My sister recently got me a machinist ruler for my birthday. Its a solid metal ruler but the measurements start exactly at the end of the ruler, without the little gap. Its helped me become much more accurate in my measurements and for keeping things square!
If you took a pencil-on-paper drafting class, you learned to spin the pencil to keep a fine, consistent line. You are effectively sharpening the lead as you’re drawing.
If you stayed in that class for longer than seven minutes you would also know that you still have to advance your lead, or if using a wooden pencil, SHARPEN IT to keep the lead exposed from the wood.
Yep, I used wax paper for a long time, but the glue still sticks to it and if you have a glue line over it you get wax paper stuck to the glue line and have scrape or sand it off and that wastes a lot of time compared to using the silicone mat that the glue just won't stick to at all.
Haha my first thought when I heard that was he's definitely a woodworker and must not work with metal often. Tiny metal shavings get stuck to everything quick.
I guess nobody has had drafting training like us old guys had. When you drag your pencil across the paper (or wood) you turn it so that it takes a bit of lead off all around leaving a sharp point just like the one you started with. Can't do that with a carpenter pencil, but carpenters seemingly don't pay any attention to the lines anyway. Any pencil will last longer if you use it properly.
Yep, I started out as a drafter, before cad. Who knows what I spent on my mechanical pencils, a lot. I got these pencils after stumpy nubs introducing them. They are by far the best I've used. If people are still breaking lead, they sell them in all different sizes. I like .7 mm. The most. But I bought all the sizes. They are very reasonably priced.
Agreed! However I wouldn't be using a #2 philips head screwdriver on my electronics. I have a whole other set of much smaller specialized tools for working on computers/circuit boards which I would never magnetize to begin with so there would be no need to demagnetize them.
@@MWAWoodworks I get it I have tools for wood working different tools for electronics and different again for automotive work. Was just answering your statement for some who might not know why a de magnetizer lol be safe.
I love the track rack. I have one piece of advice for you is to turn them opposite from the way they are in this video. From experience my silicone track moved where it rested on the track rack. Put the silicone facing upwards where the weight rests on the aluminum instead of the silicone. Keep the great videos coming.
Protect the silicone. Nothing worse than to come out to the shop, and when you pull out your tracks to watch the zero clearance strip snake onto the floor.
I wonder if the weight of the tracks on the garage door will affect the door operation? I know the spring is calibrated to the weight of the door and tracks are not light.
Love your video! I have some of the tools and accessories you showed, and want some of the rest. I too have 1-2-3 blocks and never use them. Maybe I’ll try using them for stop blocks. Or paper weights. I second the comment about the usefulness of a digital caliper. Thanks!
I would add a digital caliper to your very informative list. You can get a good one for less than $10. They have a large digital screen, measure inside and outside diameter and depth. I appreciate the ability to convert inch and millimeter just by pressing a button. The measurement range is from 0-to 6". Calipers in the under $20 can even give you fractions, which allows you convert from inches to fractions to millimeters at the press of a button. I prefer the plastic/carbon fabric ones as they are non-conductive, inexpensive and very durable. For woodworking and home use they are extremely accurate.
The best thing about the FastCap tapes is that they're all very, very consistent from one to another. They are dead-on precise. I always had trouble finding that in other brands and mixing brands. They make "self-stick" versions for table saw and miter saw fences and they even a tape measure with a blank side that you can write on with a pencil so you can use it like a story stick too.
I have both the Pica and Pentel pencils, both have their place. The pica works best for initial rough layout and it has multiple lead colors for dark woods . And I deify you to break it on rough lumber. The pentel is suited better for fine layout lines for precision work on smooth lumber.
Dad used a lead holder and a special “sharpener” that was a grinder that you placed the fixed lead point of the holder in and spun to sharpen. The lead was more durable than the typical HB leads in most mechanical pencils, so needed sharpened less often, and left a crisp, yet lighter, line.
I have gone metric. I have 25x50x75 blocks. I use them often, but generally in conjunction with my I-gauging metric setup block set. I also purchased the fastcap metric tape measures (regular and flatback), largely because that is the only metric brand I could find in the US. I also use calipers often in the wood shop.
As a life long metric user, seeing an imperial tape measure up close is daunting. Hope you're well and having fun sliding the decimal place around for unit conversions.
I use the 1-2-3 block in conjunction with a fence clamp for a use-anywhere stop block. It works on my drill press fence, router fence, table saw fence, etc. since you can rotate it to the optimal height for the particular fence. The pair works great when doing repeatable cuts with my miter gauge on my table saw since I can set my fence to 1 inch more than what I want the cut piece to be, then register the end of the board to the 1-2-3 block .
I have a .5mm and a .9mm Graphgear pencil. They are both great! I ordered an Amana countersink bit about an hour before I watched this video. I have been wanting one for a while.
I learned drafting many years ago before computer aided design. You're supposed to rotate the pencil when you draw a line so the width stays consistent as you draw. Same goes for the Pica.
You are absolutely correct but I also agree with old mate about the 0.5mm mechanical pencil for workshop use. I use a variant of the Pica pencil at work (on site carpenter) but I still prefer my super fine lead mechanical pencil for the dainty little projects I work on at home.
Yes, have an AA in Architecture and Construction Tech. Cad wasn't being taught around here then. I never used it except for myself. I became a medic the law enforcement.
