I have been binge watching your channel since I found it about a week ago. I’m really enjoying it, and I agree, longer videos with more technical detail would be much appreciated. One thing though, I hate concentric slave cylinders! Hard to bleed and a monumental pain to replace if they fail. Another fine design by ‘Bastards Incorporated’.
Way to go Sir! Nice “stock looking job!” This man is Tops, been watching you Sir, had seen you “found” you through your buddy and mine UTG. I follow him, ha ha had watched him fudge-up the name of your shop “Kiwi’s Custom Classics” he messes with you, obviously you guy get along so well like buddies or as said “mates” So, looking here, I remembered you had re-fabricated the cross member and re-bent the hydro line for the brakes. All looks so dam good Sir, can’t believe the shops attending to details so perfectly? Amazing “stock looking” fab work, that’s what I wish for my old “63” Chevy c-10 for sure! I’m thinking this Spring I’ll be looking to get down South to get something done for my truck Sir. I’m master mechanic on jets from USAF. I’m not a fabrication expert, I need to get with you, I need new floor, rust to attend to on my old “63” C-10… Can that be arranged with your team or better yet, “Yourself?” Personally I wish you’d be the one over the shoulder of the fab. Reason, is I want your perfection like on that custom Ford of yours, just an incredible imagination and the work is out of this world! The KW3000? Forget the designated name, sorry.. “Black Beauty” You’d done so many awesome stock looking things, love the integration you perform!.. I wan this, can you provide a new floor for my truck, and possibly more in fab for the future of my old ride? I’ve got pics I’d love to share Sir.. I’m looking for someone and don’t mind my travel to someone who’s enabled to do this in a perfect way like stock and difficulty in seeing that it’s not new or the way it should be done.. like “stock or new”..I think you understand my lead-in here. I’m an older gentleman retired and wish to have my old soul of the truck alive and reinvigorated looking the part Sir. I’ll be in touch, love watch you and UTG, you guys are good for on another. Great buddies for sure😅 See-ya😊
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 Thanks much, I’ll certainly be doing much to this old “63” 50k and counting, not hard to do. And, I’m my own mechanic so that’s money in parts, but some things I’m not versed in performing so I’ll be in que.. I’ll be needing a new floor I’m thinking in this truck and want it to be “perfect” and I’ll also be wanting more as I’m in love with how that old “black beauty” Ford of yours looks stock in manufacturing.. “perfectly done”.. That’s the work I wish done, like your “Black Beauty Custom Ford” nice fab… Thanks, I’m retired military with benefits from service and was “Jet Engine Technician” then USAF... Now I turn wrenches on this old “63” Chevy. I’ve got a fresh 383 btw from a company out in Washington State. “Hot Rod Company”… I’m fixing things which are not up to standards and never done correctly. I.E. Valve train geometry is way off.. and other things…Drunk Monkeys put it together, ha ha.. I think they get a bullet proof lower end {rotating assembly} then complete budget mechanics whatever build-it up.. So, that engine I put 10,000.00+ for it to be built to “standards they hold”… I want your standard performed on “Black Beauty”.. Can I get that from your shop? I know perfection costs, I’m asking if you’re shop can do like it was your vehicle? I’ll have to travel, and don’t mind that.. but I wish to know more prior of course because this old truck is as important as your vehicle.. So,… Maybe, I’ll get in que, soon.. I’ll be calling in future, can’t say exactly when Sir.. But I’m very interested in the content posted. I feel your shop may be abl to be in my help list of things I’m not versed in doing. Thank you for all you do on old classic vehicles, loved the old El Camino which was over heating and charging problem. Cables and temp probe inaccurate..
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 on in bell housing hydraulic slave cylinder, when you you turn the flywheel, you have to replace what was removed from the flywheel with a shim. If you didn’t, the pedal would engage/ release near the floor board. I generally used a .060 which was the thickest you could get. This is the tru way to adjust hydraulic slave cylinder.
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 In short when you resurface a flywheel, you need to replace what you remove, via a shim between the crankshaft and flywheel, most apparent on hydraulic slave cylinder. The pedal would engage or release near the floor board if you didn’t use a shim. In retrospect, when you engage the clutch, you are also taking up the slack in the crankshaft.
I hear that the throwout bearing clearance is for the service life of the clutch. Apparently as the clutch wears down the "fingers" will come closer to the bearing.
I see a smaller Kiwi in the shop with Tony's arm DNA in its beak. Oh, and as for the offset dowels. It's a Ford thing. You'd have thought a six bolt SBF block wouldn't need "redoweling", but no. Good Job Mr Kiwi.
