The 5 BIG MISTAKES Beginners Make When Installing PEX (Watch Before Installing!) | GOT2LEARN
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- Опубликовано: 4 июн 2021
- Here are 5 PEX mistakes you do not want to make!
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DISCLAIMER: Got2Learn is NOT responsible for any damage done to a property of which the plumbing wasn't done by a professional, I do not recommend doing your own plumbing if you are unsure about what you are doing, always hire a LICENSED contractor when doing any type of plumbing so you can be covered by insurances if something does happen, these videos are for entertainment purposes only!
There are also several fitting manufacturers that have depth-gauges built in to the fittings to help you crimp properly. Waterline (in Canada) and Sharkbite poly fittings have these. I also used the poly ones exclusively because of how hard my water is.
This is just what I learned in the past week. If you plan to use a lot of water for a swimming pool and / or watering a garden do this. Run a separate line from your main supply . I got 14 years and the brass fittings started to leak. Had to replace all fittings that had the main flow of water going thru them. Also I learned if a fitting looks bad on the boiler, replace it. When I grabbed hold mine , it broke off in my hand with full flow. The bottom line is I would run all separate lines ( if reasonable, ) and have no fittings hidden. They must all be available for inspection and easy to replace. Any sign of corrosion the fitting most likely will be brittle and weak. Remember I got 14 years. I build another house 38 years ago with copper pipe and it is still going strong.
Had to replumb my entire house myself 14 years ago in pex due to poor local contractor work. This is by far the best advice anyone can give.
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Why did you have to do it in pex rather than copper?
@@integr8er66 cheaper
OMG, PEX tubing in my basement has been exposed to light for ten years… is it sensitive to DEL?
Poor contractor work, or the cheapest price? 😂
The degree to which UV has to be avoided was a surprise. In that vein I’d point out that if windows in basements are a risk then fluorescent lights in basements are an issue. I used to use fluorescent lights as my UV source for exposing photoresist.
I remember (not that fondly) re-piping my hot water lines with red 3/4" Pex the length of the house in 2006. I liked how flexible the tubing was so things which didn't line up perfectly still worked. Those large crimping pliers were a bear to get into certain areas though. They crimped in a hex shape rather than the round you show. Pluses and minuses for sure vs copper.
i like the cut outs you have for the piece used in plumbing, give me a better idea on what i need thing to be like. thanks for another helpful video.
Got2Learn has the best plumbing videos I've found on youtube; brilliant visuals and expert advice. Thank you 😁
Thank you soooo much Mark!!
Love your channel. I always watch these videos after I watch a few how-to's when learning a new DIY skill. Always saves me some grief.
The kink part was very informative and the direct sunlight part I never knew. Great video, I have seen those stub out and never knew what they were for.
Thank you so much for your assistance...
I can always see everything i did wrong in hindsight after many failed attempts
This time success with out too many attempts!
I rarely subscribe to channels but you’re straightforward, no bullshit dialogue approach was informative and refreshing. Subscribed👍🇺🇸
Niceeee, thanks!!!! 💎💎💎
thanks for the tip about the sunlight, I hadn't realized that. I plan on moving my spigot in the back of the house to the driveway some 30' away and was planning to just attach the pex to the exisiting spigot and put a new spigot at the end where I want the control. Being outside I hadn't considered the sunlight. I think I will take the old hose that used to do the job (but is now leaking due to constant water pressure,) and slit it down the house and use it to wrap/cover the pex to keep the sunlight out.
Great tips!! I've been meaning to cover an exposed pipe leading to my my hose bib outside to protect it from cold. I didn't know about the sunlight issue. Poor job by the plumber who left it like that when he repiped my whole house. He did other subpar things I'm realizing to include trying to charge me triple the cost. 🤨
Great advice about crimping and removing pex fittings. The tools used for pex fittings are expensive, but worth every dollar spent. I bought the crimping tool for both 1/2" and 3/4" fittings. A friend has the crimping tool with 4 crimping heads, 3/8" 1/2", 3/4" & 1". I would never use anything but a crimping tool. I definitely recommend the tool for removing the crimp ring. This video didn't show how many times he cut the ring. It doesn't pop off that easy with only one cut. Sometimes it will take 2 or 3 cuts around the ring before it pops off. I just make 2 cuts and pull it off with pliers. Everyone who uses pex fittings know how expensive they can be, so you will save as many as you can.
I always try to use crimp fittings. I only use push fittings when I cana't get the crimping tool around the pipe. I don't like using push fittings inside walls.
