I've lived in my current home for 35 years. It's was neglected when I purchased chased it. At the beginning of year 2 I started on doors and windows. I scraped or torched off all of the latex paint. I then gave the frames 2 coats of boiled Linseed oil. The third coat was a "primer" of 1 part oil paint and 3 parts Linseed oil. The final coats were oil paint and two coatings of it. It took 3 years to make it all the way around the house. NOW over 30 years later the paint is starting to deteriorate. Now in my mid 70's I get to start over again.....but it will be worth it because I won't have to do it again.
@tomprivate3362 that is incredible. How is it starting to deteriorate? I have yet to meet someone who says their linseed oil paint has deteriorated. Presumably because almost everyone I know has only started using it 0 - 25 years ago.
Once it starts to go matte, just give it a wipe with some boiled linseed oil to nourish the paint (and put back what the UV light has broken down) and you won't even need to repaint!
Dad was a big fan of linseed oil as a primer and wood conditioner. The secret is you needed direct sun and 70+F temps for it to dry cure. In the shade, it takes weeks to cure. Raw wood drinks linseed oil. Painted wood is refreshed if it is able to polymerize and will take any good paint. Great results if you can afford the cure time.
Using a good application brush and finishing brush will help putting on coats nice and thin. If the paint gets applied too thickly, it can indeed take long to cure.
I started using Linseed oil paint (imported from Europe) about 10 years ago on my house exterior. He’s telling the truth about its advantages for an old wood home. Zero peeling or cracking. You do have to be mindful about mold by making sure it has a mildewcide (sp?) included.
The zinc oxide is mildewcide/fungicide. You mix it into Allbäck while Ottosson has zinc oxide pre-mixed in. Have you used something other than zinc oxide?
@@KyleKavanaugh Only the correct amount of zinc white works for this. And it needs to be milled in at source to get a full dispersion in the paint. Stirring it in will unfortunately not be sufficient.
I’m glad that someone is getting the word out about linseed oil paints. I think that these sort of paints for historic buildings in particular will continue to make a comeback. I also think that your guest is absolutely correct that finishing in linseed oil paints will result in much more durable and long, lasting wooden details and finishes.
I painted new cedar siding with Linseed paint two and a half years ago and it's doing great. It was a learning curve with longer dry times etc, but no hint of peeling or modern style paint failure - just a more flat sheen from the original satin.
My Dad was a big proponent of linseed oil, now I get why he did not care for exterior painted woods. Saved this vid to order samples and learn how to use effectively, thank you.
Great video! I knew linseed oil paint was better for wood and now I know why! Looking to install an arbour and rose arch in my garden in the spring and have been investigating linseed oil paint as an option. It's not cheap but will be worth it if it extends the life of the wood. I also like that it's not based on petrochemicals.
Up until the mid 80's, most oil based primers for wood had a lot of linseed oil in it. It was great for bare wood but in the 90's I couldn't find it anymore. As a former painter, I've always advised people not to seal wood as it needs to breathe and move with the seasons. But mot people just don't like the raw look of linseed oil paint. I had a hard time even suggesting it, they just shut you down when you show them a sample.
Wonderful. Having painted for 4 decades, products have changed radically. Labor intensive, time intensive, COSTLY. Now you have to work on the mindset of the customer who has to pay for this. Get in, get out, that is the mindset of everyone today. Also, what about clears?
@@JeepMurphy linseed oil is essentially clear…also, the great thing about linseed oil paint is that you can freshen it up by just putting a coat of linseed oil over the top
We also do a clear oil, but bear in mind that the protection against UV light comes from the (solid) powder pigments. That's what makes the paint so durable. A clear finish will need re-oiling much more frequently.
Great Video Brent. I am in Ottawa, Ontario Canada (originally from Boston) and I am very familiar with the these products and have done a lot of work on doors and windows using these products. I would love to talk to you about the work you mentioned in this video, that you're planning to do on the exterior of your shop. Great video Brent.
Going back to linseed oil paints, it will be good to check out the old period painters guides for how they used the paint and issues they had with them. The main one is the drying time, driers were available and used. Lead was also a used, so what replaces lead today and how else are contemporary linseed oil paints different from the old ones? More companies are coming out with the linseed oil paints, including one from Sweden. BTW other seed oils were used including some from fish / mammals which gave different properties.
Just don’t be reckless like Clark Griswald and take a chainsaw to a historic newel post! Lol Well done, good info, thanks for sharing as I had no idea about linseed.
Fine art uses linen/cotton canvas and paints made from oils like linseed, walnut, poppyseed depending on the type of pigment used for the colour. Oil paintings can last for hundreds of years so it just seems logical that linseed oil and other oils that cure are good for wood.
Christopher Schwarz from Lost Art Press has a section on linseed oil paint in his book American Peasant. He suggests applying a coat of soft wax or straight linseed oil after the paint dries with a 3M gray pad to buff out inconsistencies in the painted surface. According to Chris, one of the other benefits to this paint is that it ages much better than a hard finish.
Kindly provide if possible 1. Reference regarding wicking quality of linseed oil paint 2. Type of primer recommended. Seems critical. 3. Antimold treatments recommended 4. Recommended sources. Thanks
@KyleKavanaugh It's a form of tree girdling. A year or two before harvest, they cut strips of bark off the trees with a draw knife or similar. Supposedly, it makes the timber stronger and/or more rot resistant once harvested. Research is limited but does show some positive effects. There's similar folk wisdom about completely girdling trees producing better wood.
