Repairing Honda CRV door harness | RD1 RD2 1997-2001
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- In this episode, I show how I repair faulty door harness on 97-01 Honda CRV.
mintonperforman...
hondaresource.com
Soldering Iron: amzn.to/3wSI8OQ
Solder: amzn.to/3tSnxbc
Heat Shrink: amzn.to/3ITX2GE
Fabric tape: amzn.to/3JXREDN
A heads up. The pin out is different 96/98 door harness, compared to 99/01.
So if ur going to the junk yard to get a good one, make sure the years are the same between the models. (96/98)-(99/01).
You can make it work. It is a difference of moving a couple wires around. ( but a big headache). Learned while switching doors. Always keep ur old parts till done and don't cut the wires if you can disconnect them. Lol. Good content. Keep it coming.
Awesome, good info!
Would you happen to know which words to cross? I believe this is the issue, dame thing. Fi Islington half done jobs
Thank u brother I’m lucky I checked RUclips 😂 might have saved me a pre-scheduled headache
I just went through this exact job and have a couple tips that may help others.
I took the exterior connector behind the fender and cut it with a Sawzall to get rid of all the pins then used a step bit to drill a hole in it large enough to add a rubber grommet then I took all the connections off the inside of the door and pulled that harness out of the door that gave me the ability to work on it comfortably. I then went to the junkyard and got the harness from another CRV driver door so then I would have the same color coded wires and I used them to extend the harness by 6 inches then before you solder the newly extended wires to the door harness put the green square piece and the connector you drilled the hole with the grommet installed onto the body harness side so after you solder all the wires and shove the door harness back through he square hole in the door you can snap that connector back into the square hole then attach the green piece and the rubber that way you still maintain a water proof (resistant) hole.
I also used the shrink connectors with the solder already in them.
Hope that all makes sense. Wish I could post a pic
Great idea
I just did everything you did in this video , and it worked , hell yeah thank you man keep making videos like this detail and everything you need to get the job done ✅
Awesome info, working on the exact same issue now. Bit the bullet and ordered the replacement connector from Minton. Thanks for all the great content!
Great demonstration on rewiring the harness, easy to follow, had no problem assembling the wires and removing and replacing the fender. I look forward to other videos posted.
I'm just going to splice as you did, no real need to spend 80 on a new plug.
Thanks for this video.
Still going strong in my CRV
@@hondaresource That's what we love to hear 😄
A tip: I would have tested that everything works before putting on the shrink tube if I had any concerns over the colour coding of the wires (I don't) or the success of the soldering. I am about to fix a 1998 CR-V driver door window motor wiring and this video was very helpful as I am now going to try to do it without removing the fender first. Just unclip the door connector and fix the one cable joint at the connector. In this case it's one of window motor cables. Thank you for posting this.
Turns out the wire was cut just at the connector so I will be doing a complete harness overhaul.
How would you test it without heat shrinks and all the wires shorting together since there’s no heat shrinks?
@@costenc I finished the job some time ago and ended up having to remove the fender (rather difficult job given that some of the bolts were stuck). What I meant to say is "without putting on the large shrink tube over the small individual ones and leaving the small ones either waiting over the wires slightly removed from the soldering or over the soldering and not heated so I can move them around and bending the wires so that they don't touch each other."
Worked fine for me.
Once tested I moved the tubes over the solder spots and shrunk them and then the large tube over the whole lot and warmed that just enough for it to shrink over the loom and not move, but not so tight that it would not bend at all.
The guy making this video did not use a large tube over the loom, but I felt it safer to do that as it is in a spot where it is constantly stressed by the opening and closing of the drivers door. I also took the rubber boot from the connector and used that and some silicone to seal the hole in the door frame.
I took pictures, but there is no place here to post them.
Hope this helps. 😊
@@youhoneycoyvunen8964 I just did it again to another crv. Success.👍🏻
Thanks for a great instructional video. I did the same job about 5 years ago but what I did was saved the connectors and bored holes big enough to send the wires through. Taking off the fender is a great idea as I didn't do that and spent more time than needed to putting the wires together in close quarters.
Yeah that could be frustrating doing it without removing the fender
Thanks for your videos. Your video helped me in a pinch with my breaks lights staying on due to the grommet breaking off that pushes against the break switch. Quick fix, took me less than ten seconds.