My preferred tape measure is from Lee Valley Tools. It's called the Blindman's Tape. I prefer the right to left version to use on my table saw, router, bandsaw, miter saw, drill press. You get the idea. I'm not a contractor just a DIY guy so this 12 foot tape is the perfect size. This tape is 1 inch wide so it's better that the Stanley that's only 1/2 an inch wide and you can only get in left to right. I've tried some of the Fastcap tapes and for me they just don't hold up to use. Thanks for all the info in this video. I've wondered about the PICA pencil and you confirmed what I assumed. I use .5 lead but just some cheep mechanicals, I think I'll try the fancy Pentel you use. People who think the size of the mark doesn't matter usually aren't making furniture or boxes or other DIY projects that need this kind of precision. A contractor's margin of error is a lot larger than a cabinet maker's. For the future, how about a comparison between the igaging set up blocks and something like the Kreg set up bars? Thanks for your suggestions.
Screw driver magnetizer: the de- magnetizer is for small screwdrivers, I use it before working on automatic watches . The trick is to undoo it while you work and sometimes magnetize the screwdriver just long enough to not drop your loose screw into moving parts.
Magnets from mechanical hard drives are the best. The reason you were unable to demagnetize your screwdriver was technique. To demagnetize, connect the screwdriver to the magnet and move it around a little VERY slowly. Then, move the screwdriver away VERY slowly. Any sudden movement will cause the screwdriver to retain magnetism. To magnetize, move the screwdriver around a little on the magnet, and then SNATCH it away. That’s all it takes. Just use a hard drive magnet. You don’t need to buy the tool.
Bought one of those pencils straight after watching the video! I have one where the tip retracts but so does the lead so you have to push it out each time. This looks great. Thank you.
I’ve been subscribed to your channel for a while now. I enjoy your wit and delivery. I’ve started going back through your old stuff and stumbled across this video. I know the demo with the Kreg hinge jig was to emphasize the Vix bits, but are you aware of the two screw pilot holes that are under the cage when you remove it from the base? Just have a second drill set up with a 1/16” bit set to appropriate depth and you don’t have to worry about lining up your hinge out of square. If you knew this great, but if any of your followers didn’t know this then great also. 😊
Igaging also makes a 4" and 6" double square set (just under 40 bucks) that's really nice. Overall, their setup/layout tools are super good value! I also revently grabbed a set of Uncle Bill's splinter tweezers. Game changer.
Harbor freight has a set of counter sink drill bits and I love them.. cheap and work great! If you don’t like the bit it comes with you can change it out. And can adjust the depth of bit also.
I discovered a use today for demagnetization. When you drill into metal; you often get metal ‘sawdust’ that sticks to the drill bit. Would have loved to have been able to demagnetize the bit today to drop those off.
@@MWAWoodworks No, it wasn’t. But the drill bit had a hex end which I put into my Festool centrotec chuck, which is magnetized. So maybe the chuck imparted a charge to the bit.
I use the Graphgear pencils and have one gripe about them. I wear an apron and store the pencil in the chest pocket. When I grab it and depress the plunger to project the writing tip it also advances the lead which was where I wanted it when I stored it. Aggravating!
For a pencil: Eberhard Faber #2. Period. Best tape measure (for me): Stanley Classic 25'. Hands down most practical. Been using the Vix Bits for 40 years and wouldn't be without.
FWIW, a 'flat 1.8 mm x 0.9mm exam mechanical pencil' [good search term] is a *GREAT* sub for a standard mechanical pencil, as the rectangular lead gives it a lot more strength, and can be easily kept to a sharp wedge with just a bit of sandpaper stuck to the edge of your workbench. They are also cheap as chips and available everywhere.
Those Pica (lead holders) and even mechanical pencils work better if you slowly rotate the pencil as you mark your line. So instead of wearing a flat tip in one spot as you make your mark, it sharpens itself while you draw your lines if you rotate it while drawing. Learned that in drafting class back in high school (a long time ago…).
@@MWAWoodworks Even if you rotate the Pica pencil, the point will still widen as it dulls. Rotating the Pentel will allow the lead to wear evenly and not create a 'point' on one side of the lead as you write/draw with it. I was taught this in mechanical drawing in high school (c/o '86).
Always a good day when you upload. I’ve said it before but I stand by it. Your quality and skill is right there with bourbon moth, Jay Bates and TWW and I’m sure one day you’ll have that type of following.
I have to agree with you on the Pica, I saw a RUclips clip where they guy called it a workshop essential, I bought one and my experience was the same as yours/ It dulls quickly and even sharpening the thing is a chore. I went back to my mechanical pencil.
Matt, Another great and informative video. I built my miter station from your video. I noticed in this video that you built a miter saw hood. Would be interested to see an update video to your miter saw station showing the build and functionality of the miter saw hood and also the shop towel holder.
Hypermarket in Quito, Ecuador has a couple of 6 meter tapes for under $2 that seem to work fine. Since people everywhere seem to think borrowing a tape measures ok, these are perfect. They also sell a magnetized ash tray/screw collector that magnetizes screwdrivers easily
I got my magnetizer at Wal-Mart for about $5. One on the bench and one in my carry bag. Magnetism fades with time and use, so having one in my bag to refresh my drivers is a good thing.
Try the Crescent “Nites Eyes” 8’ tape measure & you’ll never go back. The 8’ tape is the perfect size for furniture making & fits easily in your apron pocket. If you need a longer tape, they also make a 16’ version. Both are very tough & keep you from hauling around more tape than you need. The “Nite Eyes” feature was a game-changer for me.
@@MWAWoodworks I like the “Night Eye” feature since the marks are easy to read, probably since it offers a bold color contrast with most species of wood. I never benefit from (or use) the glow in the dark feature. It’s the large numbers, compact size (8’) & contrasting color between the tape & stock that have made this measure a game-changer for me.
