This is just what I learned in the past week. If you plan to use a lot of water for a swimming pool and / or watering a garden do this. Run a separate line from your main supply . I got 14 years and the brass fittings started to leak. Had to replace all fittings that had the main flow of water going thru them. Also I learned if a fitting looks bad on the boiler, replace it. When I grabbed hold mine , it broke off in my hand with full flow. The bottom line is I would run all separate lines ( if reasonable, ) and have no fittings hidden. They must all be available for inspection and easy to replace. Any sign of corrosion the fitting most likely will be brittle and weak. Remember I got 14 years. I build another house 38 years ago with copper pipe and it is still going strong.
The UV warning for PEX is for direct outdoor sunlight. If the light has to pass through a window in a new home you're probably okay. New Low-E windows block UV, and even dirty old soda glass in older homes blocks nearly all UVB (the harmful stuff) and most UVA.
Im new to Pex and about to do something in my utility closet out to the spicket on the front of my house. Why is it an issue to use Pex in a room with a water heater? Its not sunlight?
As with many others, I much prefer stainless Oetiker bands to copper crimp rings. Still, your cutaway section showing the crimp area at 1:00 is FANTASTIC! It really explains what needs to be done, in a single frame to anyone not familiar with PEX fittings.
@@somaday2595 Good question, but no. The thermal expansion coefficient of PEX is 5x greater than that of copper. So, as the copper fitting expands when heated, the PEX is trying to expand AWAY from it 5x faster. The crimp ring constrains it, so long as the hoop forces stretching it don't reach the copper's yield point. If the crimp ring ever exceeds its elastic limit, it is game over. And that is where stainless beats copper by far. The stainless used in Oetiker clamps is quiet soft by spring steel standards, yet it still has at least a 50% greater yield strength than copper, which allows the "ear" to be formed by cinching. That ear acts as a spring, maintaining near constant hoop tension across a varying range of circumferences, making the stainless clamp kind of impervious to crimper calibration issues that haunt the crimp system. Still, when applied correctly, all of these systems are known to hold beyond the burst strength of the PEX, making arguments about what's best kind of moot.
@@robertlitman2661 Yield strength of the ring material was not in question but rather, the ring compression force on the PE. If the SS expands less than the Cu, the compression force would be stronger with the SS ring. Within a few thermal cycles, the seal with the SS when cold would be a less tight than the Cu ring. The PE will not creep back once it has flowed under compression of the ring.
@@somaday2595 That's why we use PEX and not plain PE. The cross linking is what stops creep and makes the whole system work. That creep is also why PE icemaker lines are a time-bomb, and I have concerns that PERT will turn into a PB fiasco eventually.
The degree to which UV has to be avoided was a surprise. In that vein I’d point out that if windows in basements are a risk then fluorescent lights in basements are an issue. I used to use fluorescent lights as my UV source for exposing photoresist.
Great advice about crimping and removing pex fittings. The tools used for pex fittings are expensive, but worth every dollar spent. I bought the crimping tool for both 1/2" and 3/4" fittings. A friend has the crimping tool with 4 crimping heads, 3/8" 1/2", 3/4" & 1". I would never use anything but a crimping tool. I definitely recommend the tool for removing the crimp ring. This video didn't show how many times he cut the ring. It doesn't pop off that easy with only one cut. Sometimes it will take 2 or 3 cuts around the ring before it pops off. I just make 2 cuts and pull it off with pliers. Everyone who uses pex fittings know how expensive they can be, so you will save as many as you can. I always try to use crimp fittings. I only use push fittings when I cana't get the crimping tool around the pipe. I don't like using push fittings inside walls.
If both the go and the no fit snug then you are in the quantum realm, PEX doesn't work properly in the quantum realm, make sure you are not bouncing between universes before doing PEX
This is why i went with the stainless cinch rings. Need much less room to cinch, you can see the ring before and during installation, one cincher does all sized rings and the cinching tool costs 1/2 the price of the copper crimp tool.
Same here. As a home diy’er I didn’t want to invest so much on crimping tools that I’ll seldom use when a single chinch tool will do both 1/2” and 3”4” and can access areas that the crimping tool can’t! Plus I can use a chinch tool with one hand. Cost, access, one handed use...all positives for chinching over crimping.
You can also cut off the cinch clamps with much less chance of damaging the fitting. Most of the time, you can use pliers to pull the ring side away from the locking teeth, and it will pop open. However, I generally don't reuse fittings. It's not worth the risk when they only cost $1-$2 each, even for the brass ones.
I use the stainless steel cinch rings, not the copper crimp rings. About three times the price but I like the extra durability they provide. And the cinch tool auto releases when you have reached the proper point.
I have been wanting to start a plumbing apprenticeship so I applied at the local plumbing supply store. It's been pretty good because I get to deliver gear to plumbers on the job and passively experience the sorts of work and material used in the field. I'm also trying to build some rapport with the plumbers in the hope that one of them ask me if I want to apprentice under them. I think we've had at least 3 people leave over the years to become plumbers through our customers, so I hope it goes well. In saying all that, It's nice to watch these videos to get a bit more background into these products that I'm dealing with with on a daily basis, but never sure of their application, etc. So cheers
I use the S.S. Ratcheting rings when in a tight spot; the crimping tool is smaller than the ring compression tool, shown in the video, and just easier to navigate in tighter spots.
When re-plumbing short runs of copper, like wall plumbing behind showers, do you usually stick with the same dimension of PEX B as the copper pipe? That is, when replacing 1/2” copper pipe, do you use 1/2” PEX B pipe? Or do you upsize to 3/4” PEX B to better match the inner diameters? I’ve seen different views on whether there is much of a difference between the two approaches on short pipe runs, but was wondering if you’ve done both and have any opinion. Great video and great channel!