Life saver!! I just started my construction company!!! Thank you so much for this video !!! I feel a lot more confident now and will be definitely be buying the pex clamp 🙌✌️😁💯💯💯❤️✌️😁💯💯💯
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Dude, your style of presentation is *great*!
Plumbing was never this much fun, who knew I'd even be watching this 🙂
Keep up the great work!
Thank you so much Roger, I try hard to make them entertaining and informative at the same time :)
I use the stainless steel cinch rings, not the copper crimp rings. About three times the price but I like the extra durability they provide. And the cinch tool auto releases when you have reached the proper point.
That's all I use these days.
You also save time not needing to check with a gauge.
As with many others, I much prefer stainless Oetiker bands to copper crimp rings. Still, your cutaway section showing the crimp area at 1:00 is FANTASTIC! It really explains what needs to be done, in a single frame to anyone not familiar with PEX fittings.
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But if the fitting is copper, would it not be best to have a crimp ring having the same thermal expansion coefficient?
@@somaday2595 Good question, but no. The thermal expansion coefficient of PEX is 5x greater than that of copper. So, as the copper fitting expands when heated, the PEX is trying to expand AWAY from it 5x faster. The crimp ring constrains it, so long as the hoop forces stretching it don't reach the copper's yield point. If the crimp ring ever exceeds its elastic limit, it is game over. And that is where stainless beats copper by far. The stainless used in Oetiker clamps is quiet soft by spring steel standards, yet it still has at least a 50% greater yield strength than copper, which allows the "ear" to be formed by cinching. That ear acts as a spring, maintaining near constant hoop tension across a varying range of circumferences, making the stainless clamp kind of impervious to crimper calibration issues that haunt the crimp system.
Still, when applied correctly, all of these systems are known to hold beyond the burst strength of the PEX, making arguments about what's best kind of moot.
@@robertlitman2661 Yield strength of the ring material was not in question but rather, the ring compression force on the PE. If the SS expands less than the Cu, the compression force would be stronger with the SS ring. Within a few thermal cycles, the seal with the SS when cold would be a less tight than the Cu ring. The PE will not creep back once it has flowed under compression of the ring.
@@somaday2595 That's why we use PEX and not plain PE. The cross linking is what stops creep and makes the whole system work. That creep is also why PE icemaker lines are a time-bomb, and I have concerns that PERT will turn into a PB fiasco eventually.
As an arch, I appreciate this kind of content. Now I know more about one of the products we use in the field
All great points. Ring breakers can score the pex enough to slide it off if you simply "cut" where the ring would be in a couple different spots.
Voila - slides right off.
as usual , always the best vids in plumbing !! you da man ! enjoy your summah ! Cheers from Maine ! Ps.. looking fwd to more FUTURE vids on the expansion type PEX !
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I use the S.S. Ratcheting rings when in a tight spot; the crimping tool is smaller than the ring compression tool, shown in the video, and just easier to navigate in tighter spots.
Yes.... I have fond memories of ratchetting crimpers for RF coaxial cables - Suhner, Mmmmmmm... :-)
I have been wanting to start a plumbing apprenticeship so I applied at the local plumbing supply store. It's been pretty good because I get to deliver gear to plumbers on the job and passively experience the sorts of work and material used in the field. I'm also trying to build some rapport with the plumbers in the hope that one of them ask me if I want to apprentice under them. I think we've had at least 3 people leave over the years to become plumbers through our customers, so I hope it goes well. In saying all that, It's nice to watch these videos to get a bit more background into these products that I'm dealing with with on a daily basis, but never sure of their application, etc. So cheers
But I thought there's a shortage of labor lol. That's what all these companies say
To the program you are called apprentice. The company that hires you calls you helper. The person you are helping calls you slave. lol If you mind digging and are uncomfortable with poo, then I would look at other trades. That being said, and to the topic of the video, I have yet to see a self respecting older plumber say "I like pex". And sharkbite....forget it.
The UV warning for PEX is for direct outdoor sunlight. If the light has to pass through a window in a new home you're probably okay. New Low-E windows block UV, and even dirty old soda glass in older homes blocks nearly all UVB (the harmful stuff) and most UVA.
Yep. In the southwest and we stub out with pex for all fixtures and in 15 years have never had a single problem.
Im new to Pex and about to do something in my utility closet out to the spicket on the front of my house. Why is it an issue to use Pex in a room with a water heater? Its not sunlight?
