@@BadKarma714 Check out DSLR Video Shooter. Caleb makes great guides on individual cameras, and they are pretty cheap as well. Worth the price if you ask me, you'll learn everything that there is to know about the G7.
Remember kids, it sounds better if you talk INTO the microphone. 🤣🤷♂️ The automated noise reduction in Resolve seemed to hate it when I was off-axis--it made for a very muffled sound. But it only showed up on export and only for the first couple seconds of the clip. It sounded normal during playback. I wish there was a way to "apply" the effect like you can in Audition and most DAWs. Also, thumbs up if you stayed to hear the surprise at 19:47. 🤣👍
Lool again you basically nailed the Beta testing of DR by accident! xD 18 videos later, maybe their soft will end up being perfect, once you'll have missed the color grading after hitting the ND filter with your arm, & once you'll have sneezed while holding the tripod, & we'll discover some new quirks of DR Digital IS ... :D can't wait ^^ → DR brand new *Sneeze Shot Stabilization*
How the hell do you know ALL THIS SHIT? Well thanx bro for explaining all this to a dummy like me and making me understand the physics behind it all :)
Freaking weird dude. JUST ordered the Bmpcc 4k last week with the viltrox ef-m2 II....and it will be paired with my already owned Sigma 18-35....then you release a video about that exact set up. What is life 😂
THANK you. i have all 3 in my cart between amazon and ebay and i'm anxiously trying to figure out wtf speedbooster of the 1 million in existence to use for the sigma 18-35mm and my BMPCC4K!!! I NEED TO SEE THIS SET UP )also if anyone can use them on the DJI RONIN S and how it handles all the weight! and i'll be set!
@@LinusKnight Replying to all a bit delayed, no the one-touch AF did not work for me. I ended up getting the follow focus unit for the ronin. Ive had no problems balancing the bmpcc+viltrox+sigma in its cage with the follow focus unit. The ronin-s is a beast, though you might need a cheese plate to offset the balance without a cage. Make Art Now has a video on that.
Genuinely wouldn't be surprised if Wizard Gerald's next video was 'how I made my last video on my own and made it look like someone was holding the camera' 😂
I've been using Viltrox EF-M2 mark 1 with Sigma 18-35 and 50 for a year now and do not understand the hate! The softness is kind of like a built-in "pro mist filter", haha.. Viltrox is a great product for a dirt cheap price. Sadly after purchasing Meike Cine lenses 16 and 25, the Sigmas seem so ancient... there is no competition when it comes to handling the lens, Meike wins hands down. Also love how compact the Meike is compared to 18-35 with a speedbooster. Oh, yeah, if you want a good adapter without speedboosting or image quality loss, go with the Viltrox EF-M1 (adapted), works great!
It's ironic how the only people that really care about ultra sharpness and clarity are reviewers. 99% of real world photographers and videographers use mist filters/diffusers, ND filters, post production softening techniques to emulate older technology that all affect the image to a great degree because that's what people actually gravitate towards and what is more appealing to the eye. One look at any social media site and the look that people want isn't necessarily the sharpest possible image. Unless it's sports or animal documentaries, sharpness is absolutely important but shouldn't be the top priority for most people looking for new gear; when, much like in this case it's literally splitting hairs.
The main difference between Viltrox and Metabones is the flare and keeping contrast at full aperture even if the light source is not in the frame, direct to the camera. The difference in performances there (flare side) is huge. It's something you should include into the comparison because lots of people would regret buying the Viltrox when they discover that.
Thanks for sharing this. I have had the same experience. When backlighting a subject (for instance at sunset) washes out the image and essentially flares the entire image loosing some sharpness but mostly destroys the contrast. Tested without the Viltrox efm2 mkii with my Sigma 18-35 and the flare went away. It's almost now worth it to me to shoot with a straight adapter now or upgrade to metabones.
@@NolanGunn What if you put black tape around the connection so the light doesn't leak in? I know it's not a professional solution, but considering Viltrox's price this shouldn't be a reason to pay 4 times more for the Metabones.
I find myself always wanting to rent instead of buying cameras these days, albeit I will be buying a small camera to replace my old unit that I keep around.
I use the Viltrox EF-M2 II on my Pocket 4K and have had nothing but pleasant experiences with it. When I'm wide open with my Rokinons, it does look very soft, but if stopped down to 2, the sharpness comes right back. I'm glad I didn't spend all that extra money on the Metabones, personally. Thank you for comparing these, as it proves you can finally buy an affordable AND high quality focal reducer.
Is that lens normally soft or does it only get soft on the speedbooster? If so then what's the point of getting the extra stop of light if you can't even use it?
Is anybody faced blurred image problem when using Viltrox and Rokinon? I changed 2 wide angle lenses because of this problem and still didn’t get rid off!
I’m using the viltrox .71x adapter on my BMPCC4k and I never had an issue with it being really tight on the lens and it being a little loose on the BMPCC4k. Mine fit perfectly!
TIPS FOR 1st GEN VILTROX: After some surgery I just managed to adjust my Viltrox EF-M2 (first gen) to get my Sigma DC 17-50 parfocal. The problem I encountered was that I couldn't turn the speedboster lens enough to arrive at the parfocal point. So I screwed off and removed the lens and saw some heat-glue protruding on the inside of the circular pcb-board wich I removed with a bent surgury knife. After that I could screw the lens about one turn more then before and that was enough to hit the spot of parfocalness! Hope this helps someone else as well!
Hello Gerald That's insane. My Setup: Bmpcc4k, Metabones and Sigma 18-35 I use my bmpcc4 the Edelkrone Headplus and the Focus Module. Depending on the focal length, the focus was not right. I would never have come up with the idea to adjust this on my Metabone. Now it works perfectly. Thank you!
Gerald I’ve been here since your 6K subscriber days. So happy for your success. Your videos are an immense treasure trove of information for the community.
For those wondering…. Focus like once. I find on a far away object like a chain link fence though a focus card like his works better…. Then zoom out wide.. no tin focus? Rarely is.. and start adjusting rear rear optic…. (Back focus) is the term. Then zoom back in…. Looks good? Zoom back out…. Final adjustment.. then for laughs check mid distance. When I used broadcast cameras I would do it every week…. Temperature changes metal swelling in multiple pieces of different types and sizes of metal. That’s why broadcast has a thumb screw and a full sized ring (think of a 2nd aperture ring at the back of a broadcast lens). Backfocus becomes easy and quick.
One huge thing that I've run into is the flare when indoors backlit daylight through a window. I would say it is still somewhat sharp on my 18-35, but the biggest issue is loss of contrast and accurate color. It washes out the image considerably. Also at sunset when I'm filming couples portraits I get the same effect if the sun is in the frame. If you don't have a direct backlit light source the viltrox Ef-m2ii performs very well, but the second you backlight you lose enough quality where I would consider upgrading to metabones. Great comparison Gerald! I've always loved your videos! Edit - I've tested this with and without the Viltrox and the difference is very noticeable!
What if you put black tape around the connection so the light doesn't leak in? I know it's not a professional solution, but considering Viltrox's price this shouldn't be a reason to pay 4 times more for the Metabones
:) I love Viltrox speedboosters. Good to see they're getting better and closing that Metabones gap. I just hope they don't price creep. Appreciate the tests. Thanks Gerald.
