How to Size Your Water Lines (PEX & Copper)
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- Опубликовано: 3 май 2024
- Quin Williams of Williams Plumbing shows how to size the water lines in your plumbing system. This method will work for PEX, copper, and galvanized pipes. This video uses the 2018 Uniform Plumbing Code.
Link to Table 610.3: imgur.com/a/TjxUSem
Link to Table 610.4: imgur.com/a/imvK2LL
0:00 Introduction
1:35 How to calculate the total fixture units
3:12 How to calculate the developed length of the most remote outlet
4:17 How to calculate the elevation of the highest fixture
7:03 The 75% method
7:27 How to size the hot water branch
12:02 How to size the cold water branch
16:07 How to upsize for PEX B
17:07 Please subscribe to see more tutorials!
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Williams is the Northwest’s largest plumbing and civil contractor. We offer a comprehensive line of quality plumbing, civil construction, HVAC, green energy, consulting, and service solutions to meet the needs of just about any building project.
Williams Plumbing & Heating, Inc.
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Bozeman, MT 59715
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www.willplumb.com/ 
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This is our first video that uses so many charts and diagrams - did you find our illustrations helpful? What can we do better for future videos? Thanks for watching!
super helpful
@@christlucca6695 Good! Appreciate the feedback.
Very helpful thank you! What about if you are using a manifold, I've been looking to buy one and they are pretty much 3/4" or 1" inlet for hot and cold and then 1/2" going to all fixtures...
@@joelprestamo9074 Joel, what you are describing is called a parallel water distribution system that uses a manifold. There are two types of manifold systems:
+ The “home run” system utilizes a centrally located manifold to individually distribute supply lines to each fixture.
+ The “remote manifold” system utilizes a trunk or main, which services several small manifolds that in turn service a group of individual fixtures.
Which system are you thinking about?
@@willplumb I am thinking about the home run system.
Remember that this is finding the "minimum" allowed size. You can definitely upsize for more flow. I run at least 3/4" automatically from the water heater all the way to the end of the line and branch off to each fixture with 1/2" .
You can definitely upsize for more flow, but for hot water you also want to consider that the larger the pipe, the longer you have to run the tap to get hot water which is both a daily (or more) annoyance and a waste of water. You could reduce this issue with a recirculating pump setup, but then it still increases your water heater load. A length of 3/4" pipe contains more than twice the water of the same length of 1/2", so you'll stand around approximately twice as long to get hot water to come out and you'll waste twice as much water. For cold water it doesn't really matter other than material costs.
Wouldn’t oversizing it make you more prone to pressure drops elsewhere when both run at the same time? “Hey, look at this awesome water pressure when only one is running!” (Add three running at once) “Oh… this is not as cool.”
@Ryan Kramer this is just a guess, but the larger pipe should maintain higher pressure because the water can flow slower through it and still maintain the volume of water being poured from the various openings.
If it follows Bernoulli's Principle, then a faster flowing liquid will produce less outward pressure on its container, while a slower moving fluid produces more.
That should make a smaller line more prone to reduced pressure when multiple valves are open.
@@ryankramer I helped replace all of the water lines in my parents house from galvanized to 3/4 -1 inch cooper all the way through the basement, changing near where it heads up to fixtures.
They recently had to install a new bathroom and I wasn't available so they called a plumber to do it, he chose poorly and used 1/2 inch for the cold water lines. Now they cannot use that shower and any other water fixture in the house or they get burned if someone uses any cold water.
The 1/2 inch water lines shouldn't be that bad, so maybe he fucked up the soldering to much and partially obstructed the pipes or connected it farther away then he should have and flow is extra poor? I haven't had time to check on it so I can try to unfuck his disaster, but either way you have to size your pipes properly.
@@Bound4Earth THIS this is what I'm worried about-- scalding my future tenant if they happen to be showering when I decide to water the gardens. Any advice for me-- I want to put in 2 sillcocks-- there is no exisiting way to water the gardens I am starting in my (new to me) 1890's duplex. Should I tee in before the first fixture lines (1st floor shower) or just after? I'm guessing after (distal to). And do I keep same size-- 3/4 before splitting it to 1/2 and 1/2 for the north side and south side sillcocks?
Hey- this is like the most beautifully put together and well produced educational/informative home improvement video Ive ever seen in RUclips or otherwise. Someone get this guy a full time job doing this.