I love your videos this one is no exception. I definitely think this should become a regular video segment. A tool I use in my shop all the time is the dewalt 20v router
Couple comments, I liked the video so much I subscribed. I've been using a Fastcap tape for years but now I'm trying to find a good one for a person with limited vision, any ideas? I also have the thread checker like yours and it has come in handy so many times. I highly recommend it! That set of set-up blocks is the best I've found and I've been woodworking since 1974. I would like to see more like this from you.
Re: pencils; a technique I learned in drafting class is to always roll the pencil when making a line. This wears the lead evenly, keeping your line a more consistent thickness and keeping the lead sharp.
Really good vid. One of the best ones I’ve seen for actually useful items. Re the Pica segment…now that’s swimming upstream. Good ole #2 pencil for me. The lil time I spend sharpening slows me down a bit which isn’t always a bad thing. Thank you for sharing.
I have a telescopic magnet with a small built in LED light. It's great for when you drop screws into small places to retrieve them or like I do quite often I drop screws or metal parts into the pile of sawdust under my lathe
The handiest set up tools I have are Lee Valley Veritas 1 1/2 inch pocket layout square and Imperial layout block. Both have very common fractions built right into the depth, width etc of each of these consisting of 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", the block has a 1", and layout square a 1 1/2" offset. It makes layout and setup so easy. I leave them either in an apron pocket or more often right on top of the table saw fence. Yes, they are tiny. But want to set up your tablesaw blade to 45 degrees? It's perfect as it fits under the teeth. And the best part? You can get both at just under $20 currently.
I use a pica pencil and I absolutely love it. However, I do construction and finish carpentry on the field more than my shop. The holster is fantastic because I never loose my pencil anymore or have to go digging in my pocket for it. There are leds for it available in various colors too for marking different materials. There is at least one other brand I’ve seen that has the pencil sharpener in the side of the holster which is more convenient.
I live in the UK and we use metric and imperial, choosing the one most suited to the job in hand. It's very hard to get hold of a tape measure over here that has one system marked on both sides and definitely not got them written upside down as we don't need it - we went to school and received an education allowing us to read numbers from all angles.
My favorite ratcheting screwdriver is the Kobalt 13-Piece Plastic Handle Magnetic Ratcheting Assorted Multi-bit Screwdriver Set, Model 15000. Includes 12 bits including straight, Philips, torx, and hex. The best part is that it has a collar grip that if you hold it will turn the bit at double rotation. You can also hold the handle stationary and turn the collar to rotate the bit, giving more stability like trying to start a screw without a pilot hole.
I’ve been using pentel twist erase mechanical pencils for mor than 10 years. It has a rubberized grip, it clicks and stores several extra leads, and has a long vinyl erasure that cranks out of the back end. They come into various lead sizes (I prefer .9mm HB). Also, get a pentel polymer erasure for cleanly removing marks on wood- or when quickly drawing up plans, they are amazing.
The finer graduations on a tape (like 1/32") gives you better PRECISION. The ACCURACY is a function of the tape manufacture and printing, and possibly the current temperature. Picking nits, yes - but calibration of measuring instruments was part of my professional life for a long time.
I never upgraded to the narking knife, but buying a huge pack of cheap .5 mm mechanical pencils and leaving them EVERYWHERE has worked for me. If I had just one nice pencil or marking knife, I'd never be able to locate it when I need it.
Have you ever used golf pencils? The kind that have a little bit of lead in a plastic holder. Got a box of them free and have them all over the workshop.
I have a Penta but honestly any cheap mechanical pencil with a fine lead will work. I actually reach for the cheap Walmart disposable mech pencil on my bench more often. The Vix self-centering drill bits are essential, IMO.
@@dereklong801 Yeah, you can always make a cheaper tool work with effort. Or just buy a better one, they're not that expensive. I usually use a marking knife anyway and 0.9mm for writing.
All you have to do to magnetize something like a screwdriver is rub the tip with a magnet. No idea how you would reverse it (or why you'd want to). lol I love the Amana countersink but one drawback I've found is the rotating wheel sometimes gets in the way because of it's size ... especially when you've got things clamped up. Then I need to drag out the old school countersinks. My go-to tape measure is a small, yellow 10-footer from (I think) Stanley. Very pocketable without being bulky and completely accurate.
I’ve a small but powerful magnet that I ripped from an old key holder. Put it on your screwdriver and it’s instantly magnetizes, pull it of and it’s demagnetized. It’s held on to my ratchet screwdriver over 10 years.
I used the stanley powerlocks for years, as a go to period, now I use Komelon selflock, having the button pull the tape {after use} is way more functional, {once you adjust to it}. no contest.
PICA makes a 0.5" version also. I have both. I use the 0.5" one all the time for working in the shop. The fatter lead one is used for basic framing where the fat line doesn't matter as much.
That is my favorite mechanical pencil for woodworking. My only gripe is that the part that connects the 2 half’s is plastic and if you’re rough with them like I am, it will break and render it useless. Currently on my third one 😅
For sure! The Pica is a good overall carpenters pencil for around the shop. It's just if I had to chose one for every need I would go with the Graph Gear because it can do really fine work too and its cheaper than the Pica. BUT I have two Picas and use them for certain tasks like rough layout and making notes on my work.
