PEX A vs PEX B: Pros and Cons 🤔
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- Опубликовано: 5 май 2024
- Which is better: PEX A or PEX B? Quin Williams of Williams Plumbing breaks down the pros and cons of each, and reveals which type of PEX our plumbers regularly use in the field.
0:00 Introduction
1:04 Cost
2:19 Joining Method
5:10 Sizing the System
5:57 Burst Pressure
6:28 Summary
7:40 Verdict
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Williams is the Northwest’s largest plumbing and civil contractor. We offer a comprehensive line of quality plumbing, civil construction, HVAC, green energy, consulting, and service solutions to meet the needs of just about any building project.
Williams Plumbing & Heating, Inc.
2131 Industrial Dr.
Bozeman, MT 59715
(406) 587-0969
www.willplumb.com/ 
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If you want to learn how to size your water lines with PEX, watch our newer video here: ruclips.net/video/GaIjYGmwTr0/видео.html
Hey William's plumbing and heating. Did you know they make cold expansion rings now? Closes in the cold and wont slip off if wet. They have been out for about a year.
I think this video has pretty misleading information about cost and working in tight spaces because the existence of cinch clamp is completely ignored.
Just what I was looking for. All channels requests to tap the LIKE button.
Your presentation deserves the LIKE click!!!
👏 best "xplainer?"
I hate PEX. I find it very difficult to get a good solder joint.
sorry pex isn't stable long term. learn your craft first
I think it's worth mentioning that PEX-A is fully compatible with all the joining methods you can use on PEX-B so if you have PEX-A installed but only have access to PEX-B type fittings you can still use those for repairs.
good to know. i never knew it.
I was just about to ask this question. Awesome! Cheers.
Yup, I have some Viega pex B and pureflow my plumber put in. But I am going to do few showers later and Im going with type A. Eventually I will transition those but you can still use make a transition between pex A and B with the crimp fittings. Only thing is Uponor does not warranty that joint and the warranty time on the system is lowered overall. But this is does not matter to a DYIer since their work wont be covered regardless
Confusing messages beyond belief. My plumber friend told me you can also expand type B pex and use expansion fittings on that. Just bought the sharkbite tool and used the copper ring system.
@@motorbreath7174 just make sure its fully inserted, and the tube ends and even and burr free. those sharkbites are the least reliable joining method, usually because its relying on pressing against an oring and staying held in place
Another benefit of pex-A is that pretty much all of the fittings are buriable. Pex-B requires the fancier and more expensive stainless or brass rings for burial.
Also, folks, let your expender do its 1/8 turn prior to pushing in in for another stretch. You should see it turn each time it expands unlike in the brief example in his video.
After retiring I purchased the pex a tool , completely gutted the plumbing system on my house. 1950's 1/2" galvanized piping nightmare removed and installed 3/4" main trunk lines with 1/2" branch lines to fixtures . I haven't regretted it once in the almost 2 years since I did it. I help out friends with plumbing problems but I don't do it during the winter months. Mostly because I'm old and don't care for the cold. One friend asked me why I don't use sharkbite fittings instead and I told him because they are too expensive and they are unsightly.
Great video. I'm a do-it-yourself guy who uses Pex-B for home and RV repairs. I was shopping for fittings at the home improvement store and started seeing a lot of parts labeled for Pex-A only, so that led me here.
Just learning about PEX. Thank you and great vid!
One thing you have not touched on when it comes to low pressure whether it be A or B pex is that pex was originally designed to be used in a home run system where individual lines are run to each fixture from the manifold thus giving constant volume and pressure.
Great point!
But how many of the cheap guys who don't know what they're doing (I work in an area where licenses are only required in the cities) are NOT running homeruns because they're installing the cheapest system they can?
