As a both machinist and engineer I must say - your design process is remarkable, with taking into a count all the little details and thinking forward for the assembly. Very well done 👍👍👍
Yes who cares about corrrreccction comments... The point is the video is most excellent.. Never goes off topic is visually supportive to its points.. Also you have to spend many many hours of your short life to learn this much about box construction... I have not made to many myself but every time is decision time... Follow this instruction and you are half way before you begin... The rebate (rabbit) is just class and gives the finish of perfection... Was the carpet sticky backed or do you use a glue??
@@roberthopkins8089 It's been my experience and, my professional opinion, to grab some 3M car headliner spray glue in an aerosol can and use box carpet that does not come with a sticky back. Using the spray glue may take a little practice, but will last much longer than a sticky backed carpeting. Just my 2 cents, not sure which of the two he went with in the video
I've been following for years and I still think your designs are so clean and subtlety technical. I follow gately and Meade and still I love your boxes as well if not more then these comp. Guys... Thanks for all the helpful build tips..
OMG I guessed on my build of how to correctly do this. I never would of thought the front baffle be so important. Love your videos and tips. Sharing the knowledge to how to build correctly.
I did a lot of speaker building during and after high school. I came to build mine the same way you prefer. only I didn't have nice tools. I only had a jigsaw, circular saw and a hand sander which i used to round corners and the port edges. Watching this makes me want to build one again.
Great information! I like to recess the sides of the enclosure 1/4" - "1/2" on each side to make it easier to wrap with carpet without using a router and it gives you something to grab when installing/removing the box.
This is a whole "sub box builders hack" and I have to agree that the recessed side plate would eliminate a few steps from this video and always looks great once the box is finished as well
You never cease to amaze. The only thing better than your fabrication skills is your software. You are an elite installer. Very few people can get it from their head to their hands like you. I hope you get a job with a budget to do a proper sound quality / SQL install. Love to see some glass kick panels maybe covered in vinyl with some custom A pillars. Whatever you do I'm sure it will be spectacular.
What do you mean his software? You mean.. Software he wrote?? Or software he uses...? Or his software tutorials...? I wish someone would do a tutorial for the Audison Bit one DSP...
I know that's right he don't half as nothing I mean yeah he can do a budget build but he can do some extreme detail work as well. I guess it all depends on what the customer wants to pay for. You go Mark.
Great video Mark. U have made a Huge difference in my life, (Not What She Said)😂 for Car Audio or the years. I'm 57 and still inspired. Question, how do you attach your front baffle? Thanks for all you do.
I've always considered the faceplate for the subs to be by far the most important piece. At least double baffled, and tight joinery with other panels and reinforced heavily.
The biggest benefit of having caputred ends, is you can cut a dado on the four sides with a matching tongue on the ends that allows the ends to lock in to the sides, aligning them, adding strength and glue area as well making the enclosure more air tight.
I'm definitely going to use several of these tips. I'm not doing any car audio, but all the same concepts apply to the smaller indoor variety of audio also I would assume. I especially liked the tip about setting up the table saw once for all the long cuts. Seems like I've never managed to set up the saw exactly the same twice.
I tend to build my boxes around the bottom face of my box, my back then sits on the bottom face, the sides do the same, my baffle face (front) i tend to do an inset with my flush being fully out to the edges, and my topside face gets set in and locks wverything into itself that way it has mechanical support in the way its built as well
If not to apply what I see in these videos I'd still watch because you're pretty entertaining and informative. I get woodwork shop from highschool vibes and wonder if I should stop being a mechanic
Let me ask you a off topic kinda question... I know you have alot of experience with the jl audio line of equipment... I recently received an entire jl audio marine set up for free threw my job.. How is the marine line of equipment threw jl audio..im curious..any info would be nice.
hi. great videos. i was wondering if a slotted vent can be located on the bottom of the box instead of the side. rotated 90deg thus increasing the height and reducing the width of the box? i was hoping to build a slotted vent box with a slopped back to fit up against the seat. would this be possible?