Good deal!
Dude,
I've got a good feeling about this project.
I can already see it lowered, painted, engine and interior detail, custom headlight and window tinting, and sweet VIP style rims!
If not, I'll just cancel my subscription...
🤣🤣🤣 this one is a flip. I'd love to find a manual ebp though
Great content, just got a 98 work in progress. Trying to undo half @$$ jobs from previous owner, slowly but surely with the help of your awesome videos sir, blessings.
That's awesome man, I've actually gotta do this job on my personal crv asap
That was very helpful, I always check out this channel when I discover a new problem with my crv.
Been thinking about doing the same job to my '97 CR-V because the passenger lock won't work and pretty sure its because of a severed wire in the same spot. Also, driver and passenger side windows have slowed down and don't think the motors are the reason. Your CR-V tutorials are great and always look forward to them. Cheers
Most likely this for sure. I have to do this on the passenger side for another one at the shop
Nice to see another approach to this issue. 2000 Civic EK with similar issue.
Thanks for watching!
This video helped me. Someone cut the wires and I didn’t know if the wires connected to the same colors.
I’ve been waiting for this video. This will be my next project. Thank you Philip.
Thanks for the video, I have similiar problem my door locks don't work.
As you mentioned, this solution makes removing the door a problem.
There is a way to 'repin' the existing connector, or just use a different connector so it can be detached.
The biggest hassle is removing the fender...I think it may be easier to remove the door instead to get to the wires.
Ooof I was about to pull the trigger on the harness, but I find it easier going color to color then pin to pin. Going to give this method a shot. She's a beater with 271k don't wanna spend $100 on something that's gonna take the same amount of time. 🙌🏼
Good luck man!
Perfect timing man, I hope I don't have this problem, but awesome fix
Thanks man, I fixed mine the same way you did, I found 17 wires been disconnected, cheap fix it is, and cery effective, I got.back all.funcrions but still.i am.going.t9 check the password.ger door harness, because I removed the fuse if the power window front passengers side, Andy car engine runs better that mean there is a disconnected and shorted wires there.
Good deal
I followed your advice and it work out
Good deal
Definitely too scared to do electrical shit but thanks for the knowledge! Much appreciated 👊🏽
Thank you for the link for the harness brother. Much appreciated.
Thanks for another very helpful video, this is none to soon!
Welcome!
Great video! My windows work but only the drivers door locks/unlocks with the remote. I'll check the fuses first and go from there.
Which two wires would I jump to roll my window up from that connector ?
Wow! Once again, you’re my life saver. Thanks so much for all your excellent videos!!
You're welcome
just so you know, you can lock/unlock the driver's door with the door open, but you need to pull the door handle when you hit the lock button. with the handle disconnected,you'd have to pull on the rod, but if should still work!
it's weird, but I think it's a Honda thing.
I'm aware, but thanks for the heads up. Hard to do all that holding a camera with one hand
@@hondaresource good point! Thanks for the awesome content!
Yes I didn’t know till I read the owner’s manual 💪👍🏻
Adding a new connector would have definitely been a better route. Now if the door has to ever be removed you either have to remove the connector from the fuse box or disconnect all the connections inside the door and pull the entire harness out of the door after removing the door panel. It's best to do the job right the first time to meet oem quality standards than to perform a short cut.
❤ I’m having that same issue now
I've seen it many times
I need some help please. I seem to have one wire that doesn't go to anything, the GRAY wire for the horn, I have just one of them. Where should I connect that wire to? Please some help, thank you!! It's a 2001 crv
That driver door harness messed up my car operation, engine and transmission, ECM went crazy, after one year and half of part replacment good used honda OEM, with no results, i just removed all fuses related to power windows and power door lock, ( because i notice enginge RPM goes down when i use windows or door lock,), and my car went back to normal, all problems went away, smooth shifting, and engine idling, car power is back.
Problems were: hard and delay transmission shifting, engine misfire ,loss of power at load uphill with RPM goes up and down when accelerating, and last disaster just month sago, check engine light hight voltage upstream O2 sensor, (O2 is a denso and still new just 6 months ago ) with loss of acceleration in a few second and sometimes trigger code misfire in any cylinder instead, with also loss of acceleration in few second.