Probly not by the book right but I basically made my own manifold using 3/4 inch pex and T fittings. 3/4 in 3/4 out with 1/2 inch off the side and then the third and final T is 3/4 in 1/2 out with 1/2 out the side one line running to my sink the other to my bath. So the main line is 3/4 inch with 1/2 inch line running off that to each tap. Think I can get away with that, My thinking was the 3/4 mainline to 1/2 would give me good pressure, same idea as having a 3/4 manifold with 1/2 lines. Small off grid cabin artesian well with a shit ton of water pressure feeding a kitchen sink, bathroom sink, tub and toilet.
Thank you for your information, I always run a 3/4 main trunk and 3/4 3/4 1/2 to my fixtures. Thank you for your information
Thanks for this video pointing out the pros and cons (as is with all life matters)! I’m helping to maintain our church Bldg that has type-B runs and fittings into a manifold. This video answered some of my questions and eased my doubts. Again thank you !
Very good explanation, and very understandable for beginners. I just moved from a copper pipe house to a PEX house, and was lost on how to make plumbing modifications/repairs. Your video helped a lot. Plus, I appreciate the bloopers; I've just never seen them at the beginning of a video! 😁
I have been watching these plumbing & building videos now for the last year. This by far is ONE OF THE BEST breakdown videos I have watched. FYI: Licensed Master Plumber of Kentucky. Also, use Uponor myself. Have plumbed with the other types in other states, but this system of PEX-A is the best.
Thank you, Mark! More breakdown videos coming soon.
Very clear, cogent, and quick. Excellent job. Thank you for posting.
Best thing about RUclips, it never goes away! Learning never stops!!
Great video, Thanks!
I am an RV technician and have done both A & B. I prefer PEX A as well. Really great stuff.
Nicely edited vid with crystal clear information. You know your stuff. Thank you for putting this together!
Glad this helped. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great video. I really appreciate your break down of the differences.
Brilliant point about "Flow". I use uponor A for a geothermal sometimes. Using expandapex fittings.for better flow.
Excellent. Very well done......After watching this I thought You guys are great at making instructional videos. Great Job.
This is all great advice for sure.
I had to replace virtually the entire hot water line in the attic of my rental house with PEX B. First time. Used the pinch type clamps. The half-inch PEX, using copper connectors, was smaller than the 1/2" galvanized I was replacing that went to the vanity and shower (I had to cut through a closet wall in two places to do this) but the galvanized was so badly rusted inside that I couldn't see through a one-foot piece. The water pressure after replacement was easily twice what it was before, both in the shower and in the vanity. The 3/4" galvanized line that I had to replace all the way back to the water heater was just as badly clogged. At 70 years old, I spent 5 days in that attic (fortunately, my daughter, also my tenant there, were able to be out of town for that week) but the hardest part was climbing that ladder each day. My house was built in the late 70s. The next-door neighbor was able to make use of the roll of PEX I had left over doing his water lines.
Nice to be able to buy the PEX in red, for the hot line, and Blue, for the cold.
My best idea was to disconnect the hot water line at the water heater outlet, use my shop vac to clear the lines of water before using the Sawzall to cut those long runs of pipe. Literally no water in any of the pipe I cut.
Still got another shower/vanity and then all the way to the kitchen. I have no idea where those lines run down that wall.
