How to Change a Wheel Cylinder Without Removing the Brakes
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- Опубликовано: 29 июн 2014
- In this video I'll show you how to remove a wheel cylinder without removing the brake shoes. It's pretty easy and can be done a lot faster if you don't have to deal with removing those pesky drum brakes.
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Disclaimer - This product is meant for entertainment purposes only. Your mileage may vary. Do not try this at home. Void where prohibited. Some assembly required. For off-road use only. Slippery when wet. Batteries not included. Do not use while operating a motor vehicle, heavy equipment, cherokee, wrangler, or any jeep vehicle. May be too intense for some viewers and children under 30 years of age. Please remain seated until the ride has come to a complete stop. Studies have shown viewing these videos causes increased cancer risks in laboratory test people. I am not a professional, I have no training, I'm not even particularly good at horse whispering. Don't believe everything that you know. Please keep your hands in the vehicle at all times. Do not tap on glass. Do not eat anything that has been on the floor for more than 3 days. Keep your hands to yourself. Not to be taken internally. Reproduction strictly prohibited. Driver does not carry cash. Objects in jeep mirrors may be farther than they appear. 
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Just replaced the wheel cylinder in my 70 Cadillac and this video saved me hours. It took as long to do thevwheel cylinder as it did to get the drum over the reassembled brakes. Thanks!
Thanks for posting this, I referenced it many times whilst changing the wheel cylinder of my 2002 Ford Ranger. Took me an hour to beat the rusted on drum cover off the drum (no videos about that !) and another 10 mins to beat the rust off the inside of the cover before putting it back on, but without this video nothing would have been possible, cheers Bro.
just a little insight, you shouldn't use petroleum based products in the brake system (even as lube) it will cause all of the rubber components to swell and brake down considerably faster use something like sil-glyde as a lubricant instead.
Did this today exactly the same way on a '94 Ford Explorer XLT. Thank you so much. Probably saved me $300.
Just a heads up @6:02 the piece on the end of the handle that you said is used to remove the post springs, its actually used to remove those 2 yellow springs that you just tried to remove from the post. Stick it on the post, give it a turn and the springs pop right off. The plier end, the end with the hook on one side is used to put the yellow springs back on.
Glad you said that just what I was thinking.
Just saved me a TON of time, pulling both sides and running back and forth trying to reassemble the whole brake system! Thanks!
Thank you!!! I broke a bleeder screw off in a brand new cylinder and had to replace the whole thing. This worked like a charm.. this is the easiest method to get the old one out and new one in.. done in 10 minutes or less.
Very helpful! Evidently your brakes are the 10" variety, mine was the 9" variety. Besides the size, there are at least two other differences: (1) the wheel cylinder on the 9" pushes directly on an extension of the shoes and doesn't have the external fittings on either side of the cylinder, and (2) the brake line comes straight in (no hose) and therefore there is no difference between the right and left cylinders. To give me a little more room to work, I also removed both top springs and then when I removed the 3/8 inch bolts holding the cylinder in place it came out quite easily (I didn't even have to take off the bleeder screw). On the old cylinder, the fittings for the bolts, brake line, and even bleeder screw were 3/8". On the new cylinder, the only difference was that the bleeder screw was a 5/16" fitting.
Thank you Matt for this most useful video! The procedure went flawlessly because of your excellent demonstration!
Dude thank you so, so much! This is going to save me a ton of trouble and money this weekend!
The one end of the "puller" has a notch in it, that end is used to slip the springs back on. Slide the tool through the spring, the notch will sit on the anchor, and pull the "puller" toward you, the spring slides right on. And the other end with the cylinder, on mine as an extra lip, put it over the anchor, and twist it, the lip slides under the spring and it pops off.
The first time I did DRUM brakes, I used screwdrivers, vise grips and needle nose pliers. Buying that multi-tool is WELL WORTH the investment.
David Raba....I was thinking that same thing. Interesting that he didn't know that. hmmmm. lolol.
B Epps I bought the tool when i did my the other day and ended up just laughing at it. Some vice grips are strength are really easy to pull them on and off or a flat head for leverage. Took an hour on the first side and then had the next side done in 10 minutes or less
Thanks that made it a lot less of a pain, I have do this many times. But for some reason it's never been that easy! Thanks again.
Did he do the whole thing without swearing once?
When facing a car repair ordeal. Always make a list of extra profane swearwords. You never know at which step the swearword come in. But when it does, check off that one on the list with a green mark to keep your illusion of progress going.
@@SE45CX Hilarious !
Impossible.
