I have and use regularly every one of the tools you recommend with the exception of the moisture meter. I've solved that problem with procrastination. I've got a stock of sapele that has been waiting for me to get to it for seven years. I think it's dry.
If one just views the list (without watching the video), I don’t think there’s any woodworker who would take umbrage with any items but for maybe pipe clamps and the dewalt double edge saw you mentioned. Even in that, your explanations where you qualify those two items firmly put those unequivocally back in the list of 100% true (i.e. someone could very well not need a dewalt saw if they began with another saw). Conversely, the claim that cubitron technology sandpapers are an absolute stand alone category that is spot on is also true on its own. I can’t see how anyone would watch this and find a single spurious listing you’ve made here. Great Video, you obviously spent some time thinking this video through. I don’t think I could make a list like this without putting some genuine thought into it where I wouldn’t be spurious myself. You sir, did a magnificent job here🫡
Thanks so much for your thoughtful comment! It’s great to hear that the list resonated with you. I tried to cover all bases, and I’m glad you felt it was well thought out. Your support means a lot! 😊
I am happy to report that over my 35+ years of manufacturing sawdust, I have 18 out of 20. Don't have a mallet, but just got a lathe last month. Don't have the glue bottle opener, but will have before the day is over. That thing is brilliant. One remark I hear from many who brave the dust and knarly looking tools is " Wow! You have everything!" I just raise my eyebrows...thinking to myself " I'm just getting started 😂"
Yes, I have truly enjoyed your tips, tricks, and basic advice. The pro's and con's of each top is extremely helpful. I am a grandmother on the disabled list, with lots of time to spend with my grandbabies. So, on my good days, I like to see what i can do with wood.
Thank you for sharing your experience. I'm not a new woodworker by any means, however i learned long ago that you always want to listen to the "old timers" and that keeps true in this case. Always end up picking up some new knowledge. Have a great day!
Great video, great tips. I do one thing different. I buy plastic mechanical pencils during the back to school sales. I bought 30 .5 for $6. And to my surprise each one has 3 sets of lead in them. I figured for the price they would have only one and I'd just throw them away when they run out. Since I have so many I keep them all over the shop. And my experience with the 3M Xtract discs is the tear very easily. Just rounding off a corner has had them tear. I agree that they are great but too fragile for me. Take care
Thanks for the excellent video. I have a few of these (especially love my Japanese stule ryoba saw), but a lot here that I would benefit from picking up. Thanks much!
Some excellent recommendations! About the only one that doesn't work for my budget are the pipe clamps. The Harbor Freight clamp mechanisms are pretty cheap, but the 10'- 3/4" galvanized pipe from Home Depot will cost you about $35 plus tax. Two clamps were running about $50 total. I can buy a lot of decent bar clamps from Harbor Freight for that much. I couldn't even find any pipe at my favorite tool supply...Habitat for Humanity's store.
@@davidwright9688 It can be spendy, but no clamp short of the parallel clamp can impart so much force...certainly more than enough to starve the joint of glue if you're not careful. In the last five years (shop #7) I have amassed some thirteen Bessey 1/2" clamp heads and no small amount of Schedule 40 BLACK pipe. Black pipe are what the clamps are designed to work with, NOT galvanized pipe. Galvanized pipe is larger in diameter, restricting tailstock movement and the clutch assembly in the tailstock, at the very least, will severely gouge the soft zinc if not simply scrape it off. Yes...I know black pipe stains your glue-ups. There are ways to mitigate this, however. First off, make a habit of cleaning the pipe with a green scratchy pad (dollar store pads work fine for this), then apply a coat of paste wax. Keeps the pipes clean and makes it easier to scrape of stuck-on glue. I do this once every six months or so. Second tip is an old family secret, but I'll tell you anyway. While you're at the dollar store grabbing green scratchies, pick up a couple rolls of waxed paper. Yep. You heard me. Waxed paper. Take one out of the box and cut it into four equal (ish) parts. Set your bottom clamps out, ready to accept the panel and cover them with the sectioned wax paper. Add panel, squeeze, wait several hours....I mean glue up like you normally would. The waxed paper is not 100% effective, meaning you might get a stain once every ten or twelve times you use the method, but far better than seventeen ugly black stains everywhere...right? I use an uneven number of clamps to glue-up. One more on the bottom than the top. I would typically use three on a cutting board sized panel. Three clamp sets at $15/ea is roughly today's retail price. Three 18" lengths of Sch40 black pipe might be $24/30 at retail, or you can get six on Amazon for about the same price. Be certain to get the 'heavy' rated pipe if you go the Amazon route. You'll be hard pressed to find three parallel clamps in that same price point, and certainly not with the flexibility of thirty second length changes.
