It's great to see some of this normal content coming out right now. Support your local neighborhood and specialty markets. Stay the f home if you are sick -elbowbump from L.A. - cheers
Another tip on how to help yourself with putting the wood together is to use a stapler gun and when flush, stable like 3 on the outside. I do this everytime and I get a perfect flush, and I can easily predrill holes, and drill without worrying about it falling or spending time on clamps.
Great video ! Like the drawing it up on paper I’ve always did it that way forever. I learned about putting carpet on with silicon calk. Reason why is we would have 4wd trucks and there always in the woods splashing mud water . Well windows down you know so if it has carpet it just holds the water right to the box . So by putting silicon all over the box spreading it out with a scraper or drywall knife . I just even it out make sure it’s completely covered . Then put the carpet over it I use a staple gun to hood the corners or seams . If you pull it tight staple it we’re you can’t see them and I would round my corners also . They look real good and there water proof . Rounding the corners helps carpet from getting split on the edges by the box it’s self when installing it or just moving it around . It’s also a plus in handling it it your hands under a sharp corner edge it’s not as easy as a rounded one . Then also if something gets spilled on the box or you wanna clean is you can scrub it with a little damp soap and water and not hurt your box . The silicon does a great job of holding the carpet on! I like to do my sides first all the way around the top and bottom last you can see how ever you wanna wrap them most time I do them like a present. I like the way you made the front double wall an just had the hole with carpet on around the subs . I like to countersink my subs round the top corner of the top hole . Stretch an tuck the carpet down in there a little bit then the sub will hold it in using the outside of the lip to hold it . I don’t know how you feel about coating the inside of your box . To me it’s like sound deadening the wood will absorb the sound some. I coat mine with rubberized undercoating that kinda works like sealer to seal the wood off but it’s also acoustic. At least that’s what I’ve seen guys talking about when they build there box’s . It seems to made a difference to me then channeling the port area real smooth like glass really lets the sound come out . I like using a small flare at the top edge of my front corner we’re you extended out 1.85 inches . I would cut the corner then bring the side up flush . That way you don’t have to correct the box or port . I kinda just take out for all 4 corners at the beginning . This way I calculate them in that front port corner would be my flare . I’ve used the old bed rails like angle iron to make braces inside my box before there strong, light, and you can bolt them in or put screws in them .
If you want to paint mdf you will want to consider using something to seal it up with because mdf will absorb paint if you just paint it and not seal it
I’ve been building my own boxes for a while, usually by myself I’ve surprised myself many times not needing help but if your new GET HELP it can get frustrating and a lil dangerous but in the long run you’ll save money gain experience and have boxes laying around for testing or to learn from or sell to your buddy always at buddy prices you want to encourage into audio not discourage cause it does get pricey real quick. Learn the basics then throw your own flare if you like I always leave my boxes unpainted I carpeted I like the nature look
Its a few things i like to ad. Air speed velocity in the port. Thats a big thing that counts alot. Both about woofer perfomance and port noise . Flanged ports. Keep it under 17 m/s . Flared ports. Keep it under 34 m/s.
You don't design boxes by selecting a port frequency first ... if you want the thing to sound musical then you use the T/S parameters to determine the optimum box volume and then work out the port length ( which sets the cabinet resonant frequency) and this correct length ( as determined by the computer) will extend the low frequency response of the speaker smoothly .. until it's roll off.
Another excellent video Rob! Solid tips for box builders. What are your (and everyone else's) thoughts on labyrinth ports versus simple cylindrical ports? Pros and cons of each maybe?
I like slot ports because it’s essentially extra bracing that also performs a task. I’ve also had much less issues with port noise out of a slot port, but that being said I do like the simplicity and ease of use a large round port brings. The round port also looks a bit nicer imo.
I got a question I've never built a box I'm about to build one for my scar SDR 15 I was wondering is liquid nail fine or is wood glue better what's the strongest glue and should I use birch wood or MDF
Wood glue is very strong and often times it can be stronger at that joint than the wood itself if it’s applied properly to flat surfaces. I haven’t got a lot of experience with construction adhesive so I can’t speak to that with a lot of experience.
@@HifiVega you should build the slot port 12" box in the plans i sent ya its the most impressive single 12" box i've ever heard Mark did a video on it 👍
If you were to paint the inside of a subwoofer enclosure or add carpet or polyfill or cotton or insulation to the inside of a subwoofer enclosure will the tuning frequency be lowered
If I wanted to build a sound quality oriented system like say a single 12 ported using a savard hi q, would I approach my box design differently? Like say port area etc if I want the cleanest most accurate sounding deep bass?