After installing an aftermarket stereo and amp, the number of door wires is not so different. You do have to sit at the car to do the wiring. With stereo and amp harnesses you can wire them inside in the air conditioning and just plug them in when you put all the components in.
Hardest part of the audio system besides taking the old stereo out? The damn dash kit. The tabs were not properly labeled and I cut the wrong ones on the bottom, so had to get another dash kit and repeat the process leaving the correct lower tabs this time. Now I need to replace the speakers. I bought my CR-V used when it was 3 years old, and the previous owner had put in aftermarket component speakers in the front. They left the rear speakers as stock, so those are a plug and play replacement, and the one that still works sounds great. The replacement front speakers don't sound so good anymore. After I finish other work for which I have parts and tools, I'll fix the driver's door wiring harness and install new speakers.
Mine also has the OEM CD changer that goes under the front seat, and it still works. The only thing that didn't work on the OEM radio is the volume knob. It needs to be replaced. The potentiometer costs about $1, but I'm not up to soldering on a circuit board. If you want the OEM radio and CD changer I'll send them to you. I'm pretty sure you would be able to replace the volume pot. Then it will work fine. I don't know, you might be able to install the CD changer/OEM radio into a CR-V you're selling. I enjoyed the system for 23 years and was sorely disappointed that new head units cannot be attached to the OEM CD changer. I really liked that thing. I got a unit with a CD player instead. It's nice to have Bluetooth, hands-free calling, music and books and podcasts from my phone, and phone-based navigation. But...
Good stuff! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
I have a 2006 CRV and passenger wire harness is broken at the hinge. Do you have easy fix for this one?
nice work. i do have one question? did you fill the hole in the door around the wires? maybe put some pipe insulation or something similar around the wires?
if you come to colombia i´ll pay you to fix my car jajajja, let me know. (huge fan)
Thank you, one of my former co-workers just retired to Columbia
Omg thanks so much I’m going to get work asap on mine thanks
Awesome, mine has this problem and its frustrating, but I am selling mine since I got an element, probably let it be someone elses headache.
I got the same issues thanks
You saaaaved my butt, thanks man!
Mine has been flawless since!
How were you able to have so much door wiring. I can barely get my plug out the side.
That darn cody!!!
Man my wires do not match. I have 14 in the door and 11 on the plug so now I’m afraid to cut it off
Thankyou, your videos have been helpful
Thank you
Does this problem cause both door lock switches to fail, or just the driver's side one?
I'm currently shopping for a 1st gen and the first one I saw, neither of the switches to lock the doors worked, but the power windows did actually work.
This can happen on both front doors. More common for driver door due to use, but I've repaired several passenger doors as well
Great video love your channel bro but I have a request think you could do a in dept video about double din radios on the rd1 I have one of those 7 inch cheap double din but it doesn’t fit especially with the trim that’s suppose to go around the radio idk 🤷♂️ lol just asking that’ll be very cool and super useful for all us anyways thanks for the content can’t wait for more !!
Perhaps one day when I get one for mine!
@@hondaresource 😱(thought you were to cool to reply lol) dude that would be sooo helpful and appreciated by all of us it’s hard to find one that fits anyways love your content keep it coming and good luck 👍
@@jasongonzalez8341 I try to reply to everyone, sometimes it's just slow
I gotta do this, I got a door from pick apart and when I took old door off found a few broken 1s , I’m guessing it’s supposed to be filled with grease ? Is it dielectric grease?
It's dielectric
Keep up the awesome videos! Love them brother!
Dear Honda Resource,
MY car is Honda CR-V 1997 (RD1). Could you kindly let me know the wire size or give me a link for where to buy it on amazon to fix my door harness? Thank you very much!
I didn't buy any wire. There are links to the products I used in the description
My 1999 Prelude had this same issue!!
Hopefully you can fix it the same way
How do you test the wires individually to see if they go together. Unfortunately not all my wires match. I think someone else did previous work on that side
Awesome. I have to do this soon
thank you very much :)
You're welcome!
Honda crv 2 also has a problem with the wiring, is there a video for analysis?