If you are starting at the water supply and working towards fixtures,avoid going from smaller to bigger. So if you are at the shower and working towards your water supply source,it should only get bigger and bigger pipe diameter as you work towards the main water shut off valve. If not not only can you have issues with water pressure,but you could end up getting noisy pipes when water is running. I seen a house where anytime you used the bathroom sink,the whole house had a loud squealing sound. All because they had a small diameter,large diameter and small again. Hope this helps with what you were asking.
thanks for the tip about the sunlight, I hadn't realized that. I plan on moving my spigot in the back of the house to the driveway some 30' away and was planning to just attach the pex to the exisiting spigot and put a new spigot at the end where I want the control. Being outside I hadn't considered the sunlight. I think I will take the old hose that used to do the job (but is now leaking due to constant water pressure,) and slit it down the house and use it to wrap/cover the pex to keep the sunlight out.
Life saver!! I just started my construction company!!! Thank you so much for this video !!! I feel a lot more confident now and will be definitely be buying the pex clamp 🙌✌️😁💯💯💯❤️✌️😁💯💯💯
Thanks to the video, I just realized that my PEX plumbing lines are at risk of UV exposure and I'll need to shield the lines with pipe insulation. Thanks for the tip.
All great points. Ring breakers can score the pex enough to slide it off if you simply "cut" where the ring would be in a couple different spots. Voila - slides right off.
As a non plumber, all I took away from this was that pex isn't u.v radiant. You can't cut the crimps with the grinder, just use the torch to remove the pex
There are also several fitting manufacturers that have depth-gauges built in to the fittings to help you crimp properly. Waterline (in Canada) and Sharkbite poly fittings have these. I also used the poly ones exclusively because of how hard my water is.
IMHO, after using crimp and expansion on several HVAC installations, crimp definitely isn't bad but I prefer expansion which requires Pex-A. It's faster, easier and if done correctly no need to get the expansion tool in to tight spaces. It is expensive though.
I don't think it's any more expensive than any other pex. Maybe the tool, but you can get an Apollo Expansion tool for 1/2" and 3/4" for under $150. I believe a power tool is under $300.
@@ericlewandowskivlogs Good point. I was only considering the Milwaukee 1/2" to 1" power expander I used for HVAC. The only thing I didn't like about working with PEX was that 1" and bigger roles of PEX can be a real pain to straight, especially in the winter .
Some copper rings have a plastic ‘shoulder’ on one end, allowing you to slide the ring to the correct distance and seat it all the way ‘home’, about a few millimetres from the end of the PEX
Great tips!! I've been meaning to cover an exposed pipe leading to my my hose bib outside to protect it from cold. I didn't know about the sunlight issue. Poor job by the plumber who left it like that when he repiped my whole house. He did other subpar things I'm realizing to include trying to charge me triple the cost. 🤨
another great video... the problem is I think pex sounds too easy to mess up with... I thought it was supposed to be the "miracle" plumbing that held up to all sorts of weather and conditions
got a question hopefully you can answer. Leaking flapper. Replaced (tried 2 different ones). Still leaks. I adjusted the chain setting to just about everything possible from fairly tight to really loose. From what I can tell the flush handle pulls the flapper sideways sometimes (not always). When it goes sideways it doesn't fully re-seat, and then I get "ghost flushes" once in a while. This is the first time I've had this problem - replaced flappers several times previously.
I hate that the crimped fittings always have such a small internal diameter to them, the flow of water is dramatically reduced in them over soldered copper fittings. So I went to 'EXPANDED' PEX fittings, instead of 'Crimped' PEX fittings. This is usually referred to as 'UPONOR' fittings. I bought the cheaper $150 Cold-X expander tool from Home Hardware for all of my fittings.
We would always up size the pex in certain homes. Instead of 3/4" trunks like we would do in copper, we would do a 1" trunk, with 3/4" fixture branches. But now, I run uponor for the reasons you mentioned. I prefer the uponor now. I got mechanical Apollo Expansion tool at Menards for about the same price
I remember (not that fondly) re-piping my hot water lines with red 3/4" Pex the length of the house in 2006. I liked how flexible the tubing was so things which didn't line up perfectly still worked. Those large crimping pliers were a bear to get into certain areas though. They crimped in a hex shape rather than the round you show. Pluses and minuses for sure vs copper.
as usual , always the best vids in plumbing !! you da man ! enjoy your summah ! Cheers from Maine ! Ps.. looking fwd to more FUTURE vids on the expansion type PEX !
You can use the crimp ring breaker to press a bunch of cuts into the stub of cut pex and work around it 360 degrees then it should pull off with your hand. That’s how I do it. Quick and no extra tools or heating needed.
The kink part was very informative and the direct sunlight part I never knew. Great video, I have seen those stub out and never knew what they were for.
I've learned a lot from your videos, thank you. I have a crimping tool for PEX as this was the cheapest tool for a DIYer who needed to do a fast repair. But what is better, Crimping or clamping PEX pipes, and is brass or poly PEX connections better? I'm preparing to do a bathroom makeover and was going to use copper because I have all the tools and more experience sweating than crimping but PEX seems to be a lot faster.
First off, thank you so much. I prefer crimping in general, never had any experience with the SS cinch rings as you mentioned, but a lot of people love them so I guess it's all up to you. As for plastic of brass, I don't have a preference, as long as the brass fittings are DRZ (dezinc resistant) you are good to go!