Edit: at today's prices (06Jul24) Amazon's price for Bessey 1/2" pipe clamps is $13.99. Their price for 6pcs of 18" heavy duty pipe is $31.99 and for 24" is $36.99. So...$78.98 for three clamps @24". You could knock $5 off that cost by getting the 18" pipes. Either are useful cutting board sized clamp sets. ...and I know the pipe price is for six pieces. You'll either buy into the system, or find a buddy who uses pipe clamps and sell him/her three for $20. Either way, you come out ahead😉
@@woodrowsmith3400 Thanks for taking the time with some great tips! I too use waxed paper for glue ups and to polish feed tables on tools. Almost all of my glueing is 1/2" to 3/4" biscuit-joined pine, so I don't need a lot of clamping power. I do have a couple of long pipe clamps, but almost never use them. The inexpensive Harbor Freight (HF) clamps do the job for me. The Harbor Freight pipe clamp web photo shows galvanized pipe which is why I priced it that way. 18" sections of pipe will give you 14" clamps when you account for the mechanisms. HF gets $12 for each pipe clamp and $6 for an 18" bar clamp that actually is 18". Amazon will charge me shipping since I'm allergic to paying for Prime which likely comes out to about the same as what Home Depot (HD) gets off the floor. All that is why I said that I can buy a lot of relatively light duty clamps from HF that work for me, for what I would invest in pipe clamps.
@@davidwright9688 I use HFT F-style clamps as well. Must have literally forty or so. Do just fine in lighter applications...gluing up boxes, etc. Have close to two dozen Irwin quick-clamps of the medium build in six and twelve inch lengths. Also good for small to medium tasks. I specify the Bessey for pipe clamps as they have 'legs' which lift the work high enough off the table to keep me from cracking my knuckles when I crank down the pressure. The crank handles are also big, heavy cast units as opposed to the wimpy little metal rods that the inexpensive brands feature. I am not as much of a tool snob as I am a tool user. Nobody who picks up one of my boxes is going to know that the wood was resawn on a generic Delta copy bandsaw, planed on a 35yo Ryobi 10" planer or held under glue with Harbor Freight clamps. They are going to know they are holding a well crafted box that is certainly worth the asking price. They are not going to know the box was rough sanded with a Makita orbital, finish sanded with a Bosch orbital and finished with Howard's cutting board conditioner. They just know they like the fit and finish. I sometimes think that crafters...who have evolved into influencers...have taken some of the pure joy out of our craft. I mean...can you tell the difference between a cut made on a used, Offer-Up $50 sixty year old Delta contractor saw and a $3500 Sawstop cabinet saw? Doubt it. Who can tell if the panel you glued up with HFT F-clamps is better than mine glued up with Bessey bar clamps? Tooling is irrelevant. Attention to detail, build quality and an occasional artistic eye or catchy story is. That is what I seek in a finished product, and I'm sure it's that way with you as well. Happy sawdust!
The HF pipe clamp mechanisms are excellent, I use them myself. When I laminated my workbench top (18- 2x4 studs) together, I had two pipes fail at the threads, but I have never had the HF mechanisms fail. I had two from HD break on the screw however. It was a LOT of pressure and not normal, but gave me some good insight. Get good USA made pipe for your pipe clamps and DO NOT USE PIPE FROM CHINA- once it is cut for threads, it is too thin on the walls structurally. Also, if you just get galvanized and sand(or file- I prefer open mesh emery cloth) down any spot that is a little snug from the zinc, it works great
Tool #21- CA glue. Indespensaible for quick glue ups such as making a one time use jig. I use it in different applications in the shop and on the job. Starbond is my choice.