I'm going to be building historic reproduction windows (I took Steve Quillion's class) and am going to try some of this. I'm curious to see how it goes.
Also, quality black china bristle brushes were ubiquitous, now impossible to find.........quality of tooling needs to be discussed as well. What about caulks and putties?
We will be up-and-running in Canada in the next 2 months, before the start of the new paint season! With a completely dedicated Canadian website and distribution!
Linseed oil paint in the past was homegrown and unregulated and had this problem. Today what you say is largely untrue for all commercially available linseed paints. The linseed proteins (which were the main source of food for mildew) are now purified out, and anti-mildew zinc oxide is now added. Both of these things make linseed paint anti-mildew
@@KyleKavanaugh Yes and no... In contrary to common believe, the proteïns have nothing to do with it, it's all about the uncured (raw) linseed oil. A lot of manufacturers not only add zinc oxide but also bio-cides and fungicides to their paint, always check their (Material) Safety Datasheet or (M)SDS.
@@KyleKavanaugh Where I live in Connecticut (about 5 miles from the ocean, and in a mature forrest) mildew grows on aluminum gutters, vinyl siding, asphalt roofing, cedar shingles, cedar clapboards, painted trim, metal doors, etc. For years the homes that were stained with linseed oil based penetrating stains, had to be washed at least twice a year to keep the mildew in check. Thanks to the arrival of low VOC products, we have lost access to these penetrating stains. But I can assure you that in this climate, linseed oil products were breeding grounds for mildew. I have lived here for only 25 years, and have yet to find the best finish for my western red cedar, clear vertical grain clapboards. My humble house is 5000 square feet with attached 3 car garage, 35 feet up at the peak of the gable ends. So when it is time to repaint it, it takes a few minutes of work. Believe me, I will pay good money for good stain or paint, since that material cost is small compared to the labor to prepare the surface and apply the paint. My neighbors are spending $30,000 to have their homes painted by "professionals". And who knows what paint those fellas are using. Some of those $30,000 paint jobs last for 3 to 5 years and then you do it all over agin.
I’m a big fan of Rubio Monocoat they just released a very interesting product for exterior. I will check out the linseed paint RUclips channel. Thanks for always providing good content.
@@KyleKavanaugh i have no idea as i live in finland 😂but they seem to be sold here in finland also. Atleast here they are marketed for old house renovations it seems after a quick Google search
@@KyleKavanaugh The main countries historically making linseed oil paint were Germany, the Netherlands, UK and the US. Paint production in Sweden was tiny compared to these countries. Sweden kept making them after WW2, but by no means was linseed oil paint Swedish.
A lot of people keep having issues *about mold or mildew* on these type of paints. Here's some advise to avoid it. The first signs of mold are mostly small black dots... Those black dots need four things to grow and two of them are controllable: 1. *Uncured linseed oil* -> avoid the use of raw linseed oil (as primer or to dilute the paint) and *use "pre cured oil"* , that's oil that has been sitting in a glass jar and is exposed to (UV) light for about 2 to 6 months. Once and a while you open the cap to let some fresh air in. 2. *Low pH level* (rather acid environment) -> Raise the pH level of the bare wood by *giving it first a lime wash* , leave the lime (chalk) on the wood when dry and paint over it (chalk becomes transparant when oiled). 3. Moisture -> not controllable. 4. Temperature -> not controllable. I have had very good results with the lime wash on exterior pine wood (outer walls of a shed). A good source for natural linseed oil, is your local horse shop. Linseed oil is also food for horses. Always buy the one *without* any vitamins or other additives added. Some companies - like Allback - will advise you to heat the wood above 60°C / 140°F to kill all the mold spores before painting it or even to heat up your paint while applying it. That might help but it's quite cumbersome to apply on large surfaces. Most commercial companies will add "real" fungicides to their paint to avoid these molds, so always check their (Material) Safety Datasheet or (M)SDS.
Hi Koenraad, traditionally, good quality, boiled linseed oil was used, which is what we still use now. The best method to prevent mildew is to make sure to check whether the right quantity of zinc white is added when the pigment and oil if milled. You want to make sure you end up with a completely homogenous, smooth mixture (paste), which is the foundation for the paint. Preheating oil to saturate wood is some of the worst advice I've seen out there. Please DO NOT pretreat wood with heated oil! There are two major issues with this: 1) As the oil starts to cool down deep inside the timber, its volume changes, causing it to warp and crack. 2) You are relying on the paint to only adhere to the oil, rathe than getting any pigment into the wood. I have see paint delaminate with this approach.
Great video. Your guest mentions a coat of primer prior to applying the linseed oil paint. I presume that's also a linseed oil primer, not a conventional oil based primer?
Very interesting and it makes a lot of sense to let the wood breath. Can you post details on the wood prep prior to priming and painting with linseed oil paint. We all know preparation is the key to everything. Do you need to do 100% removal if possible of old paint? Will it bubble if some old latex or oil paint is left behind? Will always have some in cracks, joints etc. Thanks!
Linseed oil paint can only work as well as what it gets painted onto, so to more latex paint you can remove, the better. This will not only last longer, it will also keep wood dry over a long period of time. It can be a bit of a pain to remove all the modern paint, but it's a one-off job as you do not need to sand / scrape linseed oil paint before maintenance.