I had to redo some plumbing for my bathroom renos and planned on reusing the brass fittings. They had patches of corrosion on them, inside and out. Still trying to figure how the corrosion spots started on the outside of them when the water isn’t supposed to be there. Not some of them, all of them. My house is only 20 years old. I opted for the stainless cinch rings and plastic fittings. The cinch rings are easier to install, you can see them while you’re cinching them to make sure they’re in the right place and straight and the cinching tool needs far less room to use.
Prices may have changed but for the small fittings there wasn't much of a difference (bought online), although I used brass because the area had a chance to freeze. For bigger fittings like manifolds it can be a much bigger. For matching old pipe to new, first making certain one has all the needed fittings. Attach and tighten those first before attaching PEX since PEX isn't suppose to like twisting action once crimped.
@2:41 What separates amateurs 1. If go fits and no go doesn't then properly calibrated (makes sense) 2. If go doesn't fit, but no go does then it means ring is over crimped and preload is too much and lowered) 3. If go doesn't fit then preload and (no go doesn't ) needs to be increased (makes sense) The go ring is bigger than the no-go ring (very strange) that tool is testing for over crimp more than under crimp
When properly calibrated go fits and no go doesn't. That's pretty much where the naming convention came from. The goal is to have go fit and no go not, anything else fails the test and requires calibration.
Facinating to watch plumbing from other places of the world. Here in scandinavia we use machines to crimp the coupling. I guess you have that too? Haven't seen all your videos yet. Nice videos!
The round rings are a pain in the A we use the clintch clamps that work so much better we have done hundreds of jobe and not one leak and the clamps are stainless never rust
Thank you so much for your assistance... I can always see everything i did wrong in hindsight after many failed attempts This time success with out too many attempts!
One day you’ll need to pull some plumbing lines to replace old corroded pipes in a second story bathroom. I have an upcoming project where PEX is the obvious choice due to constraints on where I’ll be able to pen up the walls.
I worked for 25 years installing and repairing alarm systems! I don't have to replace nasty toilet but ran wires in some of the same places you ran pipes! I did it in Florida. Not much cold weather but mud under homes and attic can get so hot I had trouble breathing! I don't want your job my was bad enough!
My question and my love for your videos. Is Pex C tubing compatible with Pex B tubing, and if so, how do you connect them? I ca not seem to find a straight answer anywhere and I need to make some repairs and have Pex C tubing from helping put a couple of neighbors. I myself hsve Pex B in my house, as do almost everybody in Walstonburg, NC. I'm subscribed and have watched most of your videos, especially your soldering videos, as well the people i help out so they know in advance what we're going to be dealing with. I strongly suggest they subscribe to learn things like making the clean looking copper pipe, and the caulk type cartridge protectors that keep them from drying out, etc. Best wishe and best of luck to you and yours!Thank you very much!
2 big mistakes ..1: using copper crimp rings; they're cheap, malleable and don't hold up to movement like stainless steel crimp rings do. Spend the money and do a professional job. 2: using brass fittings; it may seem brass would be better but trust me it's not! The brass fittings are ultra low copper (as opposed to the old "red brass" fittings) and will fail through corrosion in as little as 2 years. I hate to say it but plastic is better.
Watching this video again. First mistake is using crimp vs clamp. Clamp appears to be the better way to go. Pretty sold on ProPEX these days personally so a non issue.
Hi. I love your videos and have learned a lot. Can you make a video on how to replace a piece of underground toilet pipe where the other ends are still in the ground and impossible to excavate?
Very important that you emphasized that pex is not UV resistant. I was considering using it for an outdoor solar collector. Now I know to insulate it from sunlight.
Indeed! I've watched other videos which enumerated the pros & cons of PEX, but none of them mentioned anything about UV resistance. I wonder if the manufacturers can do something to make it UV resistant.
The crimp ring moving from where you want it to be crimped, because the crimping tool moves it while trying to get it in place, is a problem. I have been putting blue tape on it. That trick works most of the time, but it can and will still move sometimes. I like pre crimping the ring with the pliers. Thanks, I will do that next time.
Awesome content, thanks! I actually haven't seen many videos cover two questions I have about converting from copper to PEX-B. 1. When converting (let's say from 1/2" copper) should you upsize the PEX-B pipe to compensate for the reduced ID on connectors? 2. What is the best method to stub out? I see the two options are to get the PEX - copper stub-out, or get the wall support for a direct PEX stub-out. I assume it is always best to support the stub-out to prevent users from accidentally breaking the pipe when using too much force on an angle stop.
1) it really depends on how many fixtures you have and how many you plan on adding in the future, but normally 1/2" does the job. 2) Yes, copper stubouts are the way to go and you can use wood blocking with copper u-clips to secure them in place 🙏
@@Got2Learn Thanks for your wonderful video! I'm planning to add a sink, a toilet, a shower room and a washer in the basement. All of these are very close to existing 1/2 copper pipes. Is it okay (by the building code) to directly connect all of them to the 1/2 copper pipes (assuming all these fixtures generally won't be used at the same time)? Would be required by the code to upsize to 3/4 PEX-B pipes before connecting each fixture? Thanks.
So, we're building a new house and the new plumbing is all PEX. Just curious, how does it compare to copper which is what we have in our current house?
They both have their pros and cons, I personally prefer PEX for many reasons. I made a video on this subject last year, here's the link if you would like to watch it: ruclips.net/video/PIdPovddqy4/видео.html
Are you talking about shark bite fittings? If so, one day you’re probably going to wish you hadn’t done that. They’re known to leak after a while. Sometimes after a few months, sometimes a few years down the road. Check out Roger Wakefield’s channel. He’s talked about it a lot and even did some tests to the point of failure. It doesn’t take much pressure to pop off a shark bite whereas the crimp fittings don’t come apart.