I found Abranet sanding discs a few years ago and even though they are more expensive they last way longer and being a mesh they remove way more dust allowing the sander to work less and the disc to stay cooler and last way longer.
All those mesh sanding disc will require you to buy save-pad type of disc that goes between powertool pad and the actual sanding part as those mesh pads will eventually destroy your pads.
My “secret” for glue bottles is to leave a bit of glue on the tip and leave it open so the glue dries and seals the tip. Then when I need to use it I slam the tip on the bench closing it and popping off any dried glue. Then it opens easily
Plastic pipe isn’t really strong enough and its not threaded on the ends. One of the clamp parts needs that threading to attach to the pipe. So, plastic just isn’t going to work.
If you can afford it (they do cost more) you are better off getting a "pinless" or "flatplate" moisture meter. First because it does not leave "vampire bites" on the wood, and second because it tells you the moisture deep inside the wood whereas the pin-type only tells you the moisture at the surface-depth where the pins push into the wood. This is a big difference if you are working with boards that are 3/4" or thicker.
Really curious what kind/brand of dust mask you use? The blueish one? Really like the velcro straps on that one. Is there somewhere I can pick one like it up please? Thank you!
That’s surprising to me. I’ve been using the same set of brad point bits for years. If it is the brad point itself that’s breaking off or getting dull, it sounds like you must be hitting something as you come out the other side of the bit. If the bit is getting dull, it might be the kind of wood you are using. Keep in mind that brad point bits are only for wood, not for metal.
@@sawinery-woodworking nah they just get dull and does not make as quick work as they used to but at the price they cost(or what i get them for) i'm not complaining
Mallets come in a variety of shapes. Wood carving mallets, like the one I show in the video, are round. But most woodworkers don’t use a round mallet, they typically use a rectangular-headed mallet with angled faces.
I really wouldnt bother with a japanese saw (ryoba, by the way) that isnt made in japan. The temper is wrong, the set is wrong, and the tooth geometry is nothing to write home about either. I've had the one you show a long time ago and it felt great compared to regular box store saws, but the teeth did not last and it would jam easily, to moment I bought a real ryoba I knew how useless the first one I had really was. It is well worth the money to buy original.
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I have and use regularly every one of the tools you recommend with the exception of the moisture meter. I've solved that problem with procrastination. I've got a stock of sapele that has been waiting for me to get to it for seven years. I think it's dry.
If one just views the list (without watching the video), I don’t think there’s any woodworker who would take umbrage with any items but for maybe pipe clamps and the dewalt double edge saw you mentioned. Even in that, your explanations where you qualify those two items firmly put those unequivocally back in the list of 100% true (i.e. someone could very well not need a dewalt saw if they began with another saw). Conversely, the claim that cubitron technology sandpapers are an absolute stand alone category that is spot on is also true on its own. I can’t see how anyone would watch this and find a single spurious listing you’ve made here. Great Video, you obviously spent some time thinking this video through. I don’t think I could make a list like this without putting some genuine thought into it where I wouldn’t be spurious myself. You sir, did a magnificent job here🫡
Thanks so much for your thoughtful comment! It’s great to hear that the list resonated with you. I tried to cover all bases, and I’m glad you felt it was well thought out. Your support means a lot! 😊
I thought Howard Cosell passed away.
Helpful advice without selling!! 👍🏻
I am happy to report that over my 35+ years of manufacturing sawdust, I have 18 out of 20. Don't have a mallet, but just got a lathe last month. Don't have the glue bottle opener, but will have before the day is over. That thing is brilliant.
