Thanks for tuning in this week legends! I thought I'd dedicate a video on cutting the transom ply out with a template as it did make my life easy! Next episode we jump straight into laying up the hull with glass to start the rebuilding process!
Hey mate, following on closely. I'm currently in grind out phase of my 19' Caribbean. Would love some more info on how you went about levelling the hull. I was thinking of rebuilding on my trailer but I'm a bit suss as there seems to be a lot of flex now. Cheers 🤙
Hi mate i did my transom in reverse took the outside skin off , that transom would be able to probably take twin 300hp with the thickness of it about double what mine was , great idea for the template i just cut a peice of 3mm mdf but i will remember that if i ever do one again (not likely at 62).With mine i laminated the two pieces together with glass and brass screws after it had set i then laminated the whole transom in glass then fitted it . I used structural ply on mine as i believe that it has the same resins bonding it together as marine ply doesn't look as nice but it is a hell of a lot cheaper but i would not want to be trying to lift your transom into position laminated good video cheers.
CDX ply is best. Its treated so it will never absorb moisture. Marine ply actually isnt treated it just has extra glue and laminates. You just need to let CDX sit and dry out for a few days before you glass it.
Hey mate, thanks for the message! i Hope so, a-lot of weight hanging off the back, so making sure its plenty strong! Learning as we go :) still working out how to squeeze ply together to outter skin thanks for watching
Bipedal Hominid that is not true CDX ply is water resistant, as in it can deflect water that’s why it is used predominately in roofs & walls. No ply wood is water proof, if you want waterproof it’s thermolite or coosa board.
@@AngryMackAdventures Hi mate yes you dont have anything to put braces against the transom timber to push it up against the original outer skin if you have any local boat builders maybe go and ask for their advice ,once the first sheet is in place and set the others will be easy what i would do after the first sheet is in place would be set the second in place and screw it to the first you could either leave the screws in place or remove them if leaving in place plot where they are so you dont put screws from the last sheet into those from the second .
@@AngryMackAdventures I was a Teacher there whilst u and your brother attended! I have a boat as well and ur channel has some great content. Great to see ex students doing very well for themselves!
How are you going to tie in the new transom to the sides and bottom of the hull? I'm thinking some additional structural members connecting the new transom to the gunnels and upper sides of the hull would be something to consider. Then the replacement stringers in the bottom should also tie in to the new transom so that the whole system is mechanically connected if you're going to hang that kind of weight off the back of the boat (not to mention the additional loading and torque when the engines are running). I'm just not sure if that connection can just be done with fiberglass cloth and resin or if some kind of fastener should be considered.
Hey mate, yes the transom is going to be reinforced into the sides of the boat and the stringers! will go through the layup when comes to putting the transom in :)
Does the top part of the engine mount for the outboards, the part that sits on top of the transom have a hook or is it flat. My yammie has a hook and 90mm transom will be too wide for it
Hey mate your first piece of plywood going in should have the bottom and sides trimmed with a radius so the edges and bottom of the plywood fit snug with the transom corners and bottom hull corners Otherwise your plywood wont sit against the transom skin tightly
Hi chase, a-few reasons, thermo is very hard to get at the moment and when its available its in dribs and drabs, the price is quite significant, and the weight, ply is alot heavier, which is what i need! i spoke to multiple shipwrights and they all said to go with the ply so listened to the advice! foam stringers, getting built like a cray boat :)
a-few reasons, thermo is very hard to get at the moment and when its available its in dribs and drabs, the price is quite significant, and the weight, ply is a lot heavier, which is what i need! i spoke to multiple shipwrights and they all said to go with the ply so listened to the advice! 30+ years if boat is built correctly
Thanks for tuning in this week legends!
I thought I'd dedicate a video on cutting the transom ply out with a template as it did make my life easy!
Next episode we jump straight into laying up the hull with glass to start the rebuilding process!
Yeaa!!!
Only found you today and loving what you are doing. Doing the same to my boat after this summer. So helpful. Looking forward to more
Thanks for watching mike! Glad your enjoying the boat series 😆🔥
You saved me a ton of time. Thank you! Glad I found your channel.
can see what looks like set of twin yams in the background of this
Broo did you know the thikness of the balsa core on a floor of a Chekmate starflite?