Getting a consistent line out of a pencil (any pencil) is as simple as rolling the pencil in your hand as you make the line - that’s the second skill taught in any traditional drafting class. The first skill is how to stretch paper and hold it in place with four pieces of masking tape. I own two of the pica pencils - they offer leads that can mark on wet wood and other materials that regular graphite leads do not. It’s the versatility of the lead types they offer and not the mechanical action of the pencil that makes them so useful. They are probably not needed in a cabinet shop where the wood is surfaced and dry. Simple wooden pencils can be purchased in bulk complete with spare erasers and a sharpener at Costco during back to school season. In the right hands that kit is far cheaper and more versatile than a collection of mechanical pencils. I keep a kit in my truck and shop - I never run out of pencils before the next back to school season. The trick with all pencils is not to drop them.
Question about the Amana countersink bit: I noticed there's more than one model to choose of this. Does that mean it only takes one size drill bit, or can any drill bit be used in it? How do I know which model to get? Thanks. Love your videos!
✅ HOW TO SUPPORT MY CHANNEL
SUBSCRIBE : ruclips.net/user/mwawoodworks
JOIN my Patreon community: patreon.com/MWAWoodworks
GET project plans: bit.ly/download-project-plans
✅ TOOLS AND SUPPLIES IN THIS VIDEO:
Amana Countersink Bit - amzn.to/3VCZUib
Pica Dry Mechanical Pencil - amzn.to/3VfMwAJ
Pentel Graph Gear 1000 - amzn.to/3gDM5Bf
FastCap Track Racks - tsoproducts.com/organization-storage/fastcap-track-rack/?ref=MWAWW
Magenetizer/Demagnetizer - amzn.to/3gGcK04
Thread Checker (metric/inch) - amzn.to/3gNlMID
FastCap Lefty/Rigty (Inch) tape measure - amzn.to/3VvuIln
FastCap Lefty/Righty (Metric) tape measure - amzn.to/3UnZbjW
FastCap 12’ (Metric/Inch) tape measure - amzn.to/3ASi33m
FastCap Flatback 12’ (Metric/Inch) tape measure - amzn.to/3EOOroC
Vix Bit Self Centering Drill Bit Set - amzn.to/3XD6o2j
1-2-3 Blocks - amzn.to/3UfYn08
iGaging Set Up Blocks (set) - amzn.to/3F9LcJW
Stanley 12’ Tape measure - amzn.to/3uenR3n
FastCap Quad Edge Banding Trimmer - amzn.to/3gLgUnw
Wera Ratcheting Screwdriver - amzn.to/3u8BwJt
*As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
My sister recently got me a machinist ruler for my birthday. Its a solid metal ruler but the measurements start exactly at the end of the ruler, without the little gap. Its helped me become much more accurate in my measurements and for keeping things square!
Yeah machinist squares are good for several things in a shop. I have a small 4 inch one that I use all the time
@@MWAWoodworks I think he is taking about the ruler - I have a set that starts from the edge and they are great.
Ah yeah I can't read so good 🤣
I really appreciate your honesty in this video. Too many folks just peddle the tools they didn't use or don't say anything negative.
I try to do my best to show what I like and don't really like!
Honestly I was thinking FastCap paid for the video.
@@terrynunya7444If they worth recommending, who cares. Thats the sharp point...
If you took a pencil-on-paper drafting class, you learned to spin the pencil to keep a fine, consistent line. You are effectively sharpening the lead as you’re drawing.
Indeed and its still a habit
If you stayed in that class for longer than seven minutes you would also know that you still have to advance your lead, or if using a wooden pencil, SHARPEN IT to keep the lead exposed from the wood.
I remember those days, lol. 2H pencils, that pale green paper, the T square...Damn, I'm old, LOL!
Or you can up your game and buy a drafting mechanical pencil, like the Kuru Toga, that has this functionality built in.
Or, you can join the rest of society and not need to spin your pencil while you use it so that you can actually use it.
I find a silicone pastry mat super useful for a glue station. Once the glue has dried, it pops right off
Wax paper is cheaper.
Same thing I use
@@bingmattson8685 not in the long run, pay $5 once or pay $2 every couple months
Yep, I used wax paper for a long time, but the glue still sticks to it and if you have a glue line over it you get wax paper stuck to the glue line and have scrape or sand it off and that wastes a lot of time compared to using the silicone mat that the glue just won't stick to at all.
De-magnatizer comes in handy for drills or bits that start to accumulate metal shavings
Haha my first thought when I heard that was he's definitely a woodworker and must not work with metal often. Tiny metal shavings get stuck to everything quick.
I guess nobody has had drafting training like us old guys had. When you drag your pencil across the paper (or wood) you turn it so that it takes a bit of lead off all around leaving a sharp point just like the one you started with. Can't do that with a carpenter pencil, but carpenters seemingly don't pay any attention to the lines anyway. Any pencil will last longer if you use it properly.
Yep, I started out as a drafter, before cad. Who knows what I spent on my mechanical pencils, a lot. I got these pencils after stumpy nubs introducing them. They are by far the best I've used. If people are still breaking lead, they sell them in all different sizes. I like .7 mm. The most. But I bought all the sizes. They are very reasonably priced.
Or you buy a Kura toga machine pencil from Japan and just let it do it for you
Thanks that’s never occurred to me.
@@dougprentice1363😊
Yep , just Learn to us a pencil. This is a lost art , it really works !
This might be the first one of these videos where I actually want every item!
You de magnetize when working on electronics.
Agreed! However I wouldn't be using a #2 philips head screwdriver on my electronics. I have a whole other set of much smaller specialized tools for working on computers/circuit boards which I would never magnetize to begin with so there would be no need to demagnetize them.