One remark I hear from many who brave the dust and knarly looking tools is " Wow! You have everything!" I just raise my eyebrows...thinking to myself " I'm just getting started 😂"
Flea markets, garage sales and buy/sell shops are a great place to get tools on the cheap. Picked up a brand new steel ruler for $1.
Yes, I have truly enjoyed your tips, tricks, and basic advice. The pro's and con's of each top is extremely helpful.
I am a grandmother on the disabled list, with lots of time to spend with my grandbabies. So, on my good days, I like to see what i can do with wood.
3M xtract sandpaper is soooo good. It’ll remove material much faster than anything else I’ve used.
The wood glue opener is such an awesome tip!
Try a mustard bottle. So much better.
Thank you for sharing your experience. I'm not a new woodworker by any means, however i learned long ago that you always want to listen to the "old timers" and that keeps true in this case. Always end up picking up some new knowledge. Have a great day!
Thanks! It’s great to know you picked up some new tips. Enjoy your day! 😊
I’m in the buy more pencils camp. I pick up 12dz neon colored mechanical ones and just scatter them around my shop like confetti.
Absolutely great ideas for basic tools for every shop.
Pure gold content as usual, thank you very much!
Really appreciate your support! Glad you enjoyed the video.
Great video. I love watching videos that share affordable gadgets that are helpful to a new woodworker like me.
Thanks, appreciate the support! And glad I could help. 😊
Thank you for video theirs always something new to learn
Great video, great tips.
I do one thing different.
I buy plastic mechanical pencils during the back to school sales. I bought 30 .5 for $6. And to my surprise each one has 3 sets of lead in them. I figured for the price they would have only one and I'd just throw them away when they run out.
Since I have so many I keep them all over the shop.
And my experience with the 3M Xtract discs is the tear very easily. Just rounding off a corner has had them tear. I agree that they are great but too fragile for me.
Take care
Great video as always! Thank you for all you and your team does!
Thanks so much! Your support keeps us going. 😊
Thank you! Wonderful list with great explanations
Thanks! Glad it was useful for you. Appreciate the support!
Thanks for the excellent video. I have a few of these (especially love my Japanese stule ryoba saw), but a lot here that I would benefit from picking up. Thanks much!
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
Some excellent recommendations! About the only one that doesn't work for my budget are the pipe clamps. The Harbor Freight clamp mechanisms are pretty cheap, but the 10'- 3/4" galvanized pipe from Home Depot will cost you about $35 plus tax. Two clamps were running about $50 total. I can buy a lot of decent bar clamps from Harbor Freight for that much. I couldn't even find any pipe at my favorite tool supply...Habitat for Humanity's store.
@@davidwright9688 It can be spendy, but no clamp short of the parallel clamp can impart so much force...certainly more than enough to starve the joint of glue if you're not careful.
In the last five years (shop #7) I have amassed some thirteen Bessey 1/2" clamp heads and no small amount of Schedule 40 BLACK pipe. Black pipe are what the clamps are designed to work with, NOT galvanized pipe. Galvanized pipe is larger in diameter, restricting tailstock movement and the clutch assembly in the tailstock, at the very least, will severely gouge the soft zinc if not simply scrape it off.
Yes...I know black pipe stains your glue-ups. There are ways to mitigate this, however. First off, make a habit of cleaning the pipe with a green scratchy pad (dollar store pads work fine for this), then apply a coat of paste wax. Keeps the pipes clean and makes it easier to scrape of stuck-on glue. I do this once every six months or so. Second tip is an old family secret, but I'll tell you anyway. While you're at the dollar store grabbing green scratchies, pick up a couple rolls of waxed paper. Yep. You heard me. Waxed paper. Take one out of the box and cut it into four equal (ish) parts. Set your bottom clamps out, ready to accept the panel and cover them with the sectioned wax paper. Add panel, squeeze, wait several hours....I mean glue up like you normally would. The waxed paper is not 100% effective, meaning you might get a stain once every ten or twelve times you use the method, but far better than seventeen ugly black stains everywhere...right?