@@aeroxtreme15 There are a couple of videos comparing different speedboosters. You can see that the Viltrox is wider than Metabones, Pixco, Zhingyi Turbo (or whatever it's called) etc. In one of the videos, the reviewer says explicitly that the Viltrox is 0.68x...so I assume he has measured it somehow. I'm fairly confident prime lenses were used in the videos, so there's no chance it was a mistake
@@Albanez39 I see, thanks for info. I'm planning to but this speed booster when I get the Panasonic G9 in January. I'm still confused on finding the the right equation for using crop sensor lenses for mft. I know when using ff lenses you times it to 1.9 or 2 then times it again with the focal reducer. How about using crop lenses.
@@aeroxtreme15 Okay, so...Lenses are always advertised in 35mm/FF focal length standard. That's why the classic zoom lens for FF is 24-70mm, while the Micro4/3 lens is 12-35mm. You always have to calculate the actual focal length yourself. If you used the 12-35mm lens on a FF camera, that would be the actual focal length, but on the Panasonic G9, the actual FL of that lens will be 24-70mm. So, if you compared a photo taken with a Canon FF camera on a 24mm focal length, with a photo taken with the G9 on a 12mm focal length, it would be the same... For every lens you'll have, be it a native Panasonic lens, or a Canon EF lens, or a vintage Russian lens, you'll have to multiply it's Focal Length by 2 to know the actual FL you're shooting on. This is for Panasonic Micro4/3 cameras; If you're using a Sony a6500 or a Canon 7D, you'll be dealing with an APS sensor, which is between 1.4 to 1.6 times (depending on brand) smaller than FF. Crop sensor lenses are built the same way as FF lenses, they just have lower diameter glass since they have a smaller sensor to cover. That's one reason why you can't adapt crop lenses on an FF camera, but you can adapt FF lenses on a crop camera. The other reason is Focal Flange Distance (FFD), which is often shorter on crop sensors and mirrorless cameras. This is the distance between the sensor/film and the rear element of the lens. Since Canon EF has a longer FFD than Micro4/3, you can adapt EF lenses on a Panasonic G9...but you can't do the opposite. FFD has nothing to do with sensor and lens dimension, it's just that newer mirrorless cameras have chosen to use a shorter FFD to allow you to use older lenses. e.g. You can't adapt Canon, M42, M39, OM lenses on a Nikon F camera, because Nikon F has one of the largest FFDs. But you can adapt all of the lenses I mentioned on a Panasonic G9. If you mount a smaller FFD lens on a bigger FFD camera, the rear element might end up touching the sensor and damaging it. This is something to be careful about! As long as the lens you want to adapt has a Larger/Longer FDD and was made for a Bigger sensor than your Panasonic G9, you can adapt it! Just make sure to find the right adapter, and that its quality is good enough. Most adapters will account for FFD and they'll have a specific length/depth to allow you to reach infinity focus...but some of the cheaper ones have an incorrect length/depth and you won't be able to focus to infinity. Good adapters (no element or electrical contacts) cost between $5 and $25. If they cost more, they have some additional feature (macro extension, electric contacts, shift capabilities, built in ND filters etc.) or are simply overpriced. Speedboosters are basically adapters which contain an element inside. This element takes the light rays coming through the lens, and concentrates them on the sensor. Since the lens is made for a bigger sensor, some of the light going through the lens would end up outside the sensor if a cheap adapter were to be used. With a speedbooster you gain more light and the focal length gets reduced a bit. I personally recommend the Viltrox. It's AS GOOD AS the overpriced Metabones speedboosters, while being more efficient (x0.68 instead of x0.71) and having a tighter fit. Metabones is often loose on the camera from what I read... As for the lenses, you'll save a great deal of money if you already own SLR lenses (Canon, Nikon, etc.)...you won't need to buy expensive Micro4/3 glass...but I suggest you get the Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 if you'll be using your camera for video. You'll get Dual Stabilization (body and lens) and you'll have a great little lens for the streets, while traveling and so on; Micro4/3 lenses are incredibly small compared to those massive FF lenses, perhaps that's why they cost a lot. Probably the best tip I'll be giving you today: Find and buy vintage lenses!!! The Soviet M42 and M39 lenses are incredibly unique, mainly because of their swirly bokeh and creamy look. Japanese and German lenses are incredibly sharp, and you'll be baffled to find out that you can buy a great Canon FD prime for $30, while a modern Panasonic prime will cost you hundreds or thousands of Dollars/Euros. Check antique shops, garage sales, open air bazaars and what not. If you live in the US or a big European country, you'll find lots of vintage lenses in such places, and they're usually sold by people that have no idea of their value. If you're like me and don't have a lot of access to such lenses, ebay might be a great solutions. They are a bit more expensive online, but they're worth it if you can afford them. My end goal in regards to lenses is to own as many different Helios, Industar, Mir, Vega (Soviet) lenses, while also owning a complete set of Canon FD or Carl Zeiss primes for shooting video. Plus the Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 for the stabilization, accurate colour rendition and other features that only modern (and native) lenses have.
Dude, thanks, really interesting. I am a newb. I just got the 2013 bmpcc 4k. I am strongly considering going with the viltrox after watching this. Thanks again, great presentation! Good luck
I had the Metabones originally on my GH5 and tried out the Viltrox MKI and agreed the quality difference wasnt worth the swap. But I tried the new MKII with the newest firmware and swapped to viltrox a week later. The auto focus didnt bother me since I don't do VLOGS or anything along that line. But I honestly dont notice a difference in my workflow or video quality since swapping. I only notice the extra $300 i got back.
@@imiy Sensor image stabilization works with any lens, but you won't have Dual IS since you are not using native Panasonic lenses. Panasonic's internal stabilization is better than in every other DSLM, but you won't get that impeccable stabilization the GH5 is known for. IBIS is so good just because the sensor and lens work together.
@@imiy Not very familiar with the Blackmagic 4K. Are you talking about Electronic IS inside the camera, or lens stabilization (Vibration Control etc.)? EIS should work if the Blackmagic has that feature. As for lens stabilization I have no idea...it should work as long as the speedbooster has electrical contacts. I have never been satisfied with Vibration Control in EF lenses though...seems like placebo more than actual stabilization.
I am fine with my Viltrox MII I only use Manual focus lenses. I did notice that had to turn my inner glass on the Viltrox all the way to get infinity focus which you will not get with your parafocal test. You should have done a infinity focus on all of them. Mine was not getting even close to infinity until I turned it all the way.. thanks!
@@geraldundone Weird, I thought I saw that they said it would work. Maybe I got it confused with the regular MFT adapter. haha btw loved the go fuck yourself San Diego at the end btw... XD Your videos are getting better and better.
When I tested Metabones and Viltrox with my BMPCC 4k, it wasn't even a question of how superior Metabones was. It retained full sharpness wide open to max aperture and it remained scary sharp while the Viltrox struggled faster than f/2.5. I also noticed some flaring with the Viltrox due to the lower quality optics. The durability and electronic responsiveness when adjusting settings was also more reliable on the Metabones. There was a clear winner to me but still, the Viltrox is so affordable it's worth starting out there.
Hi, which metabones version ar you talking about? is it the one exclusive to BMPCC 4k or the one for all MFT cameras? I'm debating whether I should get the "generic" one(about $400 on eBay) or the specifically designed one($600+) for my BMPCC 4k. Thank you in advance!
I see the latest price for the BMPCC 6k is at $1995.00 - does that make for a better purchase, being that with this BMPCC 4k($1300.00) - Adding the metabones ($695.00) $1900.00 - Doesnt it make sense to purchase the 6k - being that it is a "EF" mount?