Also check out PE-RT piping, and compare it to expansion-compatible Pex A or Zurn Pex B. PE-RT is recyclable, and allegedly stands up to chlorine/chloramine in the water.
I have to extend some toilet supply lines. Should I use a ring cutter so I don't need to cut off the old fitting and possibly not have a long enough stub to put on a new, longer supply line?
I use the other type of crimp rings that you squeeze and they balloon at the top. I find it easier to use. Btw, you are a great plumber. I am an amateur, but I can still tell that you are amazing at your occupation.
@@Got2Learn one of my concerns about using Pex is understanding how and where to find the fittings and sizing to match my faucet, toilet and shower. Do I take the fixtures with me to a plumbing shop ??
Do you have special faucets? If you got them at the hardware store they are most likely standard (3/8") connections, so you'll be installing Pex-A shutt-off valve right before your faucet and it'll connect like it would with soldered or crimped valves, no worries.
@@Got2Learn thanks for the reply ! your vids are very informative/ inspirational. After having a heating contractor in my house for a week I finally soldered my own iso valve for some hot water. They liked the cinch b/c the tool is smaller and easier to remove the cinch fittings.
What I learned: I was p,awning to update the plumbing on my dock that's is done with PVC. I wasn't aware how sun sensitive it is, so I guess I,ll have to redo it in PVC, which isn't impervious to sun either.
Had to replumb my entire house myself 14 years ago in pex due to poor local contractor work. This is by far the best advice anyone can give.
🖖🖖🖖
Why did you have to do it in pex rather than copper?
@@integr8er66 cheaper
OMG, PEX tubing in my basement has been exposed to light for ten years… is it sensitive to DEL?
Poor contractor work, or the cheapest price? 😂
This is just what I learned in the past week. If you plan to use a lot of water for a swimming pool and / or watering a garden do this. Run a separate line from your main supply . I got 14 years and the brass fittings started to leak. Had to replace all fittings that had the main flow of water going thru them. Also I learned if a fitting looks bad on the boiler, replace it. When I grabbed hold mine , it broke off in my hand with full flow. The bottom line is I would run all separate lines ( if reasonable, ) and have no fittings hidden. They must all be available for inspection and easy to replace. Any sign of corrosion the fitting most likely will be brittle and weak. Remember I got 14 years. I build another house 38 years ago with copper pipe and it is still going strong.
Normally I hate when a channel panders for "likes" but "not hitting the like button will make your pipes leak" is too damn funny. LIKE!
Hahahaha IT WORKED!!!! Thanks Dash!!!!!!!
Me too😂✌️
The UV warning for PEX is for direct outdoor sunlight. If the light has to pass through a window in a new home you're probably okay. New Low-E windows block UV, and even dirty old soda glass in older homes blocks nearly all UVB (the harmful stuff) and most UVA.
Yep. In the southwest and we stub out with pex for all fixtures and in 15 years have never had a single problem.
Im new to Pex and about to do something in my utility closet out to the spicket on the front of my house. Why is it an issue to use Pex in a room with a water heater? Its not sunlight?
That's because the home owner doesn't know you piped the place and how to get in touch with you. Copper is king on stubs. @@spacecruisers
As with many others, I much prefer stainless Oetiker bands to copper crimp rings. Still, your cutaway section showing the crimp area at 1:00 is FANTASTIC! It really explains what needs to be done, in a single frame to anyone not familiar with PEX fittings.
🤗🤗🤗
But if the fitting is copper, would it not be best to have a crimp ring having the same thermal expansion coefficient?
@@somaday2595 Good question, but no. The thermal expansion coefficient of PEX is 5x greater than that of copper. So, as the copper fitting expands when heated, the PEX is trying to expand AWAY from it 5x faster. The crimp ring constrains it, so long as the hoop forces stretching it don't reach the copper's yield point. If the crimp ring ever exceeds its elastic limit, it is game over. And that is where stainless beats copper by far. The stainless used in Oetiker clamps is quiet soft by spring steel standards, yet it still has at least a 50% greater yield strength than copper, which allows the "ear" to be formed by cinching. That ear acts as a spring, maintaining near constant hoop tension across a varying range of circumferences, making the stainless clamp kind of impervious to crimper calibration issues that haunt the crimp system.
Still, when applied correctly, all of these systems are known to hold beyond the burst strength of the PEX, making arguments about what's best kind of moot.
@@robertlitman2661 Yield strength of the ring material was not in question but rather, the ring compression force on the PE. If the SS expands less than the Cu, the compression force would be stronger with the SS ring. Within a few thermal cycles, the seal with the SS when cold would be a less tight than the Cu ring. The PE will not creep back once it has flowed under compression of the ring.
@@somaday2595 That's why we use PEX and not plain PE. The cross linking is what stops creep and makes the whole system work. That creep is also why PE icemaker lines are a time-bomb, and I have concerns that PERT will turn into a PB fiasco eventually.
The degree to which UV has to be avoided was a surprise. In that vein I’d point out that if windows in basements are a risk then fluorescent lights in basements are an issue. I used to use fluorescent lights as my UV source for exposing photoresist.
Great advice about crimping and removing pex fittings. The tools used for pex fittings are expensive, but worth every dollar spent. I bought the crimping tool for both 1/2" and 3/4" fittings. A friend has the crimping tool with 4 crimping heads, 3/8" 1/2", 3/4" & 1". I would never use anything but a crimping tool. I definitely recommend the tool for removing the crimp ring. This video didn't show how many times he cut the ring. It doesn't pop off that easy with only one cut. Sometimes it will take 2 or 3 cuts around the ring before it pops off. I just make 2 cuts and pull it off with pliers. Everyone who uses pex fittings know how expensive they can be, so you will save as many as you can.
