sold on pex completely
I have to warranty my jobs and worry about rats trapped under houses.......they can sense water if needed and chew thru that in no time
It's worse case scenario but
Doing a kitchen and bath remodel where they have huge rat problem and I repiped and new drains thruout entire house....used copper instead and always the thicker one for concrete
True for _most_ PEX B, but just to clarify, PEX A with expansion fittings has much less reduction.
Nils, you did a really good job with this. very clear.
This is awesome! Thanks going to buy all the stuff I need and leave it in the basement.
That was very clearly explained. Thank you!
Also check out PE-RT piping, and expansionable (ASTM F1960) Zurn Pex-B piping.
The PE-RT piping is recyclable, expansionable/flexible like PEX-A, and allegedly stands up to chlorine/chloramines better than PEX.
Good video; thanks, one small recommendation, maybe mention the differences clearances of the two clamping options, first one gets into tighter spaces. Thx!
thanks! I am about to do an overhead repipe on my florida house. Never used Pex but am good with sweat. But will be using pex
THANK YOU! I just bought a house and we went to install a bidet, and the first thing I did was break the shutoff valve to our master bathroom toilet. Yikes. This helps me so much. I think I can do this without a plumber!
Glad to hear it! Good luck with the plumbing and may the force be with you! ;)
thank you! this helps me a lot, as I'm learning about replacing my galvanized pips with PEX-B as that all lowes carry in my area.
Nils, thank you for showing me how easy it can be to use PEX piping. None of the useless nonsense that other RUclipsrs sometimes include in their posts.
I'm in Denmark, and they (plumbers) pull pex inside a flexible tube which means that if something happens later they can pull out the pex tube and replace it.
Thanks so much it does make me feel more confident about doing it myself.
Thanks. this winter I blew yet more PVC in my barn bathroom. Repaired it only to have another joint , that wasn't even a problem, blow right in my face sending water everywhere. Just glad I was standing there. Anyways, I had to check out your video to see if I wanting to rip everything out and go PEX. I believe that's exactly what I need to do after watching your video.
That stinks and I'm sorry. On the bright side, PEX is one of the easier pipe formats to work with (in my opinion). Hopefully you'll be able to fix it for good.
@@LRN2DIY How could you possibly reply and keep a straight face? Oh man, I was laughing! That was a good one.
Thank you. I have done a lot of copper and this will help. In the future I would recommend that you use 1/4 turn ball valves instead of those gate valves as they will be maintenance free and not leak. Also at the end it looked like your valve was leaking but it could have been the video.
I also seen the valve on the hot side for the bidet leaking.
I initially thought the same thing about the hot water leak, but it seems it's just artifacts from the video compression. Probably RUclips doing its thing.
Not sure if it was the camera but there appeared to be a leak at the shutoff in the bathroom. Thanks for the video, very informative.
Nicely done video! Very clear explanation and good camera work.
Very helpful explanation and demonstration. Thanks!
I “was” super intimidated to try pex. Still not there 100%. But this made me feel a lot better about it. Thx for sharing. Watching from Ontario Canada
PEX A is a better way to go. I have used both PEX A and B and PEX A is so much better. The tool is not to expensive if you already have the battery. No water flow restrictions and the pipe is more flexible. If you go with PEX B size up the pipe.
My daughter had a slight leak custom ceiling damage in the den they had the insurance company come out and look at it. They were told that they have to replace all the copper pipe in their house or they're going to deny any future claims. This is because there is quite a bit of discoloration on the copper where potential leaks may happen. I will probably use the white pipe throughout their house. Fortunately all the bathroom fixtures have an exposed wall on the backside. The kitchen may be harder since it's on an outside wall. They're also told it had to be done by May or they will cancel their insurance completely.
Good reason not to call them for small stuff
What insurance company!? I'm sure we'd ALL like to AVOID THEM!??
hmmm. It sounds like the copper was resting on steel somewhere in its run. Like across a heating duct. And I know some states require copper; PEX is still not approved.
This is awesome I just got my home inspection. The small BS I will fix. This actually looks fun.
Wow looks really easy! Makes me feel like I can replace the plumbing.
Lol, hot water bidet? You will be all the ladies favorites!!
The problem with the crimp style PEX B that you have demoed here, is that all of the couplers/fittings used in that type of piping system restrict the water flow wherever they're installed.
However, unlike the PEX B made other manufacturers (e.g., Viega, Apollo, Everhot, etc...), Zurn PEX B specifically uses what are called "expansion fittings" that are designed in such a way that there is absolutely no flow restriction after they have been installed. Similarly, PEX A also uses "expansion fittings", and therefore has no water flow restriction at installed couplers/fixtures either.
