I never knew the bell housing had to be centered up like that...that top loader 3 spd looks like the same one l had in a 70 F-100...solid transmission - l used it in 3 different trucks with 302 V8 & 300 straightline 6...only problem l had to use the same starter housing (different from automatic transmission) when l would cobble up a starter for it & the bushing was worn to where it wouldn't hold the armature exactly true & that would give trouble in the morning with excessive moisture in the atmosphere (south Florida) the other thing was the first,/reverse shifting arm bushing had wear & l had to catch it just right...l actually prefer the 300 straightline 6 over the 302 V8 & the 6 liked the stick shift transmission - the V8 was happy with either stick shift or automatic
I just put one in a 68 roadrunner. It was way off. After an hour of fine tuning I got it down to about.0005. It’s definitely worth taking the time to dial it in.
TKX... Great !! Looking forward to you taking it out for a test drive and your opinion. Thinking about installing one in my 74 Barracuda. Supposed to be a bolt-in with only a bell and clutch change, plus driveshaft. Thanks for the video. Mike
I didn't even know that was something to take into consideration. I just assumed you just bolt on the bell housing and then bolt the transmission onto that.
THAT'S REALLY FAROUT .. HECK BACK IN THE DAY WE JUST PUT THE PILOT BEARING IN THE FLYWHEEL ,LINE UP THE PRESSURE PLTE AND CLUTCH ,WITH A LINE UP TOOL AND BOLT THE TRANNY EZ-PZ . I SWEAR THESE NEW PARTS SEEM TO BE SUBSTANDARD THAN THE OLD OEM PARTS. THANKS FOR SHOWING AN OLD FART SOMETHING NEW.
Your most welcome! These new transmissions are designed quite differently and while they will handle much more power they are much fussier about being perfectly lined up.
This of course assumes that when mounted, the transmission is in the dead center of that hole. That it's mounting bolts are on a circle concentric to the machined inside of the hole where the dial indicator is measuring in the bell housing itself... We would also be operating under the assumption that the main shaft of the transmission runs in the exact center of the transmission mount in the transmission itself... And then of course one must assume that the surface of the bellhousing plate is a perfect tangent to the drive shaft. Same with the mounting surface of the transmission being tangent to shaft through the tranny....😉 I would say that without measuring those things as well, one really doesn't know.
Well I guess the transmission manufacturer has more faith in its modern machining practices than it does in the engine machining from 30-50 years ago. I've had engines with as much as 030" disparity between the the crank and the locating dowels. That's the misalignment that this process is trying to catch.
Hi 👋 got rid of the auto and put a T5 box on my 65 mustang, due to my after market manifolds & H pipe I had to alter my handbrake bracket to fit and work upside down to provide clearance for the H pipe which wanted to be right where the bracket was 👍
That's sort of how you measure it on the old 230 OHC Jeep engine. Leave the bolts loose enough to tap the bell housing into perfect alignment, tighten the bolts, drill through the bellhousing into the block and knock in dowels in the new holes. Everything old is new again.
i just came across your video and I am getting ready to do a T5 conversion on my mustang-Other videos I’ve seen of similar content, the readings are divided by 2, but you don’t seem to do that here-Reason? Thanks for the content!
I do halve or divide by two also. I probably wasn't clear enough on that. Whatever your total run out is ( say .017 ) halve that to give you .0085. In that case use a .007 offset dowel and it will get you within the .005 spec. Hope this helps
Hi Kiwi, if the left measurement was 6 thou to the left then wouldn’t you expect the right measurement to be about the same (7 thou ) in the same direction as the entire bell housing is off centre. Would that mean that it is 6-7 thou as opposed to 13 thou off centre? Love the content.
You'd kinda think so but no. If you zero'd the dial gauge on one side and then measured on the other you'd get .013 I typically zero at 12oclock and read around. The dial indicator is not centered on the crank and that's why you have to do the adding and subtracting of the readings. It's a bit hard to explain here but trust me it works and is the correct way to do it. The first one I did I spent a while on the ph with Tremec getting my head around it as it didn't make sense initially. Then I had an "aha" moment when it clicked
Kiwi I love your videos. So knowledgeable. You need to improve audio. I used to work in recording and the inconsistencies of your audio drives me nuts.