@@MWAWoodworks I get it I have tools for wood working different tools for electronics and different again for automotive work. Was just answering your statement for some who might not know why a de magnetizer lol be safe.
The Amana countersink tool, Pentel Graph Gear pencils and the Fastcap tape measures are all great tools. Thanks for showing them off.
😂 Everyone needs more than 50 tape measures. Love your channel.
Amazon must love you, I just ordered half the stuff you are talking about. Great video Thanks
Me thinks it's the other way around...
Tape measure with a built-in tape measure... Genius!
🙌
I love the track rack. I have one piece of advice for you is to turn them opposite from the way they are in this video. From experience my silicone track moved where it rested on the track rack. Put the silicone facing upwards where the weight rests on the aluminum instead of the silicone. Keep the great videos coming.
I have done the same thing. Let the weight rest on the aluminum instead of the silicone
Protect the silicone. Nothing worse than to come out to the shop, and when you pull out your tracks to watch the zero clearance strip snake onto the floor.
I wonder if the weight of the tracks on the garage door will affect the door operation? I know the spring is calibrated to the weight of the door and tracks are not light.
Cut to the line! It’s thickness doesn’t matter
Love your video! I have some of the tools and accessories you showed, and want some of the rest. I too have 1-2-3 blocks and never use them. Maybe I’ll try using them for stop blocks. Or paper weights. I second the comment about the usefulness of a digital caliper. Thanks!
I would add a digital caliper to your very informative list. You can get a good one for less than $10. They have a large digital screen, measure inside and outside diameter and depth. I appreciate the ability to convert inch and millimeter just by pressing a button. The measurement range is from 0-to 6". Calipers in the under $20 can even give you fractions, which allows you convert from inches to fractions to millimeters at the press of a button. I prefer the plastic/carbon fabric ones as they are non-conductive, inexpensive and very durable. For woodworking and home use they are extremely accurate.
Yes! In fact I actually did a previous tool video which included my digital calipers 😃
The best thing about the FastCap tapes is that they're all very, very consistent from one to another. They are dead-on precise. I always had trouble finding that in other brands and mixing brands. They make "self-stick" versions for table saw and miter saw fences and they even a tape measure with a blank side that you can write on with a pencil so you can use it like a story stick too.
I have both the Pica and Pentel pencils, both have their place. The pica works best for initial rough layout and it has multiple lead colors for dark woods . And I deify you to break it on rough lumber.
The pentel is suited better for fine layout lines for precision work on smooth lumber.
I agree pica is perfect for carpentry and rough layout. I have one that I put white lead in so I can mark on walnut.
The forth be with you.
they have a pica fine dry now 0.9mm
Dad used a lead holder and a special “sharpener” that was a grinder that you placed the fixed lead point of the holder in and spun to sharpen. The lead was more durable than the typical HB leads in most mechanical pencils, so needed sharpened less often, and left a crisp, yet lighter, line.
One year later and still helpful! Straight to Amazon for the Flatback tape measure :)
I have gone metric. I have 25x50x75 blocks. I use them often, but generally in conjunction with my I-gauging metric setup block set. I also purchased the fastcap metric tape measures (regular and flatback), largely because that is the only metric brand I could find in the US. I also use calipers often in the wood shop.
As a life long metric user, seeing an imperial tape measure up close is daunting.
Hope you're well and having fun sliding the decimal place around for unit conversions.
Great, keep this frequent. I learned two things today. You are a trusted mentor. Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words!
I have searched for years for a left handed tape. Thx u. I can’t wait to get one
I bought one from Lee Valley in 1975
I use the 1-2-3 block in conjunction with a fence clamp for a use-anywhere stop block. It works on my drill press fence, router fence, table saw fence, etc. since you can rotate it to the optimal height for the particular fence. The pair works great when doing repeatable cuts with my miter gauge on my table saw since I can set my fence to 1 inch more than what I want the cut piece to be, then register the end of the board to the 1-2-3 block
.
Nice yeah I think a stop block is a great use for them!
I have a .5mm and a .9mm Graphgear pencil. They are both great!
I ordered an Amana countersink bit about an hour before I watched this video. I have been wanting one for a while.
It's a great drill bit!
I second the graph gear. I have the Pica Dry, but reach for the Pentel constantly as the lead is always nice and crisp.
I use the Pica with a harder lead. Works great and doesn't dull.
I have some hard lead now. Oh wait 🤦
One the best tool videos I've ever seen! Thanks!
Wow, thanks!
This might be the best youtube video of all time. Thank you so much.
Fantastic tips, Matt! Thanks! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks 👍
Brother, you gotta get a Komelon Self Lock tape measure. They come in all lengths. My favorite for years and very inexpensive. Great video thanks!
I have one now! It's in my truck. I love that thing!
Just what the doctor ordered. Thanks for posting, !!
I learned drafting many years ago before computer aided design. You're supposed to rotate the pencil when you draw a line so the width stays consistent as you draw. Same goes for the Pica.
You are absolutely correct but I also agree with old mate about the 0.5mm mechanical pencil for workshop use. I use a variant of the Pica pencil at work (on site carpenter) but I still prefer my super fine lead mechanical pencil for the dainty little projects I work on at home.
I was a draftsman also in the 60s and 70s. We call the folks who dont know to properly use a pencil. “Wood butchers”
Yes, have an AA in Architecture and Construction Tech. Cad wasn't being taught around here then. I never used it except for myself. I became a medic the law enforcement.