Yeah but if you have 2 different heights for the front & back .. like a wedge box . You can add the front height and back height and then divide by 2 to calculate as a rectangle..... Example: box height front= 10" Height back = 6" Width = 30" Length = 20" 6" +10" = 16" ÷2 = 8" So calculated volume is 8" x 30" x 20" Hope this helps
@@thomaslove6494 that’s not the issue wish I can share a picture of the car with you to show you how hard it is and I’m trying to get 31.000L exactly 😩
@@ali-sleimanchehade6129 oh I see, well you can get car audio fabrication to design a box for you. I think he charges like 150 bucks and then you know it'll be spot on....
@@ali-sleimanchehade6129 no.... You send him measurements and pictures.... Also... He has made many boxes for many vehicles so he May already have what you're looking for.
I used to have one box with two 10" facing each other with a divider wall between them, and one air opening in each chamber where you could see the cones. So far that box is the best sound I've experienced, and I cannot find it anywhere
Good video, seems a lot like twice the material on a lot of the boxes, definitely not budget boxes, I love the tips you gave, I'm about to build one for my s10 and I looking for some good tips! Thanx bro
I do the same thing on cutting my side pieces and bracing by setting my fence once and all my pieces are perfectly cut I always cut my long sides slightly longer than what I need. This allows me to position the side panels perfectly where I want them. Then I use a quality flush trim bit to clean up the ends. Then my baffle and the back piece are also cut larger in both width and length. This allows you to glue to the side panels without having to worry about exact cuts. Then you used a flush trim bit to trim it to the exact size of the box. This makes a perfect looking box with minimal effort in every cut being exact. My boxes are square and precise. Work smarter.......
There are several programs to determine the optimal box size and port dimensions. I personally use Blaubox by Blaupunkt It's very important that you enter in the correct theile small parameters for the actual subwoofer you are using. They are available online or from the manufacturer. I have seen many box design software with the wrong parameters for the subs in their library. Keep in mind that a 4 ohm version and an 8 ohm version of the identical sub will have different TS parameters. To determine the cubic feet of an enclosure multiply the length by the width by the height of the internal dimensions in inches. Then divide that number by 1728 (there are 1728 cubic inches in a cubic ft. 12×12×12= 1728). Then subtract the woofer and the port displacement from that For example if your box is 17.5"L by 21.5"H by 19.5"H extrnal dimesions and you used 3/4" thick wood you subtract 1.5" from every external dimension to get the internal dimensions which would be 16x20x18 multiply 16x20x18= 5760 Then divide 5760 by 1728= 3.33 cu Most software offer a "Max Flat" option that will give you the flatest frequency response. I highly suggest you shoot for those dimensions.
Yeah I love this and this is actually how I have always been done my boxes I haven't in a long time but I got two subs that I want to build for my PA system so now I've got box fever again LOL
I want to make a subwoofer with the air port large enough to fit the Stereo and put a piece of wood on top to make it also serve as a table. Adjustable Cabinet Feet for bottom/floor to level. The "stereo" feet can also be measured to fit into wood pockets deep enough for them to keep the stereo from moving around. The ventilation for the stereo would be great, keeping it cool. Your design I like too but I might put secondary pieces on the ends like the front, -maybe even back- .. Maybe even turn it into a speaker table/desk. only need 1 subwoofer for stereo array. I also like the idea of 3 sided mid/high range speakers that fit in corners of walls with a small shelf on top of each. table & 2 small shelves.. maybe someday I will finally build stuff like that.
What works better, single layer pieces that are think or many thin pieces laminated together to make the thickness needed for constructing a strong enough box???
Do you have any videos on a free air subwoofer install? Im currently looking at infinity kappa subwoofers that are free air rated subs and looking for some how to, do’s and don’t’s for something like this. Looking at either a rear deck install or under rear deck install. Thanks
I'm still trying to wrap my head around how you route out the port. I've watched this video a few times. Is there a video that covers how to cut or route out the slot port? Thanks!
I want to build two subwoofer boxes for my home theater system and install them in an existing build-in shelf that surrounds my TV, do you think having them build in solid would cause to much vibration into the wall or build-ins? They will also be ported btw
ive seen some of the knukoncepts fuse blocks are cast alloy and they are hollow on the back. it was pretty much exactly what i wanted, but i wanted it to be solid, so i had to go make my own on the drill press.