I am just wondering what is the usually cost without any tunnel modification for this type of job? I want to get one put into a manual 4speed big block on a 1971 chevelle. Do you have to change the bell housing and if you don't change the factory bell housing do you still have to do these measurements on the alignment of the bell housing?
Not sure if they have an adaptor to mate the TKX to factory BB bell housing, either way you still have to align the the bell housing. The alignment issue is in the block, the dowels are rarely in spec to the crank. Modern engines are machined to much closer tolerances than the old school engines. Costs vary depending wether you get a hydraulic clutch set up and what kind of horsepower your making. Should be somewhere 5-6 k all in
Kiwi how do you know the centre line of the crank & gearbox are true ? From the nose of the crank to the tail of the output shaft ,in both horizontal & vertical plane
That's a good question, I've always assumed that machining process on the block and the trans case ensured the front and rear faces were perfectly perpendicular to to the centerline of both. But now that you bring it up that could well be a pretty optimistic assumption........ I'm going to check with a very good machinist friend of mine and get back to you!
They were measured in 1/16's of an inch not Thousand's!! Totally different design of transmissions though to be fair. The Tremecs are handling way more power
On the modern crop of engines the machining is far more accurate. It's all computerized and the manufacturers know how accurate it needs to be to meet the modern HP levels and the far longer warranty periods.
Hey guys, a few of you have been asking for more detail and a bit longer vids so here goes. Hope you find this informative, let me know!
Kiwi you're awesome.
Well thanks!!! Just trying to do it right!!
Thanks
I have been binge watching your channel since I found it about a week ago. I’m really enjoying it, and I agree, longer videos with more technical detail would be much appreciated. One thing though, I hate concentric slave cylinders! Hard to bleed and a monumental pain to replace if they fail. Another fine design by ‘Bastards Incorporated’.
Well yeah it's a big job to change one but the longevity seems pretty good. Glad your enjoying the channel!!
Proper external release is far better. You still need the check bearing height however with modified parts.
There's arguments for and against, I like em!
Way to go Sir! Nice “stock looking job!” This man is Tops, been watching you Sir, had seen you “found” you through your buddy and mine UTG. I follow him, ha ha had watched him fudge-up the name of your shop “Kiwi’s Custom Classics” he messes with you, obviously you guy get along so well like buddies or as said “mates” So, looking here, I remembered you had re-fabricated the cross member and re-bent the hydro line for the brakes. All looks so dam good Sir, can’t believe the shops attending to details so perfectly? Amazing “stock looking” fab work, that’s what I wish for my old “63” Chevy c-10 for sure!
I’m thinking this Spring I’ll be looking to get down South to get something done for my truck Sir. I’m master mechanic on jets from USAF. I’m not a fabrication expert, I need to get with you, I need new floor, rust to attend to on my old “63” C-10…
Can that be arranged with your team or better yet, “Yourself?”
Personally I wish you’d be the one over the shoulder of the fab.
Reason, is I want your perfection like on that custom Ford of yours, just an incredible imagination and the work is out of this world! The KW3000? Forget the designated name, sorry.. “Black Beauty” You’d done so many awesome stock looking things, love the integration you perform!..
I wan this, can you provide a new floor for my truck, and possibly more in fab for the future of my old ride?
I’ve got pics I’d love to share Sir..
I’m looking for someone and don’t mind my travel to someone who’s enabled to do this in a perfect way like stock and difficulty in seeing that it’s not new or the way it should be done.. like “stock or new”..I think you understand my lead-in here.
I’m an older gentleman retired and wish to have my old soul of the truck alive and reinvigorated looking the part Sir.
I’ll be in touch, love watch you and UTG, you guys are good for on another. Great buddies for sure😅
See-ya😊
Thanks for the kind words. We're booked out close to a year so don't wait too long too get in the que
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 Thanks much, I’ll certainly be doing much to this old “63” 50k and counting, not hard to do. And, I’m my own mechanic so that’s money in parts, but some things I’m not versed in performing so I’ll be in que.. I’ll be needing a new floor I’m thinking in this truck and want it to be “perfect” and I’ll also be wanting more as I’m in love with how that old “black beauty” Ford of yours looks stock in manufacturing.. “perfectly done”.. That’s the work I wish done, like your “Black Beauty Custom Ford” nice fab…
Thanks, I’m retired military with benefits from service and was “Jet Engine Technician” then USAF... Now I turn wrenches on this old “63” Chevy. I’ve got a fresh 383 btw from a company out in Washington State. “Hot Rod Company”… I’m fixing things which are not up to standards and never done correctly. I.E. Valve train geometry is way off.. and other things…Drunk Monkeys put it together, ha ha.. I think they get a bullet proof lower end {rotating assembly} then complete budget mechanics whatever build-it up.. So, that engine I put 10,000.00+ for it to be built to “standards they hold”… I want your standard performed on “Black Beauty”.. Can I get that from your shop?