I’m curious about using linseed oil stain on my wooden deck. I just finished installing a new floor on my deck using 5/4 pressure treated decking. After the spring rain has a chance to dry, I’ll be interested in preserving my deck surface. Is linseed oil based stain a good choice?
Make sure to rest your pressure-treated decking with a sample before committing. Unfortunately, the chemicals used in pressure treatments can keep leaching out for years, affecting the working of (any) paint. We have sample pots on our website you can order so you can give it a try first.
From what I gathered, on interior surfaces, the curing time is much longer and needs UV light to speed up the process. And from what I hear, people are using linseed paint especially for wetter areas like bathrooms and kitchens. But it is a great all-natural, plastic-free paint.
Also, it is on the glossy side and matte is only available on lighter color schemes (the matte additive is white). Contacted Viking Sales in Rochester or Sage Restoration in Ontario for questions
Linseed paint will stick to exisiting (modern) finishes, but if you want the full benefits of linseed oil paint, it is best to remove exisiting (plastic) paints.
My questions are these: Does this Linseed oil based paint come in different sheens and does one only apply one coat or are two and even three coats better?
I'm not aware that it does, but after time my linseed painted siding has dulled after 2 years where it sees the most sun/ weather. Still more shiny where it doesn't though.
It has one sheen only. it starts off with a high gloss, but fairly quickly dulls to a more matte finish linseed paint is so well known for. If you want a higher sheen again when this happens, just wipe it with some boiled linseed oil.
@@BrentHull Yes, like, for example, Grolsch. I can understand keeping water out, but not something as good as Grosch. And I like those bottles with the lever to flip off the cap.
@ryansoo4000 Mr. Pincen here is correct. I believe hand painting is encouraged, however, since it penetrates deeper into the wood, if I’m not mistaken. Metal, stone, plaster… but also brick as well. Though it seems to work best on wood. I would say for exterior paint, linseed oil paint is the best, though for brick and stone I’ve heard that lime wash paint is perhaps better
We always recommend application with a natural bristle brush as that helps push the paint into the surface. Spraying, by default, lays it on the surface as a film. It is possible to spray but then make sure to brush it in before the polymerisation starts.
Whoa. Is this way to much to have to think about as a consumer? Now our paint is no longer protecting the wood, it's causing it to rot? Holy cow. Appreciate this discussion, but would be great if these issues were resolved with consensus scientific facts and data at an industry level? Gave you a thumbs up/
Discussions are occurring on this front at the scientific level. Michiel Brouns’s book is great for this. The National Park Service has also published scientific studies on linseed oil paint
@@Laguna2013my vote would be Ottosson linseed paint from Viking Sales. Allbäck has the better reputation but Ottosson is a bit more user friendly. No need to mix in the Zinc Oxide. But this is absolutely the best investment to protect your exterior wood
What about yellowing? One thing I dislike about traditional oil paint is that it yellows overtime, so your whites start to look like a smoker lived in your house for 40 years.
@@toomanymarys7355 Not true, check the oil paintings in the art world... when paintings went into storage, the whites yellowed but became white again when exposed to natural light.
A lot of the time, at least on artistic painting, its the clear protective varnish that goes yellow. Unsure if house paint would be similar. Still cool to check out art restoration videos on RUclips
Sage Restoration and Viking Sales have offer lower prices comparable to high end exterior paints. Linseed paint also covers twice as much and lasts much, much longer. Indefinitely.
@@koenraadprincen7212 No, and it is quite damp here at times. It also works fine straight onto oak and cedar for which modern paints aren't suitable. Also painted some new aluminium guttering over 5 years ago and it worked perfectly - although took several days to days to dry.
I used linseed oil paint from allback (sage restoration) when I restored our 1850s windows due to the historic accuracy. Everyone said I was crazy. It was a disaster after 9 months. Even with the zinc I could not get it to stop growing organic mildews, molds, ect. I was so disappointed.
The first signs of mold were probably small black dots... There are several options to avoid this... those black dots need four things to grow and two of them are controllable: 1. Uncured linseed oil -> avoid the use of raw linseed oil (as primer or to dilute the paint) and use "pre cured oil", that's oil that has been sitting in a glass jar and exposed to light for about 6 months. Once and a while you open the cap to let some fresh air in. 2. Low pH level (rather acid environment) -> Raise the pH level of the bare wood by giving it first a lime wash, leave the lime (chalk) on the wood when dry and paint over it (chalk becomes transparant when oiled). 3. Moisture -> not controllable. 4. Temperature -> not controllable. I have had very good results with the lime wash on exterior pine wood (outer walls of a shed). Some companies - like Allback - will advise you to heat the wood above 60°C / 140°F to kill all the mold spores before painting it or even to heat up your paint while applying it. But most commercial companies will add "real" fungicides to their paint to avoid these molds.
@@debluetailfly The manufacturer has nothing to do with it. The longer the oil remains uncured, the more chances for mold grow. That's why I avoid raw linseed oil and advise to use "pre cured oil" in the first layer (primer) or if you want to dilute the paint. Linseed oil needs UV-light (and oxygen) to cure... so paint on sunny days. When painting wood, there is no need for the paint to penetrate deep, 1/10th of an inch is more than enough. The deeper the oil penetrates to more difficult the curing process (less access to UV light and oxygen). Curing oil expands, making it more difficult for the underlaying oil to cure. But the lime wash is the most effective in my eyes.