Hi my friend, could you with us a basic wiring technics inside on my project sound box. I have already bought the following items: 1. A 150watts horn tweeter. 2. A 100watts Midrange speaker 6.5" diameter. 3. A 12" woofer with a 500watts. Also, what micro farrad capacitor or, do I still need them for. Thanks buddy, I am Joven from Philippines. 5:10
I’d love to hear if there’s a way to determine what thickness material you should use. Obviously there’s a ton of variables but I’m hoping there’s some rule of thumb to use.
It's easy, the higher power you go, the thicker and stronger your enclosure needs to be. If you're running more than 2 to 3,000 Watts you're going to need to start using additional bracing additional baffles corner braces Dell rods once you get over three 4K around 5K you're going to have to start using one inch thick or greater, usually two 3/4 panels glued together. I've seen so many boxes get destroyed by a single Stout sub. I always over build in case the customer wants to upgrade later and coat it with fiberglass inside and out to stop moisture and seal it well while adding rigidity
hey i have a question, i want to install a rockville ss8p sub in my santa fe 2022 with factory radio. Do i need a line output converter or can i just use the high level input that is on the amp and tap in to example the rear left coaxial speaker thx! Great videos!!
In my 20 years of enclosure building...I always mount the front baffle and rear last, also total glue bonding on surfaces especially end grain....avoid the "bead"
Question, if I have a sub requirements are 3.0 cubic feet. If I were too add another sub without a chamber do I have to use 6 cubic feet? Or do the subs need there own space equally? Thank you
Years ago they designed something like this the speaker would fit perfectly and it wasn't visible when covered in That type of fame would be extremely clear with a full range speaker
Hey fellow caraudiofabrication members I'm in need of advice and knowledge I have 2 6in pioneers in my front cab 2 6in fosgate in my back the pioneer push a decent amount of air with little vibration the fosgate are punchy and vibratey but I can't feel air move out of them what one is giving better SQ ? 🤔😁
Awesome video and great tips! Maybe a little too focused on using router, most people would take a chisel to that front cutout bit and call it a day.. but positioning the boards as you said avoids the whole problem.
WOW, I just caught a glimpse of the pieces installed in the corners, inside the box, because I was going to ask why builders always use sharp 90% internal corners, when intuition tells me that curves would flow better as in how water reacts to flowing through a 22% elbow versus a 90% elbow!?!?
You could cut a rabbit in the wood top and bottom, that would trap the baffle boards eliminating the need for braces that may effect how back bass is collected and directed out of the baffle hole...in fact, I would take furring strips and a router to make smooth curved inside corner pieces to direct the sound waves out the back bass hole too!!!
YOu sir a a bad ass. come to alabama and help me with mine ! :) What program are you using in the demo??? Thank you for doing things correctly! I like sealed boxes myself. I need to find your video on it!
I know you charge a certain price for design drawings that you create on a box, but what do you charge for checking drawings someone sends you on a sealed enclosure?
Hey Mark, I have an electric scooter that runs on a lithium battery… I wanna mount a 6.5 speaker to the rear seat of it and make it Bluetooth. How can I do this??
I doubt he will be able to answer this question. There’s just too many unknowns. Your best bet is to do some googling. I’m sure someone has done a project like this and if you’re lucky, they will have made a video or at least written up some details on Reddit or something. One idea that pops in my head is to make it a modular/removable system using its own rechargeable battery. That way you can possibly use it for other things. (Out in the garage, camping or other) Good luck 👍
@@poopandfartjokes Thanks a lot! I was just wondering, because he did make a boombox for his shop. I was hoping to have it run on a 12v Bluetooth amp connected to the battery. Or having a converter to 12v. He does answers questions via email through his website. I might have to do that to get his answer!
I somewhat do my baffles the same way. The face piece is a full piece but the inner baffle sits inside the port wall so you don’t see the multiple layers inside the port.
Most people do not use nails. As the wood expands and contract from heat, cold, vibration of the enclosure the nails will start to loosen. Screws bite into the wood and tend to hold the form better. Now this is if they are put in properly. If you smash the ends of the box, over tighten, etc. then won't hold well.