That's because the home owner doesn't know you piped the place and how to get in touch with you. Copper is king on stubs. @@spacecruisers
Some copper rings have a plastic ‘shoulder’ on one end, allowing you to slide the ring to the correct distance and seat it all the way ‘home’, about a few millimetres from the end of the PEX
This video was really useful
I didn’t even know what that was until now thanks man
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Informative video. Way of explanations is excellent.👍
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Facinating to watch plumbing from other places of the world. Here in scandinavia we use machines to crimp the coupling. I guess you have that too? Haven't seen all your videos yet.
Nice videos!
Here in the US we have a tool and fittings called Pro Press. That is what I see most professional plumbers use. But it's used with copper pipe, and the fittings are copper with washers and crimp rings.
You can use the crimp ring breaker to press a bunch of cuts into the stub of cut pex and work around it 360 degrees then it should pull off with your hand. That’s how I do it. Quick and no extra tools or heating needed.
Thank you, super-helpful for a homeowner. I can do this, as they say.
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Thank you for your generous sharing of professional skills, appreciate it! 👍
My pleasure!!!
Watching this video again. First mistake is using crimp vs clamp. Clamp appears to be the better way to go. Pretty sold on ProPEX these days personally so a non issue.
Hi. I love your videos and have learned a lot. Can you make a video on how to replace a piece of underground toilet pipe where the other ends are still in the ground and impossible to excavate?
Have you tried using a pressure washer? ruclips.net/video/-MQNmJwrwLY/видео.html
You should use stainless steel locking clamps. They will not corrode. The crimpers are easier to use as well. 🙂
When re-plumbing short runs of copper, like wall plumbing behind showers, do you usually stick with the same dimension of PEX B as the copper pipe? That is, when replacing 1/2” copper pipe, do you use 1/2” PEX B pipe? Or do you upsize to 3/4” PEX B to better match the inner diameters? I’ve seen different views on whether there is much of a difference between the two approaches on short pipe runs, but was wondering if you’ve done both and have any opinion. Great video and great channel!
If you are starting at the water supply and working towards fixtures,avoid going from smaller to bigger. So if you are at the shower and working towards your water supply source,it should only get bigger and bigger pipe diameter as you work towards the main water shut off valve. If not not only can you have issues with water pressure,but you could end up getting noisy pipes when water is running. I seen a house where anytime you used the bathroom sink,the whole house had a loud squealing sound. All because they had a small diameter,large diameter and small again. Hope this helps with what you were asking.
For tight areas I cut one handle of my crimper half off. Very difficult to use now but i can get those tight places better.
Thanks for the video man. It has a lot of useful information. Most of it I already knew or is self explanatory, but I did learn a thing or two as well.
I appreciate. Hope your staying safe out there.
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Thanks for the tip about the UV
Also check out PE-RT piping, and compare it to expansion-compatible Pex A or Zurn Pex B.
PE-RT is recyclable, and allegedly stands up to chlorine/chloramine in the water.
I've learned a lot from your videos, thank you. I have a crimping tool for PEX as this was the cheapest tool for a DIYer who needed to do a fast repair. But what is better, Crimping or clamping PEX pipes, and is brass or poly PEX connections better? I'm preparing to do a bathroom makeover and was going to use copper because I have all the tools and more experience sweating than crimping but PEX seems to be a lot faster.
First off, thank you so much. I prefer crimping in general, never had any experience with the SS cinch rings as you mentioned, but a lot of people love them so I guess it's all up to you. As for plastic of brass, I don't have a preference, as long as the brass fittings are DRZ (dezinc resistant) you are good to go!
I had to redo some plumbing for my bathroom renos and planned on reusing the brass fittings. They had patches of corrosion on them, inside and out. Still trying to figure how the corrosion spots started on the outside of them when the water isn’t supposed to be there. Not some of them, all of them. My house is only 20 years old.
I opted for the stainless cinch rings and plastic fittings. The cinch rings are easier to install, you can see them while you’re cinching them to make sure they’re in the right place and straight and the cinching tool needs far less room to use.
Prices may have changed but for the small fittings there wasn't much of a difference (bought online), although I used brass because the area had a chance to freeze. For bigger fittings like manifolds it can be a much bigger. For matching old pipe to new, first making certain one has all the needed fittings. Attach and tighten those first before attaching PEX since PEX isn't suppose to like twisting action once crimped.
Nicely done. Concisely presented.
This is why i went with the stainless cinch rings. Need much less room to cinch, you can see the ring before and during installation, one cincher does all sized rings and the cinching tool costs 1/2 the price of the copper crimp tool.