I always try to use crimp fittings. I only use push fittings when I cana't get the crimping tool around the pipe. I don't like using push fittings inside walls.
If both the go and the no fit snug then you are in the quantum realm, PEX doesn't work properly in the quantum realm, make sure you are not bouncing between universes before doing PEX
😂😂😂
This is why i went with the stainless cinch rings. Need much less room to cinch, you can see the ring before and during installation, one cincher does all sized rings and the cinching tool costs 1/2 the price of the copper crimp tool.
Same here. As a home diy’er I didn’t want to invest so much on crimping tools that I’ll seldom use when a single chinch tool will do both 1/2” and 3”4” and can access areas that the crimping tool can’t! Plus I can use a chinch tool with one hand. Cost, access, one handed use...all positives for chinching over crimping.
You can also cut off the cinch clamps with much less chance of damaging the fitting. Most of the time, you can use pliers to pull the ring side away from the locking teeth, and it will pop open. However, I generally don't reuse fittings. It's not worth the risk when they only cost $1-$2 each, even for the brass ones.
I use the stainless steel cinch rings, not the copper crimp rings. About three times the price but I like the extra durability they provide. And the cinch tool auto releases when you have reached the proper point.
That's all I use these days.
You also save time not needing to check with a gauge.
I rarely subscribe to channels but you’re straightforward, no bullshit dialogue approach was informative and refreshing. Subscribed👍🇺🇸
Niceeee, thanks!!!! 💎💎💎
I have been wanting to start a plumbing apprenticeship so I applied at the local plumbing supply store. It's been pretty good because I get to deliver gear to plumbers on the job and passively experience the sorts of work and material used in the field. I'm also trying to build some rapport with the plumbers in the hope that one of them ask me if I want to apprentice under them. I think we've had at least 3 people leave over the years to become plumbers through our customers, so I hope it goes well. In saying all that, It's nice to watch these videos to get a bit more background into these products that I'm dealing with with on a daily basis, but never sure of their application, etc. So cheers
But I thought there's a shortage of labor lol. That's what all these companies say
I use the S.S. Ratcheting rings when in a tight spot; the crimping tool is smaller than the ring compression tool, shown in the video, and just easier to navigate in tighter spots.
Yes.... I have fond memories of ratchetting crimpers for RF coaxial cables - Suhner, Mmmmmmm... :-)
I once bought the wrong tool, thanks to this article I was able to avoid the mistake.
Got2Learn has the best plumbing videos I've found on youtube; brilliant visuals and expert advice. Thank you 😁
Thank you soooo much Mark!!
As an arch, I appreciate this kind of content. Now I know more about one of the products we use in the field
I love PEX. Just finished a water damage job over $40k from PEX. Rat chewed through it. Keep using it!!!
Get rid of the rats!!
Try using conduct that's what recommend for in ground pex that's been chew into by moles or gofhers..pvc pipe for conduct
Also, don’t run Pex within 5ft of a Fluorescent light due to UV exposure.
When re-plumbing short runs of copper, like wall plumbing behind showers, do you usually stick with the same dimension of PEX B as the copper pipe? That is, when replacing 1/2” copper pipe, do you use 1/2” PEX B pipe? Or do you upsize to 3/4” PEX B to better match the inner diameters? I’ve seen different views on whether there is much of a difference between the two approaches on short pipe runs, but was wondering if you’ve done both and have any opinion. Great video and great channel!
If you are starting at the water supply and working towards fixtures,avoid going from smaller to bigger. So if you are at the shower and working towards your water supply source,it should only get bigger and bigger pipe diameter as you work towards the main water shut off valve. If not not only can you have issues with water pressure,but you could end up getting noisy pipes when water is running. I seen a house where anytime you used the bathroom sink,the whole house had a loud squealing sound. All because they had a small diameter,large diameter and small again. Hope this helps with what you were asking.
thanks for the tip about the sunlight, I hadn't realized that. I plan on moving my spigot in the back of the house to the driveway some 30' away and was planning to just attach the pex to the exisiting spigot and put a new spigot at the end where I want the control. Being outside I hadn't considered the sunlight. I think I will take the old hose that used to do the job (but is now leaking due to constant water pressure,) and slit it down the house and use it to wrap/cover the pex to keep the sunlight out.
You should use stainless steel locking clamps. They will not corrode. The crimpers are easier to use as well. 🙂
I had no idea that pex pipe would go bad by being exposed to sunlight.....Great video thanks!!!!
Yeah, it degrades and can eventually leak 👌
Life saver!! I just started my construction company!!! Thank you so much for this video !!! I feel a lot more confident now and will be definitely be buying the pex clamp 🙌✌️😁💯💯💯❤️✌️😁💯💯💯
🤜🤛😎😎😎
Thanks to the video, I just realized that my PEX plumbing lines are at risk of UV exposure and I'll need to shield the lines with pipe insulation. Thanks for the tip.
All great points. Ring breakers can score the pex enough to slide it off if you simply "cut" where the ring would be in a couple different spots.
Voila - slides right off.
I use poly fitting, not brass, because of low ph of the water.. Also I use SS clamp rings, not copper rings, as I found they will leak over time
Until they fail because of the uneven tension on the rings.
As a non plumber, all I took away from this was that pex isn't u.v radiant.