Hey mate, following on closely. I'm currently in grind out phase of my 19' Caribbean. Would love some more info on how you went about levelling the hull. I was thinking of rebuilding on my trailer but I'm a bit suss as there seems to be a lot of flex now. Cheers 🤙
Hi mate i did my transom in reverse took the outside skin off , that transom would be able to probably take twin 300hp with the thickness of it about double what mine was , great idea for the template i just cut a peice of 3mm mdf but i will remember that if i ever do one again (not likely at 62).With mine i laminated the two pieces together with glass and brass screws after it had set i then laminated the whole transom in glass then fitted it . I used structural ply on mine as i believe that it has the same resins bonding it together as marine ply doesn't look as nice but it is a hell of a lot cheaper but i would not want to be trying to lift your transom into position laminated good video cheers.
CDX ply is best. Its treated so it will never absorb moisture. Marine ply actually isnt treated it just has extra glue and laminates. You just need to let CDX sit and dry out for a few days before you glass it.
Hey mate, thanks for the message!
i Hope so, a-lot of weight hanging off the back, so making sure its plenty strong! Learning as we go :) still working out how to squeeze ply together to outter skin
thanks for watching
Bipedal Hominid that is not true CDX ply is water resistant, as in it can deflect water that’s why it is used predominately in roofs & walls. No ply wood is water proof, if you want waterproof it’s thermolite or coosa board.
@@AngryMackAdventures Hi mate yes you dont have anything to put braces against the transom timber to push it up against the original outer skin if you have any local boat builders maybe go and ask for their advice ,once the first sheet is in place and set the others will be easy what i would do after the first sheet is in place would be set the second in place and screw it to the first you could either leave the screws in place or remove them if leaving in place plot where they are so you dont put screws from the last sheet into those from the second .
@@deezy9622 do they sell coosa board here in aus ive seen it in the states looks like a great product .
D&T Teachers @MDC taught u very well! Great video as always!!
HAHA they sure did mate! thanks for watching
did You go to MDC?
@@AngryMackAdventures I was a Teacher there whilst u and your brother attended! I have a boat as well and ur channel has some great content. Great to see ex students doing very well for themselves!
@@aaronm2742 ahh there you go appreciate you watching!
How are you going to tie in the new transom to the sides and bottom of the hull?
I'm thinking some additional structural members connecting the new transom to the gunnels and upper sides of the hull would be something to consider. Then the replacement stringers in the bottom should also tie in to the new transom so that the whole system is mechanically connected if you're going to hang that kind of weight off the back of the boat (not to mention the additional loading and torque when the engines are running). I'm just not sure if that connection can just be done with fiberglass cloth and resin or if some kind of fastener should be considered.
Hey mate, yes the transom is going to be reinforced into the sides of the boat and the stringers! will go through the layup when comes to putting the transom in :)
Does the top part of the engine mount for the outboards, the part that sits on top of the transom have a hook or is it flat. My yammie has a hook and 90mm transom will be too wide for it
hi Shawn the boat will have a pod extension on the back of the transom!
thanks for watching :)
Hey mate your first piece of plywood going in should have the bottom and sides trimmed with a radius so the edges and bottom of the plywood fit snug with the transom corners and bottom hull corners
Otherwise your plywood wont sit against the transom skin tightly
Hey gary! yes definitely, that will be done in the fairing stage, still got to layup in the hull prior to final trim :) thanks for watching mate :)
why not go with thermalite board do it one and will never rot out again so when you sell it the next fella wont have to do replace transom
Hi chase, a-few reasons, thermo is very hard to get at the moment and when its available its in dribs and drabs, the price is quite significant, and the weight, ply is alot heavier, which is what i need! i spoke to multiple shipwrights and they all said to go with the ply so listened to the advice! foam stringers, getting built like a cray boat :)
@@AngryMackAdventures yeah fair if thats what the experts say good idea
All these efforts and not using coosa?
a-few reasons, thermo is very hard to get at the moment and when its available its in dribs and drabs, the price is quite significant, and the weight, ply is a lot heavier, which is what i need! i spoke to multiple shipwrights and they all said to go with the ply so listened to the advice! 30+ years if boat is built correctly
@@AngryMackAdventures fair enough mate. Sure will last for long nevertheless!
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