My preferred tape measure is from Lee Valley Tools. It's called the Blindman's Tape. I prefer the right to left version to use on my table saw, router, bandsaw, miter saw, drill press. You get the idea. I'm not a contractor just a DIY guy so this 12 foot tape is the perfect size. This tape is 1 inch wide so it's better that the Stanley that's only 1/2 an inch wide and you can only get in left to right. I've tried some of the Fastcap tapes and for me they just don't hold up to use. Thanks for all the info in this video. I've wondered about the PICA pencil and you confirmed what I assumed. I use .5 lead but just some cheep mechanicals, I think I'll try the fancy Pentel you use. People who think the size of the mark doesn't matter usually aren't making furniture or boxes or other DIY projects that need this kind of precision. A contractor's margin of error is a lot larger than a cabinet maker's. For the future, how about a comparison between the igaging set up blocks and something like the Kreg set up bars? Thanks for your suggestions.
Screw driver magnetizer: the de- magnetizer is for small screwdrivers, I use it before working on automatic watches . The trick is to undoo it while you work and sometimes magnetize the screwdriver just long enough to not drop your loose screw into moving parts.
I use a magnet out of an old computer hard drive to magnetize my tools. Works very well. Those HDD magnets are very strong.
Oh wow I think I about 100 old hard drives I just found a use for 😂
Magnets from mechanical hard drives are the best. The reason you were unable to demagnetize your screwdriver was technique. To demagnetize, connect the screwdriver to the magnet and move it around a little VERY slowly. Then, move the screwdriver away VERY slowly. Any sudden movement will cause the screwdriver to retain magnetism. To magnetize, move the screwdriver around a little on the magnet, and then SNATCH it away. That’s all it takes. Just use a hard drive magnet. You don’t need to buy the tool.
Bought one of those pencils straight after watching the video! I have one where the tip retracts but so does the lead so you have to push it out each time. This looks great. Thank you.
Tool and die maker, I’ve used the 1,2,3 blocks for years. Like this video
Yeah that's the wheelhouse of that tool for sure!
I’ve been subscribed to your channel for a while now. I enjoy your wit and delivery. I’ve started going back through your old stuff and stumbled across this video. I know the demo with the Kreg hinge jig was to emphasize the Vix bits, but are you aware of the two screw pilot holes that are under the cage when you remove it from the base? Just have a second drill set up with a 1/16” bit set to appropriate depth and you don’t have to worry about lining up your hinge out of square. If you knew this great, but if any of your followers didn’t know this then great also. 😊
Yep that's true. Thanks for pointinging that out.
Igaging also makes a 4" and 6" double square set (just under 40 bucks) that's really nice. Overall, their setup/layout tools are super good value! I also revently grabbed a set of Uncle Bill's splinter tweezers. Game changer.
The 6" double square is used almost every time I do anything in the shop. Need to get a 4" one.
Nice to see you master the fourth.
Harbor freight has a set of counter sink drill bits and I love them.. cheap and work great! If you don’t like the bit it comes with you can change it out. And can adjust the depth of bit also.
I discovered a use today for demagnetization. When you drill into metal; you often get metal ‘sawdust’ that sticks to the drill bit. Would have loved to have been able to demagnetize the bit today to drop those off.
Was the bit magnetized to begin with?
@@MWAWoodworks No, it wasn’t. But the drill bit had a hex end which I put into my Festool centrotec chuck, which is magnetized. So maybe the chuck imparted a charge to the bit.
I use the Graphgear pencils and have one gripe about them. I wear an apron and store the pencil in the chest pocket. When I grab it and depress the plunger to project the writing tip it also advances the lead which was where I wanted it when I stored it. Aggravating!
This is one of the best Xmas lists I’ve seen this year!
Ha wow! Thanks! 😁
For a pencil: Eberhard Faber #2. Period. Best tape measure (for me): Stanley Classic 25'. Hands down most practical. Been using the Vix Bits for 40 years and wouldn't be without.
FWIW, a 'flat 1.8 mm x 0.9mm exam mechanical pencil' [good search term] is a *GREAT* sub for a standard mechanical pencil, as the rectangular lead gives it a lot more strength, and can be easily kept to a sharp wedge with just a bit of sandpaper stuck to the edge of your workbench. They are also cheap as chips and available everywhere.
Thanks for the honesty. All too often products are pushed without all the facts
Those Pica (lead holders) and even mechanical pencils work better if you slowly rotate the pencil as you mark your line. So instead of wearing a flat tip in one spot as you make your mark, it sharpens itself while you draw your lines if you rotate it while drawing. Learned that in drafting class back in high school (a long time ago…).
I don't know if I'm coordinated enough for that 😆🤣
@@MWAWoodworks Even if you rotate the Pica pencil, the point will still widen as it dulls. Rotating the Pentel will allow the lead to wear evenly and not create a 'point' on one side of the lead as you write/draw with it. I was taught this in mechanical drawing in high school (c/o '86).
That’s an old drafting trick we were taught with those original mechanical pencils they had in the 70’s
@@woodandwheelz you all should look at the Uni Kuru Toga, everytime you put down the lead it rotates, problem solved
Always a good day when you upload. I’ve said it before but I stand by it. Your quality and skill is right there with bourbon moth, Jay Bates and TWW and I’m sure one day you’ll have that type of following.
Thanks for the kind words and high praise!
I have to agree with you on the Pica, I saw a RUclips clip where they guy called it a workshop essential, I bought one and my experience was the same as yours/ It dulls quickly and even sharpening the thing is a chore. I went back to my mechanical pencil.
Matt, Another great and informative video. I built my miter station from your video. I noticed in this video that you built a miter saw hood. Would be interested to see an update video to your miter saw station showing the build and functionality of the miter saw hood and also the shop towel holder.