🎉Hi Reggie great post If I were living in your area I’d help you complete the rest of your DIY plumbing I love DIY projects …as for locating OLD COPPER PIPES in the walls they do make an excellent tool that WILL locate all Magnetic (wires and such) AND NON MAGNETIC (copper is non magnetic) it sells for about $20-$50 depending on the Brand you buy. The Zircon brand is a decent price of about $20-$35 I’ll bet Lowes or Home Depot sells It. Yet if you 😢🎉have access to the internet i feel pricing and delivery is sooo much better like on Amazon. Now if you own a good Stud finder you can also use it to find where and if it goes thru a stud to the fixture site like to where the cabinet is. You should have it easier with the two tools and good batteries I also like PEX A due to it being able to take freezing better decreasing the chance of rupturing. Ohhhh and when it comes to the rest of your plumbing you really should look for the UTube video that talks about using a “MANIFOLD” system to set up and attach and bring each Hot and Cold PEX line NEATLY/ORGANIZED INTO A “Manifold System Set UP it’s located where the main cold water intake comes into the house at the hot water tank site (attaching It to the manifold) and to the hot water heater and from the hot water heater out to the “Manifold device” which will have each and every single cold and hot water PEX line going to each fixture/appliance water in an emergency since each PEX line will come into the Manifold having its very own shut off valve on EACH PEX LINE
And if you have just one pex line running to each fixture no splicing needed the PEX can literally be run enormous lengths without the need to splice for added length Ive run it 30 feet I like the 1” gives better water pressure even with short lengths I don’t have to worry pressure is seats great. All Good luck and I’m looking forward to seeing a DIY video of the work you did. Oh your studs can be anywhere from 12”-16” to( 18” very rare) on center I’d look up the building code for the year it was built it should be posted. Wish you lived near me id help you I Love to do renovations and DIY projects. Ohh btw I’ve used closed cell insulation in the walls (exterior annnnnd interior) the ceilings and the ROOF not only did it make the best vapor barrier but it is amazing how it insulates the PEX and literally fills in where any and all air leaks were and made the house cheaper to heat and cool by hundred of dollars and depending on how big the house and are is I got the company to negotiate their price with me too. It’s going to cost us lots of money this winter I think. Check out the Manifold Device. I’ll bet it’s a big help for you like it’s for me feel free to email or text
@@dianedomey3749 I've got to fix the water burst up in the attic too after the freeze in Texas.
Excellent video easy to follow and straight to the point without too much fluff
Very good and informative video. I am a retired plumber and this is all new to me thx
Great video, very informative, thanks for putting in the effort!
Thanks for watching!
When I started doing Handyman type work I used PEX B, easier to work with than copper but the crimp tool ended the enjoyment. I listened to Roger W. and spoke about PEX A. told how much better it was and all about the pro/cons. Hmmm I had to learn more so I dove in, bought the Milwaukee tool and never looked back. PEX A is my pain repair pipe of choice
Easy to configure around obstacles, never a mis fit that leaks, neat clean look. Happy customers.
I’m about to plumb my house with pex- A thanks for the advice very informative thanks for the video
Thought I knew a fair bit on Pex but I learned a ton from this video. Great comparison and you sold me on Pex A. I also subscribed just now. Really appreciate you taking the time to share your professional views.
Thanks, Jerry. Glad you found this helpful!
Retired from the mobile home industry recently. We switched from using cpvc ( glued) to pex b 10 years ago and it was great for me. I ran the service department and was constantly chasing water leaks , from cracked, frozen pipes, bad glue joints etc. The pex was way more reliable and easier to repair when something goes wrong. Also Lowe's sells a crimping tool that works fine for about 30 bucks
Every review I have seen says you need some serious muscles to use it
@@deadmanswife3625 go to a plumbing supply house like Ferguson and get a one handed crimp tool. You need one for each size of pex but way easier to use. Can crimp 3/4 and 1/2 with little effort as long as you’re not crimping sideways over your head.
@@SudoVII ty
I worked on both Million dollar homes to Mobile homes. I Hated Quest. I generally ran copper in most cases. I installed Water treatment systems and installed Well Pumps both Submersible and Jet Pumps. I also had the “Pleasure” of working on Piston Water Pumps.. I really like PEX. I generally recommend 3/4 Type B due to pressure and volume concerns with 1/2”. I prefer the SS pinch clamps because of space issues. My Most installed item locally was Water Softeners. Some areas around me can have up to 20 GPG. Which is Very Hard water..
Quality post! Nice timing, too - the final hours are ticking down right along with our overnight lows until I go ahead and settle on how to approach slapping together a bunch of spot splicing on polybutelene in a 1980s manufactured home. Don't even get me started about the drainage end of things!