Thanks, Tom! I appreciate the high praise!
Can’t say less what a master..
Wow, you are a life saver. Taking a plumbing class on line and your explanation is pure GOLD. You explain so thoroughly. It has helped me a lot. You are a master teacher. Thank you, thank you!!!!
planning on replumbing my 130 yr old home. This is immensely helpful thank you
So am I. 135yr old house.
A great description of the process. The repetition just illustrates the detail needed to get an accurate need. Thank you for this video.
Very useful for me. About to run pex in a new house and had not considered this much. Glad I watched this particlular video.
Thank you. Love your pictorial diagrams. Really helps the mind to internalize visual with your word description.
Quinn, this is fantastic! As a DIYer this information is invaluable, much thanks for putting this out!
This has to be among the best, most informative and useful video I have seen, like ever. Nice work!
"Awesome" presentation! So easy to understand that an accountant can get it! Thank you
I love the video and it came at a perfect time for me. I'm sure a lot of people would like to see more videos like this. There really isn't a lot out there explaining how people go about sizing stuff up for their house if they're doing it themselves.
This comment is music to my ears. Real happy that this helped you out!
I am now a subscriber bro! I’m new to rough in plumbing about a month in and I just about got about all the 3rd&4th guy stuff down backings, scabs, setting tubs, drilling backings, ford fittings for service etc. today when I was in the crawl I had to help the 2nd guy (water piper) tee in some lines and I’m laughing because I think I had that ah ha moment like “oh shit I know how this goes now” anyways dude your video confirmed it and explained so much to me that I felt like I already knew and I’m gonna re watch this video over and over, I’m soooo excited.
Love from Seattle!! 💪🏾
These videos are excellent. I am a property maintenance supervisor, and pretty good at it, but I am a Jack of all trades, master of none. It is great to find informational videos that will grow my skill set, and yet are also very entertaining.
This is absolutely brilliant and so well put together. Thank you!
Best explanation ever! Thank you so much. I have probably just gotten "lucky" sizing plumbing on rehabs in the past. Now I know I'll be doing the right way!
What a superb, clear, professional presentation. I am just about to plumb an entire off-grid farmhouse with three kitchens & two bathrooms. This was extremely helpful. Thanks.
This is such a great explanation. I found it very useful. Thank you!
Excellent demo! Great information! Thanks
Your video is so perfect and well explained. Keep up the excellent work
As an industry pro I found this video so helpful. Sometimes I forget why I do things that are just by memory. I would love to have this diagram as a poster in my home office. If I can’t get one screen shots will have to do
Excellent! Answered a lot of questions I have been wondering about.
Thank you! This was enormously helpful. I really appreciate you walking through the math with us.
Very helpful. I am starting a diy repipe and I needed to learn about pipe sizing. I am making my own plumbing out line and using you guide. Thanks man!
Hey, good luck on the repipe project! Glad this helped!
Great video! I wish you would have described how to measure the water pressure though. Total novice to that element and your explanations are amazing.
Great timing going to install a filtration system for my well and was wondering of sizing the pex pipe after it. I'm just running 1inch through the system and will switch to 3/4 to feed the branches.
Nice video. I would suggest adding to the total developed length based on the number of fittings in the system as required by code. The simple method is to add 1.2 feet per fitting. The ICC Codes also require the distance from water main to the meter be add to total developed length. Friction loss through the water meter or any special fixture such as backflow preventer, water softener or pressure reducing valve.
Excellent video on the whole house plumbing.... Someone installed PEX B at this main coming into the house in a repair but bc you'll never see all the fixtures on at the same time the customer never knew it was done. 99.9% of the time it'll never move 22.25GPM through that point. Copper crimp with no tape/protection buried in the ground.
Thanks again for taking the time and the videographers effort. subbed.
Informative illustrations which clearly showed the calculation and fixture stack-up process when sizing water lines. I feel compelled to verify what is in my home before I start two bathroom renovations. Helpful explanation at the end of your video regarding Pex B flow restriction and when to consider sizing up. Would be curious to see some content on the potential issues of not having the lines sized properly. Great work!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for posting this - I am/will use to size my house repiping job.
As a Harry Homeowner, this is very helpful information presented in a clear manner. Just what I needed. I'll pass it around.