Once again...another fantastic video from you! I have 3 of the Viltrox models, (1) ver.-1 and (2) ver.-2's. Using them on 2 BMPK4K's and a GH5S. You're right about getting parfocal for the entire range. I always thought it was the lenses and not the back focus adjustments. After testing, one ver. 2 was dead on from the start but I had to adjust the others. Now the Sigma 18-35, 50-100 and Canon 70-200 2.8 mk2 all stay in focus through the entire range. Keep up the good, thorough, exhaustive, comprehensive...etc work! LOL. BTW, Ver.-1 is not nearly as bad as people claim.
I don't have a MFT Camera. I don't use any adapters of any kind. I still watched the whole video. You're just incredibly thorough and I love the content. ✌️
Having used both the Metabones wins by a mile. Let me break it down. Yes, the Viltrox is cheaper... but, you can get a used Metabones, and there, the difference, gets much smaller. The Viltrox flares like crazy. I'm not talking about nice flares that add to your images. I'm talking about a solid wash over the image that makes you do lighting acrobatics to get them off. Not with the Metabones. Not at all. Also, the Metabones seem to add quality to your glass. I myself use Nikon lenses (all manual) and the quality I get out of the AIS lenses is insane. I switch to a Nikon camera and they are not as sharp. Third. The Viltrox washes your colors a bit. Don't ask me why or how, these are things I noticed after two years of working with both adapters. You hit it right on the money about the wiggling on the Viltrox. THIS WILL AFFECT YOUR FOCUS. BIG TIME. I pair the camera with a Nikon 80-200 f2.8. At 200mm getting focus is mind-boggling horrible. The Viltrox washes your image and it becomes harder and harder to find a sweet spot. I have gone back and forth between both of them and yes, the Metabones wins by a lot. Better quality. Better glass. Far more reliable and... always looks better. Now, are you on a budget and you can't afford one? The VIltorx will do the job... but beware, the ballet for quality is going to be present at all times. You can work around the quirks... but the quirks will be there. Can you add them to your style of shooting? Sure... but be aware that matching with other cameras will be a challenge. Thanks for this review. M.
Gerald, this is an important question. Please tell me that you have some kind of a script when you’re doing this amazing information download to us viewers. Because if you don’t, it’s clear that you are actually a sentient being from another universe, that clearly is purple.
I just picked up the Pixco speed booster, 2 days ago. Just $89 US on Amazon. I picked up the FD > MFT converter for classic Canon FD glass, which are all manual, and mine are primes. So the electronics are not an issue to me, only the glass and the mount quality. And while I haven't done pixel peeping just yet, the images immediately look sharper and brighter. My Canon FD 50/1.4 was already tack sharp and now is a tack sharp 35 mm/1.0. My 28/2.8 FD was only okay before. But now seems to be a much more crisp 20 mm/2.0. And the mounting both camera and lens side seem to be pretty much spot-on. So over all great value and highly recommended.
Thanks man! Your BlackMagic videos have really helped me out. This is a huge purchase for me but I have been taking your advice. The camera should be in next month, can't wait to show you all what I am building~!
I have both a BMPCC4k and a BM Studio 4k PRO... will the Viltrox EF-M2 II work for both? And what about the BMPCC4k specific Metabones as well? Or will I need the regular MFT versions for the Studio 4k Pro?
I’m thinking of getting the VILTROX EF-M2II Autofocus Lens Adapter 0.71x Focal Reducer Booster Adapter for Canon EF Mount Lens to M43 Camera - for my Blackmagic but can’t see if it a fits - ha! Any suggestions?
I know this video is over a year old, but I have the burning question. Why don't manufacturers (e.g. Canon, or anyone) make a 0.625 focal reducer to precisely reverse the crop of their full frame EF lenses for use on their APSC sensor EF-M cameras? For 1.5 factor cameras, the reverse reducer should be 0.66 (not 0.71). For 2.0 factor cameras, the reverse reducer should be 0.50 (not 0.71). I realize the 0.71 reducer glass could work on a wider variety of smaller sensor sizes, but so could 0.66. Why not use the right size? Why aren't these ratios of focal reducers being made? Canon could manufacture a top quality version and extend the life of their EF lenses as well as enhance the utility of their EF-M cameras. Anyway, I hope I asked this in a clear way. Look forward to your insight. Thanks!
@Gerald Undone I would love to see an episode talking about and comparing Canon EF-S glass on the 0.71x speedboosters. I know everyone uses the Sigma 18-35mm, but for example, I've heard good things about the Canon 17-55mm which would get you to f/2 with lens stabilization. But my understanding is also that you also have to remove some stuff off of the back of the lens to make EF-S lenses work... Anyway, it seems like there's maybe enough there to do a short episode about!
Which speed booster would you recommend for the pk4k Gerald ? I have the xl 0.64x but it’s the mft to ef and not the bmpcc4k one I get a weird hazy look when I have the lens fully opened up ? Not super sharp and I had the Viltrox before and it was crazy hazy like Un useable
i see where the new metabones excel but still doesnt justify the price difference! i gone with the viltrox. thanks for these videos. and fuck your intro, this tune plays in my head the whole day :D:D TAM DAM TARADADAMMM
Quick question! The play you get with the viltrox, will that be an issue during manual focus? Will you see a bit of jostle when you’re turning the focus ring? Great video, and very honest.
woah that ending caught me off guard man, almost got a heart attack also really considering to get one of those Viltrox speedboosters now, primarily for adapting vintage glass to EF, then to MFT like my Meyer-optik Primotar or Zeiss QBM Planar
You mentioned that there is slight give between the Viltrox and the BM mount. Do you think adding a paperthin mount shim to make it snug would help fix that 5% difference in image?
im here trying to solve this aperture control issue on the p4k. I have the commlite speedbooster and its very unreliable with lens control. Wondering if the viltrox mk2 has this issue as well?
Thank you. Metabones/Viltrox.. I would pay $100 more a rear focus screw (worm screw probably with set screw) like a broadcast lens. I have the original Viltrox and it’s 95% as sharp as to my eye or better vs the Metabones I tried.. I got my Viltrox for $99? And Metabones was $699? Anyway have you tried newer 0.64x? Wanting to get my vintage lenses (full frame) and recreations (Lensbaby and Lomography) to fully illuminate the sensor on my BMPCC4K. But yes.. anyone interested... if you are unsure what to buy? Buy the Viltrox for $100. Then decide if you want to return it and trade up for more money. For my uses for the times i rarely use it on my super 35 (with MFT sensor) 1.5 crop with 0.71 booster on sensor equals full frame.....is only for vintage lenses, but on my BMPCC4K MFT sensor 1.9 or 2.0x crop with 0.71 it’s well not full frame. The newer Metabones 0.64x would get me closer to I think 1.24 crop? Which would get me a long ways toward edge to edge with a Lomography Degaurotype Achromatic for instance or Lensbaby Twist or even Helios lens (swirly background).
So your optimized booster is still the 0.71x. ?? I have the Viltrox 0.71x and it’s fine.. though I see some degradation…. Now I’m actually looking into the 0.64x Metabones BMPCC4K optimized one.
hello all, i have a BMPCC4K but i don't have this autofocus function, the camera is able to focus by pressing the focus button but not to do an autofocus or follow focus from what i know. and we see Gerald undone at 10:38 holding a camera but it's not a BMPCC4K... while the matabones BMPCC4K adaptor ring only fits on this camera it seems to me, I must have missed something, can someone please enlighten me... ? thank you !
You mentioned that the difference between the boosters might show up more when the lens is a wider focal length and opened at a larger aperture, but when you compared the boosters you did not mention either the focal length or the aperture. I wonder if the lens was set at the most “demanding” setting of wide open aperture and widest focal length?