@@joelowens5211 glue and screws, lotsa glue! That's the main part holding the box together. Also make sure you go back and seal all the inside seams with caulking for airtightness
I know my boxes took a huge step forward when I eliminated all fasteners, and changed over to square and circle dowels as well as dovetail and box joinery. Much sturdier, much better appearance, and save on metal cost. With anything wood it's all about the glue surface area.
I'm not going to mention names but one of the biggest builders on RUclips insets a lot of his front baffles, I can't possibly understand why someone would do it that way?!
wondering how you determine the size of your 45's? like at 12:30 where the inner 45 in the corner of the sub area is separated from the wall to accommodate a certain length, while the port 45 is much longer, and the very outer 45s are flush with the walls
Along as the construction is solid Well braced Double baffling is overrated Pine plywood is fine Round over port opening is great Speaker bow terminals aren't needed on a permanent install
Yes absolutely going to use the trick where you rabbit the ends of the box to tuck the material in instead of having to make your little trim piece out of Luan and cover it and screw it to the end old school shit yes I'm definitely going to use that trick I like that a lot
Could you inset the first layer of the baffle(mounting face of sub) then have the second fascia baffle the whole face, would that be any point or just a waste of time and effort
Interesting idea but I don't see the value. Wouldn't be able to cut 5 pieces to same width, would have different dimensions for side pieces, wouldn't make much sense.
I think a combination works - all of the main parte sized the same to fit in between the sides (common baffle, back / top, bottom) and then apply an "aesthetic baffle" that is a full front cover. Your way offers easier consideration I think if you are using manual cutting.
As a both machinist and engineer I must say - your design process is remarkable, with taking into a count all the little details and thinking forward for the assembly. Very well done 👍👍👍
"A count"?
@jamesstephenson2346 Correction comments crack me up more than they should 🤦🏽♂️🤣
Yes who cares about corrrreccction comments... The point is the video is most excellent.. Never goes off topic is visually supportive to its points.. Also you have to spend many many hours of your short life to learn this much about box construction... I have not made to many myself but every time is decision time... Follow this instruction and you are half way before you begin... The rebate (rabbit) is just class and gives the finish of perfection... Was the carpet sticky backed or do you use a glue??
@@roberthopkins8089 It's been my experience and, my professional opinion, to grab some 3M car headliner spray glue in an aerosol can and use box carpet that does not come with a sticky back. Using the spray glue may take a little practice, but will last much longer than a sticky backed carpeting. Just my 2 cents, not sure which of the two he went with in the video
Anything 3m in my house... Its the ONLY brand that has never let me down.. Thanks for the tip.... Makes good sense
Always the best information with details and reasons why you do it that way. Keep up the great videos.
Great Job! No nonsense video. Nice cadence, levels are good, no silly funny business. 10/10.
I've been following for years and I still think your designs are so clean and subtlety technical. I follow gately and Meade and still I love your boxes as well if not more then these comp. Guys... Thanks for all the helpful build tips..
I love all the techniques you showed us. Great videos!
very good point, i always thought having the baffle surrounded by the top and sides made the box stronger and added support to the baffle,
OMG I guessed on my build of how to correctly do this. I never would of thought the front baffle be so important. Love your videos and tips. Sharing the knowledge to how to build correctly.
I did a lot of speaker building during and after high school. I came to build mine the same way you prefer. only I didn't have nice tools. I only had a jigsaw, circular saw and a hand sander which i used to round corners and the port edges. Watching this makes me want to build one again.
Great information! I like to recess the sides of the enclosure 1/4" - "1/2" on each side to make it easier to wrap with carpet without using a router and it gives you something to grab when installing/removing the box.
This is a whole "sub box builders hack" and I have to agree that the recessed side plate would eliminate a few steps from this video and always looks great once the box is finished as well
Thanks Mark. Because of your clear explanations, I am able to build my own custom subwoofer box.
You never cease to amaze. The only thing better than your fabrication skills is your software. You are an elite installer. Very few people can get it from their head to their hands like you. I hope you get a job with a budget to do a proper sound quality / SQL install. Love to see some glass kick panels maybe covered in vinyl with some custom A pillars. Whatever you do I'm sure it will be spectacular.