Well I never knew that. Meaning to say I would've turned an $8,000 box of pure muscle into a shaft flexing, tooth spitting, roller rooting wimp of a transmission, over
Well that's quite the description of a TKX 😂. Tremec are very clear about the alignment deal. I even chatted with American Powertrain on the QT about just how important is it really?? They were very clear that it's a must do procedure and while it won't turn it into a wimp of a transmission if you intend to put any mileage on the trans it will come back and bite you eventually if you don't align it!!
@@SeriousSchitt I don't think so but I don't see much 4wd stuff so take take that as a fact. I'd reach out to American Powertrain or Modern Driveline and check with them.
I didn’t check the run out in my bell housing when installing my TKX in my 1970 el Camino. Had a Muncie before. Ended up not wanting to go into gear perfectly smooth regularly, especially when you were really getting on it. Nobody in my area seemed to think it was an issue, but I knew it was screwy and it was my fault. Do yourself a favor and take that part of the installation serious. It’s not fun rolling around on a floor for hours just to do a big job wrong. Then do it again.
It's these details that make a huge difference in the life and quality of a build... well done! Great explanation!!!!
Thanks for keeping it simple and showing exactly how this is measured. Proper primer.
Your most welcome, glad it made sense! Not sure what your proper primer comment is about?
Sounds like he was saying it was a good tutorial. 👍
GREAT INFO Thanks for showing this so many people think you just stuff the new trans in and power shift away .
GOD BLESS
Rick
Your most welcome. There's so many things can trip you up in this hobby. Keep watching there's plenty more tips and tricks come!
Good video Kiwi, keep the content coming 👍🏻
I never knew the bell housing had to be centered up like that...that top loader 3 spd looks like the same one l had in a 70 F-100...solid transmission - l used it in 3 different trucks with 302 V8 & 300 straightline 6...only problem l had to use the same starter housing (different from automatic transmission) when l would cobble up a starter for it & the bushing was worn to where it wouldn't hold the armature exactly true & that would give trouble in the morning with excessive moisture in the atmosphere (south Florida) the other thing was the first,/reverse shifting arm bushing had wear & l had to catch it just right...l actually prefer the 300 straightline 6 over the 302 V8 & the 6 liked the stick shift transmission - the V8 was happy with either stick shift or automatic
Yeah it's must do not a nice to do.
Yeah that’s only for these transmissions when you buy one the directions tell ya
It matters for the warranty! Thank you for saying that.
"That's the facts Jack " as Bill Murray so eloquently put it😂😎
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 now I have to watch Stripes! 😂
Great info about the tolerances, Tony sent me!
Thanks man
Great information there mate, i never realized it had to line up like that. Thanks for the great explantion.
Your welcome. Thanks for watching
I just put one in a 68 roadrunner. It was way off. After an hour of fine tuning I got it down to about.0005. It’s definitely worth taking the time to dial it in.
Great information........well done.
Excellent. Some not so common knowledge.
Great video,thanks
TKX... Great !! Looking forward to you taking it out for a test drive and your opinion. Thinking about installing one in my 74 Barracuda. Supposed to be a bolt-in with only a bell and clutch change, plus driveshaft. Thanks for the video. Mike
It's a great conversion, to get the most out of it you really need to drop the rear axle ratio to 3.50 3.80 or so.
I didn't even know that was something to take into consideration. I just assumed you just bolt on the bell housing and then bolt the transmission onto that.
Yup these 5 and 6 speeds will handle a lot more hp but correct set up is crucial. No free lunches as they say
Very cool, did not know that!
Unfortunately there's quite a few shops that also don't know that or just don't believe it's necessary.
Good to see some All Blacks gear 👍
Not really a "Kiwi" if ya don't support the AB's eh
THAT'S REALLY FAROUT ..
HECK BACK IN THE DAY WE JUST PUT THE PILOT BEARING IN THE FLYWHEEL ,LINE UP THE PRESSURE PLTE AND CLUTCH ,WITH A LINE UP TOOL AND BOLT THE TRANNY EZ-PZ .
I SWEAR THESE NEW PARTS SEEM TO BE SUBSTANDARD THAN THE OLD OEM PARTS.
THANKS FOR SHOWING AN OLD FART SOMETHING NEW.
