I have seen these kinds of bushings before, very expensive but I am assuming they are much easier to install given they are 3-piece rather than 1-piece like most OEM?
Great video....Brilliant...I also installed Powerflex bushings on my BMW e60 550i...It's amazing what stability that brings...It makes me feel a lot safer in traffic...
I just finished installing hybrid turbos and inlets and its not even enjoyable now 😂. The rear end flex with just 15lbs boost is abnoxious. Looks like its time to drop the rear subframe 😂. Should be easier than the awd front end oil pan gasket.
I've seen the torch and sledge hammer method on a few of these videos for the E90 chassis... I was wondering if using my torch and an air hammer would be easier?
Awesome video, just one question. Any reason you can't use the torch and hammer method for the diff bushings as well? Why did you decided to use the tool only for those?
Yeah you could use the torch method for those too, but it can be an awkward angle to pound then out. Plus, it's easier on your arms to use the tool, which is why I try to use it wherever I can. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!
Those bushings look like such a superior design vs the oem. And replacement must be way easier as well should you ever need. Any squeaks or strange noises from these?
No squeaks or noises. You can expect some increase in the NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) but I've use these subframe bushings on multiple builds now and to me, the difference is nominal. Poly-urethane bushings are always a go-to for me! Thanks for watching Steve!
I upgraded to solid aluminum rear subframe bushings in my e90 and absolutely cannot stand it. Can you confirm that these aren't obnoxious in the noise department? My car is louder inside that a lifted truck with mud tires now and the only thing I changed was the subframe bushings. I will go back to stock if needed but these might be a good compromise. I really don't want a lot of noise.
Maybe a small increase in inside cabin noise with these, but I'm running powerflex all around on this build and it's still very quiet inside the car. Solid bushings are loud for sure. Good luck and thanks for watching! 😊
I have a F22 with high power (600hp). I've noticed that my car pulls to the left on heavy acceleration. It has a LSD but all with the OEM rear subframe bushes which are also a weak point. I can imagine that these poly bushes are more suiteable for my power level and acceleration issue?
Definitely! Under load, you're bushings are going to absorb that energy and flex, and then your wheel alignment will change when the car is accelerating! Poly is the way to go for a car putting down that much HP!
Yeah I balanced the subframe from the differential, and slowly but surely it goes up and bolts into place! It can be done with one person. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Dang! I don't notice much difference on my builds when upgrading to poly, but maybe the BMW's have a little more sound-proofing design built into the chassis. At the end of the day though, it is a performance upgrade, so if you're looking for factory comfort, factory bushings are the way to go. Just a bit harder to install in my experience. Thanks for watching!
the larger diff bushing is the wrong way round, the washer plate and extended lip on the bush should be on outside rear of the subframe so under hard braking it stops movement forwards, when taking off the line the front diff bushings have the washers upfront to stop the diff from sliding back so the rear diff bushing plate stops it sliding forward, great video tho, have my m3 subframe with all powerflex bushings, great upgrade.
Not sure about the installation guidance, as the pdf from Powerflex says to install the bushing exactly as shown in the video. If you put it backwards, it no longer sandwiches the diff and leaves a metal to metal contact with the subframe. You may have had a newer/older bushing that was designed differently, so at the end of the day, just refer to the instructions supplied in the box I guess! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment Ricardo. Powerflex is the way to go 🤝
Those are a great option too! I'm running full Powerflex on the rear end of my M5 wagon, and the change in NVH is very nominal. Also did full poly on the E46 build and that car was quiet and smooth as can be. So far, so good in my experience! We'll see how this car comes out 😃
@@themaincrunch8773 I think that's the best upgrade to do poly. You will feel a huge difference I guarantee. And no noise increase because there is no "weight" on thst bushing. Good luck!
@Melvin7876 hell yea solid bushings all the way. I went a little overboard and did solid everything 😂 diff, subframe, trans, motor mounts, carrier bearing, driveshaft flex plate everything solid lol. Granted i do track my car but it lives most its life on the street and the chassis is so well built that its not even as harsh of a ride as people swear it is especially when you have quality coilovers that are valved correctly with good spring rates it drives like its on rails.
It's not a cheap upgrade, but the replacement OEM bushings (not including strut mounts) would be $480, so a couple dollars more and you're getting poly bushings. Food for thought! Thanks for watching :)
Very interesting upgrade wish we have those in South Africa 🇿🇦.. I love the content
Thanks so much for watching and leaving a nice comment! 🙏
Ashley Hurley from Koni SA supplies these in ZA🤙🏽
Nice vid - you showed which direction to remove the rear diff bushig
Awesome video! Really helped, where would you get all the torque settings from?
Pro tip: You are meant to lube the internal of the bushing not the pin. Lubing the pin just leaves all the lube on the outside as you slide it in.....
Very nice upgrade Chris. The build is coming along! Dutch regards Nico.
My e91 subframe is getting crispy from being a northeast car, after seeing these a swap isn’t bad at all
Thanks for the video!
I have seen these kinds of bushings before, very expensive but I am assuming they are much easier to install given they are 3-piece rather than 1-piece like most OEM?
Great video....Brilliant...I also installed Powerflex bushings on my BMW e60 550i...It's amazing what stability that brings...It makes me feel a lot safer in traffic...
Great video! Out of curiosity, do you know if e46 M3 motor mounts a direct swap and upgrade for non-M E9x?
