I got em all day, my normal job is sewage. This is nothing. I even have tivex. But I'd rather clean up with automotive soap. Lol. I like being able to feel everything and I don't mind getting dirty. Great tip tho... some new gloves even have grippy stuff.
I would have bled the brakes before I pushed back the caliper piston so that to the extent possible, the piston is forced into the o-ring using fresh fluid. The old fluid is likely waterlogged. It doesn't lubricate as well & it promotes corrosion. Also, when you push back the piston, the fluid behind it has to go somewhere. If you haven't bled the calipers or otherwise removed some fluid from the master cylinder, what you force back could easily overflow and damage firewall paint and perhaps the wiring and other parts around it. Brake fluid is aggressive. Probably a better alternative is to crack the bleedport on the caliper when you force back the piston. Connect a clear hose from the bleedport to some type of container, Wear eye protection. as when you force the piston, the brake fluid may spray out petty hard. To make brake bleeding a one-man job, I like to do most of my bleeding using a suction gun kit from Harbor Freight. I put telfon tape on the bleeder screws, but I still have trouble with air getting by the threads, which maked it difficult to tell when the brake system is fully bled. Often the rotors don't need to be turned or replaced. If reusing them, I like to use an electric drill and a small grinding stone to smooth off the leading rusty edge of the rotor so the new pads don't bind on this. Some also like to sand off the rotor surfaces to break any glaze.
I wouldn't add all that extra work but how ever you get the job done is all up to you. If you fallow my method, you do not need to bleed the brakes. Hydrolic fluid / brake fluid does not go bad as fast as brakes do. I've done hundreds if not thousands of brake jobs this same way with no problems too. 👍 But again, as long as the job is done, there is no wrong way. The difference will be the time spent. 👍👍
Awesome vid bud perfectly detailed thanks for the knowledge.
Thank you. No need to bleed the brake fluid?
I would only add to clean any rust from the hub face and from the caliper bracket where the hardware mounts. And clean the rotors with brake cleaner.
Ya know.... I've been thinking if I should add that lately.. Great suggestion. I never had a issue. But... there will be that 'one time'. 👍👍
Thanks! That was helpful.
Great vid
But invest in some nitrile gloves to make life a little easier
I got em all day, my normal job is sewage. This is nothing. I even have tivex. But I'd rather clean up with automotive soap. Lol. I like being able to feel everything and I don't mind getting dirty. Great tip tho... some new gloves even have grippy stuff.
I have a 2010 and am looking for the wear sensor information, 1 sensor or 2 so I can order parts
Would you happen to know the torque specs for a 2010 nissan cube, need it for the lower front control arm and ball joint
I have a 2012 Nissan cube S, I want to replace the brake shoes, but I don't know how to buy the parts,
Rockauto 😊
I would have bled the brakes before I pushed back the caliper piston so that to the extent possible, the piston is forced into the o-ring using fresh fluid. The old fluid is likely waterlogged. It doesn't lubricate as well & it promotes corrosion.
Also, when you push back the piston, the fluid behind it has to go somewhere. If you haven't bled the calipers or otherwise removed some fluid from the master cylinder, what you force back could easily overflow and damage firewall paint and perhaps the wiring and other parts around it. Brake fluid is aggressive.
Probably a better alternative is to crack the bleedport on the caliper when you force back the piston. Connect a clear hose from the bleedport to some type of container, Wear eye protection. as when you force the piston, the brake fluid may spray out petty hard.
To make brake bleeding a one-man job, I like to do most of my bleeding using a suction gun kit from Harbor Freight. I put telfon tape on the bleeder screws, but I still have trouble with air getting by the threads, which maked it difficult to tell when the brake system is fully bled.
Often the rotors don't need to be turned or replaced. If reusing them, I like to use an electric drill and a small grinding stone to smooth off the leading rusty edge of the rotor so the new pads don't bind on this. Some also like to sand off the rotor surfaces to break any glaze.
I wouldn't add all that extra work but how ever you get the job done is all up to you. If you fallow my method, you do not need to bleed the brakes. Hydrolic fluid / brake fluid does not go bad as fast as brakes do. I've done hundreds if not thousands of brake jobs this same way with no problems too. 👍
But again, as long as the job is done, there is no wrong way. The difference will be the time spent. 👍👍