Linseed oil now goes through an extensive purification process and mixed with anti-fungal zinc oxide additive. Ottoson and Allbäck are great manufacturers
The answer to your question, Brent - products reintroduced from the past that make structures last longer are not used because they cost twice as much. With how quickly and thoughtlessly people replace items for something "new", who wants to invest in making something last longer than they will live to enjoy it?
@@ThePolypam Watched the whole thing and listened carefully. I still have the same question about PFAS. Many paints contain PFAS. It is a valid question.
Yes, you need to be careful with the cleaning rags when these contain fresh paint, you need to dispose them in a closed metal bucket or dimple them in water.
Never leave rags soaked in linseed oil laying around; they are very prone to spontaneous combustion. But when you are using a brush and stretching the paint onto the surface, there is no problem with spontaneous combustion. Some who have worked with faux finishes use linseed oil glazes and use a lot of rags. I have known of some dumpster fires where they threw their rags. You can hang rags on a wire and let them totally dry out, and then throw them away. I have personally had a rag begin smoldering after going on a half hour lunch break. I threw it outside real quick. But again not a problem painting a house with linseed oil paint.
I've lived in my current home for 35 years. It's was neglected when I purchased chased it. At the beginning of year 2 I started on doors and windows. I scraped or torched off all of the latex paint. I then gave the frames 2 coats of boiled Linseed oil. The third coat was a "primer" of 1 part oil paint and 3 parts Linseed oil. The final coats were oil paint and two coatings of it. It took 3 years to make it all the way around the house. NOW over 30 years later the paint is starting to deteriorate. Now in my mid 70's I get to start over again.....but it will be worth it because I won't have to do it again.
@tomprivate3362 that is incredible. How is it starting to deteriorate? I have yet to meet someone who says their linseed oil paint has deteriorated. Presumably because almost everyone I know has only started using it 0 - 25 years ago.
Once it starts to go matte, just give it a wipe with some boiled linseed oil to nourish the paint (and put back what the UV light has broken down) and you won't even need to repaint!
Dad was a big fan of linseed oil as a primer and wood conditioner. The secret is you needed direct sun and 70+F temps for it to dry cure. In the shade, it takes weeks to cure. Raw wood drinks linseed oil. Painted wood is refreshed if it is able to polymerize and will take any good paint. Great results if you can afford the cure time.
Using a good application brush and finishing brush will help putting on coats nice and thin. If the paint gets applied too thickly, it can indeed take long to cure.
I started using Linseed oil paint (imported from Europe) about 10 years ago on my house exterior. He’s telling the truth about its advantages for an old wood home. Zero peeling or cracking. You do have to be mindful about mold by making sure it has a mildewcide (sp?) included.
The zinc oxide is mildewcide/fungicide. You mix it into Allbäck while Ottosson has zinc oxide pre-mixed in. Have you used something other than zinc oxide?
@@KyleKavanaugh Only the correct amount of zinc white works for this. And it needs to be milled in at source to get a full dispersion in the paint. Stirring it in will unfortunately not be sufficient.
I’m glad that someone is getting the word out about linseed oil paints. I think that these sort of paints for historic buildings in particular will continue to make a comeback. I also think that your guest is absolutely correct that finishing in linseed oil paints will result in much more durable and long, lasting wooden details and finishes.
AI wrote this.
Thanks.
@@HerbieBancock umm no…
Yeah it's a no-brainer!
I painted new cedar siding with Linseed paint two and a half years ago and it's doing great. It was a learning curve with longer dry times etc, but no hint of peeling or modern style paint failure - just a more flat sheen from the original satin.
Thanks.
Excellent!
My Dad was a big proponent of linseed oil, now I get why he did not care for exterior painted woods. Saved this vid to order samples and learn how to use effectively, thank you.
Glad it helped.
Thanks for jumping into linseed oil paint Brent! Earth & Flax has a lot of videos on linseed oil paint!
Thanks, I'll check them out!
Great video! I knew linseed oil paint was better for wood and now I know why!
Looking to install an arbour and rose arch in my garden in the spring and have been investigating linseed oil paint as an option. It's not cheap but will be worth it if it extends the life of the wood. I also like that it's not based on petrochemicals.
Me too.
Yep it's completely free from VOCs, phthalates, PSFs, microplastics, etc.
Great video Brent
Up until the mid 80's, most oil based primers for wood had a lot of linseed oil in it. It was great for bare wood but in the 90's I couldn't find it anymore. As a former painter, I've always advised people not to seal wood as it needs to breathe and move with the seasons. But mot people just don't like the raw look of linseed oil paint. I had a hard time even suggesting it, they just shut you down when you show them a sample.
Thx for sharing. From my research, a good firm like Brouns is key.
Wonderful. Having painted for 4 decades, products have changed radically. Labor intensive, time intensive, COSTLY. Now you have to work on the mindset of the customer who has to pay for this.
Get in, get out, that is the mindset of everyone today.
Also, what about clears?
Good question. I'll find out.
@@JeepMurphy linseed oil is essentially clear…also, the great thing about linseed oil paint is that you can freshen it up by just putting a coat of linseed oil over the top
We also do a clear oil, but bear in mind that the protection against UV light comes from the (solid) powder pigments. That's what makes the paint so durable. A clear finish will need re-oiling much more frequently.
Great Video Brent. I am in Ottawa, Ontario Canada (originally from Boston) and I am very familiar with the these products and have done a lot of work on doors and windows using these products. I would love to talk to you about the work you mentioned in this video, that you're planning to do on the exterior of your shop. Great video Brent.