You can't cut the crimps with the grinder, just use the torch to remove the pex
There are also several fitting manufacturers that have depth-gauges built in to the fittings to help you crimp properly. Waterline (in Canada) and Sharkbite poly fittings have these. I also used the poly ones exclusively because of how hard my water is.
Love your channel. I always watch these videos after I watch a few how-to's when learning a new DIY skill. Always saves me some grief.
IMHO, after using crimp and expansion on several HVAC installations, crimp definitely isn't bad but I prefer expansion which requires Pex-A. It's faster, easier and if done correctly no need to get the expansion tool in to tight spaces. It is expensive though.
I don't think it's any more expensive than any other pex. Maybe the tool, but you can get an Apollo Expansion tool for 1/2" and 3/4" for under $150. I believe a power tool is under $300.
@@ericlewandowskivlogs Good point. I was only considering the Milwaukee 1/2" to 1" power expander I used for HVAC. The only thing I didn't like about working with PEX was that 1" and bigger roles of PEX can be a real pain to straight, especially in the winter .
Dude, your style of presentation is *great*!
Plumbing was never this much fun, who knew I'd even be watching this 🙂
Keep up the great work!
Thank you so much Roger, I try hard to make them entertaining and informative at the same time :)
Some copper rings have a plastic ‘shoulder’ on one end, allowing you to slide the ring to the correct distance and seat it all the way ‘home’, about a few millimetres from the end of the PEX
Great tips!! I've been meaning to cover an exposed pipe leading to my my hose bib outside to protect it from cold. I didn't know about the sunlight issue. Poor job by the plumber who left it like that when he repiped my whole house. He did other subpar things I'm realizing to include trying to charge me triple the cost. 🤨
another great video... the problem is I think pex sounds too easy to mess up with... I thought it was supposed to be the "miracle" plumbing that held up to all sorts of weather and conditions
got a question hopefully you can answer. Leaking flapper. Replaced (tried 2 different ones). Still leaks. I adjusted the chain setting to just about everything possible from fairly tight to really loose. From what I can tell the flush handle pulls the flapper sideways sometimes (not always). When it goes sideways it doesn't fully re-seat, and then I get "ghost flushes" once in a while. This is the first time I've had this problem - replaced flappers several times previously.
Might need to Macgyver something.
@@WJHandyDad My old flapper had a mini-weight above it.
Had it happen to me today, so, I soaked my helper for crimping the ring in the wrong spot, not sure if he learned anything, but I felt better. ;)
What's weird is this just now recommended. I watched it this morning (10 hours ago).
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I hate that the crimped fittings always have such a small internal diameter to them, the flow of water is dramatically reduced in them over soldered copper fittings. So I went to 'EXPANDED' PEX fittings, instead of 'Crimped' PEX fittings. This is usually referred to as 'UPONOR' fittings. I bought the cheaper $150 Cold-X expander tool from Home Hardware for all of my fittings.
We would always up size the pex in certain homes. Instead of 3/4" trunks like we would do in copper, we would do a 1" trunk, with 3/4" fixture branches.
But now, I run uponor for the reasons you mentioned. I prefer the uponor now. I got mechanical Apollo Expansion tool at Menards for about the same price
I remember (not that fondly) re-piping my hot water lines with red 3/4" Pex the length of the house in 2006. I liked how flexible the tubing was so things which didn't line up perfectly still worked. Those large crimping pliers were a bear to get into certain areas though. They crimped in a hex shape rather than the round you show. Pluses and minuses for sure vs copper.
I think I learned that the plumbers that I have Competition here were im at is doing it Wrong. So thank you.
as usual , always the best vids in plumbing !! you da man ! enjoy your summah ! Cheers from Maine ! Ps.. looking fwd to more FUTURE vids on the expansion type PEX !
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You can use the crimp ring breaker to press a bunch of cuts into the stub of cut pex and work around it 360 degrees then it should pull off with your hand. That’s how I do it. Quick and no extra tools or heating needed.
Your voice makes me feel safe
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Done a lot of PEX but did not know your tips. Thanks and I'll buy a go-no go tool.
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just use Pex-A (Uponor) and the problems of tight areas are a non issue. Thank you for the information, this is very helpful for PEX-B installs.
Good advise! 🙏
What about pex a sharkbite
This video was really useful
I didn’t even know what that was until now thanks man
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My biggest issue with pex (b i guess it is) is how restrictive the fittings are.
For tight areas I cut one handle of my crimper half off. Very difficult to use now but i can get those tight places better.
The kink part was very informative and the direct sunlight part I never knew. Great video, I have seen those stub out and never knew what they were for.
I've learned a lot from your videos, thank you. I have a crimping tool for PEX as this was the cheapest tool for a DIYer who needed to do a fast repair. But what is better, Crimping or clamping PEX pipes, and is brass or poly PEX connections better? I'm preparing to do a bathroom makeover and was going to use copper because I have all the tools and more experience sweating than crimping but PEX seems to be a lot faster.
First off, thank you so much. I prefer crimping in general, never had any experience with the SS cinch rings as you mentioned, but a lot of people love them so I guess it's all up to you. As for plastic of brass, I don't have a preference, as long as the brass fittings are DRZ (dezinc resistant) you are good to go!
I had to redo some plumbing for my bathroom renos and planned on reusing the brass fittings. They had patches of corrosion on them, inside and out. Still trying to figure how the corrosion spots started on the outside of them when the water isn’t supposed to be there. Not some of them, all of them. My house is only 20 years old.
I opted for the stainless cinch rings and plastic fittings. The cinch rings are easier to install, you can see them while you’re cinching them to make sure they’re in the right place and straight and the cinching tool needs far less room to use.