Zurn PEX B is objectively superior to all crimp style PEX B (or even PEX A expansion fitting) products in pretty much every way, for the following reasons:
1. The expansion tools that are specifically designed for use with Zurn PEX B, use an expansion head design that is much less stressful on the actual PTFE pipe material, than the similar expansion tools which are used for PEX A installation. This ultimately leads to fewer failures at the pipe joints/connectors.
2. Also, unlike PEX A, which is broken down by Chlorine, and as a result is known to always leach a small amount of plastic chemicals into the water (though this leaching is admittedly slow and below govt requirements for such things), Zurn PEX B does NOT leach any chemicals into the water at all.
3. PEX B is also rated for use with hot water recirculation pumps, whereas PEX A is not.
4. Lastly, Zurn PEX B is known to have a significantly higher burst pressure at the connection joints than PEX A.
5. Unlike with other PEX B products, where the ID of the crimp couplers/fittings is "smaller" than the ID of PEX B pipe they are connected to, the ID of the Zurn PEX B expansion fittings is exactly the same as the ID of the pipe. As such, there is no water flow restriction at any of joins where fittings are installed. This leads to fewer pressure problems, and ultimately results in more a performant and reliable pipe system overall.
Great video thanks for making it!!
really good video thanks for making/sharing
Perfect timing. My pump house has a lot of sediment in the PVC and we are olanning on running pex to the house. I have never run pex so this will be a learning experience for me. At the same time I want to improve the whole house filtration but that is another story.
Good luck with the project. Hopefully all goes well!
My experience is to recommend using sticks, not coils. I think coils are exclusively for new construction and for replacement 3/4", you can't ever get them limber enough to run. They just won't cooperate. I don't know about 1/2".
How about an update on your project? And did you end up using rolls or straight pex pipe? How long a run was it?
Check your code on buried pex. Usually requires an external sleeve.
Thank you this did help so much!
Very helpful. Thank you.
Thanks for the skills
Great video. I used to spend a lot of money, repairing things around the house, now with your videos, I have learned a lot and easily I do it myself. Sadly, I have found out that I have ripped off, many times. Long time ago, I paid $500.00 to mount a flat TV in a wall. $300 to change a ceiling fun and .........
So glad you're continuing to learn, Hector. That's unfortunate that you've been charged so much for different services but it sounds like you're becoming a handyman yourself!
If water flow is low its because the barbed fittings that downsize the flow as it goes through it, so some people may want to go a size up on the pipe to compensate for the flow .
Great video for folks either way
Love the video! I just don't understand why anyone would use those crappy twist valves, the stems always eventually start to leak if they've sat for a while. They make really nice small quarter turn ball valves that are a perfect replacement and don't cost that much more honestly. For the peace of mind of not having to worry about leaking stems if you ever have to open or close them, it's so worth it.
the stem valves allow you to reduce the water flow to the fixture. this is important if you have high water pressure internally despite the use of a PRV at the main. also, stem valves can be repaired very easily and the body of the valve can basically outlive you. quarter turn valves last longer without repair, but when they go they cannot be repaired. the collection of hard mineral deposits on the ball valve, over time, can damage the ball when turning off resulting in the inability to fully shut the water off
@@jgg204 sorry, missed this response! Didn't think about the possible need to control the flow rate. Thanks for the explanation!
You can reduce the flow with a ball valve as well - they are not full on/off devices.
If you have to reduce the flow even after a PRV, then it is either adjusted wrong or defective.
I have never had a ball valve fail, or even get stiff. The well water here is very high in minerals. @@jgg204
You can reduce the flow rate with a ball valve. Every pro book/video I have seen recommends opening a twist valve completely. @@nova31337
great video!!! nice work on this
Great video, thanks. Just wondering why in the install of the T for the red line at minute 7:30 you didn't cut 5 inches to the left, making the whole install more clean, then the T will be straight, pointing to the hole, then no need to twist the red line going up?
Fantastic!! Just what I needed to know, thanks a lot for this, been wanting to switch from my pinhole-leaking copper pipes to Pex for years, your video has given me the confidence to tackle my replumbing project, just with a couple of the right tools. I can do this! 💪🏻💥👍🏻😁
Nice! Best of luck - I’m sure you’ll do great!
Bro if you can’t fix a copper pinhole then it’s best you don’t touch anything else
Great explanation! Thank you.
Question: Why didn't you remove the 3/4 coupling and ad in it's place the 3/4X3/4X1/2 tee so the application was more in align with the hole you drilled for the new supply line up through floor?