A lot of folks do box designs with cut sheets and all the good stuff. Well worth the $40ish they charge. You should hit up Mark from www.caraudiofabrication.com
Hey there, I want to build a down-firing ported sub. I got the Tang Band WT-644F FS - 32 Hz QTS - 0.42 VAS - 60 L Box External Dimensions Width × Height × Depth - 17.72" × 15.75" × 19.71" Material Thickness - 0.75" Net Internal Volume - 1.87 ft3 Tuning Frequency - 32 Hz Port Area - 21.39 inch2 Port Inlet Width × Height - 1.50" × 14.25" Port Length - 24.41" Is this good?
Thank you so much for the videos . I had a question about building a ported box on a space saving budget. I don’t have much room to work with, and wanting to do a ported box with two 10 with the baffle angled(I believe 4th order box) I’m wanting to make the box 10(H) 18(D) and 47 inches long. I have to angle the baffle back to get the sub to fit in a box that’s only 10inches tall. I am trying to possibly port through the back package tray of a 1965 impala. Is this a box nightmare waiting to happen?? Thank you for any help.
Is there a rule of thumb for the port diameter to avoid chuffing or can u just pick an arbitrary diameter and roll with that as long as ur port length meets the requirement as well as internal volume for the sub???
young feezy the port diameter or width does matter and I mostly go off of my experience, but you can play with the sizes in a program like winisd to get what you’re looking for.
hey i'm shawn from barbados i have a audiopipe 15 inch driver model TXX-N1500 and i dont have any specs for it i would like to build a down firing box for it and use in the home theater room but i cant fine the spec anywhere and i dont know anything about cubit feet only feet and inches can can u help me me wit a design
Tbh with you. You could get someone to build you a much nicer enclosure for cheaper than I could. I’d even check out GP Car Audio they’re doing a good job with theirs
I just put a small hole for 10 gauge wire for the box's purpose. then put a rubber sleeve. those terminals are horrid. Tet another thing interrupting my clean signal.
I’m curious how you watched? I’ve heard this before, so now I always listen on my phone with and without headphones as well as on my laptop with/without headphones just to be sure it’s loud enough.
I’m curious how you watched? I’ve heard this before, so now I always listen on my phone with and without headphones as well as on my laptop with/without headphones just to be sure it’s loud enough.
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It's great to see some of this normal content coming out right now.
Support your local neighborhood and specialty markets. Stay the f home if you are sick
-elbowbump from L.A. - cheers
ossumopossum yeah man we can all stay home and still be connected!
Another tip on how to help yourself with putting the wood together is to use a stapler gun and when flush, stable like 3 on the outside.
I do this everytime and I get a perfect flush, and I can easily predrill holes, and drill without worrying about it falling or spending time on clamps.
Great video ! Like the drawing it up on paper I’ve always did it that way forever. I learned about putting carpet on with silicon calk. Reason why is we would have 4wd trucks and there always in the woods splashing mud water . Well windows down you know so if it has carpet it just holds the water right to the box . So by putting silicon all over the box spreading it out with a scraper or drywall knife . I just even it out make sure it’s completely covered . Then put the carpet over it I use a staple gun to hood the corners or seams . If you pull it tight staple it we’re you can’t see them and I would round my corners also . They look real good and there water proof . Rounding the corners helps carpet from getting split on the edges by the box it’s self when installing it or just moving it around . It’s also a plus in handling it it your hands under a sharp corner edge it’s not as easy as a rounded one . Then also if something gets spilled on the box or you wanna clean is you can scrub it with a little damp soap and water and not hurt your box . The silicon does a great job of holding the carpet on! I like to do my sides first all the way around the top and bottom last you can see how ever you wanna wrap them most time I do them like a present. I like the way you made the front double wall an just had the hole with carpet on around the subs . I like to countersink my subs round the top corner of the top hole . Stretch an tuck the carpet down in there a little bit then the sub will hold it in using the outside of the lip to hold it . I don’t know how you feel about coating the inside of your box . To me it’s like sound deadening the wood will absorb the sound some. I coat mine with rubberized undercoating that kinda works like sealer to seal the wood off but it’s also acoustic. At least that’s what I’ve seen guys talking about when they build there box’s . It seems to made a difference to me then channeling the port area real smooth like glass really lets the sound come out . I like using a small flare at the top edge of my front corner we’re you extended out 1.85 inches . I would cut the corner then bring the side up flush . That way you don’t have to correct the box or port . I kinda just take out for all 4 corners at the beginning . This way I calculate them in that front port corner would be my flare . I’ve used the old bed rails like angle iron to make braces inside my box before there strong, light, and you can bolt them in or put screws in them .