Your most welcome! These new transmissions are designed quite differently and while they will handle much more power they are much fussier about being perfectly lined up.
This of course assumes that when mounted, the transmission is in the dead center of that hole. That it's mounting bolts are on a circle concentric to the machined inside of the hole where the dial indicator is measuring in the bell housing itself... We would also be operating under the assumption that the main shaft of the transmission runs in the exact center of the transmission mount in the transmission itself... And then of course one must assume that the surface of the bellhousing plate is a perfect tangent to the drive shaft. Same with the mounting surface of the transmission being tangent to shaft through the tranny....😉
I would say that without measuring those things as well, one really doesn't know.
Well I guess the transmission manufacturer has more faith in its modern machining practices than it does in the engine machining from 30-50 years ago. I've had engines with as much as 030" disparity between the the crank and the locating dowels. That's the misalignment that this process is trying to catch.
Hi 👋 got rid of the auto and put a T5 box on my 65 mustang, due to my after market manifolds & H pipe I had to alter my handbrake bracket to fit and work upside down to provide clearance for the H pipe which wanted to be right where the bracket was 👍
Yeah, everything you change changes something that's changes something else. That's Hot Ridding😄
That's sort of how you measure it on the old 230 OHC Jeep engine. Leave the bolts loose enough to tap the bell housing into perfect alignment, tighten the bolts, drill through the bellhousing into the block and knock in dowels in the new holes. Everything old is new again.
Hadn't heard of that but it sounds like it was done for the same reasons
i just came across your video and I am getting ready to do a T5 conversion on my mustang-Other videos I’ve seen of similar content, the readings are divided by 2, but you don’t seem to do that here-Reason? Thanks for the content!
I do halve or divide by two also. I probably wasn't clear enough on that. Whatever your total run out is ( say .017 ) halve that to give you .0085. In that case use a .007 offset dowel and it will get you within the .005 spec. Hope this helps
Hi Kiwi, if the left measurement was 6 thou to the left then wouldn’t you expect the right measurement to be about the same (7 thou ) in the same direction as the entire bell housing is off centre. Would that mean that it is 6-7 thou as opposed to 13 thou off centre? Love the content.
You'd kinda think so but no. If you zero'd the dial gauge on one side and then measured on the other you'd get .013 I typically zero at 12oclock and read around. The dial indicator is not centered on the crank and that's why you have to do the adding and subtracting of the readings. It's a bit hard to explain here but trust me it works and is the correct way to do it. The first one I did I spent a while on the ph with Tremec getting my head around it as it didn't make sense initially. Then I had an "aha" moment when it clicked
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 thanks mate, I’ll use your technique soon, I’m putting a 6 speed tremec behind a 429 in my galaxie.
Kiwi I love your videos. So knowledgeable. You need to improve audio. I used to work in recording and the inconsistencies of your audio drives me nuts.
Yeah sorry about that, gotta get with it and get some mics
Acceptable to me. 👍👍😎
Well I never knew that. Meaning to say I would've turned an $8,000 box of pure muscle into a shaft flexing, tooth spitting, roller rooting wimp of a transmission, over
Well that's quite the description of a TKX 😂. Tremec are very clear about the alignment deal. I even chatted with American Powertrain on the QT about just how important is it really?? They were very clear that it's a must do procedure and while it won't turn it into a wimp of a transmission if you intend to put any mileage on the trans it will come back and bite you eventually if you don't align it!!
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 Gotcha. Are these things able to mate up to a transfer case for 4wd application, do you know?
Thanks.
@@SeriousSchitt I don't think so but I don't see much 4wd stuff so take take that as a fact. I'd reach out to American Powertrain or Modern Driveline and check with them.
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 Thanks man.
I didn’t check the run out in my bell housing when installing my TKX in my 1970 el Camino. Had a Muncie before. Ended up not wanting to go into gear perfectly smooth regularly, especially when you were really getting on it. Nobody in my area seemed to think it was an issue, but I knew it was screwy and it was my fault. Do yourself a favor and take that part of the installation serious. It’s not fun rolling around on a floor for hours just to do a big job wrong. Then do it again.
Have you done it now?
Maybe you can show us the turnpike cruiser and that MEL engine
Planning to do that, it's a cool car