Whoever did your original plumbing job, the one with the CRIMP rings: They did not do it right. The gap between the crimp ring and the edge of the pipe is often way less than the required 1/8" amount required. I'm amazed that the local inspector did not fail them on that plumbing job that they did.
I normally recommend cinch rings for DIY because you only ha e to buy one tool rather than a $50 plus tool for each size but then after seeing that tool I’d change that position. As for red and blue pipe, it’s nice to be color coded but the reason I don’t like it is someone always runs out of one color and replaces it with the other color thinking it’s just a few feet, it’ll be fine. Then a service plumber comes in later and it makes the job take twice as long due to the confusion. If the plumber isn’t careful it could cause a flood. If they see red and then turn only the hot off and cut it but it turns out that was cold a lot of water will come out before you can turn It off. They should check regardless but many don’t.
The clamps or rings should be centered on the 2nd and 3rd rings of the fitting. The clamps are a better option IMO as they don't loosen as easily over time. Uponor PEX is what I prefer. Edit: Avoid using the brass fittings on the hot water side as they tend to corrode away internally if not the highest quality brass, i.e. too much zinc.
Yeah, you have to pay close attention when paying Brass with PEX...they offer 2 types.
A Low quality one for every day needs/cold water
And a High quality one for harsher areas/hot water.
It cost a bit more than double for better Brass option.
Personally if you wish to use Brass it's better to go all out and go for SharkBite premium connecters ( which allow you to attach any type of piping to them) since they last a lifetime and reusable.
But when first starting off the high quality plastics fitting will do the job and you can always upgrade them later. ( That is what I did when I converted my home 42 year old PVC to Pex-B)
Thanks for sharing. Interesting!
Easier than I thought.
ThanQ
At the end of the video you showing the hot water line it is leaking quite a bit. I'm surprised no one else seen that but it happens thanks for the video.
Thank you!
Is one type of clamp better than the other? Pinch vs ring.
Yeah, this video, pex b and shark bites fittings are DIY'ers friendly. Pros we use PEX A all day everyday day.
Thanks for the video. Well done as usual.
That crimp tool looks like it would be awkward to use. I strictly use the cinch clamps. It's easier to get the tool into hard to reach areas.
Have you ever tried a one-hand cinch clamp tool? I haven't tried it yet, would like to see someone use it in a real world setting.
Great points, Joe. I haven't had to one-hand it as of yet but I'm sure some people have been up against that scenario and it's got to be tricky. That might be a time when the SharkBite fittings would be appropriate. The clamps can be a bit tricky to get started for sure.
@@LRN2DIY Apollo and others make a one-handed ratchet tool for the cinch rings. All I've seen on RUclips is table-top demonstrations. Haven't seen any "real world" use on RUclips.
Good over view but i was hoping to see how you attach pex to the main copper line that comes in from the water company.
You can also use white and red for cold and hot...
What kind of crimp is good for underground? Also, what fitting do you need to go from plastic pipe to PEX? Thanks
What's the maximum bend radius on various PEX gagues?
Great video , thanks.
That vice-grip tool looks really cumbersome
Great!
And now. Time to do a video on expendable PEX B (F1960) Like Zurn and some others.
Thank you , nice video...help me a lot.
Thank you
So the last connection at 10:23 Would'nt put a lot of strain on that fitting?
How do you remove a clamp on pex if you accidentally mess it up while clamping?
You had me until you said you was plumbing a bidet. Good thing it was toward the end, good stuff
Yeah, he definitely lost me too. Right after I read his response about 5 or 6 comments above this one when a guy had asked why it was that he ran hot water to his toilet & he then explains= _"It was to add a bidet to the toilet. We weren't too keen on the thought of freezing cold water spraying our backsides. My wife and I BOTH love the bidet, actually. I was totally skeptical at first...but now I think it's pretty great"_
That just goes to prove that sometimes people are better off keeping things to themselves.
#WTFdude? #TMI #overshare #didntneed2knowthat #thanksalot4thevisualfucker
Great video thanks! Just bought a new home and are looking to add a few additional spigots. BTW I’m curious why you needed a hot water line under your toilet? :D
It was to add a bidet to the toilet. We weren't keen on the idea of freezing cold water spraying our backsides. My wife and I both love the bidet, actually. I was totally skeptical at first but it's pretty great.
Cool vid man
Do you prefer the stainless clamp or the copper ring and why? Thanks
Very good, thank you. Pinch clamp removal next. I imagine they could be cut with a pair of side cutters, eh?
They can, but it's pretty common to just cut the fixture off if you need to do that. The already squeezed pipe is usually compromised so it's best not to reuse it if you have the option.
@@LRN2DIY Understood, thanks.
Excellent instructional video. Indeed, you provided me some confidence in doing something like this. Which clamp tool do you prefer and what is the brand name of the crimping tool?