PS - Your artwork is perfect for the task. You should sign it. :)
I know now why you said "your favorite plumber". I can not thank you enough for removing such a huuuuge burden regarding pipe sizing and pressure drop. Could you please make a video on how to select the size of the Water heater ( heating element selection) & Water storage tank.. God Bless!
Great video! The illustrations are AWESOME!!! I’m about to repipe my whole house as it currently has about 4 different type of piping, it was built in the 50’s! This has come at a perfect time. I’m working off a .5hp sub pump sitting at about 60ft deep in a 75ft 4” well with 60psi and 10-11gpm. The main line from the pump into the house is 3/4” and about 15ft distance before reaching the 20gal diaphragm tank. In your example water begins at the meter, as I don’t have a meter, where do I begin sizing from? Would it be from the well head, or would it be from the diaphragm tank? The reason for my question is I’m at 15 wsfu for my cold (including 2 hose bibs =3.5wsfu).
That was exactly what I needed! Thank you man!
I'm an old San Francisco local 38 plumber. Cast iron and copper was the norm there. I did a 4" copper waste (Exposed below) and vent system for the telephone company. Priceless. Nice video and I'm sure you're a top notch plumber. I was! ;-))
Tremendously useful. I have galvanized that I'm replacing. Using your information I learned that it is sized well so I can just repeat what I have.
That’s great to hear, Jack. Good luck on your plumbing project!
I'm thinking of doing the same thing, but probably using Pex B so I wonder if simply duplicating the galvanized without upscaling would work. On the other hand, the inside of my ancient galvanized pipes is probably clogged to the point that anything is better and even the pex b fixtures would be an improvement!
Great video 👍just subscribed
Very helpful, and timely, thanks for putting in that effort
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
Here in Mich a 2 family flat has a 3 quarter water meter.we run 3quarter then half at each fixture.if running pex with the insert fittings I just run 3quarter to the fixture and use a 3quarter to half adapter at the fixtures.good video taking the time to teach and share
A lot of great info here. Thanks.
That was really a great video and explanation amazing work. It wasn't what i was looking for as my problem was going from copper to pex but this did explain how increasing water pressure can help get adequate amount of pressure in a different way as well explain why homes are starting to get 1" lines.
Also interesting to note, 1" pipe, along with a 3/4" or preferably 1" meter is absolutely necessary to allow for a fire sprinkler system. Preferably at time of construction but also just to allow retrofit without digging up the yard. Pretty much impossible to make a 2 head NFPA 13D calc work with a 3/4" private main and 5/8" meter.
Great videos… first one I’ve seen that actually helped with the planning. And, one of the areas that I was wondering about was what you closed with - impact of pex -b on flow. But, I do wonder if the pex-b statement is correct because I just had a plumber out who changed out the 1” poly to 3/4” pex-b thus creating 1/2” flow restrictions due to the inserts. My washer fills much slower than before. I wonder if this is why.
This is awesome. Through and explained very well. Thanks
Very well presented. It takes a lot of work to create videos like this. Thank you.
Yes, it does! Thank you for watching, and I hope this helped!
Best presentation I've seen no far.
Awesome video and very informative!
Very informative. thank you.
great explanation and video.
Bravo. great Teacher.
Great video ! Very helpful
Great video! Very good approach, easy to understand!
Good! Thanks for watching.
Hey William! Fantastic video. Very informative. Not sure how quickly you’ll see this, but I have a half bath that I’m converting into a full bath. And also I’m adding a washer dryer on the opposite side of the wall that hosts the vanity. It’s slab on grade… What do I do in order to make sure everything is up to code? Specifically, 1) how would I vent the new washer (tie into vanity or separate? And which drain needs to be higher if they can join?) 2) Based on your video, if the supply line to the half bath is only 1/2” for the toilet and vanity, I will have to upgrade that supply line to 3/4”, correct? Since im adding 4 unit shower and “x”unit washer
**To help clarify, water heater is about 10’ away vertically from 1/2 bath. Anything helps. Thanks man
Great info! Very clearly explained...excited to map out my plumbing tomorrow!!
So helpful! I'm currently in trade school and this refresher was amazing! Could you do a video on sizing Waste and vent also? I always struggle with DWV more. Especially doing the Cross secionals. Thanks!