Same here. As a home diy’er I didn’t want to invest so much on crimping tools that I’ll seldom use when a single chinch tool will do both 1/2” and 3”4” and can access areas that the crimping tool can’t! Plus I can use a chinch tool with one hand. Cost, access, one handed use...all positives for chinching over crimping.
You can also cut off the cinch clamps with much less chance of damaging the fitting. Most of the time, you can use pliers to pull the ring side away from the locking teeth, and it will pop open. However, I generally don't reuse fittings. It's not worth the risk when they only cost $1-$2 each, even for the brass ones.
@@bnasty267 Are you serious right now? lol I used small bolt cutters to cut the damn things. Then I heat just a touch with torch to loosen the pex.
Good job, exactly what I needed to know and none of what I didn’t! Cheers
Glad it helped!!
Great video! Straight to the point and concise. You can’t fake professional.
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Great information...Best PEX Video
Thanks, just doing my first pex work and this was helpful.
Glad it helped!!!
I had no idea that pex pipe would go bad by being exposed to sunlight.....Great video thanks!!!!
Yeah, it degrades and can eventually leak 👌
Great info, thanks. Well done.
It’s why I only use Uponor Products with the battery operated Milwaukee crimping tool.
Am learning something new from your videos every time thanks
Glad to help L J, thanks!
Very important that you emphasized that pex is not UV resistant. I was considering using it for an outdoor solar collector. Now I know to insulate it from sunlight.
100%
Indeed! I've watched other videos which enumerated the pros & cons of PEX, but none of them mentioned anything about UV resistance. I wonder if the manufacturers can do something to make it UV resistant.
can't say enough great things about how much I enjoy this awesome channel
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All great points... I didn't know. Very helpful. Tks.
Thanks for watching!!!
just use Pex-A (Uponor) and the problems of tight areas are a non issue. Thank you for the information, this is very helpful for PEX-B installs.
Good advise! 🙏
What about pex a sharkbite
Super job, simple et clair.
What I learned: I was p,awning to update the plumbing on my dock that's is done with PVC. I wasn't aware how sun sensitive it is, so I guess I,ll have to redo it in PVC, which isn't impervious to sun either.
Done a lot of PEX but did not know your tips. Thanks and I'll buy a go-no go tool.
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The UV part is interesting. Don't some people use pex for shop air?
Another golden nugget-like vid. Thanks a lot for sharing man!!!!
You bet, thanks José!!
Great video thank you🙌🏻🙌🏻😻😻
muy buen video amigo gracias por compartir
I've got exposed pex spraying pin holes in my laundry room. Hopefully its from the uv light and all other runs are fine
Thank you!
I use poly fitting, not brass, because of low ph of the water.. Also I use SS clamp rings, not copper rings, as I found they will leak over time
Until they fail because of the uneven tension on the rings.
I think I learned that the plumbers that I have Competition here were im at is doing it Wrong. So thank you.
The round rings are a pain in the A we use the clintch clamps that work so much better we have done hundreds of jobe and not one leak and the clamps are stainless never rust
Great video! Always enjoy them!
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I've torn out so much PEX with leaking rings i don't do plumbing full time anymore but my friend owns a company its Copper or CPVC only. But some county's in PA these sub divisions they only use PEX home runs only from the manifold to the valve no fittings
thanks great and informative tips and nuances
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Good information thanks
Thanks , good information
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Thank you so much for the handy tips :D
You bet!
Good take on everything you said, you just repeated everything my instructor told us in my plumbing class using all types of materials.
Great tips sir, thanks! 👍👍
You bet!
THANKS! I learned a few things.
Yeyyyyy!!!!
Had it happen to me today, so, I soaked my helper for crimping the ring in the wrong spot, not sure if he learned anything, but I felt better. ;)
another great video... the problem is I think pex sounds too easy to mess up with... I thought it was supposed to be the "miracle" plumbing that held up to all sorts of weather and conditions
got a question hopefully you can answer. Leaking flapper. Replaced (tried 2 different ones). Still leaks. I adjusted the chain setting to just about everything possible from fairly tight to really loose. From what I can tell the flush handle pulls the flapper sideways sometimes (not always). When it goes sideways it doesn't fully re-seat, and then I get "ghost flushes" once in a while. This is the first time I've had this problem - replaced flappers several times previously.
Might need to Macgyver something.
@@WJHandyDad My old flapper had a mini-weight above it.