Of course. Thx.
Outstanding video of yours as always. Thank you both so much for sharing your knowledge.
Happy New Year 🙏🎄❄️
Happy New Year to you! Thx for watching.
My pleasure - Happy New Year!
extremely informative. I really appreciate this interview.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Glad it was useful!
Going back to linseed oil paints, it will be good to check out the old period painters guides for how they used the paint and issues they had with them. The main one is the drying time, driers were available and used. Lead was also a used, so what replaces lead today and how else are contemporary linseed oil paints different from the old ones? More companies are coming out with the linseed oil paints, including one from Sweden. BTW other seed oils were used including some from fish / mammals which gave different properties.
Lead was for the base white color.
I haven't heard of paints with other oils, do you have any recommendations for where I could learn more about the differences?
@@elsa_g Every so called "drying oil" can be used: sunflower oil, safflower oil, tung oil,...
@ I see, I've heard of using tung oil before, specifically for kitchen utensils.
@@elsa_g Tung oil has better water proofing properties and it is a bit more glossy.
Just don’t be reckless like Clark Griswald and take a chainsaw to a historic newel post! Lol
Well done, good info, thanks for sharing as I had no idea about linseed.
Thanks 👍
Delighted I found this channel.
Welcome aboard.
Fine art uses linen/cotton canvas and paints made from oils like linseed, walnut, poppyseed depending on the type of pigment used for the colour. Oil paintings can last for hundreds of years so it just seems logical that linseed oil and other oils that cure are good for wood.
Nice. Thx for sharing.
Very cool, learned something new today
Glad to hear it!
Amazing! That's what it's all about!
@ hopefully you decide to expand to Canada some day! In the mean time I’ll learn enough to take advantage when you do
Christopher Schwarz from Lost Art Press has a section on linseed oil paint in his book American Peasant. He suggests applying a coat of soft wax or straight linseed oil after the paint dries with a 3M gray pad to buff out inconsistencies in the painted surface. According to Chris, one of the other benefits to this paint is that it ages much better than a hard finish.
Ok, thx for sharing.
Wax is fine for interior applications but be cautious with exterior finishes as wax is film-forming and will prevent diffusion from happening.
Thanks for the information concerning linseed oil paint. 👍👍👍👍
You bet!
My pleasure!
Kindly provide if possible
1. Reference regarding wicking quality of linseed oil paint
2. Type of primer recommended. Seems critical.
3. Antimold treatments recommended
4. Recommended sources.
Thanks
All this information is available on the Brouns & CO website.
I remember a childhood cricket bat with instructions to coat in linseed oil.
Makes sense.
I've thought about using Masonry paint, which allows brick to breathe.
Don't paint brick!
I don't like painting brick, but would use a sealer from Prosoco.
Spotbarking the timber and linseed paint equate to 1000 year old buildings in Scandinavia
Never heard of spot barking. What does that do?
@KyleKavanaugh It's a form of tree girdling. A year or two before harvest, they cut strips of bark off the trees with a draw knife or similar. Supposedly, it makes the timber stronger and/or more rot resistant once harvested. Research is limited but does show some positive effects. There's similar folk wisdom about completely girdling trees producing better wood.
Good information 👍
Thx
I'm going to be building historic reproduction windows (I took Steve Quillion's class) and am going to try some of this. I'm curious to see how it goes.
Keep me posted. Thx.
Keep us updated!
Also, quality black china bristle brushes were ubiquitous, now impossible to find.........quality of tooling needs to be discussed as well. What about caulks and putties?
Noted. More to come.
All these things are readely available in several Swedish high quality linseed oilpaints. No need to invent the wheel!
Good to see you have gained a new linseed option. Perhaps someday, some more options will enter Canada. 🤞
Fingers crossed.
Sage Restoration stocks Allbäck linseed paint and is based in Canada!
And Michael Sinclair is very knowledgeable. Offers workshops and everything
We will be up-and-running in Canada in the next 2 months, before the start of the new paint season! With a completely dedicated Canadian website and distribution!
Linseed oil is a breeding ground for mildew. So frequent cleaning with dilute bleach solutions or PSP are necessary in climates that are moist.
That's because of lack op preparation and the use of "too" raw linseed oil, see my answer elsewhere here.
Thanks for sharing.
Linseed oil paint in the past was homegrown and unregulated and had this problem. Today what you say is largely untrue for all commercially available linseed paints. The linseed proteins (which were the main source of food for mildew) are now purified out, and anti-mildew zinc oxide is now added. Both of these things make linseed paint anti-mildew
@@KyleKavanaugh Yes and no...
In contrary to common believe, the proteïns have nothing to do with it, it's all about the uncured (raw) linseed oil.
A lot of manufacturers not only add zinc oxide but also bio-cides and fungicides to their paint, always check their (Material) Safety Datasheet or (M)SDS.
@@KyleKavanaugh Where I live in Connecticut (about 5 miles from the ocean, and in a mature forrest) mildew grows on aluminum gutters, vinyl siding, asphalt roofing, cedar shingles, cedar clapboards, painted trim, metal doors, etc. For years the homes that were stained with linseed oil based penetrating stains, had to be washed at least twice a year to keep the mildew in check. Thanks to the arrival of low VOC products, we have lost access to these penetrating stains. But I can assure you that in this climate, linseed oil products were breeding grounds for mildew. I have lived here for only 25 years, and have yet to find the best finish for my western red cedar, clear vertical grain clapboards. My humble house is 5000 square feet with attached 3 car garage, 35 feet up at the peak of the gable ends. So when it is time to repaint it, it takes a few minutes of work. Believe me, I will pay good money for good stain or paint, since that material cost is small compared to the labor to prepare the surface and apply the paint. My neighbors are spending $30,000 to have their homes painted by "professionals". And who knows what paint those fellas are using. Some of those $30,000 paint jobs last for 3 to 5 years and then you do it all over agin.