I use an uneven number of clamps to glue-up. One more on the bottom than the top. I would typically use three on a cutting board sized panel. Three clamp sets at $15/ea is roughly today's retail price. Three 18" lengths of Sch40 black pipe might be $24/30 at retail, or you can get six on Amazon for about the same price. Be certain to get the 'heavy' rated pipe if you go the Amazon route. You'll be hard pressed to find three parallel clamps in that same price point, and certainly not with the flexibility of thirty second length changes.
Edit: at today's prices (06Jul24) Amazon's price for Bessey 1/2" pipe clamps is $13.99. Their price for 6pcs of 18" heavy duty pipe is $31.99 and for 24" is $36.99. So...$78.98 for three clamps @24". You could knock $5 off that cost by getting the 18" pipes. Either are useful cutting board sized clamp sets. ...and I know the pipe price is for six pieces. You'll either buy into the system, or find a buddy who uses pipe clamps and sell him/her three for $20. Either way, you come out ahead😉
@@woodrowsmith3400 Thanks for taking the time with some great tips! I too use waxed paper for glue ups and to polish feed tables on tools. Almost all of my glueing is 1/2" to 3/4" biscuit-joined pine, so I don't need a lot of clamping power. I do have a couple of long pipe clamps, but almost never use them. The inexpensive Harbor Freight (HF) clamps do the job for me. The Harbor Freight pipe clamp web photo shows galvanized pipe which is why I priced it that way. 18" sections of pipe will give you 14" clamps when you account for the mechanisms. HF gets $12 for each pipe clamp and $6 for an 18" bar clamp that actually is 18". Amazon will charge me shipping since I'm allergic to paying for Prime which likely comes out to about the same as what Home Depot (HD) gets off the floor. All that is why I said that I can buy a lot of relatively light duty clamps from HF that work for me, for what I would invest in pipe clamps.
@@davidwright9688 I use HFT F-style clamps as well. Must have literally forty or so. Do just fine in lighter applications...gluing up boxes, etc. Have close to two dozen Irwin quick-clamps of the medium build in six and twelve inch lengths. Also good for small to medium tasks. I specify the Bessey for pipe clamps as they have 'legs' which lift the work high enough off the table to keep me from cracking my knuckles when I crank down the pressure. The crank handles are also big, heavy cast units as opposed to the wimpy little metal rods that the inexpensive brands feature.
I am not as much of a tool snob as I am a tool user. Nobody who picks up one of my boxes is going to know that the wood was resawn on a generic Delta copy bandsaw, planed on a 35yo Ryobi 10" planer or held under glue with Harbor Freight clamps. They are going to know they are holding a well crafted box that is certainly worth the asking price. They are not going to know the box was rough sanded with a Makita orbital, finish sanded with a Bosch orbital and finished with Howard's cutting board conditioner. They just know they like the fit and finish. I sometimes think that crafters...who have evolved into influencers...have taken some of the pure joy out of our craft. I mean...can you tell the difference between a cut made on a used, Offer-Up $50 sixty year old Delta contractor saw and a $3500 Sawstop cabinet saw? Doubt it. Who can tell if the panel you glued up with HFT F-clamps is better than mine glued up with Bessey bar clamps? Tooling is irrelevant. Attention to detail, build quality and an occasional artistic eye or catchy story is. That is what I seek in a finished product, and I'm sure it's that way with you as well.
Happy sawdust!
The HF pipe clamp mechanisms are excellent, I use them myself. When I laminated my workbench top (18- 2x4 studs) together, I had two pipes fail at the threads, but I have never had the HF mechanisms fail. I had two from HD break on the screw however. It was a LOT of pressure and not normal, but gave me some good insight. Get good USA made pipe for your pipe clamps and DO NOT USE PIPE FROM CHINA- once it is cut for threads, it is too thin on the walls structurally. Also, if you just get galvanized and sand(or file- I prefer open mesh emery cloth) down any spot that is a little snug from the zinc, it works great
My small square is handy for squaring the table saw blade.
Great video, thanks Rich.
So glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
thank you for the advice.
You're welcome! Hope it helps with your projects.