BLOOD... FIRST THING... to get that out of the way as soon as possible... clean rags/band aids/gloves to stop the bleeding. ibuprofen for the headache will have after... during.. the wonderful event
great job....well organized approach & good helpful tips. thanks for posting this. have leaky cylinder on my 75 chev van & watched this just for review. Have done it before but it was 10 years ago
How could I have lived this long without knowing about line wrenches? Thank you!
Thanks for the video! I'm about to change the wheel cylinders in my 67/ camaro using this video as guidance !!
awsome video simple down to the point no bs great job on instructing
Broke the bleeder screw today and had to replace cylinder , thanks for video pretty easy , thanks
Great repair. Thank you. Thumbs up.
Good video thanks for the tip on the vice grips with the rubber hose on it for shutting off the brake fluid
Great video and it saved me a lot of time (and work) by not having to remove the shoes. The only thing I would suggest is to NEVER use any petroleum product on rubber, because it can degrade the rubber, which will cause a leak. Use a SILICONE lubricant instead, as it does not damage rubber.
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BTW: If you happen to have an electric window that is slow, or 'sticks' in a certain spot, the motor/track gear may not be the problem; the window may just need to be lubricated. Lower the window all the way down and, using a can of silicone lubricant that comes with a spray 'straw' , squirt a steady stream of silicone into the rubber track on each side of the window. Start at the top of the door frame and spray down to the top of the window, on both sides. After doing so, run the window up/down a few times and - if the motor/track gear is good - your window will operate just like brand new.
Yall let Messicans up in here? Good video, did my brakes just fine. Thanks
Nice, this video just saved me a lot of time! Thanks!
$$$ Great video, you just saved me some $$$ and time. Easy to do on my 01 Cherokee. Time to do it: 30 minutes. Time to wait for the penetrating oil to get through the rust of 17 years and 155, 000 miles: 20 minutes
thanks for the video it helped out a lot I had to replace wheel cylinders on my Comanche
Nice video. Thanks for the tips.
excellent training
pay attention to this guy he. Will save you alot of time and money, I done what he said on this vid and it saved me $110 and done it in 45min. But I didn't take the spring off I just popped it in glad I watched this, the way I was going to do it, I would have been there half aday, think you so much
I’m about to do mine for the first time. I have a 1966 f250 and I was gonna Pay someone to do this for me out here in Mexico but I might give it a try
you really helped me on this cylinder
Awesome Matt. Thanks, went just as you said.
great job,, im a old man and i thought i was the only one changed that cylander without tearing down the whole system
Thx Guys! This was really helpful
I've got to do a transmission swap I lost reverse in my 2000 xj any tips?
Hey @BleepinJeep I attempted to replace my brake cylinder on my 99 TJ last tonight and got to reattaching the stiff brake line to the rear of the cylinder. I just cant get the threads to line up and take into the cylinder. I know they go in as I attempted it before trying to install. Any advice of tips to get them to line up properly?
Thanks for the video it really did help me replace my cylinder :-]
I have a quick question for you. If the dust cover comes off of the
wheel cylinder and the piston pops out yet no fluid leaks, do I still
need to bleed the brake lines?
Sure am glad I know how to use that drum brake tool.. CORRECTLY. GEEZ
Thanks. learned something new everyday, Aloha
Since you pinched off the brake line did you only have to gravity bleed that one line or did you have to do a bleed the entire system?
Now that I see all that rain, how's the insulation going?
Gotta do this tomorrow, well today on my daughters S10 Blazer.
Just wanted to say thank you. I inheirited my grandmothers 69 F100. No experience with drum brakes. This took a lot of stress off my mind about replacing the wheel cylinder
What’s a good brand for line wrenches?
Thanks! Great video. Also thanks to the person before as I've always been confused by that damn brake tool!!! LOL
GREAT JOB THANKS.
I'm going to try this tomorrow
Thank you !
This just saved me a lot of time on my 64 Valiant. Thank you!
Thanks for posting. It is thorough and clearly explained. I see someone else has already remarked that you shouldn't have used petroleum jelly (Vaseline) in a brake installation. I would only add that you absolutely must start off screwing in the brake pipe (and other things) by hand, and not at once with a spanner (wrench). You mention how important this is, but you don't do it. Just a constructive observation this, not intended to be criticism.
How do I know which sides which when I install new cylinders
Thanks!
I second what Kyle said. Also, I don't understand what the point is in removing and reinstalling the bleeder valve on the wc.
How tf u gunna get the brake line off? the bleeder valve is right above it. Thats why its removed easy access.