What do you mean his software? You mean.. Software he wrote?? Or software he uses...? Or his software tutorials...? I wish someone would do a tutorial for the Audison Bit one DSP...
I know that's right he don't half as nothing I mean yeah he can do a budget build but he can do some extreme detail work as well. I guess it all depends on what the customer wants to pay for. You go Mark.
Great video Mark. U have made a Huge difference in my life, (Not What She Said)😂 for Car Audio or the years. I'm 57 and still inspired. Question, how do you attach your front baffle? Thanks for all you do.
Perfect! Will be using this method going forward...
Busy doing my 1st build on my truck, and came across your channel. Absolutely awesome advice and tips. Learnt so much. Keep it up
Awesome! Thanks for tuning in. Please post up on future videos, welcome to the community
ive been following you for years and you keep amazing me for the smart tricks and easy accessible ways of working you come up with. thanks a lot
Well thought out Mark! Thank you for the wonderful video.
I've always considered the faceplate for the subs to be by far the most important piece. At least double baffled, and tight joinery with other panels and reinforced heavily.
The biggest benefit of having caputred ends, is you can cut a dado on the four sides with a matching tongue on the ends that allows the ends to lock in to the sides, aligning them, adding strength and glue area as well making the enclosure more air tight.
I'm definitely going to use several of these tips. I'm not doing any car audio, but all the same concepts apply to the smaller indoor variety of audio also I would assume. I especially liked the tip about setting up the table saw once for all the long cuts. Seems like I've never managed to set up the saw exactly the same twice.
I tend to build my boxes around the bottom face of my box, my back then sits on the bottom face, the sides do the same, my baffle face (front) i tend to do an inset with my flush being fully out to the edges, and my topside face gets set in and locks wverything into itself that way it has mechanical support in the way its built as well
Omg, I'm going to make every future box according to this method
Great video. What CAD program are you using?
It looks like his using Solidworks
If not to apply what I see in these videos I'd still watch because you're pretty entertaining and informative. I get woodwork shop from highschool vibes and wonder if I should stop being a mechanic
Great video been missing these types of videos
L bozo
Everytime i see your videos i always learn new things. Really enjoy the learning process.
Which software you use bro ????
Another great video Mark. Liked the round over explanation. I'm a stain and lacquer guy myself but your overall design concepts are the same.
Let me ask you a off topic kinda question...
I know you have alot of experience with the jl audio line of equipment...
I recently received an entire jl audio marine set up for free threw my job..
How is the marine line of equipment threw jl audio..im curious..any info would be nice.
Really great video, Mark, thank you!
I think the best is to have a mix on each face. You can also use this to create an overlap lip for protection and can give a nice look.
Thank you so much Bro. God bless you all.
Thanks for making this interesting video Mark!
You are very talented sir .
hi. great videos. i was wondering if a slotted vent can be located on the bottom of the box instead of the side. rotated 90deg thus increasing the height and reducing the width of the box? i was hoping to build a slotted vent box with a slopped back to fit up against the seat. would this be possible?
Loved it!!!! Working on my sub box and it helped a lot but it’s sooo much pain to get the desired volume when you have complex shape!!! 😩😩😩
Yeah but if you have 2 different heights for the front & back .. like a wedge box . You can add the front height and back height and then divide by 2 to calculate as a rectangle.....
Example:
box height front= 10"
Height back = 6"
Width = 30"
Length = 20"
6" +10" = 16" ÷2 = 8"
So calculated volume is
8" x 30" x 20"
Hope this helps
@@thomaslove6494 that’s not the issue wish I can share a picture of the car with you to show you how hard it is and I’m trying to get 31.000L exactly 😩
@@ali-sleimanchehade6129 oh I see, well you can get car audio fabrication to design a box for you. I think he charges like 150 bucks and then you know it'll be spot on....
@@thomaslove6494 don’t he need to see the car and take the measurements? I’m in Ivory Coast…
@@ali-sleimanchehade6129 no.... You send him measurements and pictures.... Also... He has made many boxes for many vehicles so he May already have what you're looking for.