I’m a big fan of Rubio Monocoat they just released a very interesting product for exterior. I will check out the linseed paint RUclips channel. Thanks for always providing good content.
Be aware that Rubio uses biocides in their products, so it's not 100% natural.
Noted. Thx.
Lindseed paints are very normal here in finland its weird to see that americans have "forgotten" them 😅 red ochre paint is also very popular here
We can sometimes be slow to get it. Hopefully it will catch on. Thx.
The only two Swedish linseed paints readily available here in the U.S. are Allbäck and Ottosson. Do they have a good reputation over there in Sweden?
@@KyleKavanaugh i have no idea as i live in finland 😂but they seem to be sold here in finland also. Atleast here they are marketed for old house renovations it seems after a quick Google search
@@larrywaveinteresting. And as far as you know Allbäck and Ottosson aren’t commonly sold in Finland?
@@KyleKavanaugh The main countries historically making linseed oil paint were Germany, the Netherlands, UK and the US. Paint production in Sweden was tiny compared to these countries. Sweden kept making them after WW2, but by no means was linseed oil paint Swedish.
A lot of people keep having issues *about mold or mildew* on these type of paints. Here's some advise to avoid it.
The first signs of mold are mostly small black dots...
Those black dots need four things to grow and two of them are controllable:
1. *Uncured linseed oil* -> avoid the use of raw linseed oil (as primer or to dilute the paint) and *use "pre cured oil"* , that's oil that has been sitting in a glass jar and is exposed to (UV) light for about 2 to 6 months. Once and a while you open the cap to let some fresh air in.
2. *Low pH level* (rather acid environment) -> Raise the pH level of the bare wood by *giving it first a lime wash* , leave the lime (chalk) on the wood when dry and paint over it (chalk becomes transparant when oiled).
3. Moisture -> not controllable.
4. Temperature -> not controllable.
I have had very good results with the lime wash on exterior pine wood (outer walls of a shed).
A good source for natural linseed oil, is your local horse shop. Linseed oil is also food for horses. Always buy the one *without* any vitamins or other additives added.
Some companies - like Allback - will advise you to heat the wood above 60°C / 140°F to kill all the mold spores before painting it or even to heat up your paint while applying it. That might help but it's quite cumbersome to apply on large surfaces.
Most commercial companies will add "real" fungicides to their paint to avoid these molds, so always check their (Material) Safety Datasheet or (M)SDS.
thx.
Hi Koenraad, traditionally, good quality, boiled linseed oil was used, which is what we still use now. The best method to prevent mildew is to make sure to check whether the right quantity of zinc white is added when the pigment and oil if milled. You want to make sure you end up with a completely homogenous, smooth mixture (paste), which is the foundation for the paint. Preheating oil to saturate wood is some of the worst advice I've seen out there. Please DO NOT pretreat wood with heated oil! There are two major issues with this: 1) As the oil starts to cool down deep inside the timber, its volume changes, causing it to warp and crack. 2) You are relying on the paint to only adhere to the oil, rathe than getting any pigment into the wood. I have see paint delaminate with this approach.
Great video. Your guest mentions a coat of primer prior to applying the linseed oil paint. I presume that's also a linseed oil primer, not a conventional oil based primer?
Yes, it is.
Brent nice to see you wearing an RM Williams plaited kangaroo belt (& the paint looks great).
haha, thx.
Very interesting and it makes a lot of sense to let the wood breath. Can you post details on the wood prep prior to priming and painting with linseed oil paint. We all know preparation is the key to everything. Do you need to do 100% removal if possible of old paint? Will it bubble if some old latex or oil paint is left behind? Will always have some in cracks, joints etc. Thanks!
Linseed oil paint can only work as well as what it gets painted onto, so to more latex paint you can remove, the better. This will not only last longer, it will also keep wood dry over a long period of time. It can be a bit of a pain to remove all the modern paint, but it's a one-off job as you do not need to sand / scrape linseed oil paint before maintenance.
Since my youth, I learned to dip all my ax handles in boiled linseed oil. Is this basically the same thing but with colorant?
Thx.
Boiled linseed oil dries faster. Generally, the more processed it is (sunning, boiling, leading, etc.) the faster it dries and the darker it becomes.
@@lordofthemound3890 Linseed oil paint is boiled oil with raw earth pigments, so essentially the same thing.
Pretty much. Even though a good quality paint should never be made using colorants but genuine powder pigments!
Brent totally with you except the concrete aspect, I mean the Roman’s concrete is still around today.
Noted. Thx.
Love all your videos. Thank you. Whats the widest you would make a tudor arched front door before it needs to become a double door please?
I don't think there is a good precedent for a pair of doors in the Tudor tradition. THus I'd avoid getting larger than 4'. IMO
I’m curious about using linseed oil stain on my wooden deck. I just finished installing a new floor on my deck using 5/4 pressure treated decking. After the spring rain has a chance to dry, I’ll be interested in preserving my deck surface. Is linseed oil based stain a good choice?
sorry, we are new to it as well. I don't know, but i would reach out to Brouns and Co.