Do not upgrade its firmware from the Viltrox website! My Viltrox M2 II is now dead and the seller from Hong Kong does not believe me, so I'm stuck with this 200 dollar paperweight.
I need your help, online I found the JYC version of the Viltrox M2 II its 70€ cheaper. Is there any difference betwene the 2 Adapters? The connectors look different on the sensor side…
Something has been annoying me. All the experts say I am wrong, including you. But I am pretty sure I am right. If you don't mind, could you tell me where I go wrong, if I am. A lens has a specific amount of resolving power: sharp lenses have more, blurry lenses have less. All other things being equal, the 'effective' resolution is the result of the interaction between the lens and the sensor. The resolving power would be equal to the sensor resolution only in the seemingly impossible case of a perfect lens. Lenses are not digital but they do have optical resolving power. And I think for this my purpose we can treat them as if they were digital, just as a thought experiment. If we follow that then most of the resolution of normal lenses lies near the center. But there is still resolving power in the edges. While it is true that using a full frame lens on a cropped body will only use the sharpest part of the lens, on the whole you will still lose resolving power vis-a-vis using it on a full frame body. An effect that would be clearest on a sensor with an infinite amount of resolution. Can you imagine a sensor with a truly infinite amount of resolution? When using a speedbooster you are obviously adding glass, and since no glass is perfect, you will lose resolving power versus using it on full frame. But equally, also gain resolving power versus using it without the speedbooster, because you are using more of the lens. Now it remains the question if the speedboosted lens on a cropped body wins out in the end, or if the non-speedboosted lens on a cropped body wins out on sharpness. Because I don't know which effect is stronger. But I am pretty sure that both effects exit and that the matter is not as simple as, “you add glass and so lose sharpness”. That whole idea seems way too simple to me in any case, because high quality and sharper lenses in general have more glass than lower quality ones. While if it were as simple as that, it would be the other way around. When I asked the question in your live stream you said that speedboosters do not add resolving power and that the best way to think about it is as compression. But, at least the compression bit, doesn't go against what I am saying. When you're using a speedbooster you are obviously compressing the image disk. But it also doesn't in anyway deny the existence of the effect I tried to mention. In case you actually managed to read the entire question, that's so awesome, thanks :). I am sorry for bothering you with this question, especially if it turns out I am wrong after all. But it keeps bothering me and I'd like to put it to rest once and for all.
Hi Gerald, my viltrox ef-m2 doesn't show any Iris on Bmpcc4k with any canon ef lenses. I tried with older firmwares such as 6.1, 6.2 etc. including 6.6. Also with older versions of Viltrox starting from 3.3 up to 3.4 (because 3.3 has the fix to control Iris on Bmpcc4k). Still can't control and see Iris. I could imagine that my Viltrox adapter could be dead but it perfectly works with my Gh5. Could you please advise on any suggestions? Many appreciate for your time.
Ummmm...it’s pretty useless to do a side by side comparison where every motion is different on every frame of each of the sides man. Unless it was simply a vanity thing...
Brilliant information. Thank you. Technically the best YT photography reviewer out there by far. I own the Canon M50. Love its compactness etc and was considering a speed booster for adapting ef L lenses in the future for that almost full frame look and the better low light performance of the aperture change. All the best 👍📷
Maybe some real world experiences would help this video. Shooting some leaves, a drill and a measuring tape doesn’t really help out to be honest. Some skin tones, Moore and how well each one handles in different scenarios would have been better. But nonetheless, thanks for the effort put in to recording this video.
I'm just trying to get the Sigma 18-35mm to fit on my BMPCC4K. i can't afford metabones at this time, is the Viltrox EF-M2II okay and do'able? for now?
quick question, I have a sigma art 50mm 1.4 on the .71 speed booster and Pocket 4k...but it's not showing that extra stop of light and still shows my aperture at 1.4 as the lowest. why is that when my sigma art 18-35 can go down to 1.2 from 1.8?
I thought the Viltrox was less sharp at centre but was sharper at the edges compare to the Metabones. How do these compare to having no speed booster? How do they compare to using the same lens with a larger sensor?
I believe the metabones is measured in T* where as the VILTROX may be f* by the sounds of it. That would account for the difference in iris display. Not sure it's to do with just rounding up or down. The T* calculation accounts for actual optical transmission not just the theoretical equation. Not sure if that is helpful to anybody but I believe that's the discrepancy in those read outs.
The Viltrox is surprisingly good for the money, but the Metabones is still better. As I already own Metabones I am very happy, but if I was buying new right now I would find it a very difficult choice to make.
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I love your videos bro I got a lumix G7 cuz you have one same with my 60D can you make a video on what settings you use on the Lumix G7
@@BadKarma714 Check out DSLR Video Shooter. Caleb makes great guides on individual cameras, and they are pretty cheap as well. Worth the price if you ask me, you'll learn everything that there is to know about the G7.
Remember kids, it sounds better if you talk INTO the microphone. 🤣🤷♂️
The automated noise reduction in Resolve seemed to hate it when I was off-axis--it made for a very muffled sound. But it only showed up on export and only for the first couple seconds of the clip. It sounded normal during playback. I wish there was a way to "apply" the effect like you can in Audition and most DAWs. Also, thumbs up if you stayed to hear the surprise at 19:47. 🤣👍
Lool again you basically nailed the Beta testing of DR by accident! xD 18 videos later, maybe their soft will end up being perfect, once you'll have missed the color grading after hitting the ND filter with your arm, & once you'll have sneezed while holding the tripod, & we'll discover some new quirks of DR Digital IS ... :D can't wait ^^ → DR brand new *Sneeze Shot Stabilization*
You stay classy, Gerald Undone
How the hell do you know ALL THIS SHIT?
Well thanx bro for explaining all this to a dummy like me and making me understand the physics behind it all :)
I don't even own a BMPCC4k and I still watched. When I see purple and Gerald, I click.
Freaking weird dude. JUST ordered the Bmpcc 4k last week with the viltrox ef-m2 II....and it will be paired with my already owned Sigma 18-35....then you release a video about that exact set up. What is life 😂
Did the auto focus worked for you? thanks
does it work with cannon lense?
Super keen to hear your experience
THANK you. i have all 3 in my cart between amazon and ebay and i'm anxiously trying to figure out wtf speedbooster of the 1 million in existence to use for the sigma 18-35mm and my BMPCC4K!!! I NEED TO SEE THIS SET UP )also if anyone can use them on the DJI RONIN S and how it handles all the weight! and i'll be set!
@@LinusKnight Replying to all a bit delayed, no the one-touch AF did not work for me. I ended up getting the follow focus unit for the ronin. Ive had no problems balancing the bmpcc+viltrox+sigma in its cage with the follow focus unit. The ronin-s is a beast, though you might need a cheese plate to offset the balance without a cage. Make Art Now has a video on that.
“I’m Gerald Undone and I only wanted to see you laughing in the purple rain”
Seems like the viltrox+cropping and a little post sharpening would save some money and still be a good combo! Great video Gerald👌🏽👌🏽
Genuinely wouldn't be surprised if Wizard Gerald's next video was 'how I made my last video on my own and made it look like someone was holding the camera' 😂
I've been using Viltrox EF-M2 mark 1 with Sigma 18-35 and 50 for a year now and do not understand the hate! The softness is kind of like a built-in "pro mist filter", haha.. Viltrox is a great product for a dirt cheap price. Sadly after purchasing Meike Cine lenses 16 and 25, the Sigmas seem so ancient... there is no competition when it comes to handling the lens, Meike wins hands down. Also love how compact the Meike is compared to 18-35 with a speedbooster. Oh, yeah, if you want a good adapter without speedboosting or image quality loss, go with the Viltrox EF-M1 (adapted), works great!