I haven't had experience with it
Does this ever happen to the rear doors? Ik it’s the issue with my front doors. But I’ve got a rear window that gets no power whatsoever (still need to check voltage at actual connector)
I've not seen it on CRV. Definitely common on rear of f150
Boss i have honda ej9 sedan and i have 1 brown cable in the door and 3 blue's where i plug the brown cable
I'm not sure.
Was this an LX model? Trying to figure out my keyless entry on my 2001 LX. My window also doesn't work, thanks for the heads up!
This one was an LX
thanks bro
Which fuses did you have to change? 13:39 ??
Hey man can you talk about the Evap system and how to possibly trouble shoot. I have a 2000 crv with b20z and the main problem I have with it is 1. Evap system is bad, but in your experience when I go up hills it will go from 80 to 60 mph quick just bogs down I have no codes nothing just the Evap could that be causing this issue. It is a AWD automatic. Any advice would help it has 50000 miles
evap canister valve/solenoid & replace pvc valve
Anything on how the lights are wired up on the passenger side headlight ? Someone cut the wires on the Crv I just picked up… I have yellow/green, yellow/red and 2 black wires.. driver side looks like it has 6 wires?
So I was gonna cut the plug in my 98 and wire it like yours but I don’t even have some wires that are the same.
Hey thanks for the great content as always!
Just have a quick question - I have a 98 honda crv in Toronto Canada , recently I noticed a fuse got busted and was resposible for the day-light module , then a couple of weeks after the window at the passenger side stopped working form the switch at the door (however still functions from the central control unit at the driver side) ... not to metion that also my door central lock was not responding to any of the remote controller commands ... am wondering if the common issues of wires via the door jams can be the rootcause of all those issues?
Cheers
Nice vid
it really help mi out thx alot
Glad it helped
Have you ever had issues with the interior lock switches and key fob lock opening the rear hatch? My locks stopped working and now when they’re activated it just opens the rear hatch window instead of unlocking or locking the car 😅
Most likely broken wires like these
@@hondaresource exactly what I was thinking just gotta whit being lazy and dig into that harness finally lol thank you!
Is this just a driver side door problem? My passenger side front door is not working. I replaced the window motor and still not getting any power to the window motor. Power door locks working. All other doors windows are working but just not the passenger side front.
Both front doors do it, driver is more common due to use.
Thank you. I'll probably just go ahead and do both of them at once so I shouldn't have to worry about it anymore.
I have a 2000 CR-V and it doesn’t look like all the wires from the body side have a matching color in the door side. Any variances in wiring or am I missing something?
Same here now I have open wires hanging cause I can't match all the wires
Love the idea
Works like a charm and cheap
Good video bro! I'm having the issue just with my door locks and passenger front window. The locks seem like they want to work but not doing anything as for the passenger window it doesn't want to go down. Any insight for my RD1?
Have you checked the wires in the door jam?
@@hondaresource I haven't yet but. I checked fuses they are good. But I'm buying a probe tomorrow to see if I'm getting any voltage.
@@hondaresource would that be in the driver side door jam or passenger ?
hey odd question, I have an RD1 and a 2nd gen 2004. Looks like the speaker wires are identical for both in the Front doors. I can't get the front left speaker to function, I've tried a spare speaker, and adjusted the entertainment system - the wires are perfect from the speaker to at least all the way to the pin connector beside the hood latch. I've checked the harness behind the stereo as well, and did a reset on the stereo itself. Either the wires were miraculously damaged under the dash, or the stereo itself isn't sending power to the front left speaker. Have you ever experienced this?
is the issue on the rd1 or the 2nd gen?
@@hondaresource its on the 2nd gen. My hunch is that its straight from the source, the stereo. I’m hoping to connect 12v to the back of the harness and see whats up
Where is the link to Mitch Mitten? Also does he has them for 98 Honda civics?
Is the rear door glass popper in that batch of wiring?
No sir
@@hondaresource thanks homie!
Hi guys, Gary here, I'm having this issue on my passenger door on my 2000 CRV. I mistakenly went to the wrecker and bought the harness plug with pigtails for $50 (Don't do it, the wires in them are worn and will break just on installation). I am doing it this way now but the problem I'm having is the wires in the door side are not colored the same as the body side or they have a body side (female) brw/wht joins with a door side (male) red/green for example. It gets confusing. So far my window goes up but not down, my mirror goes sideways but not up and down and my door lock works. If you could tell me which wires on the door side do what I'd be more than happy, All help is appreciated. Tomorrow is a new day.