This video is tidy and informative.
Steven Thompson Thanks, Steven. Glad you saw this at the right time!
dont splice it just replace it if its already splitting open it will continue
Much appreciated! The upsizing pex b was something that never would have occured to me! Thanks!!!
Thank you. I have Type A PEX and need to do a modification. Only bad thing with Type A as a diy'er is the more specialized tools needed.
A very kind helpful hint.
Zurn firings do Not reduce pressure , but Does reduce volume.
I think you just miss spoke , but you may want to explain and share that with watchers.
I thought you did very well on your video.
You did a good job of helping home owners.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks you I thought it was just me. I have being using pex B for yr and there no Such. Think and reducing pressure.
Reducing volume = reducing pressure once the volume the fixture uses (shower or whatever) exceeds the volume and the connection can pass.
They don't reduce pressure while the water is stationary, but as it starts to move, they restrict the flow, and the venturi effect creates low pressure downstream.
When I was younger I always thought that bigger pipe meant it could carry more pressure but it’s kinda the opposite. Yes the type b will reduce volume size for size vs type a but it’s almost more important to me to have better pressure especially in the shower.
Very informative . I’m a diy guy and I always think I’m saving the cost of labor so I want to use the best materials. Type a is THE way to go . Cheap insurance as well as depending on your installation could save you so much frustration and anger ! Thanks for the info !
Thanks for this video instruction. I intend to break a large Hydronic heating Zone into 2 parts and need to run rather short return and Supply lines through a closet. PEX A looks great but you did not mention heating VS domestic water usage. I know PEX is used for heating, but I will have to be sure... The system I have is 100% Copper built in 1964, so the connections will be made to copper.
this video was awesome, It helped me make the decisions to move my project forward. Additionally, Labor is ALWAYS the biggest cost; the relatively small saving for smaller or cheaper systems is never the right answer.
I know this is an older video and the tech has changed. PEX B (Zurn) has expansion fittings too and can use the same install tooling as PEX A in the appropriate size, although you are still required to use the right ZURN fittings. Additionally, PEXB does have some of the same pre-warming requirements as PEXA if you are using expansion fittings. Otherwise accurate. I think both are roughly equivalent in temperate climate use.
Great explanation! Thank you!!👍
Gadget Allen Glad to help. Thanks for watching!
Thanks man. Need to learn more about my home's pex system.
The old house I bought is solid and has type A PEX. The line to the shower, and bathroom sink freezes because it is ran through a short section of exterior wall. I'm going to run it under the house. Thanks so much for the video. Good job.
I watched a video by Matt Risinger and he did a burst test with pen pipe. The pex-a actually burst before the pex-b. That makes sense since the B is more Rigid.
Don’t be afraid of the pex-b bursting.
Both are rated for far more pressure than you're likely to get in your water supply. Like the difference between using a 1/2" bolt vs a 3/8" bolt for hanging a picture. 😂
Has no one ever thought about keeping your rings in your cost pocket. That what I’ve always done and have no issues with the ring going back in cold days.
*coat pocket -- great idea
Thank you, this was a great video professionally made, and it gave me a lot to think about, I am building a pretty sizable workshop 60 x 40 with three separate rooms, two bathrooms, a kitchen in one of the rooms, and I am considering using pex and I was on the fence about which one to use, you have clearly made pex a winner thank you
Clear, concise, informative, no BS …
Nice video! 😉
I never use copper compression rings with pex. I always use the stainless pinch ring so I don’t have to worry about alignment when clamping which is something you didn’t talk about in your video also you don’t need as big of a tool when using the stainless pinch rings so the tool can fit into tighter spaces.
I like the pinch ring style better also never had one leak and it's harder to mess it up.
That is something I was wondering about. Which type would be better. I think Im going to go with the steel cinch rings and not the copper. Now I just have to buy the tool and maybe pick up some some basic fittings along with a bag or two of the steel bands. That way Im ready to fix that pipe at 8pm on a sat night. Most stores around here are closed by 6pm mon - sat and most are closed on sunday.