I made my first woodcarvers mallet with a saw and hand axe!
Tool #21- CA glue. Indespensaible for quick glue ups such as making a one time use jig. I use it in different applications in the shop and on the job. Starbond is my choice.
I found Abranet sanding discs a few years ago and even though they are more expensive they last way longer and being a mesh they remove way more dust allowing the sander to work less and the disc to stay cooler and last way longer.
Thank you very much Sir.🎉
All those mesh sanding disc will require you to buy save-pad type of disc that goes between powertool pad and the actual sanding part as those mesh pads will eventually destroy your pads.
I just found your channel great content, I subbed and liked.
Thank you! I’m happy you’re enjoying the videos.
Good list! I'd make some changes for a hand tool shop, but not many
Orion moisture meter by Wagner is 600.00. Top of the line supposedly.
My “secret” for glue bottles is to leave a bit of glue on the tip and leave it open so the glue dries and seals the tip. Then when I need to use it I slam the tip on the bench closing it and popping off any dried glue. Then it opens easily
Wait until your fingers get old. I have a tough time opening them new.
Instead of the double sided saw, could you not use a multicutter? I ask because I already got one.
I’d go with an awl over a center punch for wood. Similar price.
have a question on the pipe clamps could you use plastic pipe to make it little less weight?
Plastic pipe isn’t really strong enough and its not threaded on the ends. One of the clamp parts needs that threading to attach to the pipe. So, plastic just isn’t going to work.
If you can afford it (they do cost more) you are better off getting a "pinless" or "flatplate" moisture meter. First because it does not leave "vampire bites" on the wood, and second because it tells you the moisture deep inside the wood whereas the pin-type only tells you the moisture at the surface-depth where the pins push into the wood. This is a big difference if you are working with boards that are 3/4" or thicker.
Really curious what kind/brand of dust mask you use? The blueish one? Really like the velcro straps on that one. Is there somewhere I can pick one like it up please? Thank you!
I bought that at Harbor Freight. It is their “Western Safety” mask.
Oh! Brad point instead of twist for wood. Thanks
Just discovered your channel and videos,..l awesome
You’re like the uncle I nevertheless had…👍
Thank you!
i've gone thru more than a dozen brad point bits this yr i must be doing something wrong
That’s surprising to me. I’ve been using the same set of brad point bits for years. If it is the brad point itself that’s breaking off or getting dull, it sounds like you must be hitting something as you come out the other side of the bit. If the bit is getting dull, it might be the kind of wood you are using. Keep in mind that brad point bits are only for wood, not for metal.
@@sawinery-woodworking nah they just get dull and does not make as quick work as they used to but at the price they cost(or what i get them for) i'm not complaining
The mallet has to be round ?
Mallets come in a variety of shapes. Wood carving mallets, like the one I show in the video, are round. But most woodworkers don’t use a round mallet, they typically use a rectangular-headed mallet with angled faces.
I really wouldnt bother with a japanese saw (ryoba, by the way) that isnt made in japan. The temper is wrong, the set is wrong, and the tooth geometry is nothing to write home about either. I've had the one you show a long time ago and it felt great compared to regular box store saws, but the teeth did not last and it would jam easily, to moment I bought a real ryoba I knew how useless the first one I had really was. It is well worth the money to buy original.
Hard disagree. Most of the ryobas I get are cheap with replaceable blades and they work great, much better than other saws at the same price point.
Thanks for the input! For this video, we focused on tools under $30, so the original wouldn't fit the criteria.
@@fontagra.6142 then learn to read. I literally said that it feels good compared to other saws, but it just still a poor imitation of the real saws
My cheapo Irwin has been shockingly good.
pipe clamps? buy the heads and then off to plumbing -have you seen the price of black pipe??? totally obscene
I laugh when I see a guy use a magic marker instead of pencils.
okay
Why does it sound like there’s a shower flowing in your shop?
Because You're A
KAREN!!!
FJB! 🇺🇸🖕🏼👨🏼🦳
You are like a dad without all the hitting