It's ironic how the only people that really care about ultra sharpness and clarity are reviewers. 99% of real world photographers and videographers use mist filters/diffusers, ND filters, post production softening techniques to emulate older technology that all affect the image to a great degree because that's what people actually gravitate towards and what is more appealing to the eye. One look at any social media site and the look that people want isn't necessarily the sharpest possible image. Unless it's sports or animal documentaries, sharpness is absolutely important but shouldn't be the top priority for most people looking for new gear; when, much like in this case it's literally splitting hairs.
I will just get the Viltrox, and the other 400 dollars spends on used sigma 18-35mm
Good to see you venturing outside, hope it wasn't too scary :) As to the content, very good and highly informative so thanks for that.
A rare day when Gerald's wife (I presume) has nothing going on and helps him film.
The main difference between Viltrox and Metabones is the flare and keeping contrast at full aperture even if the light source is not in the frame, direct to the camera.
The difference in performances there (flare side) is huge. It's something you should include into the comparison because lots of people would regret buying the Viltrox when they discover that.
Even the Mark II viltrox? Does this happen on the Mark II viltrox too?
Thanks for sharing this. I have had the same experience. When backlighting a subject (for instance at sunset) washes out the image and essentially flares the entire image loosing some sharpness but mostly destroys the contrast. Tested without the Viltrox efm2 mkii with my Sigma 18-35 and the flare went away. It's almost now worth it to me to shoot with a straight adapter now or upgrade to metabones.
@@NolanGunn What if you put black tape around the connection so the light doesn't leak in? I know it's not a professional solution, but considering Viltrox's price this shouldn't be a reason to pay 4 times more for the Metabones.
That parafocal hack man... is AWESOME!! I now have a parafocal 18-35 Hurray!!!
I'm so ready for the Magic Lantern Raw vs. Blackmagic Raw video... Lets get UNDONE!!!!
like it's 1999
Thomas Donalek like it’s 2009
I find myself always wanting to rent instead of buying cameras these days, albeit I will be buying a small camera to replace my old unit that I keep around.
Finally an in depth, objective as much as possible and honest review of the speedboosters. Subscribing to this channel.
I use the Viltrox EF-M2 II on my Pocket 4K and have had nothing but pleasant experiences with it. When I'm wide open with my Rokinons, it does look very soft, but if stopped down to 2, the sharpness comes right back. I'm glad I didn't spend all that extra money on the Metabones, personally. Thank you for comparing these, as it proves you can finally buy an affordable AND high quality focal reducer.
Yeah man, same. Although the contact on the Viltrox went out after 6 months. Optical quality is legit tho.
I've heard you are not able to use manual focus lenses on the viltrox, is that accurate for the ef-m2?
@@chiokehart-kelly3481 Not true. I'm using the Rokinon Cine DS lens set with my Viltrox. Works just fine.
Is that lens normally soft or does it only get soft on the speedbooster? If so then what's the point of getting the extra stop of light if you can't even use it?
Is anybody faced blurred image problem when using Viltrox and Rokinon? I changed 2 wide angle lenses because of this problem and still didn’t get rid off!
Next intro : what's happening everybody this is Garled undone and it's time to party!
I’m using the viltrox .71x adapter on my BMPCC4k and I never had an issue with it being really tight on the lens and it being a little loose on the BMPCC4k. Mine fit perfectly!
TIPS FOR 1st GEN VILTROX: After some surgery I just managed to adjust my Viltrox EF-M2 (first gen) to get my Sigma DC 17-50 parfocal. The problem I encountered was that I couldn't turn the speedboster lens enough to arrive at the parfocal point. So I screwed off and removed the lens and saw some heat-glue protruding on the inside of the circular pcb-board wich I removed with a bent surgury knife. After that I could screw the lens about one turn more then before and that was enough to hit the spot of parfocalness! Hope this helps someone else as well!
Hello Gerald
That's insane.
My Setup: Bmpcc4k, Metabones and Sigma 18-35
I use my bmpcc4 the Edelkrone Headplus and the Focus Module. Depending on the focal length, the focus was not right. I would never have come up with the idea to adjust this on my Metabone. Now it works perfectly. Thank you!
Was the autofocus test done on the bmpcc4K? That looks like it's tracking the subject moving forward/back, which I didn't think the pocket could do?
Gerald I’ve been here since your 6K subscriber days. So happy for your success. Your videos are an immense treasure trove of information for the community.
Thanks, Jesse! That means a lot. Appreciate your continued support and viewership. Cheers! 😃🙏💜
@@kezzatube45 Cheers
Tip: When back focusing a lens. Find the minimum focal distance and adjust to that. You won't have to "trial and error" to find perfect parafocal.
Dustin Gillum can you elaborate please? Thank You.
What do you mean?
For those wondering…. Focus like once. I find on a far away object like a chain link fence though a focus card like his works better…. Then zoom out wide.. no tin focus? Rarely is.. and start adjusting rear rear optic…. (Back focus) is the term. Then zoom back in…. Looks good? Zoom back out…. Final adjustment.. then for laughs check mid distance. When I used broadcast cameras I would do it every week…. Temperature changes metal swelling in multiple pieces of different types and sizes of metal. That’s why broadcast has a thumb screw and a full sized ring (think of a 2nd aperture ring at the back of a broadcast lens). Backfocus becomes easy and quick.
One huge thing that I've run into is the flare when indoors backlit daylight through a window. I would say it is still somewhat sharp on my 18-35, but the biggest issue is loss of contrast and accurate color. It washes out the image considerably. Also at sunset when I'm filming couples portraits I get the same effect if the sun is in the frame. If you don't have a direct backlit light source the viltrox Ef-m2ii performs very well, but the second you backlight you lose enough quality where I would consider upgrading to metabones. Great comparison Gerald! I've always loved your videos! Edit - I've tested this with and without the Viltrox and the difference is very noticeable!
What if you put black tape around the connection so the light doesn't leak in? I know it's not a professional solution, but considering Viltrox's price this shouldn't be a reason to pay 4 times more for the Metabones
@@mogyesz225 I'll try it! Have you heard of that being the issue?
:) I love Viltrox speedboosters. Good to see they're getting better and closing that Metabones gap. I just hope they don't price creep.
Appreciate the tests. Thanks Gerald.
The Viltrox EF-M2 is actually an x0.68 reducer.
They market it as x0.71 since it's a more popular reduction ratio.
Really? I thought that viltrox is only 0.71x
Thanks for the info!
@@aeroxtreme15 There are a couple of videos comparing different speedboosters. You can see that the Viltrox is wider than Metabones, Pixco, Zhingyi Turbo (or whatever it's called) etc. In one of the videos, the reviewer says explicitly that the Viltrox is 0.68x...so I assume he has measured it somehow. I'm fairly confident prime lenses were used in the videos, so there's no chance it was a mistake
@@Albanez39 I see, thanks for info. I'm planning to but this speed booster when I get the Panasonic G9 in January. I'm still confused on finding the the right equation for using crop sensor lenses for mft. I know when using ff lenses you times it to 1.9 or 2 then times it again with the focal reducer. How about using crop lenses.
@@aeroxtreme15 Okay, so...Lenses are always advertised in 35mm/FF focal length standard. That's why the classic zoom lens for FF is 24-70mm, while the Micro4/3 lens is 12-35mm. You always have to calculate the actual focal length yourself. If you used the 12-35mm lens on a FF camera, that would be the actual focal length, but on the Panasonic G9, the actual FL of that lens will be 24-70mm.