Been a plumber for 25 years and have used both.
I've never had either system fail if installed properly and with common sense.
Plastic fittings, I've seen those fail though. Seen tees crack and come in half a year after the install.
Been using brass fittings ever since without issue, pex-b.
People will argue this forever, both are good products and B is cheaper
long live Pex B
Excellent info, my man! Looking to replumb my 1987 RV with PEX and trying to learn what I can about the system (has this old gray butyl stuff now). This was really informational! :)
Glad this helped you. Good luck on that project!
In addition to solid information I liked the small indicators on the red RUclips progress line where you change to a different aspect (cost, joining, etc.). I'd never seen that before.
Good summary. My house was done with Rehau 20 years ago when they were doing the 2080 connectors vs. their current mix between a 2080 and a Uponor connector. Never had any issues with water hammer like copper folks can and the only problem we've had with freezing is because the building used copper for the final bib stub out.
The single thing I hate about it is that for the rare/extremely infrequent small job, I can't do it myself and I have to pay a plumber a ton just to come out for a 10 min job because the tools are even more expensive. I'll be using crimps and lengths of pex a for an upcoming bit of bathroom work simply because I don't have another reasonable option for small, quick jobs. If the box box (or anyone) would rent the tools it would be great, as the tools they rent now are perfect for the one-off job that doesn't make sense to buy a tool for, but sadly non that I can find in my area do.
I would have thought the money you save on a single plumber visit would pay for the tools you need! Which is really just the crimp tool and pipe shears.
@@alexanderSydneyOz Issue I was trying to state is that if wanted to use Pex A and Rehau or Uphonor I have to pay for a plumber. I can't get those tools or parts without paying potentially thousands, which makes a one-off plumber visit cheaper.
So I was forced to switch to Pex B and crimp connections as those parts and tools are muuuuch cheaper than a plumber visit.
I re-plumbed my house with Pex-A. Spend the money and buy the Milwaukee expansion tool, the manual one is too much of a hassle. One disadvantage to Pex A, your fittings can't much closer than about 3". The problem... when you put the expansion tool in the pipe on the second fitting, if too close to the first, it will jam and freeze inside the first fitting. I found out the hard way.
Thanks! We’re ‘pex-folks’ and are exploring transitioning to be more a than b- your video is great- we’re not as cold as you are-(UT) and have been to worry about the temperature issues.
We already have the expansion tool 😊
Now we’re finding the fittings at supply houses are not comparable ($) to your chart.
We’re convinced but need cost effective supply. (We’re a husband/wife team w/40+ years experience)
Thanks for your comparison!
You’re fun and informative 😊
Getting ready to replumb my mobile home with pex. Thanks for the recommendations on material & tooling needed. A friend of mine has left over material, fittings & the tools to install type A. Jackpot!!
Very informative video, thanks a bunch!
(Subscribed)
I have owned a few mobiles, all in northern Michigan. If you live in a very cold climate with a home just set on blocks i suggest running most of the lines through the heat ducts. It sounds dumb probably not to code 😆 but i stopped having frozen lines
@@ktanner11 thanks for the tip but I'm in AZ. Just a few nights below freezing.
It's worth mentioning the growth in length in hot water runs. Support the pipe every chance you can.
Good point I've not seen anyone say anything about expansion and contraction so I was just going to leave a bit of slack in th lines to compensate. Thanks for the tip
I adopted Wirsbo 25 years ago for floor heating and found it quite expensive yet effective and durable. In honesty I dont think you are giving Zurn a fully fair shake as far as flow. With direct runs from a manifold with a 3/4" inlet, I have ZERO problems plumbing 1/2' home runs from each fixture to the manifold. Short of some sort of massive 5GPM use, Zurn home runs do fine. the only branches I really use in a system are a toilet from a bath sink, and a dishwasher from a kitchen sink. Where DIYers and some plumbers run into flow problems with Zurn fittings, is when they branch multiple fixtures from the same line or trunk. By using home runs to a manifold you use more tubing with Zurn which is OK because it is cheaper per foot. At the same time, with home runs of modest length to a well fed manifold you save on fittings. In my view, there are only two drawbacks in using the Zurn System: the close quarters problem you mentioned with the tool, and inconsistency in Zurn Pex ring quality.
just what I wanted to know and well done, simple and clear.