You can try Viking Sales (US) or Sage Restoration (Canada) as well
Make sure to rest your pressure-treated decking with a sample before committing. Unfortunately, the chemicals used in pressure treatments can keep leaching out for years, affecting the working of (any) paint. We have sample pots on our website you can order so you can give it a try first.
What primer did you use? I love the idea of paint that breathes.
Linseed primer. Thx.
Would you use this on inside surfaces like cabinets? Charles
I'd also like to know this answer. I think yes, it's also better for inside wood too.
Yes, but don't use a light color as linseed oil tends to yellow in the dark.
Good question, we are using it only for exterior now. Thx.
From what I gathered, on interior surfaces, the curing time is much longer and needs UV light to speed up the process. And from what I hear, people are using linseed paint especially for wetter areas like bathrooms and kitchens. But it is a great all-natural, plastic-free paint.
Also, it is on the glossy side and matte is only available on lighter color schemes (the matte additive is white). Contacted Viking Sales in Rochester or Sage Restoration in Ontario for questions
On a previously stained solid wood door, is it enough to lightly sand or should I sand all the way through the stain before using linseed oil paint?
Depends a bit on what was used as a stain... was it water based, acrylic, oil,... ?
We got back to the raw wood. Thx.
Linseed paint will stick to exisiting (modern) finishes, but if you want the full benefits of linseed oil paint, it is best to remove exisiting (plastic) paints.
My questions are these: Does this Linseed oil based paint come in different sheens and does one only apply one coat or are two and even three coats better?
I'm not aware that it does, but after time my linseed painted siding has dulled after 2 years where it sees the most sun/ weather. Still more shiny where it doesn't though.
he answered this in the video, one base primer coat then two more coats should do it
We are applying 3 coats because of the way the wood obsorbs the linseed oil. We are using a high sheen. Thx.
It has one sheen only. it starts off with a high gloss, but fairly quickly dulls to a more matte finish linseed paint is so well known for. If you want a higher sheen again when this happens, just wipe it with some boiled linseed oil.
That!
ok
So is the primer also linseed oil based?
Yes, in the video when he was painting white on the wood, I thought the can said linseed primer.
Yes. Thx.
Yes! A good primer is 70% purified raw linseed oil mixed with 30% linseed oil paint!
@@KyleKavanaugh A good primer is 50% paint : 35% raw linseed oil and 15% balsam turpentine mixed well.
What about Dutch Beer? Do we want to keep that out?
Dutch beer?
@@BrentHull Yes, like, for example, Grolsch. I can understand keeping water out, but not something as good as Grosch. And I like those bottles with the lever to flip off the cap.
Can you spray a linseed oil paint? Can it be used on surfaces other than wood?
Yes, but you might need an airless system.
And yes, it can be used on other material like metal, stone, plaster,...
I don't think Brouns sells it that way, but I don't see why you couldn't spray it from a rig.
@ryansoo4000 Mr. Pincen here is correct. I believe hand painting is encouraged, however, since it penetrates deeper into the wood, if I’m not mistaken. Metal, stone, plaster… but also brick as well. Though it seems to work best on wood. I would say for exterior paint, linseed oil paint is the best, though for brick and stone I’ve heard that lime wash paint is perhaps better
We always recommend application with a natural bristle brush as that helps push the paint into the surface. Spraying, by default, lays it on the surface as a film. It is possible to spray but then make sure to brush it in before the polymerisation starts.
Ok, after watching the remainder of the video, the number of coats question was answered.
Thanks for watching!
Can you use linseed paint over other paints?
2/3 of a gallon for $170? Ouch. I’ll have to build a tiny house.
If the linseed oil paint lasts for several decades as opposed to modern paints, it may be worth it, at least for small jobs or maybe trim.
It spreads twice as far as regular paint and thus is about the cost of most high end paints. Thx.
Is it possible to take the doors off, sand them, and refinish them?
Yes. that is what we did.
@@BrentHull Great work they are beautiful!
Thoughts on penofin? How do we treat a product that can be re-treated while maintaining the original colour?
Good question, I'll find out.
Whoa. Is this way to much to have to think about as a consumer? Now our paint is no longer protecting the wood, it's causing it to rot? Holy cow. Appreciate this discussion, but would be great if these issues were resolved with consensus scientific facts and data at an industry level? Gave you a thumbs up/
Discussions are occurring on this front at the scientific level. Michiel Brouns’s book is great for this. The National Park Service has also published scientific studies on linseed oil paint
@@KyleKavanaugh They both seem very credible, but the reality I am now facing is I am now confused about what to use on my boathouse in the spring :)
@@Laguna2013my vote would be Ottosson linseed paint from Viking Sales. Allbäck has the better reputation but Ottosson is a bit more user friendly. No need to mix in the Zinc Oxide. But this is absolutely the best investment to protect your exterior wood
@@KyleKavanaugh So do I understand corrrectly that this protocol would not involve a separate 'primer' ? Thanks!
Noted. Thanks for sharing.
This is a serious marketing push. I'm seeing stories/articles about linseed oil paint in lots of places.
Good. Thx.
Um we call it glazing too. 🤨
Ok. Thx.
What about yellowing? One thing I dislike about traditional oil paint is that it yellows overtime, so your whites start to look like a smoker lived in your house for 40 years.