So, if you compared a photo taken with a Canon FF camera on a 24mm focal length, with a photo taken with the G9 on a 12mm focal length, it would be the same...
For every lens you'll have, be it a native Panasonic lens, or a Canon EF lens, or a vintage Russian lens, you'll have to multiply it's Focal Length by 2 to know the actual FL you're shooting on. This is for Panasonic Micro4/3 cameras; If you're using a Sony a6500 or a Canon 7D, you'll be dealing with an APS sensor, which is between 1.4 to 1.6 times (depending on brand) smaller than FF.
Crop sensor lenses are built the same way as FF lenses, they just have lower diameter glass since they have a smaller sensor to cover. That's one reason why you can't adapt crop lenses on an FF camera, but you can adapt FF lenses on a crop camera. The other reason is Focal Flange Distance (FFD), which is often shorter on crop sensors and mirrorless cameras. This is the distance between the sensor/film and the rear element of the lens. Since Canon EF has a longer FFD than Micro4/3, you can adapt EF lenses on a Panasonic G9...but you can't do the opposite. FFD has nothing to do with sensor and lens dimension, it's just that newer mirrorless cameras have chosen to use a shorter FFD to allow you to use older lenses. e.g. You can't adapt Canon, M42, M39, OM lenses on a Nikon F camera, because Nikon F has one of the largest FFDs. But you can adapt all of the lenses I mentioned on a Panasonic G9.
If you mount a smaller FFD lens on a bigger FFD camera, the rear element might end up touching the sensor and damaging it. This is something to be careful about!
As long as the lens you want to adapt has a Larger/Longer FDD and was made for a Bigger sensor than your Panasonic G9, you can adapt it! Just make sure to find the right adapter, and that its quality is good enough. Most adapters will account for FFD and they'll have a specific length/depth to allow you to reach infinity focus...but some of the cheaper ones have an incorrect length/depth and you won't be able to focus to infinity. Good adapters (no element or electrical contacts) cost between $5 and $25. If they cost more, they have some additional feature (macro extension, electric contacts, shift capabilities, built in ND filters etc.) or are simply overpriced.
Speedboosters are basically adapters which contain an element inside. This element takes the light rays coming through the lens, and concentrates them on the sensor. Since the lens is made for a bigger sensor, some of the light going through the lens would end up outside the sensor if a cheap adapter were to be used. With a speedbooster you gain more light and the focal length gets reduced a bit.
I personally recommend the Viltrox. It's AS GOOD AS the overpriced Metabones speedboosters, while being more efficient (x0.68 instead of x0.71) and having a tighter fit. Metabones is often loose on the camera from what I read...
As for the lenses, you'll save a great deal of money if you already own SLR lenses (Canon, Nikon, etc.)...you won't need to buy expensive Micro4/3 glass...but I suggest you get the Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 if you'll be using your camera for video. You'll get Dual Stabilization (body and lens) and you'll have a great little lens for the streets, while traveling and so on; Micro4/3 lenses are incredibly small compared to those massive FF lenses, perhaps that's why they cost a lot.
Probably the best tip I'll be giving you today: Find and buy vintage lenses!!! The Soviet M42 and M39 lenses are incredibly unique, mainly because of their swirly bokeh and creamy look. Japanese and German lenses are incredibly sharp, and you'll be baffled to find out that you can buy a great Canon FD prime for $30, while a modern Panasonic prime will cost you hundreds or thousands of Dollars/Euros.
Check antique shops, garage sales, open air bazaars and what not. If you live in the US or a big European country, you'll find lots of vintage lenses in such places, and they're usually sold by people that have no idea of their value. If you're like me and don't have a lot of access to such lenses, ebay might be a great solutions. They are a bit more expensive online, but they're worth it if you can afford them.
My end goal in regards to lenses is to own as many different Helios, Industar, Mir, Vega (Soviet) lenses, while also owning a complete set of Canon FD or Carl Zeiss primes for shooting video. Plus the Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 for the stabilization, accurate colour rendition and other features that only modern (and native) lenses have.
But lower is better in this case anyway.
Dude, thanks, really interesting. I am a newb. I just got the 2013 bmpcc 4k. I am strongly considering going with the viltrox after watching this. Thanks again, great presentation! Good luck
12:11 Blackmagic Marker really threw me for a moment haha
I have no idea what he is talking, but I like it!
Very informative video, thank for the comparison and the tip on how to make zoom lenses parfocal!
I had the Metabones originally on my GH5 and tried out the Viltrox MKI and agreed the quality difference wasnt worth the swap. But I tried the new MKII with the newest firmware and swapped to viltrox a week later. The auto focus didnt bother me since I don't do VLOGS or anything along that line. But I honestly dont notice a difference in my workflow or video quality since swapping. I only notice the extra $300 i got back.
What about image stabilization? Will it work with viltrox II?
@@imiy Sensor image stabilization works with any lens, but you won't have Dual IS since you are not using native Panasonic lenses. Panasonic's internal stabilization is better than in every other DSLM, but you won't get that impeccable stabilization the GH5 is known for. IBIS is so good just because the sensor and lens work together.
@@Albanez39 I actually own pocket 4k and being interested in whether the lens stabilization will work when using Metabones or Viltrox adapter.
@@imiy Not very familiar with the Blackmagic 4K. Are you talking about Electronic IS inside the camera, or lens stabilization (Vibration Control etc.)?
EIS should work if the Blackmagic has that feature. As for lens stabilization I have no idea...it should work as long as the speedbooster has electrical contacts. I have never been satisfied with Vibration Control in EF lenses though...seems like placebo more than actual stabilization.
@@imiy IS works with the Pocket 4K and the Viltrox (at least with my Canon 55-250mm)
I am fine with my Viltrox MII I only use Manual focus lenses. I did notice that had to turn my inner glass on the Viltrox all the way to get infinity focus which you will not get with your parafocal test. You should have done a infinity focus on all of them. Mine was not getting even close to infinity until I turned it all the way.. thanks!
And turn it all the way in the opposite way and you will make any lense a macro lense ;)
What about the original one made for the original bmpcc? Have you used that on the BMPCC4k?
I have not, and if I remember correctly Metabones does not recommend it.
@@geraldundone Weird, I thought I saw that they said it would work. Maybe I got it confused with the regular MFT adapter. haha btw loved the go fuck yourself San Diego at the end btw... XD Your videos are getting better and better.
When I tested Metabones and Viltrox with my BMPCC 4k, it wasn't even a question of how superior Metabones was. It retained full sharpness wide open to max aperture and it remained scary sharp while the Viltrox struggled faster than f/2.5. I also noticed some flaring with the Viltrox due to the lower quality optics. The durability and electronic responsiveness when adjusting settings was also more reliable on the Metabones. There was a clear winner to me but still, the Viltrox is so affordable it's worth starting out there.
Hi, which metabones version ar you talking about? is it the one exclusive to BMPCC 4k or the one for all MFT cameras? I'm debating whether I should get the "generic" one(about $400 on eBay) or the specifically designed one($600+) for my BMPCC 4k. Thank you in advance!
So does the viltrox compete with metabones? What exactly is the difference? My budget is low so I’m thinking about buying it.