If you want to paint mdf you will want to consider using something to seal it up with because mdf will absorb paint if you just paint it and not seal it
Yeah it will definitely soak up paint
This is my next endeavor. Thank you for sharing this! God bless you and your family!
Scott Wright same to you my friend! Thanks for watching
I’ve been building my own boxes for a while, usually by myself I’ve surprised myself many times not needing help but if your new GET HELP it can get frustrating and a lil dangerous but in the long run you’ll save money gain experience and have boxes laying around for testing or to learn from or sell to your buddy always at buddy prices you want to encourage into audio not discourage cause it does get pricey real quick. Learn the basics then throw your own flare if you like I always leave my boxes unpainted I carpeted I like the nature look
It’s definitely a good way to enjoy the hobby. You get a nice sense of accomplishment when it’s all done
That's exactly how I go about designing my enclosures and it works great!
Its a few things i like to ad. Air speed velocity in the port. Thats a big thing that counts alot. Both about woofer perfomance and port noise . Flanged ports. Keep it under 17 m/s . Flared ports. Keep it under 34 m/s.
...thank you very much... from thailand 13 november 2022
I like to cut a few pieces of wood the same size as the port. Then I use those pieces to make sure the port is fitted in properly.
DIY Audio Guy I sometimes do that with scrap wood as well
Same here. Coincidentally I was just doing that right before watching this video lol
Great video 👍🏼Should I build this box for a skar evl 15 ?
I don’t know the required specs for that sub, but if it’s fits sure!
What finish did you use to achieve that look on the 15 box?
Bedliner with a texture roller
@@HifiVega thank you for response
You don't design boxes by selecting a port frequency first ... if you want the thing to sound musical then you use the T/S parameters to determine the optimum box volume and then work out the port length ( which sets the cabinet resonant frequency) and this correct length ( as determined by the computer) will extend the low frequency response of the speaker smoothly .. until it's roll off.
Do you use foam baffle from for sound dreading material?
Another excellent video Rob! Solid tips for box builders.
What are your (and everyone else's) thoughts on labyrinth ports versus simple cylindrical ports? Pros and cons of each maybe?
I like slot ports because it’s essentially extra bracing that also performs a task. I’ve also had much less issues with port noise out of a slot port, but that being said I do like the simplicity and ease of use a large round port brings. The round port also looks a bit nicer imo.
Excellent work 👍 👍
Robert Van Hoy thanks!
What are those clamps ur putting on the corner of the box and where can I get those
Harbor freight sells them. They’re just corner clamps for drawer building
@@HifiVega right on Vega
Bout time I’ve found you🤣🤣🤣🔥🔥🔥
🤟🏼🤟🏼
Good vid. I think i can now do it with your vid. Would this design principle apply to home audio sub?
Dwaine Roper yeah for sure! Appreciate ya watching
Great video! I’d love to see your take on 4th and 6th orders.
Maybe one of these days!
Can someone plz help with the measurements that websites give 12.69” 13.03” I’m used to 1/4 1/2 3/4 I don’t see anyone talk about the measurements
Great job! Just wish you would have made it longer :D
Alpha Omega thanks man! Most people don’t wanna sit through my nonsense for too long lol
@@HifiVega Naw man buildy buildy videos are always great.
Is there no measurement for the back?
I got a question I've never built a box I'm about to build one for my scar SDR 15 I was wondering is liquid nail fine or is wood glue better what's the strongest glue and should I use birch wood or MDF
Wood glue is very strong and often times it can be stronger at that joint than the wood itself if it’s applied properly to flat surfaces. I haven’t got a lot of experience with construction adhesive so I can’t speak to that with a lot of experience.
@@HifiVega okay and what wood do you like best
@@nickolasvaughn667 I use Titebond II
@@HifiVega ok that's what I'll get and birch wood or MDF
How much would u make a box for a 15
Re box calculator i find is the easiest and gives cut sheets
Nice video!
Thanks!
Awesome video
John Steger thanks!
Sir what is the box tuning hz
awesome video!
Thanks man!
@@HifiVega you should build the slot port 12" box in the plans i sent ya its the most impressive single 12" box i've ever heard Mark did a video on it 👍
If you were to paint the inside of a subwoofer enclosure or add carpet or polyfill or cotton or insulation to the inside of a subwoofer enclosure will the tuning frequency be lowered
Travis Gulley depending on the material it could certainly change it, but not drastically.