Great demonstration about the expander in about using the heat gun to speed up the contraction thank you
I re-piped my attic with type b pex. I was able to get a cinch crimper off eBay for less than $20. Rings and fittings were available at the local big box store cheap.
It has worked well for me for the last 10+ years, no problems for a one time job.
I am in South Texas, so the cold was not an issue.
$250+ for tools for one job is excessive in my view.
For a pro who will use the tool for years, the cost of the tools is secondary to best productivity.
They both seem to be good systems.
could have had the tools for 80 dollars
Thanks for the great info. I just had a plumber install pex A on my mobile in Maine and he ran the pipes below the underbelly. This of course needs to be fixed somehow because of freezing. Perhaps someone can answer a question on if you can use heat tape/cord on the exposed PEX A or will foam pipe insulators be enough? I can't for the life of me understand why I paid $100/hr to for this knuckle head, who came recommended and had lovely pics on facebook of his plumbing work, to get a amateur plumbing job with the easiest materials to use. He didn't even have to cut through floor joists to run pipe to the kitchen from the other end of the trailer. Thanks for any help you can offer. Cheers!
I was wondering about heat tape as well.
Nice video. Thx for the info and explanation!
this is very helpful. Thank you
I prefer type b crimp fittings, I trust a mechanical crimp more than the memory contraction on type a. My new house was built with type a so we will see how long it lasts.
Types of PEX tubing (A, B, C).
Choosing the right type and brand for your project.
-What are the differences between common PEX brands?
-Is one brand better than the other?
-Which type of PEX should I use for my project?
Classification of PEX by manufacturing process
Regardless of brand, there are only (3) main manufacturing processes used to produce PEX tubing:
-Peroxide method (used to make PEX-A tubing)
-Silane method (for PEX-B tubing)
-Irradiation method (for PEX-C)
Contrary to the popular belief, A, B and C are not grades of PEX. These letters are used merely to identify the manufacturing process and have nothing to do with quality or performance ratings of the end product except as explained further in text.
In fact, all of the above have to adhere to the same standard:
-Pressure and temperature ratings
-Minimum bending radius
-Pipe wall thickness and ID/OD dimensions (subject to manufacturing tolerances)
Excellent, excellent, EXCELLENT. I came here with a bias toward PEX type B, but now I think you have made a compelling case for type A, and I will seriously look into that further. Subscribed! THANK YOU!!!
So glad you found this helpful! And thanks for subscribing - we’ve got more videos coming soon.
Great video planning to change my line from the water meter to the house
Pex A is all I’ve used and that’s what my house is plumbed with.
Sizing is definitely an issue. We see new homes with 3/4 main runs, which may have worked with copper, but PEX is smaller on the inside diameter. The type A with full flow fittings May be OK, but the type B should Always be run with 1 inch main runs. People complain when the house is busy and doing the dishes, washing machine, and taking a shower, the pressure goes down. I've seen million dollar homes with this problem due to idiot "plumbers", and inspectors letting them install it this way.
Brilliant explanation, thanks guys.
Thanks, just getting started, good jumping off vid.
When you said at the end of the video, size your system correctly, were you saying run three-quarter inch pipe off of half-inch copper so you have enough water flow? That is when using packs be
That's exactly what he means
I believe that Zurn also makes expansion fittings for pex-b pipe so that can be done the exact same as pex-a. I also believe that per-b as a higher burst pressure
Look it up it does not have a greater burst pressure...