That's awesome to hear! Thanks for the thought on sizing waste and vent - we're planning a bunch of videos, so we'll keep this topic in mind. Best of luck in trade school. It's a great career.
I’m a second year student at PHCC and HOLY SHIT this video took a huuuuuge burden off my back. Thank you, keep up the great work and god bless man 🙏🏽
That’s awesome to hear. Happy to help!
Very informative! Thank you!
Glad you found this helpful!
that was one of the easiest lesson i've had online great lesson thanks guys
Great to hear! Happy to help.
Love your video. Please do a sample of sizing water supply for public restroom.
Thank you for excellent education!
Of course! Thanks for watching, and I hope this helped your project!
What a very good video and presentation. Very informative and knowledgeable.
Thank you. I'm glad we could help!
A lot goes into these choices. Code is a minimum as you stated, but local codes will also come into play as well as manufacturers recommendations for their faucets (ie.. Grohe brand calls for 3/4” feed on most of their products) which is why you want to have your fixtures picked out before mechanicals are installed so tradesmen know what to prepare for.
Many thanks
This. Is. AWESOME. Thanks!
Well done! Gracias
Love the info and videos, I am not a plumber but these videos intrigue me and provide great info on the way installations work. I love DIY projects and learning about all trades so this info is GREAT! I do have one question...How is the pressure increased in a home. Reason is my parents are looking to build a home out in the country and I am curious on how water pressure is maintained at city supplied water pressure, if they getting water from a well? Is there a pump inside the home that regulates water pressure received upon use of each fixture? how does that work? the home will be a ranch one story home on a hill, where the garage and pressure tank will be on below the home. Should the Pressure tank be installed on the roof to have gravity assist with pressure?
Great video! Thanks for the very clear explanation. I assume all the math would apply when sizing a manifold for PEX? I'm planning on repiping my house because we have major water pressure issues. If I'm running home runs to each fixture, then I think that's easy enough to size those based on this video, but then is it just a matter of adding up all the fixture units the manifold is serving to size that?
WOW!!! Wonderful explanation. The best ever. Just subscribed. Thanks!
THANKS IM LEARNING A LOT FROM YOU.
Another very helpful video. Thank you
Thanks! Happy to help.
Fascinating. My house has been size wrong in multiple places.
Great job. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
I'm glad you made this video. It's really helpful. Except one thing. I have a 5/8 meter with a 1 inch run (I think) and I don't see it on there. How would you calculate that? Would it be the same or close to the 3/4 row?
Hi, it's very nice and informative... Kindly tell me what if use throughout 1" line ... will there be any difference in flow and pressures (cost dosen't matter).
Thanks for the great video. For the developed length calculation, you measure from the meter. Does it make any difference if you have, for example, 140psi from the meter 100' to the pressure reducing valve inside the house, then 60psi from there? Would you still measure the distance from the meter, or from the valve?
Great video! Thank you!
Thanks! Hope this helped.
Great video very informative thanks
Thank you, happy to help!
Great video - The only thing that I was unclear on was how to determine the system/static pressure. How do I determine that?
i wish you were my teacher. great work.
Great put together video. Easy to understand 😎😬
Thanks! Glad we could help.
great video buddy, was just explaining this to a young up and comer, gonna just share your video next time.
Awesome thank you!
Morning, Quin. As a subscriber since last year, I thank you for your helpful videos.
I'd like to double-check some things. I am planning plumbing for a small guest house (~600 sq. ft., 17.0 total fixture units, maximum developed length ~288’, maximum change in height ~6’-8') with domestic supplied from a principle residence. The 1958-built principle residence has a well-supplied pressure tank, immediately downstream of which is a whole-house sediment filter. Ideally, I would like to tap into the system downstream of the whole house filter. (Translating your example to this application, as I understand it the "system pressure" would be the low setting on the pressure tank switch.)
QUESTION #1: How do I factor in the whole-house sediment filter, and what if a UV filter is added?
QUESTION #2a: When the guest house site was prepped, I laid in from the principle residence two 1-1/4” black plastic water lines, the vast majority of which are below frost line and protected by foam board, with the exception of the ends, which are only a foot or so below grade but protected by foam board. It was my intention to use the black plastic lines as sleeves for a water supply line in the unlikely even that the line freezes, breaks, and needs replacement. I have a bad feeling that I will need a 1” supply from the whole-house filter to the guest house, which the 1-1/4” black plastic won’t accommodate. Can I use two 3/4” supplies, one through each black plastic to meet the need?