I know perfection costs, I’m asking if you’re shop can do like it was your vehicle?
I’ll have to travel, and don’t mind that.. but I wish to know more prior of course because this old truck is as important as your vehicle..
So,… Maybe, I’ll get in que, soon..
I’ll be calling in future, can’t say exactly when Sir.. But I’m very interested in the content posted. I feel your shop may be abl to be in my help list of things I’m not versed in doing.
Thank you for all you do on old classic vehicles, loved the old El Camino which was over heating and charging problem. Cables and temp probe inaccurate..
Back in the day we shimed the flywheel.
Why did you shim the flywheel ?
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 on in bell housing hydraulic slave cylinder, when you you turn the flywheel, you have to replace what was removed from the flywheel with a shim. If you didn’t, the pedal would engage/ release near the floor board. I generally used a .060 which was the thickest you could get. This is the tru way to adjust hydraulic slave cylinder.
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 In short when you resurface a flywheel, you need to replace what you remove, via a shim between the crankshaft and flywheel, most apparent on hydraulic slave cylinder. The pedal would engage or release near the floor board if you didn’t use a shim. In retrospect, when you engage the clutch, you are also taking up the slack in the crankshaft.
Ahh ok I get it. I try not to machine cast flywheels if a new one is available. Had a few give trouble within a few months of machining.
I hear that the throwout bearing clearance is for the service life of the clutch. Apparently as the clutch wears down the "fingers" will come closer to the bearing.
Yea it is. Thats why I like to go on the high side for the initial clearance
Great video. Transmission suppliers have come up with some really nice options to retrofit modern, strong, 5 & 6 speed transmissions into older cars.
Love the channel. Keep it coming
Thanks man
Uncle Tony sent me.👊🏻🙏🏻
Welcome aboard
I see a smaller Kiwi in the shop with Tony's arm DNA in its beak. Oh, and as for the offset dowels. It's a Ford thing. You'd have thought a six bolt SBF block wouldn't need "redoweling", but no. Good Job Mr Kiwi.
Yeah Tony got a bit rough with him so Kev pecked him😀. The offset dowels are required on GM and Mopars as well in my experience. Thanks for watching!
Nice tech instruction.
Thanks man
Excellent job !!
Nice install Kiwi, very good explanation on what to look for on the measurements mate.
Thanks mate!
Looking forward to the finish project. Thanks for posting. Regards - Mike
Pretty good video Kiwi, I’d love to have that Tremec instead of a C6
I really like your videos the detail is great but have a problem hearing them.
Very informative 👍 should be a good clutch pedal
Thanks. Yes it's a slick set up!
Q? Did you relocate the tunnel support? Or trim it? I'm in the process of thinking about installing a tkx on my 65.
I am just wondering what is the usually cost without any tunnel modification for this type of job? I want to get one put into a manual 4speed big block on a 1971 chevelle. Do you have to change the bell housing and if you don't change the factory bell housing do you still have to do these measurements on the alignment of the bell housing?
Not sure if they have an adaptor to mate the TKX to factory BB bell housing, either way you still have to align the the bell housing. The alignment issue is in the block, the dowels are rarely in spec to the crank. Modern engines are machined to much closer tolerances than the old school engines. Costs vary depending wether you get a hydraulic clutch set up and what kind of horsepower your making. Should be somewhere 5-6 k all in
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 Thanks ......yeah I am looking at the hydraulic clutch set up.
It's the way to go!!
I heard that the support above the transmission, in front of the shifter hole was a little too tight for the TKX. Did you have any probloms?
It was close! But cleared.
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 thanks
Kiwi how do you know the centre line of the crank & gearbox are true ? From the nose of the crank to the tail of the output shaft ,in both horizontal & vertical plane
That's a good question, I've always assumed that machining process on the block and the trans case ensured the front and rear faces were perfectly perpendicular to to the centerline of both. But now that you bring it up that could well be a pretty optimistic assumption........ I'm going to check with a very good machinist friend of mine and get back to you!
5 thousandths of an inch for the upper end of spec. How far off do you suppose an old top loader could tolerate? The days of stab and drive are gone.
They were measured in 1/16's of an inch not Thousand's!! Totally different design of transmissions though to be fair. The Tremecs are handling way more power
Did (do) manual transmissions installed at the factory go through a shimming process too or are the tolerances tight enough that shims are not needed?
On the modern crop of engines the machining is far more accurate. It's all computerized and the manufacturers know how accurate it needs to be to meet the modern HP levels and the far longer warranty periods.
Pretty good video Kiwi, I’d love to have that Tremec instead of a C6