Thanks Steven! I'll be sure to include those updates in my next shop tour video. So many new things in the shop this year!
Vix bits are an absolute necessity!
Hypermarket in Quito, Ecuador has a couple of 6 meter tapes for under $2 that seem to work fine. Since people everywhere seem to think borrowing a tape measures ok, these are perfect. They also sell a magnetized ash tray/screw collector that magnetizes screwdrivers easily
I got my magnetizer at Wal-Mart for about $5. One on the bench and one in my carry bag. Magnetism fades with time and use, so having one in my bag to refresh my drivers is a good thing.
Glad the algorithm found you. Great video. Thanks.
Try the Crescent “Nites Eyes” 8’ tape measure & you’ll never go back. The 8’ tape is the perfect size for furniture making & fits easily in your apron pocket. If you need a longer tape, they also make a 16’ version. Both are very tough & keep you from hauling around more tape than you need. The “Nite Eyes” feature was a game-changer for me.
I have the 25' Nite Eye and its nice. Not sure I'd ever need glow in the dark in my shop, but it's great for outdoor projects.
@@MWAWoodworks I like the “Night Eye” feature since the marks are easy to read, probably since it offers a bold color contrast with most species of wood. I never benefit from (or use) the glow in the dark feature. It’s the large numbers, compact size (8’) & contrasting color between the tape & stock that have made this measure a game-changer for me.
I use the 123 blocks as an offset for my table saw fence when using the miter gauge. It's a perfect 1" offset, so very easy to set the fence.
Yep
I love your videos this one is no exception. I definitely think this should become a regular video segment. A tool I use in my shop all the time is the dewalt 20v router
And Ive got that router 😁
Nice work! I probably won't buy those exact items, but you did get me thinking. Thanks!
Couple comments,
I liked the video so much I subscribed.
I've been using a Fastcap tape for years but now I'm trying to find a good one for a person with limited vision, any ideas?
I also have the thread checker like yours and it has come in handy so many times. I highly recommend it!
That set of set-up blocks is the best I've found and I've been woodworking since 1974.
I would like to see more like this from you.
Search for “ blind man’s tape” I dont remember who makes them
Re: pencils; a technique I learned in drafting class is to always roll the pencil when making a line. This wears the lead evenly, keeping your line a more consistent thickness and keeping the lead sharp.
Really good vid. One of the best ones I’ve seen for actually useful items. Re the Pica segment…now that’s swimming upstream. Good ole #2 pencil for me. The lil time I spend sharpening slows me down a bit which isn’t always a bad thing. Thank you for sharing.
I still keep good quality cedar pencils lying around. Never know when you'll need one.
I have a telescopic magnet with a small built in LED light. It's great for when you drop screws into small places to retrieve them or like I do quite often I drop screws or metal parts into the pile of sawdust under my lathe
Ooohhhh I need to check that out! I just put a magnet on a dowel rod and hope for the best 🤣
Same here!
The handiest set up tools I have are Lee Valley Veritas 1 1/2 inch pocket layout square and Imperial layout block. Both have very common fractions built right into the depth, width etc of each of these consisting of 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", the block has a 1", and layout square a 1 1/2" offset. It makes layout and setup so easy. I leave them either in an apron pocket or more often right on top of the table saw fence. Yes, they are tiny. But want to set up your tablesaw blade to 45 degrees? It's perfect as it fits under the teeth. And the best part? You can get both at just under $20 currently.
I use a pica pencil and I absolutely love it. However, I do construction and finish carpentry on the field more than my shop. The holster is fantastic because I never loose my pencil anymore or have to go digging in my pocket for it. There are leds for it available in various colors too for marking different materials. There is at least one other brand I’ve seen that has the pencil sharpener in the side of the holster which is more convenient.
I live in the UK and we use metric and imperial, choosing the one most suited to the job in hand. It's very hard to get hold of a tape measure over here that has one system marked on both sides and definitely not got them written upside down as we don't need it - we went to school and received an education allowing us to read numbers from all angles.
Good for you! 😀
Thanks a lot!!!! Now my Amazon wish list just got bigger - and I didn’t know that was possible! 🤣🤣. Great video, I really enjoyed.
I love my Pentel Graphgear as well. I use my Pica with white lead for marking rough lines on darker woods
I do the same thing. My Pica is used for rough layout on walnut boards.
Cool stuff, the track storage looks interesting.Though you're limited to working with the door closed when fastened to the door.
My favorite ratcheting screwdriver is the Kobalt 13-Piece Plastic Handle Magnetic Ratcheting Assorted Multi-bit Screwdriver Set, Model 15000. Includes 12 bits including straight, Philips, torx, and hex. The best part is that it has a collar grip that if you hold it will turn the bit at double rotation. You can also hold the handle stationary and turn the collar to rotate the bit, giving more stability like trying to start a screw without a pilot hole.
I carry the graph gear 1000 and the pica, I use the pica for writing notes, marketing sides, etc. and the 0.5mm for marking measurements.
Definitely like this format. Keep on doing it. Already ordered from your recommendation.
Just ordered left/right FastCaps in std and metric. High contrast good for my old eyes. Reverse good for my old brain.
I’ve been using pentel twist erase mechanical pencils for mor than 10 years. It has a rubberized grip, it clicks and stores several extra leads, and has a long vinyl erasure that cranks out of the back end. They come into various lead sizes (I prefer .9mm HB). Also, get a pentel polymer erasure for cleanly removing marks on wood- or when quickly drawing up plans, they are amazing.
