Come down the rabbit hole 🐇 🕳 with us. Pick a car in your lot that doesn’t perform as well and start with just tuning the tires. You’ll get about 90% of your performance that way. If you don’t have a tire truer, get a couple pieces of sand paper and remove the concave and convex areas of your tire. Just enough.
I was looking at tyre tuners today on line but I could not see anyone seling the razor tyre tuner .I don't want to take the wheel off the axel so what would you suggest and what would be the best power supply.
Not sure what's out there now, I may have gotten a last run of the tire razor, but I will look. I have a video on building a power supply from an old PC power supply... ruclips.net/video/0akGmeduwH8/видео.html
Thank you for this very informative video. I’m new to the hobby and would like to know more about your power supply. I don’t see anything like it on online.
Hi John, I've been following your great channel and I have a question. I've been having problems with my Carrera slot car track. I have this track for three years now without any issue. The problem started about three months ago. After one or two weeks without running, the track starts to have electric conductivity issues. I mean, the cars stop all over the place. I always clean the dust on the track with electrostatic dust catching cloths and also the cars sliding contacts before each session so, that wasn't the issue. I even changed the sliding contacts for new ones. So, I decided to clean all the track metal strips with ethilic alcohol 70% and the problem was solved. After cleanup, the cloth I use was filled with a brown residue that apparently was deposited on the metal strips. After that, I ran the cars every day for two weeks without any problem but, after another week without running, the issue was back again. PS: I don't detect any corrosion on the tracks Do you know what this brown residue is? I have the track on a humid environment. Could this be the problem? Is the alcohol I used harmful in any way? Is there a better product to clean the metal strips? Is there a better solution? Thanks ruclips.net/video/RrapQrVl8T8/видео.html
Hiya! The brown residue is normal. The Rails are stainless steel, so they won't rust, but buildup is normal. I wipe down the track with alcohol, and then after that dries (and if I am doing a deep clean) I spray WD-40 on a rag, and wipe the track down really good. This also helps remove the tire rubber buildup in the corners. Immediately follow up with a clean dry rag to wipe the track surface dry, and buff the Rails. You will want the track to dry for a few hours before you run on it, it will be slick otherwise. But when it drys, you will find increased traction, and the Rails will feel "slick" when you run your finger over them. Hope this helps!!
Got it a while back from Carrera Slots. I don't know if the guy that builds these is still doing it. Last word I got, he had COVID, and didn't know if he was continuing. I hope he does!! Great product!!
hi are you doing any more videos as my dad as been following your videos and he said you havent done any in a year. we just wondering if you stopped doing them
im sorry to here that. my dad was following your videos when he wasnt well hope you are on the mend. my dad loves your videos and is in the middle of building his own track. he look forwward to seeing your videos again@@slotcarmayhem9765
Hi, I am new to larger scale slot cars. I have only owned HO scale. I was curious about when you glued the body mounts. Does it affect the handling of the car or is it just to remove the rattle noise?
I like creative ideas like making and installing guides on 1:28 rc cars. My question is are these processes good for any scale tires and electric motors. And whts your opinion on running micro rc cars on a slot track.
John, I sure hope your doing ok, I just wanted to let you know that I did 3 new. cars this way, the first 2 I ran for about 2 hours and the last one I ran 10 hours. The last one is the fast car I have in my fleet lol. The other 2 are the 2 and 3rd fastest cars I have. Thank you very much for this very important video. I paid $33.45 for my 10W-40 gallon at Lowes. take care
Help! So far I have used this break-in on three motors. The first one gave me mirror results as you mentioned in the video. The other two did not produce as good of results, meaning, the amps. did not increase much at all. I ran both for 24hrs. All three cars were old, and ran on the track quite a bit before breaking in the motor. I was wondering if this could be the reason for poor results after the 24hrs. of break-in? Take care, Ron
Well used motors are already "broken in", meaning the brush profile matches the comm. They are not broken in gently, and you will find a new motor broken in gently will outlast a motor that is broken in on the track.
Great to see you back!!! Thanks for the update. Thanks for the tuning video. Question. 🙋 Can I do that break-in process to a motor that has over 5k laps already or does it need to be a brand spanking new motor?
I just finished the break-in on a 1/24 Audi R8 LMS. 22hrs. @ 3.3v. When I put the car on the track I notice a whining sound coming from the car. The same sound that the car gives off out of the box, but now it is much louder almost like a siren sound. Where could this sound be coming from? I put a drop of oil at both ends of the motor and greased the pinion gear and all four wheels. What are your thoughts John?
im a little confused at how you are judge in your efficency of the motor you are looking at the amps the motor draws to run .... you have nothing showing your output watts what you are infact seeing is the watts used to drive the motor..... so with those numbers increasing....that is actually showing that it is drawing more amperage to drive the motor so if you ask me um thats a drop in efficency no?