Prices may have changed but for the small fittings there wasn't much of a difference (bought online), although I used brass because the area had a chance to freeze. For bigger fittings like manifolds it can be a much bigger. For matching old pipe to new, first making certain one has all the needed fittings. Attach and tighten those first before attaching PEX since PEX isn't suppose to like twisting action once crimped.
@2:41 What separates amateurs
1. If go fits and no go doesn't then properly calibrated (makes sense)
2. If go doesn't fit, but no go does then it means ring is over crimped and preload is too much and lowered)
3. If go doesn't fit then preload and (no go doesn't ) needs to be increased (makes sense)
The go ring is bigger than the no-go ring (very strange) that tool is testing for over crimp more than under crimp
When properly calibrated go fits and no go doesn't. That's pretty much where the naming convention came from. The goal is to have go fit and no go not, anything else fails the test and requires calibration.
@@CraigSanders04 thanks!
Good take on everything you said, you just repeated everything my instructor told us in my plumbing class using all types of materials.
It’s why I only use Uponor Products with the battery operated Milwaukee crimping tool.
Facinating to watch plumbing from other places of the world. Here in scandinavia we use machines to crimp the coupling. I guess you have that too? Haven't seen all your videos yet.
Nice videos!
i like the cut outs you have for the piece used in plumbing, give me a better idea on what i need thing to be like. thanks for another helpful video.
The round rings are a pain in the A we use the clintch clamps that work so much better we have done hundreds of jobe and not one leak and the clamps are stainless never rust
Thank you so much for your assistance...
I can always see everything i did wrong in hindsight after many failed attempts
This time success with out too many attempts!
Great video! Straight to the point and concise. You can’t fake professional.
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I rather stick to copper. I don't feel like investing in more tools. In any case, thanks for providing the info.
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i enjoy sweating but the investment in pex tools is far less than the cost of time and material when using copper.
One day you’ll need to pull some plumbing lines to replace old corroded pipes in a second story bathroom. I have an upcoming project where PEX is the obvious choice due to constraints on where I’ll be able to pen up the walls.
I agree. However, I have the power tool for Uponor. Some people insist. It is FAST. Cheating, somehow. Huh?
@@stephenholland6328 There is always soft copper piping.
I worked for 25 years installing and repairing alarm systems! I don't have to replace nasty toilet but ran wires in some of the same places you ran pipes! I did it in Florida. Not much cold weather but mud under homes and attic can get so hot I had trouble breathing! I don't want your job my was bad enough!
Great advice and good trick about using the handle on the channel locks to pre-crimp
Uponor tip. Let the ring set for a out 20 minutes before turning the water back on. I should make plumbing video🤔
9qg
My question and my love for your videos.
Is Pex C tubing compatible with Pex B tubing, and if so, how do you connect them? I ca not seem to find a straight answer anywhere and I need to make some repairs and have Pex C tubing from helping put a couple of neighbors. I myself hsve Pex B in my house, as do almost everybody in Walstonburg, NC.
I'm subscribed and have watched most of your videos, especially your soldering videos, as well the people i help out so they know in advance what we're going to be dealing with. I strongly suggest they subscribe to learn things like making the clean looking copper pipe, and the caulk type cartridge protectors that keep them from drying out, etc. Best wishe and best of luck to you and yours!Thank you very much!
2 big mistakes ..1: using copper crimp rings; they're cheap, malleable and don't hold up to movement like stainless steel crimp rings do. Spend the money and do a professional job.
2: using brass fittings; it may seem brass would be better but trust me it's not! The brass fittings are ultra low copper (as opposed to the old "red brass" fittings) and will fail through corrosion in as little as 2 years. I hate to say it but plastic is better.
Good job, exactly what I needed to know and none of what I didn’t! Cheers
Glad it helped!!
Watching this video again. First mistake is using crimp vs clamp. Clamp appears to be the better way to go. Pretty sold on ProPEX these days personally so a non issue.
Never used this type of pex. My favorite of the types I've used is uponor, though the 1/2" 90 shortage at the moment is not fun.
WTF?! There's a 90 bracket shortage too?
@@nomansarker5556 yeah, according to the uponor company, their factory that makes them had a covid outbreak. Causing the shortage.
Am learning something new from your videos every time thanks
Glad to help L J, thanks!
Iwiss seems to make good tools all around, for electronics I have some and have had good luck with them. (The tool says it is made by iwiss)
Glad I hit that like button, I don't need leaky pipes!
Well done!!!
I used a heat gun on my pex to defrost them during the Christmas freeze. Was that bad / does that weaken it / should I replace those lines?
Was it pex-a or b?
can't say enough great things about how much I enjoy this awesome channel
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Hi. I love your videos and have learned a lot. Can you make a video on how to replace a piece of underground toilet pipe where the other ends are still in the ground and impossible to excavate?
Have you tried using a pressure washer? ruclips.net/video/-MQNmJwrwLY/видео.html
Very important that you emphasized that pex is not UV resistant. I was considering using it for an outdoor solar collector. Now I know to insulate it from sunlight.
100%
Indeed! I've watched other videos which enumerated the pros & cons of PEX, but none of them mentioned anything about UV resistance. I wonder if the manufacturers can do something to make it UV resistant.
The crimp ring moving from where you want it to be crimped, because the crimping tool moves it while trying to get it in place, is a problem. I have been putting blue tape on it. That trick works most of the time, but it can and will still move sometimes. I like pre crimping the ring with the pliers. Thanks, I will do that next time.
Awesome content, thanks! I actually haven't seen many videos cover two questions I have about converting from copper to PEX-B.