I used to have one box with two 10" facing each other with a divider wall between them, and one air opening in each chamber where you could see the cones. So far that box is the best sound I've experienced, and I cannot find it anywhere
Good video, seems a lot like twice the material on a lot of the boxes, definitely not budget boxes, I love the tips you gave, I'm about to build one for my s10 and I looking for some good tips! Thanx bro
The cheapest thing in car audio is the wood materials. Doesn't make sense to cheap out on them when you can build it right.
Awesome tutorial!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
I do the same thing on cutting my side pieces and bracing by setting my fence once and all my pieces are perfectly cut I always cut my long sides slightly longer than what I need. This allows me to position the side panels perfectly where I want them. Then I use a quality flush trim bit to clean up the ends. Then my baffle and the back piece are also cut larger in both width and length. This allows you to glue to the side panels without having to worry about exact cuts. Then you used a flush trim bit to trim it to the exact size of the box. This makes a perfect looking box with minimal effort in every cut being exact. My boxes are square and precise. Work smarter.......
Excellent video! What software do you use for doing your 3D design of the boxes?
There are several programs to determine the optimal box size and port dimensions.
I personally use Blaubox by Blaupunkt
It's very important that you enter in the correct theile small parameters for the actual subwoofer you are using. They are available online or from the manufacturer. I have seen many box design software with the wrong parameters for the subs in their library. Keep in mind that a 4 ohm version and an 8 ohm version of the identical sub will have different TS parameters.
To determine the cubic feet of an enclosure multiply the length by the width by the height of the internal dimensions in inches. Then divide that number by 1728 (there are 1728 cubic inches in a cubic ft. 12×12×12= 1728). Then subtract the woofer and the port displacement from that
For example if your box is 17.5"L by 21.5"H by 19.5"H extrnal dimesions and you used 3/4" thick wood you subtract 1.5" from every external dimension to get the internal dimensions which would be 16x20x18
multiply
16x20x18= 5760
Then divide 5760 by 1728= 3.33 cu
Most software offer a "Max Flat" option that will give you the flatest frequency response. I highly suggest you shoot for those dimensions.
Is Solidworks (in this video), a 3d CAD software, not for audio but you can draw almost anything.
Yeah I love this and this is actually how I have always been done my boxes I haven't in a long time but I got two subs that I want to build for my PA system so now I've got box fever again LOL
I want to make a subwoofer with the air port large enough to fit the Stereo and put a piece of wood on top to make it also serve as a table. Adjustable Cabinet Feet for bottom/floor to level.
The "stereo" feet can also be measured to fit into wood pockets deep enough for them to keep the stereo from moving around. The ventilation for the stereo would be great, keeping it cool.
Your design I like too but I might put secondary pieces on the ends like the front, -maybe even back- .. Maybe even turn it into a speaker table/desk. only need 1 subwoofer for stereo array.
I also like the idea of 3 sided mid/high range speakers that fit in corners of walls with a small shelf on top of each. table & 2 small shelves.. maybe someday I will finally build stuff like that.
What works better, single layer pieces that are think or many thin pieces laminated together to make the thickness needed for constructing a strong enough box???
Do you have any videos on a free air subwoofer install? Im currently looking at infinity kappa subwoofers that are free air rated subs and looking for some how to, do’s and don’t’s for something like this. Looking at either a rear deck install or under rear deck install. Thanks
I'm still trying to wrap my head around how you route out the port. I've watched this video a few times. Is there a video that covers how to cut or route out the slot port? Thanks!
I want to build two subwoofer boxes for my home theater system and install them in an existing build-in shelf that surrounds my TV, do you think having them build in solid would cause to much vibration into the wall or build-ins? They will also be ported btw
Could you tell us what cad program you use for box design?
Solidworks
Absolutely 💯 Everything is about efficiency 👍😎💪
ive seen some of the knukoncepts fuse blocks are cast alloy and they are hollow on the back. it was pretty much exactly what i wanted, but i wanted it to be solid, so i had to go make my own on the drill press.