I dont have one to compare for you.
Not sure if you solved this issue yet but the top comment guy said there’s a difference between some years of crv so make sure you have the same connectors for the years even if they are rd1
Where can you buy that pigtail from Mitch? Online? Info?
yeah. Look him up on facebook.
I need to check my drivers door motor, there is 4 wires in the connector what 2 wires do I hook to a battery
I dont remember off the top of my head. I have may covered that on my video replacing the window motor / regulator
Hey! Thanks a lot!
No problem!
Got 01 crv that's giving me the blues
Hopefully you get it squared away
the control module in the door controls the keyless entry can you tell the difference if keyless or not ? I want to add keyless entry
No, the keyless module is behind the radio I believe
Key modules are down at lower kick panel. You can also use a keyless module entry from a civic (96/00 ex model is most common). A lot of the 99/01 crv`s already have modules in them and u just need to get a fob and program it. But if you don't have keyless entry module. Get one from donor car. Plug in and program. ( The civic one will only open doors). So if you want ur back hatch to open with fob you need to get a crv module ( found in the ex and special edition crv`s).
Hey Honda resource! 2000 crv Awd ex here. This is a great video and I have used it to help my door jam wiring issues. However I’m curious if you’ve come across this issue I’m having and if there’s more to it than just what you do here in this video. My passenger side window wasn’t working and I did this to that side and it works good now! I think the speaker was out on that side before too. Anyway I’ve been putting off the drivers side till recently. I was having an issue with the door locking switch- it would lock on its own immediately after I would hit unlock with the door open. So I thought doing this project here in this video would certainly solve that issue. Took it to a mechanic and told him I wanted it done, I didn’t have the time- told him to remove pin connector and splice wires together as I want it done the cheapest way possible. Well after he did his thing the speaker on that side wasn’t working when it did before. The passenger side speaker would go out but then come back if I hit the drivers side window up or down quickly. Weird. And the lock thing changed to only working with door closed which I though ok that’s better than it possibly locking me out of the car (if I had left the keys in and hit unlock with door open and it just immediately locked on its own). So eventually the door lock stopped working all together. Today I finally decided to dig into it myself and check that door jam wiring only to find the mechanic did a half ass shitty job- leaving pin connector in place and only jumping some wires around it…using extra wire and two splice points. I took it all apart and did it as you do here in this video. Tested and lock switch is back but back to what it was originally doing locking right after unlock while door open. I’m curious if it’s a security lock thing now. The speaker unfortunately still doesn’t work on drivers side which I find odd now that wiring is all good on that side- the passenger side speaker still has that weird thing with the window switch too. I still have to go to the passenger side now because lord knows how or what the mechanic did for that side even though I had already removed that pin connector prior to bringing it to him- I just wanted him to make what I had on there better like this heat shrink tubing u use here. But now I will have to verify everything’s good on that side. So could my speaker on drivers side be blown? And what do you think about this locking issue I am having with the lock switch with the door open?? Is there any kind of weird security issue that would cause the lock switch to reverse rt away after unlocking with door open.
Ok update: i checked over the entire passenger side which isn’t as easy as matching colors necessarily- found a diagram/chart online. Glad I went over it because two that were to be unused were being used. As for the drivers side stereo- found that issue. Knew my stereo wasn’t blown because I tried the working passenger side one in drivers side plug and that didn’t work- went over that wiring again and actually found that there were two thinner blue wires from and to door, one of them was for stereo so decided two switch those pairs up and it worked! The closer I looked they did actually have little small gray marks on them and one had one of those marks spaced out while the other had two gray marks close together spaced out. So those were the matching pairs. This in turn fixed the drivers power window up or down taking stereo in and out issue too.
As for the locking issue. I’m still curious what you guys at Honda Resource have to say about that. I think it is a feature of security thing. The more I dabbled with it today, I noticed it will not do that (lock immediately after unlocking while I have door open) if I have the keys in the vehicle running. However it will if I don’t have the car running- makes me think it’s a feature of the vehicle that automatically locks it if one unlocks it while driver door is open and car isn’t running 🤷🏻♂️. I don’t know, I don’t like it though. I wish there was a way to fix or change it.