The finer graduations on a tape (like 1/32") gives you better PRECISION. The ACCURACY is a function of the tape manufacture and printing, and possibly the current temperature. Picking nits, yes - but calibration of measuring instruments was part of my professional life for a long time.
Hahaha thanks for setting me straight 😅
For mechanical pencils, the Pentel P209/207/205 are my go to.
The Pica you showed isn't designed for fine woodworking. I use them while repairing my fence and they are fantastic, never fails me.
Exactly
Wow, a very Informative video!
Thank you!
I never upgraded to the narking knife, but buying a huge pack of cheap .5 mm mechanical pencils and leaving them EVERYWHERE has worked for me. If I had just one nice pencil or marking knife, I'd never be able to locate it when I need it.
That was my strategy with tape measures 🤣
Have you ever used golf pencils? The kind that have a little bit of lead in a plastic holder. Got a box of them free and have them all over the workshop.
You sold me on the Amana countersink and Fastcap trimmer. I’m also getting the Speed Roller Pro that you used but didn’t mention.
Cool video. Loads of useful tips and humorous..
Glad you enjoyed it!
The longer you have the 1-2-3 blocks the more useful they become. They compliment the set up blocks very nicely.
Great job, Teacher kudos 👍
I have a Penta but honestly any cheap mechanical pencil with a fine lead will work. I actually reach for the cheap Walmart disposable mech pencil on my bench more often. The Vix self-centering drill bits are essential, IMO.
The cheaper pencils (in general) eject more lead with each click, with fine lead the more it sticks out the more likely to break.
@@j.f.christ8421 If too much is out, hold down the lead ejector and push some lead back in. Takes a second.
@@dereklong801 Yeah, you can always make a cheaper tool work with effort. Or just buy a better one, they're not that expensive. I usually use a marking knife anyway and 0.9mm for writing.
@@j.f.christ8421 I have both. The cheaper one is literally just as good.
My first time watching your channel. I liked it so much I subscribed. Nice job!!
Wow awesome! 😁
All you have to do to magnetize something like a screwdriver is rub the tip with a magnet. No idea how you would reverse it (or why you'd want to). lol
I love the Amana countersink but one drawback I've found is the rotating wheel sometimes gets in the way because of it's size ... especially when you've got things clamped up. Then I need to drag out the old school countersinks. My go-to tape measure is a small, yellow 10-footer from (I think) Stanley. Very pocketable without being bulky and completely accurate.
Yeah the small Stanleys are nice pocket tapes. And I agree why would you unmagnetive any tool! 🤣
I’ve a small but powerful magnet that I ripped from an old key holder. Put it on your screwdriver and it’s instantly magnetizes, pull it of and it’s demagnetized. It’s held on to my ratchet screwdriver over 10 years.
I used the stanley powerlocks for years, as a go to period, now I use Komelon selflock, having the button pull the tape {after use} is way more functional, {once you adjust to it}. no contest.
I'm going to try one of those.
I've used a tailor's tape before for measuring round things. It's cloth so no problem bending it.
I just got the thread checker. Love it and it can be an industrial necklace for woodworking geeks 😂
Great idea!!
PICA makes a 0.5" version also. I have both. I use the 0.5" one all the time for working in the shop. The fatter lead one is used for basic framing where the fat line doesn't matter as much.
That is my favorite mechanical pencil for woodworking. My only gripe is that the part that connects the 2 half’s is plastic and if you’re rough with them like I am, it will break and render it useless. Currently on my third one 😅
If you'rre looking or a pocket tape measure, Stanley makes a 10 footer that is 2" x 2" x 1/2".
I'm done buying tape measures, I have a problem..... that's a lie, I'm looking at the 10 footer now 🤣🤣🤣
Heads up they have the Penel in 0.7 (Pentel Graph Gear 1000 Automatic Drafting Pencil, 0.7mm Lead Size, Blue Barrel, 1 Each (PG1017C)) , great video
Yeah I have a couple of those as well!
Interesting information better for beginners like me.
Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Obv. pencils can be used for more than marking lines tho. Jointer and sanding scribbles, labelling pieces, etc benefit from sturdy lead.
For sure! The Pica is a good overall carpenters pencil for around the shop. It's just if I had to chose one for every need I would go with the Graph Gear because it can do really fine work too and its cheaper than the Pica. BUT I have two Picas and use them for certain tasks like rough layout and making notes on my work.
Getting a consistent line out of a pencil (any pencil) is as simple as rolling the pencil in your hand as you make the line - that’s the second skill taught in any traditional drafting class. The first skill is how to stretch paper and hold it in place with four pieces of masking tape.
I own two of the pica pencils - they offer leads that can mark on wet wood and other materials that regular graphite leads do not. It’s the versatility of the lead types they offer and not the mechanical action of the pencil that makes them so useful. They are probably not needed in a cabinet shop where the wood is surfaced and dry.
Simple wooden pencils can be purchased in bulk complete with spare erasers and a sharpener at Costco during back to school season. In the right hands that kit is far cheaper and more versatile than a collection of mechanical pencils. I keep a kit in my truck and shop - I never run out of pencils before the next back to school season. The trick with all pencils is not to drop them.
I love the white lead for the Pica. Great for marking up walnut before cutting it to rough parts.
Critter paint spray gun. It's cheap if you already have a compressor. Easy to clean and puts down a nice finish with either paint or poly.
Question about the Amana countersink bit: I noticed there's more than one model to choose of this. Does that mean it only takes one size drill bit, or can any drill bit be used in it? How do I know which model to get? Thanks. Love your videos!