I see the latest price for the BMPCC 6k is at $1995.00 - does that make for a better purchase, being that with this BMPCC 4k($1300.00) - Adding the metabones ($695.00) $1900.00 - Doesnt it make sense to purchase the 6k - being that it is a "EF" mount?
no 4K Braw on bmpcck 4k
Once again...another fantastic video from you! I have 3 of the Viltrox models, (1) ver.-1 and (2) ver.-2's. Using them on 2 BMPK4K's and a GH5S. You're right about getting parfocal for the entire range. I always thought it was the lenses and not the back focus adjustments. After testing, one ver. 2 was dead on from the start but I had to adjust the others. Now the Sigma 18-35, 50-100 and Canon 70-200 2.8 mk2 all stay in focus through the entire range. Keep up the good, thorough, exhaustive, comprehensive...etc work! LOL. BTW, Ver.-1 is not nearly as bad as people claim.
😂😂😂😂😂 this thumbnail is my freaking favorite 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I don't have a MFT Camera. I don't use any adapters of any kind. I still watched the whole video. You're just incredibly thorough and I love the content. ✌️
Thanks so much! 😃🙏
Having used both the Metabones wins by a mile. Let me break it down. Yes, the Viltrox is cheaper... but, you can get a used Metabones, and there, the difference, gets much smaller. The Viltrox flares like crazy. I'm not talking about nice flares that add to your images. I'm talking about a solid wash over the image that makes you do lighting acrobatics to get them off. Not with the Metabones. Not at all. Also, the Metabones seem to add quality to your glass. I myself use Nikon lenses (all manual) and the quality I get out of the AIS lenses is insane. I switch to a Nikon camera and they are not as sharp. Third. The Viltrox washes your colors a bit. Don't ask me why or how, these are things I noticed after two years of working with both adapters. You hit it right on the money about the wiggling on the Viltrox. THIS WILL AFFECT YOUR FOCUS. BIG TIME. I pair the camera with a Nikon 80-200 f2.8. At 200mm getting focus is mind-boggling horrible. The Viltrox washes your image and it becomes harder and harder to find a sweet spot. I have gone back and forth between both of them and yes, the Metabones wins by a lot. Better quality. Better glass. Far more reliable and... always looks better. Now, are you on a budget and you can't afford one? The VIltorx will do the job... but beware, the ballet for quality is going to be present at all times. You can work around the quirks... but the quirks will be there. Can you add them to your style of shooting? Sure... but be aware that matching with other cameras will be a challenge. Thanks for this review. M.
I see that you are a box collector, Im not alone lol
Gerald, this is an important question. Please tell me that you have some kind of a script when you’re doing this amazing information download to us viewers. Because if you don’t, it’s clear that you are actually a sentient being from another universe, that clearly is purple.
These speed booster tests are great and all but they need a null test of how the image looks without any speed booster.
It’s insane I’ve waited for this review for almost 2 years wow. Thank you!
I just picked up the Pixco speed booster, 2 days ago. Just $89 US on Amazon. I picked up the FD > MFT converter for classic Canon FD glass, which are all manual, and mine are primes. So the electronics are not an issue to me, only the glass and the mount quality. And while I haven't done pixel peeping just yet, the images immediately look sharper and brighter. My Canon FD 50/1.4 was already tack sharp and now is a tack sharp 35 mm/1.0. My 28/2.8 FD was only okay before. But now seems to be a much more crisp 20 mm/2.0. And the mounting both camera and lens side seem to be pretty much spot-on. So over all great value and highly recommended.
The Portraitist Do you have any video with the Pixco speedbooster and Canon Fd lenses with thr bmpcc 4k ?
@@SiloneulaFishingProductions H. No, I use it with a Lumix G85.
Why does Gerald look like an NPC doing a demo when he's doing the autofocus test 😂
When I saw that Thumbnail face in my sub feed I felt blessed. 💙
Gorgeous.
Thanks man! Your BlackMagic videos have really helped me out. This is a huge purchase for me but I have been taking your advice. The camera should be in next month, can't wait to show you all what I am building~!
Nothing says "Amateur" more than auto focus! Be a cameraman and make the decisions yourself.
Anybody have problems with viltrox speed booster and the 18-35 sigma 1.8f. When I’m at 18 mm you can see the barrel of the lens in the 4 corners
I have both a BMPCC4k and a BM Studio 4k PRO... will the Viltrox EF-M2 II work for both? And what about the BMPCC4k specific Metabones as well? Or will I need the regular MFT versions for the Studio 4k Pro?
I’m thinking of getting the VILTROX EF-M2II Autofocus Lens Adapter 0.71x Focal Reducer Booster Adapter for Canon EF Mount Lens to M43 Camera - for my Blackmagic but can’t see if it a fits - ha! Any suggestions?
I know this video is over a year old, but I have the burning question. Why don't manufacturers (e.g. Canon, or anyone) make a 0.625 focal reducer to precisely reverse the crop of their full frame EF lenses for use on their APSC sensor EF-M cameras?
For 1.5 factor cameras, the reverse reducer should be 0.66 (not 0.71).
For 2.0 factor cameras, the reverse reducer should be 0.50 (not 0.71).
I realize the 0.71 reducer glass could work on a wider variety of smaller sensor sizes, but so could 0.66. Why not use the right size?
Why aren't these ratios of focal reducers being made? Canon could manufacture a top quality version and extend the life of their EF lenses as well as enhance the utility of their EF-M cameras.
Anyway, I hope I asked this in a clear way. Look forward to your insight. Thanks!
@Gerald Undone I would love to see an episode talking about and comparing Canon EF-S glass on the 0.71x speedboosters. I know everyone uses the Sigma 18-35mm, but for example, I've heard good things about the Canon 17-55mm which would get you to f/2 with lens stabilization.
But my understanding is also that you also have to remove some stuff off of the back of the lens to make EF-S lenses work... Anyway, it seems like there's maybe enough there to do a short episode about!
Love my G85 and sigma 18-35 combo with viltrox EF-M2. So much value
Which speed booster would you recommend for the pk4k Gerald ? I have the xl 0.64x but it’s the mft to ef and not the bmpcc4k one I get a weird hazy look when I have the lens fully opened up ? Not super sharp and I had the Viltrox before and it was crazy hazy like Un useable
i see where the new metabones excel but still doesnt justify the price difference! i gone with the viltrox. thanks for these videos. and fuck your intro, this tune plays in my head the whole day :D:D TAM DAM TARADADAMMM
I'm just hear to listen to this guy talk
Quick question! The play you get with the viltrox, will that be an issue during manual focus? Will you see a bit of jostle when you’re turning the focus ring?
Great video, and very honest.
woah that ending caught me off guard man, almost got a heart attack
also really considering to get one of those Viltrox speedboosters now, primarily for adapting vintage glass to EF, then to MFT like my Meyer-optik Primotar or Zeiss QBM Planar
Great video except your poor close which spoils the upbeat tone of your video...Please go back to "click the thumbs down button TWICE"
Speedboosters are $600-$750. They're super cool but damn i can't justify spending that much on it.
You mentioned that there is slight give between the Viltrox and the BM mount. Do you think adding a paperthin mount shim to make it snug would help fix that 5% difference in image?
So what firmware version do you recommend using on the BMPCC4k?
im here trying to solve this aperture control issue on the p4k. I have the commlite speedbooster and its very unreliable with lens control. Wondering if the viltrox mk2 has this issue as well?
Impressive accurate and useful. Thx a lot👍
Dude your gonna be hella popular one day all you need now is time.
