You really should be making the control arms as close to normal ride height as possible before torquing down the bolts for those bushing. Torquing them in the relaxed position will cause premature wear. Just putting a floor Jack under the brake rotor and raising it will do the trick.
I'm looking at your channel as more of a BMW mechanic archive. Anytime I need something done, I can always manage to do it thanks to all these uploads. You are a goat fam. so far, 10 repairs I did on my car were all done after following your videos. Thanks again, Chris. Side note, i see what you mean by the vibrations. You get a lot more road feel but, it really isn't too bad. Definetly would benefit on a track for sure. Very sharp feeling precise turns around corners and such. Noticed the difference big time on a roundabout.
So, with these bushings, I do not have to put tension before tightening? I'm having that issue right now, in that the "the thud" sound is back only after 500 miles on OEM.
E90 = sedan, E91 = touring(what you call wagon), e92 = coupe, E93 = cabrio(what you call convertible). And the sway bar diameter is depending on If you have a normal, sport or m-sport under carriage/ suspension package.
$170 for bushings I think is a lot! But I’m sure there is a reason. An other performance bushing brands for e90 to recommend? I’ll probably end up buying them. Do you have stock springs on your car?
I was looking at doing bushings on my 240i but was dreading having to burn/saw them out. a previous video of yours put me on to that tool. literally life changing. I'm going to change every bushing on every car I own now. thank you for this. also, did non M e9x cars all get aluminum subframes? or is that just a 335i thing?
Getting a vibration when accelerating. Replaced tension struts, ignition coils, spark plugs, vanos and flex disk but that didn't solve the issue. Any ideas
If it's a real hard vibration only under harder acceleration, check your drive shaft center mounting bracket. After replacing the clutch, I had installed the center support upside down (rotated 180 degrees). It looks like it is symmetrical and there is no orientation, but it has about a 2mm difference in position. When you install it upside down, it changes the angle of the pivot point for the 2 piece driveshaft and when you accelerate hard, it vibrates very harshly. Took me a while to figure it out. I only mention this because you replaced the flex disk so maybe you took this off.
Did you re use the torque to yield bolts or get new ones, just wondering because the dealer wants $28 per bolt so Id rather avoid that if possible. Thanks
Do you know if this tool kit will work for removing the rear control arm bushing. 335i e90. A control arm I mean spring perch control arm, Bushing that’s in the bottom of subframe where the control arm connects to!! Thanks Man.. I like your channel!!
@@TheBimmerBarn nope, bonded or glued from the factory. My sway bar bushings were creaking, so I replaced them. They were bonded somehow. But my bar was rusting, so I bought a new BMW OEM bar. It comes with the bushings...bonded to the bar. I've never seen it before.
Mmm how come u only have 1 inner tie rod bellow? U really should've done that at the same time as these bushings man, dirt will really fuck up those tie rods in a quickness
I think they came out easy because these arms were recently installed. When it's stuck in, I leave the nut on, then pound on it using a hammer and the appropriate size socket. Just a tip!
You really should be making the control arms as close to normal ride height as possible before torquing down the bolts for those bushing. Torquing them in the relaxed position will cause premature wear. Just putting a floor Jack under the brake rotor and raising it will do the trick.
I'm looking at your channel as more of a BMW mechanic archive. Anytime I need something done, I can always manage to do it thanks to all these uploads. You are a goat fam. so far, 10 repairs I did on my car were all done after following your videos. Thanks again, Chris.
Side note, i see what you mean by the vibrations. You get a lot more road feel but, it really isn't too bad. Definetly would benefit on a track for sure. Very sharp feeling precise turns around corners and such. Noticed the difference big time on a roundabout.
The larger arms are the tension struts. The short ones that you are calling the tension struts are actually the control arms.
Ahhh there's nothing like a great ride on a tight bush.
No Brainer, Powerflex all the way!!
🇬🇧
So, with these bushings, I do not have to put tension before tightening? I'm having that issue right now, in that the "the thud" sound is back only after 500 miles on OEM.
E90 = sedan, E91 = touring(what you call wagon), e92 = coupe, E93 = cabrio(what you call convertible). And the sway bar diameter is depending on If you have a normal, sport or m-sport under carriage/ suspension package.