1. When converting (let's say from 1/2" copper) should you upsize the PEX-B pipe to compensate for the reduced ID on connectors?
2. What is the best method to stub out? I see the two options are to get the PEX - copper stub-out, or get the wall support for a direct PEX stub-out. I assume it is always best to support the stub-out to prevent users from accidentally breaking the pipe when using too much force on an angle stop.
1) it really depends on how many fixtures you have and how many you plan on adding in the future, but normally 1/2" does the job.
2) Yes, copper stubouts are the way to go and you can use wood blocking with copper u-clips to secure them in place 🙏
@@Got2Learn Thanks for your wonderful video! I'm planning to add a sink, a toilet, a shower room and a washer in the basement. All of these are very close to existing 1/2 copper pipes. Is it okay (by the building code) to directly connect all of them to the 1/2 copper pipes (assuming all these fixtures generally won't be used at the same time)? Would be required by the code to upsize to 3/4 PEX-B pipes before connecting each fixture? Thanks.
@@liangmaew it's better if you can connect each fixture to a 3/4" pipe, but 1/2" will thanks, thanks Liang!!!
@@Got2Learn Thanks a lot for your quick reply!
So, we're building a new house and the new plumbing is all PEX. Just curious, how does it compare to copper which is what we have in our current house?
They both have their pros and cons, I personally prefer PEX for many reasons. I made a video on this subject last year, here's the link if you would like to watch it: ruclips.net/video/PIdPovddqy4/видео.html
@@Got2Learn Awesome. Very informative. Thanks for all you do, that gives me the piece of mind.
My pleasure, thanks for the positive comment and good luck in your new home!
Thats cool i was just asking how to check if my crimpers were needing calibrated.... What happens if they are over crimped?
It'll most likely damage the pipe 🙏
It will never be over crimped unless you adjusted your crimper wrong to begin with. The jaws only loosen with time and lose tension
I prefer using PEX fittings Instead of the cumbersome crimp rings and crimping tool. Replumbed my whole house this way.
Are you talking about shark bite fittings? If so, one day you’re probably going to wish you hadn’t done that. They’re known to leak after a while. Sometimes after a few months, sometimes a few years down the road.
Check out Roger Wakefield’s channel. He’s talked about it a lot and even did some tests to the point of failure. It doesn’t take much pressure to pop off a shark bite whereas the crimp fittings don’t come apart.
I use SS crimp rings, works great for close quaters
The UV part is interesting. Don't some people use pex for shop air?
Thanks, just doing my first pex work and this was helpful.
Glad it helped!!!
Also check out PE-RT piping, and compare it to expansion-compatible Pex A or Zurn Pex B.
PE-RT is recyclable, and allegedly stands up to chlorine/chloramine in the water.
I prefer the stainless clamps. Done a ton of them and never had a leak yet.
Yep
Thank you for your generous sharing of professional skills, appreciate it! 👍
My pleasure!!!
Thank you, super-helpful for a homeowner. I can do this, as they say.
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I have to extend some toilet supply lines. Should I use a ring cutter so I don't need to cut off the old fitting and possibly not have a long enough stub to put on a new, longer supply line?
I only use the offset crimper. Those are totally worthless on repairs. Can't get in holes or in between the studs.
I use the other type of crimp rings that you squeeze and they balloon at the top. I find it easier to use. Btw, you are a great plumber. I am an amateur, but I can still tell that you are amazing at your occupation.
Awesome! Thank you so much Michael!!!
I didn’t know all that about the crimping. I guess I should start reading directions.
You’ve pointed out So many reasons not to use crimp, and subtly hinted that expansion system is much Better
I use those icrimp combo tool. It’s awesome!
I was thinking of just using A instead of B. Maybe a bit more expensive but I don’t have much to do in my hunting cabin
I would choose Pex-A anyday over B, but you need to be able to get the pipe/fittings and to find the tool, if you can, go for it!
@@Got2Learn one of my concerns about using Pex is understanding how and where to find the fittings and sizing to match my faucet, toilet and shower. Do I take the fixtures with me to a plumbing shop ??
Do you have special faucets? If you got them at the hardware store they are most likely standard (3/8") connections, so you'll be installing Pex-A shutt-off valve right before your faucet and it'll connect like it would with soldered or crimped valves, no worries.
@@Got2Learn no nothing special… thank you
@@jeffsond just ask here if you got any questions, I did a lot of pex-a so I should be able to answer!
Informative video. Way of explanations is excellent.👍
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Another golden nugget-like vid. Thanks a lot for sharing man!!!!
You bet, thanks José!!
@Got2Learn crimp VS cinch pex fittings !? Prefernce?
I never worked with cinch but I heard a lot of people like them, but I really like crimp!
@@Got2Learn thanks for the reply ! your vids are very informative/ inspirational. After having a heating contractor in my house for a week I finally soldered my own iso valve for some hot water. They liked the cinch b/c the tool is smaller and easier to remove the cinch fittings.
@@routtookc8064 👌👌👌😇😇😇
What I learned: I was p,awning to update the plumbing on my dock that's is done with PVC. I wasn't aware how sun sensitive it is, so I guess I,ll have to redo it in PVC, which isn't impervious to sun either.
Thanks for the tip about the UV
Those plastic bend supports are nice
Yes indeed!
Man, at 4.50, the way he is pulling that blade towards his thumb is not right. An accident waiting to happen.
Thanks for your concern 🤣
I saw that too. Ouch...
A man's gotta learn his limitations,,,,ifi had a dollar for every time I saw blood and didnt know what happened I'd buy a Corvette
Go/No-Go gauges FTW!
So simple, but so effective and quick.
Yes!!!