Agreed. Efficiency n= Pin / Pout by definition. But we do see a change in amps- probably due to reduced resistance at the "now conforming" brushes delivering more of the applied volts to the armature windings. This leads to higher rpm which drives more bearing resistance, both of which increase output power. On top of this, these no/low load tests don't reflect the performance in service at higher loads, volts, and amps. That will show up as punch, accel, deccel/braking performance which should all be stabilized and better after motor break-in. But kudos to John for taking the measurements & for taking the time to share his know how and process in any case.
Next time please take the car put of the box before you begin filming … and spare us the usual, almost five minutes long, typical north American, ‘life history’ and pronouncement of undying gratitude. Thanks.
New to slot cars so basically just been running cars straight out the box. There was a lot of good helpfull information in the video thank you.
Honestly, playing and improving the cars become a huge (and enjoyable!) part of the hobby. Still my favorite part.
Come down the rabbit hole 🐇 🕳 with us. Pick a car in your lot that doesn’t perform as well and start with just tuning the tires. You’ll get about 90% of your performance that way. If you don’t have a tire truer, get a couple pieces of sand paper and remove the concave and convex areas of your tire. Just enough.
I was looking at tyre tuners today on line but I could not see anyone seling the razor tyre tuner .I don't want to take the wheel off the axel so what would you suggest and what would be the best power supply.
Not sure what's out there now, I may have gotten a last run of the tire razor, but I will look.
I have a video on building a power supply from an old PC power supply...
ruclips.net/video/0akGmeduwH8/видео.html
Welcome back John greetings from Holland and thanks again for your excellent content
Thank you!! Good to be back!!!
Its fantastic to have you back John, really missed your content, congratulations on the new position
Thanks, it's good to be back!!!
Great to have you back. 👍
Feels good too!!
Thank you for this very informative video. I’m new to the hobby and would like to know more about your power supply. I don’t see anything like it on online.
Thanks for this video, young fella!
Lol I'm anything buy young!! Lol
Very informative vid for us newbies. Can you tell me the manufacturer and model# of your power supply or an equivalent? Thank you.
Good to have you back, John. Was beginning to wonder if something had happened to you since the last video - thankfully not.
Great tutorial, thank you so much. May you please elaborate on how to make the BATH OF WD40 to break in the motor? Thanks again, M
I simply (gently) spray WD-40 directly into a jar, enough to fully submerge the motor.
You can buy WD-40 in gallon cans as well.
@@slotcarmayhem9765 Excellent, thanks, I will try this method :)
Great to see you back John!
Thanks!!! Good to be back!!
Great to have you back.
Hi John, I've been following your great channel and I have a question.
I've been having problems with my Carrera slot car track. I have this track for three years now without any issue. The problem started about three months ago. After one or two weeks without running, the track starts to have electric conductivity issues. I mean, the cars stop all over the place.
I always clean the dust on the track with electrostatic dust catching cloths and also the cars sliding contacts before each session so, that wasn't the issue. I even changed the sliding contacts for new ones.
So, I decided to clean all the track metal strips with ethilic alcohol 70% and the problem was solved. After cleanup, the cloth I use was filled with a brown residue that apparently was deposited on the metal strips.
After that, I ran the cars every day for two weeks without any problem but, after another week without running, the issue was back again.
PS: I don't detect any corrosion on the tracks
Do you know what this brown residue is?
I have the track on a humid environment. Could this be the problem?
Is the alcohol I used harmful in any way?
Is there a better product to clean the metal strips?
Is there a better solution?
Thanks
ruclips.net/video/RrapQrVl8T8/видео.html
Hiya! The brown residue is normal. The Rails are stainless steel, so they won't rust, but buildup is normal.
I wipe down the track with alcohol, and then after that dries (and if I am doing a deep clean) I spray WD-40 on a rag, and wipe the track down really good. This also helps remove the tire rubber buildup in the corners. Immediately follow up with a clean dry rag to wipe the track surface dry, and buff the Rails.
You will want the track to dry for a few hours before you run on it, it will be slick otherwise. But when it drys, you will find increased traction, and the Rails will feel "slick" when you run your finger over them.
Hope this helps!!
Thanks John, I will do that😀
Great stuff bud ..where did you buy your true tire machine
Got it a while back from Carrera Slots. I don't know if the guy that builds these is still doing it. Last word I got, he had COVID, and didn't know if he was continuing. I hope he does!! Great product!!