Yes! and I think I was just confused too because the rear sway bar is the one that has so many sizes depending on options. Thanks for watching 😊
Good job dude
And nice explanations, good video overall Thanks 👍🏽
$170 for bushings I think is a lot! But I’m sure there is a reason. An other performance bushing brands for e90 to recommend? I’ll probably end up buying them. Do you have stock springs on your car?
Very nice stuff Chris. Dutch regards, Nico
Question. Could be the traction struts as a source of wobbling after 65-70 mph (mine is E92 328i xDrive 2013)? Thank for vid by the way!
Get a pry bar and have a good wiggle could be many things really, although it did sort my wobble out.
I was looking at doing bushings on my 240i but was dreading having to burn/saw them out. a previous video of yours put me on to that tool. literally life changing. I'm going to change every bushing on every car I own now. thank you for this. also, did non M e9x cars all get aluminum subframes? or is that just a 335i thing?
I just checked the subframe on my E90 2006 325i and it was aluminium, hope that helps
The AWD models got the steel front subframe. RWD cars got the aluminum one.
I gotta replace just the tension strut. Do I still have to take off the control arm or can I just directly replace it
Getting a vibration when accelerating. Replaced tension struts, ignition coils, spark plugs, vanos and flex disk but that didn't solve the issue. Any ideas
If it's a real hard vibration only under harder acceleration, check your drive shaft center mounting bracket. After replacing the clutch, I had installed the center support upside down (rotated 180 degrees). It looks like it is symmetrical and there is no orientation, but it has about a 2mm difference in position. When you install it upside down, it changes the angle of the pivot point for the 2 piece driveshaft and when you accelerate hard, it vibrates very harshly. Took me a while to figure it out. I only mention this because you replaced the flex disk so maybe you took this off.
Sammich..........now im hungry
great info as always
Everythings look fantastic, but just what happen with power steering wheeel
Good work.
Very on point, thanks mate!
Hi, what are the torque specs? the top arm (the funny looking one) and down arm? (My car E90 2006 325i)
Did you re use the torque to yield bolts or get new ones, just wondering because the dealer wants $28 per bolt so Id rather avoid that if possible. Thanks
I re-use typically, never had a problem.
Do you know if this tool kit will work for removing the rear control arm bushing. 335i e90. A control arm I mean spring perch control arm, Bushing that’s in the bottom of subframe where the control arm connects to!! Thanks Man.. I like your channel!!
Looking at this bushing rn, and yes this tool would be perfect for this job. Good luck!
🔥
Hi Mr Chris will you please explain purpose of inner tie rod boot delete ?
lol I bought the car and it was missing, just haven't gotten to installing it yet! 😂
Why not take the m3 arms?
Fyi, 2011 335xi front sway bar bushings are bonded to the sway bar. I'm not sure why, because I've never seen that before.
Hmm, like glued? It may have gotten hot and melted/fused to the away bar, weird
@@TheBimmerBarn nope, bonded or glued from the factory. My sway bar bushings were creaking, so I replaced them. They were bonded somehow. But my bar was rusting, so I bought a new BMW OEM bar. It comes with the bushings...bonded to the bar. I've never seen it before.
@@TheBimmerBarn Good video though!
I have a e92 will that bushing kit work or do I have to have the press ins
You'll need the press/pull sleeve kit in order to remove the old bushings, but yes these Powerflex bushings will work for E92!
Ok thanks for the quick response do they pull in or press in I can’t find a video to know if I can rent a tool for it
Hey sir! Haven't you done this in the past on your e92 ?
Yes, but I'll never pass up an opportunity to make a good video!
@@TheBimmerBarn great!
Mmm how come u only have 1 inner tie rod bellow? U really should've done that at the same time as these bushings man, dirt will really fuck up those tie rods in a quickness
Where to buy those bushing?
Link in the description of the video!
put high temp grease on the threads so it doesnt break again. not to much, just enough.
The terminology is backwards. The tension struts are the first arms you did, and the control arms are the straighter ones.
You cheated some how. Those ball joints don't come out of the knuckle that easy.....or maybe I just have bad luck?
I think they came out easy because these arms were recently installed. When it's stuck in, I leave the nut on, then pound on it using a hammer and the appropriate size socket. Just a tip!