QUESTION #2b: I could reduce the maximum developed length by ~80' if I tapped into the well line before it gets to the pressure tank, which would also bypass the sediment filter. The trade-off would be having to use a second sediment filer in the guest house, which would carry with it some amount of fixture units. But, would I be committing to having to use one of the 1-1/4” black plastic as the water line, or would there still be the possibility of sleeving a 3/4” line (or 2 taps into the well line and thus 2 black plastics with 3/4" lines)?
QUESTION #3: I see no value in using a manifold for such a small guest house, especially with all but the hose bibb gathered together in one-quarter of the footptint. But, the principle residence will be re-plumbed using a manifold system of home runs. (The line from the well to the pressure tank is 1-1/4” black plastic, but thereafter only 3/4”. It seems clear to me that I will need to replace the 3/4” with a 1” line from the pressure tank to at least the sediment filter. Even if the principle is not re-plumbed with manifold, but certainly extend the 1" to the manifold.) Is there a separate formulation for manifolds with home runs, or is that simply a plumbing layout that unfortunately greatly multiplies the maximum developed distance.
I know I’m asking a lot, but any answers, or pointing me in the direction as to where I can look for answers, would be much appreciated. (At least I try to ask some good ones!)
Gary
A must for DIYers and of course, plumbers.
I'm installing a manifold system. Starting at the meter 3/4" runs to the hot water heater, back to the manifold, then branches off with 1/2" lines running for each appliance. Since I'm not replumbing the one bathroom yet, that system all runs on a single 1/2" branch as it did before, but that will be upgraded in due time.
Great video
Nice video and very informative for the average DIYer. You should do one more complicated, one that includes multiple hose bibs and lawn sprinklers and 3/4” fill valves, multiple shower heads etc.
Thanks for the idea!
Excellent!
Thank you!
I’d be incredibly interested in how to plan for a water filter or multiple types of filters after your main and it’s impact on the math/flow here.
Planning on replumbing my 70’s house and this info has been amazing. Thank you!
Extremely informative video!! But I have a ton of questions now.... Please make a separate video maybe? First, why is sizing to this level of detail so important? What would happen good/bad if not sized this way? What is the pros/cons to, say, run 1/2" from your meter and end up with 1" at your fixtures? What is water hammer and how to size pipe to prevent it? How to size pipe to prevent being scalded if someone flushes a toilet? Ad lastly, how to size pipe if you're using a manifold system(s)? Thanks alot Quinn!!
thank so much ,very useful ,can we use this method for sizing ppr pipe?
Great video! Thank you for this information. Is there any harm in using 1 inch for the main trunk lines (both cold and hot) in an Uponor Logic system where the furthest fixture length is 60 feet? Thank you!
Well done thanks
Thanks for watching!
That's a great setup the problem I see is the city has a three-quarter inch line coming to your meter and a three-quarter inch line running from the meter to your water main. So do you need to dig all of that up and repipe it with a 1-inch line?
Found my goto resource -thx
What if you have a well? What would you consider meter vs branch?
Also why would branch connections be bigger than the ones going to meter?
Excellent video! I have a question : What about the Uponor logic system? Would you desigh it the same way?
I pray for the best for you and your family. Thank you and take care.
3/4 to the last branch for residential homes is a good rule of thumb to pass inspection
Great video! Very logical and simple. Thank you. Do we need to account for hose bibbs?
Yes, and I have similar question-- I did see at 2:00 1st one is 2.5, each addtl is 1.0.
I am looking to install 2 sillcocks (hose bibs/ spigots) into my 1890's brick duples that has had no outside water access (nothing to water the gardens I am making). I am wondering if I can tee off from the first 3/4 line from the meter. I am NOT a plumber, but I think I can do either 1/2 OR 3/4" from either that spot, or just distal to the 1st floor shower 1/2 inch lines.
Very interesting. I never knew that sizing and math had anything to do with piping. Now I know; IT DEFINITELY DOES! I wish you were local. We live in southern California; do you send a team to that area for re-piping? My daughter has her 3rd slab leak, and she's considering a re-pipe of her home.
Well Done...
Excellent! 🇨🇦👊