Thank you. Metabones/Viltrox.. I would pay $100 more a rear focus screw (worm screw probably with set screw) like a broadcast lens. I have the original Viltrox and it’s 95% as sharp as to my eye or better vs the Metabones I tried.. I got my Viltrox for $99? And Metabones was $699? Anyway have you tried newer 0.64x? Wanting to get my vintage lenses (full frame) and recreations (Lensbaby and Lomography) to fully illuminate the sensor on my BMPCC4K. But yes.. anyone interested... if you are unsure what to buy? Buy the Viltrox for $100. Then decide if you want to return it and trade up for more money. For my uses for the times i rarely use it on my super 35 (with MFT sensor) 1.5 crop with 0.71 booster on sensor equals full frame.....is only for vintage lenses, but on my BMPCC4K MFT sensor 1.9 or 2.0x crop with 0.71 it’s well not full frame. The newer Metabones 0.64x would get me closer to I think 1.24 crop? Which would get me a long ways toward edge to edge with a Lomography Degaurotype Achromatic for instance or Lensbaby Twist or even Helios lens (swirly background).
So your optimized booster is still the 0.71x. ?? I have the Viltrox 0.71x and it’s fine.. though I see some degradation…. Now I’m actually looking into the 0.64x Metabones BMPCC4K optimized one.
Can you make a video about why you have 24fps. And 180 shutter. ? What that make to the image?
I bought the Viltrox EF-M2 II and my autofocus doesn't work. I'm using the BMPCC4k and a Canon 24-105mm IS Lens. Anyone have some advise?
I know for the Meta you get a extra stop. For Viltrox, would you also be getting a extra full stop?
hello all, i have a BMPCC4K but i don't have this autofocus function, the camera is able to focus by pressing the focus button but not to do an autofocus or follow focus from what i know. and we see Gerald undone at 10:38 holding a camera but it's not a BMPCC4K... while the matabones BMPCC4K adaptor ring only fits on this camera it seems to me, I must have missed something, can someone please enlighten me... ? thank you !
We're all the tests at the lowest f-stop on the camera? Alot of people test it at low fstops which defeats the point of a speedbooster
Moving outside to get more samples and examples! Amazing work, appreciate your efforts!
You mentioned that the difference between the boosters might show up more when the lens is a wider focal length and opened at a larger aperture, but when you compared the boosters you did not mention either the focal length or the aperture. I wonder if the lens was set at the most “demanding” setting of wide open aperture and widest focal length?
Do not upgrade its firmware from the Viltrox website! My Viltrox M2 II is now dead and the seller from Hong Kong does not believe me, so I'm stuck with this 200 dollar paperweight.
Dude, you should consider teaching. You explain things so clearly and very easy to follow!
Thanks so much, Gabe!
He is teaching! I come to class quite often!
I need your help, online I found the JYC version of the Viltrox M2 II its 70€ cheaper. Is there any difference betwene the 2 Adapters? The connectors look different on the sensor side…
Something has been annoying me. All the experts say I am wrong, including you. But I am
pretty sure I am right. If you don't mind, could you tell me where I go wrong, if I am.
A lens has a specific amount of resolving power: sharp lenses have more, blurry lenses have
less. All other things being equal, the 'effective' resolution is the
result of the interaction between the lens and the sensor. The
resolving power would be equal to the sensor resolution only in the
seemingly impossible case of a perfect lens.
Lenses are not digital but they do have optical resolving power. And I think
for this my purpose we can treat them as if they were digital, just
as a thought experiment. If we follow that then most of the
resolution of normal lenses lies near the center. But there is still
resolving power in the edges. While it is true that using a full
frame lens on a cropped body will only use the sharpest part of the
lens, on the whole you will still lose resolving power vis-a-vis
using it on a full frame body. An effect that would be clearest on a
sensor with an infinite amount of resolution. Can you imagine a
sensor with a truly infinite amount of resolution?
When using a speedbooster you are obviously adding glass, and since no glass is perfect, you
will lose resolving power versus using it on full frame. But equally,
also gain resolving power versus using it without the speedbooster,
because you are using more of the lens. Now it remains the question
if the speedboosted lens on a cropped body wins out in the end, or if
the non-speedboosted lens on a cropped body wins out on sharpness.
Because I don't know which effect is stronger. But I am pretty sure
that both effects exit and that the matter is not as simple as, “you
add glass and so lose sharpness”. That whole idea seems way too
simple to me in any case, because high quality and sharper lenses in
general have more glass than lower quality ones. While if it were as
simple as that, it would be the other way around.
When I asked the question in your live stream you said that speedboosters do not add resolving
power and that the best way to think about it is as compression. But,
at least the compression bit, doesn't go against what I am saying.
When you're using a speedbooster you are obviously compressing the
image disk. But it also doesn't in anyway deny the existence of the
effect I tried to mention.
In case you actually managed to read the entire question, that's so awesome, thanks :). I am sorry for bothering you with this question, especially if it turns out I am wrong after all. But it keeps bothering me and I'd like to put it to rest once and for all.
Does lens stabilazation works with viltrox? please someone to know??!!
Thanks for this comparison! You're the best!
Okey, if I want to buy a speedboster for my bmpcc 4k in 2022, should I go for sony E mount or still buy canon ef?
Hi Gerald, my viltrox ef-m2 doesn't show any Iris on Bmpcc4k with any canon ef lenses. I tried with older firmwares such as 6.1, 6.2 etc. including 6.6. Also with older versions of Viltrox starting from 3.3 up to 3.4 (because 3.3 has the fix to control Iris on Bmpcc4k). Still can't control and see Iris. I could imagine that my Viltrox adapter could be dead but it perfectly works with my Gh5. Could you please advise on any suggestions? Many appreciate for your time.
Ummmm...it’s pretty useless to do a side by side comparison where every motion is different on every frame of each of the sides man. Unless it was simply a vanity thing...
Brilliant information. Thank you. Technically the best YT photography reviewer out there by far. I own the Canon M50. Love its compactness etc and was considering a speed booster for adapting ef L lenses in the future for that almost full frame look and the better low light performance of the aperture change.
All the best 👍📷
Maybe some real world experiences would help this video. Shooting some leaves, a drill and a measuring tape doesn’t really help out to be honest. Some skin tones, Moore and how well each one handles in different scenarios would have been better. But nonetheless, thanks for the effort put in to recording this video.
Where can I find an autofocus version of the viltrox for Nikon speed booster? I have looked everywhere! So sad and bad
I'm imagining the stack of Gerald's helper elves standing on each others' shoulders to match his height.
I'm just trying to get the Sigma 18-35mm to fit on my BMPCC4K. i can't afford metabones at this time, is the Viltrox EF-M2II okay and do'able? for now?
quick question, I have a sigma art 50mm 1.4 on the .71 speed booster and Pocket 4k...but it's not showing that extra stop of light and still shows my aperture at 1.4 as the lowest. why is that when my sigma art 18-35 can go down to 1.2 from 1.8?
I thought the Viltrox was less sharp at centre but was sharper at the edges compare to the Metabones. How do these compare to having no speed booster? How do they compare to using the same lens with a larger sensor?
I believe the metabones is measured in T* where as the VILTROX may be f* by the sounds of it. That would account for the difference in iris display. Not sure it's to do with just rounding up or down. The T* calculation accounts for actual optical transmission not just the theoretical equation. Not sure if that is helpful to anybody but I believe that's the discrepancy in those read outs.
Thank you for this very detailed insight 👍
The Viltrox is surprisingly good for the money, but the Metabones is still better. As I already own Metabones I am very happy, but if I was buying new right now I would find it a very difficult choice to make.
Why are you not french? Technical words are too much difficult to understand for me...
He could have said 90 degrees.
Instead he said three hours on a 12 o'clock scale...
Have you tried out the Metabones XL 0.64x ? I think that one will be more comparable to the EF-M2.