Anyone else say “it’s already tight” when he was trying to loosen the brake line? Other than that good video.
Excellent old video
Thank you very much.
With the vice Grip's does it keep your break fluid in the line so you don't have to bleed it so much? Please Let Me Know because i am going to have to do a wheel cylinder on my 97 chevy S-10 With the 4.3 V6 Liter!!!!
I have to do it with the same model year S10 found out when replacing a broken lug stud
For what car model is this?
Think I ruptured mine due to brake neglect.. but changed it out on the side of the road in a pinch. Less than ideal but got me home.
I love it that wrench will keep you from tearing up your nuts, lol.
thanks
Nice video! Thanks!.
mine has a clip that holds the cylinder on so how do I get it to stay back on ...I got old one off but cant get new one to stay on ....it on a 87 chevy celebrity
OOPS!!!! Special tool required there.
dud look like u dun that befor meny time to mack this video and u still have defeculty to do it smooth ley in the video tankx any ways for the video
i had a very hard time with the two mounting bolts and with the brake line. on drives side rear, i made two bolt studs, i cut the heads off two bolts i had ,they treaded into cylinder and stuck out about 3/4 inch. this allowed me to line up cylinder and then remove studs one at a time and replace with correct bolts. the studs kept ever thing aliened also loosened brake line tee connection fastened to rear axel this gave me the extra play to get the line started back into cylinder. this was a terrible day. nothing wanted to go right
dyna friction brand part num 375-54017 375-54016 1988 jeep cherokee from rock auto their part is out of specs. the passenger rear would not go on so i went to auto zone and bought one cylinder .went on in less than 2 min flat . pissed off at rock auto
Do you also have to bleed the brake line?
Yes
finally a video that shows how to do it. as far as the lube goes, why not just use brake fluid?
Brske fluid is not a lubricant
If you get bored, got 4 more of them wheel cylinders that need replaced on my CJ
really wish i would had watched this before removing my brake cylinder. broke off the brake line didnt realize you could get the cylinder off and twist that instead. Doooh
On second thought just take the springs and shoes off so you can inspect them for unforeseen damage anywhere. I swear once you take it apart you'll learn that it's actually pretty simple . 2 top springs one bottom spring and two spring loaded pins that hold the shoes on that's pretty much it and in some cases a automatic adjuster on the bottom which is pretty straight forward.if anyone ever needs advice just respond to this message I'll text you through it .
please text me put shoes back on rear 57 Tbird
An even easier way: Use a large BAR CLAMP in the SPREAD mode and force the shoes away from each other. No spring removal needed that way!
Take the rubber feet off and grind some grooves so it fits the shoes better.
Works OK on 10" drum brakes and larger.
ddd228/Dave in Seattle. Good tip. Ive got 1 of those style clamps
Gotta be careful with that approach. If you spread too much, you may end up replacing spring(s) if you stretch them to being sprung.
7:21 What do you mean theres a left/right side...it just lines up, bolts and bleeder are at the top
There is a left and right side. Brake line fitting is on different side for left and right side wheels. Dumbass
@John Wall just because that's the case on your luxurious Cadillac, doesn't mean it's the same for all vehicles. I know for a fact you're wrong. Go fuck yourself asshole.
If your brake shoes are contaminated with brake fluid from a leaking cylinder you must replace those too. Otherwise that brake will tend to lock up easily.
I got a problem with my brakes, only brake the rear brakes, never the front wheels, in the begin was funny, but not when you drive in highway with rain, somebody knows what can it be? I change front/rear cylinders, front/rear pads, front disc and rear drums, brake pump, install a new booster, the circuits front/rear are connected right., everything! in fact that is a new brake system, but have the same problem, when I "adjust" the rear brakes, works fine just 10 or less hard breaking, but after a few pushed of brakes, the rear brakes block first than the front.
First two attempts at undoing the bolt he was turning it the wrong way..Didn't look to good !
That was probably done purposely... sometimes it helps to tighten a little then back nut or blt off..
Never use anything petroleum based on rubber....only silicone lubricant or alike...
There is no side for cylinder either cylinder will fit left or right.
Why is he shaking so much ?
Why do people replace the entire fuel line when they strip the flare nut ?? Lol just cut the line right behind the flare nut . Buy or rent a flare tool and new nut !! People make things so much harder than need be .
And this is assuming you have rubber break lines.... I have metal lines...
Orion Pax this is a rear axle
Completely wrong way to use the brake spring pliers.
You skipped the hardest part!!!!!!! The drum!!!!
Learn how to remove nuts and bolts
he doesn't know how to use the brake tool .