Very smart build
Hi my friend,
could you with us
a basic wiring technics inside on my project
sound box. I have already bought the following items:
1. A 150watts horn tweeter.
2. A 100watts Midrange speaker 6.5" diameter.
3. A 12" woofer with a 500watts. Also, what micro farrad capacitor or,
do I still need them for. Thanks buddy, I am Joven from Philippines.
5:10
I’d love to hear if there’s a way to determine what thickness material you should use. Obviously there’s a ton of variables but I’m hoping there’s some rule of thumb to use.
I guess the rule would be 'thickest possible where practicable'
It's easy, the higher power you go, the thicker and stronger your enclosure needs to be. If you're running more than 2 to 3,000 Watts you're going to need to start using additional bracing additional baffles corner braces Dell rods once you get over three 4K around 5K you're going to have to start using one inch thick or greater, usually two 3/4 panels glued together. I've seen so many boxes get destroyed by a single Stout sub.
I always over build in case the customer wants to upgrade later and coat it with fiberglass inside and out to stop moisture and seal it well while adding rigidity
@@johnnycorn7225 thanks. Very informative.
@@colelangford6369 you're welcome bro I hate to see anybody have to build a box again
what do you use to design your boxes with? Does it calculate internal volume for you as well?
Winisd, rew???
makes for way shorter build time as well. dope video
Good info. Thank you!
hey i have a question, i want to install a rockville ss8p sub in my santa fe 2022 with factory radio. Do i need a line output converter or can i just use the high level input that is on the amp and tap in to example the rear left coaxial speaker thx! Great videos!!
I would love to see a box with a clear acrylic top analyzed with that lidar or laser technology that's used to see sound waves!!!
I have a suggestion for a video please. Can you make a vid of how you build a demo table for testing subs and enclosures in your shop?
What software is used/displayed in this excellent tutorisl?
Baffle top board holds the weight instead of the screws, nails, glue etc. To me this is the most important reason. And the common dimensions.
In my 20 years of enclosure building...I always mount the front baffle and rear last, also total glue bonding on surfaces especially end grain....avoid the "bead"
What software are you using to draw the 3D
Question, if I have a sub requirements are 3.0 cubic feet. If I were too add another sub without a chamber do I have to use 6 cubic feet? Or do the subs need there own space equally? Thank you
One simple reason for your version, it simply looks better
can u PLEASE do a more in depth video on the relay when you have to add the diode from the build u mentioned at the beginning of this video.
Years ago they designed something like this the speaker would fit perfectly and it wasn't visible when covered in That type of fame would be extremely clear with a full range speaker
Hey fellow caraudiofabrication members
I'm in need of advice and knowledge I have 2 6in pioneers in my front cab 2 6in fosgate in my back the pioneer push a decent amount of air with little vibration the fosgate are punchy and vibratey but I can't feel air move out of them what one is giving better SQ ? 🤔😁
Awesome video and great tips!
Maybe a little too focused on using router, most people would take a chisel to that front cutout bit and call it a day.. but positioning the boards as you said avoids the whole problem.
WOW, I just caught a glimpse of the pieces installed in the corners, inside the box, because I was going to ask why builders always use sharp 90% internal corners, when intuition tells me that curves would flow better as in how water reacts to flowing through a 22% elbow versus a 90% elbow!?!?
How much for a naked, unfinished box 12", double baffle, 3/4" Baltic Birch. Roughly 24" x 16x17". Home theatre use- sealed. Mostly will use for music.
What CAD software are you using?
I was wondering the same thing. Looks great!
Looks like "Solidworks"
hi. what is desing software name . thanks
When installing binding posts, what type/brand of sealant do I use?
I know not everyone can't afford a CNC router but it can do all that pretty efficiently
You could cut a rabbit in the wood top and bottom, that would trap the baffle boards eliminating the need for braces that may effect how back bass is collected and directed out of the baffle hole...in fact, I would take furring strips and a router to make smooth curved inside corner pieces to direct the sound waves out the back bass hole too!!!
Great video thx.
YOu sir a a bad ass. come to alabama and help me with mine ! :) What program are you using in the demo??? Thank you for doing things correctly! I like sealed boxes myself. I need to find your video on it!
I know you charge a certain price for design drawings that you create on a box, but what do you charge for checking drawings someone sends you on a sealed enclosure?