Nice thanks
If I wanted to build a sound quality oriented system like say a single 12 ported using a savard hi q, would I approach my box design differently? Like say port area etc if I want the cleanest most accurate sounding deep bass?
In that case you might wanna model your enclosure in winisd to make sure yo get the response you want
So are part one, two, and three, just there to help the port reach the 35 inches for the 30 hz turning?
Yep
Looking around trying to get help for a 4 12 box for my focus st
A lot of folks do box designs with cut sheets and all the good stuff. Well worth the $40ish they charge. You should hit up Mark from www.caraudiofabrication.com
Damn, the box design was deleted.
hi, can you give the cabin dimensions for two Kicker Cvr 15s?
Download the Kicker U app they’ll give you everything you need plus a cut sheet
Hey there, I want to build a down-firing ported sub.
I got the Tang Band WT-644F
FS - 32 Hz
QTS - 0.42
VAS - 60 L
Box External Dimensions Width × Height × Depth - 17.72" × 15.75" × 19.71"
Material Thickness - 0.75"
Net Internal Volume - 1.87 ft3
Tuning Frequency - 32 Hz
Port Area - 21.39 inch2
Port Inlet Width × Height - 1.50" × 14.25"
Port Length - 24.41"
Is this good?
I really couldn’t tell you unless I modeled it in winisd
@@HifiVega puuh okay idk what my internal volume should be...
@@HifiVega so i tryed it with winisd -3db were about 30Hz i think that's good
Thank you so much for the videos . I had a question about building a ported box on a space saving budget. I don’t have much room to work with, and wanting to do a ported box with two 10 with the baffle angled(I believe 4th order box) I’m wanting to make the box 10(H) 18(D) and 47 inches long. I have to angle the baffle back to get the sub to fit in a box that’s only 10inches tall. I am trying to possibly port through the back package tray of a 1965 impala. Is this a box nightmare waiting to happen?? Thank you for any help.
1hicksonfamilybcle1 yeah you can use an external port and fire right though whatever you’re working with.
Great!!! Thank you for responding. Would you port the cone side? Magnet side?, or both? The 10s will not be exposed.
1hicksonfamilybcle1 don’t port on the magnet side because they need something to fire off of, so port on the actual side or front or top
HifiVega awesome!!’n thank you!!!
Is there a rule of thumb for the port diameter to avoid chuffing or can u just pick an arbitrary diameter and roll with that as long as ur port length meets the requirement as well as internal volume for the sub???
young feezy the port diameter or width does matter and I mostly go off of my experience, but you can play with the sizes in a program like winisd to get what you’re looking for.
. just downloaded it. Thank u
NICE!!!
Love it.
Byron Chambliss Thanks man!
hey i'm shawn from barbados i have a audiopipe 15 inch driver model TXX-N1500 and i dont have any specs for it i would like to build a down firing box for it and use in the home theater room but i cant fine the spec anywhere and i dont know anything about cubit feet only feet and inches can can u help me me wit a design
thanks for replaying if u did send me specs for a box i did not see it
Would it be mad expensive to have you build one for me?
Tbh with you. You could get someone to build you a much nicer enclosure for cheaper than I could. I’d even check out GP Car Audio they’re doing a good job with theirs
Could you do a how to build a basic box
Adante Paige I got you!
ruclips.net/video/CIuFsmPpvx4/видео.html
ThAnk you
I just put a small hole for 10 gauge wire for the box's purpose.
then put a rubber sleeve.
those terminals are horrid. Tet another thing interrupting my clean signal.
Box plan
www.dropbox.com/s/sdnet0btgwljdh1/15inportedbox.jpg?dl=0
Stop reading that teleprompter lol
Skip01 haha you think I got teleprompter money! I gotta notebook son 😂😂
lol Skip!
Love your channel... But your voice. Is soft... And needs more volume.. You speak rather softly.. Not making fun just pointing out..
I’m curious how you watched? I’ve heard this before, so now I always listen on my phone with and without headphones as well as on my laptop with/without headphones just to be sure it’s loud enough.
I’m curious how you watched? I’ve heard this before, so now I always listen on my phone with and without headphones as well as on my laptop with/without headphones just to be sure it’s loud enough.
@@HifiVega I actually agree. My tablet is cranked to the max just to hear you.
@@HifiVega sorry for the late reply... I watch on my phone sometimes with ear buds sometimes just phone speaker