Very good at explaning everything for a Do it yourself plumber 😊
An excellent, informative video! Thanks! I now recommend Type A Plex!
Pex A is also known for leaching more chemicals especially when exposed to chlorine which is in all city water. Chlorine also makes type A brittle over time so unless you spend even more for a very efficient water purifying system, all those tight connections won't matter. Pex A also has a bad rap for a stronger plastic taste. Overall the type b with the crimp fittings still out performs copper and will be more than most households will ever need. Choose the correct size and flow rates and pressure are not a problem. I went with B and have been very happy.
I was just going to type that too. If one likes cancer then go with Pex-A..
Sure it’s easier to work with but, sure wouldn’t want to be drinking from those pipes.
Also, never leave PEX pipe exposed to sun light and never let it be exposed to fluorescent light. So, make sure it’s wrapped in foam insulation if it’s in a basement setting that’s exposed to that kind of lighting.
You pretty much destroyed the guy and I kind of feel bad for him
If the house is plumbed accordingly with crimp fittings to what the code states. Like 3/4 piping to number of fixture ratio the water pressure is not reduced. If the pressure is less than the plumber/dyi er did not follow the pipe to fixture ratio. Increasing pipe size will not make a difference. Most of the restrictions comes from all of the water savers that are within the fixture. Show a house that is plumbed according both way's and show me that one is better than the other using the correct sizing to fixture ratio.
It's really just a selling point, because the supply lines are smaller than the reduction of the fittings. So you are correct
My house has half inch copper pipes. I'm in the middle of changing it all to 3/4" all the way up until the fixtures. Will upgrading the size to 3/4 give better flow?? I hope so. All though it goes back down to half inch for each fixture
@@mattshorsemanship7003 you should be able to get around 12 to 15 GPM out of 1/2 inch copper pipe, and around 22 to 25 GPM out of 3/4 copper pipe ,alittle less out of PEX , but your faucets or shower can't handle that much water flow.
@@mattshorsemanship7003 According to code the most you can run is up to 4 fixtures per 3/4 inch line. So if you run a 3/4" line across the house you can branch off to every bath or kitchen or whatever with 1/2 as long as it does not exceed the fixture load per 3/4 " line, if the fixture load exceeds that then you would run 3/4" to the first drop or branch of the bath or whatever you going to then down 1/2". I plumb this with pex, cpvc, and even copper when it was cheaper back then and it all has the same pressure and or volume for each product. Like I mentioned before if you follow the 3/4" per fixture load no problem.
@@jwblount7802 it depends on how long of run you have by code 1/2 inch line 40 ft or less can carry 4 fixtures I wouldn't recommend it , but a 3/4 line can carry 12 fixtures up to 100 ft by code. Some inspectors will let you get away with more.
Full time plumbing and I love watching for misinformation but this is spot on advice. I personaly use side crimps since I don't do hardly any new construction. Im in Oklahoma wich is basicaly a 3rd world state lol. Side crimps just get into the smallest spaces or flair it fittings that only require a pair of pliers. Not the twist flair it but the kind that snap called pex lock. Check it out if you aint seen them. I have a milwaukee expansion tool like yours I use for some situations like horse troffs out in the open for winter or well houses.
Great video. Thank you for the comparison.
Matt Risinger tested PEX A and B and A burst first and what kind of leaching between A and B?
I wish the 90 degree had a more gradual bend, because I’m sure that also contributes to the loss in pressure, or flow rate.
Use a street elbow or two 45's
Thank you for the explanation. I will watch your other pex videos.....im in Texas and finally got water(temporarily) after 10 weeks from the February freeze. I don't want this to happen again.
A brilliant explanation and presentation! Thanks very much.
Great info. The Pex A isn't that much more expensive.
Especially when considering the necessary upsizing to get the same flow rate.