Where you got a good eyeball to make those two cuts
6:28 Does this mean no more turning off the water at the meter box at the curb? When did THAT happen? How many of those convenient handles are they putting into new houses these days, and where are they usually located? I guess that isn't the 'water main' if you have galvanized pipes branching outward in different directions under a 104 yr old pier and beam house.
I think the correct terminology is cinch clamp, not pinch clamp. Helpful video.
Nice. Thanks.
A related PEX question: We have a roughly 7 yr old home with PEX running throught the crawl space, which naturally they did not insulate. The cold and hot water PEX are running side by side stapled to the joists. What would you recommend for insulation. I have been told spray foam is not good for PEX and there is not enough space to wrap foam insulation around the individual pipes. Thanks in advance.
great video
Thanks
I learned alot about using PEX, so thank you for that. But there certainly appeared to be a serious leak around that upstairs valve fitting at the end. Looked like water pouring down that red PEX??
Yeah, I'm not sure why it appears that way in the video but I can assure you it was and is totally dry. You can see that the tile is dry but there's some sort of weird artifacting in the video that makes the red PEX look wet. Anyway, thanks for watching!
This video is hysterical
Trying to learn....why use pinch clamps on two connection but just a copper ring on another? Is it just to show how to do a different type of clamp? I assume I can use all pinch clamps?
great vid! thanks! to replace a valve, etc. can you reuse the same end of PEX without cutting the end off?
It’s not recommended but you might be able to get away with it if it’s in excellent shape. The worry is that it’s deformed slightly and causes a slow leak. Best to cut it off and extend it with a coupler.
@@LRN2DIY thanks! it would be hard to replace the short length that attaches behind a control panel (RV) so I'm gonna try and reattach to new elbow. I switched out the plastic elbow going into a filter housing with a brass elbow, so hoping this will provide a better fit. p.s. I bought the cheaper cinch tool (RV's mostly use cinch fittings) but quickly realized i needed more leverage so had to purchase the more expensive tool (with longer handles for leverage).
And the cost comparison, i somehow know pex is a lot more expensive to plumb with here in the southern hemisphere. On the other hand the the pex pipe doesnt get stolen , hence why all our brass water meters are now pvc.
i prefer the brass fittings with the pressure ring connectors you use.
aren't plastic fittings used for
pex "A" pipe ?
Nice. But how do you get that hot water supply valve off without cutting the pipe when it needs replacing. I maintain rental properties and we have to replace those from time to time. We currently have mostly galvanized and we unscrew the valves but we’re transitioning to pex. Thanks
If you have clamp rings, the rings can be removed with a screw driver without cutting the pipe. If you’re using the brass crimp rings, you’ll have to cut the pipe to remove them. In your case, I’d definitely stick with the clamp rings. They’re easier to change out later. If you have to, you can also get a coupling for PEX that allows you to extend the pipe length if you just need more PEX length.
@@LRN2DIY Thanks man!
8:40 Why is it now 3/4" instead of 1/2"? Did you switch from a plastic T connector to brass because it's a hot water line?
Great video!! I wanted to please, ask the name and price of the cutting tool and crimping tool you used for this job? I would be greatly appreciative?
You bet - all tools used, and their links, are listed in the description.
You might have mentioned turning power off if electric water heater is drained below the heater element.
Do your pex water lines go through the HVAC air return duct? Is that why you have all that air sealing shmag on the pex tubing?
Exactly, yes.
Bidet for the win
I prefer the crimps because the tools are less expensive and the crimps are much easier to remove if s mistake was made.
what's the difference between clamps and copper ring? can you add this to existing copper pipes?
They’re just two ways to accomplish the same thing. The clamp is easier to remove since you just need a screwdriver. As for moving from PEX to copper, you can use fittings to do that, particularly Sharkbite fittings. Many find PEX a lot easier to work with since it’s flexible and easy to adapt.
That earned a sub 👍
Hi, thanks for the video. What bidet are you using? I was at first going to run a hot water line. Now I'm thinking electric and an instant hot water bidet. Think the temp will be better... Thanks.
One that shoots gold pellets up your a$%.
Ok ok, but really, what does that even mean? If you're going electric, then go electric. If you're going nuclear, go nuclear.
We had our pvc water lines in barn with pex. We noticed a water pressure drop. Is this normal?
@LRN2DIY i just moved into a house. I want to run PEX to my water heater, how do I determine which line is the çold water?
Just wanted to know if I can use either or brass or plastic fittings, like 90 degree fittings. Parts are expensive and I wanna know my options if you can assist
Best place to by parts abs hose?
Either one will work, yes.