Great information. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
My biggest issue with pex (b i guess it is) is how restrictive the fittings are.
Thanks for the UV tip!
I didn’t know all that about the crimping. I guess I should start reading directions.
nice video thank you for the tips!
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Never used this type of pex. My favorite of the types I've used is uponor, though the 1/2" 90 shortage at the moment is not fun.
WTF?! There's a 90 bracket shortage too?
@@nomansarker5556 yeah, according to the uponor company, their factory that makes them had a covid outbreak. Causing the shortage.
IMHO, after using crimp and expansion on several HVAC installations, crimp definitely isn't bad but I prefer expansion which requires Pex-A. It's faster, easier and if done correctly no need to get the expansion tool in to tight spaces. It is expensive though.
I don't think it's any more expensive than any other pex. Maybe the tool, but you can get an Apollo Expansion tool for 1/2" and 3/4" for under $150. I believe a power tool is under $300.
@@ericlewandowskivlogs Good point. I was only considering the Milwaukee 1/2" to 1" power expander I used for HVAC. The only thing I didn't like about working with PEX was that 1" and bigger roles of PEX can be a real pain to straight, especially in the winter .
Excellent info. Short but sweet!
Glad you liked it!!!
Short and to the point. Nice!
Glad it was helpful!!!
If both the go and the no fit snug then you are in the quantum realm, PEX doesn't work properly in the quantum realm, make sure you are not bouncing between universes before doing PEX
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Excellent video, as always.
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I use SS crimp rings, works great for close quaters
I use the other type of crimp rings that you squeeze and they balloon at the top. I find it easier to use. Btw, you are a great plumber. I am an amateur, but I can still tell that you are amazing at your occupation.
Awesome! Thank you so much Michael!!!
I saw a crimping tool that is two blocks of metal with bolts going through them. You can reverse the blocks to give you four different crimp sizes. I was wondering what you thought of that type of crimp tool. Obviously it wouldn't be practical on a large job but for a small job or for tight spaces it seems like a good idea to me.
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Saludos cordiales de México 🇲🇽 me gustaría conocer ese material lo venden en México 🇲🇽.
Awesome content, thanks! I actually haven't seen many videos cover two questions I have about converting from copper to PEX-B.
1. When converting (let's say from 1/2" copper) should you upsize the PEX-B pipe to compensate for the reduced ID on connectors?
2. What is the best method to stub out? I see the two options are to get the PEX - copper stub-out, or get the wall support for a direct PEX stub-out. I assume it is always best to support the stub-out to prevent users from accidentally breaking the pipe when using too much force on an angle stop.
1) it really depends on how many fixtures you have and how many you plan on adding in the future, but normally 1/2" does the job.
2) Yes, copper stubouts are the way to go and you can use wood blocking with copper u-clips to secure them in place 🙏
@@Got2Learn Thanks for your wonderful video! I'm planning to add a sink, a toilet, a shower room and a washer in the basement. All of these are very close to existing 1/2 copper pipes. Is it okay (by the building code) to directly connect all of them to the 1/2 copper pipes (assuming all these fixtures generally won't be used at the same time)? Would be required by the code to upsize to 3/4 PEX-B pipes before connecting each fixture? Thanks.
@@liangmaew it's better if you can connect each fixture to a 3/4" pipe, but 1/2" will thanks, thanks Liang!!!
@@Got2Learn Thanks a lot for your quick reply!
I used pex plumbing my home. I mistakenly let it sag below foundation where it was exposed to direct sunlight when running kitchen sink hot water line. Not much but enough. We had a hard freeze that winter and line split and leaked when thawed out. I cut out the split section and bent just to test flexibility. Line snapped like a pencil. That's when I watched installation videos instead of before installing. Yup my mistake and admit it. Finished by using holder's to keep line up outa sunlight.
Very nice video. Thanks.
Iwiss seems to make good tools all around, for electronics I have some and have had good luck with them. (The tool says it is made by iwiss)
Great video! I did have a question. Can you use the pinch and crimp rings on A PEX? I saw it in a house and didn't change it.
Thanks!
To answer your question, I think it would work, but the warranty would get voided if used that way from what I recall as it's meant to be used with the expansion rings, cheers Dan!!!
I have to extend some toilet supply lines. Should I use a ring cutter so I don't need to cut off the old fitting and possibly not have a long enough stub to put on a new, longer supply line?
Great video, thank you!
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Also, don’t run Pex within 5ft of a Fluorescent light due to UV exposure.