Yea it doesn’t even let me lock it with door open and car running- I guess that’s good!
Rd2 is 02 to 06. AWD and fwd
Rd1 is first generation fwd and awd
No it's not. Rd2 is fwd 1st Gen. 02-06 is rd6/rd7
How can I get a hold of Mitch?
I did the fix but my switch works backwards now. anybody know what I did wrong?
I have this problem got those plugs still haven’t did it yet looks easier this way
about the same amount of work either way. Just make sure the pins are in the correct location if you use the connector.
hey ive been watching alot of your videos i recently picked up a 2000 crv and the SRS light is on and ABS comes on every once in awhile just curious if you have a video on common issues quick fixes and repairs for that?
also my key fob only locks and locks the drivers side door is that normal? or would this door harness possibly be the problem?
A good scanner should tell you the issues with abs and srs. The fob issue definitely could be the door harness
@@hondaresource hey thanks for the response man! ill def look into a scanner, i enjoy all the content you make for RD1 Crvs ever since i got my own ive been in love with it and after seeing your "passenger seat arm rest" video i went straight to the junk yard and found the last matching interior arm rest they had best upgrade so far! lol Keep up the good work man!
What size heat shrink did you use?
I'm not sure honestly. Maybe 1/8
I need to do mine. I tried to save the connector and repin the broken wires but I broke more wires and broke the connector because it's all brittle. I should've just done it this way from the beginning I'd be done by now.
it's aggravating for sure.
OK, so no window it is.
I can't find the link to I believe you said mich michum not sure how to spell his name but it was for the pig tell
I just installed a stereo on my 97... door speaker and door lock wouldn't work unless the door was open.. I have about 8 wires that came out
Hopefully that'll get you fixed up
@@hondaresource It was very helpful, thank you!
My driver side window only goes up/down while door is wide open. If it’s closed, it doesn’t work. Hopefully I won’t have to splice the whole harness
That's how mine started acting up. Eventually it all stopped working
@@Steve25901 I’m definitely gonna open it up to see if things are holding up
Noice!!!
Your videos have helped me a lot with my 99 CR-V. My current problem is the right front pass door lock won't operate with the driver's door switch. All 3 other locks work OK. I pulled R/F door panel off and pulled the actuator out. I tested that there is power from the switch to the last connector leading to the actuator. I got a actuator from the junk yard, and I tested it directly from the battery and it worked. So did the old one I took out. So I followed your directions, and after pulling my bumper and L/F fender off, I examined the 23 wires in the plug in the driver's door. 4 had cuts where they rubbed against the plug side, including the door lock wire (yel/red). I then cut the wires to the plug, and soldered all 23 wires together as you did. Everything worked except the R/F pass door lock. What do I do now? Do I need to ditch the plug o the r/f door, and solder those wires together?
Yeah, probably the plug on the pass door
You forgot the how you take off the outside molding
can you use butt connectors
you could but I'm not a huge fan of them. Water can get in there and corrode the connection
How much you charge to do it?
This one is one of mine. I don't really know what price tag to put on it
That’s a good question I bet a shop will charge 500$ or better thanks for this video will those wires effect rear speaker audio
My door locks and drive side speakers don’t work but windows still roll down as normal
@@arsonesounthonevichith3959 probably the door pins
@@arsonesounthonevichith3959 same
I did the driver side perfectly but the passenger has wires that are different colors and door has more wire then what’s under fender can you do passenger side
I have 10 wires from fender and 14 wires from passenger door any help
I have one here now that needs it
@@hondaresource nice I thought it was gonna be as easy as the driverside till I seen that
Link to mitch?
I pinned it in the comments
@@hondaresource thank you!
I feel like that harness going bad is common
It's pretty common for sure
@@hondaresource just checked mine. I’ll be working on this during the week! I can’t thank you enough! What’s the process if I wanted to drop off my CRV at your yard for some work?!
@@Ivansquarepants unfortunately I'm not taking any customers at this time
This a pain in the ass
Cody’s a Stud