Thank you
Hey Mark,
I have an electric scooter that runs on a lithium battery… I wanna mount a 6.5 speaker to the rear seat of it and make it Bluetooth. How can I do this??
I doubt he will be able to answer this question. There’s just too many unknowns. Your best bet is to do some googling. I’m sure someone has done a project like this and if you’re lucky, they will have made a video or at least written up some details on Reddit or something.
One idea that pops in my head is to make it a modular/removable system using its own rechargeable battery. That way you can possibly use it for other things. (Out in the garage, camping or other) Good luck 👍
@@poopandfartjokes Thanks a lot! I was just wondering, because he did make a boombox for his shop. I was hoping to have it run on a 12v Bluetooth amp connected to the battery. Or having a converter to 12v. He does answers questions via email through his website. I might have to do that to get his answer!
So behind the two front baffles the port is not curved in the corners? just square.?
We aren't talking about port corners in this video
I somewhat do my baffles the same way. The face piece is a full piece but the inner baffle sits inside the port wall so you don’t see the multiple layers inside the port.
What program do you use for designing your boxes
An engineering degree and experience. No one program
Hi Mark, what do you prefer to use to assemble all the parts together ? (glue/nails/... ?).
Most people do not use nails. As the wood expands and contract from heat, cold, vibration of the enclosure the nails will start to loosen. Screws bite into the wood and tend to hold the form better. Now this is if they are put in properly. If you smash the ends of the box, over tighten, etc. then won't hold well.
@@joelowens5211 glue and screws, lotsa glue! That's the main part holding the box together. Also make sure you go back and seal all the inside seams with caulking for airtightness
I know my boxes took a huge step forward when I eliminated all fasteners, and changed over to square and circle dowels as well as dovetail and box joinery. Much sturdier, much better appearance, and save on metal cost. With anything wood it's all about the glue surface area.
I never inset my baffle. Alway full face. Adds alot of strength and makes things easier to make beauty panels for..
I'm not going to mention names but one of the biggest builders on RUclips insets a lot of his front baffles, I can't possibly understand why someone would do it that way?!
Have you built home subwoofer systems
Is there such a thing as a double rabbet bit for router?
🤔
I’m just looking for something to put in my 22 Toyota tundra that hides away. Want to replace all my speakers
Do you suggest metal screens in ports, to keep your custom box from becoming a mouse house?
What mouse is going to survive inside a functioing subwoofer enclosure?
@@normhiscock352 Not survive long; bring nest & food scraps
This is a real phenomenon I stored my old kicker wedge box in the garage and it happened to me, lil bish 😂
wondering how you determine the size of your 45's? like at 12:30 where the inner 45 in the corner of the sub area is separated from the wall to accommodate a certain length, while the port 45 is much longer, and the very outer 45s are flush with the walls
The length of port is measured in center line of port if that makes sense....
Prefer to oversize the box and inset the end pieces 1/4" and tuck the wrap 👌
Tried this method building my first box and I don't think I'll be changing there basic layout for any in the future
nice video
does anyone know what program he is using to demonstrate the box?
Solidworks
Along as the construction is solid
Well braced
Double baffling is overrated
Pine plywood is fine
Round over port opening is great
Speaker bow terminals aren't needed on a permanent install
Yes absolutely going to use the trick where you rabbit the ends of the box to tuck the material in instead of having to make your little trim piece out of Luan and cover it and screw it to the end old school shit yes I'm definitely going to use that trick I like that a lot
How would u build one for 18 upfacing sub for trunk build?
Could you inset the first layer of the baffle(mounting face of sub) then have the second fascia baffle the whole face, would that be any point or just a waste of time and effort
Interesting idea but I don't see the value. Wouldn't be able to cut 5 pieces to same width, would have different dimensions for side pieces, wouldn't make much sense.
I think a combination works - all of the main parte sized the same to fit in between the sides (common baffle, back / top, bottom) and then apply an "aesthetic baffle" that is a full front cover. Your way offers easier consideration I think if you are using manual cutting.
Awesome🤙🏽
Thank you! Cheers!
You are amazing bro just keep up the good work 👌👊🏽
Keeping it simple 👍