Welcome back
hi are you doing any more videos as my dad as been following your videos and he said you havent done any in a year. we just wondering if you stopped doing them
Hiya! Hoping to start again soon, had heart surgery.
im sorry to here that. my dad was following your videos when he wasnt well hope you are on the mend. my dad loves your videos and is in the middle of building his own track. he look forwward to seeing your videos again@@slotcarmayhem9765
If you have had good results, keep it up. But you never want oil on your brushes. Break in in water works just fine.
can i do the same with the 18v motors for the bigger slotcars?
Hi,
I am new to larger scale slot cars. I have only owned HO scale. I was curious about when you glued the body mounts. Does it affect the handling of the car or is it just to remove the rattle noise?
I like creative ideas like making and installing guides on 1:28 rc cars. My question is are these processes good for any scale tires and electric motors. And whts your opinion on running micro rc cars on a slot track.
John, I sure hope your doing ok, I just wanted to let you know that I did 3 new. cars this way, the first 2 I ran for about 2 hours and the last one I ran 10 hours. The last one is the fast car I have in my fleet lol. The other 2 are the 2 and 3rd fastest cars I have. Thank you very much for this very important video. I paid $33.45 for my 10W-40 gallon at Lowes. take care
Great video!👍🏻
Help! So far I have used this break-in on three motors. The first one gave me mirror results as you mentioned in the video. The other two did not produce as good of results, meaning, the amps. did not increase much at all. I ran both for 24hrs.
All three cars were old, and ran on the track quite a bit before breaking in the motor. I was wondering if this could be the reason for poor results after the 24hrs. of break-in? Take care, Ron
Well used motors are already "broken in", meaning the brush profile matches the comm. They are not broken in gently, and you will find a new motor broken in gently will outlast a motor that is broken in on the track.
@@slotcarmayhem9765 A lesson learned. I will make sure to not bypass the break-in process in the feature on new cars.
Great to see you back!!! Thanks for the update. Thanks for the tuning video. Question. 🙋
Can I do that break-in process to a motor that has over 5k laps already or does it need to be a brand spanking new motor?
Hi, I doubt you will see a big gain breaking in a motor already broken in, but you can try for a couple hours to help remove carbon...
@@slotcarmayhem9765 great idea. should i do the WD40 and the cleaner or just the electrical cleaner?
Use both. 12 hours in WD40, followed by 4 minutes in the plastic safe contact cleaner.
If a well used motor, maybe 2-4 hours in WD40, as the brushes are already seated. Try, and let me know please!!
I just finished the break-in on a 1/24 Audi R8 LMS. 22hrs. @ 3.3v. When I put the car on the track I notice a whining sound coming from the car. The same sound that the car gives off out of the box, but now it is much louder almost like a siren sound. Where could this sound be coming from? I put a drop of oil at both ends of the motor and greased the pinion gear and all four wheels. What are your thoughts John?
Sounds like gear mesh...
@@slotcarmayhem9765 I will apply more grease then, Thanks.
Where did you get the power supply and tire razor?
Bought the Tire Razor several years ago, built the power supply from an old PC power supply.
hey john question ..can you do the same break in with a carrera 124 scale motor
I don't see why not, I do it with a lot of different motors. Really is a smooth break in.
@@slotcarmayhem9765 you are the man bud very helpful thank you
im a little confused at how you are judge in your efficency of the motor you are looking at the amps the motor draws to run .... you have nothing showing your output watts what you are infact seeing is the watts used to drive the motor..... so with those numbers increasing....that is actually showing that it is drawing more amperage to drive the motor so if you ask me um thats a drop in efficency no?
Agreed. Efficiency
n= Pin / Pout by definition. But we do see a change in amps- probably due to reduced resistance at the "now conforming" brushes delivering more of the applied volts to the armature windings. This leads to higher rpm which drives more bearing resistance, both of which increase output power. On top of this, these no/low load tests don't reflect the performance in service at higher loads, volts, and amps. That will show up as punch, accel, deccel/braking performance which should all be stabilized and better after motor break-in.
But kudos to John for taking the measurements & for taking the time to share his know how and process in any case.
Your back!!!! Welcome
Good to be back!! Thanks!!
Yay!
Please try to do your work on the car in front of the camera.
Next time please take the car put of the box before you begin filming … and spare us the usual, almost five minutes long, typical north American, ‘life history’ and pronouncement of undying gratitude. Thanks.
Welcome back!!!
Thank you!! Another video coming hopefully this weekend...