@@STARDRIVE And the more expensive fittings for Pex B. Pex A all the way. And don't waste your money on the battery powered expansion tools, the manual tool works just fine at 1/3 the cost. Especially for a homeowner repiping his own house.
PEX-A, if its cold, we just put our hands over it to make it shrink faster.
Super helpful information. Thanks so much.
Very very through, really helped me in my decision. Thanks
Well I install PEX B from Home Depot but she is a SharkBite product but the biggest reason why I install it it's because there's no cash value other than in the brass fittings it's theft proof pretty much
and the new plastic fitting work well on all of my rental installs
My truck was broken into and 3 rolls of pex taken. Can you please call the bad guys and give them the memo. They didn't get it
It's my understanding that there are expansion fittings for Type B Zurn and also tool heads for the Mliwaukee expansion tool. I also heard on another video here that if you are doing recirculating systems (especially hot water) you will want type B as type A pex will erode from the inside because of the chemicals inside water. Not sure how big a deal that is, but hey, here's the video ruclips.net/video/tJI-E6y2DuU/видео.html
For recirculating systems like hydronic heat you use the Orange PEX.
Very informative...thanks!
Thank you for this information it really helped me (DIY’er) to invest a little more into the type A equipment as I have some tight quarters for the runs (think kinks) and no room in a couple places for big crimp tools since I’m retrofitting an older home. Great video!!
The thing I have never understood about these types of videos is talking about the size restriction for Pex type B fittings. Why are you using fittings? The whole point of PEX is that you slap a 90 degree bender on the pex and create a smooth radius turn with 0 fittings.
thats not the "whole point of PEX" 🤡
So you never use elbows, tees, couplings, valves, and anything else? You simply have pipes connected to nothing, going nowhere?
"Tell me you are not a plumber and have no clue, without telling me you are not..."
What's your preference? PEX A or PEX B?
How do u know what type of pex do u have
Your expander head wasn’t spinning
Copper!
I prefer pex a but no one around here carry’s it. I have to order it in large quantities so I can use it on my jobs
Time to erase that video and start from scratch. What makes a PEX expandable is ASTM F1960. AND NOT "A" or "B". There are PEX B available that are F1960. So most of your video is oudated and should be replaced. Because you pros and cons are almost all false.
Thank you so much for this information
I’m going to learn from you! Thank you. Very good explanation,
pipe b will be more available to you the homeowner.
This is definitely true. I recently started a remodel in my basement bathroom and the old coper was a mess so ripped it out and bought the Milwaukee expansion tool after doing my research a few months back. Then come to find my home depot in my area doesn't carry Pex A. Luckily for me we have a plumbing supply store and they carried everything I needed for Pex A
The zurn pex I've seen lately is actually rated for 1960 (expansion) fittings. As is Sioux chief Power pex .. both of these are not pex a .. just sayin
clear explanation. Thanks for educating me.
Excellent information for a DIY person like myself.
Thanks! Glad to help!
your fixtures reduce to3/8 anyway
Excellent video. Thank you.
I changed my old copper for pex B. Left same size, half inch, as original copper. Never have problem with pressure, but I have water well, so my water pressure is always normal.
Cool vid brother. Going to use PEX for the first time for the indoor 'stuff' for an auto-irrigation that uses the rain barrel IBC water first, or it will open a ball valve to use fill the barrels if no rain water. The the float switch allows the 12v (solar) pump to run when water is avail. I always thought "PEX is PEX" . You certainly schooled this engineer. Pipe size matters! You know you wanted to say it.
Great video. In practice, does the 500 psi burst pressure of Type B matter? Seems like the weak spots are the fitting and crimp rings, which don't have that memory/flexibility.
Very informative. Much appreciation. Smiles
Different world in older RV's. I see Pex-a with metal ring clamps. The lead into your video showed that. Didn't see it, need help finding stuff for RV repairs. Other than that, Good video. We did a Pex-b install on my son's home with homeruns to a manifold. That works well for pressure problems.