Linseed absolutely yellows.
It yellows a bit, but only when it doesn't get any light anymore, i.e. dark cellars.
@koenraadprincen7212 no, UV yellow it
@@toomanymarys7355 Not true, check the oil paintings in the art world... when paintings went into storage, the whites yellowed but became white again when exposed to natural light.
A lot of the time, at least on artistic painting, its the clear protective varnish that goes yellow. Unsure if house paint would be similar. Still cool to check out art restoration videos on RUclips
$175. for a quart. That'll really catch on. could probably just make your own.
It spreads further than traditional paint. FYI.
Sage Restoration and Viking Sales have offer lower prices comparable to high end exterior paints. Linseed paint also covers twice as much and lasts much, much longer. Indefinitely.
Let me know once you've done that and what your costs are!
Been using linseed oil paint on our Victorian house (UK) for several years, Would never use anything else for exterior woodwork.
Nice. Thx for sharing.
Nice!
Did you ever experienced any issues with mold or mildew on the painted surfaces?
@@koenraadprincen7212 No, and it is quite damp here at times. It also works fine straight onto oak and cedar for which modern paints aren't suitable. Also painted some new aluminium guttering over 5 years ago and it worked perfectly - although took several days to days to dry.
@@HowardRice Thanks!
Which make of paint do you use? Did the manufacturer add some biocides to the paint?
I used linseed oil paint from allback (sage restoration) when I restored our 1850s windows due to the historic accuracy. Everyone said I was crazy. It was a disaster after 9 months. Even with the zinc I could not get it to stop growing organic mildews, molds, ect. I was so disappointed.
The first signs of mold were probably small black dots...
There are several options to avoid this... those black dots need four things to grow and two of them are controllable:
1. Uncured linseed oil -> avoid the use of raw linseed oil (as primer or to dilute the paint) and use "pre cured oil", that's oil that has been sitting in a glass jar and exposed to light for about 6 months. Once and a while you open the cap to let some fresh air in.
2. Low pH level (rather acid environment) -> Raise the pH level of the bare wood by giving it first a lime wash, leave the lime (chalk) on the wood when dry and paint over it (chalk becomes transparant when oiled).
3. Moisture -> not controllable.
4. Temperature -> not controllable.
I have had very good results with the lime wash on exterior pine wood (outer walls of a shed).
Some companies - like Allback - will advise you to heat the wood above 60°C / 140°F to kill all the mold spores before painting it or even to heat up your paint while applying it.
But most commercial companies will add "real" fungicides to their paint to avoid these molds.
Thx for sharing. From my research the ingredients have to be top notch.
This sounds like the exception not the norm
I have heard Ottosson may be more mold resistant than Allback. I already have Allback, so that is what I will have to use.
@@debluetailfly The manufacturer has nothing to do with it.
The longer the oil remains uncured, the more chances for mold grow. That's why I avoid raw linseed oil and advise to use "pre cured oil" in the first layer (primer) or if you want to dilute the paint.
Linseed oil needs UV-light (and oxygen) to cure... so paint on sunny days.
When painting wood, there is no need for the paint to penetrate deep, 1/10th of an inch is more than enough.
The deeper the oil penetrates to more difficult the curing process (less access to UV light and oxygen). Curing oil expands, making it more difficult for the underlaying oil to cure.
But the lime wash is the most effective in my eyes.
Linseed oil is organic and can be a medium for black mould to develop.
That's because of lack op preparation and the use of "too" raw linseed oil, see my answer elsewhere here.
Better linseed oil is required. A reputable supplier is necessary.
Linseed oil now goes through an extensive purification process and mixed with anti-fungal zinc oxide additive. Ottoson and Allbäck are great manufacturers
@@KyleKavanaugh Is there a reason why you are pushing Ottosson and Allback so heavily? Both have had major issues!
Lindsey paint
Making these paints is ez btw. Also a lot cheaper
Noted. THx.
And far more environmentally friendly and less polluting!
The answer to your question, Brent - products reintroduced from the past that make structures last longer are not used because they cost twice as much. With how quickly and thoughtlessly people replace items for something "new", who wants to invest in making something last longer than they will live to enjoy it?
True! Thanks so much.
Is it PFAS paint?
Tell us you didn't listen at all without telling us.
@@ThePolypam Watched the whole thing and listened carefully. I still have the same question about PFAS. Many paints contain PFAS. It is a valid question.
I'll find out. I don't believe so.
Our linseed oil paint does not contain PFAS, phthalates, VOCs or other nasties.
Isn’t the downside of linseed oil is that it’s highly flammable?
Great question, I hope they answer you.
Yes, you need to be careful with the cleaning rags when these contain fresh paint, you need to dispose them in a closed metal bucket or dimple them in water.
Not in my experience.
Never leave rags soaked in linseed oil laying around; they are very prone to spontaneous combustion. But when you are using a brush and stretching the paint onto the surface, there is no problem with spontaneous combustion. Some who have worked with faux finishes use linseed oil glazes and use a lot of rags. I have known of some dumpster fires where they threw their rags. You can hang rags on a wire and let them totally dry out, and then throw them away. I have personally had a rag begin smoldering after going on a half hour lunch break. I threw it outside real quick. But again not a problem painting a house with linseed oil paint.
@debluetailfly thank you for writing this!
All this time and I assumed you were always using it.
Ha, am now.
Gore-tex? More like Door-tex.