I just finished installing hybrid turbos and inlets and its not even enjoyable now 😂. The rear end flex with just 15lbs boost is abnoxious. Looks like its time to drop the rear subframe 😂. Should be easier than the awd front end oil pan gasket.
I've seen the torch and sledge hammer method on a few of these videos for the E90 chassis... I was wondering if using my torch and an air hammer would be easier?
So if we have coilovers we probably don’t need the shock bushing
What mm did you order for the upper shock mounts?
Awesome video, just one question. Any reason you can't use the torch and hammer method for the diff bushings as well? Why did you decided to use the tool only for those?
Yeah you could use the torch method for those too, but it can be an awkward angle to pound then out. Plus, it's easier on your arms to use the tool, which is why I try to use it wherever I can. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!
Those bushings look like such a superior design vs the oem. And replacement must be way easier as well should you ever need. Any squeaks or strange noises from these?
No squeaks or noises. You can expect some increase in the NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) but I've use these subframe bushings on multiple builds now and to me, the difference is nominal. Poly-urethane bushings are always a go-to for me! Thanks for watching Steve!
I upgraded to solid aluminum rear subframe bushings in my e90 and absolutely cannot stand it. Can you confirm that these aren't obnoxious in the noise department? My car is louder inside that a lifted truck with mud tires now and the only thing I changed was the subframe bushings. I will go back to stock if needed but these might be a good compromise. I really don't want a lot of noise.
Maybe a small increase in inside cabin noise with these, but I'm running powerflex all around on this build and it's still very quiet inside the car. Solid bushings are loud for sure. Good luck and thanks for watching! 😊
I hv experience used this material for a long time it disintegrated into fine fragments by itself... better use original rubber
Just curious but why not just replace the whole shock instead of just the upper mount bushing?
These shocks were recently replaced, so I didn't want to buy new ones for no reason, unless we upgrade in the future 😎
I have a F22 with high power (600hp). I've noticed that my car pulls to the left on heavy acceleration. It has a LSD but all with the OEM rear subframe bushes which are also a weak point. I can imagine that these poly bushes are more suiteable for my power level and acceleration issue?
Definitely! Under load, you're bushings are going to absorb that energy and flex, and then your wheel alignment will change when the car is accelerating! Poly is the way to go for a car putting down that much HP!
Howd you get the rear sub back in was it easy to evenly lift with a jack? Can i do it by myself?
Yeah I balanced the subframe from the differential, and slowly but surely it goes up and bolts into place! It can be done with one person. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@TheBimmerBarn sweet thank you bro!
Which bushing tool did you buy?
I just updated the description with a link to the tool on Amazon I bought! Used it for so many bushings already. Holds up well!
I did this type of upgrade on my acura and I get more noise and vibration.
Dang! I don't notice much difference on my builds when upgrading to poly, but maybe the BMW's have a little more sound-proofing design built into the chassis. At the end of the day though, it is a performance upgrade, so if you're looking for factory comfort, factory bushings are the way to go. Just a bit harder to install in my experience. Thanks for watching!
Sir why are u doing bushings and mounts before coil overs 😭
Link to amazon tool seems dead
Thanks, fixed!
great video! do you by chance know if I can put an e90 subframe into an e92?
Yeah! Same part between E90/E91/E92/E93
@@TheBimmerBarn sweet thanks man!!
Also 1 series subframes will work. E81/E82/E87/E88
the larger diff bushing is the wrong way round, the washer plate and extended lip on the bush should be on outside rear of the subframe so under hard braking it stops movement forwards, when taking off the line the front diff bushings have the washers upfront to stop the diff from sliding back so the rear diff bushing plate stops it sliding forward, great video tho, have my m3 subframe with all powerflex bushings, great upgrade.
Not sure about the installation guidance, as the pdf from Powerflex says to install the bushing exactly as shown in the video. If you put it backwards, it no longer sandwiches the diff and leaves a metal to metal contact with the subframe. You may have had a newer/older bushing that was designed differently, so at the end of the day, just refer to the instructions supplied in the box I guess! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment Ricardo. Powerflex is the way to go 🤝
Those rear shock mounts always fail
I went with m3 bushings on my e93 and glad I didn't do polyflex. I can't imagine the hard ride with polyflex. Terrifying to think.
Those are a great option too! I'm running full Powerflex on the rear end of my M5 wagon, and the change in NVH is very nominal. Also did full poly on the E46 build and that car was quiet and smooth as can be. So far, so good in my experience! We'll see how this car comes out 😃
@@TheBimmerBarn so would poly bushings for control arm for my e46 be a good idea?? Was planning on buying those.
@@themaincrunch8773 I think that's the best upgrade to do poly. You will feel a huge difference I guarantee. And no noise increase because there is no "weight" on thst bushing. Good luck!
I did solid subframe bushings and Whiteline diff bushings for my e93. Rear end feels so much tighter and I really love how much better it handles 👍🏻
@Melvin7876 hell yea solid bushings all the way. I went a little overboard and did solid everything 😂 diff, subframe, trans, motor mounts, carrier bearing, driveshaft flex plate everything solid lol. Granted i do track my car but it lives most its life on the street and the chassis is so well built that its not even as harsh of a ride as people swear it is especially when you have quality coilovers that are valved correctly with good spring rates it drives like its on rails.
Lol in rust country you just replace the whole sub frame!!!
Total 577.95 doesn't worth it
It's not a cheap upgrade, but the replacement OEM bushings (not including strut mounts) would be $480, so a couple dollars more and you're getting poly bushings. Food for thought! Thanks for watching :)